# m12 fuel good enough for commercial?



## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

It should be plenty for that. Remember, the new 12v are on par with the old 18v that most of us used for the last 20 or more years.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I would go with M18 only because the M18 Hackzall is better for heavier work.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

From the OPs description, the M12 line would be great.



99cents said:


> I would go with M18 only because the M18 Hackzall is better for heavier work.


M12 bandsaw.


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## Chase13 (Jan 14, 2014)

my company provides use with m12 fuels and we only use the 18v fuel impact for driving acoustical lags all day into metal perlings and old joists and the 18v fuel drill for holesaws and such. The each have their place


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## jeromjenkins (Dec 26, 2013)

I tried finding the difference between the m18 hackzall and m12 but the specs seem the same. I have never ran pipe before, when I eventually have to I wanted a one handed saw. I see the guys I work with cut pipe with with a regular sawzall one handed and it just looks like an accident waiting to happen. Or they cut all thread over head this way and that looks even worse.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Like Hack said, get the bandsaw too. 

Cutting threaded rod with a sawzall is a waste of time, a bandsaw does a much better and cleaner job.

Go buy a bunch of 1/2" EMT and get to bending!


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

jeromjenkins said:


> I tried finding the difference between the m18 hackzall and m12 but the specs seem the same. I have never ran pipe before, when I eventually have to I wanted a one handed saw. I see the guys I work with cut pipe with with a regular sawzall one handed and it just looks like an accident waiting to happen. Or they cut all thread over head this way and that looks even worse.


Blade travel - 3/4" vs. 1/2". I have both and the M18 gets used more often. I save the M12 for cutting cabinetry with the jigsaw blade. The M18 is too extreme for finer work.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Blade travel - 3/4" vs. 1/2". I have both and the M18 gets used more often. I save the M12 for cutting cabinetry with the jigsaw blade. The M18 is too extreme for finer work.


He's doing commercial work. In 15 years of doing commercial work I could only remember a few times using a sawzall. One of the times was cutting walker duct in hospitals.

We always used a bandsaw for pipe, strut, or threaded rod.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Cutting pipe one handed with a Sawzall is just plain dumb. My Sawzall sits in the shop most of the time.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

99cents said:


> Cutting pipe one handed with a Sawzall is just plain dumb. My Sawzall sits in the shop most of the time.


Since getting a cordless multi-saw and a bandsaw.....My sawzall is gathering dust and rust on the shelf. It gets broken out now and then, but for home projects that have zip to do with electrical.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Cutting pipe one handed with a Sawzall is just plain dumb. My Sawzall sits in the shop most of the time.


Cutting pipe with a Hackzall is dumb too.


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## jeromjenkins (Dec 26, 2013)

I agree it's dumb. This place isn't exactly the best place to work as far as learning goes or at getting the right tools out to the job site. They are however extremely busy and 99% of the work is in town. The first place I worked for was good learning wise and always seemed to supply the right tools for the job, but also started missing paydays so I had to go.


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## RMRiggs (Feb 16, 2015)

I've got the M12 impact driver and I love it. I spent an entire day driving in silver bullets with it last week. At the beginning of the day the journeyman I was working with that day (not my usual journeyman who got me turned onto the m12 stuff) kept trying to get me to use his 20V Dewalt impact driver, I kept telling him I was more comfortable with my Milwaukee... At the end of the day he started asking where I got it and how much it was, also worked the whole day on one battery. We also use M12 hackzals for cutting EMT, the bandsaw might be better for that (i really want one to find out) but the hackzal has worked great for me for cutting pipe, and everyone else at the company wants one now also. I was originally thought to cut pipe using a 20v sawzall one handed also, and the m12 is much easier...


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## RMRiggs (Feb 16, 2015)

RMRiggs said:


> I've got the M12 impact driver and I love it. I spent an entire day driving in silver bullets with it last week. At the beginning of the day the journeyman I was working with that day (not my usual journeyman who got me turned onto the m12 stuff) kept trying to get me to use his 20V Dewalt impact driver, I kept telling him I was not comfortable with my Milwaukee... At the end of the day he started asking where I got it and how much it was, also worked the whole day on one battery. We also use M12 hackzals for cutting EMT, the bandsaw might be better for that (i really want one to find out) but the hackzal has worked great for me for cutting pipe, and everyone else at the company wants one now also. I was originally thought to cut pipe using a 20v sawzall one handed also, and the m12 is much easier...


 I kept telling him I was more comfortable with my Milwaukee... Is what I meant to say…

ok I realized I could edit the other post...


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

99cents said:


> Cutting pipe one handed with a Sawzall is just plain dumb. My Sawzall sits in the shop most of the time.


Meh, I do it all the time. EMT, PVC, doesn't matter. Just don't be a p*ssy about it and it will be fine. :whistling2:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Meh, I do it all the time. EMT, PVC, doesn't matter. Just don't be a p*ssy about it and it will be fine. :whistling2:


Yup, I used to use my 18v Dewalt sawzall to cut pipe when doing sidework, before I bought the proper tools. Just wrap your four fingers around the pipe and put your thumb on the top of the sawzall and it's easy to cut in the air.

But the OP is looking for the right tools for the job and the M12 bandsaw is it. Cutting pipe with any reciprocating saw (sawzall or hackzall) is hack.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

HackWork said:


> Yup, I used to use my 18v Dewalt sawzall to cut pipe when doing sidework, before I bought the proper tools. Just wrap your four fingers around the pipe and put your thumb on the top of the sawzall and it's easy to cut in the air.
> 
> But the OP is looking for the right tools for the job and the M12 bandsaw is it. Cutting pipe with any reciprocating saw (sawzall or hackzall) is hack.


You're not my supervisor!


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> You're not my supervisor!


I'm your father figure. I have to retrain you out of all those bad habits your dad taught you.


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## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

HackWork said:


> Cutting pipe with a Hackzall is dumb too.


Actually it's fast and easy with a Hackzall..


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

Going_Commando said:


> Meh, I do it all the time. EMT, PVC, doesn't matter. Just don't be a p*ssy about it and it will be fine. :whistling2:


It's all that I had seen people use for years. Never came close to an accident, never heard of one either. A drill on the other hand...

I also think that something like a bandsaw should be provided by the company. I'm not bringing a gang box full of tools to someone else's job...


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

Black Dog said:


> Actually it's fast and easy with a Hackzall..


Cuts strut faster too....

Don't get me wrong I love the m12 bandsaw. It's great for track, wiremold, and threaded rod. I prefer it for emt as well. I just wouldn't hesitate to use a sawzall for pipe either.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Black Dog said:


> Actually it's fast and easy with a Hackzall..


For homeowners and handymen.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Cutting pipe with a Hackzall is dumb too.


 Its only dumb if you don't know how to use it.


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## jeromjenkins (Dec 26, 2013)

I have narrowed it down to these 3 kits...
http:// http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/combo-kits/2799-22cx

http:// http://m.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Hammer-Drill-Impact-Driver-XC-Combo-Kit-with-Free-M18-LED-Flood-Flash-Light-2697-22-2361-20/205809628/

http:// http://m.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-Fuel-12-Volt-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Driver-and-Impact-Combo-Kit-with-Free-M12-Hackzall-Reciprocating-Saw-Tool-Only-2597-22-2420-20/205044700/


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## RMRiggs (Feb 16, 2015)

I would say go for the third option


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## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

HackWork said:


> For homeowners and handymen.


Maybe you do not know how to cut pipe...:laughing:

Here's a lesson....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkG8YX4DIJQ


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Black Dog said:


> Maybe you do not know how to cut pipe...:laughing:
> 
> Here's a lesson....
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkG8YX4DIJQ


Harry, quit being a tard.

The OP is clearly looking for the right tool for the job.


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## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

HackWork said:


> Harry, quit being a tard.
> 
> The OP is clearly looking for the right tool for the job.


:laughing::laughing:


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

He's an apprentice. A Hackzall is the best bang for his buck. There's hardly a day goes by that I don't end up using a Hackzall for something; it's that versatile. Every electrician should own one.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

99cents said:


> He's an apprentice. A Hackzall is the best bang for his buck. There's hardly a day goes by that I don't end up using a Hackzall for something; it's that versatile. Every electrician should own one.


I'd tend to agree. Sawzall/hackzall first, portaband later.

I would be concerned about drilling top plates with an m12 drill though. U guess it would work with paddle bits if its wood?


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I have both the Hacksaws. They are both a joke. Get the M12 bandsaw. You will be glad you did.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

sbrn33 said:


> I have both the Hacksaws. They are both a joke. Get the M12 bandsaw. You will be glad you did.


 A joke? I don't know how a compact reciprocating saw can be considered a joke. It takes all the normal Sawzall blades plus those made specifically for the Hackzall. It cuts wood, steel and drywall. Last week I was cutting holes in decorative steel tubing for switches and receptacles. How are you going to do that with a bandsaw?


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

Sawzall of some sort is a necessity. I'm not so sure that I see the m12 bandsaw that way.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

BababooeyHTJ said:


> Sawzall of some sort is a necessity. I'm not so sure that I see the m12 bandsaw that way.


A powered Hacksaw and a sawzall are 2 very different tools. I was never a big fan of bandsaws until I bought a few. Now the guys fight over them. 
I agree that a sawzall is a necessity but the hacksaws sit on the bench untouched. This isn't just my opinion, it is the fact at my shop.


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

Idk, I get a lot of use out of my hackzall. I hated it at first too. Once you get used to using it you'll cut pipe and strut just fine. As 99cents mentioned it's also good for fine work unlike a sawzall.

The hackzall is a very versatile tool. Is it as good as a full blown sawzall for large cuts? No, but it'll do the trick. Is it as good as a bandsaw for pipe? No but it'll work fine. Is it as good as a jigsaw for fine cuts? Sometimes, since you don't need as much room.

Is it a great all around tool? I think so. Definitely a good bang for your buck for someone starting out


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> A joke? I don't know how a compact reciprocating saw can be considered a joke. It takes all the normal Sawzall blades plus those made specifically for the Hackzall. It cuts wood, steel and drywall. Last week I was cutting holes in decorative steel tubing for switches and receptacles. How are you going to do that with a bandsaw?


You do different work than the OP, he does commercial only. 

Using a power tool for drywall is just laziness. A keyhole saw cuts it like butter.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

BababooeyHTJ said:


> Idk, I get a lot of use out of my hackzall. I hated it at first too. Once you get used to using it you'll cut pipe and strut just fine. As 99cents mentioned it's also good for fine work unlike a sawzall.
> 
> The hackzall is a very versatile tool. Is it as good as a full blown sawzall for large cuts? No, but it'll do the trick. Is it as good as a bandsaw for pipe? No but it'll work fine. Is it as good as a jigsaw for fine cuts? Sometimes, since you don't need as much room.
> 
> Is it a great all around tool? I think so. Definitely a good bang for your buck for someone starting out


I agree for all around use. But he is doing commercial and most of what he cuts will be pipe or strut, which the bandsaw definitely excels at.


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

True, but what about demo? Cutting a box into a bathroom with that metal sheathing over the rock? Old working into trim? Cutting a quick straight line in some rock?

I don't know. If I had to pick just one it would be a hackzall, personally. It just does too many things well enough


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

I have the M12 Fuel impact, and I use it for 95% of my work now. My only gripe is the belt clip gets loose from time to time, and it is threaded into plastic. I use an XC 3.0 battery and it lasts a LONG time, yet the impact is still light and it stands up better on the bigger battery. It is not very good for tapcons, but I got a condrive for that, as I heard tapcons aren't really meant for impact drivers anyways.

As far as cutting tools, I have the M18 Hackzall, and my coworker has the regular M12 Hackzall. I prefer mine for cutting pipe, strut and allthread, but if it is a bunch, I have the boss bring a corded bandsaw. I like using what I have, but the bandsaw is easier and makes cleaner cuts.


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## dirtyfrank (Jan 25, 2011)

m12 fuel drill/driver is all i've been carrying in my everyday kit since i got a veto tech backpack a year and a half ago. 
it pretty much does anything i throw at it. step bits, jobbers, normal rough in, spade bits, you name it. the battery life is awesome too. i forgot my 18V one day doing a 200amp service, and had to use it for a 2.5 inch hole saw. the drill didn't sweat it. although i dont think i would subject it to that kinda use all the time. good to know it can get you out of a jam though!

go with one of those, and an m12 bandsaw or hackzall and you're in good shape for an apprentice!


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## jeromjenkins (Dec 26, 2013)

Yeah I think I am going to skip the drill and get the impact and hacksaw. I have 1.5 ah battery on my kobalt impact and only have to charge it once a week. That's how little I am driving screws, and I don't even bring my drill out most days. I just wanted to get something not home owner grade, and versatile.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> You do different work than the OP, he does commercial only.
> 
> Using a power tool for drywall is just laziness. A keyhole saw cuts it like butter.


You're a generator repair man. What do you know about the work I do and how I use my tools? 

Maybe you're lazy because you use a Fuel drill instead of this...


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

OP: you are going to be better off with the M18 metal cutting circular saw for conduit, strut, tray and rod. You can change the blades out but I just use the metal ones on timber also.


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## jeromjenkins (Dec 26, 2013)

Using a circular saw was how I was originally how I was taught. It was quick and easy.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> You're a generator repair man. What do you know about the work I do and how I use my tools?


 I have never repaired a generator in my life. 

I know about the work that you do because you constantly post about it, even in this thread. 



> Maybe you're lazy because you use a Fuel drill instead of this...


No, not at all. 

Again, using a power tool to cut drywall is laziness. If you are going to promote a tool, saying how well is cuts drywall is weaksauce.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I have never repaired a generator in my life.
> 
> I know about the work that you do because you constantly post about it, even in this thread.
> 
> ...


See, I don't know much about your line of work and you don't know much about mine. 

Sometimes I have to take out bigger sections of drywall and a Hackzall makes short work of it. Also, if you hold a Hackzall at an angle, you can score the drywall without damaging the vapor barrier. That way, you can fish wire between the drywall and the vapor barrier. Your fishtape doesn't get stuck in the insulation and you maintain the integrity of the insulated wall. Works great, especially with coax and Cat 5.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> See, I don't know much about your line of work and you don't know much about mine.


 You have posted time and time again about what you do and how you use your hackzall. I am not sure why you are getting mad about it, it's the words that you type.

The OP is doing commercial work which is different that what you say that you do. 



> Sometimes I have to take out bigger sections of drywall and a Hackzall makes short work of it. Also, if you hold a Hackzall at an angle, you can score the drywall without damaging the vapor barrier. That way, you can fish wire between the drywall and the vapor barrier. Your fishtape doesn't get stuck in the insulation and you maintain the integrity of the insulated wall. Works great, especially with coax and Cat 5.


That's fine, because you do reno's as you have posted many times. But the OP is very rarely, if ever, going to be doing that on a commercial jobsite.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

You win. This conversation is becoming lame.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

The hackzall is great for cutting troughs in sheetrock for running wires. A drywall saw is the best for cutting in boxes. There, I settled it.


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

99cents said:


> See, I don't know much about your line of work and you don't know much about mine.
> 
> Sometimes I have to take out bigger sections of drywall and a Hackzall makes short work of it. Also, if you hold a Hackzall at an angle, you can score the drywall without damaging the vapor barrier. That way, you can fish wire between the drywall and the vapor barrier. Your fishtape doesn't get stuck in the insulation and you maintain the integrity of the insulated wall. Works great, especially with coax and Cat 5.


Yup, although I do love my multi-tool for that.


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## RMRiggs (Feb 16, 2015)

BababooeyHTJ said:


> Yup, although I do love my multi-tool for that.


My journeyman just got the m12 multi tool so we were both using it all day yesterday at remodel cutting sheet rock... Some of the stuff it worked really well for...


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

RMRiggs said:


> My journeyman just got the m12 multi tool so we were both using it all day yesterday at remodel cutting sheet rock... Some of the stuff it worked really well for...


Just don't try the 18 volt version. I've got the M12 but my boy bought the 18 volt one and now my M12 usually stays in the trailer. No comparison. If you're just cutting sheetrock it's okay. If you're going to cut wood, get the M18.


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Anybody tried the m12 sds?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

tjb said:


> Anybody tried the m12 sds?


Yes, I've made a few posts about it. I was very skeptical about it since 12 V is very small. But I found it to be an excellent tool. Its so small and lightweight, yep it works very well. 

If you're going to get one, make sure to get the fuel model. There is an older non-fuel model that is less powerful and comes with smaller capacity batteries.


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

tjb said:


> Anybody tried the m12 sds?


I love mine. Its more powerful than you would think. Perfect for drilling for anchors


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Lead drop-ins as well as tapcons? That's basically all I ever need in the trade. Making holes in stuff for running wires and pipes is relegated to one of the company's corded.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I use mine often for both size tapcons. I also use it to make 1/2" holes for 10-3 Romex.

The Fuel model is rated up to 5/8". I've used it to drill a 1" hole in block and it worked well, but poured concrete might be pushing it for that size.


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks!


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I think I'd leave the heavy drilling and cutting to the 18v models, and the day to day, like devicing to the 12v. I have both and love the 12v models because they are small and light. When I have to get out the hole saw, the 18v comes out. If I have a small remodel, I don't bother with the hole hawg. The 18v does fine.


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Yeah it's funny how the power is creeping up while voltag goes down. Someone somewhere here said that today's 18s are yesterday's 28s and today's 12s are on par with yesterday's 18s


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## RMRiggs (Feb 16, 2015)

tjb said:


> Yeah it's funny how the power is creeping up while voltag goes down. Someone somewhere here said that today's 18s are yesterday's 28s and today's 12s are on par with yesterday's 18s


I am seriously considering replacing my old 18v nicad desalt with a 12v fuel drill..


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

RMRiggs said:


> I am seriously considering replacing my old 18v nicad desalt with a 12v fuel drill..


I have the m12 fuel drill. It's good, just not that good. The m12 fuel impact really rocks though.


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## Athanasios718 (Sep 2, 2014)

I have the m12 bandsaw it really last and if your up on a scissor lift its really easy to use. I also have the m18 fuel bandsaw that's a real beast. The m12 is great cutting wires in a panel that's not live of course. If your cutting rod it last, if your cutting 1 1/4 kindorf it won't last long. The fuel hackzall is pretty much worth less well to me it vibrates way to much. If you have the funds buy the m12 and the m18 bandsaw it's so useful


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I figured I'd update an old thread rather than start one. The M12 hammer drill / impact set was on sale for $199 at HD so I decided to give it a go and see if the new 12V is enough bang for commercial work. If it turns out it's not, I never have trouble with returns at HD. 

So now that I had a chance to use it a little, I'd say yes, it's good enough for commercial work. 

The main test for me is drilling 1/4" holes in brick / block / concrete for anchors. 
They have enough power to do this reasonably quickly and enough run time on the 4Ah battery that shuffling batteries won't become a nuisance. If it can do this, it will be fine for step bits, 5/32" holes for tapcons, and driving small screws. 

The difference in size and weight versus the M18 may seem small in the store, but is a big deal to me on your belt or trying to stuff everything into a tool box. I don't want the tool that can do everything, there is no such thing. I want the tool that lets me work fastest, most efficiently, etc. 

I'll probably buy another small battery and another large battery. Additional tools for the M12 are cheaper than additional M18 tools, so I'll be able to afford more candy. 

The difference in price for the hammer drill kit without the impact is not much but if I could trade the impact for a couple batteries, I'd do it. I am not as big a fan of the impact as many here seem to be.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

I agree. Unless you are drilling out cans or in a electrical room, you can rough out the majority of T.I.,new construction.
I remember younger boxing out units with an 18 volt swinging on my hips (ouch). Now a M12 fuel impact is all I need.



Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

splatz said:


> I figured I'd update an old thread rather than start one. The M12 hammer drill / impact set was on sale for $199 at HD so I decided to give it a go and see if the new 12V is enough bang for commercial work. If it turns out it's not, I never have trouble with returns at HD.
> 
> So now that I had a chance to use it a little, I'd say yes, it's good enough for commercial work.
> 
> ...



Honestly if you do that much work with anchors you might want to think about the sds hammer drill. It is the ****. You will not use your small one again. If you need much torque the impact is kinda worthless but if you cut any conduit at all you need to pick up the M12 bandsaw right after the SDS. You will not regret it.


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## UncleMike (Jan 2, 2013)

splatz said:


> I'll probably buy another small battery and another large battery.


Check your local store(s) for the Hammerdrill kit (2404-22) - one of my local stores has the kit on clearance for $95. That's less than the price of a 4.0Ah battery alone, and includes a 4.0Ah battery, a 2.0Ah battery, a charger, and another hammerdrill.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

UncleMike said:


> Check your local store(s) for the Hammerdrill kit (2404-22) - one of my local stores has the kit on clearance for $95. That's less than the price of a 4.0Ah battery alone, and includes a 4.0Ah battery, a 2.0Ah battery, a charger, and another hammerdrill.
> 
> Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


That's a STEAL, I'd buy as many as they have at that price!


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## TheApprentice_ (Apr 11, 2015)

jeromjenkins said:


> I tried finding the difference between the m18 hackzall and m12 but the specs seem the same. I have never ran pipe before, when I eventually have to I wanted a one handed saw. I see the guys I work with cut pipe with with a regular sawzall one handed and it just looks like an accident waiting to happen. Or they cut all thread over head this way and that looks even worse.


we all use our dewalt 20v sawzalls one handed on our crew


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

TheApprentice_ said:


> we all use our dewalt 20v sawzalls one handed on our crew


One thing I noticed using my boss's DeWalt one handed, is that it leverages a lot of weight into the blade and I was having lots of locked rotor events. Once the motor did start spinning it outshined my Hackzall by a significant amount. I have never had the pleasure of using Milwaukee's Fuel reciprocating saws, but I wonder if they outperform DeWalt like the impact, and rotohammer do. I have had nothing but positive results from my 12v Fuel impact, it has made my brushed 18v impact redundant.

I got locked into Milwaukee's battery line a long time ago, and am actually on the cusp of either a metal cutting circular saw, band saw, M18 fuel reciprocating saw, or normal 7 1/4" Fuel circular saw with a metal demon blade.

I am not a fanboy of any particular brand, as I have used Chicago Electric through Hilti cordless tools, and find pros and cons of every brand. That said, once you get an extensive battery collection in one, it doesn't make sense to jump over. I actually really like Bosch 12v tools, but Milwaukee had to go and make their dual voltage charger and keep me on the red side. They are really pushing the boundary of what a 12v tool can do with their rotohammers, and circular saws. Then they are specializing a lot more with the scope, caulk gun, sub-scanner, cable cutter, IR thermometer and other trade specific tools.

I have always liked the "pro" DeWalt drills and impacts with 3 speed transmissions. A compact head and three lights on the impact have always impressed me, as well.


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## herby (Dec 14, 2014)

UncleMike said:


> Check your local store(s) for the Hammerdrill kit (2404-22) - one of my local stores has the kit on clearance for $95. That's less than the price of a 4.0Ah battery alone, and includes a 4.0Ah battery, a 2.0Ah battery, a charger, and another hammerdrill.





splatz said:


> That's a STEAL, I'd buy as many as they have at that price!


Yeah, that's crazy cheap I wonder if new M12 models are on the horizon.

Just last year I felt like a got a pretty good deal for that kit at $200. :turned:


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## UncleMike (Jan 2, 2013)

herby said:


> Yeah, that's crazy cheap I wonder if new M12 models are on the horizon.
> 
> Just last year I felt like a got a pretty good deal for that kit at $200. :turned:


I wondered the same thing when I was at the store, so I checked the Milwaukee site and there was nothing new or "coming soon" in the M12 Fuel listings. But after being in several other store since - all of which have the kit at $189 - I'm pretty sure it's just individual stores making down an item that doesn't sell well at that particular store.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


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## joebanana (Dec 21, 2010)

Does anybody ever use a tri-vice anymore?


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

joebanana said:


> Does anybody ever use a tri-vice anymore?


You mean the flat plate vice?
I still use it now and then.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I have just about all the M12 tools and find with the 4ah batteries they are great for most of the things I do. I do use the 18v for the full size sawzall, sds hammer, and right angle drill.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

*Son Of A Bitch*

Well, it never fails you wait for a bargain, and next time you're at the store it turns out you should have kept waiting. 

Home Depot is selling the Milwaukee M12 hammerdrill + impact kit + hackzall for $229. That's a real good deal! 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-HACKZALL-Tool-Only-2597-22-2420-20/205044700


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## Longhorn70 (Mar 9, 2016)

99cents said:


> Cutting pipe one handed with a Sawzall is just plain dumb. My Sawzall sits in the shop most of the time.


I use my M18 sawzall all day everyday to cut 1/2" up to 2" emt as well as 3/8 allthread. Ten plus years in and still have all my fingers! I only cut one piece at a time as we are hanging strut for track lighting and i measure off the floor to account for roof pitch. WAY faster than a bandsaw. Mabey 1 in 20 cuts you have to file for a few seconds to get nut on but still saves tons of time. "Dont be a ***** and everything will be ok!!"
Love that ****!


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