# connections in in-ground handhole



## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

I have a job coming up that reminds me of one I was on a few years back working with another contractor. He/we ran a string of driveway light poles using underground conduit (directional boring) and 10" open bottomed handholes (like THIS), one handhole near each light pole. It was a 20-amp circuit, GFCI protected, with THWN wire in HDPE tubing. I'm pretty sure the type of connections made in each handhole were incorrect -- or certainly according to 2014 and 2017, the cycles we're on around here. If I'm not mistaken, current requirements would be for connections approved for direct burial, and the only ones I'm familiar with are like THIS. 



I'm looking at a couple of upcoming jobs, actually, where the same overall approach could be useful, and I'm wanting to make sure my reading is correct. I'd appreciate hearing any opinions. (well, *almost* any opinions. :smile


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## stiffneck (Nov 8, 2015)

I would install light poles that allow splicing in the base. Thus eliminating the need for “in-ground hand holes” and below grade splices.
Unless you have a lot of spaghetti...


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I do a pretty good amount of site light lighting crap (unfortunately), use a lot of Ilsco and Polaris underground connectors.


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## ppsh (Jan 2, 2014)

For 10ga and smaller: squirt a small amount of no-ox in a wire nut, put it on your wires. Flip it opening up and fill with scotchkote. Let dry for 3-5 minutes. Apply 33+ and light coat of scotchkote.

Ive seen connections made 20 years ago using that method surviving in christy boxes.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

These are not cheap but, have 3 holes. in, out and a tap for light poles.



















https://rexel-cdn.com/Products/NSITork/ESSLK-2-0.pdf?i=31BD19DC-5EF1-4DAA-B839-4DA2C4881319


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

ppsh said:


> For 10ga and smaller: squirt a small amount of no-ox in a wire nut, put it on your wires. Flip it opening up and fill with scotchkote. Let dry for 3-5 minutes. Apply 33+ and light coat of scotchkote.
> 
> Ive seen connections made 20 years ago using that method surviving in christy boxes.


We used to just bend the splice so that the wire side was facing up, then dip the wire nut into the can opening enough to fill up the wire nut. Leave them facing down and close the junction box cover. *Do not dip energized conductors!! Scotchcoat is conductive as a liquid. *

3M also made Scotchcast, a little ketchup packet size 2 part mix where you squeeze one side to rupture the barrier inside, mix it for x amount of time, cut one side off and slip with wirenut inside. We would tape the open side and close the junction box cover

Page 176:

http://mdocs.3m.com/electricalproducts/app.php?RelId=6.10.6.0.8


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

NEC 2017: 


> 314.30 Handhole Enclosures.
> (C) Enclosed Wiring. All enclosed conductors and any splices
> or terminations, if present, shall be listed as suitable for wet
> locations.


I have used the usual gel filled wire nuts and tried to arrange them so the point is up and sets closer to the cover than the ground. If I know the place doesn't drain well I'd upgrade to direct burial rated. 

I have not used these Etcon SKUF products yet, but I have used similar devices for low voltage and they work great in handholes, and they are easy to re-enter. They are not cheap but since everything direct burial is expensive they are competitive and look faster and better for future maintenance. 

http://www.etcon.com/files/splice_kits-lighting.pdf


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

If it’s in a handhole, it doesn’t need to be spliced via direct burial methods. It is not considered direct burial. It is considered spliced inside a junction box rated for a wet location, and inside the handhole is considered a wet location. 

Therefore, any splicing method listed for a wet location is sufficient. Such as those wire nuts with the goop in them.

The circuit is then required to be GFCI protected, so any water intrusion will trip the breaker, no big deal. 

However, if it is your desire to avoid water ingress inducing a breaker trip, then yes I’d suggest Polaris style lugs that are direct burial rated, or gooping it in a 3M product, etc. But don’t think that it’s the only way to do it.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/scotchcast-connector-sealing-pack-25402186










ScotchCast™ 

$3.19 According to Graybar's Gobble advert.

It's a sweet product. If I'm below grade, it's what I use.


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## stiffneck (Nov 8, 2015)

telsa said:


> https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/scotchcast-connector-sealing-pack-25402186
> 
> 
> 
> ...



We've been using Polaris for a while, was using the gel filled wire nuts. No direct buried anymore, but some areas going under water and stay under for long periods of time. Poor drainage or slow drainage that could be rectified, but hasn't. That "Scotchcast" looks worth trying.


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## JohnJ65 (May 8, 2008)

I use the Scotchcast packs for landscape lighting and have never had an issue with them. I have also used them in your situation where I know at some point the splice will be under water.


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

stiffneck said:


> I would install light poles that allow splicing in the base. Thus eliminating the need for “in-ground hand holes” and below grade splices.
> Unless you have a lot of spaghetti...



The new job isn't for light poles ... and the residential ones I did years back were custom-made, no base.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

tjb said:


> If it’s in a handhole, it doesn’t need to be spliced via direct burial methods. It is not considered direct burial. It is considered spliced inside a junction box rated for a wet location, and inside the handhole is considered a wet location.
> 
> Therefore, any splicing method listed for a wet location is sufficient. Such as those wire nuts with the goop in them.
> 
> ...


This. If the splices are not buried, why treat them as such?


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

joe-nwt said:


> This. If the splices are not buried, why treat them as such?



They're not covered in dirt, but they're outdoors and below grade. Plus, as some have mentioned, potentially subject to water/flooding.


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## canbug (Dec 31, 2015)

I still like a split bolt, rubber tape and then vinyl tape.


Tim.


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