# Not Getting 120 volts



## EagleEyeElectric (Jan 28, 2014)

I ran two 20 amp circuits in 3/4 conduit to a 1900 box from there i added additional EMT with bends and one LB for easier pulling. Now these circuits are for 2 separate duplex outlets. I test for power i get 120 on 1 hot and about 35volts on another leg. there is a splice in the 1900 and i have 120 on both legs coming from the panel so i know its not a breaker issue the problem is from the 1900 to the outlet. 

any ideas!!

thank u


----------



## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

From hot to what?

L1->N
L2->N
L1->G
L2->G
L1-L2

?


----------



## EagleEyeElectric (Jan 28, 2014)

From hot to neutral and hot to ground I'm getting 35 volts I'm sharing the same neutral between both outlets


----------



## EagleEyeElectric (Jan 28, 2014)

L1 to ground n neutral I'm getting 120v
L2 I'm getting 35v between ground n neutral

I'm sharing the same neutral between L1 n l2


----------



## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

EagleEyeElectric said:


> L1 to ground n neutral I'm getting 120v
> L2 I'm getting 35v between ground n neutral
> 
> I'm sharing the same neutral between L1 n l2



Are you sure your splices are good?


----------



## ablyss (Feb 8, 2014)

Hi EagleEye, 

Sounds like your L2 is damaged somewhere on the line. The neutral and ground are obviously good as L1 is able to read 120 volts. You should have taken apart the splice and tested L2 to determine where the damage conductor lies.

A secondary conductor would be easy to pull as 3/4 conduit allows you plenty of wiggle room unless you ran romex, which you should not have. Romex is not allowed in any conduit with the exception of small whips, e.g, disconnect to motor like a disposal or flex to a furnace.

Thanks


----------



## oldschool (Aug 2, 2008)

if you were able to install this, you can surely troubleshoot it

pipe with j boxes?? break your splices apart and check


----------



## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

As you are sharing neutrals, is your breaker a 2 pole breaker? Have you measured voltage right at the breaker? If it is ok at the breaker (no loads connected) then you have a bad splice.. If it is not ok at the breaker, looks like you have a bad breaker...


----------



## wyosparky (Mar 31, 2009)

What are you getting for voltage L1 to L2 ? Any chance both hots originate from the same phase?


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

First thing you need to do is throw that digital tester you bought and get a solanoid tester like the red knopp type. That will take care of that 35 volts you are seeing, it is not real. 

Next open your j-box and use the knopp tester to see what your real voltage readings are at the splices.. Then remake the loose ones up.


----------



## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

ablyss said:


> Hi EagleEye,
> 
> Sounds like your L2 is damaged somewhere on the line. The neutral and ground are obviously good as L1 is able to read 120 volts. You should have taken apart the splice and tested L2 to determine where the damage conductor lies.
> 
> ...


You can use romex/NM in any conduit if it's not in a wet location. The code changed, and now conduit installed outside is considered a wet location, so no NM in outside conduit. But inside/dry location, you can use NM in conduit.
Not the best choice, but perfectly legal.


----------



## Auselect (Dec 2, 2011)

A Little Short said:


> You can use romex/NM in any conduit if it's not in a wet location. The code changed, and now conduit installed outside is considered a wet location, so no NM in outside conduit. But inside/dry location, you can use NM in conduit. Not the best choice, but perfectly legal.



Like this, couldn't be more then 2 months old


----------



## Hmacanada (Jan 16, 2014)

Are you testing voltage at the receptacle ?


----------



## Hmacanada (Jan 16, 2014)

If your testing at the rec. it could be bad rec . Had one that somebody give me back once with the tab broke out between the neutral screws.
Dumb mistake on my part. Just didn't notice putting it on.


----------



## ablyss (Feb 8, 2014)

A Little Short said:


> You can use romex/NM in any conduit if it's not in a wet location. The code changed, and now conduit installed outside is considered a wet location, so no NM in outside conduit. But inside/dry location, you can use NM in conduit.
> Not the best choice, but perfectly legal.


Protecting whips and other small romex cables supplying equipment is what I said and that is basically what the code is saying.

Thanks for pointing out the outside conduit rule. :thumbup:

I would just add romex is not listed in table 9 conductor fill charts. THHN != Romex.


----------



## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

Whats in that georgia water?


----------



## fistofbolts (Jan 25, 2014)

just add a doorbell transformer to the box with the 35v, reverse wire it and u should get 120v. should work juuuuuust fine...


----------



## ablyss (Feb 8, 2014)

Next72969 said:


> Whats in that georgia water?


Honey and poo poo :laughing:


----------



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

EagleEyeElectric said:


> I ran two 20 amp circuits in 3/4 conduit to a 1900 box from there i added additional EMT with bends and one LB for easier pulling. Now these circuits are for 2 separate duplex outlets. I test for power i get 120 on 1 hot and about 35volts on another leg. there is a splice in the 1900 and i have 120 on both legs coming from the panel so i know its not a breaker issue the problem is from the 1900 to the outlet.
> 
> any ideas!!
> 
> thank u


Ok so, what color wire did you use?
Did you change colors ?


----------



## Code4 (Feb 28, 2013)

EagleEyeElectric said:


> I ran two 20 amp circuits in 3/4 conduit to a 1900 box from there i added additional EMT with bends and one LB for easier pulling. Now these circuits are for 2 separate duplex outlets. I test for power i get 120 on 1 hot and about 35volts on another leg. there is a splice in the 1900 and i have 120 on both legs coming from the panel so i know its not a breaker issue the problem is from the 1900 to the outlet. any ideas!! thank u


If you can't find the problem then you have failed as an electrician. Let us know what it was


----------



## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

We may be getting trolled. At least two odd OP's with crazy voltage readings and not online to answer our "more info" questions.:thumbup:


----------



## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

3xdad said:


> We may be getting trolled. At least two odd OP's with crazy voltage readings and not online to answer our "more info" questions.:thumbup:


Doh just another "free estimate" for Charlie cheapskate the GC or the weekend warrior. We were duped again :laughing:


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

macmikeman said:


> First thing you need to do is throw that digital tester you bought and get a solanoid tester like the red knopp type. That will take care of that 35 volts you are seeing, it is not real.
> 
> Next open your j-box and use the knopp tester to see what your real voltage readings are at the splices.. Then remake the loose ones up.


Actually it is real. They don't make up numbers, just sensitive. He has potential their. And digital meters come in handy for this kind of instance, looking for induction or possibly a floating neutral.

And solanoid is spelled like this, solenoid.


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Chrisibew440 said:


> Actually it is real. They don't make up numbers, just sensitive. He has potential their. And digital meters come in handy for this kind of instance, looking for induction or possibly a floating neutral.
> 
> And solanoid is spelled like this, solenoid.


Not even. Try putting a 12 v lamp in the wiring and see it not light up. 

And yes many times I misspell stuff. And many times I do not give a rats behind about it. 

Besides real electricians only run 6" conduit.


----------



## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/caen/digital-multimeters/fluke-113.htm?PID=55990
or
http://www.myflukestore.com/p3716/fluke_117.php


Use the LoZ function and I'll bet you get close to 0 volts..


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

glen1971 said:


> http://www.fluke.com/fluke/caen/digital-multimeters/fluke-113.htm?PID=55990
> or
> http://www.myflukestore.com/p3716/fluke_117.php
> 
> ...


That doesn't help the T5 crowd a single bit.


----------



## adamv7010 (Mar 21, 2011)

IBTL

Eagle eye...you likely have a bad joint somewhere....

Looking at your other posts it seems to be common with you. 




sent while driving recklessly


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

macmikeman said:


> Not even. Try putting a 12 v lamp in the wiring and see it not light up.
> 
> And yes many times I misspell stuff. And many times I do not give a rats behind about it.
> 
> Besides real electricians only run 6" conduit.


You seem to be quite the electrician, I did not know about the six inch conduit thing. Wow!!! Can I have your signature?!?!?

And real is spelled like this, reel.


----------



## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Chrisibew440 said:


> You seem to be quite the electrician, I did not know about the six inch conduit thing. Wow!!! Can I have your signature?!?!?
> 
> And real is spelled like this, reel.


re·al1
ˈrē(ə)l/
adjective
1.
actually existing as a thing or occurring in fact; not imagined or supposed.
"Julius Caesar was a real person"
synonyms:	actual, nonfictional, factual, real-life; More
antonyms:	imaginary
used to emphasize the significance or seriousness of a situation or circumstance.
"there is a real danger of civil war"
PHILOSOPHY
relating to something as it is, not merely as it may be described or distinguished.
2.
(of a substance or thing) not imitation or artificial; genuine.
"the earring was presumably real gold"
synonyms:	genuine, authentic, bona fide;

reel
rēl/
noun
1.
a cylinder on which film, wire, thread, or other flexible materials can be wound.
2.
a lively Scottish or Irish folk dance.
verb
1.
wind a line onto a reel by turning the reel.
2.
lose one's balance and stagger or lurch violently.
"he punched Connolly in the ear, sending him reeling"
synonyms:	stagger, lurch, sway, rock, stumble, totter, wobble, falter More


----------



## fistofbolts (Jan 25, 2014)

macmikeman said:


> Besides real electricians only run 6" conduit.


dont the same basic principles to conduit bending apply to all sizes? yeah I get how you use the machine, have to have the right measurements etc. but is bigger really that much harder?


----------



## T Healy (Aug 27, 2011)

fistofbolts said:


> dont the same basic principles to conduit bending apply to all sizes? yeah I get how you use the machine, have to have the right measurements etc. but is bigger really that much harder?


 It sure weighs more


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

fistofbolts said:


> dont the same basic principles to conduit bending apply to all sizes? yeah I get how you use the machine, have to have the right measurements etc. but is bigger really that much harder?



...Well........ I guess both you and Crisibewsomenumbers are going to have to hang around the forum a year or two longer to understand the deep meaning in that reply I made......


----------



## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

fistofbolts said:


> dont the same basic principles to conduit bending apply to all sizes? yeah I get how you use the machine, have to have the right measurements etc. but is bigger really that much harder?


 No, but it impresses the hell outta some people.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

backstay said:


> re·al1
> ˈrē(ə)l/
> adjective
> 1.
> ...


I was trying to piss him off.


----------



## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> That doesn't help the T5 crowd a single bit.


I wasn't replying to them.. I was replying on which tool to use to verify if there are stray voltages that are induced by using a low impedance meter, which Chris figured they might be..


----------

