# Robroy conduit installation guide



## SHADOW (Feb 24, 2009)

Anyone have a good link where I kind find instruction how to instal the
conduit?
Does it need special paste in the threads?How long pvc I have to cut
to made threads at the end of the conduits?etc..

Thanks


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## goose134 (Nov 12, 2007)

Here's a sort of quickie: http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_pvc_coated_conduit/

And a very similar one from a Rob Roy installation instructor: 

http://www.ien.com/article/correct-installation-pvc/7630

Hope this helps


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## SHADOW (Feb 24, 2009)

:thumbsup:Thanks bro!
Exactely what I was looking for.:yes:

Hugo


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

We had a Rigid 300 with clamp teeth made for PVC coated RMC and a 555 with shoes made to fit it properly.


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## roj1020 (Sep 4, 2011)

ecmweb.com has some pretty good instructions. However they do talk about SOME tools that I cant seem to find anywhere. A strap wrench will work to tighten it but it only gets it so tight. I'm in the same boat as you. Gonna start working with it in a week or two and don't know a thing about it.


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## JTMEYER (May 2, 2009)

I had to run a bit awhile back. They were too tight to order any nipples so I had to thread up a bunch. I found that if you took a good sharp utility knife and ran it a lap around the pipe abut where your threads would end, the a couple cuts from that ring to the end of the pipe helped alot. The coating would split off and roll out of the dies as you threaded. I wish I had the special threader shoes, but noone had ever heard of the pipe, let alone the shoes. The boss just pointed at a pile of pipe and LB's and said have fun.


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## JTMEYER (May 2, 2009)

Just saw the o/p date......


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Funny, and I know this thread is old - but how does one thread get over 2,000 views and less than 10 replies? Weird.


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## JTMEYER (May 2, 2009)

I don't think all that many guys have had to deal with the stuff. I imagine alot have looked just to see what "robroy" is. Hell, I had to look too. They called it Ocal when I used it.


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## 636Sparky (Jun 24, 2011)

I believe both are brand names.


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## JTMEYER (May 2, 2009)

I believe you are correct.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

One of the best tips I have if you're running a regular threader without the special Rob Roy/Ocal jaws... only take a 1/2 depth first pass on the threads. For instance, if you're threading 3/4", set you threader to halfway between 3/4 and 1", and make a pass. This will get all the rubber off, and cut some of the thread. Open up the die, and make the full depth cut to 3/4". Never fails. You won't spin your pipe in the power vise jaws that way. If you spin the pipe in the vise jaws, you're effed, and you need to start all over again with a new piece.


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## DMILL (Oct 26, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> One of the best tips I have if you're running a regular threader without the special Rob Roy/Ocal jaws... only take a 1/2 depth first pass on the threads. For instance, if you're threading 3/4", set you threader to halfway between 3/4 and 1", and make a pass. This will get all the rubber off, and cut some of the thread. Open up the die, and make the full depth cut to 3/4". Never fails. You won't spin your pipe in the power vise jaws that way. If you spin the pipe in the vise jaws, you're effed, and you need to start all over again with a new piece.


They make a special coating for fixing this, and the "special jaws" never worked in our 300 machine. The only way to do it was the half pass as you stated, just be sure to clean the jaws often (the coating builds up in them making the pipe spin)


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## DMILL (Oct 26, 2010)

636Sparky said:


> I believe both are brand names.


Ocal is made by T&B and Rob Roy makes three variations, one is red inside, one is green, one is grey. Ocal is blue


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## Wireman191 (Aug 28, 2011)

This must be what Ive heard of as Ocal?


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

roj1020 said:


> A strap wrench will work to tighten it but it only gets it so tight.


It will be tight enough.


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## DMILL (Oct 26, 2010)

Wireman191 said:


> This must be what Ive heard of as Ocal?


Yupp


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## Wireman191 (Aug 28, 2011)

DMILL said:


> Yupp


 HAHA, If I looked one post above mine I'da known that!:wallbash:


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

I will also "chase" a factory cut thread to clean the coating off, especially if it is screwing into a pvc coated condulet or anything other than a coupling.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Someone mentioned thread coatings.... T&B makes this optional stuff called Koprshield. I never use it, but in heavy washdown areas I will spray the threads with cold galvanizing compound (silver spray paint, essentially). Keeps rust streaks from bleeding out of the fittings and running down the pipe.


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

Hogged out shoes and dies, work wonders. Sometimes you are better off using factory 90's on the bigger pipe (stuff you'd have to put in a frame bender to bend). Our six inch bender would bend up to 37 degrees without wrinkling the pipe, after that, it was pretty "risky". 

4" inch and smaller is a lot easier to work. Have a couple of 4" x 4"s, and 2" x 4"s around in case you have to wrestle pipe out of the bender...Love taps from either normally works.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> Someone mentioned thread coatings.... T&B makes this optional stuff called Koprshield. I never use it, but in heavy washdown areas I will spray the threads with cold galvanizing compound (silver spray paint, essentially). Keeps rust streaks from bleeding out of the fittings and running down the pipe.


I used to work with a guy that went to an Ocal course and was shown to use the brush on paint/repair compound on the threads instead of De-Ox. I couldn't find that information on any manufacturers sites. I've removed old coated conduit and had a lot of times where unscrewing the pipe tore the skirt on the coupling and fittings because they seal so well. Bonding issues?


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

sparky970 said:


> I used to work with a guy that went to an Ocal course and was shown to use the brush on paint/repair compound on the threads instead of De-Ox. I couldn't find that information on any manufacturers sites. I've removed old coated conduit and had a lot of times where unscrewing the pipe tore the skirt on the coupling and fittings because they seal so well. Bonding issues?


KoprShield is great stuff! Stays wet, claims to be electrically conductive, and is good thread dope. There's even a picture of it in the NECH at 300.6.

Nothing more fun to watch an apprentice trying to keep the Kopr Shield under control...spreads all over the apprenti, pipe, area... faster than radiation at Fukushima can


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

sparky970 said:


> I used to work with a guy that went to an Ocal course and was shown to use the brush on paint/repair compound on the threads instead of De-Ox. I couldn't find that information on any manufacturers sites. I've removed old coated conduit and had a lot of times where unscrewing the pipe tore the skirt on the coupling and fittings because they seal so well. Bonding issues?


The following is from the instructions for PlastiBond coated conduit.


> Degreasing is important in order to insure that the touch up compound will adhere to the unprotected steel. Bare steel is the most vulnerable area to corrosion in any conduit system, therefore, touch up compound must be used on all field cut threads and internal reams.


Their instructions are found in the end of their product catalog that can be downloaded here.
They also have an installation video.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> One of the best tips I have if you're running a regular threader without the special Rob Roy/Ocal jaws... only take a 1/2 depth first pass on the threads. For instance, if you're threading 3/4", set you threader to halfway between 3/4 and 1", and make a pass. This will get all the rubber off, and cut some of the thread. Open up the die, and make the full depth cut to 3/4". Never fails. You won't spin your pipe in the power vise jaws that way. If you spin the pipe in the vise jaws, you're effed, and you need to start all over again with a new piece.


That first pass to strip the rubber off is what I was taught, otherwise it gets caught up in the teeth and f*cks up the threads. I'm far from being proficient with rigid, though. Been spoiled by the ease of cutting to fit with EMT.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> The following is from the instructions for PlastiBond coated conduit.
> Their instructions are found in the end of their product catalog that can be downloaded here.
> They also have an installation video.



I probably stopped reading that after the first sentence. Thanks for shaming me.


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