# Hub holes on Murray Panel not threaded



## swimmer (Mar 19, 2011)

I just bought a JA2040B1200F Murray Panel at Home Depot made for top feed only. 

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

It takes a 2" RX hub which I bought. Everything lines up but the holes, in the top of the panel, for the hub screws are not threaded. Nor is the metal at the screw holes thick enough to tap. I attached the hub with the screws provided, with the hub, and then added my own nuts. I don't like this because I'm concerned about nuts coming loose over time in the meter jaw / busbar area. I have not installed many panels but I've never seen hub holes that were not threaded. 

Has anybody dealt with this already?
Are there different types of 2" RX hubs?
I contacted Murray and am waiting for a reply from tech support.


----------



## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Yep, use lock washers !! That service should have taken you 6 hrs ! You are over budget now.


----------



## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

Did it have a cap with screws? Did you buy a Murry hub? The screws that come with the hub should be self threading.


----------



## swimmer (Mar 19, 2011)

Mr Rewire said:


> Did it have a cap with screws? Did you buy a Murry hub? The screws that come with the hub should be self threading.



They were machine screws and the holes to receive them in the panel were like 1/4" knockouts.


----------



## swimmer (Mar 19, 2011)

Mr Rewire said:


> Did it have a cap with screws? Did you buy a Murry hub? The screws that come with the hub should be self threading.





dronai said:


> Yep, use lock washers !! That service should have taken you 6 hrs ! You are over budget now.



I have to install new screws too because the ones that came with the hub are barely long enough to thread through the nuts.


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Get some 10-32's or 1/4-20's with nuts and lock washers and get it done for pete's sake.


----------



## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Use the greenlee power threader and the appropriate screw, next time buy a reputable panel instead of junk.


----------



## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Shockdoc said:


> Use the greenlee power threader and the appropriate screw, next time buy a reputable panel instead of junk.


Our areas really push Murray. I use those, or Square D if there out of Murray. I did see Cutler Hammer at Lowes the other day.


----------



## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

dronai said:


> Our areas really push Murray. I use those, or Square D if there out of Murray. I did see Cutler Hammer at Lowes the other day.


Same around here, only a couple SHs sell sqyareD and CHCH.I only install junk panels(murray,CHBR) for price shopper customers who will most likely call around in the future. The loyals get the good stuff.


----------



## swimmer (Mar 19, 2011)

swimmer said:


> I just bought a JA2040B1200F Murray Panel at Home Depot made for top feed only.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
> 
> ...




Answer: Don't need a hub for a semi-flush installation. Just run the conduit straight into the knockout. Not sure why they say RX Hub on the box and instructions. It made me think it was required.


----------



## 19kilosparky984 (Sep 14, 2011)

swimmer said:


> I just bought a JA2040B1200F Murray Panel at Home Depot made for top feed only


 
There is your problem right there


----------



## MF Dagger (Dec 24, 2007)

I don't think I've ever seen a meter socket with the hub holes tapped. I use Milbank and Landis & Gyr and neither to my recollection are tapped. The hubs just have self threading screws.


----------



## SparkYZ (Jan 20, 2010)

swimmer said:


> I just bought a JA2040B1200F Murray Panel at Home Depot made for top feed only.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
> 
> ...


I had the same problem. Just used screws and nuts


----------



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

19kilosparky984 said:


> There is your problem right there


I would only go there if it were a late Saturday or Sunday emergency. Those big box stores really hurt our trade by allowing any handyman to walk in and buy everything needed for a 200amp meter change. 
Also, its a fact that I can purchase everything I need for a job at my local supply house and the bottom line will be less than a big box store.
They bait people in on romex prices but will sell the fittings at 3x the price I pay for them.


----------



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

swimmer said:


> Answer: Don't need a hub for a semi-flush installation. Just run the conduit straight into the knockout. Not sure why they say RX Hub on the box and instructions. It made me think it was required.


All of our houses are concrete block here, I have never seen, touched or installed on of those flush type metercans.


----------



## GatewaySparky (Jul 23, 2010)

jrannis said:


> I would only go there if it were a late Saturday or Sunday emergency. Those big box stores really hurt our trade by allowing any handyman to walk in and buy everything needed for a 200amp meter change.
> Also, its a fact that I can purchase everything I need for a job at my local supply house and the bottom line will be less than a big box store.
> They bait people in on romex prices but will sell the fittings at 3x the price I pay for them.


Oh, I don't know.... My supply house shafts me once in a while; a little too often, actually. Enough so that I have to watch every invoice and ticket. Competitive on most things, but don't you dare get any specialty items.


----------



## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

Shockdoc said:


> Use the greenlee power threader and the appropriate screw, next time buy a reputable panel instead of junk.


Every time someone says Murray is junk, I'd like to show them the Murray panel (100amp meter/main) that I installed over 25 years ago at my brother-in-law's house where they have an electric range, big A/C unit and lots of computers running continuously and that panel has not one damn thing wrong with it. I have NEVER had to change a breaker, including the main, and the bus is still in perfect condition. 

FPE, Zinsco and GE slims are junk. 

Murray, Bryant, C/H, Homeline are all panels I have installed/added to over many years and I have yet to see a failure with any of them. 

Now So Cal has a milder climate in most areas so that may be a factor in how ANY panel performs as opposed to areas with harsher climates.


----------



## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

mxslick said:


> Every time someone says Murray is junk, I'd like to show them the Murray panel (100amp meter/main) that I installed over 25 years ago at my brother-in-law's house where they have an electric range, big A/C unit and lots of computers running continuously and that panel has not one damn thing wrong with it. I have NEVER had to change a breaker, including the main, and the bus is still in perfect condition.
> 
> FPE, Zinsco and GE slims are junk.
> 
> ...


Your climate might be the case, I lost count long ago of all the Murray mains, and buses if not panels I had to replace from burn outs.


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

mxslick said:


> Every time someone says Murray is junk, I'd like to show them the Murray panel (100amp meter/main) that I installed over 25 years ago at my brother-in-law's house where they have an electric range, big A/C unit and lots of computers running continuously and that panel has not one damn thing wrong with it. I have NEVER had to change a breaker, including the main, and the bus is still in perfect condition.


All of which means absolutely nothing, nothing at all. :no:

We could also find pristine examples of FPE, GE or Zinsco.

It is no different then a Chevy, Ford, Dodge argument, it is all unsubstantiated personal opinion .... including this post.


----------



## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

I love FPE equipment. I have worked places where my coffee never, ever got cold. It was amazing.


----------

