# Impact or Hammer Drill



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Welcome aboard @hankwilson!

In this case I'd go for the XPT03 
18V LXT® Lithium‑Ion Cordless Hybrid 4‑Function Impact‑Hammer‑Driver‑Drill.

I like Makita and always have, this seems like a great tool.


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Welcome aboard @hankwilson!
> 
> In this case I'd go for the XPT03
> 18V LXT® Lithium‑Ion Cordless Hybrid 4‑Function Impact‑Hammer‑Driver‑Drill.
> ...


I was thinking the same. The impact and hammer drill function isn?t as strong or fast(judging from specs) as the individual tools but it seems like it would be more than enough power for a residential electrician. I also was leaning towards it since it?s only one tool I have to carry.


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## electricalwiz (Mar 12, 2011)

hankwilson said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am beginning my career as a residential electrician. I?m confused on what drill or drivers to buy. I will mostly encounter machine screws from 6/32 to 10/32, drilling holes no bigger than a inch through wooden studs(mostly 2x4 and 2x6) and drilling holes in concrete and brick. I?m conflicted between these 2 choices:
> 
> ...



I would buy the XT268 as it is the newer model and has the 5.0 batteries 
The XTP has 3.0 batteries which they seem to phasing out, and the 5.0 batteries do not fit the 3.0 tools


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

Do you think the hammer drill and impact driver in the kit is overkill for a residential electrician, as far as getting the job done? Price is the same for kit and the 4 in 1


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

You may also want to check out the M18 Red ones...
https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/power-tools/cordless?product+systems=m18+fuel&product+types=drills










A good starter set...
https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/power-tools/combo-kits/2897-22










A Hackzall is a nice addition...


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

hankwilson said:


> Do you think the hammer drill and impact driver in the kit is overkill for a residential electrician, as far as getting the job done? Price is the same for kit and the 4 in 1


No. Get the kit. If you have em you will use em. Tools... gotta have em.


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

electricalwiz said:


> hankwilson said:
> 
> 
> > Hi,
> ...


The website says the 5.0 batteries will fit any other Makita 18v that are Star Protected and/or has yellow battery receiver. The XTP does


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

For machine screws while installing devices, use one of these
It comes with two batteries, charger and tool case.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

That Makita combination drill / hammer drill / impact driver is pretty cool, I will be looking for some reviews on that tool. 

However keep in mind that with the 1/4" hex chuck you can get most anything, but you might have to look harder or pay more for some things. For example if you use flex bits I am not sure there are 1/4" hex shank flex bits, larger masonry bits, step bits, etc.


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## Sprague22 (Mar 23, 2011)

hankwilson said:


> Do you think the hammer drill and impact driver in the kit is overkill for a residential electrician, as far as getting the job done? Price is the same for kit and the 4 in 1


I have a kit, dewalt but i have the impact and the hammer drill, its worth it, i use both drills alot. The impact us a very handy drill

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

I don?t want to make the mistake of buying a drill/driver that is not powerful enough but I also don?t want to over pay for power I won?t use. How much torque, rpm and bpm will I really need? Do I need a 5.0ah or will the 4.0ah be fine? 

Any suggestions outside of these drills would be helpful also?


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

hankwilson said:


> I don?t want to make the mistake of buying a drill/driver that is not powerful enough but I also don?t want to over pay for power I won?t use. How much torque, rpm and bpm will I really need? Do I need a 5.0ah or will the 4.0ah be fine?
> 
> Any suggestions outside of these drills would be helpful also?


700 in lbs is tons of power. 450 in lbs will get you through most things. There are drill making 1200 in lbs now. Light compact drills are what I prefer.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

hankwilson said:


> Do you think the hammer drill and impact driver in the kit is overkill for a residential electrician, as far as getting the job done? Price is the same for kit and the 4 in 1


Doing resi work a hammer drill, impact, multi-tool, and reciprocating saw will do just about everything you need done.

I carry all but the recip saw doing resi service.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

daveEM said:


> You may also want to check out the M18 Red ones...
> https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/power-tools/cordless?product+systems=m18+fuel&product+types=drills
> 
> 
> ...


Unless I know I'm using a large self feed bit I don't ever bring an 18v drill.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

3DDesign said:


> For machine screws while installing devices, use one of these
> It comes with two batteries, charger and tool case.


I use this one all the time and love it.


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

I’m leaning towards this kit. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-G...06127587?keyword=Ridgid+R9205&searchtype=text


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

hankwilson said:


> I’m leaning towards this kit. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-G...06127587?keyword=Ridgid+R9205&searchtype=text


Have you ever tried a Ridgid cordless powertool?

They remind me of Russian engineering, huge, heavy, clunky, but bulletproof.

I prefer smaller, lighter, and able to get the same work done with less bulk and more finesse.

If you weren't going to go the typical Milwaukee route than the Makita line in my experience would have been a great choice.

I worked in a shop that had a large toolcrib with many brands of cordless tools to pick from.

Once the guys had used most of the brands and were picking a brand to carry on their own truck/van Milwaukee or Makita was the first choice.


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Have you ever tried a Ridgid cordless powertool?
> 
> They remind me of Russian engineering, huge, heavy, clunky, but bulletproof.
> 
> ...


Makita's black sub compact drill was awesome. I've been looking for an excuse to buy the drill/impact/sawzall combo.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Have you ever tried a Ridgid cordless powertool?
> 
> They remind me of Russian engineering, huge, heavy, clunky, but bulletproof.


That's a good description. That Rigid set really isn't bad and they have a lifetime warranty. But with those big clunkers you'll really want a small 12V impact or cordless screwdriver for trim-out. (Then again at that price you can afford it...) 

If you want a full line for electrical work Milwaukee's got Rigid beat by a mile. That is probably more of a concern for your employer than you right now.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TGGT said:


> Makita's black sub compact drill was awesome. I've been looking for an excuse to buy the drill/impact/sawzall combo.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


The only reason that kept me from buying more Makita in the past was availability.

Of the brands available to me at the time I liked Milwaukee the most.

I had bought DeWalt for my home shop that was basically carpentry wood working related.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> That's a good description. That Rigid set really isn't bad and they have a lifetime warranty. But with those big clunkers you'll really want a small 12V impact or cordless screwdriver for trim-out. (Then again at that price you can afford it...)
> 
> If you want a full line for electrical work Milwaukee's got Rigid beat by a mile. That is probably more of a concern for your employer than you right now.


Thanks!

I can't imagine carrying and using a set of Ridgid outside of being in a shop/fixed location. 

Hanging one of those monsters off a pocket or in a holster would be brutal.

The M12 line does 99% of what I need.

The 18v tools I have are only for much more serious construction projects that would normally require corded tools.

Cutting tree branches or fence posts I use the 18v sawzall.

2 1/8" forstner bits the 18v RAD.

Concrete drilling the 18v SDS.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Around here Residential electricians just don't punch concrete.

And you imply that you're a newbie.

The usual drill for apprentices is that they need only the most basic cordless tools.

Forget about buying high-end 'trick' multi-purpose tools.

Impact drivers -- just the basics -- have supplanted drill-drivers of old.

Your typical task will be to run in fasteners -- or to punch holes.

Most Residential hole punching is done with company supplied tools -- not yours.


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

telsa said:


> Around here Residential electricians just don't punch concrete.
> 
> And you imply that you're a newbie.
> 
> ...


Yes a newbie. I do jobs with a independent electrician no company. We work in 95% brick row houses. He's one of those guys that just buys whats on sale and buys another once a drill breaks lol Drilling through studs and joist is the most we really do with the drill but we do have to make holes in the brick for service entry cable and to drive screws in the brick to secure the cable, hang meter socket etc.

Just was curious to what most electricians use the most. Im kind of obsessed with drills lol


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

Not to mention making a hole through concrete for the ground rod


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Your boss ought to be supplying that gear, IMHO.

BTW, brick drills quite a bit differently than concrete -- so famously stuffed with rebar.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

hankwilson said:


> Yes a newbie. I do jobs with a independent electrician no company. We work in 95% brick row houses. He's one of those guys that just buys whats on sale and buys another once a drill breaks lol Drilling through studs and joist is the most we really do with the drill but we do have to make holes in the brick for service entry cable and to drive screws in the brick to secure the cable, hang meter socket etc.
> 
> Just was curious to what most electricians use the most. Im kind of obsessed with drills lol


Get yourself a Milwaukee or Makita hammer drill/impact combo and let your boss supply the tools for things like masonry holes as you mentioned.

An M12 impact on your belt is more than enough for what you should be concerned with doing.


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## hankwilson (Oct 3, 2017)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Get yourself a Milwaukee or Makita hammer drill/impact combo and let your boss supply the tools for things like masonry holes as you mentioned.
> 
> An M12 impact on your belt is more than enough for what you should be concerned with doing.


Something like these https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-XR-...-Cordless-Combo-Kit-with-Soft-Case/1000083557

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1...-Tool-w-2-4Ah-Batteries-Case-XT269M/207054643

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1...-Charger-Case-XT263M/300786822?keyword=XT263M

I like this kit but im thinking its overkill for me right now http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1...h-Case-XT268T/300383694?keyword=makita+xt268t


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

hankwilson said:


> Something like these https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-XR-...-Cordless-Combo-Kit-with-Soft-Case/1000083557
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1...-Tool-w-2-4Ah-Batteries-Case-XT269M/207054643
> 
> ...



Any of those Makita kits will do you just fine and last you a long time.

DeWalt will let you down, as they don't hold up unless you baby them and that still isn't a guaranty. 

I have a bunch of 18v DeWalt I used just in my home and around my houses I'm trying to sell off to upgrade to Milwaukee and Makita.

On the job I've never seen them hold up well.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Any of those Makita kits will do you just fine and last you a long time.
> 
> DeWalt will let you down, as they don't hold up unless you baby them and that still isn't a guaranty.
> 
> ...


Aint it the truth.

For the readers: virtually ALL modern batteries are made either in Japan or under Japanese patents// manufacture in Red Chinese plants.

These players are selling their stuff to (within) EVERY brand you can touch... I mean every last one.


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

I could tell you all about all the tools that I own as a contractor, but you're a beginning apprentice, right? An M12 Fuel impact is all you really need. Or, get the M18 if you want to be boring framing, which it will scream through with a Daredevil or Speedbor, but it won't be as nice on your belt. Anything more is the responsibility of the guy you're working for.


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## Everett529 (May 22, 2016)

I'd have to agree with most of the above. A basic impact and a basic drill should be all you need. I'd not look at a multi device. I started with 14.4v Makita, made the switch to 18v Makita, and haven't looked back. I like the feel of the Makitas much better than my coworkers M18 stuff, feel is different for everyone.

Couple years ago, I started with the M12 Fuel line, and my 18v Makita get a lot less usage. M12 Fuel Impact by far gets used the most, and even that will drive Daredevil spade bits for boring wood very well.

$0.02


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> Aint it the truth.
> 
> For the readers: virtually ALL modern batteries are made either in Japan or under Japanese patents// manufacture in Red Chinese plants.
> 
> These players are selling their stuff to (within) EVERY brand you can touch... I mean every last one.


Wonder why Ryobi and Porter Cable batteries suck so badly?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Everett529 said:


> I'd have to agree with most of the above. A basic impact and a basic drill should be all you need. I'd not look at a multi device. I started with 14.4v Makita, made the switch to 18v Makita, and haven't looked back. I like the feel of the Makitas much better than my coworkers M18 stuff, feel is different for everyone.
> 
> Couple years ago, I started with the M12 Fuel line, and my 18v Makita get a lot less usage. M12 Fuel Impact by far gets used the most, and even that will drive Daredevil spade bits for boring wood very well.
> 
> $0.02


Doing a job of my own far from home one Saturday I had both DeWalt batteries I had with me crap out so I went out to a store and they were out of batteries.

But they had a Makita 18v impact on sale and the batteries were both semi charged, needless to say it finished that job and I've been happy with it since then.

I can't count the number of 3/8" strong tie anchors I've installed with it.


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## Tommy2000 (Mar 7, 2018)

hankwilson said:


> Hi,
> I am beginning my career as a residential electrician. I?m confused on what drill or drivers to buy.


Hammer Drill, But there are many factors you should consider when choosing the cordless hammer drill, like type, diameter of the holes, durability, speed, BPM, best bits etc. Just like this page article https://www.powertoollab.com/best-cordless-hammer-drill/ . In my experience, I am a an electrician used many drills, Dewalt drill cost effective, Makita is high quality, Bosch also is a recommended tool. Hope can help you.


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## paulengr (Oct 8, 2017)

I mostly do industrial including large (well above NEMA) motors including gear boxes, shafts, pumps, etc. Mostly I use a mid range M18 Fuel impact. I keep drooling on the big 1000 ft-lb impact but haven't bought one yet. Still hand wrenching the 1-1/4" and larger bolts. I've used the hammer drill function on my drill once then got pissed at the slow speed and went and got the Hilti gun to finish the job, setting 3/8" red head anchors. But that's not your average commercial/residential job.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Tommy2000 said:


> Hammer Drill, But there are many factors you should consider when choosing the cordless hammer drill, like type, diameter of the holes, durability, speed, BPM, best bits etc. Just like this page article https://www.powertoollab.com/best-cordless-hammer-drill/ . In my experience, I am a an electrician used many drills, Dewalt drill cost effective, Makita is high quality, Bosch also is a recommended tool. Hope can help you.


Every cordless drill I have is a hammer drill.

That said, unless you are drilling tiny holes for tapcons it is really a useless feature to have.

If one is doing commercial and or service work in general an impact will far outweigh any cordless hammer drill hands down.

If the need for a drill is so important to a person they can get a standard chuck with a 1/4" hex quick connect to go into their impact to hold regular shafted bits.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

paulengr said:


> I mostly do industrial including large (well above NEMA) motors including gear boxes, shafts, pumps, etc. Mostly I use a mid range M18 Fuel impact. I keep drooling on the big 1000 ft-lb impact but haven't bought one yet. Still hand wrenching the 1-1/4" and larger bolts. I've used the hammer drill function on my drill once then got pissed at the slow speed and went and got the Hilti gun to finish the job, setting 3/8" red head anchors. But that's not your average commercial/residential job.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


3/8" drop ins/redheads are common place in all the shops I've worked in for average commercial jobs.


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## Pete E (Jan 2, 2018)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Get yourself a Milwaukee or Makita hammer drill/impact combo and let your boss supply the tools for things like masonry holes as you mentioned.
> 
> An M12 impact on your belt is more than enough for what you should be concerned with doing.


Over here, of the common brands, I would venture Mikita is king, with Milwaukee the strong competition...

That said, I think if I lived in the States, the Milwaukee Fuel range would be my default choice and there would need to be very compelling reasons to switch to another brand, and then it would only be Mikita or maybe Bosch..

With regards the OP, given that he will probably end up with both 12v and 18V tools, there is no reason why he can't use two different brands.

I would certainly look at the M12 impact, and then an M12 drill driver as a start, but not sure about the hammer drill...

I think there could be an argument that a cordless 18V SDS is the way to go for brick and concrete? Or if you get a 18Vcordless hammer drill, maybe back it up with a cheap corded SDS given that its only for occasional use?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Pete E said:


> Over here, of the common brands, I would venture Mikita is king, with Milwaukee the strong competition...
> 
> That said, I think if I lived in the States, the Milwaukee Fuel range would be my default choice and there would need to be very compelling reasons to switch to another brand, and then it would only be Mikita or maybe Bosch..
> 
> ...


I have had a Makita 18v LXT impact since one of my DeWalts had died on a side job years ago and it's a fantastic tool.

If I they had all the same tools as the M12 line I may have been a Makita guy all along.

As for the 18v cordless SDS I have the older V18 SDS and it's a great tool comparable to corded in every respect.


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## Pete E (Jan 2, 2018)

Do you guys get "engineering" bricks used for residential construction over there? 

They were fairly common over here from Victorian times up to WW2. The standard red engineering brick was used for most of a typical build, but the even harder blue bricks were often used for the damp course and for "aesthetics" ...Both were often of solid construction and were fired to very high temps...

Both types are extremely difficult to drill even with standard corded power tools, but the blue ones verge on being almost impossible without special drill tips. I have never tried to use a cordless drill on them as I think it would be pointless...

The other problem was that many had recessed faces for the mortar so that from the outside, the finished mortar courses appear to be very narrow...It also seems that the mortars used were exceptionally hard as well...

Add to that houses from that period usually had exterior cavity walls where both the inner and outer "skins" were made from engineering brick plus any "skirting" on the inside was engineering tile so it really is a job to drill these....


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Pete E said:


> Do you guys get "engineering" bricks used for residential construction over there?
> 
> They were fairly common over here from Victorian times up to WW2. The standard red engineering brick was used for most of a typical build, but the even harder blue bricks were often used for the damp course and for "aesthetics" ...Both were often of solid construction and were fired to very high temps...
> 
> ...


Not familiar with the term 'engineering brick' but working in schools and hospitals I have come across bricks that are extremely hard and one has to use a smaller drill bit and then work up to the larger to avoid cracking the brick face or burning up the bit.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Not familiar with the term 'engineering brick' but working in schools and hospitals I have come across bricks that are extremely hard and one has to use a smaller drill bit and then work up to the larger to avoid cracking the brick face or burning up the bit.


Or use a sds hammer drill.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

For a couple of holes, the cordless 18v hammer drill is ok. More than a couple, a roto hammer is much easier. Haven't gotten a cordless roto hammer yet. The makita corded sds I have does well and has for about ten year now.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> Or use a sds hammer drill.


I am talking about using an SDS.

The brick will spall badly if you use a large bit alone.


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