# Romex through furring?



## green4now (Jul 29, 2016)

We're having a disagreement on this end about running romex through furring.


There is a stucco wall that is being furred out and will have drywall over it. Furring is 3 inches deep.


Can we drill normal holes and run romex even though the wood furring is only 3 inches deep?


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

As long as it’s 1.25” from the nearest nailing edge. Or drill a hole anywhere and put a nail plate over it. 


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)




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## green4now (Jul 29, 2016)

I don't understand that image at all. 

Are those metal plates only half connected? Like half is hammered in and half is just sort of floating?

What are the plates covering anyway? The romex looks totally exposed.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

In cases like that I use zip ties with screw holes anchored to the block/concrete and run down the middle-ish of the furring "stud bay". I keep the romex more than 1 1/4" from the furring strips as those are the nailable surface. Horizontally I just drill or notch, then notch plate over. If you keep the un-used sides of gangable steel switch boxes they make great notch plates.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

green4now said:


> I don't understand that image at all.
> 
> Are those metal plates only half connected? Like half is hammered in and half is just sort of floating?
> 
> What are the plates covering anyway? The romex looks totally exposed.


The cable only needs to be protected when it is within 1.25" of the framing member. That means the hole has to be 1.25" back OR the cable needs to be off to the side by 1.25".

So if that cable running down the left side is 1.25" from the edge of the furring strip, no protection is needed. 

I assume in that picture they put the nail plates on to protect the cables attached to the side of the furring strip. The cable you see sticking out is attached to the brick wall (which is what I would have done with ALL of the cables as to not make that monstrosity).


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

It was one of MechDVR’s posts from the Gems thread of excessive nail plating.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

tjb said:


>


I hope you didn't willingly do that installation. Hopefully that was a wrong inspector they forced you to do that. You could have just attached the Romex to The brick 1.25" or more into the brick away from the stud with tie wraps, clips, or even scraps of Romex.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

JoeSparky said:


> I hope you didn't willingly do that installation. Hopefully that was a wrong inspector they forced you to do that. You could have just attached the Romex to The brick 1.25" or more into the brick away from the stud with tie wraps, clips, or even scraps of Romex.


Usually its a zig-zag job where the plates are only installed where the rope attaches to the furring strips.


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Wasn’t me. As I wrote above, that’s a pic that another forum user posted in the “make fun of this” thread.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

tjb said:


>


Big waste of nailing strips. Self sticking tie wraps down the center between the furring would have done the trick and met code. No need to waste that steel. 

P.S. EC's should learn to go to sheet metal contractors and get 8 foot sections of 12 gauge steel x 1-1/2" width cut by the 50 count ahead of needed. use like how I do. You would be surprised how fast the pile goes down - I have to re order about every seven to ten years time.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

12 Gauge ? Sheesh!


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## green4now (Jul 29, 2016)

tjb said:


> It was one of MechDVR’s posts from the Gems thread of excessive nail plating.


Wait are you serious? I almost went out and bought a bucket of plates because I thought he was recommending that.


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## green4now (Jul 29, 2016)

macmikeman said:


> Big waste of nailing strips. Self sticking tie wraps down the center between the furring would have done the trick and met code. No need to waste that steel.


Can you explain this? I don't know what self sticking tie wraps are or how you are suggesting I use them. I need to run the romex horizontally and then vertically along stucco for about 15 feet, at a depth of about 1 inch so I need to cover them. (Second question, what kind of staples should I use for stucco?)


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

green4now said:


> Can you explain this? I don't know what self sticking tie wraps are or how you are suggesting I use them. I need to run the romex horizontally and then vertically along stucco for about 15 feet, at a depth of about 1 inch so I need to cover them. (Second question, what kind of staples should I use for stucco?)



Not ty wraps, but a square base that holds the tie wrap. Remove a pice of paper to expose the self stick part. They don't hold very well , especially on masonry , but probably long enough to get inspected and buried behind the drywall. That is all you really need anyway, securing and stapling cables is highly overrated. Actually , if done tight it can start a fire in a dwelling that will be moving around due to settling of the foundation and building moves around. Some codes were originally written by dumbasses who thought having neatness was the supreme most important thing to consider when installing electrical wiring. You know--- Fat New York Manhattan Union guys who mostly talk big but don't ever get much done. The code making panels used to be loaded up with those type of guys.
Brother this, brother that, better have a sticker on that lunch pail brother or watch out........

And the best "staple" for Romex cable run on masonry is actually a 3/8" one hole strap designed for mc cable. And a tap con screw to hold it in place. Use a Milwaukee SDS cordless drill and you are faster and better than Flash Gordon.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

telsa said:


> 12 Gauge ? Sheesh!


Whatever the hell they are.... maybe it's sixteen. I look it up just before ordering. I forget useless stuff by nightfall. That way, every morning I can have a brand new dog.


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)




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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

telsa said:


> 12 Gauge ? Sheesh!





macmikeman said:


> Whatever the hell they are.... maybe it's sixteen. I look it up just before ordering.


It's easy to remember, 16 gauge is 1/16th, that's the minimum if you're rolling your own nail plates. 



> I forget useless stuff by nightfall. That way, every morning I can have a brand new dog.


Who said that? 

:laughing:


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

splatz said:


> It's easy to remember, 16 gauge is 1/16th, that's the minimum if you're rolling your own nail plates.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Get off my lawn!:vs_mad:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I took this while I was in Florida recently. This is typical for the block construction down there. All new homes are done this way from what I saw.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Not related, but good anyway. Another Florida house. 

Oops, we forgot to install the conduit before the pour.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

MTW said:


> Not related, but good anyway. Another Florida house.
> 
> Oops, we forgot to install the conduit before the pour.


:sleep1::sleep1:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

CoolWill said:


> :sleep1::sleep1:


I see.


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

MTW said:


> Not related, but good anyway. Another Florida house.
> 
> Oops, we forgot to install the conduit before the pour.



If I was any dumber,
I woulda been a plumber...


No, wait, he got his in. :biggrin:


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

MTW said:


> I took this while I was in Florida recently. This is typical for the block construction down there. All new homes are done this way from what I saw.




Pretty much. 


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> Big waste of nailing strips. Self sticking tie wraps down the center between the furring would have done the trick and met code. No need to waste that steel. .


I've actually done just that I the past. Only thing is I used a dab of construction adhesive to hold the ty-wrap sticky base to the masonry.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

manchestersparky said:


> I've actually done just that I the past. Only thing is I used a dab of construction adhesive to hold the ty-wrap sticky base to the masonry.


if you really wan't the base to stick, cut up one of those sticky roach and mice traps into oblong rectangles, folds inwards to two equal squares and back to back em. One side to hold to the concrete block and the other side to hold the Romex.......... That ain't never coming off


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## shauninusa (12 mo ago)

HackWork said:


> The cable only needs to be protected when it is within 1.25" of the framing member. That means the hole has to be 1.25" back OR the cable needs to be off to the side by 1.25".
> 
> So if that cable running down the left side is 1.25" from the edge of the furring strip, no protection is needed.
> 
> ...


I use these things they are meant for the job and easy to use, you just have to flatten the bend out on 1” furring strips, inspectors seem to like them also. 100 for $50 on Amazon even cheaper from your local supply shop. Lowes alos sell them but its like 3 for $10 but works at a pinch.


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## shauninusa (12 mo ago)

shauninusa said:


> I use these things they are meant for the job and easy to use, you just have to flatten the bend out on 1” furring strips, inspectors seem to like them also. 100 for $50 on Amazon even cheaper from your local supply shop. Lowes alos sell them but its like 3 for $10 but works at a pinch.
> View attachment 162164
> 
> View attachment 162163
> ...


Ive seen them referred to as Colorado Jims, they are officially called CJ6’s


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

shauninusa said:


> Ive seen them referred to as Colorado Jims, they are officially called CJ6’s


dude :: google stackers
plastic (no worries about the metal eating into the wire)
waaayyy cheaper


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Almost Retired said:


> dude :: google stackers
> plastic (no worries about the metal eating into the wire)
> waaayyy cheaper


Or dood, fking secure it to the wall


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## shauninusa (12 mo ago)

Almost Retired said:


> dude :: google stackers
> plastic (no worries about the metal eating into the wire)
> waaayyy cheaper


Stalkers don't fit on to 1” furring strips attached to block walls.


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

shauninusa said:


> Stalkers don't fit on to 1” furring strips attached to block walls.


sorry didnt know you were on furring rather than studs


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## shauninusa (12 mo ago)

No worries, appreciate the response. I love stackers for those 3 & 4 gang light switch boxes in stud walls. Maybe there's money to be made in making a similar stacker for those of us dealing with furring on block walls, God knows it's been asked in this and other groups enough.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

shauninusa said:


> Stalkers don't fit on to 1” furring strips attached to block walls.


so modify it or get the proper kind of stacker for it. Or use gum...


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## shauninusa (12 mo ago)

Majewski said:


> so modify it or get the proper kind of stacker for it. Or use gum...
> View attachment 162172


"or get the proper kind of stacker"You mean like the CJ6's I posted the picture of? 😉


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

shauninusa said:


> "or get the proper kind of stacker"You mean like the CJ6's I posted the picture of? 😉


Show us the code that says it's proper or improper.


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## Scubahigh97 (Aug 18, 2021)

tjb said:


>


😆


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

shauninusa said:


> "or get the proper kind of stacker"You mean like the CJ6's I posted the picture of? 😉





Majewski said:


> Show us the code that says it's proper or improper.


still waiting....


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Scubahigh97 said:


> 😆


Red sticker for failing to install to the manufacturer's instructions.


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## hornetd (Oct 30, 2014)

joe-nwt said:


> Red sticker for failing to install to the manufacturer's instructions.


Joe I know nothing about Canadian electrical practices but down here in Maryland the only enforceable instructions are those that are included in the listing or labeling. A separate insert that does not bear the laboratory listing mark cannot be enforced. Instructions included in the labeling are only those on the same sticker that shows the listing mark and no other. 

An inspector tried to enforce the use only *** breakers language that was on a different label. The manufacturer was long gone and that brand and model of breaker were flat not available. I showed him the letter on the manufacturers stationary that said their breakers were listed as well as recognized for use in the old panel. I then showed him the photocopy of the UL white book which showed that the breaker was UR Underwriters Recognized for that panel. He then asked his real question. Why didn't I replace the panel. I told him that the owner had only sought proposal on replacing the bad breakers and that was all I had bid on. He left muttering but he left a green sticker behind to affix to the panel cover. I've never understood how a small percentage of inspectors get the idea that they can enforce their view of good practice. 

Tom Horne


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Ha-ha. Well I've never seen an instruction sheet in the box nor a label on individual protection plates. However, I'm pretty sure I would have a hard time explaining how I thought those plates were installed properly.


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## Scubahigh97 (Aug 18, 2021)

tjb said:


>


Who does that


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