# Best approach to drilling through top plate in eves?



## FastFokker (Sep 18, 2012)

Havent tried it, but I'll agree the right angle drill is a POS. not sure what you're supposed to use it on, I can barely get it to drill through a 2x4.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

They make short augers and use this drill. I never had a problem unless you physically can't get there.


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## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

Real funky angles a short forsner bit helps too because you can kinda go from any angle or even approach from the edge or corner of the plate.


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## jarhead0531 (Jun 1, 2010)

If it is that tight I will just tell the homeowner that I have to make a hole in the wall and drill up, BUT that is always the last resort.


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## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

jarhead0531 said:


> If it is that tight I will just tell the homeowner that I have to make a hole in the wall and drill up, BUT that is always the last resort.


Ever send a long auger through a roof?


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## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

I know exactly what you mean. I used to pretend they're was 200 dollars sitting there in that eve. All I had to do was crawl my azz back there and drill it. PITA I love commercial work....


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

FastFokker said:


> Havent tried it, but I'll agree the right angle drill is a POS. not sure what you're supposed to use it on, I can barely get it to drill through a 2x4.


I'd disagree with that, I've placed the entire drill in a box hole and drilled up through dwangs adding 300mm quick change 1/4 hex bits onto a 25mm spade bit. Just keep them sharp with a file. I've also had it running too hot to hold so wrapped my fluro vest around it. Definantly worth the money for me.


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## jarhead0531 (Jun 1, 2010)

Goldagain said:


> Ever send a long auger through a roof?


Nope. Never have and never will....i hope


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

jarhead0531 said:


> Nope. Never have and never will....i hope


Never say never...nothing a whole tube of bathroom caulk or roofing tar wont fix. :shifty:


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## FastFokker (Sep 18, 2012)

chewy said:


> I'd disagree with that, I've placed the entire drill in a box hole and drilled up through dwangs adding 300mm quick change 1/4 hex bits onto a 25mm spade bit. Just keep them sharp with a file. I've also had it running too hot to hold so wrapped my fluro vest around it. Definantly worth the money for me.


I'm so Americanized I have no idea if what you're saying is impressive or could be done by hand twisting a drill bit. Lol

I seriously was not impressed with the angle drill.. I will try it again one day with some different spade bits. Hopefully it works, because I was really pumped about getting one.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

FastFokker said:


> I'm so Americanized I have no idea if what you're saying is impressive or could be done by hand twisting a drill bit. Lol
> 
> I seriously was not impressed with the angle drill.. I will try it again one day with some different spade bits. Hopefully it works, because I was really pumped about getting one.


I drilled up through fireblocking with a 1 inch spadebit.


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## FastFokker (Sep 18, 2012)

what! 

I couldn't even get mine to drill through a soft 2x4 with a bit around the size of 3/4". I'm going to go kick it's a$$ for being lazy and put it to work on the next rough in or kill it.


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## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

jarhead0531 said:


> Nope. Never have and never will....i hope


Me either :yes::yes:


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

FastFokker said:


> what!
> 
> I couldn't even get mine to drill through a soft 2x4 with a bit around the size of 3/4". I'm going to go kick it's a$$ for being lazy and put it to work on the next rough in or kill it.


It was a sharp bit though buddy.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Sometimes you have to start the hole with a 4" stubby 1" spade bit.. go as far into the wood as possible...

Then switch over to a 6" long 3/4" spade bit to finish the hole....

I also carry (3) 4' X 12" pine boards for laying on top of the ceiling beams in the attic...

HD sells them already pre-cut.. working in an attic without them and you are not _*working smart*_...


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Spadbits are cheap enough to cut to desired length wth a bandsaw.


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## 3D Electric (Mar 24, 2013)

I've found that I use my m12 hammer drill in attics and if it's too far out on the eves there is a flexible 90degree attachment that I use with a stubby Bosch daredevil bit. I usually use a 3/4 bit


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## UncleMike (Jan 2, 2013)

Thanks for all the replies so far. I notice nobody mentioned using long flex bits. Are they really that much of a last resort?



3D Electric said:


> I've found that I use my m12 hammer drill in attics and if it's too far out on the eves there is a flexible 90degree attachment that I use with a stubby Bosch daredevil bit. I usually use a 3/4 bit


What 90 degree attachment are you using?


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## 3D Electric (Mar 24, 2013)

UncleMike said:


> Thanks for all the replies so far. I notice nobody mentioned using long flex bits. Are they really that much of a last resort?
> 
> What 90 degree attachment are you using?


It's cheap and doesn't last long but works great when you need it! Think flexible bit holder


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## 3D Electric (Mar 24, 2013)

3D Electric said:


> It's cheap and doesn't last long but works great when you need it! Think flexible bit holder


Not think I meant Ryobi


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## 3D Electric (Mar 24, 2013)

3D Electric said:


> It's cheap and doesn't last long but works great when you need it! Think flexible bit holder


BTW you have to use the Bosch daredevils because they have a corkscrew tip on a paddle bit and it will pull itself through the wood. Just a little push is necessary at the very end.


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

Goldagain said:


> Ever send a long auger through a roof?


Huh? :whistling2:


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Pop the soffit and drill from outside. :thumbup:


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

I use this with a 1/4" short spade bit. I also try to lay on some plywood.


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## CooperElec (May 6, 2013)

I was about to smash my Dewalt 20V right angle drill on the floor because it couldn't turn a spadebit into a relatively newer 2X4. But then I realized that while squeezing in and trying to get the drill in place I switched it over to the high speed setting :laughing:

I checked all of the 18V right angle drills, they all have pretty crappy torque. I'm not sure why...


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## UncleMike (Jan 2, 2013)

crazyboy said:


> Pop the soffit and drill from outside. :thumbup:


I've done that before. Unfortunately on the most recent job the other side of the eves wasn't outside. The two parts of the attic were sealed off from each other, and I was in the attic over the garage, drilling where the yellow dot is:


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## UncleMike (Jan 2, 2013)

CooperElec said:


> I was about to smash my Dewalt 20V right angle drill on the floor because it couldn't turn a spadebit into a relatively newer 2X4. But then I realized that while squeezing in and trying to get the drill in place I switched it over to the high speed setting :laughing:
> 
> I checked all of the 18V right angle drills, they all have pretty crappy torque. I'm not sure why...


My 10-year-old DeWalt XRP right angle drill had over 300 in-lbs of torque on speed 1. On speed 2 it was comparable to the Milwaukee, which only has one speed.


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## UncleMike (Jan 2, 2013)

jw0445 said:


> I use this with a 1/4" short spade bit. I also try to lay on some plywood.


I've seen those online, and almost bought one instead of the right angle drill, but figured it would be tougher to handle than a right angle drill alone, and would require me to get my hand right above of the top plate. With the drill I can get another 6" of reach, but with the measly torque that thing puts out it's almost not worth it.

I know that model specifically has a pretty decent torque limit. Is it easy to handle when it binds up or a lot of torque is needed?


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

UncleMike said:


> I've seen those online, and almost bought one instead of the right angle drill, but figured it would be tougher to handle than a right angle drill alone, and would require me to get my hand right above of the top plate. With the drill I can get another 6" of reach, but with the measly torque that thing puts out it's almost not worth it.
> 
> I know that model specifically has a pretty decent torque limit. Is it easy to handle when it binds up or a lot of torque is needed?


It's a two handed operation. One for downward pressure and one on the trigger. It'll spin the drill against the ceiling or roof before it will break the right angle.


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## Hippie (May 12, 2011)

Dennis Alwon said:


> They make short augers and use this drill. I never had a problem unless you physically can't get there.


If you're not doing this you're doing it wrong.


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## Hippie (May 12, 2011)

cultch said:


> I know exactly what you mean. I used to pretend they're was 200 dollars sitting there in that eve. All I had to do was crawl my azz back there and drill it. PITA I love commercial work....


Haha me too.. generally gives me to motivation to get those crappy tasks finished


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## forgotflying (Mar 2, 2011)

If the house has corrugated metal roofing, which most do in my area.
I'll sometimes pull a sheet off.


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## ptcrtn (Mar 14, 2011)

I once removed roof shingles drilled hole down thru roof and top plate. Then replace shingles.


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