# 12 volt LED gimble / eyeball 4”



## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

if they need to stay 12v, look into RV or boat light fixtures. Use either a large rectifier near the transformers or smaller individual ones near the lights.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

I see 14-2 all over -- presumably to each light.

So why are you staying with 12 VAC?

Get rid of the transformers// power supplies and just run 120VAC LED fixtures.

His ampacity must be through the roof.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

telsa said:


> I see 14-2 all over -- presumably to each light.
> 
> So why are you staying with 12 VAC?
> 
> ...


There are 120 v gimbaled 4" led kits at Home Depot that are close to wafer's but not quite as shallow. Wafer's are 1/2" thick, the HD gimbaled trims are more like 3/4" thick or maybe even a bit more. Also have a switch built in to change color levels of the led. This is a good idea you have Telsa.


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## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

That’s the way I’ve been leaning from the beginning but the customer just really wanted to keep those transformers. I think a 4” gimbal light aiming at the walls is a perfect solution. 

I did however just to see pulled the light off of the connector to a wafer light I installed recently. Turns out is about 40-50 volts going to the light. So unless I plan to daisy chain transformers to get the voltage I want I’m stuck with doing it this way. 


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

https://www.lampsplus.com/products/...ge_trim/[email protected]@@/voltage_low-voltage-12v/


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

If you have 14-2 going to those fixtures you are ****ing crazy to not eliminate those trannys. Just give them some bull**** line about how inefficient they are.


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## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

sbrn33 said:


> If you have 14-2 going to those fixtures you are ****ing crazy to not eliminate those trannys. Just give them some bull**** line about how inefficient they are.




I did not wire the house but I know of the electrician who did. He was notorious for some crazy electrical. Very ocd but crazy. So I wouldn’t doubt they have individual lines going to each light but possibly jumped from a few too. 


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I would think twice about changing to line voltage unless I could see the wiring end to end, what if they have flying splices etc. stuff that's OK with 12V but not OK with 120V.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Flying splices are hard to believe with this OCD player. 

He didn't need them. It was a fresh build.

And obviously, money was not an issue. :smile:


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I'm of the opinion that flying splices are not legal no matter the voltage level . 
It's been years since I looked it up though.


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## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

macmikeman said:


> I'm of the opinion that flying splices are not legal no matter the voltage level .
> 
> It's been years since I looked it up though.




Flying splices are legal under 25 volts. But I try to avoid them unless I absolutely have to. But I mean that’s why we can install low voltage in backless boxes like the Arlington LVN1 or LV1 because we don’t have to splice in a box protected. Stupidly the splices aren’t even required to be accessible. 


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

macmikeman said:


> I'm of the opinion that flying splices are not legal no matter the voltage level .
> It's been years since I looked it up though.


Fire alarm they are not allowed, but low voltage they are.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I make flying splices with speaker wiring, I'll extend it with a western union splice covered with heat shrink and never feel the least bit hack, or skin the cable midspan and make a tee splice.


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