# I-joists



## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

What is the right way to drill an I-joist? Is it truly different for ever manufacturer?

Rookie question I know.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

blueheels2 said:


> What is the right way to drill an I-joist? Is it truly different for ever manufacturer?
> 
> Rookie question I know.


Yes, it is.


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

check to see if there are pre-punched holes.
look carefully and you may notice the outline of the pressing, usually about 1 1/4 diameter.
Other than that, speed bit

However, are you inquiring about the size and location of the holes? in that case, check the shop drawings which came with the joist package, or the manufacturer's website.


NO drilling thru the top or bottom chords

An example


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

Good question! 

Generally larger holes in the center of the member. Look at the engineered drawings or you can use the knockouts.... that don’t knock out. 

Many years ago I had assumed where I could drill those things and ended up having to pay an engineer to come out and approve the holes I drilled instead of ripping it all my HRs and replacing a bunch of TJI’s.


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

five.five-six said:


> Good question!
> 
> Generally larger holes in the center of the member. Look at the engineered drawings or you can use the knockouts.... that don’t knock out.
> 
> Many years ago I had assumed where I could drill those things and ended up having to pay an engineer to come out and approve the holes I drilled instead of ripping it all my HRs and replacing a bunch of TJI’s.


A buddy of mine owned a truss factory who beat into me the consequences of drilling before checking with the manufacturer. Saved me time and money

100% right on about the "don't knock out" part lol


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Like wcord says, there should be pre-punched holes. Sometimes it’s easier to drill through the pre-punched hole than knock it out. The material can be thin so make sure you don’t put a staple through cable or PEX on the opposite side of the joist.


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

Looks like these are iB max-Core I-joists. I don’t see any pre punched or perforated holes. According to this I just drill in the center of the web vertically. Doesn’t say anything about being close to the ends.


https://www.ibewp.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/CND-English-IB-EWP-inc.-Installation-Guide_November-7-2019.pdf


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)




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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

Anyone concur? Don’t feel like hiring a structural engineer lol.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

We worry about a 3/4” hole and then the tinbasher drills a 6” hole beside it. 


wcord said:


> A buddy of mine owned a truss factory who beat into me the consequences of drilling before checking with the manufacturer. Saved me time and money
> 
> 100% right on about the "don't knock out" part lol


Trusses are different. No holes allowed ( at least that’s the rule I follow).


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

99cents said:


> We worry about a 3/4” hole and then the tinbasher drills a 6” hole beside it.
> 
> Trusses are different. No holes allowed ( at least that’s the rule I follow).


He sold ijoists and LVLs. Also made open web floor joists


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

blueheels2 said:


> Anyone concur? Don’t feel like hiring a structural engineer lol.


As long as you follow the layout as per the manufacturer you'll be okay. 
Make sure you have a copy of the instructions for the building inspector.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

blueheels2 said:


> Looks like these are iB max-Core I-joists. I don’t see any pre punched or perforated holes. According to this I just drill in the center of the web vertically. Doesn’t say anything about being close to the ends.
> 
> 
> https://www.ibewp.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/CND-English-IB-EWP-inc.-Installation-Guide_November-7-2019.pdf


Yes, it does.


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

Good catch splatz.


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

Looks like I’m good if I stay out in the center. I’ll be a good 12’ out from the ends anyway and they are 24’ joists. May stay away from where they joined sections together at the factory. Helps I’m only drilling 1” holes. But I sure would love to use the prepunched ones but if they are there I can’t see them.


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

The holes never line up anyway so in some ways they are rather useless.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

What do y’all drill with? Hole saw? Nail eater ? Paddle bit?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

blueheels2 said:


> What do y’all drill with? Hole saw? Nail eater ? Paddle bit?


Daredevil with an extension.


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

For these floor joists? Daredevil or NailEater.

Just make sure you're not drilling into something on the other side...


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## scorpio54 (Jan 24, 2021)

blueheels2 said:


> What is the right way to drill an I-joist? Is it truly different for ever manufacturer?
> 
> Rookie question I know.


The NEC here in the States they require you to drill no less than a 1 1/4" from the edge


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

scorpio54 said:


> The NEC here in the States they require you to drill no less than a 1 1/4" from the edge


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

I use a 1" date devil bit. I think mine are Diablo brand right now. Don't bother with a hole hawg, just use a cordless drill on high speed. Try to keep in mind where you have to drill lvls or paralams so you can line your holes up best on the more stringent limitations on those. Buy a dewalt cable stapler for nailing your romex, as it will save you tons of frustration. Get a 6" and 12" paddle bit extension. Plan your runs so you aren't stapling in to wires on the other side of the tji. Been there, done that. 

Pre-punched holes are a sham because no one lines them up. The first few years it seemed carpenters had them all lined up and they worked great, but anything I've wired in the past 6 or 8 years I completely ignore them and just drill so my holes are in line.


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## Quickservice (Apr 23, 2020)

99cents said:


> We worry about a 3/4” hole and then the tinbasher drills a 6” hole beside it.
> 
> Trusses are different. *No holes allowed* ( at least that’s the rule I follow).


Same here... I don't think I have ever seen exposed truss, it is always in the attic or between floors. So why would you ever want to drill a hole in it?


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> I use a 1" date devil bit. I think mine are Diablo brand right now. Don't bother with a hole hawg, just use a cordless drill on high speed. Try to keep in mind where you have to drill lvls or paralams so you can line your holes up best on the more stringent limitations on those. Buy a dewalt cable stapler for nailing your romex, as it will save you tons of frustration. Get a 6" and 12" paddle bit extension. Plan your runs so you aren't stapling in to wires on the other side of the tji. Been there, done that.
> 
> Pre-punched holes are a sham because no one lines them up. The first few years it seemed carpenters had them all lined up and they worked great, but anything I've wired in the past 6 or 8 years I completely ignore them and just drill so my holes are in line.


Yeah I’ve decided when the money is made on this one I’m buying the stapler. Man what a pain to staple an I joist. Like nailing on a diving board. Seems like it will be a huge time saver.


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

Going_Commando said:


> Pre-punched holes are a sham because no one lines them up. The first few years it seemed carpenters had them all lined up and they worked great, but anything I've wired in the past 6 or 8 years I completely ignore them and just drill so my holes are in line.


Not only that, but it's usually faster to just drill new holes vs. hammering them out. 

I do try to use the pre-punched holes, but it depends on the job, how many I need, it they're lined up or not, etc.


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## mofos be cray (Nov 14, 2016)

Kevin said:


> Not only that, but it's usually faster to just drill new holes vs. hammering them out.
> 
> I do try to use the pre-punched holes, but it depends on the job, how many I need, it they're lined up or not, etc.


I hate when you drill into the ko and it breaks loose and just spins. Then it's just stuck to the bit.


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

mofos be cray said:


> I hate when you drill into the ko and it breaks loose and just spins. Then it's just stuck to the bit.


Yeah, I don't have that issue because I don't drill thru them. When I want to use the pre-punched holes, I use the claw of the hammer to make a hole. How many wires decides if I need to actually remove the whole plug.

New construction? Make a hole with the claw, then bust it out using the hammer as you would normally. 

Running a new wire in a basement that's gonna be finished? Just bust a hole with the claw where the pre-punched hole is and call it good. It will be covered anyway...


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Going_Commando said:


> I use a 1" date devil bit. I think mine are Diablo brand right now. Don't bother with a hole hawg, just use a cordless drill on high speed. Try to keep in mind where you have to drill lvls or paralams so you can line your holes up best on the more stringent limitations on those. Buy a dewalt cable stapler for nailing your romex, as it will save you tons of frustration. Get a 6" and 12" paddle bit extension. Plan your runs so you aren't stapling in to wires on the other side of the tji. Been there, done that.
> 
> Pre-punched holes are a sham because no one lines them up. The first few years it seemed carpenters had them all lined up and they worked great, but anything I've wired in the past 6 or 8 years I completely ignore them and just drill so my holes are in line.


Do you notice any difference between the Bosch and Diablo bits? Diablo is owned by Bosch so I’m wondering if they’re the same, just a different colour.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

99cents said:


> Do you notice any difference between the Bosch and Diablo bits? Diablo is owned by Bosch so I’m wondering if they’re the same, just a different colour.


They are the same. Home Depot just carries the red ones instead of the blue ones now.


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