# Large holesaws



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Sawzall.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

HackWork said:


> Sawzall.




Ahhhhh , I don't like this one bit! 


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

WronGun said:


> Ahhhhh , I don't like this one bit!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You could try using an adjustable holecutter, like the ones used for recessed lights. But I would just use a sawzall like they have been doing for decades. I've used my old 18V Dewalt and have gotten thru some pretty tough walls. 

Remember that an 8"+ holesaw is going to bog down most drills. I don't even know if a hole hawg is rated for that size. If you hit that old tar or asbestos crap on top of the sheathing it can get rough.


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

rotozip.

multitool.

drywall saw.

sawzall.

jigsaw.

one of these pieces of crap (for drywall).https://www.amazon.com/Hole-Pro-X-230-Twin-Blade/dp/B001PI8S6O/ref=pd_day0_469_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PI8S6O&pd_rd_r=Q7ESVPYZ1744XMGHD33H&pd_rd_w=slDBr&pd_rd_wg=BwqJb&psc=1&refRID=Q7ESVPYZ1744XMGHD33H


I honestly can't remember ever paying over 150 for an individual hole saw that wasn't diamond bit.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

wildleg said:


> rotozip.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I bought this kit about 4 yrs ago and have yet to use it ! 

I mostly install 6" vents and use the 6 1/4" Milwaukee carbide red hole saw for this. It literally cuts through anything like butter . 

My clients who cook with strong ingredients are looking at 900+ cfm fans with large ducts.... I need to go through exterior , interior , cabinets , ect. A nice hole saw makes such great sense , but damn they get pricey after 6" 

I just found a site that makes custom hole saws and 8 1/4" deep was just under $300


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## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

I HATE putting in range hoods. I work with this remodeler that likes crazy ones, and it's always lathe and plaster. Sawzall usually gets the job. I bought a 6" carbide hole saw and it dulled so fast, and I got a whole pack of sawzall blades for less.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

matt1124 said:


> I HATE putting in range hoods. I work with this remodeler that likes crazy ones, and it's always lathe and plaster. Sawzall usually gets the job. I bought a 6" carbide hole saw and it dulled so fast, and I got a whole pack of sawzall blades for less.




I don't like it either but I charge $600-$800 per install , so it's worth it on my end. 

And it's starting to get real easy with more I do.

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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Have you tried drilling thru brick or block with that Milwaukee holesaw? It says that it could.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

HackWork said:


> Have you tried drilling thru brick or block with that Milwaukee holesaw? It says that it could.




I have not. I did drill through a heavy duty 2x10 it felt like I was cutting paper with a pair of scissors... I was really impressed. 


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Not that it matters, but every single proposal I send out has this - Excluded from this proposal- any ducting or ventilation work.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

macmikeman said:


> Not that it matters, but every single proposal I send out has this - Excluded from this proposal- any ducting or ventilation work.




Just wondering why ? This is money part of the job in my case 


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

You guys are easy.
I would have the GC cut the hole.

Also, 6" duct seems to be a good size.
You can reduce the size of the duct for a penetration. There is a calculation for it. It has to do with the diameter of the duct.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

WronGun said:


> I have not. I did drill through a heavy duty 2x10 it felt like I was cutting paper with a pair of scissors... I was really impressed.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When you get a chance, give me a link to the one that you have please.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> Not that it matters, but every single proposal I send out has this - Excluded from this proposal- any ducting or ventilation work.


Im not licensed for duct work.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Southeast Power said:


> Im not licensed for duct work.


You probably are licensed to do some if it is incidental to the work you are performing, at least that is how it is written into state law here. Florida can get awful goofy though , I've seen it first hand. 

Me, I don't like cutting large holes in floor joist for ducting stupid fart fans so I learned a long time ago to exclude it and save myself from the ass pain work. It's grunt work, and best done by grunts, er , I mean general contractors.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

You could drill it around the circumference a lot, then hit it with a hammer:laughing:


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Milwaukee Big Hawg Hole Saw 6 1/4"
Got mine on Amazon. Around $90-$100










Dewalt also makes one , haven't used one though $60











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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> Not that it matters, but every single proposal I send out has this - Excluded from this proposal- any ducting or ventilation work.


Is the residential construction in Hawaii CBS like here or are they stick built?
I had some T-111 on one of my gable ends and had it lathed and plastered years ago. 
The 6" grit holesaw I use for recessed light remodel cans cut through it pretty good. I haven't seen much 8" duct here for exhaust fans. I would transition that to 6" as soon as I could.


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## active1 (Dec 29, 2009)

Are you saying you want the hole saw 8" deep?
Why?
You can get a 6.25" Milwaukee hole saw at HD for $75.
$58 online
http://http://www.toolnut.com/milwa...MI0ommsYzm1QIVUFx-Ch3LygJEEAQYAyABEgJ-iPD_BwE
They have a large hole saw kit for $140.
It uses a paddle bit for the pilot bit.

Then get a hole saw extension 3-12" for $15-20.
Get a few for different length combinations.

Never used the quick release ones because I got so many of the old set screw.
I almost had enough drill extensions to sit in the truck while making holes.

Wouldn't use a hole hog or super hole hog for hole saws.
If it get hung up the super hole hog will start breaking things.
Bits, extensions, etc. I had a lot of broken tools from that thing.

Would use a heavy variable speed 1/2" chuck straight corded drill with side handles.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Instead of using a self feed bit to drill thru the thick sheathing and rim joist of a house for a service entrance conduit, I was thinking about using one of those holesaws. 

Self feed bits have to do a lot of work turning the entire hole into wood shavings while the holesaw only cuts the thin edge.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

No the holesaw is 8 1/4" width , but deep unlike recessed can holesaws. 

The (2) 900 cfm exhaust fans we are looking are very Specific in the installation manual 

***Do not use duct smaller than 8" 

I do not want liabilities on a $1300-$1500 exhaust fan. I simply upcharge for ducts above 6"


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Your vent on the outside has a trim ring/base doesnt it? I just mark it out with a sharpie, drill a couple pilot holes, and go to town with the sawzall. You could also go to rectangular duct, which is nice since the vent hood is lower profile. An oscillating multitool works great for those.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> Not that it matters, but every single proposal I send out has this - Excluded from this proposal- any ducting or ventilation work.


Or the installation of any appliances. I will be present for hook up though[emoji3] 

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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

WronGun said:


> I just found a site that makes custom hole saws and 8 1/4" deep was just under $300
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What do you intend to use to power a holesaw that large?

I hope you weigh 400# because I've seen some pretty big guys get tossed around with a 6" saw when it binds.

I've had a 6 1/4" bind up and smoke a 1/2" magnum drill.


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## socket2ya (Oct 27, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> What do you intend to use to power a holesaw that large?
> 
> I hope you weigh 400# because I've seen some pretty big guys get tossed around with a 6" saw when it binds.
> 
> I've had a 6 1/4" bind up and smoke a 1/2" magnum drill.


Hole saws that big, youre better off using an 18v battery gun because it has the clutch. I would never stick that thing on a hole hawg


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

I saw a plumber knock all his front teeth out when he jammed a spinning hole saw with pilot bit into a top plate. It was gruesome. It was even worse because it was my Hole Hawg that he borrowed. Blood everywhere.

EDIT: That should read NO pilot bit.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> Instead of using a self feed bit to drill thru the thick sheathing and rim joist of a house for a service entrance conduit, I was thinking about using one of those holesaws.
> 
> Self feed bits have to do a lot of work turning the entire hole into wood shavings while the holesaw only cuts the thin edge.





MechanicalDVR said:


> What do you intend to use to power a holesaw that large?
> 
> I hope you weigh 400# because I've seen some pretty big guys get tossed around with a 6" saw when it binds.
> 
> I've had a 6 1/4" bind up and smoke a 1/2" magnum drill.





socket2ya said:


> Hole saws that big, youre better off using an 18v battery gun because it has the clutch. I would never stick that thing on a hole hawg





RePhase277 said:


> I saw a plumber knock all his front teeth out when he jammed a spinning hole saw with pilot bit into a top plate. It was gruesome. It was even worse because it was my Hole Hawg that he borrowed. Blood everywhere.


The corded super hawg has a clutch. You can always take your time with a hole saw, if you use little pressure and occasionally back it out to it will go slow but it will take less torque. Lube may help too.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

socket2ya said:


> Hole saws that big, youre better off using an 18v battery gun because it has the clutch. I would never stick that thing on a hole hawg


I've had an 18v cordless stop with a much much smaller holesaw, I doubt it would even turn a 6" saw in framing lumber.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

RePhase277 said:


> I saw a plumber knock all his front teeth out when he jammed a spinning hole saw with pilot bit into a top plate. It was gruesome. It was even worse because it was my Hole Hawg that he borrowed. Blood everywhere.


There was a very large apartment complex being built in NJ where a plumber standing on a saw horse drilling a hole for gas pipe in a top plate was found on site dead.

His holehawg bound up and pushed his head into a spike the fascia guys had holding up wall brackets.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

BTW I have not tried the Milwaukee Big Hawg hole saws with three teeth, but I have tried the Lenox that have just one tooth, I think either should be less likely to catch and bind than the usual sawtooth hole saw.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> BTW I have not tried the Milwaukee Big Hawg hole saws with three teeth, but I have tried the Lenox that have just one tooth, I think either should be less likely to catch and bind than the usual sawtooth hole saw.


Agreed but the larger ones I've seen are basically an aluminum wheel with a saw blade screwed in place on the circumference of the wheel.

Haven't seen any that have just a few carbide teeth.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I think Hacks had the correct answer early on in this thread cut the hole for a large duct with a sawzall.


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

wildleg said:


> rotozip.


I don't keep mine on the truck any more but it has circle guide attachment


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## socket2ya (Oct 27, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I've had an 18v cordless stop with a much much smaller holesaw, I doubt it would even turn a 6" saw in framing lumber.


If you put the drill on fast speed and push lightly I'll bet even a crappy Ryobi would spin a sharp 6" hole saw no problem. My Milwaukee-18 pushes the new 4 1/2" hole saw like nothing when venting out dryers


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Agreed but the larger ones I've seen are basically an aluminum wheel with a saw blade screwed in place on the circumference of the wheel.
> 
> Haven't seen any that have just a few carbide teeth.


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## socket2ya (Oct 27, 2016)

I've owned that Lenox one on the bottom. When that thing was new it was the freekin fastest cutting hole saw I've ever used. The tool does get dull quickly though especially after you hit a nail. I'm not good at sharpening things so..


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

It's not supposed to get dull, especially from nails which are soft metal. It's made for drilling hard metals. I hate when things get dull when they aren't supposed to,


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


>


Are those larger than 6"?

I was referencing 'larger' as bigger than 6".


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

socket2ya said:


> I've owned that Lenox one on the bottom. When that thing was new it was the freekin fastest cutting hole saw I've ever used. The tool does get dull quickly though especially after you hit a nail. I'm not good at sharpening things so..





HackWork said:


> It's not supposed to get dull, especially from nails which are soft metal. It's made for drilling hard metals. I hate when things get dull when they aren't supposed to,


Nails are hard metal, harder than screws in general, that's why they're so hard to cut with pliers. 

But this tool is very easy to sharpen, a tool that's easy to sharpen will have a long useful life. 

Lenox 25312-DIAF1 Diamond Sharpener for One Tooth Hole Cutter


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Are those larger than 6"?
> 
> I was referencing 'larger' as bigger than 6".


Ah I see, I am not sure how big they make these.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> Ah I see, I am not sure how big they make these.


I've been using those Lenox one toothers since they came out and love them.

Yes a couple swipes with a diamond hone and they are like razor blades.


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Sawzall.


Yup. Did my own venting not long ago. Draw where you want the hole. Check for joists of course. Just use a smaller hole saw large enough for the sawzall blade and drill a hole or two just within the circumference, put a good wood blade on and go to town. The flashing should cover any imperefections.

For the ceiling, I would just hand cut with a jab saw.

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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TGGT said:


> Yup. Did my own venting not long ago. Draw where you want the hole. Check for joists of course. Just use a smaller hole saw large enough for the sawzall blade and drill a hole or two just within the circumference, put a good wood blade on and go to town. The flashing should cover any imperefections.
> 
> For the ceiling, I would just hand cut with a jab saw.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk


The only hole I could see being critical at all is if it's exposed in a cabinet and then I'd use a rotozip with a circle cutter.

But then again if it's a commercial style kitchen exhaust it shouldn't be in contact with wood at all in case of a grease fire with in the duct.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

WronGun said:


> *My clients who cook with strong ingredients* are looking at 900+ cfm fans with large ducts.... I need to go through exterior , interior , cabinets , ect.


Just read through the whole thread and saw this.

What are strong ingredients?

They baking car batteries or something?


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## socket2ya (Oct 27, 2016)

Curry is probably the culprit along with fish


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Just read through the whole thread and saw this.
> 
> What are strong ingredients?
> 
> They baking car batteries or something?


Or you have a breaking bad scenario happening. 

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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

Cut a square hole just big enough. Flashing or collars should cover it.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

socket2ya said:


> Curry is probably the culprit along with fish


We cook both often and haven't had a issue I'm aware of.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

zac said:


> Or you have a breaking bad scenario happening.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


That was a thought as well.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

It's not just smoke and fumes but heat I believe. My parents Viking stove said it required a 900+CFM exhaust fan, which requires an 8" or larger duct.


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