# SE cable for range circuit



## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

I'd ask the inspecter...If it were me, i'd try to sell the right wire.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

Nice user name, must be one of the guys from my old company.
:thumbup:
You have it worked out with 250.140. The whole heat-shrinking thing I won't comment on. You need to determine the damage on-site and go from there.


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## crazymurph (Aug 19, 2009)

Replace the whole run with 6/3 CU / ground. All that screwing around and the Polaris connectors costs money and is a waste of time.


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## romexican (Jul 22, 2010)

Not asking what would be cheaper or time-saving. What is code compliant?


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

romexican said:


> Not asking what would be cheaper or time-saving. What is code compliant?


Keep it the same; no need to insulate as long as it is wired as before. Old 6/3, two hots and a ground/N? You should be fine, just don't use the G in the new 6/3...call your AHJ before listening to us though.


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## kbsparky (Sep 20, 2007)

There is no need to insulate the bare conductor since the "neutral" is permitted to be grounded on such circuits.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

It's fine to change wiring type or method in a run in a junction box. As long as the wire is sized correctly I see no problems. Depending on the run it could be quite a bit more expensive to redo the whole run.


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## romexican (Jul 22, 2010)

kbsparky said:


> There is no need to insulate the bare conductor since the "neutral" is permitted to be grounded on such circuits.


what if the jbox contained other grounded circuits?


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

romexican said:


> what if the jbox contained other grounded circuits?


shouldn't matter, just don't mix your stove circuit with the others


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## romexican (Jul 22, 2010)

BuzzKill said:


> shouldn't matter, just don't mix your stove circuit with the others


Is it as simple as that? How can I be sure that the bare neutral and bare ground never touch?


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Don't worry about it. Honestly you have a ground path and the neutral path. They should both be intact back to the panel. It's not really a issue to me if a bare neutral touches some bonded metal. Think if your range wire was ran previously and you have to bond the neutral and ground together. No one thinks twice of doing that.


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

romexican said:


> Damaged portion of the cable is being replaced by #8 THHN in conduit using Polaris insulated splice taps. Metal junction boxes are being used. What's a code compliant way to insulate the bare neutral before connecting it to the new insulated THHN?


Unless 250.140 has changed in the '08 or you have a local code change, you can insulate it all you want, but the grounded circuit conductor still needs to be connected to the metal junction box.

I would use plastic in this case if not otherwise prohibited, especially if there are other circuits with EGC's in the same jb.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

CTshockhazard said:


> I would use plastic in this case if not otherwise prohibited, especially if there are other circuits with EGC's in the same jb.


I agree and will add I don't think there will be a choice but to use a plastic box, I would try to find plastic connectors as well. 

The ones on page 7 of this pdf come to mind.

http://www.arlcatalog.com/NM Cable/Langford_C.pdf


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## romexican (Jul 22, 2010)

CTshockhazard said:


> the grounded circuit conductor still needs to be connected to the metal junction box.


Why? If I have another circuit in the same box, can't I ground the box using its grounding conductor?


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

romexican said:


> Why? If I have another circuit in the same box, can't I ground the box using its grounding conductor?


250.140 requires that the box be grounded. The exception allows the grounded circuit conductor to accomplish the grounding where no EGC exists. 

If there are other circuits in the box that do have an EGC, then you would have a non-compliant N-G bond on the load side of the service.


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