# Inverter Install in work van



## wyork (Jun 6, 2012)

So, I decided I was going to install an inverter in my van, so I would have the ability to have power at my truck for charging tool batteries, run some power tools, better lights inside and of course make coffee when there is no power availible.
I bought 
1750 watt inverter
battery isolator
75 amp hour battery
200 amp fuse
45' 1/0 audio power cable
I realized i would drain the battery rather quickly with leaving the inverter all the time so that my lights would work.... So i also bought a small 400 watt inverter to stay on all the time strictly to run my lights. I also bought a 12v relay to tie into my door switch so the lights come on automatically.

This isnt done yet, so dont judge my wire management, when I am happy with everything I will go back and neaten up the wires.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

I just seen a truck on one of our freeways last night. Had what looked like a 2 x 4 foot fluorescent sign on the side of the truck all lit up. 

Was that you?


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Paging 480


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Seems like using an inverter just for a 2-tube fluoro is like hunting squirrels with a bazooka. I installed 12v LED strip lights to improve the lighting.


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## wyork (Jun 6, 2012)

ill take a picture at night, youll understand...


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

What's to understand?





















My inverter drives just a duplex on the headache rack.


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## wyork (Jun 6, 2012)

touche.


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

480sparky said:


> What's to understand?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


how many watt inverter?
how much did the LED strips cost?
do you have an extra deep cycle battery on your van?
I have a custom van I want to put a TV in
Use the same alternator on the van no upgrade or anything?


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

wyork said:


> So, I decided I was going to install an inverter in my van, so I would have the ability to have power at my truck for charging tool batteries, run some power tools, better lights inside and of course make coffee when there is no power availible.
> I bought
> 1750 watt inverter
> battery isolator
> ...


can't find any room under the hood to put couple extra batteries?


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

You need a isolation block that lets the vehicle alternator charge both batteries but only lets the inverter draw current from the inverter battery. Where you bought your inverter should have them.

LC


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> You need a isolation block that lets the vehicle alternator charge both batteries but only lets the inverter draw current from the inverter battery. Where you bought your inverter should have them.
> 
> LC


He has that


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Lep said:


> how many watt inverter?
> how much did the LED strips cost?
> do you have an extra deep cycle battery on your van?
> I have a custom van I want to put a TV in
> Use the same alternator on the van no upgrade or anything?



2000w run 4000w surge. It'll run my Hilti TE905.
LEDs were something like 9-12 each
2nd battery behind passenger seat.
No alternator upgrade.


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## J. Temple (Dec 30, 2011)

480sparky said:


> 2000w run 4000w surge. It'll run my Hilti TE905.
> LEDs were something like 9-12 each
> 2nd battery behind passenger seat.
> No alternator upgrade.



Are you running a pure / true sinewave inverter or a modified one? I here that some power tool battery charger won't work with modified sinewave ones. I think the Milwaukee ones won't.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

J. Temple said:


> Are you running a pure / true sinewave inverter or a modified one? I here that some power tool battery charger won't work with modified sinewave ones. I think the Milwaukee ones won't.



It's a modified sinewave. I don't use it for chargers unless I absolutely have to, and I've only done that once.

The maintenance light on the TE905 will light up when on this, but I know it's not right so I ignore it.


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

480sparky said:


> It's a modified sinewave. I don't use it for chargers unless I absolutely have to, and I've only done that once.
> 
> The maintenance light on the TE905 will light up when on this, but I know it's not right so I ignore it.


will this type of inverter work for the newer flat screen TVs for automotive use?

for your auxiliary batteries did you use deep cycle?

I'm wondering if it would be worth it to add two auxiliary deep cycle batteries in parallel ?


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

I don't have a dog in the fight but I've always - usually wonder
what if.

I'm not pushing a model or type but I found what I thought was a 
good overview of installing an *inverter*.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Lep said:


> will this type of inverter work for the newer flat screen TVs for automotive use?


I have no idea..... mine's a work truck, not a man cave. I'd be safe and go with a true sinewave.



Lep said:


> for your auxiliary batteries did you use deep cycle?


Marine type.



Lep said:


> I'm wondering if it would be worth it to add two auxiliary deep cycle batteries in parallel ?


Depends on your expected usage. Two batteries might be overkill.


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

120v fluorescents in your truck - how 1997!


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Grogan14 said:


> 120v fluorescents in your truck - how 1997!


Yessah.


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## wyork (Jun 6, 2012)

Grogan14 said:


> 120v fluorescents in your truck - how 1997!



Those are LEDs sucka.. Free fixture I pulled out of a job, ( I did buy the led lamps)
The front one is a fluorescent though. Free t5


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

wyork said:


> Those are LEDs sucka.. Free fixture I pulled out of a job, ( I did buy the led lamps)
> The front one is a fluorescent though. Free t5
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So you LED retrofit a fluorescent fixture in your van, which has 12v DC already? No offense, because I am all for tinkering, but why didn't you choose one of the eleventy billion options available for 12v DC lighting fixtures? I get the free angle for the fixture, but how much did that separate inverter set you back?

Again, I think it is great to tinker with stuff, but sometimes you have to cut your losses and realize there is a better way. I personally am a big fan of efficiency, regardless of how minute the gains are, and would never take power that has been converted 4 times (losses at each step) to light my van.


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## wyork (Jun 6, 2012)

That inverter cost me 29 bucks, free fixture in the front and back and 2 led retros at 18.95 each, 6 bucks for the relay
So 75 bucks and I have a ton of light. I was installing the other inverter anyway so it didn't cost me an additional installation material. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

wyork said:


> .......So 75 bucks and I have a ton of light. .........


White LED, 12vdc, 48"..... $48/5.

And no broken T12 lamps all over the van.


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

wyork said:


> That inverter cost me 29 bucks, free fixture in the front and back and 2 led retros at 18.95 each, 6 bucks for the relay
> So 75 bucks and I have a ton of light. I was installing the other inverter anyway so it didn't cost me an additional installation material.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Well you got the experience of doing it ,next time around maybe you'll do it different.

I think there's a lot of work out there for RV generator repair , rv solar installation etc. I think you can charge plenty of. $$$.

so keep on tinkering
:thumbup::laughing:


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

My KUV truck body came with the extra battery installed in the work bin behind the drivers door. 
I mounted an 1800 watt inverter next to it about six years ago.
Never had a problem. It will run my small Greenlee tugger and any tools in need to operate EXCEPT for the big concrete breaker chipping hammer that is mounted on a two wheeled dolly. That sucker overloads it.
I have two deep cycle batteries on the truck so, if both batteries are healthy, I can leave the inverter on over the weekend with no problems.


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## Phadden1980 (Dec 25, 2014)

My boss has an inverter that's cool for running small things. He bought a bigger one in hopes of running a big hilti hammer drill but no luck.


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## xpertpc (Oct 11, 2012)

A quick way to tell what kind of inverter you will need:.

Most newer electronics such as computer and LCD TV's and anything in-between usually works well on modified waveform inverters

Big transformers can not tolerate distortion from a modified waveform inverter for too long or will overheat.

Induction motors will overheat with time and fail prematurely with prolonged use. I have a 2000 watt pure sign wave for my refrigerators that cost about $500.

Rule of thumbs:

If your drill motor uses 2 amps at 120 vac then it will use 20 amps at 12 vdc (100% efficiency), however there is some overhead - most modified waveform inverters are only 50 to 85 percent efficient, the rest burns up as heat. Many pure sign wave inverters are 95% efficient or better. Your 20 amp drill can easily eat up 30 amp of battery all while making 120 watts of heat for your cool ride.

Lead acid car batteries are designed to have a discharge at its CCA for only 30 seconds at most, anything more for more than a few cycles will irreversible damage it.

You need a battery that states its total amperage and its rate of discharge over a given time period, and or a reserve time rating.

Example: a 200 amp battery can have a rate of discharge of 25 amps over 8 hours (200 ah), or a 50 amp discharge over only 2 hours (100 ah). That"s a big difference, so keeping the rate of discharge inline with the battery spec will make it last much longer.

that was just an easy math example as few batteries have a 480 minute (8 hour) reserve rating, most are in the 200 minute range.

Battery science is an art unto itself, I am not an expert by no means but I do run golf cart batteries on my solar voltaic system to experiment with as reading the horror stories of people burning up a $5000 battery bank inside of 1 year because they went on the cheap.


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## Phadden1980 (Dec 25, 2014)

That's some good info.... Thanks


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

xpertpc said:


> A quick way to tell what kind of inverter you will need:.
> 
> Most newer electronics such as computer and LCD TV's and anything in-between usually works well on modified waveform inverters
> 
> ...


I would agree about batteries, Midtronics has some excellent equipment and training for battery management.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

What about the hydrogen gas from batteries in your van ?


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## xpertpc (Oct 11, 2012)

hydrogen is small and light, it leaves our atmosphere very quickly but like any explosive gases caution should be heeded and use a special vent cap for the batteries to let the hydrogen out the side or top.

Personally if it were my van i'd be more worried about the methane than anything else.


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

xpertpc said:


> hydrogen is small and light, it leaves our atmosphere very quickly but like any explosive gases caution should be heeded and use a special vent cap for the batteries to let the hydrogen out the side or top.
> 
> Personally if it were my van i'd be more worried about the methane than anything else.


I have a truck I'm going to put a additional deep cycle battery and I think I want to put the inverter under the hood.I think a 2000 watt pure sign inverter is what I want.
any manufacturer recommendation for the inverter?

1.what size wire and type wire should I have run into the back of the truck?

2.should I just put a fourplex outlets in the back?

3.any other information or tips I should know?

I have a shell on the back I go fishing camping,maybe I'll have a small flat screen TV, a small heater ,laptop,maybe a power tool once in awhile .


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Lep said:


> ......put the inverter under the hood.......


Um........ is it waterproof?


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

480sparky said:


> Um........ is it waterproof?


Also, wouldn't that have a lot of excess heat?


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Lep... Check out American Van, they sell kits:http://www.americanvan.com/van-and-truck-accessories/power-inverters


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

Switched said:


> Lep... Check out American Van, they sell kits:http://www.americanvan.com/van-and-truck-accessories/power-inverters


Thanks
I noticed they have a 3000 watt for around $450.
I wonder if there's any build your own kits for inverters.


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## BostonEast (Jan 25, 2013)

Check harbor freight. I bought one from there about 4 years ago and mounted it on the wall between the cab and back. 4000w peak and 2000w continuous. Paid around 250 for everything with a 5 year warranty. Haven't had one single issue with it. 100a in-line fuse and it'll run just about any power tool in the truck. Also has an auto shutoff if it senses the truck battery is getting low so there's still enough juice to start the truck. Definitely worth it


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## cuba_pete (Dec 8, 2011)

*Dc-dc*



nbb said:


> Again, I think it is great to tinker with stuff, but sometimes you have to cut your losses and realize there is a better way. I personally am a big fan of efficiency, regardless of how minute the gains are, and would never take power that has been converted 4 times (losses at each step) to light my van.


Yet here we are discussing pricey true-sine inverters instead of putting in DC-DC converters and DIY'ing DC chargers for battery packs. The flat panel TV's and other nifty gadgets can use the available DC _instead_ of going AC-DC-AC-DC.


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## V-Dough (Jul 22, 2014)

1. Be careful with adding batteries to your car. I've made this mistake with my first car audio system, and it smoked the alternator within a year.
2. If you plan to use anything over 500W, make sure your engine is running.
3. Most alternators put out only 30-40% of their rated power at idle, so to get 1500W you'd need a 300A high output alternator.
4. Personally i would never use a modified sine wave inwerter on anything.
5. Based on extensive research and personal experience I can recommend Samlex brand. Xantrex and Dimensions are also great. You get what you pay for stands true.


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

I better run about 15 feet of battery cable for my battery to the back of my truck what size do I need 2000 watt inverter


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## V-Dough (Jul 22, 2014)

Lep said:


> I better run about 15 feet of battery cable for my battery to the back of my truck what size do I need 2000 watt inverter


2000W/12V @85% efficiency = 196A

For non continuous load you might get away with 1/0. That would give you 5% voltage drop
If you want no more than 3% you will need to use 3/0.


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

V-Dough said:


> 2000W/12V @85% efficiency = 196A
> 
> For non continuous load you might get away with 1/0. That would give you 5% voltage drop
> If you want no more than 3% you will need to use 3/0.


do they make battery cable that big and where do I get it?


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> You need a isolation block that lets the vehicle alternator charge both batteries but only lets the inverter draw current from the inverter battery. Where you bought your inverter should have them.
> 
> LC


I hate those, it's basicly just 2 giant diodes. The forward biased breakdown voltage means that neither battery will ever fully charge without modifying your voltage regulator. I prefer a constant duty solenoid triggered by the ignition acc. I allows full charge to both batteries and in a pinch, you can charge your main battery with your accessory battery if the main runs dead... That and they are about ha
F the price.


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## V-Dough (Jul 22, 2014)

Lep said:


> do they make battery cable that big and where do I get it?


I got mine from a company called Temco on ebay. You can buy straight from them also. Or anyone that sells welding cable. You could also use a stage lighting cable, DLO cable, or marine single conductor cable, but i think welding is the cheapest. Whatever you get it should be water and oil resistant.


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## xpertpc (Oct 11, 2012)

This is my Samlex 2000 watt pure sine-wave and Samlex 15 amp 3 stage triple output charger.
I bought the cables already made up from auto parts store, I think they are 2 awg.

I don't remember the prices but think they were less than $500 and $200, the batteries were close to $300 and are 220 amp 6 volt golf cart. At a 50% maximum depth of discharge (dod) will give me 110 amp x 12 volt = 1320 watts, which will run my refrigerator & freezer for about 24 hours. 

My system is only to run my refrigerator and freezer while I am gone and until I start the generator during a power outage. 2000 watts is way over sized for me but compressor starting currents are hard on inverters. This inverter has a 4000 watt surge capacity and soft start.

The inverter also has built in GFCI and a remote display operator panel that gives the battery voltage and other info. This model may be overkill for your needs.

What exactly are you going to be powering with the inverter and for how long at a time?


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

I want to install a flat screen TV in my travel trailer what type of antenna should I use (non cable , non dish type)
just want to grab whatever in the air


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## mshell56118 (Oct 12, 2014)

If you plan on using inverters to charge tool batteries you want a true/pure sine wave unit because a modified sine wave unit may charge your batteries you will slowly kill your batteries and make the useless


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

Lep said:


> I want to install a flat screen TV in my travel trailer what type of antenna should I use (non cable , non dish type)
> just want to grab whatever in the air


Digital Antenna


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

CADPoint said:


> Digital Antenna



Antennas are antennas. Digital or analog, they're the same.


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

CADPoint said:


> Digital Antenna


guess I should borrow small flat screen TV and scrounge up some antennas and see which ones work the best before I buy something


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## xpertpc (Oct 11, 2012)

A digital is just a re-branded UHF antenna, a 1950 bowtie will work if near enough to the sources.

Those small square flat ones work good inside and out but may need a yagi if you are too far away.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

xpertpc said:


> A digital is just a re-branded UHF antenna, a 1950 bowtie will work if near enough to the sources.
> 
> Those small square flat ones work good inside and out but may need a yagi if you are too far away.


Ayup. It is the same frequency as before, although I believe the FCC trimmed some of the VHF band to reallocate, and therefore antennas already designed to attenuate UHF and the top bands of VHF will work just fine.


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