# unistrut rack



## polyphase (Nov 1, 2011)

I've got to build a unistrut rack outside for my panel my question is would yall use strut for the legs that will be concreted or use 2" rigid conduit or something for the legs if conduit is used would you use u bolts or strut straps, and don't they make a cap for the rigid conduit so the threads wouldn't be showing at the top this is for a va cemetery so I would like to know which method would look the best. Thanks


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Strut


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I've done it both ways. If it was my choice, I would do it with strut uprights so that I didn't have to deal with the pour, I could just come in later and anchor down some feet and run the strut up from there.


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## Awg-Dawg (Jan 23, 2007)

I agree with the guy with his head up his azz.


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## bigpapa08 (Nov 19, 2012)

Strut.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Strut but I would not embed the strut into the cement I would use strut feet so it could be replaced without breaking the concrete up.











Or


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## polyphase (Nov 1, 2011)

Thanks for input I guess ill use strut, there is no concrete pad there. This will be a free standing rack I will have to dig a hole in the ground and pour concrete for the strut legs This will be permanent its for a big irrigation system. Thanks for the input, ill post some pics when I get started on it .


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

Why do you have to concrete around the legs?


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## randas (Dec 14, 2008)

I would use rigid uprights and attach the horizontals with u bolts. Yes they make caps to finish the top.

Or if strut I would imbed it in the concrete and if a guy had to replace it he could cut it off flush and then use strut feet 



BBQ said:


> Strut but I would not embed the strut into the cement I would use strut feet so it could be replaced without breaking the concrete up.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I usually roll with GRC or well casing/steel pipe, sometimes strut on small stuff but usually I'm hanging stupid amounts of stuff on racks. :laughing:


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## RHWilks (Jul 14, 2012)

I use 3" GRC dig the hole 30" make a nice straight cut at the height I choose, I use Mini's on the pipe, to install my strut, mount my equipment. I fill the post hole with cement, fill the pipes with LOLOLOL.. dig thru the back of your truck, and find enough water bottles, to fill the conduit up near the top, a good handful of wet concrete, make a nice finish. I usually make a slight dome, How ever..white plastic plunger caps will work in a pinch, if your willing to paint them with silver paint.


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

I build a lot of strut stanchions and always have the legs concreted. In my opinion, there isn't enough surface area around a strut leg to keep it compacted in earth without concrete. When I do a strut stanchion with 6x6 PT posts, I'll do it without concrete unless it has a huge heavy cabinet hanging from it.

I use back-back strut for 98% of my strut stanchions unless it's a small box hanging from it or if it's close to the ground where there isn't much leverage against it, then I'll just use deep. It gets windy over here, so I don't like my panels bouncing around on a flimsy stanchion.


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## SteveBayshore (Apr 7, 2013)

We always GRC in NJ. Strut will surely rot off where it leaves the concrete with our seashore air. You could always coat the strut with that spray undercoating or something similar before embedding. We mount the stanchions far enough apart so the equipment fits in between them. The horizontal struts would mount on the back side of the posts with the slot facing you. You can then use regular conduit strut straps to to mount the horizontals to the conduit stanchions. This allows you to use spring nuts to mount the equipment, since the channel is now facing you. We also use threaded PVC caps (plumbing) on the top of the posts. If you have to cut off the threaded tops for any reason, caps for chain link fence posts usually fit. If you use conduit for the posts, you must cap off the tops. We did a job a few years ago and forgot to cap off the tops. We went back to the site for an upgrade a couple of years later and the posts were split down the sides from filling with water and freezing.


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## Bbsound (Dec 16, 2011)

3" galvanized angle iron custom welded to size
Cold galvanize the welds, set in concrete and mound the concrete just enough water does not collect around the steel.


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## SteveBayshore (Apr 7, 2013)

Bbsound said:


> 3" galvanized angle iron custom welded to size
> Cold galvanize the welds, set in concrete and mound the concrete just enough water does not collect around the steel.


We have them hot dipped after fabrication.:thumbup:


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## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

polyphase said:


> Thanks for input I guess ill use strut, there is no concrete pad there. This will be a free standing rack I will have to dig a hole in the ground and pour concrete for the strut legs This will be permanent its for a big irrigation system. Thanks for the input, ill post some pics when I get started on it .


Freestanding in dirt with no pad makes me lean more toward rigid verticals concreted in and horizontal strut u- bolted or strut strapped to the verticals . A lot less flex with GRC than strut . If there were an existing pad there , the strut floor flanges would have been fine too .


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

It depends how big the stand is. Also, you can buy galvanized pipes cap.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

3xdad said:


> Why do you have to concrete around the legs?


For rigid support.


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

2" sqaure tubing or 4" c-channel for smaller stands or 4" square tubing for larger ones...


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

BBQ said:


> Strut but I would not embed the strut into the cement I would use strut feet so it could be replaced without breaking the concrete up.
> 
> Or


I use the feet like BBQ, but I like double strut.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

randas said:


> I would use rigid uprights and attach the horizontals with u bolts. *Yes they make caps to finish the top.*
> 
> Or if strut I would imbed it in the concrete and if a guy had to replace it he could cut it off flush and then use strut feet


 
Yeah, you can buy them at any Home Depot or plumbing supply house.:thumbsup:


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

backstay said:


> I use the feet like BBQ, but I like double strut.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 28289



It's a lot cheaper to buy 2 sticks of strut and bolt them together than buy doublestrut


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## denny3992 (Jul 12, 2010)

I use this and some ss strut and never worry about rusting


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

denny3992 said:


> I use this and some ss strut and never worry about rusting
> 
> View attachment 28312


Unless it is spec, I'm not paying for SS. It's over 5x's the cost of galvanized.


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## SteveBayshore (Apr 7, 2013)

If it's not 316ss, it'll rust in NJ.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

sparky970 said:


> Unless it is spec, I'm not paying for SS. It's over 5x's the cost of galvanized.


We go through hundreds and hundreds of feet of stainless. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

Make mine Kindorf.


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## walkerj (May 13, 2007)

Jlarson said:


> We go through hundreds and hundreds of feet of stainless. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


I love expensive material if it is T&M or if it was actually in the bid.


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## canaston (Jun 24, 2009)

concrete post or 2 direct buried with gravel around the base
1 post if you don't have much to mount, 2 post to build s.s. strut rack.
4x4x6 4x4x8 6x6 and 8x8 post sizes depending.


usually how we do it where I work

chris


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## Ninjazx916r (Apr 1, 2011)

polyphase said:


> I've got to build a unistrut rack outside for my panel my question is would yall use strut for the legs that will be concreted or use 2" rigid conduit or something for the legs if conduit is used would you use u bolts or strut straps, and don't they make a cap for the rigid conduit so the threads wouldn't be showing at the top this is for a va cemetery so I would like to know which method would look the best. Thanks


You can't just mount it to the wall?


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## polyphase (Nov 1, 2011)

Nope they don't want the possibly damaging the 100 year old stone wall. But thats ok ill build a rack. It is what it is.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

Jlarson said:


> We go through hundreds and hundreds of feet of stainless. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$



I will to, if its required. I'm not going to bid a job with SS if I don't need to. $65 vs $12 per 10' piece


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## denny3992 (Jul 12, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> We go through hundreds and hundreds of feet of stainless. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


As do we at the wwtp.... If its not plastic, alum or ss forget it....

Then again i dont see invoices and dont have to pay for it!


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

polyphase said:


> this is for a va cemetery so I would like to know which method would look the best. Thanks



Mount it on a big tombstone?


Just build a form flat on the ground, pour concrete in it, stand it up and bury it 1/3 of the way. :thumbup:


I'd use square tubing and tek screws in lieu of strut. I think it's easier to work with. A small panel would mount nice and stealthy to a single piece of 4"


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

sparky970 said:


> It's a lot cheaper to buy 2 sticks of strut and bolt them together than buy doublestrut


I charge markup on materials, more is better.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

sparky970 said:


> I will to, if its required. I'm not going to bid a job with SS if I don't need to. $65 vs $12 per 10' piece


We are doing process for an EC at a chem plant and they decided to bid all stainless, to avoid paint. Overlooking that all the existing structure and strut is steel and all the welds will need to be ground then repainted anyway. :laughing:


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