# Under cabinet lighting



## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

What are you guys using for under cabonet lighting. I have some lady asking me to do a few but would be my first supply and install for this. I have installed xenon undercabinet fixtures but that was like 20 years ago.
Should I go LED or stick to T5?
Should I go with the brightest I can find?


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

I still use the zenons occasionally and like them. Usually use LEDs though. 
I think they're Electromart. They come with a useless box connector and a 
hole that's too small for a grey plastic connector. Have to remember to 
bring a hole punch when I'm doing these. 
P&L

edit: Regarding brightness, I don't pay attention to this. Just 
install the length(s) that best suits the cupboards.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

The halogens melt the butter left on the counter. Go LED as wide as will fit under each cabinet.


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

Hate extra low voltage. Hate puck lights. 
P&L


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I have always liked fluorescent UC lights, so I want to find LED's that are inexpensive and give out the same type of light with no hotspots and flare reflections.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

With so many brands its hard to choose. I would prefer to use something low voltage. I think I'm going to install a switched receptacle under the cabinets for the transformer.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Don't bother with anything but LED. Best bang for the buck is...wait for it...Ikea! Seriously, pricing is good, easy to install and you can put lots of sticks on a driver.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> Don't bother with anything but LED. Best bang for the buck is...wait for it...Ikea! Seriously, pricing is good, easy to install and you can put lots of sticks on a driver.


I got a price from my lighting supplier. They sell 120V strips in 1,2,3,4 foot lengths. $18,$27,$33,$38 respectively.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> I got a price from my lighting supplier. They sell 120V strips in 1,2,3,4 foot lengths. $18,$27,$33,$38 respectively.


Are those the ones that look like the old xenon but are LED? I have seen them but for some reason I don't like them. I like the lovo sticks and using thermostat wire.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> Are those the ones that look like the old xenon but are LED? I have seen them but for some reason I don't like them. I like the lovo sticks and using thermostat wire.


I'm not sure what they look like but theyre led. Which ikea lights do you use?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> I'm not sure what they look like but theyre led. Which ikea lights do you use?


I use the Omlopp with the Ansluta driver. Be sure to order the power cord for the driver.


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## Glock23gp (Mar 10, 2014)

When using low voltage wire where do you hide the xfmr for cabinets that go to the ceiling?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I'd much rather have 120v UC lights.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> I use the Omlopp with the Ansluta driver. Be sure to order the power cord for the driver.


How far do you space them apart?


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

I use LED self adhesive tape light. Mount the dimmable driver in the upper cabinet above the microwave and run 2 conductor tstat wire to the underside of the cabinet. Then clear 2 sided gorilla tape to hold wire and splice up underneath. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Service Call said:


> I use LED self adhesive tape light. Mount the dimmable driver in the upper cabinet above the microwave and run 2 conductor tstat wire to the underside of the cabinet. Then clear 2 sided gorilla tape to hold wire and splice up underneath.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What do you use to make the splices?


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

I generally use LED strip lights from CSL lighting but occasionally use LED tape lighting.

Started using the tape lighting for bookcases and glass door cabinets instead of puck lights. Inside of cabinets I install it vertically.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Glock23gp said:


> When using low voltage wire where do you hide the xfmr for cabinets that go to the ceiling?


If I can go downstairs to an unfinished area, I will. Otherwise, in a useless cabinet like the one above the fridge. If there is space behind a drawer, put it there. Butt splices and tie wraps with sticky backs to make it pretty.

I know a guy who knows a guy who cuts off the cord end and hard wires it to get around the arc fault rule.


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

Butt splice and heat shrink on the wire and they make a tap to go on the contacts of the tape light. The one I use are cutable every 2". 


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I'd much rather have 120v UC lights.


Romex to UC lights is ugly.


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## Glock23gp (Mar 10, 2014)

So from the xfmr you just run individual runs of stat wire to each cabinet run of tape then wire nut them all back at the xfmr?

Is there a max distance of stat wire you can run to each tape from the xfmr?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Romex to UC lights is ugly.


I don't know how a few inches of romex that no one other than midgets will ever see could be considered ugly :blink:


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

99cents said:


> Romex to UC lights is ugly.


Sorry but that's a ******ed statement.

You can't see the Romex when it's inside the fixture.


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

Glock23gp said:


> So from the xfmr you just run individual runs of stat wire to each cabinet run of tape then wire nut them all back at the xfmr?
> Yes.
> 
> Is there a max distance of stat wire you can run to each tape from the xfmr?


I don't know. I feel confident that there isn't a kitchen big enough for a dramatic enough of a voltage drop through tstat wire. 




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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Glock23gp said:


> So from the xfmr you just run individual runs of stat wire to each cabinet run of tape then wire nut them all back at the xfmr?
> 
> Is there a max distance of stat wire you can run to each tape from the xfmr?


A home run to the driver up to the maximum watts of the driver. The Ikea driver has a multi-port thingy to feed different locations.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I don't know how a few inches of romex that no one other than midgets will ever see could be considered ugly :blink:


Easier to hide thermostat wire and no shadow from the bigger cable.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Easier to hide thermostat wire and no shadow from the bigger cable.


Shadow? Hide cable?

Maybe we are talking about something different.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Shadow? Hide cable?
> 
> Maybe we are talking about something different.


Led's are low profile and thermostat wire is easy to conceal. Sometimes there's a cavity between the cabinet and the wall where you can stuff the excess wire. It's particularly nice with cabinets with no valence. I like it to be neat even if it's not easily seen.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Any light that will accept romex with be wide enough that the romex won't make a shadow. I don't see how a couple inches of romex coming out of the wall into the back of the light is any uglier than any other wire.

I thought it might have just been me until Spec agreed.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Any light that will accept romex with be wide enough that the romex won't make a shadow. I don't see how a couple inches of romex coming out of the wall into the back of the light is any uglier than any other wire.
> 
> I thought it might have just been me until Spec agreed.


Any 120V LED under cabinet fixture I've seen is a big, ugly box with the LED's spaced 2" apart. Not the kind of thing I would install.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Any 120V LED under cabinet fixture I've seen is a big, ugly box with the LED's spaced 2" apart. Not the kind of thing I would install.


Back to my first post, I am looking for a nice inexpensive LED UC light to start installing.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

99cents said:


> Any 120V LED under cabinet fixture I've seen is a big, ugly box with the LED's spaced 2" apart. Not the kind of thing I would install.


just installed some of those big ugly boxes on Thursday......made almost $1000 in 3 1/2 hours

yeah that sucked


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Back to my first post, I am looking for a nice inexpensive LED UC light to start installing.


I told you what I use already.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> I told you what I use already.


120V. Jeeze.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

drspec said:


> just installed some of those big ugly boxes on Thursday......made almost $1000 in 3 1/2 hours
> 
> yeah that sucked


How does that relate to the product I prefer to install?


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

CSL lighting, Kichler, American Fluorescent


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> 120V. Jeeze.


No comprende.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

99cents said:


> How does that relate to the product I prefer to install?


youre trying to make a strip light sound like an inferior product and youre installing IKEA garbage

Isnt IKEA swedish for junk?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> No comprende.


Sometimes I think 360max hacked into your account and is posting under your username.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Hax, Econolight has some LED strips as well that are priced pretty reasonbly

havent used them yet but have been tempted

I get such good pricing for the CSL im reluctant to change


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

drspec said:


> youre trying to make a strip light sound like an inferior product and youre installing IKEA garbage
> 
> Isnt IKEA swedish for junk?


I first starting installing it as customer supplied because they bought it along with the cabinets. I'm buying it for the jobs I supply now because the pricing is good, it's easy to install and the light quality is good. I had one complaint about a noisy driver. The customer could hear it but nobody else could. That's the only callback I have had but I only started supplying it myself. I don' think it's junk. I re-fixtured a home with customer supplied Ikea and was surprised at the quality and how easy they went up.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

99cents said:


> I first starting installing it as customer supplied because they bought it along with the cabinets. I'm buying it for the jobs I supply now because the pricing is good, it's easy to install and the light quality is good. I had one complaint about a noisy driver. The customer could hear it but nobody else could. That's the only callback I have had but I only started using it. I don' think it's junk. I re-fixtured a home with customer supplied Ikea and was surprised at the quality and how easy they went up.


I too have installed IKEA fixtures and hated every second of it.
Those lights were some of the worst junk Ive installed in my 20 years in the business.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

drspec said:


> I too have installed IKEA fixtures and hated every second of it.
> Those lights were some of the worst junk Ive installed in my 20 years in the business.


Different experiences I guess.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

drspec said:


> I too have installed IKEA fixtures and hated every second of it.
> Those lights were some of the worst junk Ive installed in my 20 years in the business.


You obviously don't know how to follow the instructions !










:notworthy:


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## jenoonan (Oct 24, 2016)

NDC said:


> What are you guys using for under cabonet lighting. I have some lady asking me to do a few but would be my first supply and install for this. I have installed xenon undercabinet fixtures but that was like 20 years ago.
> Should I go LED or stick to T5?
> Should I go with the brightest I can find?




We've been using Kichler LED tape light. It's versatile and they offer a couple of different tracks for it that accommodate a diffusing lens for a nice even light. We generally stick to 2700K or 3000K for residential lighting applications.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

jenoonan said:


> We've been using Kichler LED tape light. It's versatile and they offer a couple of different tracks for it that accommodate a diffusing lens for a nice even light. We generally stick to 2700K or 3000K for residential lighting applications.


That's what I've been using for about a year, Kitchler LED Tape. On today's installation, the transformer/driver was different than in the past. I had it on a Lutron Diva Led dimmer and it would pulse. The supplier called Kichler and now the new transformer can only be used with a Legrand ADTP703TUM4. This dimmer doesn't match anything in the house and cost's $70.
Have you experienced this yet?


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## jenoonan (Oct 24, 2016)

We've been having difficulties on a couple of different jobs recently with various LED lighting products when dimming. I would contact Lutron or go to their website and find a transformer that meets your electrical requirements (voltage and wattage) and that they have already tested and found to be compatible with the dimmer you would like to use. Were you using an electronic low voltage dimmer with an electronic driver?


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

jenoonan said:


> We've been having difficulties on a couple of different jobs recently with various LED lighting products when dimming. I would contact Lutron or go to their website and find a transformer that meets your electrical requirements (voltage and wattage) and that they have already tested and found to be compatible with the dimmer you would like to use. Were you using an electronic low voltage dimmer with an electronic driver?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The dimmer was 120V Lutron Diva LED dimmer. It's what we used all year with out a problem. Now Kichler redesigned the driver and it's not compatible. I'll check Lutron's site, thanks.


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