# How to set a 30ft pole?



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I went to look at a pole that got knocked over by a truck. It was a 6x6 aluminum 30ft. What are you guys using to raise them? I may farm this out if its not a piece of equipment that I can rent. I've never set poles this big.


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## johnnyontheside (Aug 30, 2010)

You could use a lull (4x4 fork lift )


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

I use one like this


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Think I'd feel safer using the Lull. Then again, I've never done it.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Do you have a pickup?


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Sprinter.


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## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

I have used bucket trucks, and a lift exactly like the one MR rewire shows in his post. Not saying that it is the safest, but it definitely works. 

How I did it, Wire new light pole with head and conductors down pole. Snake a 3/4" or larger rope down the inside of the pole. 

Bring said rope out the handhold and tie on a bender handle, this will stop the rope from slipping back into the pole.

Then, with the top of the pole at the base it is to be mounted to, tie the rope onto the basket/bucket so that when fully raised, the heads will not strike the boom. Have helper hold the base from scraping the ground while raising the pole fully. Make sure you keep out from underneath the pole while it is raised. 

Then slowly guide the pole onto prepped bolts on base. Lower very slowly, you could ding the threads, or take your buddy's finger off. 

Once the nuts are on and at least mostly tightened, lower the boom slightly, and remove the bender handle and whatever knot you used to tie it on. Then just raise the boom, the rope will evacuate the pole fairly easily.
Once the rope is off the bucket, go up and install the pole cap.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

How likely will I be able to get a matching bolt pattern?


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

If the base is the same demensions the bolts should work


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

nrp3 said:


> I went to look at a pole that got knocked over by a truck. It was a 6x6 aluminum 30ft. What are you guys using to raise them? I may farm this out if its not a piece of equipment that I can rent. I've never set poles this big.


A template for the bolt pattern can be made or comes with the pole sometimes. After the concrete cures, wire the fixture and leave an amount of wire to join at the bottom. Use a flexible choker and a rope...tied to it, and secure close to the top of the fixture. Lift the pole and then slowly lower to the install place keeping the wires safe. After installing the nuts pull on the rope and the choker should come down.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Setting light poles isn't hard. Just have a piece of equipment that can handle the lift and weight. High wind makes it harder. Use lift straps. Half hitch around the top. Put a hook on the bottom(factory one, might have to use a clevis). Put the hook through the hand hole. Have the pole prewired. Be careful.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

You don't want to rent equipment and you don't want to muscle it up with a lift. :jester:


Call out a crane for under $100 :thumbup:












> How likely will I be able to get a matching bolt pattern?


Do you have a measuring tape? 

The most common way to measure is the* bolt circle*. The standards I've seen here range from 8" to 10". That is on 4" poles so yours will obviously be bigger.

*Bolt circle* = diagonal measurement between opposite bolts.

And, unless the fixture arm is securely thru bolted, pick it by the hand hole.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

I d measure the bolt pattern THEN call the lighting sales guy/gal.


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

I'd never do a lift with anything,cars ect.,close enough where there is a possibile f.u.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

nrp3 said:


> I went to look at a pole that got knocked over by a truck. It was a 6x6 aluminum 30ft. What are you guys using to raise them? I may farm this out if its not a piece of equipment that I can rent. I've never set poles this big.



If you were someplace close I'd lift it for cheap.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

220/221 said:


> Call out a crane for under $100 :thumbup:



Nobody rents a crane in this neck of the woods for 100 or less. Not with the insurance rates and the rent that we have to pay around here.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

I do get involved with that kind of thing a bit.











I bought this machine off of one of my first customers. Well I tore up a big bill in trade for it










Handy machines, they'll go anywhere with the 4 wheel drive 4 wheel steer.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

nrp3 said:


> I went to look at a pole that got knocked over by a truck. It was a 6x6 aluminum 30ft. What are you guys using to raise them? I may farm this out if its not a piece of equipment that I can rent. I've never set poles this big.


Well i see alot of input but first off you never use a high reach to set a light pole its not made for that and its unsafe not made to lift anything but a worker in the basket period .

Second never have i seen rigging like the photo inside the access cover on a pole used.

What a waste of time to use that method sorry but ive set lots of lite poles any company that sells poles shows you the rigging needed. totally unsafe 

You can used a lull we use a pole truck or a derick truck like the power company has but a lull is ok.

We dont like a lull its time wasted and you can damage a nice paint job with the wrong operator .

You simply use a nylon choker just slip it around the pole about mid way or 3/4 from the bottom of the lite pole .
Slip it into the factory eye around the pole so when your done setting the pole she will drop down the pole you dont need to go back up the pole to release it she drops once pressure is off .

We also tie a rope to the choker to help it if needed they get tight sometimes but she will drop .

With fixture head installed and wired on the ground pick it up if its balanced head end will come up first lift it put a tag line on the bottom so you can move it towards the concrete base .

Line up the bolts by spinning it set it down easy on the first set of bolts make sure you have leveled the bolts on the bottom before you lift the pole up and put your washers on top of them.

Install washers and top nuts check level done .

Use the equipment design for the job !

Ive set hundreds of poles in my time 30 to 60 foot we use a pole truck but if you dont have one be safe .


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

piperunner said:


> Well i see alot of input but first off you never use a high reach to set a light pole its not made for that and its unsafe not made to lift anything but a worker in the basket period .
> 
> Second never have i seen rigging like the photo inside the access cover on a pole used.
> 
> ...


If one of your anchors is a little higher that the rest, it lines up easier. You level it with the nuts anyway. If the higher bolt/anchor happens to be on a corner that hangs a little low when you rig it you can just about drop it right on the studs with the forklift/crane whatever.

Oh and that manlift thing I totally agree. And rigging into that handhole I don't like at all. what keeps that flat hook from falling out? You know like when Murphy shows up.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

joethemechanic said:


> If one of your anchors is a little higher that the rest, it lines up easier. You level it with the nuts anyway. If the higher bolt/anchor happens to be on a corner that hangs a little low when you rig it you can just about drop it right on the studs with the forklift/crane whatever.



Well i guess if your setting one or two poles thats fine but try and make money on labor hours with a few hundred lite poles on site do it once get it level so you dont have to re level extra work . We have never had to have one bolt higher to set a pole most of the time there at the required stub up off the base for the cap or bottom cover no cutting or playing around .

If you use a temp plate on the bolt pattern its easy one time no issues .

The factory gives you that just ask .


That rigging is a unbalance thing and a issue out of control just waiting for a wind to blow it they must also have it tied up on top what a waste of rope .The top could flip if the top rope or what ever there using broke its just not the way to go .

Sorry just could not keep my mouth shut on this !!


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I've driven Lulls before, though its been a few years. If they choose to go with a steel pole, going to have to farm it out, over 500lbs. The aluminum one was light enough to move it around the parking lot with two guys last night. I'll go down today a put a pvc box on top of the conduit temporarily so we can liven up the rest of the poles and do some measuring.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Just have evrything ready and rent a crane and operator. We set three 25' ploes the other day in maybe 45 minutes. $200 for the crane. well worth it IMO


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

sbrn33 said:


> Just have evrything ready and rent a crane and operator. We set three 25' ploes the other day in maybe 45 minutes. $200 for the crane. well worth it IMO


Yeah but you aren't going to rent a crane here in the northeast for 200 bucks. Just for starters, most outfits charge a minimum of 4 hours.


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## mdfriday (May 14, 2007)

Mr Rewire said:


> I use one like this



I was informed that is against OSHA rules....i may be incorrectly informed though....


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

In the end I put a 12x12x6 pvc box on top of the pole base, put the wires together and turned the power on again. Then I called a outfit with a bucket truck and farmed it out.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

> Second never have i seen rigging like the photo inside the access cover on a pole used.


Well, now you have. Maybe you should stick to rinning pipe 



> What a waste of time to use that method sorry but ive set lots of lite poles any company that sells poles shows you the rigging needed. totally unsafe


Waste of time? Unsafe? 

The hook is attached to a single strap which does a hitch thing about 7/8 of the way up the pole then continues to a few feet above the pole where it clips on the crane hook thing. It takes about 20 seconds to install it and 10 seconds to remove it. It's brilliant.



> That rigging is a unbalance thing and a issue out of control just waiting for a wind to blow it *they must also have it tied up on top* what a waste of rope .The top could flip if the top rope or what ever there using broke its just not the way to go .


Did you think that we just hook it on the hand hole and magically balance a 20/30' pole :jester:. A simple hitch or half hitch (or whatever it's called ) on a single strap stabilizes the pole toward the top and the weight is carried by the hand hole.



> Sorry just could not keep my mouth shut on this !!


 
Maybe next time, huh :laughing:


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

A crane is one of the easiest ways, I pick that over a skytrack whenever terrain allows for it.

Defiantly don't go and do anything stupid with a personnel lift. Very few are designed to handle material. 



220/221 said:


> Well, now you have. Maybe you should stick to rinning pipe


He just thinks everyone should be doing things his way  :laughing:


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

220/221 said:


> Well, now you have. Maybe you should stick to rinning pipe
> 
> 
> Waste of time? Unsafe?
> ...


Well we do run pipe but weve set lots of poles on our projects and thats not the way to set them sorry but your rigging looks like you need a class in safety plus lots of help .:laughing::laughing:

Plus lots of paint to touch up the poles .


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## pjg (Nov 11, 2008)

220/221 said:


> You don't want to rent equipment and you don't want to muscle it up with a lift. :jester:
> 
> 
> Call out a crane for under $100 :thumbup:
> ...


thats the way we've set them for 20+ years. Works great!


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

piperunner said:


> your rigging looks like you need a class in safety plus lots of help .:laughing::laughing:
> 
> .


Instead of just saying it's wrong, tell me WHY it's wrong and show me a better way. You are not posting from Zuccotti park are you?

How do you pick up poles?



> Plus lots of paint to touch up the poles


Not a drop. Thats what the taped on packing material is for.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

That hook set up looks funky. Is it two pieces with a clevis and tape or?


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

The hook is a simple squared J shape with a clevis attached. 

The tape is just holding some packing material in place to avoid scuffing the poles.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

That fabricated hook is in a bit of a "tip loading" situation. That inch or so it is away from the pole is a cantilever and it is increasing the bending moment at the 90 right below the gusset/padeye. Because the gusset ends right before the 90 you create an "abrupt change in section" right near the 90. The general area around the 90 also happens to be in the highest moment.


Abrupt change in section near an area of high moment is a structural no no.

Not to mention that 90 also looks like it was struck on a brake. It's loaded with internal stresses.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

I do like the picking the thing by the handhole though. I always try to grab stuff real close to whatever mounts it when it is in use. It keeps all the stresses close to what they were designed at. And all the stresses going in the direction that was in the design


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

220/221 said:


> Instead of just saying it's wrong, tell me WHY it's wrong and show me a better way. You are not posting from Zuccotti park are you?
> 
> How do you pick up poles?
> 
> ...




Well when we get our factory paper work with fixtures theres a rigging section this shows us how to pick it per the factory and in 35 plus years its a choker around the mid section when you pick it the nylon choker which must be rated for 4 times the weight of the pole she slides up towards the fixture head but never makes it to the fixture head just slides up the pole a few feet as you pick it choker tightens up and you use a tag line around the bottom to walk it .
We also use a tag line on the choker because it gets real tight during a pick you just pull the tag line and she drops down after you release .

This way you have total control of swing its close to the ground less force or weight during moving from place to place .

Basically you have better control less danger of a miss hap with weight transfer during moving of the pole less stress on crane or lull better balance of all weight moving .

If you set lots of lite poles its money in the bank on a project when you have it set on the base you just release the choker it basically drops down the pole .

Now by example not to get off the subject the best part is you might be setting a concrete pre -cast lite pole now if you do it my way you can level it your way would be harder and top heavy more work doing what you dont need to do .

We set telephone poles lite poles metal or pre cast up to 75 foot and we have the trucks to do this not saying a lull is bad but you work with what your company gives you i understand that .

Does your company read the factory instructions that they give you it gives the base layout the bolt pattern the weight and rigging and picking points like i said we never see it done as you show ever .

So good luck were just trying to make you safe and aware !










But i just run pipe so what do i know good point we kinda do a few other things sometimes !


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> A crane is one of the easiest ways, I pick that over a skytrack whenever terrain allows for it.
> 
> Defiantly don't go and do anything stupid with a personnel lift. Very few are designed to handle material.
> 
> ...


Well from what i see on this forum you need help more then you will ever know .:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

You are telling me that the choker tightens up on the pole enough to lift it?

Yeah....I don't see that happening. Show me a picture so I can learn something new.


You don't need to be concerned with my welfare. It's generally my body under the pole and it's always my money on the line if something happens. I've got it covered.



And..... I have set close to a thousand poles but have *never* seen rigging instructions sent with poles. They supply the poles, fixtures, bolts and templates. They figure the installation is my job.





> That fabricated hook is in a bit of a "tip loading" situation. That inch or so it is away from the pole is a cantilever and it is increasing the bending moment at the 90 right below the gusset/padeye. Because the gusset ends right before the 90 you create an "abrupt change in section" right near the 90. The general area around the 90 also happens to be in the highest moment


*Anything* can fail. We are talking about a 200 pound lift here. That's less than what I weigh.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

The lift strap takes part of the weight at the half hitch also. I don't know that i'd want to pick a monster pole with that metal hook but it's probably fine. Would prefer a load rated hook myself but sometimes you run what you brung.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

220, you must have another attachment near the top of that pole, right? The hook just supports the majority of the weight?

-John


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Big John said:


> 220, you must have another attachment near the top of that pole, right? The hook just supports the majority of the weight?
> 
> -John


Pretty sure he's half hitched near the top


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

nitro71 said:


> Pretty sure he's half hitched near the top


 That's what I'm thinking, so even if the hook failed, there's some support. I really don't see a problem.

-John


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Big John said:


> That's what I'm thinking, so even if the hook failed, there's some support. I really don't see a problem.
> 
> -John


That hitch will slide without the hook. Probably come loose to. The hook is critical to keeping tension on the hitch.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

nitro71 said:


> ...The hook is critical....


 I agree, and I wouldn't pick it without the hook, but folks are talking like that setup is a recipe for an accident, and I just don't see it. For what he's lifting, it looks sound.

-John


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Big John said:


> I agree, and I wouldn't pick it without the hook, but folks are talking like that setup is a recipe for an accident, and I just don't see it. For what he's lifting, it looks sound.
> 
> -John


I agree with you on that one. Looks safer than some of the things I've had to use with the numb nuts I've worked with.


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

When you need to change a ballast on a shoe box pole,What is your method? Work in air, take off light,take pole down?


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Currently, climb ladder and work in air, that is if I can reach it with my ladder.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

nitro71 said:


> That hitch will slide without the hook. Probably come loose to. The hook is critical to keeping tension on the hitch.


 
This^

The weight is spread between the hook and half hitch but, without tension, the half hitch will lose it's grip. I bet the hook carries less than half the load.



> Currently, climb ladder and work in air, that is if I can reach it with my ladder.


 
One of our clients had a maintenance guy who got permenantly disabled when the pole fell over while he had an extension ladder leaning on it. It had a rusty base under the powder coat.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

220/221 said:


> You are telling me that the choker tightens up on the pole enough to lift it?
> 
> Yeah....I don't see that happening. Show me a picture so I can learn something new.
> 
> ...


Well we do it and with one choker connection around the pole to the hook on the pole truck .

This prevents swing and it can not drop or kick out thats what were trying to get you to understand .

If its a 200 lb pole you dont need a crane you can pick that up by hand .

Yes will do will put up a photo or video so you can see it done the easy way .

If you dont get rigging instructions with your fixtures its because your company doesnt ask for it but when you do a project it must be in the submit package .

When we lift the fixture head or heads are installed single double or triple its and wiring is done 100 %.

What could happen is when you set it down on the bolts the invention on your hand hole could come lose and your choker can slip down kicking out the base meaning hitting something and if your equipment is a lull or a bucket you could be tipping it over . This is not going to happen with a 200 lb pole thats nothing .

Iam thinking a larger install like 600lbs or more if you do it right now you will be set in the future my friend .

First ill put up a photo for you then ill post a submit sheet for you also . 

:no:


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

> Well we do it and with one choker connection around the pole to the hook on the pole truck


 

Can you explain what a choker is? I'm not understanding how a strap could grip the pole without something to stop ???



> This prevents swing and it can not drop or kick out thats what were trying to get you to understand .


Using my method, the pole *cannot* kick out and all poles will tend to swing.




> If its a 200 lb pole you dont need a crane you can pick that up by hand


.

I _can_ pick one up but, use your head man, it's 20-30 feet tall so it's going to be a horizontal lift.



> Yes will do will put up a photo or video so you can see it done the easy way .


Holding.my.breath.



> If you dont get rigging instructions with your fixtures its because your company doesnt ask for it but when you do a project it must be in the submit package .


You need to learn that eveyone else's world isn't like yours. I don't even know what a submit package is. Your system may be more complex than mine three step process. My client wants lights. I order the lights and install them. Simple.




> When we lift the fixture head or heads are installed single double or triple its and wiring is done 100 %.


At least you are doing someting right :thumbup:





> What could happen is when you set it down on the bolts *the invention on your hand hole could come lose *and your choker can slip down kicking out the base meaning hitting something and if your equipment is a lull or a bucket you could be tipping it over . This is not going to happen with a 200 lb pole thats nothing


 
Lack of basic writing skills aside, anything can break. You could have a failure on one of your bosses big ass lift trucks while setting a tiny 12' pole and kill somebody.

My hook can not come loose any more than the crane cable or strap could snap. 





> Iam thinking a larger install like 600lbs or more if you do it right now you will be set in the future my friend .


I know I would do a 600# lift usng the same method. Would I use a beefier hook? Maybe. I'll let you know when I have to set a 600# pole.



> First ill put up a photo for you then ill post a submit sheet for you also .


 
Can.hardly wait.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

joethemechanic said:


> Nobody rents a crane in this neck of the woods for 100 or less. Not with the insurance rates and the rent that we have to pay around here.


cheapest I have found in Atlanta is $105 an hour with a 90 min min., so that's $210 for 90 min.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

nrp3 said:


> How likely will I be able to get a matching bolt pattern?


Measuring tape? :laughing:

The "bolt circle" measurement is center to center on opposing bolts

Have a crane come out. Out here, it's around $100. Not worth trying to rent something.



BASTARD!! Another old thread brought to life via spam post. 

The Poledancer looks stupid and dangerous to me. Stupid stripper innuendo name too.


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## Knightryder12 (Apr 4, 2013)

220/221 said:


> You don't want to rent equipment and you don't want to muscle it up with a lift. :jester:
> 
> 
> Call out a crane for under $100 :thumbup:
> ...


This is the way I have set poles. That hook in the handhole works like a charm. I have set 100's of poles with this set set up. Glad to see someone else take care as to not scuff the pole by putting tape on the hook and clevis.


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## di11igaf (Jan 1, 2012)

Here's the safest way I've found to wire/service the lights once they're up. I'm not gonna show how we rig them cause its waay too dangerous.


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## theJcK (Aug 7, 2013)

with this thingy.. haha.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Too bad this thread is 3 years old. I was about to offer a rental for our bucket truck. :laughing:


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