# Drilling holes...



## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

Residential, wood framing, you mean?

I use a Milwaukee 1/2" D-handle (straight) with a 18" x 13/16" Greenlee ship auger.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Milwaukee Hole Hawg, Lenox 7/8" ship auger.

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/web...tegoryId=192137&fromSearch=Y&productId=684305

http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/SHIP_AUGER_BITS.html


If'n your speaking commercial, then a Greenlee Stud Punch.

http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=08377


Now, if you talking BIG commercial, and you need to punch a bunch o' holes in a panel that have no KOs from the factory, nuttin' beats a C-frame punch.

http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=15911


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## itsunclebill (Jan 16, 2007)

This depends. I own a Hole Hawg, a Milw. D handle rt angle drill, a DeWalt right angle stud borer, a Milw. Magnum 1/2 inch drill (the older model), an older 3/8 Milw. drill, and a Milw "mechanics" drill (chuck is offset at about 55 deg). I also have a 33 deg 30 inch extension for the right angle drill. And spares of several of these.

Floor joists almost always get drilled with the 33 deg extension and D handle with a stubby auger. I usually use the 3/8 with stubby auger or paddle bits to drill studs, up to 7/8 dia. Larger holes in studs get the Magnum, larger holes in joists get the Dewalt, big holes in plates get the Hawg. I use the lightest drill I can without tearing it up because I don't like hauling around the big stuff all day. Overhead the leverage on the DeWalt using the 2 handles is about right, the Hawg has to have the pipe handle or you'll get hurt eventually, but it'll drill anything

When I've only got a few floor joists or close studs the mechanics drill comes out as long as they're inch or less holes (the drill will take more abuse than my wrists will) because it's easy to bore horizontal holes with it. Good drill in a lot of close spots but will kill wrists using it all day.

I'm adament about drilling aligned holes for ease of pulling wire. While I've nothing against the guys that use the 18" augers, you have to drill alternate studs or joists from opposite sides to be able to pull wire easily, and it pulls a lot easier with straight ones. 

I suppose if I had to choose I'd get buy with the D handle and Magnum.

Bits have to have flutes to clean out chips if you're drilling through more than 1 2X or it's work to pull the bit back out - unless it's a large vertical hole. If the smaller self feed bits would clean out the chips I'd throw away augers and paddle bits.

Confused yet?:whistling2:


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## threewire (Jan 28, 2008)

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/web...tegoryId=192137&fromSearch=Y&productId=684309


May be a bit more expensive but well worth it. I used to use a regular hole hog and it would about rip my arms off every time i hit a nail, but the super hole hog has a clutch to prevent arms from getting ripped off. It is a little heavier and awkward at first but you get used to it.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Don't forget about using the 30° extension for taller ceilings!


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

threewire said:


> http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/web...tegoryId=192137&fromSearch=Y&productId=684309
> 
> 
> May be a bit more expensive but well worth it. I used to use a regular hole hog and it would about rip my arms off every time i hit a nail, but the super hole hog has a clutch to prevent arms from getting ripped off. It is a little heavier and awkward at first but you get used to it.


 
Funny how much that looks like the old timerwolf.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

I have an older Milwaukee right angle, hole hawg, and 1/2" magnum drills on my truck for heavy duty stuff and an 18v rt. angle for holes smaller than 1 1/8".


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Don't forget about using the 30° extension for taller ceilings!


As also Unk mentioned, THIS is my drill of preference! 7'-10' ceilings and any walls or floors. This drill rocks! My back and knees are forever in debt to Milwaukee for this drill.

For big or fast work I have a SuperHawg as well. That drill is a TANK and will drill faster than you can clear the chips, in almost ANY size hole!

I have several others as well, like a P-C RA drill that is beefy, and others, but they usually only come out when more are needed.

For a quick few holes I just grab a battery drill. I have many spade bits and a few small (~5/8") augers. Much better than dragging out a big drill and cords for a couple of holes.


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## KayJay (Jan 20, 2008)

The DW124 is what I normally use, but depending on the application, I also have these other RAD’s as well. 
Unfortunately it’s been pretty slow a round here lately, so they aren’t getting used nearly as much as I would like them to.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

'Course, if you _really_ want to have fun at work: :laughing:


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## KayJay (Jan 20, 2008)

480sparky said:


> 'Course, if you _really_ want to have fun at work: :laughing:


I think that may give a “hole” new meaning to the term...STUD PUNCH !!

 :laughing: :thumbsup:


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## twintask (Jun 6, 2007)

Thanks everyone for the quick replies, keep'em coming. It seems that the Milwaukee right angle, and Milwaukee 1/2in Magnum are favorites among most of you guys. That extension attachment looks awesome with the V18 Milwaukee RAD. :thumbsup:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

KayJay said:


> I think that may give a “hole” new meaning to the term...STUD PUNCH !!
> 
> :laughing: :thumbsup:


We'll need to learn the meaning of the phrases like "Exit Wound" and "Collateral Damage" as well! :laughing:


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## Idaho Abe (Nov 28, 2007)

*Holes*

I like Sparky's idea. I use what ever the apprentice likes to use.


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

That Milwaulkee extension sucks! Check out these extensions www.priceandrutzebeck.com/index.html, they are much better!:thumbsup:


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## twintask (Jun 6, 2007)

BIGRED, is that extension compatible with most types of drills and how is it attached?


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

twintask said:


> BIGRED, is that extension compatible with most types of drills and how is it attached?


It's chucked in with a clamp on brace to the drill body, which looks like a joke for homeowners that don't want a professional tool like the Milwaukee. I have seen the Milw's in use since I was a kid (long time ago) and other than hooking insulation blowing through a stud, never seen anything bad about them.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

480sparky said:


> We'll need to learn the meaning of the phrases like "Exit Wound" and "Collateral Damage" as well! :laughing:


 
Exit wound: the last part of the body to try and grab on to the bullet.

Collateral Damage: often being sprayed by debris when shooting a .50 in an urban environment

being covered in "wet" debris when your muzzle is too close to an enemy

sometimes caused by follow through when you troops are located behind or too close too said enemy targets


Shooting .50 is getting to expensive for me at @$3.00 per round surplus


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## HighWirey (Sep 17, 2007)

480sparky said:


> 'Course, if you _really_ want to have fun at work: :laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

HighWirey said:


> 480sparky said:
> 
> 
> > 'Course, if you _really_ want to have fun at work: :laughing:
> ...


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

Twin, I have my P&R extension,:thumbsup: mounted on a Milwuakee 1610-1, 1/2 drill. Random, what would a homeowner want with either of them? I have used both and the P&R is much better, the Milwuakee's shaft is too big. The P&R also comes in different lengths.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

BIGRED said:


> Twin, I have my P&R extension,:thumbsup: mounted on a Milwuakee 1610-1, 1/2 drill. Random, what would a homeowner want with either of them? I have used both and the P&R is much better, the Milwuakee's shaft is too big. The P&R also comes in different lengths.


It just seems any of those generic type power tool accesories are not very heavy duty. From the picture that mount looks akward. I have never used anything but the Milwaukee and it always got the job done fine. That little right angle attachment that have on tha tlink looks like a toy as well. Some things seem great until you use better. I was working on an MRI job today with another contractor. He was using 18v Ryobi tools (drill and recip) at one point I couldn't take the noise any longer and handed him my DeWalt 18v recip. , he gave it back to me at lunch and said he never knew a battery tool could perform so well.


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

I've had my P&R for about 12yrs. and it still works fine, granted I do not use it every day. I worked for an EC, doing houses and used them every day and they held up pretty good.:thumbsup:


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## twintask (Jun 6, 2007)

BIGRED, how much is one of those P&R extensions?


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

I think I paid about $125.00, 12yrs. ago. I would call P&R and ask them. I think it was a great investment. The other good thing is, that it:thumbsup: can be put on and off your drill real quick, I do not remember if you can do that with the Milwuakee.


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

I think I paid about $125.00, 12yrs. ago. I would call P&R and ask them. I think it was a great investment. The other good thing is, that it:thumbsup: can be put on and off your drill real quick, I do not remember if you can do that with the Milwuakee.


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## twintask (Jun 6, 2007)

BIGRED, thanks for the info, I will check them out and do a little comparison with the Milwaukee and Makita extensions.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

BIGRED said:


> I think I paid about $125.00, 12yrs. ago. I would call P&R and ask them. I think it was a great investment. The other good thing is, that it:thumbsup: can be put on and off your drill real quick, I do not remember if you can do that with the Milwuakee.


The Milwaukee functions the same as the RAD attachment with that socket type connector after the chuck is removed (not really quick).


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