# best bit? (for wood)



## SparkyInCanadaEh (Mar 7, 2008)

:thumbsup: I find the auger bits to be the best. With regard to being pulled in or twisted... practice makes perfect. I've seen a few giants get thrown, especially on the old corded Makita. No chuck on those.


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## Tangible (Aug 24, 2007)

anybody got experience with any of these?

Forstner bit









Self feed wood bit











SparkyInCanadaEh said:


> :thumbsup: I find the auger bits to be the best. With regard to being pulled in or twisted... practice makes perfect. I've seen a few giants get thrown, especially on the old corded Makita. No chuck on those.


do you know a good site to order them from?


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## SparkyInCanadaEh (Mar 7, 2008)

I actually have a couple forstner bits but still prefer the auger myself. I like the auger because I don't have to use a ladder. It takes a good beating to.:thumbup:


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## Podagrower (Mar 16, 2008)

For rough-in on a new house, nothing beats an auger bit. Something in the 5/8 to 3/4 range works quite nice. They are fairly easy to sharpen. The forstner bits work better than a hole saw in wood, imo, but I never used a small one, only the 2" for service cable. Lots of service area to dress up on a forstner bit.
I always kept an 18 inch extension on the van for drilling out top plates on ten foot walls without a ladder. 

If you keep the drill trigger in your left hand, when the drill bit stops, it will spin the drill out of your hand, and save you a lot of pain.


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## Tiger (Jan 3, 2008)

Self-feed bits with a right angle drill on slow speed.

Dave


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## BryanMD (Dec 31, 2007)

Greenlee Auger Bits.

When they get dull sit your butt down with a flat file and dress the leading edge.
Do this enough and the boss will learn to buy new bits more often.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

7/8" Nail Eater lenox auger.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

I second the guys that said the Greenlee Nail Eater Augers are best, and for self feeds I like the Milwaukees. The whole thing to keep self feeds working fine is to avoid nails as often as possible, a stud scanner/metal detector works fine for that job. Those large 3 5/8" or 4 5/8" bits are way to expensive to screw up. Forstners are too damn slow and too easily damaged.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

7/8's auger on new construction and irwin paddle bits for service work.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Auger bits can also be sharpened professionally, or in the field as needed with Lenox's Slim Taper File, part #32510. I keep one in the case with my Milwaukee Hole Hawg.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

For the main drilling go with a 7/8 or 15/16 bit like this one: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100163

For small stuff where you're running through places you don't feel like dragging a cord and don't need to drill deep this is my favorite: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/images/large/3041004_lg.jpg


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

I can't believe this poor guy is having to buy his own drill bits to do his bosses work. What is this world coming to?


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## Tangible (Aug 24, 2007)

Joe Momma said:


> I can't believe this poor guy is having to buy his own drill bits to do his bosses work. What is this world coming to?


:laughing:, he keeps us with a decent 90% of the time, I just want a "back-up" stash for those occasions when all the bits are crappy. They use these bits:









so you know they often can run through them before the end of the job day


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

I like the auger bits with a good small file.

We did a job with a lot of wood drilling and the guy behind the drill kept filing the top edge the bit. Of course that makes the bit sharp but will not self feed anymore. Always sharpen the underside of the cutting edge.


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## KayJay (Jan 20, 2008)

Years ago, I used to work for a company that was cheap just like this guys boss. They whine about how expensive it was to keep replacing drill bits but don’t seem to understand that productivity goes way down when your guys are beating themselves and your drill motors up trying to burn holes through studs and joists.
It’s even worse when they have some shop idiot who thinks he knows how to sharpen drill bits, collect all the bits from the trucks and return them to you as if they are perfectly restored, when they are now actually completely useless.
How many roughs do they think you can get out of one bit? I’m lucky if I get maybe three before major professional sharpening or replacement needs to be done.

I don’t doink around when it comes to bits. I keep several sharp 3/4” 7/8”, 1” X 7-3/4” and 18” long Nail-Eaters on my truck along with 12” and 18” extensions and just about every size of standard 6” length and 16” extra long paddle bit. I also always keep a 7/8” to 4-1/2” Greenlee hole saw kit with extra arbors and pilot bits onboard.
I carry a Milwaukee self-feed auger set that goes up to 2-9/16” along with single 3-5/8” and 4-5/8” auger bits. 
The only bad thing about the Milwaukee bits is that I don’t know how much softer the Taiwanese can make the steel. There is no way these are as durable as the bits I used maybe twenty years ago but, the at least price has dropped a lot over the last ten years or so.


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

KayJay said:


> Years ago, I used to work for a company that was cheap just like this guys boss. They whine about how expensive it was to keep replacing drill bits but don’t seem to understand that productivity goes way down when your guys are beating themselves and your drill motors up trying to burn holes through studs and joists.


Never in my life have I supplied a drill bit, a hacksaw blade, or a razor knife blade to a contractor. (Unless it came free with the tool) 

Rule 17: Employers shall provide for the sharpening of all cutting tools.

Tangible, what will you do when the boss's drills start crapping out? Provide your own? I wouldn't worry about your productivity going down due to a dull drill bit since obviously the person who should be most worried about it, isn't.


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## chenley (Feb 20, 2007)

Last time I used a 2" Forstner bit it got kinked in the wood, spun the 90 degree Dewalt drill out of my hand. Ended up slamming into the cieling joist and putting a fairly large crack in the collar of the drill. Now I just use the hole saws that we have. Bought my own personal arbor kit since most of ours are rusty and it involves a hammer to switch the out. 

For studs we have always used Nail Eater Augers, I love them.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Bkessler said:


> 7/8's auger on new construction and irwin paddle bits for service work.


IMO paddle bits bind up more and cause issues wih drill clutches or the operators wrists than any other bit I have ever used.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

randomkiller said:


> IMO paddle bits bind up more and cause issues wih drill clutches or the operators wrists than any other bit I have ever used.


I only use paddle bits on remod work, up in the attic and such. Auger bits are a must when doing new work. Also the whole house needs to be drilled out at once and the drill put away. My standard bet with apprentices is I will drill out the whole house and for every hole I miss I will give you a dollar, and when the fire stopping is done I get a dollar for every hole that the apprentice misses fire stopping. I always win.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

or a razor knife blade to a contractor.[/quote]

So if you buy a new razor knife you take the free blades out and wait for your boss to give you a new one. Is it a trade in the dull blade for a sharp one deal?


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

Bkessler said:


> I only use paddle bits on remod work, up in the attic and such. Auger bits are a must when doing new work. Also the whole house needs to be drilled out at once and the drill put away. My standard bet with apprentices is I will drill out the whole house and for every hole I miss I will give you a dollar, and when the fire stopping is done I get a dollar for every hole that the apprentice misses fire stopping. I always win.


Like taking candy from a baby. You must be proud.


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## frank (Feb 6, 2007)

Those flat bits are best. Cheap and chearful. Easy to resharpen and no big loss if they get lost or break. It is the only tool I insist upon being in good order. Otherwise lets say for chiseling etc - a screwdriver will do,

Frank


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## te12co2w (Jun 3, 2007)

Love those nail eaters, but they are not really nail eaters. After several nails those are hard to push also. My complaint is that no one else ever wants to sharpen bits on his truck. I am obsessive about protecting the cutting edges of my bits and they are almost always sharp, unless I have someone else working with me. Then they are almost always dull.


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## Super_33 (Jan 12, 2008)

Nail eaters are nice for certain situations but for the most part, a woodchuck bit will do nicely. They're easy to sharpen (if done correctly) and they're not terribly expensive. If you want to use a certain length shank but that shank has a crappy head on it you can always swap them out with eachother. And since they're pretty cheap your boss shouldn't have too hard a time replacing them every 2 or 3 roughs. Let me know if you want tips on how to correctly sharpen a woodchuck bit.

http://woodchuckdrill.com/ I'm referring to the bit at the top of the page.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

Joe Momma said:


> I can't believe this poor guy is having to buy his own drill bits to do his bosses work. What is this world coming to?


if all he has to buy is bits then hes lucky. i have to supply my own hole hogs, nail eaters, self feed bits, hole saws, knock out punches, unibits, cordless tools, megger, meters,sawzall, sawzall blades, fish sticks,safety glasses, dust masks, latex gloves, twist drill bits, ratchet cable cutters, files and the list goes on. one time i even had to use some of my personal cable splitters for a job that i have yet to be reinburst on.


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## SparkyInCanadaEh (Mar 7, 2008)

Do you have to supply the customers as well?


electricalperson said:


> if all he has to buy is bits then hes lucky. i have to supply my own hole hogs, nail eaters, self feed bits, hole saws, knock out punches, unibits, cordless tools, megger, meters,sawzall, sawzall blades, fish sticks,safety glasses, dust masks, latex gloves, twist drill bits, ratchet cable cutters, files and the list goes on. one time i even had to use some of my personal cable splitters for a job that i have yet to be reinburst on.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

SparkyInCanadaEh said:


> Do you have to supply the customers as well?


no i just make the boss money while i spend all my money to buy tools to make him even more money


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## wire_twister (Feb 14, 2008)

You should go into auto mechanics things are the same there, supply everything but the customers, and give the boss half of your labor. Took me 10 years to figure out it was a damn fool way to try to make a living.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

wire_twister said:


> You should go into auto mechanics things are the same there, supply everything but the customers, and give the boss half of your labor. Took me 10 years to figure out it was a damn fool way to try to make a living.


what happens if i burn out a drill or snap a bit or two? who gets stuck buying me new stuff when i break my personal tools? i do. companies need to supply the proper tools and the electricians need to only supply the basic hand tools and the ocmpany needs to replace them when they break. were hired at companies to make them money. my boss even takes my tools and uses them and i sometimes never get them back.


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## Tangible (Aug 24, 2007)

LawnGuyLandSparky said:


> Never in my life have I supplied a drill bit, a hacksaw blade, or a razor knife blade to a contractor. (Unless it came free with the tool)
> 
> Rule 17: Employers shall provide for the sharpening of all cutting tools.
> 
> Tangible, what will you do when the boss's drills start crapping out? Provide your own? I wouldn't worry about your productivity going down due to a dull drill bit since obviously the person who should be most worried about it, isn't.


I mean, I understand where you guys are coming from. My boss is full of b.s. and it's definitely not a good situation to be in. However, my boss is/was my instructor (graduate Friday) and it's the most convenient situation right now... mostly because of my license/transportation situation...... can't join the union without a driver's license, and most of the open shop jobs are asking for it too. I figure, it's best that I just deal with him until I get my license and transportation in order, then I'll move on to something decent.

An emergency bit is more so to help me, than him.


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## SparkyInCanadaEh (Mar 7, 2008)

sounds like you need to start looking for a new gig.:whistling2:


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## kjw444 (Jan 14, 2008)

The trick is to NOT hit any nails. As soon as I feel a nail I stop and make a new hole. I can average about 10-11 houses out of a 3/4" ideal nailbitter or whatever its called. This is also without any fileing.


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## Tangible (Aug 24, 2007)

SparkyInCanadaEh said:


> sounds like you need to start looking for a new gig.:whistling2:


man, I've done tutored guys who've graduated before me, who have good jobs while I'm much more talented and smarter than them, it's just because they have transportation and I don't. I mean, I'm sure some shops will hire a guy with no ride, but it seems they don't adverterise, lol


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

SparkyInCanadaEh said:


> I actually have a couple forstner bits but still prefer the auger myself. I like the auger because I don't have to use a ladder. It takes a good beating to.:thumbup:


I tried a forsner bit by mistake for a 2 inch hole.Almost tore my arm off. You want a Milwaukee self feed bit,shaves wood like a planer.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

electricalperson said:


> if all he has to buy is bits then hes lucky. i have to supply my own hole hogs, nail eaters, self feed bits, hole saws, knock out punches, unibits, cordless tools, megger, meters,sawzall, sawzall blades, fish sticks,safety glasses, dust masks, latex gloves, twist drill bits, ratchet cable cutters, files and the list goes on. one time i even had to use some of my personal cable splitters for a job that i have yet to be reinburst on.


Man you're just getting taken advantage of. When you walk in the shop in the morning do you automatically drop your drawers and touch your toes?


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

gilbequick said:


> Man you're just getting taken advantage of. When you walk in the shop in the morning do you automatically drop your drawers and touch your toes?


seems like thats how it is


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

but anyway, i have a nice kit of forsner bits i got at the supply house for 40 dollars. i use it to remove studs if i hit one when cutting in a box. also i love using self feed bits they work great when installing chases in houses and doing vacuum systems. they work great. just becareful when using the hole hawg since the hole hawg doesnt really have any safety features and you will be spinning off the ladder and your arms might look like pretzels


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## GregS (May 22, 2007)

Another vote for augers and Milwaukee self-feeds. I only use spades when I don't have the right sized auger.

Augers are great for depth as they (usually) do not get clogged up when drilling through stacked x2 lumber.

I still use twist bits on 1/4" holes for security wire.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

GregS said:


> Another vote for augers and Milwaukee self-feeds. I only use spades when I don't have the right sized auger.
> 
> Augers are great for depth as they (usually) do not get clogged up when drilling through stacked x2 lumber.
> 
> I still use twist bits on 1/4" holes for security wire.


only reason i dont like paddle bits is they tend to break a lot. although those greenlee self feed paddle bits were pretty nice for a while


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

electricalperson said:


> if all he has to buy is bits then hes lucky. i have to supply my own hole hogs, nail eaters, self feed bits, hole saws, knock out punches, unibits, cordless tools, megger, meters,sawzall, sawzall blades, fish sticks,safety glasses, dust masks, latex gloves, twist drill bits, ratchet cable cutters, files and the list goes on. one time i even had to use some of my personal cable splitters for a job that i have yet to be reinburst on.


 
Who's the boss and who's the employee? Oh, but he shares the profits with you, right? One more case for being pro union.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

wire_twister said:


> You should go into auto mechanics things are the same there, supply everything but the customers, and give the boss half of your labor. Took me 10 years to figure out it was a damn fool way to try to make a living.


 
Life is tough, Life is tougher when you are stupid

I love the signature line, it's so appropriate for this thread.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

randomkiller said:


> Who's the boss and who's the employee? Oh, but he shares the profits with you, right? One more case for being pro union.


i wouldnt mind being union as long as they do just commercial or industrial work. thats the stuff i want to do. no more residental for me. i heard they have a required tool list and your not allowed to have whats not on the list. is that true?


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

electricalperson said:


> what happens if i burn out a drill or snap a bit or two? who gets stuck buying me new stuff when i break my personal tools? i do. companies need to supply the proper tools and the electricians need to only supply the basic hand tools and the ocmpany needs to replace them when they break. were hired at companies to make them money. my boss even takes my tools and uses them and i sometimes never get them back.


What's wrong with this picture? Wise up bud. Can your employement outlook be this poor?


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

electricalperson said:


> i wouldnt mind being union as long as they do just commercial or industrial work. thats the stuff i want to do. no more residental for me. i heard they have a required tool list and your not allowed to have whats not on the list. is that true?


There isn't a union tool police that will come inspect your bag and fine you for over doing it. I have a few things that make my life easier in mine, if they get broken it's on me. Fortunetly, I have a great boss when it comes to tools. If I ask for something, I get it. I have enough on my truck to supply three guys if need be.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

randomkiller said:


> What's wrong with this picture? Wise up bud. Can your employement outlook be this poor?


dont worry im looking for another place to work or might go out on my own once i get a business plan. whats the benefits of the union verses a merit shop?


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

electricalperson said:


> dont worry im looking for another place to work or might go out on my own once i get a business plan. whats the benefits of the union verses a merit shop?


Well right off the bat, you don't supply more than your basic handtools, that alone will save you big bucks annually. I believe health and retirement benefits are much better through the Union. Work conditions are better as well. You need to look up some of the threads here that have turned into this debate. They are easy to find, they tend to have over 2000 views and several hundred replies. IMHO, if you went Union you would never believe the difference.


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

electricalperson said:


> no i just make the boss money while i spend all my money to buy tools to make him even more money


Are you only here to stir the $hit? (quote "I drill out the studs when I hit one cutting in a box") You'll find that people don't care for being teased in that manner around here.


For everyone who didn't take wood shop in high school(or perhaps it was too long ago to remember) Forstner bits are designed for a drill press, they're made to give a smooth flat bottomed hole for when you don't want to punch all the way through. Any self feed type bit (augers, etc.) are designed for hand held drills, and can really screw up a drill press.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

Joe Momma said:


> Are you only here to stir the $hit? (quote "I drill out the studs when I hit one cutting in a box") You'll find that people don't care for being teased in that manner around here.
> 
> 
> For everyone who didn't take wood shop in high school(or perhaps it was too long ago to remember) Forstner bits are designed for a drill press, they're made to give a smooth flat bottomed hole for when you don't want to punch all the way through. Any self feed type bit (augers, etc.) are designed for hand held drills, and can really screw up a drill press.


what are you talking about. i have a set of forsner bits that i use. reason why? the point doesnt go through the sheetrock when the cutters reach where i want it to be. i dont know where you think i was teasing anyone. i think its faster than a chisle


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

I use Greenlee ship augers for smaller holes. I've tried to keep away from the self feed bits, although I do like them. I've been using hole saws for larger holes. It might take a bit longer, but hitting a nail doesn't matter - it will just drill through, instead of trying to twist my arm off.


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