# Residential Lighting



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

I would not suggest anything, I would give him exactly what he asked for. They do waste a little light, but people really like the looks. I install the m often, and when laid out proportional to the room, it looks really professional. I just finished an apartment that has 32 in it.


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## BryanMD (Dec 31, 2007)

There is NO percentage in being too "helpful".

Put it ALL on them while doing some basic CYA at the same time:
Dig out your large page graph paper and sketch up the room as close to scale as practical (relative to your service charge rates)... and let THEM show YOU where they want the fixtures located. Save a second conversation by indicating how the joists run and the C/L.

No good deed goes unpunished.


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## Notelitus (Sep 18, 2009)

mcclary's electrical said:


> I would not suggest anything, I would give him exactly what he asked for. They do waste a little light, but people really like the looks. I install the m often, and when laid out proportional to the room, it looks really professional. I just finished an apartment that has 32 in it.


What was above the apartment? 

Everytime I get something like that, an apartment with a lot of high hats, there is always a unit above them and I have to make many holes. Sometimes you luck out and get trusses or space to push the wire under if the ceiling is hung on furring strips for isolation.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Notelitus said:


> What was above the apartment?
> 
> Everytime I get something like that, an apartment with a lot of high hats, there is always a unit above them and I have to make many holes. Sometimes you luck out and get trusses or space to push the wire under if the ceiling is hung on furring strips for isolation.


If there's an apartment above it, The ceiling becomes fire rated and cans cost alot more to install. The easiest method is to install a fireproof cap that goes over rough in can and meets the sheetrock. They do make fire rated cans though. 

But in this instance, there was a full attic above the apartment, and the ceiling did not have a 2hr fire rating.


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

Stardrill said:


> A customer requested that I install 6" recessed lights in his living room and bedroom. I am not a lighting designer by any stretch of the imagination, but this does not seem to be the right approach to lighting these rooms.
> 
> Would anyone share what they might do in this situation?
> 
> ...


Well what would you rather do?? Track lights, half hots, ceiling lights, LV track? Recessed lighting is pretty common around here in the bedrooms and living rooms. Sometimes we put four in a room in a square shape maybe with a paddle fan in the middle of the room, or maybe two to four 4 inch cans a foot from the wall where the bed is going to be to act as reading lights. The sky is the limit.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

For most big rooms I usually go with 5 or 6 inch cans. You get the maximum lumens per watt. Four inch can work too but I find that you have to install more of them due to less wattage. But .....installing more can acually work to your benifit. lets say instead of 6 cans in a room you go with 8 now you have more pull points to snake in the wire without cutting uncessacary holes. But most people will opt for the bigger cans simply for cost factor.
Why dont you like high hats....? high hats provide a nice even light to the whole room. you can always add sconces to layer the lighting a bit more and possible add a semi flush mount to bring another angle of light in the room. The possibilities are endless, but High hats are a good start.


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## Stardrill (Mar 8, 2008)

Thanks for your responses, I guess I was trying to be too helpful.

I'll remember to give the customer what he wants.

Thanks again


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

I did a hi hat job about a month ago. Installed 18 6 inch cans and then for some reason the lady wanted 10 fout inch cans in her MBR. And she wanted them in specific spots. Four over the bed, four along another wall, two by another wall, It really bother me for some reason, because it was a silly layout for a big room.But I did what she wanted and just like I though, the room was dark. Oh well maybe she will have me back adding more or sconces. The big cans made more sense. The other rooms and rest of the house had 6 inchers and they were better lit.


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## got2climb (Aug 12, 2009)

My usual lay out is about 4' off the walls and every 5' thereafter. Use a laser to line them up and place on an electronic dimmer for a nice effect. I think 5" looks more modern than 6". CFLs do work but are not very compatible with dimmers. Design the lay out and switching with the customer, they love it and frequently seals the bid.


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## lladnek (Oct 8, 2009)

Many years ago I was new to installing can lights in residential buildings because I was a commerical electrician for years and was used to new construction or drop ceiling can light installs.

I found a trick to use my compass and grab some card board boxes. Cut the holes out of the cardboard and then place them where they wanted them. This way there is no permenant sheetrock damage done yet and they can approve the layout prior to cutting the holes.

The customer was really satisfied. I also used string and nails for the straight lines for my first gig because i was poor and couldnt afford a laser level at the time.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

lladnek said:


> Many years ago I was new to installing can lights in residential buildings because I was a commerical electrician for years and was used to new construction or drop ceiling can light installs.
> 
> I found a trick to use my compass and grab some card board boxes. Cut the holes out of the cardboard and then place them where they wanted them. This way there is no permenant sheetrock damage done yet and they can approve the layout prior to cutting the holes.
> 
> The customer was really satisfied. I also used string and nails for the straight lines for my first gig because i was poor and couldnt afford a laser level at the time.


 
Didn't they come with a template?


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## Ohmslawman (Jan 18, 2009)

I would talk to the customer about installing some track lights .The led type would be a good choice.I have had the problem before of a customer wanting some recessed cans installed which is a different story when you get in the attic and there is framing in the way and the cans cannot be positioned where the customer wants them.


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## Jupe Blue (Aug 18, 2008)

I'm not a lighting designer either (just a regular old electician)... but I did layout and put 6 - 6" cans in a friend's living room (maybe 13'x15') and painted the ceiling a nice creamy tan color. These replaced her center ceiling light and she says she gets tons of compliments on the updated lights. So, I think cans are totally appropriate for a living room.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

I think the 6" cans are a good choice. I have installed thousands (tens of thousands??) of them over the years. You don't get enough light spread from a 4" can. 5" cans are a decent alternative but the trim selections are limited.

Actually, I hate the design and construction of the can and I hate that you can see the silver/white guts thru a standard baffle trim and I hate that the dust from the attic will obviously seep thru the holes in the cans.....but the light is good.

Ambient light = general light with cans placed proportionally in the room.

Task light = specific placement for working/reading.

Accent light = specific placement for artwork or feature walls.

Grazing = placing light as close as you can to show texture on things like rock/brick firplace walls.

I use a combination of these when placing overhead lighting. If it's a generic 12x12 bedroom with no framing issues, I would probably lay them out square, 24 to 30" off the walls/corners. If there was a desk in the room I would consider that and make sure there was good light there. If they liked to read in bed I might place something 12" out from the headboard wall.

Same principals in the living room. General lighting layed out proportionally or a combination of things. 2' off the walls will cast light on any artwork present or future as well as into the room. 18 to 24" would be good placement over sofas/seating.

Also, some people like to see things lined up and aren't concerned about light effect. Don't argue with them, just accept it. Put a note on your proposal that states that exact placement may vary due to framing issues. A hip roof on a corner room is likely to have a joist running diagonally. If you are laying out the cans proportionally to the room, it's a good idea to probe all locations first as moving one can will/may affect the others.

PS. Although it's not energy efficient, we still use 75 watt halogen lamps because they look good. If they don't need to pop and they don't need a dimmer, use CFL's


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## lladnek (Oct 8, 2009)

Go with 6" cans for sure. I just put 4 6" cans in my movie room and just got finished today. I spaced them a little different than normally done due to a projector screen that I have. I didn't want any lighting getting on my screen area that was going to be projected upon. I then put some lighting about 3' off the back wall so if you were to use the smart lighting you would only have to turn on that zone of lighting.

Ideally for regular rooms I typically place can lights no further than 2' away from a wall so you get the wall wash effect of the can lights. This looks really appealing when you have a large room. Typically 12-18" from the wall gives the best effect. Good luck!


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## Adil Mania (Oct 29, 2009)

lights are normally powered by the electric grid, but some run on local generators, and emergency generators serve as backups in hospitals and other locations where a loss of power could be catastrophic. Battery-powered lights, usually called "flashlights" or "torches", are used for portability and as backups when the main lights fail.


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## Ima Hack (Aug 31, 2009)

Adil Mania said:


> lights are normally powered by the electric grid, but some run on local generators, and emergency generators serve as backups in hospitals and other locations where a loss of power could be catastrophic. Battery-powered lights, usually called "flashlights" or "torches", are used for portability and as backups when the main lights fail.


You lost me dude. :blink:

Welcome to the forum.


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