# Everyone should have this anchor tool



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

We call those "hollow wall set tools". I was never a fan of lead anchors. If it was hollow and a steel anchor didn't work, I would use a toggle bolt.

I've fallen out of love with Tapcons too, I've replaced them with plastic anchors in most situations.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

HackWork said:


> We call those "hollow wall set tools". I was never a fan of lead anchors. If it was hollow and a steel anchor didn't work, I would use a toggle bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> I've fallen out of love with Tapcons too, I've replaced them with plastic anchors in most situations.




Tap cons are great. Toggle bolt access holes are too big for say one hole or mineralac straps. I was running 3/4 rigid with backstraps and cast one holes. This tool was perfect and you can really crank down on the screw. Plus I only had 1-1/2 1/4” machine screws and the excess threads right through. 

Personally (to me) tap cons are to carpenters what smack pins are to tin knockers. 


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

VELOCI3 said:


> Toggle bolt access holes are too big for say one hole or mineralac straps.


 Put a 1/4" fender washer underneath the strap, it covers the hole and makes the strap nice and solid. You can do this with drywall as well.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

HackWork said:


> Put a 1/4" fender washer underneath the strap, it covers the hole and makes the strap nice and solid. You can do this with drywall as well.




Done that before. Toggles in that scenario are great. Especially if you get a blowout on the first shot. 

Backstraps have the offset hole unlike the mineralac. 


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

I use mine all the time, even in solid concrete. 
They come in several sizes and never fail to set and hold fast. AJ's are no longer made from lead so they work great. 
Screw tap-kons they strip out the hole to easy.


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

Yes, these anchor setting tools work way better than the pin type tools that come with the anchors. You need not to be precise on hole depth and you can set an anchor most anywhere in a concrete block if the drilled hole does not bust out too badly.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

varmit said:


> Yes, these anchor setting tools work way better than the pin type tools that come with the anchors. You need not to be precise on hole depth and you can set an anchor most anywhere in a concrete block if the drilled hole does not bust out too badly.




I have a Hilti TE5 and it’s light and great for more delicate stuff. I accidentally grabbed my TE15 on a job and the increase in its percussion was almost too much. No power setting on that model. 

My uncle told me when I got into the union; “50% of this business is fastening”. Out of all the trades we have to have the deepest knowledge of different fasteners. 

Doing a pad mount fuel tank “2500 gal”. Manufacturer specs 5/8 anchor but the engineer wants 1” mortar set @ 12” into the pad. Never used Hilti adhesive anchors or mortar anchors before so add that to the fastener list. 


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

VELOCI3 said:


> Caulk-in anchor set tool.
> 
> 1/4” is the size to have because let’s face it block walls can be a crapshoot on getting enough meat and blues and screws only hold so much.
> 
> ...


What is that thing and how does it work?


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

HackWork said:


> We call those "hollow wall set tools". I was never a fan of lead anchors. If it was hollow and a steel anchor didn't work, I would use a toggle bolt.
> 
> I've fallen out of love with Tapcons too, I've replaced them with plastic anchors in most situations.


Regarding Tapcons, I have a difficult time believing you can put threads into concrete and have it hold.

Maybe you can’t teach an old dog new tricks.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

HackWork said:


> We call those "hollow wall set tools". I was never a fan of lead anchors. If it was hollow and a steel anchor didn't work, I would use a toggle bolt.
> 
> I've fallen out of love with Tapcons too, I've replaced them with plastic anchors in most situations.


I never used lead anchors, but, it seems they are too short to be effective.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

Bird dog said:


> I never used lead anchors, but, it seems they are too short to be effective.




Has the same threads as a steel drop-in anchor. 


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

This carpenter guy turned me on to something better than tap cons for hollow block that has soft grip and strips when trying to run tap cons. They look similar, the ones he had were white, but I found them in lighter blue than tap cons at the HD. It's 5 am. You have to wait an hour or so till this large coffee is done and it starts turning light and I go out to the truck to take a picture of them to show you. They work terrific in concrete block situations, they don't strip out like tap cons. Made exclusively for block walls. The tip is flat. Uses the same drill bit as tapcons. 


I have to write tapcons twice thanks to my spell checker. It want's to change it to tap cons constantly. Robots are not going to rule the world............


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

I have one of those. 

Highly recommend.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

Using these to mount 1/2” one hole and backstraps to block walls on a roof. Roofer wants me to use this and said he’s giving me a sealant to inject to seal the threads for waterproofing. 


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> What is that thing and how does it work?


Imagine needing to put an anchor in a spot that is hollow behind it, like on block.

That tool hold a lead anchor a set distance into the hole, and then allows you to hammer a setting tool inside of it in order to push down on the lead and compress it into the sides of the hole.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

*This*

These screws end the struggle with concrete block walls and tapcons. They won't loosen or pull out once you drive them in. I was complaining out loud about what a lousy hold some tapcons had securing a wp box outside a remodel job I just finished when the contractors son Wes overheard me and gave me some of these, only his ones were white. Same deal though. Very good stuff


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> These screws end the struggle with concrete block walls and tapcons. They won't loosen or pull out once you drive them in. * I was complaining out loud about what a lousy hold some tapcons had securing a wp box outside a remodel job I just finished* when the contractors son Wes overheard me and gave me some of these, only his ones were white. Same deal though. Very good stuff


I went full circle back to plastic anchors. I use #12 screws in them, which makes a super strong connection.


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

Do these work on standard drop in anchors from Hilti or red head?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MotoGP1199 said:


> Do these work on standard drop in anchors from Hilti or red head?


No, it only works on lead anchors, caulk-in anchors, or whatever they are called in your area.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

99cents said:


> What is that thing and how does it work?


It's a Greenlee 868 set tool. We call it a hollow wall set. 
Can't find a YouTube video spoken in Canadian. 
But here is the instruction. 

https://cdn.greenlee.com/resources/...&languageCode=en&countryCode=US&type=document


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

I use DOUBLE MACHINE ANCHORS in hollow masonry walls No special tools required.
always did a good job for me just put a fender washer between the work and the wall and you are good to go.

https://toggler.com/pdfs/Double-Expansion-Shields.pdf

LC


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> I use DOUBLE MACHINE ANCHORS in hollow masonry walls No special tools required.
> always did a good job for me just put a fender washer between the work and the wall and you are good to go.
> 
> https://toggler.com/pdfs/Double-Expansion-Shields.pdf
> ...




I have boxes of those. You can have them for free. 


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

Plastic anchors are for home DIYers.

Ucan Aluminum plugs for screws in concrete, hollow wall, brick or any masonry product
Anything heavier that requires larger than a screw, Hilti chemical anchors. The wall is coming down before that lets go


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

VELOCI3 said:


> Caulk-in anchor set tool.
> 
> 1/4” is the size to have because let’s face it block walls can be a crapshoot on getting enough meat and blues and screws only hold so much.


I have one in 1/4" and 3/8" sizes.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

manchestersparky said:


> I have one in 1/4" and 3/8" sizes.




I thought about getting the 3/8 one but if I’m drilling a 3/4 hole I might as well do a 1/4 toggle. Any 3/8 worthy stuff will probably go on strut anyway. 

I really did almost get the 3/8. But convinced myself no. I might just get it anyway. 


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

VELOCI3 said:


> I thought about getting the 3/8 one but if I’m drilling a 3/4 hole I might as well do a 1/4 toggle. Any 3/8 worthy stuff will probably go on strut anyway.
> 
> I really did almost get the 3/8. But convinced myself no. I might just get it anyway.
> 
> ...


I didn't pay for mine so I figured what the hell Ill take it when it was offered


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## Thirty-eight (Mar 2, 2020)

need a video or something I don’t do much work with cinder blocks or hollow masonry but I have no problem buying tools that I might need. How does it work?


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

Thirty-eight said:


> need a video or something I don’t do much work with cinder blocks or hollow masonry but I have no problem buying tools that I might need. How does it work?


I posted a link above. 
It is an anchor tool that works great for hollow walls also.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Thirty-eight said:


> need a video or something I don’t do much work with cinder blocks or hollow masonry but I have no problem buying tools that I might need. *How does it work?*


1) Drill a hole, the hole can be deep or never-ending.
2) Thread the lead anchor onto the set tool.
3) Insert the anchor into the hole until it is fully inside and the set tool is up against the wall.
4) Hammer the set tool a couple times.
5) Use a pair of channel locks to unthread the set tool from the anchor.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

wcord said:


> Plastic anchors are for home DIYers.
> 
> Ucan  Aluminum plugs for screws in concrete, hollow wall, brick or any masonry product
> Anything heavier that requires larger than a screw, Hilti chemical anchors. The wall is coming down before that lets go



I have never had a problem with plastic anchors doing what they're rated for, but those do look good. I don't know if they are available in the US though.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> I use DOUBLE MACHINE ANCHORS in hollow masonry walls No special tools required. always did a good job for me just put a fender washer between the work and the wall and you are good to go.
> 
> https://toggler.com/pdfs/Double-Expansion-Shields.pdf





VELOCI3 said:


> I have boxes of those. You can have them for free.


 I have not used them in a long time but I never had any trouble with them. There was an industrial supply I used to get them dirt cheap, they closed a long time ago. I remember having to fiddle with them sometimes, I think I had to start the fastener in there to expand it a hair so it didn't spin in the hole, other than that I don't remember any issues. 


@VELOCI3, what don't you like about them?


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

splatz said:


> I have never had a problem with plastic anchors doing what they're rated for, but those do look good. I don't know if they are available in the US though.


Once you've used them in masonry, you will see the difference. Unfortunately they are very pricey (at least in Canada) 20 cents each. 
I remember using them when I started the trade 50 years ago. 
One advantage is, if you make a slightly larger hole just break one in half and sandwich it with another.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Just don't be sticker shocked at the price, but I've had mine for thirty years or more.
Just bought one for work I think it was $65


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

wcord said:


> Once you've used them in masonry, you will see the difference. Unfortunately they are very pricey (at least in Canada) 20 cents each.
> I remember using them when I started the trade 50 years ago.
> One advantage is, if you make a slightly larger hole just break one in half and sandwich it with another.


The way I see it, ultimately it is all the same. The anchor you posted, plastic anchors, short pieces of #12 copper wire, large wood splinters, etc. It's just something for the screw to thread into and wedge against the wall of the hole.

I can use 2 plastic anchors and #12 screws (important) to fasten an FS box to a block wall and stand on the box.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

splatz said:


> I have not used them in a long time but I never had any trouble with them. There was an industrial supply I used to get them dirt cheap, they closed a long time ago. I remember having to fiddle with them sometimes, I think I had to start the fastener in there to expand it a hair so it didn't spin in the hole, other than that I don't remember any issues.
> 
> 
> @VELOCI3, what don't you like about them?




Because you have to gently start to thread your fastener in before it becomes secure in the hole. Sometimes they get pushed in and drop in the wall or they pull out and finally tighten slightly past the wall surface. 


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## Jhellwig (Jun 18, 2014)

manchestersparky said:


> I have one in 1/4" and 3/8" sizes.


I have a 10-24 one but have never seen any anchors for it. I don’t even know where it is. I know it is still in the package. Bought all 3 sizes from eBay back in 2003.


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