# vinyl siding blocks for exterior lights



## Power21

Hi all, today i went to hang exterior lights on a new construction home i wired up and encountered vinyl siding blocks that were new to me. Usually the siding guys leave my wire stubbed out and i put a siding block on after the fact. Im assuming that these boxes arent rated for wiring inside them so im wondering if tracing out and cutting in for a a weatherproof box is the right way to go. Not sure if the box will push the fixture out too far though. Any help would be much app! thanks as always....Clint


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## doubleoh7

Those aren't from Arlington products are they? I can't tell without the cover removed.


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## McClary’s Electrical

Power21 said:


> Hi all, today i went to hang exterior lights on a new construction home i wired up and encountered vinyl siding blocks that were new to me. Usually the siding guys leave my wire stubbed out and i put a siding block on after the fact. Im assuming that these boxes arent rated for wiring inside them so im wondering if tracing out and cutting in for a a weatherproof box is the right way to go. Not sure if the box will push the fixture out too far though. Any help would be much app! thanks as always....Clint


 
Some of those are rated for wiring, but I don't think that one is. I would cut in a shallow box to house the joints.

http://homerepair.about.com/od/electricalrepair/ss/swtchbox_mtl.htm



Cut a square, 4 small screws, you're done


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## B4T

I had the same problem and cut in a 3" round box.. it stuck past the vinyl siding about 1/8" and used a romex connector in what ever hole lined up in the back.


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## captkirk

why not use a regular pancake box..?


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## B4T

captkirk said:


> why not use a regular pancake box..?


You will have a gap of 1/2" or more.. the 3" box also supports the fixture bar better if it weighs a few pounds


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## Power21

Black4Truck said:


> I had the same problem and cut in a 3" round box.. it stuck past the vinyl siding about 1/8" and used a romex connector in what ever hole lined up in the back.


Thanks, Im gonna try this tomorrow.


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## robnj772

Last time I ran into that sh!t I told the builder if I didn't supply the blocks from now it I was gonna charge him $50 more a light.

Needless to say his sider was canned after he saw the stuff arlington had.

Does the siding guy have a mullet and think it is 1981?


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## robnj772

doubleoh7 said:


> Those aren't from Arlington products are they? I can't tell without the cover removed.


 
What cover?


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## doubleoh7

That is 2 pieces isn't it. On second thougth, they are not from Arlington anyway. I typed before thinking.


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## Mr. Sparkle

Get a sharp utility blade and 20 spare minutes and trace and cut in an octagon box, or get a rockwell sonicrafter and cut it in in 1 minute, but no doubt those boxes blow.


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## doubleoh7

I really like the ones from Arlington. You can get two birds stoned at once.


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## Ima Hack

I see these all the time. I usually just push the romex back into the wall and use a 3-5/8" hole saw and cut in a old work box. Once you finish with hole just reach in and grab the wire.

Just use a long enough pilot bit to reach the plywood. Takes two minutes.:thumbsup:


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## frenchelectrican

That what I did told one GC about the sliding block I have the same issue and told him about Arington sliding block for that purpose after that he make a specs in there ditto with semi flush in use recetpale I know cost little more than plain jane crap but it worth it in long run.

Merci,
Marc


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## doubleoh7

frenchelectrican said:


> That what I did told one GC about the sliding block I have the same issue and told him about Arington sliding block for that purpose after that he make a specs in there ditto with semi flush in use recetpale I know cost little more than plain jane crap but it worth it in long run.
> 
> Merci,
> Marc


 
They don't cost more when you consider that you are getting the siding block and listed box in one product. You get two birds stoned at once.


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## pjmurph2002

doubleoh7 said:


> I really like the ones from Arlington. You can get two birds stoned at once.


 
what does the arlington box look like?


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## frenchelectrican

doubleoh7 said:


> They don't cost more when you consider that you are getting the siding block and listed box in one product. You get two birds stoned at once.


C'est true and it will really save alot of time due everything is line up right and don't have to waste time to Bs'ing to do it in old way.

Merci.
Marc


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## 480sparky

frenchelectrican said:


> C'est true and it will really save alot of time due everything is line up right and don't have to waste time to Bs'ing to do it in old way.
> 
> Merci.
> Marc



Unless you supply them, the siders are gonna slap up the cheapest thing they can get their grubby little paws on.


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## frenchelectrican

480sparky said:


> Unless you supply them, the siders are gonna slap up the cheapest thing they can get their grubby little paws on.


The other issue I have heard more than once and I am sure you do see it as well some customérs want them to be colour matched.

Merci.
Marc


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## 480sparky

frenchelectrican said:


> The other issue I have heard more than once and I am sure you do see it as well some customérs want them to be colour matched.
> 
> Merci.
> Marc



All it takes is more money. :whistling2:


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## frenchelectrican

pjmurph2002 said:


> what does the arlington box look like?


 
Voila!.,,











Merci.
Marc


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## frenchelectrican

480sparky said:


> All it takes is more money. :whistling2:


 
Yep more Dollars / Euros to play around. :thumbsup:


Merci.
Marc


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## jw0445

I just mount the octagon box on the OSB prior to the siding guys. They cut the mount master block to fit. The standard one ( I forget the depth ) fits flush with the block surface.


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## woodchuck2

Yup, those blocks suck!!! I ran into those on a new home i wired last year. The owner insisted on using the blocks the siding contractor provided because the home was some custom color and she wanted the blocks to match. The covers do not snap on tightly, you have to install your own box which i told her was a change order since i had not planned on having to install them and had billed her accordingly. Normally i like to install the J-blocks but this contractor wanted to put them up himself so they lined up with the siding, apparently we electricians cannot read a tape measure and no nothing about siding!!! You just cannot beat the quality of Arlington products when it comes to J-blocks and such.


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## wiremanss

I use a handy box with a button connector 2 screws,ground screw and a roto zip 5 minutes done


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## wiremanss

or a octogon box


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## Split Bolt

I hate those things as well. Whichever box you decide to use, cutting it with your tin snips is fast and dust free!


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## cwgriswald

I found that it is best to install an 1 1/2 deep 8b box on the rough in. Poke the wire in with a plastic cable bushing and screw it to the sheathing. When the siders install the siding box, they will then usually knock out the round ko on the box and line it up with the box. This is great for finish because the box and 8/32 screws are all there and all you have to do is hang the light.


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## sparky1423

I've done an entire townhouse development with these style of siding blocks. You got some good advice here. Absolutely go with a shallow metal 8B (1 1/2" depth) the box will extend pass the siding, but usually will not intefere with the fixture. The WP receptacles, you have to trace out and sawzaw the exterior OSB to countersink the old work box. Just make sure in the rough-in not to poke the romex out next to a stud, then you are screwed! Talk the GC about using Arlington two piece block, but charge accordingly. Be gentle in the winter, these junk blocks like to crack!


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## Power21

sparky1423 said:


> I've done an entire townhouse development with these style of siding blocks. You got some good advice here. Absolutely go with a shallow metal 8B (1 1/2" depth) the box will extend pass the siding, but usually will not intefere with the fixture. The WP receptacles, you have to trace out and sawzaw the exterior OSB to countersink the old work box. Just make sure in the rough-in not to poke the romex out next to a stud, then you are screwed! Talk the GC about using Arlington two piece block, but charge accordingly. Be gentle in the winter, these junk blocks like to crack!


Thanks for the advice!!:thumbup: Arlington boxes from here on out even if I have to pay for them!


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## bobelectric

Talk to you later.They have 
problems with Generac.


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## ralph

Ima Hack said:


> I see these all the time. I usually just push the romex back into the wall and use a 3-5/8" hole saw and cut in a old work box. Once you finish with hole just reach in and grab the wire.
> 
> Just use a long enough pilot bit to reach the plywood. Takes two minutes.:thumbsup:


 I like this way better than using a pancake box. I dont think the cubic inch capacity is available for anything more than 1 - 14-2 anyway


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## van2977

Power21 said:


> Hi all, today i went to hang exterior lights on a new construction home i wired up and encountered vinyl siding blocks that were new to me. Usually the siding guys leave my wire stubbed out and i put a siding block on after the fact. Im assuming that these boxes arent rated for wiring inside them so im wondering if tracing out and cutting in for a a weatherproof box is the right way to go. Not sure if the box will push the fixture out too far though. Any help would be much app! thanks as always....Clint



Just use a pancake box cut it out with a sharp utility knife or a dremel multi max type tool got one at harbor freight for 30 bucks just for them blocks the siders must get on sale ...worth every penny


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## big vic

Mount a box for the fixture during rough in


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## captkirk

warning old ass thread....


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## Teaspoon

cwgriswald said:


> I found that it is best to install an 1 1/2 deep 8b box on the rough in. Poke the wire in with a plastic cable bushing and screw it to the sheathing. When the siders install the siding box, they will then usually knock out the round ko on the box and line it up with the box. This is great for finish because the box and 8/32 screws are all there and all you have to do is hang the light.


I always do it this way as well. 1 1/2" octagon box attached to unfinished wall,
use back knock-out,install a plastic bushing, stub out wire.Vinal people install,trim kit. A 4" hole saw makes neat hole in trim kit.Sometimes i will install trim kit for them if it seems they don't like the idea.I would rather do it for them as have them do a half way job. done correctly it makes for a neat trim-out.


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