# Floating Dock



## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

I have a project coming soon to wire a floating dock. I already have a 3/4" PVC conduit stubbed up at the fixed pier. (The pier anchors the bridge and dock to the shoreline). Its a fresh water lake. Has anyone done a job like this? They also want a 4 way switch loop for the (house/cabana/pier/dock). I have never wired a dock before and I am looking for some ideas. The water level can and will change, so I will need some flexible joints at key areas. I am thinking cable would be the easiest, or PVC and Sealtight, (FMC). Thanks John


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## starsailor803 (Jun 10, 2009)

PVC and Sealtight should be fine. Leave just enough slack for areas that might pivot.

http://apps.leg.wa.gov/WAC/default.aspx?cite=296-46B-555


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I would use 4/w T/L and SO cord incase there is a storm coming and you want to disconnect in a hurry.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

Black4Truck said:


> I would use 4/w T/L and SO cord incase there is a storm coming and you want to disconnect in a hurry.


SOW is what I hope the AHJ will allow. Then I can make large drip loops at the moving sections. If he will, I will only use conduit on the dock and permanently built structures. Of course I will use PVC for a single stub up to the dock level. Mount Bell boxes on support beams for recepts and lighting. I am thinking EMT on the dock for appearance, since PVC sags so much. I also will use minnies (Mineralac Straps) as the dock structural beams are not very wide. I will be keeping my fingers crossed on the SOW cable. I bet he will not allow it.

I did not think most of you would touch this thread. Thanks for the TWO people that did..........John


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## joe cool (Jun 4, 2009)

I wired up a friend's dock maybe two years ago. The job was in a rural farm area and wasn't permitted / inspected so I don't know if you can get away with this. Had we sought permits they probably would have wanted us to run overhead power, something the owner was totally opposed to. But here's how we did it, in case it helps:
We ran rigid through the levee (easier said than done) to a disconnect in a watertight J-box on the concrete pad that supports the top of the pivoting gangway. Then a short section of watertight flex to get onto the gangway, and UV resistant PVC running the length of the gangway down to the dock. There I used a small coil of watertight flex to take into account for the way the bottom (non-fixed) end of the gangway rolls along the dock as the river level changes. The flex sits in a little coil right underneath the bottom of the gangway and doesn't pose a trip hazard. The coil acts like a spring and stretches when the river is high, compresses when the river is low. The dock was all wired in UV resistant PVC. The stuff I used was thick-walled and well supported, no sagging issues so far.
Drilling / pounding the rigid through the levee was hell. Then we had to do it again for water pipe. Good luck, sounds like a nice place to work.


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## F & F Electric (Jun 9, 2009)

*Docks*

I have done 3 very large docks here in NY on a small lake. The lake (landowners) association required me to not only get a permit but an inspection when i was done. However the docks i did were stationary and anchored to a very large breakwall. So i only ran into a moving situation with a few small things like lifts and such. Everything was ran in PVC (3/4) with 3/4 liquidtight. There not easy to do especially when you get into lighting on the bottoms on the top decks and they want a 4 way setup near each boat and a switch before you even get to the dock and not to mention one in the house that is 200 ft away...planning played a huge roll in the wire runs. :blink:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I agree.. PVC sags and looks like  after a few months in the heat.

EMT will rust out in a few years. I would use AL RMC with compression connectors unless you can switch over to a short piece of PVC


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## ralph (Apr 6, 2008)

the sow cable sounds like the same stuff I just used last year. It s rated for various extremes if it is. Locomotive cable is what I kept calling it, even though its probably not the proper term. I used strain reliefs on it .
Lots of stainless hardware $$


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

95% of the houses I wire I also have to wire the boat dock. (Lake community) I use PVC to sleeve the drops, if you strap it properly, it won't sag. Also, I have done a few docks that were floaters, and the key is, whatever method you use to run your feeder from the stationary dock, to the gangplank, and then to the floater, take into account water level fluctuation. There will be droughts, and there will be floods, so the lake level will fluctuate. Leave enough slack for the walkway to pivot without stretching or pinching the cable. I generally run either UF or direct burial to the dock, (Ran in PVC the whole way, of course) and when I make the transition to the gangplank, I use a female and change to LT, and then when back on the floater, back to PVC. On another note, on the stationary dock, if any junctions or switches or receptacles are installed, make sure they are above flood level. Around here full pond is 795' ASL and flood is 800' ASL. (800' ASL is the elevation of the dam spillway) So, when I install anything, I have to take into account the lake level can rise 5' above regular full level in the event of a flood. Big thing, check with local AHJ as to what they require. Here, one side of the lake is Franklin County, and other side is Bedford County. On a dock, both require two totally different methods. Good luck and enjoy the water!!


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## vinster888 (May 3, 2009)

i have actually left a 360 deg. loop at the top and bottom of the floating sections. with the carflex ma in a pvc fa the conduit can be separated for pulling and servicing. :thumbsup:


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

Thanks everyone. I plan to email the AHJ today. As we all know he is the only one that I have to please. The job will be permitted and inspected. The liability on this job could be serious issue. I will cover all bases. Thanks again.


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## TxElectrician (May 19, 2008)

We wire quite a few docks every year, most are on a lake that may fluctuate as much as 40' in a year. Right now the lake is over 27' low.

We install a 4c seow cable with a weatherproof pin and sleeve connector at the dock. Allows for a speedy disconnect when the rise comes. It also lets you add additional "cords" as required.

A little pricy though, bought a 60A set up this week, close to $500.00 for the pair.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

It looks like the inspector is going to allow the SOW after all. He has not said yes, but he has not said no either. I told him that was what I wanted to use in my email yesterday. He may have overlooked my comment regarding the SOW? I hope not.
He told me he would do a courtesy inspection to go over my plans. Seems like a real nice guy. Helpful. So are you guys. Thanks John


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## ds43787 (Aug 7, 2010)

*Floating dock Electrical*

After years of wiring floating docks on a lake with ever changing water levels we have always used conduit down to the point two feet above the highest water level (in our case 722' MSL), and then SOEW 4/4, with a 50amp GFCI breaker on at the shore panel. About 90 % do just fine and the 10% that don't is what I have a problem with. It's a constant problem especially if you powered up someone else's dock wiring job. We have intermittant tripping of the GFCI breaker for many unknown reasons. The only way is to inspect, and/or re-wire a dock, or replace the SOEW cable, and possibly even the GFCI breaker. This is very expensive, and most want us to replace the GFCI Breaker with a regular 2-pole 50amp breaker. This solves the problem but I don't want the liability. I usually refuse the change out costing me a customer. The shore and lake bottom below are covered with big rocks constantly causing a cable tear / break. I have seen cables still energized with the phase wires exposed in the water. I usually recommend a change of breakers to GFCI. I wish they made a remote controlled GFCI so that when it goes it can be reset from the dock and not have to crawl / climb up a hill or cliff to the house panel to reset it. Being that it is intermittent is not a likely safety hazard, but more likely a bad weather day that has caused a trip. Is there such a thing?


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## danickstr (Mar 21, 2010)

my issue with sealtite is that in harsh areas (like docks) it rusts on the inside making wire changes difficult or impossible


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## Mike_586 (Mar 24, 2009)

I know very few guys down south ever see it, but that it is occasionaly used in industry. Up here in those types of situations, Tek90 would be the first thing that comes to mind for harsh conditions, but that's also because its so readily available and renowned for its toughness.

I took a quick look online and it seems there are some that are now are both CSA and UL listed. i.e. Norteck cable.


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

John Valdes said:


> SOW is what I hope the AHJ will allow. Then I can make large drip loops at the moving sections. If he will, I will only use conduit on the dock and permanently built structures. Of course I will use PVC for a single stub up to the dock level. Mount Bell boxes on support beams for recepts and lighting. I am thinking EMT on the dock for appearance, since PVC sags so much. I also will use minnies (Mineralac Straps) as the dock structural beams are not very wide. I will be keeping my fingers crossed on the SOW cable. I bet he will not allow it.
> 
> I did not think most of you would touch this thread. Thanks for the TWO people that did..........John


 they probaly did not "touch" this thread because you are a smart ass


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## robnj772 (Jan 15, 2008)

danickstr said:


> my issue with sealtite is that in harsh areas (like docks) it rusts on the inside making wire changes difficult or impossible


 
Which is why I only ever use PVC and liquidtight for dock/marina work. Also only use stainless steel screws. Around here with the salt air if it isn't plastic,it won't be there in 6 months.


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## hotwire1955 (Jan 27, 2009)

robnj772 said:


> Which is why I only ever use PVC and liquidtight for dock/marina work. Also only use stainless steel screws. Around here with the salt air if it isn't plastic,it won't be there in 6 months.


 I think the job is done, op was 6/2009


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## Wingnut (Jan 31, 2010)

I think 553 II applies


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