# Special lighting arrangement for Church



## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

I would change it to for 120 volts on the normaly closed and 240 for T1 energized. Let the contactor rest most of the time instead of being engaged.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

If I was to wire it _exactly_ as drawn it would either be full of shorts or opens. :jester:












It is a problem with the drawing not the design


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

Looks good to me, but I would swap the NO NC contacts to let the 120 feed the lights in the contactor fail position.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

drsparky said:


> Looks good to me,


Other than us knowing what he is trying to do how would his drawing show which conductors are connected and which just happen to cross each other? :jester:




> but I would swap the NO NC contacts to let the 120 feed the lights in the contactor fail position.


Makes sense as well as the resting position as you mentioned.


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

Bob Badger said:


> Other than us knowing what he is trying to do how would his drawing show which conductors are connected and which just happen to cross each other? :jester:
> The little black dots! No little back dot, no connection.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

MD.,

Change one K1 contractor due I catch the drawing if that was engerized you will have 240 volt short circuit.

I will just swap the NC and NO around in case the timer or contractor failure mode it will stay in dim mode not in bright mode.

{ Ya know what the 240 volt bulbs cost .,, }

Merci.
Marc


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## JTMEYER (May 2, 2009)

How bout one single pole and one three way, the three way supplying the neutral when in one position and the other leg in the other. One switch on, 120v, dim lights, two switches on, 240v, bright lights, switch one off, lights off.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

drsparky said:


> I would change it to for 120 volts on the normaly closed and 240 for T1 energized. Let the contactor rest most of the time instead of being engaged.


Could a mechanical latching relay be incorporated and save even more except for purchase price?


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## Lighting Retro (Aug 1, 2009)

why not just use dimmable ballasts with an induction lamp? Might make life a lot simpler, and you don't have to worry about different voltages. Just a thought.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Lighting Retro said:


> why not just use dimmable ballasts with an induction lamp? Might make life a lot simpler, and you don't have to worry about different voltages. Just a thought.


No place to mount a ballast, and only E27 sockets in historical fixtures. Same circuit also supplies vestibule fixtures.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

drsparky said:


> Bob Badger said:
> 
> 
> > Other than us knowing what he is trying to do how would his drawing show which conductors are connected and which just happen to cross each other? :jester:
> ...


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

drsparky said:


> The little black dots! No little back dot, no connection.



Yeah, he added the black dots after my posts. :laughing:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Bob Badger said:


> Yeah, he added the black dots after my posts. :laughing:


They're been there since the picture was posted. It's a paint image, last edited about 10 minutes before I started this thread.


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## Lighting Retro (Aug 1, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> No place to mount a ballast, and only E27 sockets in historical fixtures. Same circuit also supplies vestibule fixtures.


well that certainly does limit options


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

So you want a Rube Goldberg compition, Eh. :jester:

Lets start with a:

View attachment 3957


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> No place to mount a ballast, and only E27 sockets in historical fixtures.  Same circuit also supplies vestibule fixtures.


With that added piece of information, disregard my previous suggestion.


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

On a more serious note……

For 240 VAC and your application delete the bridge rectifier, change the voltage and amperage (it will go up to 15 amps) of the Q1 triac, change the voltage rating on the capacitors, change R3 to 2K ohms. Then you are good to go. It will cost about 5-6 $$ to make. 

S1 will send full voltage to the output and R1 will determine the lower voltage output. 

View attachment 3958


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I was trying to keep the human being interface out of the install.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> They're been there since the picture was posted. It's a paint image, last edited about 10 minutes before I started this thread.


I think my leg is being pulled but it could be I should wear my glasses more often.


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