# moisture in conduit.



## a-bulb (Feb 13, 2008)

You try to make conduits as water tight as possible but water always finds it's way in. I always try to pitch my pipes away from buildings vaults etc... to keep water out of equipment and plug the ends with duct seal. I've also used these sealing bushings where I could not pitch the pipes enough In certain situationshttp://www.o-zgedney.com/PDF/R1thru24.pdf. They work real well. To keep it short you'll always get some water, just make sure your wire is moisture risistant type NOT ROMEX like I've seen alot of people use.


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## a-bulb (Feb 13, 2008)

sorry http://www.o-zgedney.com/PDF/R1thru24.pdf


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## a-bulb (Feb 13, 2008)

a-bulb said:


> You try to make conduits as water tight as possible but water always finds it's way in. I always try to pitch my pipes away from buildings vaults etc... to keep water out of equipment and plug the ends with duct seal. I've also used these sealing bushings where I could not pitch the pipes enough In certain situationshttp://www.o-zgedney.com/PDF/R1thru24.pdf. They work real well. To keep it short you'll always get some water, just make sure your wire is moisture risistant type NOT ROMEX like I've seen alot of people use.


 I mean resistant. my spelling is bad, but my punctuation is herrendous :smartass:


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## waco (Dec 10, 2007)

I do all I can to protect conduit from water until the wires are pulled and all the joints are glued. I've opened a lot of old conduit runs and found them full of water, but I see no reason why they should be. They ought to be as watertight as waste drains!

Technique I use is to use solvent to clean the pipe and socket, then I put heavy glue on the pipe and just a little on the socket, then push and twist them together and hold them for a few seconds since well glued joints can "kick-back" for a couple of minutes.

I've worked with many guys who don't clean the pipe, socket, or coupling. I think that produces faulty welds because of the mold release used in the manufacture of the PVC.

I think rigid is the only metal conduit that can be made watertight.


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## a-bulb (Feb 13, 2008)

waco said:


> I do all I can to protect conduit from water until the wires are pulled and all the joints are glued. I've opened a lot of old conduit runs and found them full of water, but I see no reason why they should be. They ought to be as watertight as waste drains!
> 
> Technique I use is to use solvent to clean the pipe and socket, then I put heavy glue on the pipe and just a little on the socket, then push and twist them together and hold them for a few seconds since well glued joints can "kick-back" for a couple of minutes.
> 
> ...


 I agree. BUT,have you ever seen the poco seal the risers going up the pole after they pull in there lines. What a joke. I've seen some not even sealed. No matter what you do you will always get some water even just from the condensation.


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## HighWirey (Sep 17, 2007)

k2x said:


> How much do we worry about water getting into conduit, seal tight etc. while we're driving down the road in the rain or when the pipe is laying around the jobsite in the rain? I did work with a guy who ran a tissue down every piece of pipe before he put it together for dirt and moisture but I really haven't seen too much of that lately. Seems like moisture in some pipes would be there for a long time. Living here is a semi arid climate I could see dry pipe staying dry for a long time..
> Thanks again for any responses..


Did a government project to remove and replace an existing water logged fire alarm system, mostly above ground and outdoor. A $750k USD project.

Spec was screw pipe GRC, N4X or better, all connections sealed with plumbers RectorSeal5 compound. Prior to construction I suggested purging the conduit with GN2, which the owner had available in copious quantities. Only a dollar ninety-eight adder to the contract price. "No, do it like the drawing says".

We performed a diligent install, and the owner was a happy camper.

Two years later, the same project was out for bid "to remove and replace an existing water logged fire alarm system".

In the meanwhile men, let the water flow . . .

Work'in For That Free Tee . . .


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## dawgs (Dec 1, 2007)

HighWirey said:


> Did a government project to remove and replace an existing water logged fire alarm system, mostly above ground and outdoor. A $750k USD project.
> 
> Spec was screw pipe GRC, N4X or better, all connections sealed with plumbers RectorSeal5 compound. Prior to construction I suggested purging the conduit with GN2, which the owner had available in copious quantities. Only a dollar ninety-eight adder to the contract price. "No, do it like the drawing says".
> 
> ...


Did you bid it again?


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## HighWirey (Sep 17, 2007)

dawgs said:


> Did you bid it again?


Yes, and was skunked. Probably because I knew too much about the project. You vets have 'been there, done that'.

Work'in For That Free Tee . . .


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## Tiger (Jan 3, 2008)

I used to be concerned about water in conduit, but my feeling now is that if you do all you can to seal it the water will get in but not drain out. Now I don't use any sealant. THWN is rated for wet.

Dave


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

No matter what you do, no matter how hard you try the best you can do is minimize the impact water will have on the distribution equipment, IT WILL MAKE IT INTO THE CONDUIT.




> THWN is rated for wet.


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## HighWirey (Sep 17, 2007)

brian john said:


> No matter what you do, no matter how hard you try the best you can do is minimize the impact water will have on the distribution equipment, IT WILL MAKE IT INTO THE CONDUIT.


Gospel spoken.

Best procedure is to drill a small weep hole in an enclosure bottom, and zinc-it (against rust in steel) What leaks in, flows out. Crude, but effective.

Work'in For That Free Tee . . .


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