# TYCO Romex Splice Kit



## MechanicalDVR

Never used them myself but they are common in mobile homes and that type thing.


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## HackWork

I still have one on the truck, never used it.

It looks like a piece of garbage and people said that it's hard to wire up.

If I need to bury a splice, I can make my own bulletproof splice in a handybox with 3M red/yellows. I would trust that more than the Tyco thing.


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## socket2ya

Call me a butcher, but how do you guys feel about UF splice kits if you have to bury a splice behind wall.


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## HackWork

socket2ya said:


> Call me a butcher, but how do you guys feel about UF splice kits if you have to bury a splice behind wall.


I just don't see the point.

Use a box, it's the conventional method to splice wires. The only difference is that you don't have access to it (which isn't a safety issue), everything else is the same.

A UF splice kit isn't rated to contain sparks or whatever.


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## zac

HackWork said:


> I just don't see the point.
> 
> Use a box, it's the conventional method to splice wires. The only difference is that you don't have access to it (which isn't a safety issue), everything else is the same.
> 
> A UF splice kit isn't rated to contain sparks or whatever.


I don't get it neither , unless it's because they paid lots of cash to have it compliant. If your allowed to bury a splice why is not a box allowed to be burried? Maybe the reasoning is that the box is hanging in dead space causing stress on the connections?
Plus today I just replaced a heater that had a burnt, melted wire nut in the metal housing. I can only imagine how the inline splice would have handed that if it was the feed for that heater. 

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## readydave8

socket2ya said:


> if you have to bury a splice behind wall.


Just curious for some examples of times when you have to bury splice behind wall, excluding times when its just more convenient?

Hope this post does not sound rude, I really am curious.


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## zac

readydave8 said:


> Just curious for some examples of times when you have to bury splice behind wall, excluding times when its just more convenient?
> 
> Hope this post does not sound rude, I really am curious.


I have done some bad stuff and only buried a splice once. I was on an Indian casino on the Rez. My foreman told the crew that the plans have changed... bury the boxes! Inspector on site gave the blessing! I protested but we had our orders. The Rez has their own code. 

This was a "pancake" pvc box I made to match the pavers. I'm not proud but it's not buried! I also haven't had a call back.
Please note that I didn't run the conduits the pavers did ahead of me. They gave me the job so I didn't scream about the location of the stub ups.









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## socket2ya

readydave8 said:


> Just curious for some examples of times when you have to bury splice behind wall, excluding times when its just more convenient?
> 
> Hope this post does not sound rude, I really am curious.


Hack said almost the same exact thing early in this thread, but you don't have any b*lls to say anything to him about it do you? Don't go around acting like you haven't done it Mr. Holier than Thou


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## HackWork

readydave8 said:


> Just curious for some examples of times when you have to bury splice behind wall, excluding times when its just more convenient?
> 
> Hope this post does not sound rude, I really am curious.


Funny you asked.

This morning one of the jobs we did at a customer's house was moving the chandelier so it's centered over the table. He didn't want a swag hook nor a cover plate on the old box. The old box had to stay because the switch leg wouldn't reach the new box so it had to be spliced. There was a finished second floor above.

So after making absolutely perfect splices, I put one of those galvanized 4" round cover plates on the box which ended up being set back about 1/4" into the drywall. THe customer will spackle right over it. 

I've done similar things on walls in which boxes had to be moved but there was no access and a splice box needed to remain, so they chose to cover it up.

Then there is always the repairing of cut wires, carpenters and handymen are good for doing that.


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## zac

socket2ya said:


> Hack said almost the same exact thing early in this thread, but you don't have any b*lls to say anything to him about it do you? Don't go around acting like you haven't done it Mr. Holier than Thou


I don't think it was an attack on you socket. I'm just curious why they allow the Tyco insplice but not a buried box. 
I Don't bury any splices and I don't like when I find one. I tell home owners that burying splices is not an option. 

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## HackWork

> *90.1 Purpose.*
> (A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is
> the practical *safeguarding of persons and property from
> hazards* arising from the use of electricity. *This Code is not
> intended as a design specification* or an instruction manual
> for untrained persons.


Accessibility to a junction box shouldn't be in the code in the first place. But apparently Tyco passed around big enough envelopes of cash to the CMP to get around it.


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## MTW

I've buried a few splices before. As long as it's a good splice, it will last just as long as one in an accessible box [forever].


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## zac

MTW said:


> I've buried a few splices before. As long as it's a good splice, it will last just as long as one in an accessible box [forever].


I hear what your saying but the reality is breakers mostly don't trip when overloaded. So any splice weather accessible or non is subject to fault.


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## HackWork

zac said:


> I hear what your saying but the reality is breakers mostly don't trip when overloaded. So any splice weather accessible or non is subject to fault.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


This is a different topic, but I was under the impression that a properly made splice with wires twisted together well and held together tightly with a good wirenut was not much higher resistance than the unbroken wire itself. And that a good splice would have no problem with any reasonable overload (like 20 amps on a #14).

But I could very well be wrong, I never looked into it.


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## splatz

I thought this thing was only made for manufactured home construction, it wasn't listed for use in the field. Even though Home Depot etc. say it's OK for repairs in a wall, Tyco doesn't.


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## splatz

zac said:


> I hear what your saying but the reality is breakers mostly don't trip when overloaded. So any splice weather accessible or non is subject to fault.





HackWork said:


> This is a different topic, but I was under the impression that a properly made splice with wires twisted together well and held together tightly with a good wirenut was not much higher resistance than the unbroken wire itself. And that a good splice would have no problem with any reasonable overload (like 20 amps on a #14).
> 
> But I could very well be wrong, I never looked into it.


So what's the difference in the case of an overload if the cover of the box is inside the wall or on the surface of the drywall? 

I think someone posted a Youtube video of a guy overloading a wire until it burned, over 100 amps on #14 or something, comparing the wago connectors and other connections.


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## nrp3

I think it changed in the 14 to allow for repairs in other structures besides manufactured.


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## HackWork

splatz said:


> So what's the difference in the case of an overload if the cover of the box is inside the wall or on the surface of the drywall?


I don't know, what?


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## zac

splatz said:


> So what's the difference in the case of an overload if the cover of the box is inside the wall or on the surface of the drywall?
> 
> I think someone posted a Youtube video of a guy overloading a wire until it burned, over 100 amps on #14 or something, comparing the wago connectors and other connections.


I would prefer the buried splice in a box rather then in a Tyco splice without the box. This way any arcing of splice is arrested. 

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## sbrn33

I used one once when I was drilling the sill for a service and hit a wire. There was only about 2 inches of wire coming out from the wall above. It worked pretty good there. because no way I could have gotten a box in there.


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## FaultCurrent

I believe that the Romex NM splice kits were developed for the manufactured home and RV industry. The assemblers would just plug the romex together as they put together the pre-fabbed wall panels. My brother has a manufactured home and they have those inside the wall where the two halves join. Naturally somebody found they were listed and could be used in other locations.

Never plan on using them myself.


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## MechanicalDVR

I'm just not a believer in buried splices and I could careless what means are used, I've spent too much time chasing down a broken connection that turned out to be a buried splice.


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## HackWork

MechanicalDVR said:


> I'm just not a believer in buried splices and I could careless what means are used, I've spent too much time chasing down a broken connection that turned out to be a buried splice.


That was the fault of a bad splice, not a buried box.

Furthermore, the code isn't there to cut down on electrical work.

Just sayin'...


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## shocksystems

I have used them. They work well in a pinch. I believe in the 2017 code there was a change which limits their use for repair of damaged wires. In the 2014 code you could use them if you wanted to extend a circuit (say for moving a chandelier).


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## MechanicalDVR

HackWork said:


> That was the fault of a bad splice, not a buried box.
> 
> Furthermore, the code isn't there to cut down on electrical work.
> 
> Just sayin'...


Finding them is the worst part, while you do them your way chances are they will never be a problem but you are clearly an exception to the rule in this regard. It's the other million guys out there that create the problem.

Not sure how code comes into my complaint here.


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## readydave8

socket2ya said:


> Hack said almost the same exact thing early in this thread, but you don't have any b*lls to say anything to him about it do you? Don't go around acting like you haven't done it Mr. Holier than Thou


oops sorry should have quoted Hack and been more tactful:001_huh:


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## readydave8

socket2ya said:


> Hack said almost the same exact thing early in this thread, but you don't have any b*lls to say anything to him about it do you? Don't go around acting like you haven't done it Mr. Holier than Thou


Well you are absolutely correct, I have done it.

At some point I decided not to anymore.

And have not found it necessary to "bury" one since

Although I have had to cut sheetrock, add blank, etc. , to avoid doing so.

And still not holy, will put one above can light or behind mirror.


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## MechanicalDVR

readydave8 said:


> Well you are absolutely correct, I have done it.
> 
> At some point I decided not to anymore.
> 
> And have not found it necessary to "bury" one since
> 
> Although I have had to cut sheetrock, add blank, etc. , to avoid doing so.
> 
> And still not holy, *will put one above can light or behind mirror.*


:thumbsup:

Not sure those really count as buried.


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## readydave8

Well I've been thinking some more.

If anyone asks me if I would ever bury a box, I would have to say "maybe"

And maybe I will.

But I haven't had to for a couple of decades.


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## socket2ya

readydave8 said:


> oops sorry should have quoted Hack and been more tactful:001_huh:


Yes, you choose your actions carefully


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## socket2ya

readydave8 said:


> Well you are absolutely correct, I have done it.
> 
> At some point I decided not to anymore.


And now you have a license to wag your finger at others


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## damprobe

Back in the day, the 1900's, the local chief electrical training officer who taught an evening code class would go out of his way to tell us that if it was a 20amp or less nm cable, and we were not taping off of it, it was perfectly acceptable to repair it with a metal handy box & cover and bury it back inside wall.
A lot of guys in the class thought this was novel and went out with new religion. 

At the end of the course I carefully asked him to show me where the code made this possible...


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## HackWork

readydave8 said:


> oops sorry should have quoted Hack and been more tactful:001_huh:


I liked it better when you were scared of me


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## HackWork

readydave8 said:


> Well you are absolutely correct, I have done it.
> 
> At some point I decided not to anymore.
> 
> And have not found it necessary to "bury" one since
> 
> Although I have had to cut sheetrock, add blank, etc. , to avoid doing so.
> 
> And still not holy, will put one above can light or behind mirror.


Behind a recessed light is compliant, dependant on your AHJ.

Behind a permanently affixed mirror such as a bathroom vanity mirror (often screwed and glued) is just as bad as spackling over it, IMO.


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## readydave8

socket2ya said:


> Yes, you choose your actions carefully


I retract my apology for quoting you

Hack may have said that he would bury a splice

You said that sometimes you have to

My question was, under what circumstances would you have to?

One option would be to answer the question, another would be to get mad at me again.


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## socket2ya

I've had some people argue that in the ceiling outside the recessed is not completely legit because electricians rarely fasten the box and leave it floating up there. I myself do not see this as an issue whatsoever, but you know, the NEC purists


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## readydave8

Re-reading Hack's original post I see that he does say "need to"


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## socket2ya

readydave8 said:


> I retract my apology for quoting you
> 
> Hack may have said that he would bury a splice
> 
> You said that sometimes you have to
> 
> My question was, under what circumstances would you have to?
> 
> One option would be to answer the question, another would be to get mad at me again.


Yah I probably jumped at you a little hard on that one, my apologies


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## HackWork

readydave8 said:


> Re-reading Hack's original post I see that he does say "need to"


Yes, but IMO "need to" is as simple as the customer wanting it that way.

Their house, their rules. It's NOT a safety issue so the NEC doesn't apply.

If a woman doesn't want to see a cover plate on the ceiling of her dining room, she gets to make that decision, not some corrupt CMP member.


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## readydave8

Re-reading my post #7, I'm not convinced that if it had been in response to something I said, that I would have taken it as a personal attack


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## readydave8

Even though there are NEC rules that I knowingly break (for example, I'm still stapling romex under joists in crawls instead of drilling),

I don't like buried boxes

Or the kit in question

Only ones I've ever seen are in mobile homes


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## MechanicalDVR

readydave8 said:


> Even though there are NEC rules that I knowingly break (for example, I'm still stapling romex under joists in crawls instead of drilling),
> 
> I don't like buried boxes
> 
> Or the kit in question
> 
> *Only ones I've ever seen are in mobile homes*


Yup and in that case they fit right in with the other half-assed wiring methods and devices.


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## earle310

I am new here but been doing this for about 25 years. I have recently seen these splice kits and feel the same as some others on here; They do not look reliable. I try not to splice in a wall, but we all know that sometimes it needs to be done. Whenever I have had to do it, I use a box, solder my splices, cap with wirenuts, and tape around the wirenuts. I don’t see how that cannot be better than one of those junk splice kits.


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## eddy current

earle310 said:


> I try not to splice in a wall, but we all know that sometimes it needs to be done. .


No it doesn’t. It can always be done properly, there never has to be splices in the walls, it just takes more work. In Canada we can not use these, no splicing in walls allowed yet we manage to still get the job done.


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## Tonedeaf

I am not sure code if changed regarding them....but i used they TYCO ones in a factory built housing job ....the houses came in pre- finshed, pre-wired,pre-plumbed sections,
Had to connect labeled romex wires between sections.


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## splatz

OK BITCHES FOR ONCE AND FOR ALL I AM ABOUT TO SETTLE THIS CONTROVERSY 

I have some bad news for some of you. 

Here are the instructions for the device: 

http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...pdfEnglishENG_SS_408-4504-1_H.pdf1116377-2

Here is the Application Specification: 

https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...pdfEnglishENG_SS_114-10045_C.pdf1116377-2 

Look at section 3.3 on page 2 of the Application specification. 



> 3.3. Installation
> A. Factory
> Type NM-1 and NM-2 devices must be factory installed on the free end of a nonmetallic sheathed cable. The
> Type NM-3 device is must be factory installed anywhere along a nonmetallic sheathed cable. The cable
> must be prepared (cut, stripped, and formed) to allow the device to be assembled in only one position (to
> maintain the integrity of the polarity arrangement). The conductors and stripped cable jacket are completely
> within the enclosure and strain-relief cover. When used to connect expandable or dual-unit mobile homes,
> the connector ends are to be located where they are protected from moisture and physical damage during
> transport to the mobile home lot.
> B. Building Site and Dwelling Site
> The separate modules of a building or dwelling assembled on location are to be connected electrically by the
> simple plug-in connection (including a mechanical latch) of mating pairs thereby providing circuit continuity.
> The connected pairs may or may not be fastened in place. The connected pairs may or may not be
> concealed by the installation.


AS SOME MAGNIFICENT BASTARD MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS IS FOR USE WITH MANUFACTURED / MODULAR HOMES 

and by hacks and Home Depot Demons every weekend.


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## TGGT

splatz said:


> OK BITCHES FOR ONCE AND FOR ALL I AM ABOUT TO SETTLE THIS CONTROVERSY
> 
> I have some bad news for some of you.
> 
> Here are the instructions for the device:
> 
> http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...pdfEnglishENG_SS_408-4504-1_H.pdf1116377-2
> 
> Here is the Application Specification:
> 
> https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...pdfEnglishENG_SS_114-10045_C.pdf1116377-2
> 
> Look at section 3.3 on page 2 of the Application specification.
> 
> 
> 
> AS SOME MAGNIFICENT BASTARD MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS IS FOR USE WITH MANUFACTURED / MODULAR HOMES
> 
> and by hacks and Home Depot Demons every weekend.


Good to know. I've used them before. They suck, I'd rather hide a wire nut in the wall than that thing.

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## samgregger

TGGT said:


> Good to know. I've used them before. They suck, I'd rather hide a wire nut in the wall than that thing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


Yep, I'd think splices in an all steel handy box would be a lot less dangerous than one of these.


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## TGGT

Now that I think about it, levernuts are perfect for burying and should be listed to do so.

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## HackWork

TGGT said:


> Now that I think about it, levernuts are perfect for burying and should be listed to do so.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


 I love lever nuts, but I would never use them on a buried splice.


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## wmbettsjr

I like the handi box idea. I normally try to get it under the house or into the attic. Another idea I have been using is to locate the junction box behind the mirror in the bathroom if it's removable. I do a LOT of bathrooms lately.

Thank you Splatz for the info on those damn plugs. I was under the impression that they were listed for use in the wall but never looked into it because they seemed like a bad idea



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## TGGT

HackWork said:


> I love lever nuts, but I would never use them on a buried splice.


They seem like sturdy splices. It's the kind of mechanism I think UL listed device for covering up would be perfect for.

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## HackWork

TGGT said:


> They seem like sturdy splices. It's the kind of mechanism I think UL listed device for covering up would be perfect for.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


For normal stuff I think they are great. But if I want to bury a splice I want to use the best method possible. I think twisting two wires together and using a good quality wire nut is better.


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## zac

HackWork said:


> For normal stuff I think they are great. But if I want to bury a splice I want to use the best method possible. I think twisting two wires together and using a good quality wire nut is better.


Kearney split bolt that splice!

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## MCasey

splatz said:


> OK BITCHES FOR ONCE AND FOR ALL I AM ABOUT TO SETTLE THIS CONTROVERSY
> 
> I have some bad news for some of you.
> 
> Here are the instructions for the device:
> 
> http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...pdfEnglishENG_SS_408-4504-1_H.pdf1116377-2
> 
> Here is the Application Specification:
> 
> https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...pdfEnglishENG_SS_114-10045_C.pdf1116377-2
> 
> Look at section 3.3 on page 2 of the Application specification.
> 
> 
> 
> AS SOME MAGNIFICENT BASTARD MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS IS FOR USE WITH MANUFACTURED / MODULAR HOMES
> 
> and by hacks and Home Depot Demons every weekend.


Have had thse fail in modular rental buildings used for temporary quarters on several jobs Often there is ot enough slack in the cable to replace them with a standard junction but you need to add some cable and use two boxes.


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## nrp3

When I was an apprentice and was doing modulars, we’d cut those off and splice in nail ons and four squares.


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## sbrn33

HackWork said:


> For normal stuff I think they are great. But if I want to bury a splice I want to use the best method possible. I think twisting two wires together and using a good quality wire nut is better.


There is no need for twisting the wires together.


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## HackWork

sbrn33 said:


> There is no need for twisting the wires together.


Of course there is. Wirenuts twist the wires together, which makes a great connection.


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## electricguy

earle310 said:


> I am new here but been doing this for about 25 years. I have recently seen these splice kits and feel the same as some others on here; They do not look reliable. I try not to splice in a wall, but we all know that sometimes it needs to be done. Whenever I have had to do it, I use a box, solder my splices, cap with wirenuts, and tape around the wirenuts. I don’t see how that cannot be better than one of those junk splice kits.



rewriting the code for your own convenience does not seem professional to me.


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## Going_Commando

sbrn33 said:


> There is no need for twisting the wires together.


I don't understand why you would make an inferior splice by not pre-twisting before applying the wirenut. I can twist wires together with my linemans far better than a wirenut can. Heck, just a couple weeks ago I did a service call for lights and outlets not working, and found where a wire had pulled out of a wirenut 10 years after it was installed, because they didn't pre-twist their wires together, and trusted the wirenut to do it for them. I twisted the wires together properly, put on a new wirenut, and now the splice is good for 50+ years.


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## HackWork

Going_Commando said:


> I don't understand why you would make an inferior splice by not pre-twisting before applying the wirenut. I can twist wires together with my linemans far better than a wirenut can. Heck, just a couple weeks ago I did a service call for lights and outlets not working, and found where a wire had pulled out of a wirenut 10 years after it was installed, because they didn't pre-twist their wires together, and trusted the wirenut to do it for them. I twisted the wires together properly, put on a new wirenut, and now the splice is good for 50+ years.


 If you could get a good grip on the wires, hold them even, twist on the wire nut and really torque it down, then it will be a pretty damn good splice. It will also usually twist the wires together. But it’s a lot of work to keep twisting that wire nut, some people even use a tool to do it, so it’s easier just to give the wires a couple twists with your lineman pliers before hand. 

It depends on the situation, if I was looking to make a bullet proof splice I would definitely twist the wires together


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## zac

Going_Commando said:


> I don't understand why you would make an inferior splice by not pre-twisting before applying the wirenut. I can twist wires together with my linemans far better than a wirenut can. Heck, just a couple weeks ago I did a service call for lights and outlets not working, and found where a wire had pulled out of a wirenut 10 years after it was installed, because they didn't pre-twist their wires together, and trusted the wirenut to do it for them. I twisted the wires together properly, put on a new wirenut, and now the splice is good for 50+ years.


Takes less time. I will wrap a stranded wire around a solid wire but I don't twist solids.
The wingnut is sufficient enough. I always pull my wires too to see if there snug. 
If like Hack says it needs to be bullet proof, I'm twisting them doggies. 

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## sbrn33

Going_Commando said:


> I don't understand why you would make an inferior splice by not pre-twisting before applying the wirenut. I can twist wires together with my linemans far better than a wirenut can. Heck, just a couple weeks ago I did a service call for lights and outlets not working, and found where a wire had pulled out of a wirenut 10 years after it was installed, because they didn't pre-twist their wires together, and trusted the wirenut to do it for them. I twisted the wires together properly, put on a new wirenut, and now the splice is good for 50+ years.


If you look at the facts and studies, there is more surface to surface area when you do not pretwist.


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## HackWork

sbrn33 said:


> If you look at the facts and studies, there is more surface to surface area when you do not pretwist.


Can you link to these studies?

How do you keep the wires straight? How do you prevent the wirenut from twisting them together when you install it?


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## HackWork

Here is an example that 220/221 posted a long time ago:









That is (4) #12's. I'm sure with less #12's or #14's the hand twisted conductors would be even more twisted. 

So that is bad, according to the facts and studies? Should we stop twisting wirenuts on and just push them down onto the wires? :biggrin:


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## zac

HackWork said:


> Here is an example that 220/221 posted a long time ago:
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 133058
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is (4) #12's. I'm sure with less #12's or #14's the hand twisted conductors would be even more twisted.
> 
> 
> 
> So that is bad, according to the facts and studies? Should we stop twisting wirenuts on and just push them down onto the wires? [emoji3]


The facts are as I've studied my experiences, twisting wire takes longer and is a pain to break apart the wires when troubleshooting... especially fun when it's hot! Must be an East coast thing because its rarely done around here. 

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## HackWork

zac said:


> The facts are as I've studied my experiences, twisting wire takes longer and is a pain to break apart the wires when troubleshooting... especially fun when it's hot! Must be an East coast thing because its rarely done around here.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I was just messing with Sabrina about his facts and studies :biggrin:


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## zac

HackWork said:


> I was just messing with Sabrina about his facts and studies [emoji3]


I figured that...i just needed to let that off my chest. I've encountered service upgrades where they made one huge dreadlock with the ground...... killing me! 

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## MTW

So it's ok to use a junky Tyco connector buried in the wall of a modular or manufactured home. But you can't make a bulletproof splice in a box and bury it in a wall. Yes, I know one is subject to workmanship and one is not. But _I_ know I can make a bulletproof splice and bury it and be totally fine with it lasting 100 years trouble free, just like all the K&T out there.


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## trentonmakes

MTW said:


> So it's ok to use a junky Tyco connector buried in the wall of a modular or manufactured home. But you can't make a bulletproof splice in a box and bury it in a wall. Yes, I know one is subject to workmanship and one is not. But _I_ know I can make a bulletproof splice and bury it and be totally fine with it lasting 100 years trouble free, just like all the K&T out there.


This is exactly how I feel after learning more about those tyco connectors.

Technically, they are only to be used to repair wiring anyways.

I think a splice in a carlon box and blank plate is much better if your going to bury a splice.

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## splatz

trentonmakes said:


> Technically, they are only to be used to repair wiring anyways.


https://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/tyco-romex-splice-kit-222065/index3/#post5174226


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## HackWork

splatz said:


> https://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/tyco-romex-splice-kit-222065/index3/#post5174226


I am a magnificent bastard.


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## trentonmakes

splatz said:


> https://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/tyco-romex-splice-kit-222065/index3/#post5174226


334.40 (B) Devices of Insulating Material. Self-contained switches,
self-contained receptacles, and nonmetallic-sheathed cable interconnector
devices of insulating material that are listed shall be
permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and
for repair wiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed

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## splatz

trentonmakes said:


> 334.40 (B) Devices of Insulating Material. Self-contained switches,
> self-contained receptacles, and nonmetallic-sheathed cable interconnector
> devices of insulating material that are listed shall be
> permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and
> for repair wiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed


Doesn't that mean it has to be listed for the purpose when used according to the device's instructions? I can't see this being a rule giving you permission to bastardize a device listed for something else.


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## trentonmakes

Yes, but there are others besides tyco

I have a couple in my truck, I'll look and see what brand they are.

The code leads me to believe some are listed for that use.

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## MechanicalDVR

nrp3 said:


> When I was an apprentice and was doing modulars, we’d cut those off and splice in nail ons and four squares.


It would be nice if everyone did that.


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## MechanicalDVR

HackWork said:


> I am a magnificent bastard.


Snopes says: partially true!


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## trentonmakes

The ones I had are TE Connectivity



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## splatz

trentonmakes said:


> The ones I had are *T*yco *E*lectronics Connectivity


:vs_poop:


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## pdblais

czars said:


> Anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the TYCO Romex Splice Kit? It's supposed to be compliant with Article 334.40.b. Making electrical splices or connections without a junction box bothers me.


I know this is a bit old, but yes, I have used them and they are great. I’ve read the reply’s below and see some people suggesting that it is better to jus bury a jbox and call it good. I have never done that and I think it is foolish to do so. This item is is not a jbox it is an irreversible splice kit. That is why it is UL approved to be buried in a wall. I have used these in so many remodels ever since I discovered them some 15+ years ago. They never fail. It is a great product.


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## pdblais

HackWork said:


> Funny you asked.
> 
> This morning one of the jobs we did at a customer's house was moving the chandelier so it's centered over the table. He didn't want a swag hook nor a cover plate on the old box. The old box had to stay because the switch leg wouldn't reach the new box so it had to be spliced. There was a finished second floor above.
> 
> So after making absolutely perfect splices, I put one of those galvanized 4" round cover plates on the box which ended up being set back about 1/4" into the drywall. THe customer will spackle right over it.
> 
> I've done similar things on walls in which boxes had to be moved but there was no access and a splice box needed to remain, so they chose to cover it up.
> 
> Then there is always the repairing of cut wires, carpenters and handymen are good for doing that.


Wow! I would never do that. The in wall splice kit would have solved this problem 100% and would have been compliant. The other alternative would have been to run a new wire all the way back to switch and have the homeowner pay for all the drywall repair. That is the correct way to do it. Burying a splice is never the answer- just a cheap work around. If the homeowner doesn’t want to pay for the correct way, then they can’t have the job done by me.


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## pdblais

HackWork said:


> I still have one on the truck, never used it.
> 
> It looks like a piece of garbage and people said that it's hard to wire up.
> 
> If I need to bury a splice, I can make my own bulletproof splice in a handybox with 3M red/yellows. I would trust that more than the Tyco thing.


So bad. Never bury a splice because it is more convenient. Either do the extra work to do it right or let another electrician do it. But don’t do that


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