# Using Holesaws for Metal



## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

I don't have good success using a holesaw for making KO's in steel. 

I have been using a hydraulic KO punch set, but even making the first hole, our Unibit was too dull. 

Tried using a brand new Milwaukee holesaw for a 2 1/2" in Nema 3R box, and killed it fast. 

Any Tips ?


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Wd-40 predrill your pilot but hole. And go slowly.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

Use a plywood jig to keep your oil in place.


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## WhitehouseRT (Aug 20, 2013)

IDEAL 36-314 TKO Carbide Tipped Hole Cutter 6 Piece Master Electrician's Kit


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Bkessler said:


> Wd-40 predrill your pilot but hole. And go slowly.


I like Unibits, but my employer for my "Other Job" only has a dull one, and tells me to use the stinking holesaws !


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

WhitehouseRT said:


> IDEAL 36-314 TKO Carbide Tipped Hole Cutter 6 Piece Master Electrician's Kit


 
$300.00, But that's the right one if you have to use Holesaws.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Wirenuting said:


> Use a plywood jig to keep your oil in place.


I'd have to see a photo of what you mean


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Those uni-bits are garbage for drilling holes in steal.. IMO....

They dull easily and are way over priced.. 

I start out with a 1/4" bit.. then 3/8 and use the punch with slim post and 1/2" KO....


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

B4T said:


> Those uni-bits are garbage for drilling holes in steal.. IMO....
> 
> They dull easily and are way over priced..


Wow. Just wow.


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## HawkShock (Nov 27, 2012)

This is what I have, up to 2", I have to hide it or it disappears.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

B4T said:


> Those uni-bits are garbage for drilling holes in steal.. IMO....
> 
> They dull easily and are way over priced..
> 
> I start out with a 1/4" bit.. then 3/8 and use the punch with slim post and 1/2" KO....


Wut !!!! Worth every cent


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

dronai said:


> Wut !!!! Worth every cent


he still uses a pager

don't listen to him


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

HawkShock said:


> This is what I have, up to 2", I have to hide it or it disappears.


Do those cut clean round holes, or start oversizing like the regular holesaws do ?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

MTW said:


> Wow. Just wow.


I have (7) of them and they all suck when drilling holes in a panel..

WOW.. just WOW..


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

drspec said:


> he still uses a pager
> 
> don't listen to him


Oh you mean the paging devise that has NEVER missed a call and even worked 100% during superstorm Sandy...

Even works is the basement of a commercial building.. 

Make all the jokes you want.. works 100% of the time when customers need to reach me NOW.. :thumbsup:


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

B4T said:


> I have (7) of them and they all suck when drilling holes in a panel..
> 
> WOW.. just WOW..


Sorry, disagree

I once had my helper ruin a $56. dollar 1" Unibit, drilling Stainless Steel. Probably could have pulled it off by drilling slow rpms using cutting oil.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> I have (7) of them and they all suck when drilling holes in a panel..
> 
> WOW.. just WOW..


Operator error for sure.

Most likely you overheated them and yes now they are junk.


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## HawkShock (Nov 27, 2012)

dronai said:


> Do those cut clean round holes, or start oversizing like the regular holesaws do ?


They cut good. The arbor is the same arbor from the hole saw kits. The 1/2 and 3/4 arbor is effective, but it jams up. I use mine any time I can. I even use it to blast a hole for the ko set if I need a bigger hole. I use a little cutting oil usually, but it does fine without.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

B4T said:


> Oh you mean the paging devise that has NEVER missed a call and even worked 100% during superstorm Sandy...
> 
> Even works is the basement of a commercial building..
> 
> Make all the jokes you want.. works 100% of the time when customers need to reach me NOW.. :thumbsup:


sometimes I laugh at you 

sometimes I feel sorry for you

with that remark Im not sure which way I should go


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

I always preach the carbide cutters. Unibits are nice and they have their place but I don't believe they're the best option for new holes. My method is center punch, 5/32 pilot hole, 1/2 or 3/4 carbide, KO punch. I've been doing it this way for a while and make a ton of holes every day. Jobber bits are super cheap (or free depending where you work), and you can easily get a couple years out of a carbide bit if you take care of it


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## HawkShock (Nov 27, 2012)

B4T said:


> Make all the jokes you want.. works 100% of the time when customers need to reach me NOW.. :thumbsup:


Now, like as soon as you can find a land line to get back to them? NOW, really doesn't mean now, it means as soon as I get to a phone. Cellphones on the other hand, "now" really is NOW. Unless you are in the basement, then "NOW" is as soon as you climb the stairs.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

ponyboy said:


> I always preach the carbide cutters. Unibits are nice and they have their place but I don't believe they're the best option for new holes. My method is center punch, 5/32 pilot hole, 1/2 or 3/4 carbide, KO punch. I've been doing it this way for a while and make a ton of holes every day. Jobber bits are super cheap (or free depending where you work), and you can easily get a couple years out of a carbide bit if you take care of it


From an in house guy that has unlimited time and no concern for what things cost. :jester:


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

drspec said:


> sometimes I laugh at you
> 
> sometimes I feel sorry for you
> 
> with that remark Im not sure which way I should go


B4T is opinionated, and stubborn like a mule, but when he was in the hospital, it was like Hax's thread as far as support. 

The forum wasn't the same without him. He likes to take the opposite stance on a lot of topics here. Maybe it's just to rile up some, or maybe he really believes he's right. :blink:


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

BBQ said:


> From an in house guy that has unlimited time and no concern for what things cost. :jester:


Hey now I bought my first Lenox carbide set on my own dime because everyone else was using hole saws and step bits. Now we all rock the carbides.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

ponyboy said:


> I always preach the carbide cutters. Unibits are nice and they have their place but I don't believe they're the best option for new holes. My method is center punch, 5/32 pilot hole, 1/2 or 3/4 carbide, KO punch. I've been doing it this way for a while and make a ton of holes every day. Jobber bits are super cheap (or free depending where you work), and you can easily get a couple years out of a carbide bit if you take care of it


I will probably just get the 1/2" and, or 3/4" Carbide to start the KO punch.

** Unibits are great for PVC boxes


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

ponyboy said:


> Hey now I bought my first Lenox carbide set on my own dime because everyone else was using hole saws and step bits. Now we all rock the carbides.


Well that sucks, my foot tastes terrible. :laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

drspec said:


> sometimes I laugh at you
> 
> sometimes I feel sorry for you
> 
> with that remark Im not sure which way I should go


Too bad facts blind any common sense you might have kicking around.. :no::no:


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

dronai said:


> I will probably just get the 1/2" and, or 3/4" Carbide to start the KO punch. ** Unibits are great for PVC boxes


Yes they work great for PVC. The carbides on the other hand suck for PVC, every time I get lazy and use them on a PVC enclosure I curse myself. 

Lenox makes a nice set for 1/2-1" with a couple arbors and spare pilot bits. IIRC it's around 80 bucks. Totally worth it. If you ever run 4" you'll want that 1" bit for the larger stud size required for 4" and above


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> Too bad facts blind any common sense you might have kicking around.. :no::no:


You mean he fact that many of us drill 100s of holes with unibits without destroying them?:laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

dronai said:


> B4T is opinionated, and stubborn like a mule, but when he was in the hospital, it was like Hax's thread as far as support.
> 
> The forum wasn't the same without him. He likes to take the opposite stance on a lot of topics here. Maybe it's just to rile up some, or maybe he really believes he's right. :blink:


I'm posting my opinion about what works for me.. you can either use the advice or laugh at it.. 

If all people thought the same way this would be a very boring place....

If I find a system that works well for me in all the things I need.. I stick with it.. laugh all you want.. enjoy yourself.. :thumbsup:

It is never about right or wrong.. that is why it is called an *opinion*..


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

dronai said:


> I'd have to see a photo of what you mean


It's a hole in plywood,, the same size as the hole your drilling. 
Clamp it to the metal, and add a little oil and drill slow.. Works great for SS and also for making an existing hole larger. 

It also works real good on doors. I've had to redrill doors that already had a hole, his is how you do it as you except clamp a regular piece of plywood on the back side. It will stop the door from blowing out..


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

BBQ said:


> You mean he fact that many of us drill 100s of holes with unibits without destroying them?:laughing:


Good for you.. I like using a hydraulic hole punch every time I can.. :thumbsup:


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

BBQ said:


> You mean he fact that many of us drill 100s of holes with unibits without destroying them?:laughing:


Yup. Made at least 16 holes with a unibit today. Only one I have ever smoked was drilling out stainless with one when I was an apprentice. :laughing: Holesaws suck compared to a uni-bit. 

Plus, pagers are stupid, because if somebody isn't willing to leave a voicemail, then they are just going to call the next company from google or the phonebook anyway.

ETA: Paging also uses the same technology as texting, so if a page goes through, then a text should as well. Soooo, welcome to 2003.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

ponyboy said:


> Yes they work great for PVC. The carbides on the other hand suck for PVC, every time I get lazy and use them on a PVC enclosure I curse myself.
> 
> Lenox makes a nice set for 1/2-1" with a couple arbors and spare pilot bits. IIRC it's around 80 bucks. Totally worth it. If you ever run 4" you'll want that 1" bit for the larger stud size required for 4" and above


Hey PB, what do use to drill small holes (1/4" and less) in all of the steel around your plant ? Some of that steel seems like it's heat treated, and takes forever to drill. Usually we are mounting strut, or a mounting bracket to it.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> Good for you.. I like using a hydraulic hole punch every time I can.. :thumbsup:


So I guess you have a C frame for that punch so you do not have drill hole first?


:lol::lol:


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## LARMGUY (Aug 22, 2010)

WD-40 no, cutting oil, yes.

Never use a Unibit to start a hole. I have invested $75 in the industrial grade drill bits and index. I have also invested in the Drill Doctor sharpener. The only bits I buy now are when my guys break them.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Plus, pagers are stupid, because if somebody isn't willing to leave a voicemail, then they are just going to call the next company from google or the phonebook anyway.
> 
> ETA: Paging also uses the same technology as texting, so if a page goes through, then a text should as well. Soooo, welcome to 2003.


My pager is for existing customers only.. I carry it 24/7.. 365 for a few accounts that need to be able to get me NOW...


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## SteveBayshore (Apr 7, 2013)

We use the TiN coated unibits to drill in 1/4" and 1/2" steel plate all the time. The 5/16" step is the perfect pilot hole for a 3/8" tap and the next step takes the burr off just enough to make the tap easier to start. With a little oil, they last quite a while.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

B4T said:


> Good for you.. I like using a hydraulic hole punch every time I can.. :thumbsup:


Hydraulic KO set is heavy, a uni-bit is not, and plus, who the f*ck uses a hydraulic KO set on 1/2 and 3/4" KOs anyway? I also use the uni-bit on metal studs when I can't fit a metal stud punch in, like today. F*ckers rocked both sides of the studs before we had boxed/wired them, so I had to drill the top plate, cut in steel switch boxes, fish mc, and use Madison straps. My god I hate Madison straps.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

BBQ said:


> So I guess you have a C frame for that punch so you do not have drill hole first?
> 
> 
> :lol::lol:


Nope.. never had a use for one.. just a Grennlee 2" max hole punch is what I roll with..


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

dronai said:


> Hey PB, what do use to drill small holes (1/4" and less) in all of the steel around your plant ? Some of that steel seems like it's heat treated, and takes forever to drill. Usually we are mounting strut, or a mounting bracket to it.


I get the real nice coated self drilling screws for mounting stuff to steel. No pilot hole is necessary with these on all our columns and steel racking. I also carry a box of 5/32 bits with me which is the proper size for pilot holes for our typical screw. All the wash bays are SS so i predrill for that or I'll weld strut to it


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Hydraulic KO set is heavy, a uni-bit is not, and plus, who the f*ck uses a hydraulic KO set on 1/2 and 3/4" KOs anyway? I also use the uni-bit on metal studs when I can't fit a metal stud punch in, like today. F*ckers rocked both sides of the studs before we had boxed/wired them, so I had to drill the top plate, cut in steel switch boxes, fish mc, and use Madison straps. My god I hate Madison straps.


You are using what is best for you.. I am doing the same thing..

What makes one method right and the other one wrong.. :blink::blink:


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

B4T said:


> You are using what is best for you.. I am doing the same thing..
> 
> What makes one method right and the other one wrong.. :blink::blink:


Because, of course, my opinion is the correct one. You haven't figured that out yet? :whistling2:



:laughing::laughing:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> Nope.. never had a use for one.. just a Grennlee 2" max hole punch is what I roll with..


So you have to make a hole first right?


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I have to make dozens of holes with a unibit in Hoffman enclosures and I always use TagMagic to cool the bit. Yeah, I know. :nerd:


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

B4T said:


> I'm posting my opinion about what works for me.. you can either use the advice or laugh at it..
> 
> If all people thought the same way this would be a very boring place....
> 
> ...


I have no problem with that. You know I'm just busting your nuts :laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

BBQ said:


> So you have to make a hole first right?


I already posted that.. 1/4".. then 3/8.. less that a minute... total time...


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

dronai said:


> I have no problem with that. You know I'm just busting your nuts :laughing:


Sure I do.. this IS the Internet..


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

B4T said:


> I already posted that.. 1/4".. then 3/8.. less that a minute... total time...


Does your Greenlee set have the larger stud for the bigger KOs? Like 3/4"? With a 7/8" uni-bit you can zip in your 1/2" KOs with one shot, or use it to blast the 3/4" hole for the KO stud to fit through to punch larger sizes. Just sayin'


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## seabee41 (Dec 21, 2010)

HawkShock said:


> This is what I have, up to 2", I have to hide it or it disappears.


Lenox? And where can I acquire that set


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

LARMGUY said:


> WD-40 no, cutting oil, yes.
> 
> Never use a Unibit to start a hole. I have invested $75 in the industrial grade drill bits and index. I have also invested in the Drill Doctor sharpener. The only bits I buy now are when my guys break them.


 That grade of bits are a little different than the ones I found at Home Depot $10 bin :laughing:



SteveBayshore said:


> We use the TiN coated unibits to drill in 1/4" and 1/2" steel plate all the time. The 5/16" step is the perfect pilot hole for a 3/8" tap and the next step takes the burr off just enough to make the tap easier to start. With a little oil, they last quite a while.


 Have to look into that


MTW said:


> I have to make dozens of holes with a unibit in Hoffman enclosures and I always use TagMagic to cool the bit. Yeah, I know. :nerd:


 Yeah, I get that duty a lot too :laughing:


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

B4T said:


> Those uni-bits are garbage for drilling holes in steal.. IMO.... They dull easily and are way over priced.. I start out with a 1/4" bit.. then 3/8 and use the punch with slim post and 1/2" KO....


This is the guy that says using a tick tester and a dmm is to time consuming.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

ponyboy said:


> I get the real nice coated self drilling screws for mounting stuff to steel. No pilot hole is necessary with these on all our columns and steel racking. I also carry a box of 5/32 bits with me which is the proper size for pilot holes for our typical screw. All the wash bays are SS so i predrill for that or I'll weld strut to it


I saw someone used what looked like a Tex screw on this rail I was drilling. I couldn't believe it would stay sharp through that thick of plate !


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## HawkShock (Nov 27, 2012)

seabee41 said:


> Lenox? And where can I acquire that set


Amazon, or various internets. I got mine at the supply house for just as cheap as the internets.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Does your Greenlee set have the larger stud for the bigger KOs? Like 3/4"? With a 7/8" uni-bit you can zip in your 1/2" KOs with one shot, or use it to blast the 3/4" hole for the KO stud to fit through to punch larger sizes. Just sayin'


Yes.. it has a slim stud for 1/2" only.. then I switch over to the full size for what ever size hole I need...

One more thing.. the hole punch makes a clean hole.. there is no "lip" on the other side like a uni-bit gives you..


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> This is the guy that says using a tick tester and a dmm is to time consuming.


NO.. this is the guy that says using *TWO *different testers to see if a wire is live is a waste of time...


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

B4T said:


> Yes.. it has a slim stud for 1/2" only.. then I switch over to the full size for what ever size hole I need... One more thing.. the hole punch makes a clean hole.. there is no "lip" on the other side like a uni-bit gives you..


Go 90% of the way through in one direction with the uni-bit, then drill the last 10% from the other side. When you can it gives a perfect KO.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

LARMGUY said:


> WD-40 no, cutting oil, yes.


Or lemonade, or water or anything that keeps it cool.



> Never use a Unibit to start a hole.


:001_huh:

Well that makes it worthless in my opinion. 

As an example, I had to put about 70 - 1/2" KOs in a trough.

I used 7/8" uni bit in a hole hawg set on low RPM, the trough was on the floor, I put all my weight on the drill. The uni bit literally ripped through the metal. After each hole I dipped the bit in a cup of snow I brought in.

70 clean and fast holes later the uni-bit was still perfect.


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

dronai said:


> I saw someone used what looked like a Tex screw on this rail I was drilling. I couldn't believe it would stay sharp through that thick of plate !


I use these ITW Buildex tek screws. They are case hardened and beefy as hell


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Are we actually justifying the use of unibits? For real? :blink:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

MTW said:


> Are we actually justifying the use of unibits? For real? :blink:


Yeah, big surprise who the hold out is. :laughing:


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

ponyboy said:


> I use these ITW Buildex tek screws. They are case hardened and beefy as hell
> 
> View attachment 30943


 
Yep, that's the one !! I need a ****load of those !


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## Chris1971 (Dec 27, 2010)

dronai said:


> I don't have good success using a holesaw for making KO's in steel.
> 
> I have been using a hydraulic KO punch set, but even making the first hole, our Unibit was too dull.
> 
> ...


Try drilling at a slower speed and oil the bit while drilling. Are you drilling stainless? Also try carbide bits.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Go 90% of the way through in one direction with the uni-bit, then drill the last 10% from the other side. When you can it gives a perfect KO.


Punching holes in a panel and there is no way of going to the "other side"...


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

dronai said:


> Yep, that's the one !! I need a ****load of those !


Yessir get yourself a pile of those and some 5/32 bits and there's not much you can't fasten to


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## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

You guys must be using cheap bits or something I never had issues with unibits just push a little and let the steel fly. Rarely even need cutting oil. Best hole making tool ever invented.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Chris1971 said:


> Try drilling at a slower speed and oil the bit while drilling. Are you drilling stainless? Also try carbide bits.


Read from the beginning



Goldagain said:


> You guys must be using cheap bits or something I never had issues with unibits just push a little and let the steel fly. Rarely even need cutting oil. Best hole making tool ever invented.


We have resolved that issue, you have to read through from the beginning. 

Try drilling case hardened 1/4" plate, or an I beam with a standard drill bit


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

BBQ said:


> Yeah, big surprise who the hold out is. :laughing:


Shocking. :laughing:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

dronai said:


> Read from the beginning
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I beams drill easy, I have run standard hole saws through them.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

Greenlee carbide cutter and then hydraulic hole punch is the way I roll. 7/8" for everything up to 2½" and 1" for everything on up. They don't go jabbing into your wires either as they have a stop.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

wendon said:


> Greenlee carbide cutter and then hydraulic hole punch is the way I roll. 7/8" for everything up to 2½" and 1" for everything on up. They don't go jabbing into your wires either as they have a stop.


That is completely wrong according to the posters on this thread.. :whistling2:


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

BBQ said:


> I beams drill easy, I have run standard hole saws through them.


 I would have thought you would need a cutting torch for that.


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## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

dronai said:


> I would have thought you would need a cutting torch for that.


There pretty soft, you can run a self tapper in one pretty easy.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

wendon said:


> Greenlee carbide cutter and then hydraulic hole punch is the way I roll. 7/8" for everything up to 2½" and 1" for everything on up. They don't go jabbing into your wires either as they have a stop.


Yep



B4T said:


> That is completely wrong according to the posters on this thread.. :whistling2:


I think this is the best agreed method. Carbide for the starter hole, then a punch set. Unibit for smaller holes


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

1/4" rod in the arbor instead of a pilot bit. Drill 1/4" pilot hole first. Higher tooth count saws help too.


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

Jlarson said:


> 1/4" rod in the arbor instead of a pilot bit. Drill 1/4" pilot hole first.


What does this do?? I don't think I've ever seen that done


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## 8V71 (Dec 23, 2011)

ponyboy said:


> What does this do?? I don't think I've ever seen that done


It keeps the pilot hole from getting too big. That's what makes hole saws cut so crappy and oversized.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

On thin stuff the pilot bit likes to wallow the pilot hole then the saw goes wide and tears up the metal.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Having a wider variety of sizes helps too, the closer you can get to the size of the connector the better.


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## Bend 2 Pipes (Nov 2, 2013)

Jlarson said:


> 1/4" rod in the arbor instead of a pilot bit. Drill 1/4" pilot hole first. Higher tooth count saws help too.


Not a bad idea. 

I think many guys run the drill motor too fast when using hole saws. For a normal panel can low speed and medium-heavy pressure works best for me.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

Bend 2 Pipes said:


> Not a bad idea.
> 
> I think many guys* run the drill motor too fast when using hole saws*. For a normal panel can low speed and medium-heavy pressure works best for me.


bingo, that's what dulls the hole-saw real fast, that and sheetrock. When drilling sheetrock hole, use reverse to save cutting teeth on hole-saw.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Had to change my avatar was too gay !


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

dronai said:


> I don't have good success using a holesaw for making KO's in steel.
> 
> I have been using a hydraulic KO punch set, but even making the first hole, our Unibit was too dull.
> 
> ...


Stuff the hole saw with a rag and a lot of cutting oil and just drill. The oil will be slung to the metal.


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## Awg-Dawg (Jan 23, 2007)

dronai said:


> was too gay !


 
What level of gay were you aiming for?


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Awg-Dawg said:


> What level of gay were you aiming for?


 That cat was getting to me :laughing:


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

RIVETER said:


> Stuff the hole saw with a rag and a lot of cutting oil and just drill. The oil will be slung to the metal.


 
You were in that plant for years, is that what you used ?


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

dronai said:


> You were in that plant for years, is that what you used ?


Yes, and it worked well for stainless.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

RIVETER said:


> Yes, and it worked well for stainless.


 No carbide for you ? Just a basic holesaw yes ? A lot of guys use them, I just think there so slow. Maybe it's the cutting oil.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

HawkShock said:


> Amazon, or various internets. I got mine at the supply house for just as cheap as the internets.


I got a set a month or so ago from Amazon for $182.00
I have a Prime subscription so the 2-day shipping was free.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

I drilled all these pilot holes with a unibit and then used a ko set. That was a year ago and I still have the same unibit and it still drills just fine.


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## HawkShock (Nov 27, 2012)

Little-Lectric said:


> I got a set a month or so ago from Amazon for $182.00
> I have a Prime subscription so the 2-day shipping was free.


Think I spent bout the same.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Awg-Dawg said:


> What level of gay were you aiming for?


Licking beads of sweat off a another mans back...


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## CW. Electric (Nov 5, 2013)

I've used a hole saw on 1/4 inch steel ibeam, use lots of cutting fluid or waxed lubricant.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

CW. Electric said:


> I've used a hole saw on 1/4 inch steel ibeam, use lots of cutting fluid or waxed lubricant.


I just get someone to gas axe a hole for me for that stuff if theyre available but the carbide holesaws work ok.


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## CW. Electric (Nov 5, 2013)

I have used a torch to do it, just using that as an example. I usually just use a mag drill, works like a dream!


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## 8V71 (Dec 23, 2011)

sparky970 said:


> I drilled all these pilot holes with a unibit and then used a ko set. That was a year ago and I still have the same unibit and it still drills just fine.


Nice looking work!

A high quality tool + not letting it overheat or rub without cutting = long life. Pretty much true for any cutting tool.


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## aftershockews (Dec 22, 2012)

I start with one of these



Then use one of these



And finish up with this.


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

even the slower speed on cordless drill is often too fast for whole saw and unibits. i saw of lot of electrician driving them at full speed and cry they are pieces of junk 
does anybody actually read the unibits speed chart and how to use them.
i use cheap automationdirect unibits and they last at least 100-200 holes in metal (stainless does kill them)


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## Bend 2 Pipes (Nov 2, 2013)

Usually the pilot bit works better at high speed but the hole saw is meant for low speed. It never hurts to put a fender washer over the bit so it won't grab and snap the pilot when you get through . My shop won't pony up for unibits but 7/8" hole saws and pilot bits are considered disposable.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Bend 2 Pipes said:


> Usually the pilot bit works better at high speed


For the first few holes but speed makes heat, heat takes the temper out of the tip and once that happens the bit is junk.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy)


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## KGN742003 (Apr 23, 2012)

dronai said:


> I saw someone used what looked like a Tex screw on this rail I was drilling. I couldn't believe it would stay sharp through that thick of plate !


Look for "T3"s at Fasteners or ask for column screws. You can get them in variable lengths on the drill bit side and they will tap into pretty much anything shallower than that drill bit.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

*Sharpen it*

I have used the same unibit for years, just run a file on the flats to sharpen them. mine came with sharpening instructions.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Great thread ! Lots of good info here. Thanks to all.


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## ZZDoug (Apr 30, 2008)

just the cowboy said:


> I have used the same unibit for years, just run a file on the flats to sharpen them. mine came with sharpening instructions.



What brand? Never seen actual instructions for this. And because the actual Unibit brand doesn't have flats, it's more of a rounded surface. Others like the Greenlee brand do have flats, I've always thought these were the only type practical to sharpen, and even then they never seem as good as when new.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

My unibits get ground, a file just skates off them.


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## Ozzy1990 (Jan 24, 2013)

Try drilling these....


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## aftershockews (Dec 22, 2012)

Ozzy1990 said:


> Try drilling these....
> 
> View attachment 30980


Why? Looks like they have already been drilled.


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## Deep Cover (Dec 8, 2012)

I have a love hate relationship with unibits. I love to use them, but I hate the burns they leave on my arm.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Deep Cover said:


> I have a love hate relationship with unibits. I love to use them, but I hate the burns they leave on my arm.


Man up. :laughing:


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## Deep Cover (Dec 8, 2012)

It's not the pain, but it looks like I skipped work and was shooting heroin all day.


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## Ozzy1990 (Jan 24, 2013)

aftershockews said:


> Why? Looks like they have already been drilled.


Sadly the holes didn't magically appear...


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Ozzy1990 said:


> Sadly the holes didn't magically appear...


 And the steel beam behind your box, looks like it would be a bitch to drill too.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

BTW, I think the quality of Milwaukee hole saws has gone down a lot.


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## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

dronai said:


> I don't have good success using a holesaw for making KO's in steel.
> 
> I have been using a hydraulic KO punch set, but even making the first hole, our Unibit was too dull.
> 
> ...


Drill on low speed. Push hard and set clutch. Cooling agents for the holesaw is best but not always applicable. That's what I do. Actually I'd rather use holesaw a than anything else. I was taught with them.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> BTW, I think the quality of Milwaukee hole saws has gone down a lot.


I like lenox.


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