# Tesla 3 not charging on 50A plug completely



## bantar1000 (Jul 7, 2016)

About a year ago I put in a 50a plug on 6-3 wire. It’s in a garage and less than 4 feet from the box. The customer called me this morning and said her Tesla 3 was charging all the way for the most part but has recently only charged to 16%. She called Tesla and they told her 90% of the time it’s something in the house electrical. I don’t know that I buy that. But I’m going over Monday to test the circuit. Other than make sure there’s no corrosion, connections are tight, what can I test? 
I plan to plug the car in with the charging cable and amp out each wire. But what else could it be on my end? Thanks! -John


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## Camproadninja (Oct 14, 2020)

Ya just make sure the voltages are correct and document how many amps it's pulling. At least you can confirm there's nothing wrong on your end


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Ask them what the other 10% might be.


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

bantar1000 said:


> About a year ago I put in a 50a plug on 6-3 wire. It’s in a garage and less than 4 feet from the box. The customer called me this morning and said her Tesla 3 was charging all the way for the most part but has recently only charged to 16%. She called Tesla and they told her 90% of the time it’s something in the house electrical. I don’t know that I buy that. But I’m going over Monday to test the circuit. Other than make sure there’s no corrosion, connections are tight, what can I test?
> I plan to plug the car in with the charging cable and amp out each wire. But what else could it be on my end? Thanks! -John


as long as you verify everything you mentioned, especially tight connections. Low amp readings may be due to the charger not calling for it.
it sounds like the charger, car, and or batteries are the issue. IF its easy to get to, and you dont have to break any warranty seals, check the battery voltage on the battery itself
ask her if it still has the same miles and range on a charge, this would rule out or point to the charge indicator

It hasnt been that many years since passenger airliners with lithium batteries were catching on fire. Yes, technology is better, but is it really right yet?

bottom line, dont fool with the car or charger for warranty purposes, and dont get between her and tesla, you will end up paying for something not your fault.

Explain to her that your install is electrically good 100%. Tell her she can call an independent inspector to look at it.
You have no control over tesla's issues created by a design fault.


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## SWDweller (Dec 9, 2020)

All batteries decay over time. Each type of battery has it's own issue with use. Lead Acids can have the life cut in half on a solar system by just discharging them down to 10%.
Depending on how she is driving and charging the car will have a lot to do with the charge times. 

I tend to agree it is something in the car or charger. I also agree that tinkering with the customers parts could be a issue for you. However testing them, verifying the voltage and amperage when charging is not tinkering in my mind. Not that I have a clue how you would do that. 
I will be eager to hear what the culprit is when you find it.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Load the circuit down. 








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hook up three of these and put in a bucket of water. Check current and voltage.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

If I had a loonie for every time tech support said my wiring was bad I would be smoking cigars on the beach right now.


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

I just replaced a Tesla Wall Connector for someone because it was defective. So yes, Tesla, sometimes your stuff does break!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

just the cowboy said:


> Load the circuit down.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I am going to assume you mean connect to his install and not tesla's stuff.
I agree, that will prove his wiring, etc. 100%

There will be some people laughing at me for saying this, I carry a pigtail lamp socket with an incandescent bulb (more than a meter) to test/trouble shoot 110V plugs with. If it will burn a light bulb, it will do whatever it is supposed to do.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

I'd think a good load would be the Tesla.
Plug in car, measure voltages at the 14-50R. If there is a huge drop, verify at feed (panel or sub, you said it's only 4 feet away)

Then she, or preferable you, can call back Tesla support.


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

emtnut said:


> I'd think a good load would be the Tesla.
> Plug in car, measure voltages at the 14-50R. If there is a huge drop, verify at feed (panel or sub, you said it's only 4 feet away)
> 
> Then she, or preferable you, can call back Tesla support.


I personally would not get involved in a phone conversation with tesla. You could spend hours arguing about your work as an electrician. 
I would tell her to tell them to honor the warranty and send a tech to work on the charger (after i load tested my circuit)


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

just the cowboy said:


> Load the circuit down.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's got to be the cheapest thing you could find for a test resistive load, by far


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## oldsparky52 (Feb 25, 2020)

just the cowboy said:


> Load the circuit down.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Some of the marina managers wanted to know their meters (in the power centers) were working and reasonably accurate. I took two water heater elements and installed them in a PVC box (8" x 8" IIRC), terminals inside the box. I made sure the connection of the element to the box was watertight. I wired a cord to the box and elements and installed a 50-amp plug on the end so I could plug it into the power center receptacle. 

I'd throw the box in the water (elements down in the water of course) and load the receptacle. I'd check the amperage and voltage and do the calculations to see how long the meter should take to register the power consumption and compare it what happens.


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## dspiffy (Nov 25, 2013)

Almost Retired said:


> I carry a pigtail lamp socket with an incandescent bulb (more than a meter) to test/trouble shoot 110V plugs with. If it will burn a light bulb, it will do whatever it is supposed to do.


I use a 300w incandescent bulb.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

If you are an Electrical Contractor that does a lot of EVSE’s or expects to, you should get an EVSE tester. They are not cheap ($1500) but at least you can actually test it.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

eddy current said:


> If you are an Electrical Contractor that does a lot of EVSE’s or expects to, you should get an EVSE tester. They are not cheap ($1500) but at least you can actually test it.


That tests the output of the charger, right? If you are going to sell and service the chargers themselves I could see that. But in this case he installed a receptacle and that's what needs to be tested, if it delivers the correct voltage and ampacity the rest is not his concern. Even if you sell and service the chargers, if you have tech support blaming a cord and plug connected charger problem on the recep circuit, you'll have to test the recep. You can test the voltage with a meter but to test under load you need a dummy load.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

splatz said:


> That tests the output of the charger, right? If you are going to sell and service the chargers themselves I could see that. But in this case he installed a receptacle and that's what needs to be tested, if it delivers the correct voltage and ampacity the rest is not his concern. Even if you sell and service the chargers, if you have tech support blaming a cord and plug connected charger problem on the recep circuit, you'll have to test the recep. You can test the voltage with a meter but to test under load you need a dummy load.


Yes of course he needs to inspect what he installed, but having an EVSE tester will actually give the customer an answer where just testing the receptacle does not.

First EC comes in, only tests the outlet and tells customer “well, my receptacle works fine, good luck finding the problem with Tesla”.

Second EC comes in, tests the receptacle, and then spends 2 minutes with the EVSE tester plugged in and has an answer for the customer as to if the EVSE is actually working.

Which EC does the customer then use again and recommend to others?


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

eddy current said:


> Yes of course he needs to inspect what he installed, but having an EVSE tester will actually give the customer an answer where just testing the receptacle does not.
> 
> First EC comes in, only tests the outlet and tells customer “well, my receptacle works fine, good luck finding the problem with Tesla”.
> 
> ...


If I am the first EC and the customer calls a second EC instead of Tesla, why would I want that customer and why would they bad mouth me when I told them the electrical was not the problem?

If anything, they should respect the fact that I gave them the correct answer in the first place.


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

Almost Retired said:


> I am going to assume you mean connect to his install and not tesla's stuff.
> I agree, that will prove his wiring, etc. 100%
> 
> There will be some people laughing at me for saying this, I carry a pigtail lamp socket with an incandescent bulb (more than a meter) to test/trouble shoot 110V plugs with. If it will burn a light bulb, it will do whatever it is supposed to do.


I often say the same about the pigtails. Two in series can be used on 240 volts. No phantom or ghost voltages. My grandfather used it, my father used it, and I now still use them. I also have a wiggly and a Fluke. The only problem with the rubber pigtails is it is getting harder to get incandescent lamps.


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

This is one reason why I do not like all the new electronic devices on the market. When it does not work you do not know if it is the device, the programming, the user, the internet connection, or is it actually an electrical problem. As others above said, most of the time tech service blames it on the wiring. The average homeowner or car owner has no idea of what they are doing and it is easier to call up tech support and then the electrician. My neighbor had a similar problem with his Tesla. The wall port kept going off on some error and he could not charge his car at home. After about a month there was an update to the car and now it works. 
Maybe if they stopped playing around with new designs and put out something that works and not rush to market we would not have these problems. Think of the AFCI or when the GFCI first came to market.


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

kb1jb1 said:


> This is one reason why I do not like all the new electronic devices on the market. When it does not work you do not know if it is the device, the programming, the user, the internet connection, or is it actually an electrical problem. As others above said, most of the time tech service blames it on the wiring. The average homeowner or car owner has no idea of what they are doing and it is easier to call up tech support and then the electrician. My neighbor had a similar problem with his Tesla. The wall port kept going off on some error and he could not charge his car at home. After about a month there was an update to the car and now it works.
> Maybe if they stopped playing around with new designs and put out something that works and not rush to market we would not have these problems. Think of the AFCI or when the GFCI first came to market.


I AM SO WITH YOU ON THAT !!!


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## SomeJoe (Apr 9, 2021)

Fellow Sparkies, I've installed over 50 of these EV charger plugs or units. Mostly for Tesla as we are a Tesla Certified Installer for their customers. 
***FYI the unit that comes with the EV is called a "Mobile Connector" which customer needs to buy an adapter to take out the 120v and insert the 240v normally a Nema 14-50 or I prefer them get the 6-50. One less wire.
The other unit sold separately is called the Tesla Wall Connector which retails at about $500.00. This option is only for ppl that travel long distances on a daily basis and if the load calcs allow for their existing service, if not then they're having to upgrade to a 200 amp service.

In the past few months we've had 4 customers with this problem, my quick solution to them is reducing the amperage draw to the vehicle to 22 amps until I can get there to inspect my wiring. This was they can still charge.
When the car is plugged in, "Charge Current - 16 A + " will appear on the lower center portion of the screen. Here the customer can adjust the draw by finger tapping on the minus sign.

So...I've checked all of those plugs. All good, even swapped out 2 of those. One customer took it to Tesla prior to contacting me, they plugged it in and all good. Goes back home, same problem shows up.
I stop by, all wiring good. Breaker, wire, plug...solid. He borrows his buddy's Mobile Connector and charges at home, no problem. He goes to Tesla again making a fuzz and they give him a new Mobile Connector, works like a charm.

Same thing to one other customer, still waiting on one customer to update me and the other customer is not responding. Because he swore it was my install so I swapped the 6-50R and followed up with him, I'm assuming he then took it to Tesla and gave him a new unit yet didn't want to tell me so as to not charge him a service fee haha.

Hope this helps you guys out there, it's funny to me that ppl will pay in excess of 50k for an EV then try to low-ball the charger install to $400.00 from the $500.00 quoted haha


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

Since you are a Tesla person, you might be a good person to ask a question about the high power wall port. If you ask 5 different inspectors / electricians you might get 6 different answers.. Based on the 2017 NEC Does Tesla require it to be wired with a 100 amp circuit and if so does it have to have a lockable disconnect or just a disconnect? The 2021 NEC allows the amperage settings to be changed under certain conditions


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## SomeJoe (Apr 9, 2021)

May I add that these Nema 14-50 / 6-50R's Mobile Connector adapters only pull 32 amps continuous and the Wall Connector has to be commissioned via a WiFi connection to the unit in which the installer then selects the amperage installed. 
These Wall Connectors have gone through several design changes, the most recent one can only pull 48 amp continuous on a 60 amp circuit. That is if the MSP has enough amperage left after load calcs, otherwise installer can select from 50 to 15 amp on 240v...which if below 40 amp it's pointless as Nema 6-50R is cheaper.

The one shown on photo is the 2nd generation Wall Connector.

You can only access the unit's interface in the first 30 minutes of turning On the Wall Connector as it generates a WiFi signal which you'll need to access it with a smartphone, password is in the pamphlet that comes with unit. While in the interface, you'll then be able to find the customers WiFi and input password as this new Wall Connector latches on WiFi for constant updates which then uploads to EV when plugged.


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## SomeJoe (Apr 9, 2021)

kb1jb1 said:


> Since you are a Tesla person, you might be a good person to ask a question about the high power wall port. If you ask 5 different inspectors / electricians you might get 6 different answers.. Based on the 2017 NEC Does Tesla require it to be wired with a 100 amp circuit and if so does it have to have a lockable disconnect or just a disconnect? The 2021 NEC allows the amperage settings to be changed under certain conditions



100 amps are not required to be installed on a single unit, the 1rst generation did have those capabilities yet amperage was set internally with a rotary dial setting (number 9 I believe for 90 amps) so customer did not have access to this...unless of course they took it apart if they had security screw tips.
Also, there is a feature called "power sharing" which allows multiple Wall Connectors to be installed on a parallel circuit (normally 100 amps). 
Installer selects the amperage after load calcs of the MSP, this was only for the 2nd generation Wall Connectors which are not in production anymore. 
This feature allowed to divert power to the Wall Connector / EV that had the lowest charge levels. 
If there were 3 EV's with 3 Wall Connectors in power sharing mode, they then would "talk" amongst each other and charge the most depleted EV.

Customers do have access to the settings with the new units since they keep the pamphlet with password, so yes they can ramp up the amperage to 60 amps say if only 40 amps were installed. Which at that point it's the OCPD to do it's job and cut off after 40.
At this point the customer is liable if tinkering with this, I always take screenshots of settings before completion.

We normally install disconnecting means if above 60 amp 240 volt, Tesla is working on "power sharing" mode for the new TWC to have multiple units feed multiple EV's.


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## SomeJoe (Apr 9, 2021)

Also, I'm not a "Tesla person" haha...I'm 3rd generation sparky.

I'm currently installing a bunch of Enphase Ensemble (solar + battery) systems as well as Eguana, SolarEdge w/ LG Chem, a few Tesla PoweWalls, and service Outback PV system.

I pretty much do anything that comes my way, from wiring a whole house to wiring up chef's counters for Lazy Dog / BJ's / PF Chang's, data drops, resi upgrades, resi & commercial service work and so on.

I'm also the troubleshooter in the company because I have infinite patience haha


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

SomeJoe said:


> 100 amps are not required to be installed on a single unit, the 1rst generation did have those capabilities yet amperage was set internally with a rotary dial setting (number 9 I believe for 90 amps) so customer did not have access to this...unless of course they took it apart if they had security screw tips.
> Also, there is a feature called "power sharing" which allows multiple Wall Connectors to be installed on a parallel circuit (normally 100 amps).
> Installer selects the amperage after load calcs of the MSP, this was only for the 2nd generation Wall Connectors which are not in production anymore.
> This feature allowed to divert power to the Wall Connector / EV that had the lowest charge levels.
> ...


Here (Ontario Canada) we have to wire the 3rd generation units to their maximum.


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## SomeJoe (Apr 9, 2021)

eddy current said:


> Here (Ontario Canada) we have to wire the 3rd generation units to their maximum.


Which is a 60 amp circuit....which means if load calcs don't add up you're having to upgrade the service panel.

3rd gen TWC were limited in two ways, amperage and cord length...a third way if Tesla can't figure out "power sharing"

1st & 2nd gen could go up to a 100 circuit & had 25ft cord, gen 3 have 18ft length cord.


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## Sparkchaser1 (May 17, 2015)

I've done either industrial or healthcare electrical maintenance work for 35 years.......the wiring to their device, regardless of who the manufacturer is or what the device is......is the problem. "We've never seen that issue come up before"....sound familiar to anyone??


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Sparkchaser1 said:


> I've done either industrial or healthcare electrical maintenance work for 35 years.......the wiring to their device, regardless of who the manufacturer is or what the device is......is the problem. "We've never seen that issue come up before"....sound familiar to anyone??


This is exactly my experience. I always tell my customers, everyone, keep in mind - when you talk to that person in tech support, 99% of the time, they really don't care if your problem gets fixed, *they just want to get you off the phone and move on to the next call. *

Very standard move is to blame it on something other than their product, putting the ball in your court; to get them to look further, you have to disprove their claim that it's something other than their product. 

With a plug-in car charger, you have to prove the receptacle is functioning properly, capable of supplying the voltage and current that it's rated for. If you prove that, you've ruled out your work as the problem. 

If you want to be an appliance repairman for this new car charging appliance - which is great if you can make money at it - a charger tester might make sense to own. You may be able to use it to determine whether a charging problem is with the charger or the vehicle. But for an electrician it would be like owning a washing machine tester, I wouldn't be buying one because I don't select sell or service washing machines, I just supply them with power.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

splatz said:


> This is exactly my experience. I always tell my customers, everyone, keep in mind - when you talk to that person in tech support, 99% of the time, they really don't care if your problem gets fixed, *they just want to get you off the phone and move on to the next call. *
> 
> Very standard move is to blame it on something other than their product, putting the ball in your court; to get them to look further, you have to disprove their claim that it's something other than their product.
> 
> ...


Nailed it.


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## dspiffy (Nov 25, 2013)

splatz said:


> This is exactly my experience. I always tell my customers, everyone, keep in mind - when you talk to that person in tech support, 99% of the time, they really don't care if your problem gets fixed, *they just want to get you off the phone and move on to the next call. *
> 
> Very standard move is to blame it on something other than their product, putting the ball in your court; to get them to look further, you have to disprove their claim that it's something other than their product.
> 
> ...


People in tech support are not required to have ANY technical knowledge. They're reading off a script. When I used to work for a ceiling fan company, when we hired people for tech support, we looked for customer service experience. Not electrical knowledge of any kind.


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## dontreadthis (Jan 17, 2021)

bantar1000 said:


> About a year ago I put in a 50a plug on 6-3 wire. It’s in a garage and less than 4 feet from the box. The customer called me this morning and said her Tesla 3 was charging all the way for the most part but has recently only charged to 16%. She called Tesla and they told her 90% of the time it’s something in the house electrical. I don’t know that I buy that. But I’m going over Monday to test the circuit. Other than make sure there’s no corrosion, connections are tight, what can I test?
> I plan to plug the car in with the charging cable and amp out each wire. But what else could it be on my end? Thanks! -John


Sounds like a load of horse sh*t to me. That claim just defies logic. If there was a problem with the circuit, why would it charge at all? The battery is charging all the way to 90% and then stopping. Either there is a problem with the charge controller or the batteries have been used to the point that the charge controller is limiting the charge to 90% to protect them and/or extend their life. Tesla is using delay tactics and misinformation to avoid a warranty claim.


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

splatz said:


> This is exactly my experience. I always tell my customers, everyone, keep in mind - when you talk to that person in tech support, 99% of the time, they really don't care if your problem gets fixed, *they just want to get you off the phone and move on to the next call. *
> 
> Very standard move is to blame it on something other than their product, putting the ball in your court; to get them to look further, you have to disprove their claim that it's something other than their product.
> 
> ...


You left out one very important main goal of tech support. They want you to take their survey at the end of the call and give them a very good rating. Their raises and or bonuses depend on achieving a rating of 5.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

dspiffy said:


> People in tech support are not required to have ANY technical knowledge. They're reading off a script. When I used to work for a ceiling fan company, when we hired people for tech support, we looked for customer service experience. Not electrical knowledge of any kind.


There are still a few companies with knowledgeable tech support people, and even fewer with helpful knowledgeable tech support people. If you call a company and find out their tech support is like the company you came from, well, you realize you bought a product with basically no support and you probably wish you bought something else. When I get those zeroes on the phone, I keep it short, see if they are able to escalate the call to someone that might have some actual knowledge of the product, and remember what not to buy in the future.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

splatz said:


> There are still a few companies with knowledgeable tech support people, and even fewer with helpful knowledgeable tech support people. If you call a company and find out their tech support is like the company you came from, well, you realize you bought a product with basically no support and you probably wish you bought something else. When I get those zeroes on the phone, I keep it short, see if they are able to escalate the call to someone that might have some actual knowledge of the product, and remember what not to buy in the future.


It’s rare but they are out there.

Happened to me with a fire alarm company. Salesman told me a panel could do a certain thing but when it wasn’t working, I called tech support. The guy on the phone new that panel and others inside and out. Returned everything.


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## SomeJoe (Apr 9, 2021)

tech support for electricians from non-technicians...."sorry sir, it's out of warranty"


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

With a 50 amp outlet, it's easy to know if the proper voltage is available under load, pull the plug out about 1/8" or so and put the meter probes on the now exposed prongs. 

CAUTION!!! DANGER!! WARNING!! BE CAREFUL! PELIGRO!!!! Do not allow the probes to touch each other or any grounded surface..........


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

With a 50 amp outlet, it's easy to know if the proper voltage is available under load, pull the plug out about 1/8" or so and put the meter probes on the now exposed prongs. 

CAUTION!!! DANGER!! WARNING!! BE CAREFUL! PELIGRO!!!! Do not allow the probes to touch each other or any grounded surface..........


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