# New Circuit for a Mobile Home



## caseyelectric (Oct 19, 2008)

Does it have any underpinning or is it open? Why not mount a box to underside over hole you drill through bottom plate, run conduit of your choice, pull wire through it. They usually have a 1 inch stubed out the bottom under panel.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

I run my circuits in PVC conduit. I use parallel clamps when running with the frame. Watch out for the hurricane straps under there. They are sharp.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

backstay said:


> I run my circuits in PVC conduit. I use parallel clamps when running with the frame. Watch out for the hurricane straps under there. They are sharp.


You ever just run NM?


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

Why a receptacle and why 240 on a receptacle?

Even better 240V for a a/c window unit?


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

CADPoint said:


> Why a receptacle and why 240 on a receptacle?
> 
> Even better 240V for a a/c window unit?


Well, the receptacle would be to plug the A/C into. The 240V would be required for a 240V A/C.


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Do you have approval from the owner?


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Speedy Petey said:


> Do you have approval from the owner?


I said in my OP that it is one that he rents out....one of his rentals.


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

Another stupid question based on the fact I've never heard of a 240V window unit.

Is this to be like a hotel unit that supplies heat as well as A/C ?


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Little-Lectric said:


> You ever just run NM?


Not under a trailer house. It's no different than any crawl space. My inspectors require min UF, but the mice go thru that fast.


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## azgard (Nov 25, 2011)

CADPoint said:


> Another stupid question based on the fact I've never heard of a 240V window unit.
> 
> Is this to be like a hotel unit that supplies heat as well as A/C ?


240 Unit's are usually 10,000 and up, 14,000 is around the max for a 120 circuit. Also you probably don't see them to often as 240 unit's are usually designed for a permanent wall installation, not a window.


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Little-Lectric said:


> I said in my OP that it is one that he rents out....one of his rentals.


Oh, I thought you were talking about the tenant. Cool beans. :thumbsup:


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

Will you be using a recept. like this?

http://www.onestopbuy.com/productimages/leviton/lev-5461-A.jpg


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

Treat that area as a space where things are subj. to phys. damage. If you go in & out of that belly pan, you should use conduit.

That being said, IMO, the best way to do it is...Below the house panel, cut a clean square so you can see the bottom plate. Cover this square when your done with a plastic snap in access panel you can get at HD.

Drill thru bottom plate, and poke thru belly pan with your fish stick to mark the location. Go under house and slit belly pan.

Go to AC location and decide if you want to come up in the wall or surface with conduit sleeve (some customers don't mind) to recept.

If inside wall at AC, you need to open up the wall a little to see the bottom plate and do your fish'in. If surface, drill thru floor and poke thru belly pan as before.

Run your NM above belly pan and tape up with that mastic tape the mobile guys use.

It sounds like a lot of BS, but you don't want to be assembling conduit under that house. You could use LFNMC, but the same cuts as above would have to be made anyway.:thumbsup:

whew.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

3xdad said:


> Will you be using a recept. like this?
> 
> http://www.onestopbuy.com/productimages/leviton/lev-5461-A.jpg


Should be, he hasn't bought the unit yet, but most I've seen had that type cord cap on it.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

3xdad said:


> Treat that area as a space where things are subj. to phys. damage. If you go in & out of that belly pan, you should use conduit.
> 
> That being said, IMO, the best way to do it is...Below the house panel, cut a clean square so you can see the bottom plate. Cover this square when your done with a plastic snap in access panel you can get at HD.
> 
> ...


He wants it flush mounted with an old work pop-in box. That being said, I would have to use NM as I don't know how you would connect liquid tite to one of those boxes.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

Little-Lectric said:


> You ever just run NM?


No don't think about it as Backstay allready address that point.

I know my inspector in Wisconsin say UF also but I never like too much too much trouble with it due the hurrance or torando straps.

I run with PVC and have a junction box from there and shoot it up with Nonmetalic flexi and use old work metal box ( don't use the plastique unless you have a leigt 1/2" KO in there ).

When ya get done with rough in make sure you get a good qualinty "duck tape " I rather use same one as HVAC contractor have them due they are much stronger and they have more sticky on the tape. and seal up the holes good after ya done with them.

Merci,
Marc


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## I_get_shocked (Apr 6, 2009)

backstay said:


> Not under a trailer house. It's no different than any crawl space. My inspectors require min UF, but the mice go thru that fast.



Ive used Al MC on a few of them. Not sure if that would be classified as a damp location...


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## mrmike (Dec 10, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> He wants it flush mounted with an old work pop-in box. That being said, I would have to use NM as I don't know how you would connect liquid tite to one of those boxes.


IMO, I would use UF wire & use straps to hold it to the metal frame with self tapping screws especially close to where it enters the plastic pan & tape up around your holes..........


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## rrolleston (Mar 6, 2012)

Sometimes you can fish between light fixtures in the ceiling that are just secured with screws and go down the wall instead of messing around on the bottom.


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## sstlouis03 (Jun 23, 2011)

Little-Lectric said:


> He wants it flush mounted with an old work pop-in box. That being said, I would have to use NM as I don't know how you would connect liquid tite to one of those boxes.


 
Just use a metal cut in box with 1/2" KO on it, or a gangable box.


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

Be sure to check the depth of the wall. Depending on the age of the trailer, the wall could be as skinny as 1", or as much as 2-1/2" or more. 

Regarding; damp location? I'd say 'yes' to be on the safe side.

I've worked on trailers that have 1+" holes punched through the frame and its 'wing' side extensions that made it relatively easier to run conduit up inside the bottom cover.


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