# Ridgid Conduit



## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Just started work on a new site for an American outfit, first time ever seeing ridgid and we are doing the conduits that go under the switchgear, 4" and 2" sizes I think. 

Got a 110v greenlee 555 and some ridgid threaders and hand threaders onsite, whats the best length to cut your threads, half the size of the couplings or slightly smaller? And is thread tape required if its going to be covered in concrete? 

Also the American builders said they wanted a U shape bend in the 2" to use as a water resistant roof penetration, the 555 would only really let us do about 120 degrees then the pipe kinked , I cant really see a way to do that without just using 2 90s and a coupling unless anyone else has a method?


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

Some of the threading machines have an automatic die opener when the thread is standard depth. This is nothing elaborate, only a cam in the die. Without this, a good thread is the pipe flush with the end of the die to one thread past. 

For the 180 deg, bend two 90s back to back. It would be tough to pull wire in a true 180 bend.

The most helpful skill with running rigid is your ability to layout the runs to save effort and the need for extra bends for the "didn't see that beam there" moments. When bending rigid, you will need to over bend slightly to compensate for the "spring back". This is a trial and error to determine the amount of over bend needed as it varies with conduit brand, bender and ambient temperature. For example, a 2 inch, one shot 90, may need to be bent 95 degrees to end up as a 90.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Ah I see what your saying, we unbolted the emt shoe off the 555 to try and bend it in one go, haha.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

The threads are tapered Chewy, you'll find that if you try and introduce too many and it just makes a mess of it. The NEC standard is 5 threads anyways, and they market pipe dope for the threads....~CS~


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Just take a look at a factory thread and don't go much past that depth.
The reason is that the thread is tapered and it's important in most cases to keep that in order for the couplings to seat correctly and tighten up.
If you run the thread, the thread will become straight.
It takes a small amount of practice to get used to any bender.
Take notes and try not to repeat the same mistakes. You will have many. Don't worry. 
Just don't make so many that they call the mistake pipe pile the Chewy pile.
It happens.
If you can, name the scrap pile after someone right after they make a notable mistake. Less of a chance of it being you.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

chicken steve said:


> The threads are tapered Chewy, you'll find that if you try and introduce too many and it just makes a mess of it. The NEC standard is 5 threads anyways, and they market pipe dope for the threads....~CS~


Well, 5 threads for some classed environments anyway.


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## JW Splicer (Mar 15, 2014)

Put in an order for about 100 2" ericksons! Then just watch their faces! Or 4" OZ's! It will be awesome!


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

chicken steve said:


> The threads are tapered Chewy, you'll find that if you try and introduce too many and it just makes a mess of it. The NEC standard is 5 threads anyways, and they market pipe dope for the threads....~CS~


That is not the number of threads on the conduit. It is the minimum number of threads that must be engaged in the female threaded device for classified areas. 
Typically you should thread to the end of the die to have the correct thread length.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

This page shows the approximate length and number of threads required based on ANSI B1.20.1. That is the standard that conduit threads are based on.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

That was a good help thanks guys.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

JW Splicer said:


> Put in an order for about 100 2" ericksons! Then just watch their faces! Or 4" OZ's! It will be awesome!


Are OZ's the same as a PBW?


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

> ...Also the American builders said they wanted a U shape bend in the 2" to use as a water resistant roof penetration,...


There is in general no requirement for your electrical pipe it be run with
a plumbers trap. The roof penetration should be made fast with roof material
and should be completely leak free for anything going through the roof.

The HVAC tech does not put a drip loop in their runs. Drip loops are for sewer
gas. I'm at a WWTP now and we have no requirement to drip loop any of our work.

The GC is full of it, IMO!


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

A P trap for electrical ? lol !!


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> That is not the number of threads on the conduit. It is the minimum number of threads that must be engaged in the female threaded device for classified areas.
> Typically you should *thread to the end of the die *to have the correct thread length.


please keep in mind the 4" is different


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

360max said:


> please keep in mind the 4" is different


Yes, for most dies, on conduits 2 1/2" and larger, the die teeth are not the length of the thread.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

chewy said:


> Just started work on a new site for an American outfit, first time ever seeing ridgid and we are doing the conduits that go under the switchgear, 4" and 2" sizes I think.
> 
> Got a 110v greenlee 555 and some ridgid threaders and hand threaders onsite, whats the best length to cut your threads, half the size of the couplings or slightly smaller? And is thread tape required if its going to be covered in concrete?
> 
> Also the American builders said they wanted a U shape bend in the 2" to use as a water resistant roof penetration, the 555 would only really let us do about 120 degrees then the pipe kinked , I cant really see a way to do that without just using 2 90s and a coupling unless anyone else has a method?


Is it military? If not, any reason why they want their site to conform to American standards?


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

CADPoint said:


> There is in general no requirement for your electrical pipe it be run with a plumbers trap. The roof penetration should be made fast with roof material and should be completely leak free for anything going through the roof. ...


I have seen the 180° requirement a few times, most often for communications cables that would be run exposed above the roof. I don't recall ever seeing it for power cables.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

MTW said:


> Is it military? If not, any reason why they want their site to conform to American standards?


Sort of but I cant go into any detail.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

CADPoint said:


> There is in general no requirement for your electrical pipe it be run with
> a plumbers trap. The roof penetration should be made fast with roof material
> and should be completely leak free for anything going through the roof.
> 
> ...


We do it all the time in NZ with PVC, for coax cables, we bring it up and then bend it 180 back towards where it came so no water can get dowm the pipe.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> I have seen the 180° requirement a few times, most often for communications cables that would be run exposed above the roof. I don't recall ever seeing it for power cables.


Im actually not sure what was going in these, could have been coax cable.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

chewy said:


> We do it all the time in NZ with PVC, for coax cables, we bring it up and then bend it 180 back towards where it came so no water can get dowm the pipe.


Isn't that what rain heads are for?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

B-Nabs said:


> Isn't that what rain heads are for?


Sure, but it's also not that unusual for aerial fiber to come in a big 180-degree bend. Weatherheads are too tight.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

B-Nabs said:


> Isn't that what rain heads are for?


Never heard of them.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

chewy said:


> Never heard of them.












Might be a North American thing. I don't know. More typically called weatherheads or entrance fittings.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> Might be a North American thing. I don't know. More typically called weatherheads or entrance fittings.


Those would be good to use... not sure why they didnt have them as everything just gets shipped from the US, we got told off for using local screws. They would rather we used an American 8g screw for installing straps on 2" emt than let us use a tek which I feel holds better onto steel stud than a wood screw. The foreman said he had never seen one before.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

chewy said:


> Those would be good to use... not sure why they didnt have them as everything just gets shipped from the US, we got told off for using local screws. They would rather we used an American 8g screw for installing straps on 2" emt than let us use a tek which I feel holds better onto steel stud than a wood screw. The foreman said he had never seen one before.
> View attachment 56290


Never heard of one? I think he's nuts. Everyone uses tek screws. The one you posted, with the rubber washer, I call "barn tin screws".


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> Never heard of one? I think he's nuts. Everyone uses tek screws. The one you posted, with the rubber washer, I call "barn tin screws".


His exact words were "I have never seen those before in my life". He had heaps of stickers on his hardhat so I had no reason to question his experience, hahah.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

chewy said:


> His exact words were "I have never seen those before in my life". He had heaps of stickers on his hardhat so I had no reason to question his experience, hahah.


Tell him, "sorry about your sheltered life". :thumbsup:


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