# Silicone Spray vs. White Lithium Grease



## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

White lithium is what we use on chains in the conveyor dept I think. I tried it on my tools once. It makes dust stick, I didn't like it at all.

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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Silicone spray for mechanical things of a smaller nature like inside padlocks. 

Grease for parts with a good size surface area like hinges, lock mechanisms, or something similar.

For stuck tools I use a dip kerosene or a spray of liquid wrench.

For finer tools or nail / staple guns vegetable oil.


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

Best thing I found for loosening up new Linesmens and side cutters is Hilti Spray Lubricant...

https://www.hilti.ca/direct-fastening/accessories/miscellaneous/308976

Super rusted ones need some brake kleen, then oiled, then hilti spray... I don't use WD-40 on them at all, except maybe cleaning if I'm out of Brake Kleen..

Really badly rusted I use Kroil..

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Apprentices that don't know the difference on which side of the linesmen to use as a "hammer" can ruin a good pair in no time..


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Silicone spray is good because it doesn't collect dust too much, it usually won't swell or soften rubber or plastic, and it is holds up to water a little better than oil based products. Silicone grease is messier but much harder to rinse off. Either one, if it gets into wood or fabric it's hard to get out. 

To loosen rusted stuff, I use the same things MechDVR uses.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Right lubricate for the job, use the wrong lube and you can damage parts and/or void warranty.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> Silicone spray is good because it doesn't collect dust too much, it usually won't swell or soften rubber or plastic, and it is holds up to water a little better than oil based products. Silicone grease is messier but much harder to rinse off. Either one, if it gets into wood or fabric it's hard to get out.
> 
> To loosen rusted stuff, I use the same things MechDVR uses.


Working in and around saltwater you learn quickly to free up rusted or corroded items or spend a ton of money replacing them.


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

PB Blaster Penetrating oil to break up seized parts. Afterwards I would oil with a multi purpose lubricant, or silicone.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Kroil, Liquid Wrench, and PB blaster aren't really all that different in chemical composition and they all work about the same.

WD40 I have never found a really good use for.


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Kroil, Liquid Wrench, and PB blaster aren't really all that different in chemical composition and they all work about the same.
> 
> WD40 I have never found a really good use for.


I'm on a car forum and one of the locals was big on the classic car scene and said somebody in that community did a test on which oil performed the best to break rusted nuts/bolts based on foot lbs of force. 

Kroil was number one, followed by Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil, then PB Blaster, then WD I think.

As far as cost though Liquid Wrench performed the best for the buck. I confused PB and LW, LW is what I have stocked in my garage for working on my car.

I'm talking serious rust and seizures for car work though so probably not relevant. I've used threading oil in a pinch to lubricate my tools at work.


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

I googled a comparison, this looks identical to what I read.



> *For all of you that are mechanically inclined..... Penetrating Oils Compared A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results:
> 
> Penetrating oil .......... Average load
> 
> ...


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59511


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TGGT said:


> I'm on a car forum and one of the locals was big on the classic car scene and said somebody in that community did a test on which oil performed the best to break rusted nuts/bolts based on foot lbs of force.
> 
> Kroil was number one, followed by Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil, then PB Blaster, then WD I think.
> 
> ...


All penetrating oils ( Kr, LW, PB) are based on kerosene. I like LW best for tools and rusted threaded hardware. Of course car work is relevant. Threads are threads they don't know what they are mounted too.

WD 40 is for water displacement basically, it leaves behind a residue that attracts grime and can cause issue sin fine mechanisms. That is why I don't use it. Silicone works better with fewer problems.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TGGT said:


> I googled a comparison, this looks identical to what I read.


The problem with the home brew is shelf life and flammability. Acetone evaporates quickly and will leave you with just ATF shortly. It also will burst into flame far easier than kerosene based penetrants. 

For all those reasons i'll stick with Liquid Wrench. 

Sometimes the old standards are just that for a reason.


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> WD40 I have never found a really good use for.


Starting fires?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

glen1971 said:


> Starting fires?


Never tried it for that.

Too me it ranks right up there with duct tape, not really on my list of useful items.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

glen1971 said:


> Starting fires?



I change my own oil and it's great for starting fires so I stick with what works well and at the lowest price.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I don't think it's great for anything but I keep WD40 on hand, it's good enough for a lot of things. I think it's mostly kerosene. If it stains something it cleans up easy enough most of the time. It will can ruin rubber but I haven't seen it damage plastic. 

They make the big cans with the straw built in, very handy. (The same brand also makes silicone like this.) They also make small toolbox size cans. There are tons of similar general purpose spray lubes available but none with that built in straw. You can buy it by the gallon too but who cares. 

If you get some water where it shouldn't be, like wet spark plug wires, water under rotor, it fixes it fast. 

It takes off adhesive residue from stickers etc., it's a good general degreaser / cleaner.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> I don't think it's great for anything but I keep WD40 on hand, it's good enough for a lot of things. I think it's mostly kerosene. If it stains something it cleans up easy enough most of the time. It will can ruin rubber but I haven't seen it damage plastic.
> 
> They make the big cans with the straw built in, very handy. (The same brand also makes silicone like this.) They also make small toolbox size cans. There are tons of similar general purpose spray lubes available but none with that built in straw. You can buy it by the gallon too but who cares.
> 
> ...



The thing that turned me against it was when it first got popular guys at the gun club I belonged to were using it on their firearms and I asked many of them if they checked to see if it was good for that use. Nobody really answered. 

I was a firm believer in CLP and gun oil. Not too long after I was hearing complaints of problems from sticky residue and being a dust and grime magnet.

Never wanted to use it after. The cans I have were all given to me and they sit on the shelf.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> All penetrating oils ( Kr, LW, PB) are based on kerosene. I like LW best for tools and rusted threaded hardware. Of course car work is relevant. Threads are threads they don't know what they are mounted too.
> 
> WD 40 is for water displacement basically, it leaves behind a residue that attracts grime and can cause issue sin fine mechanisms. That is why I don't use it. Silicone works better with fewer problems.


W(ater) D(isplacement) (formula) 40 was actually formulated by the USAF for the ATLAS missile program.

Yup.

It was used to stop salt mist invasion at the couplings used to launch the Atlas missile at the Cape.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

WD40 is based upon FISH oils carried in kerosene.

Fish oil repels water like nothing else.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Try SeaFoam.

Another fish oil based super lube.

http://seafoamsales.com/


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> Try SeaFoam.
> 
> Another fish oil based super lube.
> 
> http://seafoamsales.com/


I use that as a gas and oil additive and it works well.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> The thing that turned me against it was when it first got popular guys at the gun club I belonged to were using it on their firearms and I asked many of them if they checked to see if it was good for that use. Nobody really answered.
> 
> I was a firm believer in CLP and gun oil. Not too long after I was hearing complaints of problems from sticky residue and being a dust and grime magnet.
> 
> Never wanted to use it after. The cans I have were all given to me and they sit on the shelf.


One of the bests uses for it, spray it in a rag and wipe down your hand tools before you put them away. It leaves just enough of a film on the tools to prevent rust, or at least slow it down. 

(It smells good, too.)


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> One of the bests uses for it, spray it in a rag and wipe down your hand tools before you put them away. It leaves just enough of a film on the tools to prevent rust, or at least slow it down.
> 
> (It smells good, too.)


I will try that, thanks! I'm so close to the water surface rust on tools takes about 4 hours to show up.


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Too me it ranks right up there with duct tape, not really on my list of useful items.


Gotta have my tape.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

I've heard a lot of scuttlebutt about WD-40. My understanding is it's basically mineral oil and a thinning naptha solvent to allow it to do the penetrating that normal mineral oil would be too viscous to use.

The only reason we discourage WD-40 from lubricating use is because the thinner oil evaporates more quickly and solvent will wash out existing lube.

But as far as a "leftover film" I don't think it's better or worse than plain Jane mineral oil.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

I use the white silicone grease on auto electrical connections. Keeps the moisture out, and rust free. Great for the hood and door latches too.

Only thing I've used Spray lithium on was the hand crank and slides for the house windows ... does a great job, stays clean, and the windows open and close much better.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

At Napa Autoparts you can get liquid graphite and that will help keep your vehicle door locks from freezing. Powdered graphite works well in house door locks.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

hardworkingstiff said:


> Gotta have my tape.


For what?


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> For what?


No end of possibilities :thumbsup:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Big John said:


> I've heard a lot of scuttlebutt about WD-40. My understanding is it's basically mineral oil and a thinning naptha solvent to allow it to do the penetrating that normal mineral oil would be too viscous to use.
> 
> The only reason we discourage WD-40 from lubricating use is because the thinner oil evaporates more quickly and solvent will wash out existing lube.
> 
> But as far as a "leftover film" I don't think it's better or worse than plain Jane mineral oil.


You ever seen it sprayed on a hinge and the debris that will build up on it a short time down the road?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

emtnut said:


> No end of possibilities :thumbsup:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPbubMAYN7g


Funny but still not a fan.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

emtnut said:


> No end of possibilities :thumbsup:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPbubMAYN7g


I used to watch that show every week when I lived up in Washington as a kid!


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## active1 (Dec 29, 2009)

White lube in the tub is a grease.
Low end of the spectrum, old school lube.
Garage opener chains, car hinges, drum brakes, etc.
It sticks, low cost, but for low force and temp.
Attracts dirt. Might even catch a fly in it.
Also comes in a spray can that is watered down and almost pointless.
There are so many other products better.

Silicone spray is super slippery.
Works well with rubber some plastics and metal
Other plastics will surface melt and is bad on latex.
Dries clean, doesn't attract dust.
Doesn't seem to last very long begore it needs lube again.
Good lub for installing tight fitting parys like a hose.

For tools used engine oil works good for me.
New motor oil is cleaner.


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## duque00 (Sep 11, 2008)

I've always kept a small stick of cedar in my bag. Works great, tools never rust and when the cedar is shot/done, I just chuck it and replace it with a fresh piece.

You can get cedar pickets at the lumber yard or the big box stores. If not available I get the cedar block that hangs in the closet. Again found at the big box stores. I think last time I paid $6 for a 3 pack. Twist the hanger off and put the cedar in your bag/toolbox.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

duque00 said:


> I've always kept a small stick of cedar in my bag. Works great, tools never rust and when the cedar is shot/done, I just chuck it and replace it with a fresh piece.
> 
> You can get cedar pickets at the lumber yard or the big box stores. If not available I get the cedar block that hangs in the closet. Again found at the big box stores. I think last time I paid $6 for a 3 pack. Twist the hanger off and put the cedar in your bag/toolbox.


I have heard a piece of charcoal is good for that too. I toss those silicone packs you get packaged with electronics in a tool box drawer or power tool box or whatever instead of throwing them out.


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## duque00 (Sep 11, 2008)

splatz said:


> I have heard a piece of charcoal is good for that too. I toss those silicone packs you get packaged with electronics in a tool box drawer or power tool box or whatever instead of throwing them out.



I've heard that too, though never tried it. I would imagine it would disintegrate into powder over time, making a mess? Same thing with the electronics "dry" packets. A great idea, but aren't they like beads inside the packet. I would imagine the packet breaks over time and beads all over the place.....?


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## sparkiez (Aug 1, 2015)

Any penetrating oil works good for breaking stuff up. Despite the claims here, I have found WD-40 to be great at breaking up rust. I always had a spray bottle and used it to flush parts, then wiped them down and flushed out with mineral oil. We were in a packing plant and weren't supposed to use WD-40, but I was also the only one breaking up the corrosion damage on 750 LB monorail in-motion scales. The scales were great, but I still have no idea why they didn't use Stainless for the tensioners. I get using steel or zinc for high-tension bolts because stainless can't handle the strains of 500 LB sides of beef running across.

As for tools, I would use whatever is available. Usually mineral oil, but it takes reapplication quite often.


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

Good tools don't really need lubrication.

It's only when you duck up and have to work in the rain and then forget to dry your stuff that you need anything on em. 

At that point I've found no appreciable difference between wd40, liquid wrench, aerokroil, pfb, our any of the myriad other ones out there. The bane and benefit of having a proactive purchasing agent is that every brand gets bright into the shop eventually.

I take that back, they all have different scent additives. Wd40 is one of the best but nothing smells better than the aerokroil!

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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

I usually use cutting oil because it's around. But my plier hinges don't get stuck very often. 

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## sparkiez (Aug 1, 2015)

B-Nabs said:


> I usually use cutting oil because it's around. But my plier hinges don't get stuck very often.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


I have found that when Klein tools are new a bit of lubricant makes them much easier to handle.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

duque00 said:


> I've heard that too, though never tried it. I would imagine it would disintegrate into powder over time, making a mess? Same thing with the electronics "dry" packets. A great idea, but aren't they like beads inside the packet. I would imagine the packet breaks over time and beads all over the place.....?


In those packets that come with electronics ... It's dessicant. It absorbs moisture until it can't anymore. If you bake them in the oven (microwave may work too) they're reusable then.

We used to buy dessicant in 50 or 100lb bags for the air dryer on the diesel generators.


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## al_smelter (Jan 25, 2011)

telsa said:


> WD40 is based upon FISH oils carried in kerosene.
> 
> Fish oil repels water like nothing else.


I had the fortune, or misfortune to work in the chemical plant that manufactures the secret ingredient that makes WD-40... well, WD-40. It is simply a proprietary surfactant that displaces water. It is made up of several chemicals that use almost every letter of the alphabet. Unfortunately, fish oil isn't one of them.

http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp

WD-40 was never meant to be a pressure "lubricant". It displays limited lubricity for a short time, but most of it evaporates quite rapidly, leaving a very thin film of who knows what. It works fairly well as a cleaning solvent, and only okay as a penetrating oil. But it isn't a very good lubricant, nor was it really designed to be.

As with just about anything, nothing is good at everything. I use white lithium GREASE for pressure applications, like the bearings in my mower deck. I use silicone spray to loosen vinyl window tracks. I use Kroil or PB for stuck bolts. And the WD-40 comes out when I've been in the rain with my tools or the distributor cap in my old MG is damp.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

al_smelter said:


> I had the fortune, or misfortune to work in the chemical plant that manufactures the secret ingredient that makes WD-40... well, WD-40. It is simply a proprietary surfactant that displaces water. It is made up of several chemicals that use almost every letter of the alphabet. Unfortunately, fish oil isn't one of them.
> 
> http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
> 
> ...



Like I said before, never found a good use for it myself and I never knew why so many guys think it is so great.


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