# 5/8 Auger bit = no nail plates



## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

I think it'd take more time to swap between the 3/4" and the 5/8" than would be worth even thinking about it this hard.


----------



## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

erics37 said:


> I think it'd take more time to swap between the 3/4" and the 5/8" than would be worth even thinking about it this hard.


...As oppossed to buying nail plates and paying a helper to nail them all over a house?

Anywhere I need something bigger, we would just use a 1" and nail plate it. But were talking a 3035 sq.ft. house....i may be over thinking how to save time and money but its worth it if it works.


----------



## rexowner (Apr 12, 2008)

MHElectric said:


> ... But now I may have my helper drilling studs and he might not be as caring/careful as me...


If he is not caring/careful 1/8" isn't going to make the difference
and you will need nailplates

If he is motivated at all, he can make a jig to measure 1-3/4" from the
edge, and after about a dozen holes realize he doesn't need it any more.
It's not that hard.


----------



## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

Just use the smaller bit if your worried and tell him to drill two holes for each gang.


----------



## thoenew (Jan 17, 2012)

All we use is 1" bits.


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

I run with 7/8" bit all day long.


----------



## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

I don't get it. :huh:
If the wall is framed with 2x4 lumber and you drilled a 1" hole in the center, it still leaves 1-1/4" on both sides of the hole.

Just stay with the 3/4" bit.
Aren't we talking about 300.4(A)(1)?


----------



## rrolleston (Mar 6, 2012)

Would rather have nail plates than find out later some idiot drove a really long drywall screw through a wire.


----------



## open short (Oct 12, 2010)

480sparky said:


> I run with 7/8" bit all day long.


me too.


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

tkb said:


> ......If the wall is framed with 2x4 lumber and you drilled a 1" hole in the center, it still leaves 1-1/4" on both sides of the hole.
> ........


Technically, only if you can drill perfectly perpendicular to the side of the stud. Otherwise, you're drilling at an angle, and you're oh so slightly less than 1¼" from the face.


----------



## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

480sparky said:


> Technically, only if you can drill perfectly perpendicular to the side of the stud. Otherwise, you're drilling at an angle, and you're oh so slightly less than 1¼" from the face.


 There you go 480, this is exactly what Im talking about. Maybe as long as I *stress *the fact that he needs to hit dead center, I can let him run with a bigger bit. But honestly, nobody cares about this as much as I (or you or whoever is the boss) do, so I'm trying to overcompensate for this. I dont think other people are stupid, its just really important to cut down on unnessary material and labor. And once again, nobody will care about this as much as the boss will.


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

I have never seen an inspector break out a micrometer to check this out. Shoot for the center and move on, it ain't rocket surgery.


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> .....it ain't rocket surgery.



It's brain science! :laughing:


----------



## sarness (Sep 14, 2010)

I use 13/16" easy to find if it gets legs.


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

480sparky said:


> It's brain science! :laughing:





http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=rocket surgery


----------



## svh19044 (Jul 1, 2008)

::


BBQ said:


> I have never seen an inspector break out a micrometer to check this out. Shoot for the center and move on, it ain't rocket surgery.


I came to post the same thing. The inspector must be a real ****, or really good at his job to measure every hole that you have. I've personally never encountered an inspector that was that anal over a couple of random holes that happened to be 1" off edge.

Obviously it's your responsibility first to make sure code is met, but this seems like you are putting way too much thought in to something that is rarely an issue. If you feel some holes are obviously too close, throw a nail plate in.


----------



## KRD (Feb 25, 2012)

7/8 nail eater bit. If the holes are nice and level the inspector is not going to look to hard. Around here they mainly check around the windows and corners. You will need nail plates regardless of how careful you are. 

I would rather spend a few seconds to nail up a plate then spend a bunch of time drilling holes.


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=rocket%20surgery



http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=brain+science


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

480sparky said:


>


You are one weird man. :laughing:


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> You are one weird man. :laughing:


That makes two of us. :whistling2:


----------



## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

The 5/8 inch bit will work ok with single cable but I don't use the 5/8 inch very often.

The run of mill drilling out stud typically either 7/8 or 1.25 inch augar bits that is most common one I use them.

But keep couple short one on hand so you can drill it straight you will make it easier to pull the cable in there.

Corner area is tricky all it depending on how they build the corner piece.

Merci,
Marc


----------



## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

a box or two of nail plates can't possibly be a bid breaker, nor can the hour or two to skip on through installing them

they are the cheapest insurance available for an rx job imho

~CS~


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

chicken steve said:


> a box or two of nail plates can't possibly be a bid breaker, nor can the hour or two to skip on through installing them
> 
> they are the cheapest insurance available for an rx job imho
> 
> ~CS~



If it takes you an hour to install a box of nail plates, you're doing it wrong.


----------



## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

I HATE 5/8" bits!! 

More accurately, I hate when other people before me use them. 
3/4" should be minimum.


----------



## Podagrower (Mar 16, 2008)

3/4 or 7/8 for rough, 5/8 is for remodel work (those Irwin speedbore with the 1/4 hex shank in a impact driver makes quick work of a stud).

When I did houses all the time, I aimed for center, and nailplated what I missed. I also made sure that any wall that could be seen from the garage or front door had a nailplate on it somewhere. That way when the inspector walked in, he would see a nailplate on every wall and think "I don't even need to look at that wall"

Never been failed for missing a nailplate, but I had to go back and pull a 3" cabinet screw out of the disposal switch leg.


----------



## oldtimer (Jun 10, 2010)

Podagrower said:


> 3/4 or 7/8 for rough, 5/8 is for remodel work (those Irwin speedbore with the 1/4 hex shank in a impact driver makes quick work of a stud).
> 
> When I did houses all the time, I aimed for center, and nailplated what I missed. I also made sure that any wall that could be seen from the garage or front door had a nailplate on it somewhere. That way when the inspector walked in, he would see a nailplate on every wall and think "I don't even need to look at that wall"
> 
> Never been failed for missing a nailplate, but I had to go back and pull a 3" cabinet screw out of the disposal switch leg.







( had to go back and pull a 3" cabinet screw out of the disposal switch leg.)

Did your A H J have X Ray vision ?  :jester:


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

What kind of drill? Right angle or mud mixer?


----------



## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

My inspectors don't mind if the hole is a little closer to stud edge on one side. They are looking for the wire being further than 1 1/4" from the edge. Right or wrong that's how it is in my neck of the woods. 7/8" is my prefered size also for the most part.


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Podagrower said:


> Never been failed for missing a nailplate, but I had to go back and pull a 3" cabinet screw out of the disposal switch leg.



I put nail plates over practically every hole drilled where cabinets are going, regardless of how centered my holes are. I have been doing that ever since the first time I saw a hillbilly carpenter install cabinets with three inch screws.


----------



## crosport (Apr 4, 2010)

13/16 auger bit is the largest you can use on a 2x4 before you violate the wire being 32 m.m.from the face of the stud rule.


----------



## kbatku (Oct 18, 2011)

7/8 Millwaukee for me. I was a big Lenox fan for years, but then they went with that freak starting tip and lost me. Nailbiter too hard to file - Milwaukee stays sharp for a long time but can be filed when the day comes. 

Paddlebits and a cordless for quite a bit of my remodel (Irwin Speedbore) and even a sharp auger bit for the thicker stuff. I hardly ever drag out the Hole Hawg anymore, except for new construction.


----------



## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

macmikeman said:


> I put nail plates over practically every hole drilled where cabinets are going, regardless of how centered my holes are. I have been doing that ever since the first time I saw a hillbilly carpenter install cabinets with three inch screws.


Ditto. What got me was the plumber using a 3" drywall screw for a 3/8" gas line and he screwed into the romex anchored to the flat edge of a stud.


----------



## electrictim510 (Sep 9, 2008)

This thread makes me miss roping homes. I would let him use a 7/8" bit, but go after him, dont have him do it, and place nail plates. I would tell him afterward how many you used and show him if you had to use too many. It makes the world of a difference letting a guy know how he did or did not do his drilling, as we all know good hole drilling makes a world of a difference in finishing the job quickly and efficiently with the least amount of headaches.

Note to OP: I like your thinking here but as Ive learned in the past, sometimes you have to let the apprentices go and correct as they go. If you prevent too much it leads to headaches later, you are in a sense "dumbing him down" unknowingly.


----------



## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> I put nail plates over practically every hole drilled where cabinets are going, regardless of how centered my holes are. I have been doing that ever since the first time I saw a hillbilly carpenter install cabinets with three inch screws.


Uhh.. he doesnt have to be a hillbilly.... ALL cabinet hangars use 3" screws...


----------



## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

It's been my experience that 5/8" isn't quite large enough for #12 Romex- unless you're pulling the round 12/3.


----------



## Chris1971 (Dec 27, 2010)

Amish Electrician said:


> It's been my experience that 5/8" isn't quite large enough for #12 Romex- unless you're pulling the round 12/3.


Do you use a 3/4" bit in your hand brace?:laughing:


----------



## noarcflash (Sep 14, 2011)

I use nail plates on EVERYTHING. 1-5/8" drywall screw too deep in the sheetrock, you will bit the romex.

My dad was hanging a TV bracket, with 3" screws, back when TV's were 50 lbs, and he bit the romex. I had to cut the wall open to repair the romex.

Don't be cheap to do a good job.


----------



## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

noarcflash said:


> I use nail plates on EVERYTHING. 1-5/8" drywall screw too deep in the sheetrock, you will bit the romex.
> 
> My dad was hanging a TV bracket, with 3" screws, back when TV's were 50 lbs, and he bit the romex. I had to cut the wall open to repair the romex.
> 
> Don't be cheap to do a good job.


Why stop with nail plates?

Don't be cheap, run PVC coated RGS in the studs. That would be better.


----------



## Jim Port (Oct 1, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> I put nail plates over practically every hole drilled where cabinets are going, regardless of how centered my holes are. I have been doing that ever since the first time I saw a hillbilly carpenter install cabinets with three inch screws.


I just run my wires where there will be no screws. Same amount of holes and no nail plates.


----------



## electrictim510 (Sep 9, 2008)

Jim Port said:


> I just run my wires where there will be no screws. Same amount of holes and no nail plates.


h
Is that even possible? I dont think an inspector will let you slide if you tell him "Trust me, bro.. They won't put a screw here, I'm in good with the sheetrock guy :whistling2:." :icon_lol:


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Jim Port said:


> I just run my wires where there will be no screws. Same amount of holes and no nail plates.


Where did you buy your crystal ball?


----------

