# Under cabinet lights



## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

I stuff romex out of the wall and then slam the UC light in there.

A weekend or two ago I wired for UC lights in my kitchen. I had a couple scraps of 120V rope light that I threw in there; they were supposed to be plugin but I cut the ends off and spliced them in a shallow Wiremold box on the underside of the cabinet.

They were decidedly underwhelming :laughing: I'm gonna replace them with some sort of LED strips at some point. The hard part is done, though (wiring).


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

I use 18/2 for LV under cabinets, cut the tails of whatever the light is, and crimp using butt splice connectors. Hide the wiring in a channel cut into the false bottom in the cabinet.

If it's a reeeeally long run, I'll bump up to 14/2.


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## Blayney86 (Jan 18, 2013)

I always have hardwired ones with a 14/2 whip out of the wall and slam the light tight to the wall.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

I find a place to hide the driver and install a receptacle connected to a switch.
For the load side,
I have been using FPL type (fire alarm cable) for quite some time now. It's easy to conceal.
I was using butt splices to comment them and then started using those two wire fixture disconnects.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/53..._sncSJg4Re_PLA__25122938944_t_S&026=-99&025=t


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

RJEJ84 said:


> Wondering what everyone's standard is on installation. Since pretty much every under cabinet style light fixture I've ever installed comes with a cord/plug setup, I've always cut the plug off and spliced my SL to the cord. I was never "taught" the "right" way to do them. I've never had any issue or call back for one. How does everyone else do them?


How would you ever think that's the right way to do it regardless of what you were taught? 

Buy a fixture that you can wire and not a portable fixture.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Why are you guys hillbilly wiring something as simple as undercabinet lights?


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

Usually because UG, OC, or InC luminaires are subject to the cabinetry , which most times isn't chosen @ rough 99

My personal pet peeves include exposed nm, lack of cabinetry light bar , and a general lack of plan by designers , archy's , cabinet suppliers who all insist on our installs being _after the facts_

~CS~


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

This is my standard now. Around here, they're barely more expensive than the sticky back tape lights and install very easily. Joiners and jumpers come supplied. 

www.rabdesign.ca/files/products/760_272200.pdf


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

_Interesting_ 99

this part gets high marks>



> 1 Dimmable using a regular incandescent dimmer.


~CS~


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

FrunkSlammer said:


> I use 18/2 for LV under cabinets, cut the tails of whatever the light is, and crimp using butt splice connectors. Hide the wiring in a channel cut into the false bottom in the cabinet.
> 
> If it's a reeeeally long run, I'll bump up to 14/2.


This, this and this:


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

The only time I splice is when the factory jumpers aren't long enough or if I'm running 18/2 during rough-in. You hardwire these things, you don't cut off cord ends. You really have to quit buying UC lighting at Walmart  .


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