# Halo Old Work Cans



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I have not used the H5 but the H7 just pushes up. You have to use a screwdriver to push it the last bit. Also if the ceiling material is thick it may not work.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I have not used the H5 but the H7 just pushes up. You have to use a screwdriver to push it the last bit. Also if the ceiling material is thick it may not work.


The ceiling drywall seems to be standard size, I didn't measure it though. I tried pushing up with a screwdriver but it didn't help. I'm thinking maybe if I take the rubber/sponge tape off the clips they might lock in. Was hoping someone had run into this before.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I used some a few weeks ago.. you have to really jam the retaining clip up with a skinny screwdriver.. 

It took me a few times for it to hold.. a real PIA for sure..


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## GEORGE D (Apr 2, 2009)

Ive had the same issues, I'm always worried I'm gonna break the sheetrock while trying to push up. That would really $#%$ things up for sure.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

B4T said:


> I used some a few weeks ago.. you have to really jam the retaining clip up with a skinny screwdriver..
> 
> It took me a few times for it to hold.. a real PIA for sure..


Did your clips have the sponge tape on them?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Little-Lectric said:


> Did your clips have the sponge tape on them?


Yes they did.. the problem was where the tab on the clip catches the can..

You might have a piece of sponge tape in the way..


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## B W E (May 1, 2011)

The sponge has nothing to do with getting the clip down all the way... Simply to
Make the can air tight.

If the clip is difficult on standard thickness ceiling, the hole for the can is too tight. The lower portion of the clip that travels inside the thin vertical slot needs a bit of room to rotate. Either enlarge the hole just a hair, or with one hand, try to push the can in the opposite direction of the difficult clip, then try it.

Jamming it in with a screw driver is never a good idea. It can easily damage the housing itself or the impact can jack up the drywall. Just the last little bit on the clip is all you wanna use the screwdriver for.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

B4T said:


> Yes they did.. the problem was where the tab on the clip catches the can..
> 
> You might have a piece of sponge tape in the way..


Thanks, maybe I'll have better luck in the morning. I might just take all the tape off.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> I just put in 2 Halo remodel cans. They were 5" airtight cans. I can't get the clips to lock in on either can. I started late and didn't get finished so I'm going back in the morning. The clips have a sponge/rubber tape on them. I'm guessing that has to do with them being airtight. Does that tape need to come off for them to lock in? If not, what am I doing wrong?


Those clips are a bitch but if you can shave the hole a little bigger it will make it a little easier .

Hopefully someone will invent a clip that you can tighten with a screw gun..:thumbsup:


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I have not used the H5 but the H7 just pushes up. You have to use a screwdriver to push it the last bit. Also if the ceiling material is thick it may not work.



Jamming it in with a screw driver is never a good idea. It can easily damage the housing itself or the impact can jack up the drywall. Just the last little bit on the clip is all you wanna use the screwdriver for.[/quote]

It aint a heart transplant.

Whack it with your flat blade. Or just set a drywall screw in it.

If the can fits in the hole the clips will work.
If the clips don't fit,fit in a drywall screw- install the trim-stand back- looks GREAT- Collect the check and move on.


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## SteveO. (Oct 17, 2011)

HARRY304E said:


> Hopefully someone will invent a clip that you can tighten with a screw gun..:thumbsup:


Contrast lighting makes some great remodel cans that go in with a Phillips. Best remodel cans ever! I put in 11 today in no time with zero cursing or trying to jam the clips. Slide 'me up, use the drill to spin the screws tight and done. Less than a minute per can to put them up and they stay tight forever. I use them exclusively for 4". 

http://www.contrastlighting.com/en/pdf/CA2000.pdf


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

HARRY304E said:


> Those clips are a bitch but if you can shave the hole a little bigger it will make it a little easier .
> 
> Hopefully someone will invent a clip that you can tighten with a screw gun..:thumbsup:


Are you talking about making the hole in the drywall bigger?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

leland said:


> Whack it with your flat blade. Or just set a drywall screw in.


OMG.. a drywall screw.. the ET Gods with throw lightning bolts at you.. :laughing:

I carry 1" to 6" drywall screws for emergency situations like bad clips in Halo cans.. :whistling2::laughing:


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> Are you talking about making the hole in the drywall bigger?


Yes just a little bit you may be just too tight.


It is a mother when it is a plaster lath ceiling.:laughing:


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

SteveO. said:


> Contrast lighting makes some great remodel cans that go in with a Phillips. Best remodel cans ever! I put in 11 today in no time with zero cursing or trying to jam the clips. Slide 'me up, use the drill to spin the screws tight and done. Less than a minute per can to put them up and they stay tight forever. I use them exclusively for 4".
> 
> http://www.contrastlighting.com/en/pdf/CA2000.pdf


These _are_ great fixtures. The quality of construction is obvious as soon as you pick 'em up.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

I use a screw driver and linemans to bang em in... Ive put in hundreds this way..In plaster and lath, plaster and wire mesh, sheet rock. as long as the hole you made is nice and snug you shouldnt have a problem. You can however run into problems if you make the hole to big.. When you bang on it to set the feet you will run the risk of pushing the whole can up through the hole.. Unfortunatly ive become somewhat of a pro with halo cut in cans..


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Never had a problem with the Lightolier 1004/1104's. Especially with the addition of the special hole saw kit. :thumbup:


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

B4T said:


> OMG.. a drywall screw.. the ET Gods with throw lightning bolts at you.. :laughing:
> 
> I carry 1" to 6" drywall screws for emergency situations like bad clips in Halo cans.. :whistling2::laughing:


I don't know anyone that would do that..:whistling2::blink::laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

HARRY304E said:


> I don't know anyone that would do that..:whistling2::blink::laughing:


AND admit it.. :thumbup:


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

SteveO. said:


> Contrast lighting makes some great remodel cans that go in with a Phillips. Best remodel cans ever! I put in 11 today in no time with zero cursing or trying to jam the clips. Slide 'me up, use the drill to spin the screws tight and done. Less than a minute per can to put them up and they stay tight forever. I use them exclusively for 4".
> 
> http://www.contrastlighting.com/en/pdf/CA2000.pdf


Yeah i like that..:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

stuiec said:


> These _are_ great fixtures. The quality of construction is obvious as soon as you pick 'em up.


 
and just zip 'em in with one of these. Takes seconds, and only has 177 ft lbs max torque, so its hard to over tighten.:thumbsup:


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

do they make those in five inch and what do they cost with trim and bulb..?


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

captkirk said:


> do they make those in five inch and what do they cost with trim and bulb..?


Steve O could answer that one for you. I am just the installer so far. I'm pretty sure they are more expensive than Halo, but IMO the trims are _much_ nicer.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

captkirk said:


> I use a screw driver and linemans to bang em in... Ive put in hundreds this way..In plaster and lath, plaster and wire mesh, sheet rock. as long as the hole you made is nice and snug you shouldnt have a problem. You can however run into problems if you make the hole to big.. When you bang on it to set the feet you will run the risk of pushing the whole can up through the hole.. Unfortunatly ive become somewhat of a pro with halo cut in cans..


I'm supposed to be there at 9:00am, see you there. I'll tell them I had to bring in a specialist!:thumbup::laughing:


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

Also, if you are partial to the Wagos and NM clips on the Halos, the Contraste will be a letdown. They require connectors and wire nuts.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

captkirk said:


> I use a screw driver and linemans to bang em in... Ive put in hundreds this way..In plaster and lath, plaster and wire mesh, sheet rock. as long as the hole you made is nice and snug you shouldnt have a problem. You can however run into problems if you make the hole to big.. When you bang on it to set the feet you will run the risk of pushing the whole can up through the hole.. Unfortunatly ive become somewhat of a pro with halo cut in cans..



NO way !!!! !!


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## SteveO. (Oct 17, 2011)

HARRY304E said:


> Yeah i like that..:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


They work great and you. Can use them with 1/2' 5/8 and maybe even thicker ceilings if you've got heavy texture on them. Seriously, best cans ever. 



stuiec said:


> and just zip 'em in with one of these. Takes seconds, and only has 177 ft lbs max torque, so its hard to over tighten.:thumbsup:


I use my M12 1/4 driver set on "3" and when the clutch kicks in, they're perfect. :thumbsup:



captkirk said:


> do they make those in five inch and what do they cost with trim and bulb..?


I don't think they have 5", but I'm not positive. I've got to go to the supplier Thursday for more trims and I'll ask. 

For price, they're about $15 for the can and the trims vary by price from about $12 to $25. I bought some brushed nickel gimbals today and they were $25.40 each, I think? You can use them with Par20's or GU10's. They also sell cans for LV but I stay away from those. I got lucky and bought 48 housings from a builder up here who didn't want them for $100 the other day.

Your pricing down there may be different. We get gouged up here.


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## SteveO. (Oct 17, 2011)

stuiec said:


> Also, if you are partial to the Wagos and NM clips on the Halos, the Contraste will be a letdown. They require connectors and wire nuts.


That's the one thing that sucks with these. You need to supply a connector and you've got to make the splices inside. No wagos in these but the JB is nice and big with two, 1/2" knockouts and a 3/8.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

leland said:


> NO way !!!! !!


 tell you what.... next time i get a high hat job ill shoot a little video, you will be surprised.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

captkirk said:


> tell you what.... next time i get a high hat job ill shoot a little video, you will be surprised.




Not really. Those clips are merely a suggestion. :thumbsup:

So long as the electrical connections are correct and proper- no problem.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

HFC- This is the way to do it.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

leland said:


> HFC- This is the way to do it.


 what a butcher that guy is...:no:


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## SteveO. (Oct 17, 2011)

Couple photos of the contrast lighting housings and how they tighten. You can see how they're suitable for various thickness'.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

SteveO. said:


> Couple photos of the contrast lighting housings and how they tighten. You can see how they're suitable for various thickness'.


That looks more like it. This will probably be my last time installing Halo remodel cans. I ended up having to put screws in all the clips.


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## mbednarik (Oct 10, 2011)

screwdriver and linemens. I tap at about a 45 deg angle until the inside tab sets flat with the inside of the can and then tap up, never had a problem.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

SteveO. said:


> Couple photos of the contrast lighting housings and how they tighten. You can see how they're suitable for various thickness'.


Those cans are not IC rated.. do they make one that is?


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

B4T said:


> Those cans are not IC rated.. do they make one that is?


Old work IC?

They _do_ make new work IC


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## SteveO. (Oct 17, 2011)

B4T said:


> Those cans are not IC rated.. do they make one that is?


They make a box for the regular fixture to go up inside but it has to be mounted from above, obviously. I don't believe they make an IC rated can, but I'll try and find out. Their website sucks too, but you could search around and see.


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## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

I only know of one IC retrofit light, the Halo H99ICAT. It's fluorescent though. Comes in 13w and 18w versions. Not dimmable. 

Re the Contrast lights, they are my absolute favourite by a huge margin. Nothing else I've worked on is as quick and easy to throw into a ceiling, with minimal frustration. They also come out easily if you need access to the JB or the ceiling cavity later on. You have to use a connector, yes, but in my opinion that's still better(and faster) than NM clips because you never have to fight the clamp and squeeze it with your needle nose to get it to hold your wires in. Once you have done a few of them you get a rhythm and the lights go up real fast. It is a bit annoying that there aren't push-in connectors already there but at least you get a nice solid connection forever. 

What I generally do with a contrast housing is pop the knockout and stick the connector in, then strip NM and make splices before inserting through the connector. Wrap the fixture wires onto splices and twist marrette...finished. After using these, anything with spring clips looks like it dates back to somewhere around the bronze age. The transformers on their low voltage lights are very high quality too. Have not seen many burned out.

Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


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## SteveO. (Oct 17, 2011)

Vintage Sounds said:


> What I generally do with a contrast housing is pop the knockout and stick the connector in, then strip NM and make splices before inserting through the connector. Wrap the fixture wires onto splices and twist marrette...finished. After using these, anything with spring clips looks like it dates back to somewhere around the bronze age. The transformers on their low voltage lights are very high quality too. Have not seen many burned out.


I do it the exact same way. Works perfectly and is nice and fast.


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Vintage Sounds said:


> I only know of one IC retrofit light, the Halo H99ICAT. It's fluorescent though. Comes in 13w and 18w versions. Not dimmable.


The Lightolier 1004ICR and the 1104ICR are both IC retrofit cans.


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## surf (Jan 17, 2012)

Sometimes they are hard to get the clips in all the way.I normally will take my screwdriver,and push up on clip gently=always works!!!I run into this problem with 4" cans alot,very rare with 5"-6".
goodluck


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## afwxman (Dec 23, 2011)

Alright, kinda new here, but just installed 20 of these on a job the other day. Had a hell of a time getting those damn clips to lock in. Turned out to be blown in insulation under the tab that locks onto the sheetrock. Guy in the attack brushed away the insulation and ta-da. They all locked in like a charm


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

afwxman said:


> Alright, kinda new here, but just installed 20 of these on a job the other day. Had a hell of a time getting those damn clips to lock in. Turned out to be blown in insulation under the tab that locks onto the sheetrock. Guy in the attack brushed away the insulation and ta-da. They all locked in like a charm


I pulled the lights back out and made sure there wasn't any insulation under the clip/tabs. Still wouldn't lock in, had to put screws in them to lock them in place.


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## surf (Jan 17, 2012)

Screws to lock them in place.interesting


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