# Exiting home under deck



## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Teck 90. Skin what you need to get back into the house and the strap/trench at your leisure.


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

I'm not sure I understand your question. Could you please re-phrase or clarify.

The conduit will be 36" above the ground but under a deck?

If so, anything suitable for wet locations would be fine. I would run either sch 80 PVC or rigid. And make sure it is supported properly. Just keep in mind if they are individual circuits for pool equipment you need to run a ground of the wire type(#12 or larger). All individual circuits need to be GFCI protected. If its a feeder it doesn't have to be GFCI but the individual circuits need to be GFCI protected. Also the ground from the pool light junction box needs to be un-broken from the junction box all the way to the panel that feeds the circuit.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I guess my initial thought would be to strap pvc conduit to the bottom of the joists under the deck, come to the end and transition to an LB and enter the ground through and expansion joint. Probably an expansion joint horizontal under the deck. Use plenty of pvc two hole straps under the deck to deal with sagging. Depending on your area and what they consider subject to physical damage, you may need schedule 80 going into and emerging from the ground.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I think I understand the question, you don't want to trench under the deck, so what do you do with the exposed conduit? If you don't bury it, you have to secure / support it and it has to be protected from physical damage. 

Of course the most obvious thing to do is attach it to the structure, there's no question about the securing / supporting, so you could go up, across the joists, and down one of the posts, offset into the ground. 

How about going along the ground to the handhole? I have tried to find a code rule against running a conduit right on the ground, and I have never found one, as long as it's secured / supported and protected from physical damage. (You might get into other building codes / safety codes if it's a trip hazard ... not an issue here.) The problem is what do you secure it to across the ground? 

You could bury a cinder block flush with grade. You could drive strut stakes and attach to that. But if they heave, it could be very bad news. Digging far enough down to get where you can rely on them not heaving - that might be more trouble than just digging the trench under the deck. If you come out in RMC rather than PVC you can trench only 6" right?


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## oldsparky52 (Feb 25, 2020)

If you follow the deck framing and go into the ground on one of the posts, I might consider installing a pull box or C condulet on that post.


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## controlled_electric (Jul 6, 2019)

joe-nwt said:


> Teck 90. Skin what you need to get back into the house and the strap/trench at your leisure.


I don't think they have teck90 in the USA


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Why is an LB coming out of the house with a piece of sch 80 pvc going into the ground at the proper depth not the way you plan to go?

You are tryign to avoid trenching under the deck?


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

Don't know what the issue is. Pipe out of the house under the deck and down one of the posts. Put in a PVC FSC box as a pull point going down the post. Expansion coupling below and trench from there. If it's between 6 and 20 ft to the pool from this FSC box, then install your convenience outlet for the pool right there. Otherwise, just a blank cover.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Do you guys not have a cable approved for both exposed and burial?


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

99cents said:


> Do you guys not have a cable approved for both exposed and burial?


Liquidtight MC.
Kind of like Teck, but the wires inside are like MC - Twisted solid THHN/THWN with a clear plastic loosely wrapped around it, I believe your Teck is more like Liquidtite with tray cable preinstalled.
Either way, most of us avoid using metal for wiring pools to avoid having to do extra bonding.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

JoeSparky said:


> Liquidtight MC.
> Kind of like Teck, but the wires inside are like MC - Twisted solid THHN/THWN with a clear plastic loosely wrapped around it, I believe your Teck is more like Liquidtite with tray cable preinstalled.
> Either way, most of us avoid using metal for wiring pools to avoid having to do extra bonding.


We don’t have many pools here. We have skating rinks.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Do you guys not have a cable approved for both exposed and burial?


You can use UF cable exposed as long as it isn't exposed to physical damage. Fastened to the joist under a deck is fine. Sleeved in PVC pipe down into the ground would work. But most people would rather run pipe in the ground, and separate conductors are better for that, so it makes sense just to run PVC the whole way. It's super easy to work with.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

HackWork said:


> You can use UF cable exposed as long as it isn't exposed to physical damage. Fastened to the joist under a deck is fine. *Sleeved in PVC pipe down into the ground would work.*



680.21 would like to have a word with you


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

@99cents Can you tell Joe that I was only replying to your post here, thanks. 


99cents said:


> Do you guys not have a cable approved for both exposed and burial?


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

HackWork said:


> @*99cents* Can you tell Joe that I was only replying to your post here, thanks.


So, you are not going to explain where it is code compliant to wire a pool pump with UF? 

Let me guess.... I'm gay :no: and the code is wrong. 
I don't care what the book says. No way in hell I'm wiring a pool with that shovel magnet garbage wire.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Can someone tell Joe for the second time that I was only replying to 99cent's question (post below for a second time), which did not include anything about pool wiring. Thanks.

He is getting a little mad, so be gentle when you tell him. I don't want him nerdraging on a Sunday.





99cents said:


> Do you guys not have a cable approved for both exposed and burial?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> @99cents Can you tell Joe that I was only replying to your post here, thanks.


I think Joe has penetrated your fortress.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> I think Joe has penetrated your fortress.


Please don't talk about penetration out in the open, this is a professional electricians forum, for God's sake.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

HackWork said:


> Please don't talk about penetration out in the open, this is a professional electricians forum, for God's sake.


You are getting me all hot and sweaty. You know that alligator penetration is my fetish.
:vs_laugh::no::no:


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

99cents said:


> Do you guys not have a cable approved for both exposed and burial?


I'm sure we do, but, this is a residence not a cheap industrial/commercial install.


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## Dan the electricman (Jan 2, 2011)

JoeSparky said:


> Liquidtight MC.Kind of like Teck, but the wires i nside are like MC - Twisted solid THHN/THWN with a clear plastic loosely wrapped around it, I believe your Teck is more like Liquidtite with tray cable preinstalled.


I have never seen this here. Do you get it at a supply house?


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

Dan the electricman said:


> I have never seen this here. Do you get it at a supply house?



I got it here last time i needed it
https://www.ew-ne.com/mc-pvc-12-2-c...cpvc-mc-armored-cable-12-2-1000-ft-reel-63675

Yes @MTW it was EW 
EW is a USESI company. If you have a SH owned by them, the part number will work there too. The waterproof connectors for it are stupid expensive though

Better pic here
https://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cab...ft-MC-Parking-Deck-Cable-2304-42-00/204794353


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

JoeSparky said:


> I got it here last time i needed it
> https://www.ew-ne.com/mc-pvc-12-2-c...cpvc-mc-armored-cable-12-2-1000-ft-reel-63675
> 
> Yes @MTW it was EW
> ...



Wow, I pay less for Teck and it’s indestructible.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Wow, I pay less for Teck and it’s indestructible.


But don't the connectors cost like $1,500 loonies?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> But don't the connectors cost like $1,500 loonies?


Somewhere around ten loonies for that size. What do you pay for a liquid tight connector for the coated MC? The Teck connector has kind of a springy thingy in it for bonding.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

99cents said:


> Wow, I pay less for Teck and it’s indestructible.


I'm sure it is just supply and demand. I would guess only 1/3 of the electricians in the US even know that PVC coated MC even exists, so it is a slow moving item.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Price comparison may not be accurate, because, in the US we don't use Teck-like cable as much as Romex. I hope you get my drift.
What @JoeSparky said.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

99cents said:


> Somewhere around ten loonies for that size. What do you pay for a liquid tight connector for the coated MC? The Teck connector has kind of a springy thingy in it for bonding.


That size is just under $12usd right now. They have the springy snap in connection inside like the Arlington snap in BX connectors and a rubber seal at the end like a cord connector

https://content-eu-7.content-cms.co...US/Datasheets/10440903-Datasheet-77374411.pdf


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

JoeSparky said:


> I got it here last time i needed it
> https://www.ew-ne.com/mc-pvc-12-2-c...cpvc-mc-armored-cable-12-2-1000-ft-reel-63675
> 
> Yes @*MTW* it was EW
> ...


I've seen it a few times but have never used it. It's far from common. We're not nearly as in love with it as Canadians are with their Teck.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

MTW said:


> I've seen it a few times but have never used it. It's far from common. We're not nearly as in love with it as Canadians are with their Teck.


I had a ductless split to wire in a 4 story brick condo building. A/C guys already non-compliantly ran the TC-ER-JP 14/4 between outside and inside. I didn't run it.....not my problem. 
The outside portion was 65' away from where we exited the building. Didn't want to splice it until I got into the condo unit. PVC, carflex and splicing would have complicated the job to the point that the $125 for the MC and connectors was far less then the alternative with the labor


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

JoeSparky said:


> I'm sure it is just supply and demand. I would guess only 1/3 of the electricians in the US even know that PVC coated MC even exists, so it is a slow moving item.


In some areas it is such a slow moving or dead item that I picked up two rolls of 12/2 several years back for $110.00 each. The SH just wanted to get rid of it.


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