# HOLE PRO vs DUST BOWL?



## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

Linky no worky.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I have been using this product for 3 years now: https://www.amazon.com/Morris-Produ...w_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=HK8S0QCPGDSFEGFHQZS4

I am not sure how it compares to the Rackatiers model (which you can also buy on Amazon for a few bucks more).

I don't care for the hole cutter style thing. I prefer to just use a grit holesaw sized to fit. I have a 4 3/8" holesaw made for 4" recessed lights that is also perfect for drilling out ceilings for 4" round boxes and fan boxes. I use that with the dustbowl all the time. I just dump the contents out into a 5 gallon garbage bucket and then move on to the next hole, 100% dust free.


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

DRILLERS DUST BOWL (link fixed)


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

and while I'm at it, an older thread had several people saying they run their hole saws in reverse on drywall. Why is that?


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

I've only seen the Dust Bowl used by a Southern Californian electrician on an ancient This Old House video clip.

He LOVED it.

It's LIGHT... and pretty much idiot proof.

I have the heavier gizmo -- there are clones out -- the style has been on the market for years.

It's proved to be less impressive in use.

I can't recommend it.

IMHO -- stay away from adjustable hole cutters -- just stay away.

Only use size specific hole saws. They create far less dust -- their kerfs are tight.

Since you're contemplating light fixture swap-outs I must bring this video to your attention. *

This fellow scarcely ever sands his work.*


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

mikewillnot said:


> and while I'm at it, an older thread had several people saying they run their hole saws in reverse on drywall. Why is that?


Drywall will dull the teeth on hole saws, running in reverse may help stop that. But as I mentioned, use a grit holesaw instead and you won't have to worry.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

I've had the dust bowl for at least 10 years. Love it. Actually had 2. 

Only complaint was that the metal "grommet" where the hole saw arbor passes through separated from the plastic of the bowl on my first one.


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

Vs cardboard box Vs basketball.


For me cardboard box wins. If I wanted something more permanent I I'd use the basketball. For a few bucks I can get one from Goodwill and I'd have two...

Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

mikewillnot said:


> and while I'm at it, an older thread had several people saying they run their hole saws in reverse on drywall. Why is that?


It places a much less aggressive cutting surface against the sheetrock, throwing much less particulate into the air. Like the difference in what is removed and tossed by a 32 tooth metal cutting blade and a 6 tooth wood blade, smaller bites.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Flyingsod said:


> Vs cardboard box Vs basketball.
> 
> 
> For me cardboard box wins. If I wanted something more permanent I I'd use the basketball. For a few bucks I can get one from Goodwill and I'd have two...
> ...


"Soccer / volleyballs" the white rubber materials are less 'tacky' and don't grab the surface with as much friction and work better overall.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Anybody use the adjustable hole cutters with the dust bowl? Not the cheap one they sell at HD, but the $150 one? I've found them to be junk. I'd like to switch to the dust bowl and hole saw method myself.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

MTW said:


> Anybody use the adjustable hole cutters with the dust bowl? Not the cheap one they sell at HD, but the $150 one? I've found them to be junk. I'd like to switch to the dust bowl and hole saw method myself.


While that concept works great on a hand powered gasket cutter once power is added for a drive the hazards and ineffectuality become problems.


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## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I have been using this product for 3 years now: https://www.amazon.com/Morris-Produ...w_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=HK8S0QCPGDSFEGFHQZS4
> 
> I am not sure how it compares to the Rackatiers model (which you can also buy on Amazon for a few bucks more).
> 
> I don't care for the hole cutter style thing. I prefer to just use a grit holesaw sized to fit. I have a 4 3/8" holesaw made for 4" recessed lights that is also perfect for drilling out ceilings for 4" round boxes and fan boxes. I use that with the dustbowl all the time. I just dump the contents out into a 5 gallon garbage bucket and then move on to the next hole, 100% dust free.


Have you used your grit hole saws in plaster cielings? How does that work?


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I picked up a Milwaukee one at HD for 29 or 39..... It's thick and adjustable by hand. I really like it. The cheapo stuff is trash imo and I don't want to spend Holepro money.....


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Flyingsod said:


> Vs cardboard box Vs basketball.
> 
> 
> For me cardboard box wins. If I wanted something more permanent I I'd use the basketball. For a few bucks I can get one from Goodwill and I'd have two...
> ...


 I would like to see how You use a cardboard box to catch every speck of flying dust like the dustball does.



WIsparky71 said:


> Have you used your grit hole saws in plaster cielings? How does that work?


Absolutely. Grit hole saws work great in plaster. Sometimes I will continue thru wood lath with the grit holesaw, but sometimes it smokes a lot so I will switch to a wood holesaw.


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## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I would like to see how You use a cardboard box to catch every speck of flying dust like the dustball does.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely. Grit hole saws work great in plaster. Sometimes I will continue thru wood lath with the grit holesaw, but sometimes it smokes a lot so I will switch to a wood holesaw.


I've been trying to talk the boss into getting one, he claims they don't work. We have a one tooth adjustable one, but that only works in 1/2 drywall. Plus you have to be careful it doesn't walk on you. So when we hit plaster we have to use a sawzall and burn up a couple blades. Plus make a ton of dust. For $40 I don't see how we can go wrong with a grit one.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drewsserviceco said:


> I've had the dust bowl for at least 10 years. Love it. Actually had 2.
> 
> Only complaint was that the metal "grommet" where the hole saw arbor passes through separated from the plastic of the bowl on my first one.


Yeah, that happens. The plastic one too. But you have to consider it a product that has a certain lifetime, like drill bits.

Honestly, a dust bowl makes the job so much easier and cleaner that it's worth it even if you had to buy a new one every 2-3 jobs. If you get 7 or 8 jobs out of one, that's all gravy. If you get 30+ like I have, it's awesome.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

WIsparky71 said:


> I've been trying to talk the boss into getting one, he claims they don't work. We have a one tooth adjustable one, but that only works in 1/2 drywall. Plus you have to be careful it doesn't walk on you. So when we hit plaster we have to use a sawzall and burn up a couple blades. Plus make a ton of dust. For $40 I don't see how we can go wrong with a grit one.


For 4" hihats and 4" round boxes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-4-in-Recessed-Light-Installation-Kit-49-56-0300/202327774

For 6"

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-3-8-in-Recessed-Light-Hole-Saw-49-56-0305/202327775


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

It just takes mindfulness. I don't have to do it very often so I can afford the time to pay close attention to what I'm doing. Roughing up the ceiling edges a bit makes a decent enough gasket as does a bit of tape where the hole saw arbor goes through. Box gaps all taped of course. Use the speed control function of the drill to not fling debris at 1600rpm. It's not that hard really. Like I said though if I wanted a perm solution I'd make something else. Either way though it's not worth C note. One less thing to keep in the van IS worth a C note and the tiny effort for me to make a dust catcher on the fly.

I used to have these cool stick-on plastic bags that did a phenomenal job, even in metal cabinets. I can't find them anymore though. They were cheap and took up almost no room to store.

It doesn't look like any of the gadgets would catch all the dust from wall work like a box and some electrical tape can. 

Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


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## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

Yeah, for our next re model we just might end up with a couple of those.....


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

HackWork said:


> I would like to see how You use a cardboard box to catch every speck of flying dust like the dustball does.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely. Grit hole saws work great in plaster. Sometimes I will continue thru wood lath with the grit holesaw, but sometimes it smokes a lot so I will switch to a wood holesaw.


My last post was a reply to you. I musta hit the wrong reply button. 

Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Flyingsod said:


> It just takes mindfulness. I don't have to do it very often so I can afford the time to pay close attention to what I'm doing. Roughing up the ceiling edges a bit makes a decent enough gasket as does a bit of tape where the hole saw arbor goes through. Box gaps all taped of course. Use the speed control function of the drill to not fling debris at 1600rpm. It's not that hard really. Like I said though if I wanted a perm solution I'd make something else. Either way though it's not worth C note. One less thing to keep in the van IS worth a C note and the tiny effort for me to make a dust catcher on the fly.
> 
> I used to have these cool stick-on plastic bags that did a phenomenal job, even in metal cabinets. I can't find them anymore though. They were cheap and took up almost no room to store.
> 
> ...


I just can't see that. A box will not catch all the dust. And making up a box costs WAY more in wasted time than just buying a $25 dustbowl like I linked to above. 

The dust bowl also works well when drilling walls, I use it all the time for wall sconces. A little bit of dust may slip out of the bottom when removing the dustbowl, but I always keep some paper (like an instruction manual) handy to put underneath it and catch it all.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I love my driller bowel , it gets the macmikeman seal of approval. The one I have now , the grommet is long gone and the center hole is worn to just tight around the entire chuck on my Makita drill. It still catches all the dust that way, and has been fine with the larger hole now for at least two or three years. I have to put in smoke detectors in all remodel jobs where we took out a permit. The usual one in each bedroom and the hallways so long as it is accessible from an attic . So that tool gets a lot of use and in conjunction with my exploding garbage cans which are always in the van, I have virtually zero to clean up afterwards.


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## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> I love my driller bowel , it gets the macmikeman seal of approval. The one I have now , the grommet is long gone and the center hole is worn to just tight around the entire chuck on my Makita drill. It still catches all the dust that way, and has been fine with the larger hole now for at least two or three years. I have to put in smoke detectors in all remodel jobs where we took out a permit. The usual one in each bedroom and the hallways so long as it is accessible from an attic . So that tool gets a lot of use and in conjunction with my exploding garbage cans which are always in the van, I have virtually zero to clean up afterwards.


I tore out the bushing on the rack a tiers on my second use fixed it with 2 reducing washers and a 1/2 in chase nipple been going for 10 plus years now


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

MTW said:


> Anybody use the adjustable hole cutters with the dust bowl? Not the cheap one they sell at HD, but the $150 one? I've found them to be junk. I'd like to switch to the dust bowl and hole saw method myself.


I have one-- I think $80 when I bought it and it works well. I like the adjustability of the bit but you have to get it right and you need to use the counter weights correctly. Back in those days it was hard to find a whole saw large enough for the big cans.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

HackWork said:


> Yeah, that happens. The plastic one too. But you have to consider it a product that has a certain lifetime, like drill bits.
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, a dust bowl makes the job so much easier and cleaner that it's worth it even if you had to buy a new one every 2-3 jobs. If you get 7 or 8 jobs out of one, that's all gravy. If you get 30+ like I have, it's awesome.



I was happy with the life of the dust bowl, had it for years and probably did a couple hundred holes. 

The dust bowl is nice because not only does it work as intended (catching all the dust) but It really doesn't mar the paint of a finished ceiling.


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## Jarp Habib (May 18, 2014)

mikewillnot said:


> and while I'm at it, an older thread had several people saying they run their hole saws in reverse on drywall. Why is that?


Great way to spin the holesaw back off the arbor and lose it down the inside of a wall. I've seen the argument that drywall dust dulls it. It's true, it does! Gums it up too. Don't use a brand new one, retire one that's been on metal cutting duty and get a new one for that. Drywall doesn't dull a bit anywhere NEAR as fast as steel does, and you don't see people trying to cut that backwards.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Jarp Habib said:


> Great way to spin the holesaw back off the arbor and lose it down the inside of a wall. I've seen the argument that drywall dust dulls it. It's true, it does! Gums it up too. Don't use a brand new one, retire one that's been on metal cutting duty and get a new one for that. Drywall doesn't dull a bit anywhere NEAR as fast as steel does, and you don't see people trying to cut that backwards.


You won't spin the holesaw off if you use a good arbor with the two tits that lock into the two holes on the holesaw.

As for metal dulling the holesaw faster than drywall, do you have anything to substantiate that?

Remember, you can drill a hundred holes in metal with a holesaw, but one hole in plaster will dull the teeth to the point that it's unusable. The gypsum in drywall is not unlike plaster.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> You won't spin the holesaw off if you use a good arbor with the two tits that lock into the two holes on the holesaw.
> 
> As for metal dulling the holesaw faster than drywall, do you have anything to substantiate that?
> 
> Remember, you can drill a hundred holes in metal with a holesaw, but one hole in plaster will dull the teeth to the point that it's unusable. The gypsum in drywall is not unlike plaster.


You are correct Sir, they are both cementitious compounds and very abrasive.


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## Jarp Habib (May 18, 2014)

HackWork said:


> Jarp Habib said:
> 
> 
> > Great way to spin the holesaw back off the arbor and lose it down the inside of a wall. I've seen the argument that drywall dust dulls it. It's true, it does! Gums it up too. Don't use a brand new one, retire one that's been on metal cutting duty and get a new one for that. Drywall doesn't dull a bit anywhere NEAR as fast as steel does, and you don't see people trying to cut that backwards.
> ...


I do use a good arbor. Lenox with the two tits mounted solidly to the sliding collar which locks in place via nut/O-ring. That nut can still backspin unless I'm willing to put a wrench on it and crush the O-ring or just spin the drill normally and it won't be biased to backspin loose.

How do you define unusable? I define it as rounded over & broken teeth, pretty much anything else you can work with fairly well. A hundred holes in regular box steel feels about right, and I tend to baby my holesaws. Predrill pilot holes, no wobbling the drill, oil when available. I retire them when they start throwing up blue chips before a box is half through, they're still plenty sharp enough for the occasional steel stud while drilling wall penetrations. I have no idea how a single hole in sheetrock or plaster is supposed to render it unusable. My retired holesaws (a mix of different brands) have thousands of sheetrock holes among em and all still sharp enough for stud work. I wouldn't use them on boxes or anything thicker but they are sharp enough to keep going in sheetrock for years. How do you define unusable?


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