# PVC Burial Depth



## swimmer (Mar 19, 2011)

My customer is installing paver tiles in his back yard.
I'm running PVC under these tiles for yard lights.'
What is the depth of my conduit trench?
I assume 18" unless paver tiles can somehow be construed to be 2" or 4" of concrete.

Thanks


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Feed it with a GFCI, then go down 12 inches.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

swimmer said:


> My customer is installing paver tiles in his back yard.
> I'm running PVC under these tiles for yard lights.'
> What is the depth of my conduit trench?
> I assume 18" unless paver tiles can somehow be construed to be 2" or 4" of concrete.
> ...



It would be up to your inspector. One of mine allows the pavers to be include in the depth.

If you're using a trencher, it is a moot point. Two more inches won't matter to the trencher!


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

From the notes to the depth table.





> Notes: 1. Cover is defined as the shortest distance in millimeters (inches) measured between a point on the top surface of any direct-buried conductor, cable, conduit, or other raceway and the top surface of finished grade, concrete, or similar cover.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

backstay said:


> Feed it with a GFCI, then go down 12 inches.


Using a GFCI to avoid digging an extra few inches is just asking for trouble...

Haven't you read enough posts here about GFCI troubles to know that avoiding using them should be top priority unless you want endless headaches..


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## highleg (May 11, 2013)

B4T said:


> Using a GFCI to avoid digging an extra few inches is just asking for trouble...
> 
> Haven't you read enough posts here about GFCI troubles to know that avoiding using them should be top priority unless you want endless headaches..


Are you thinking of AFCI's?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

highleg said:


> Are you thinking of AFCI's?


No... there have been plenty of problem threads here where guys used GFCI breakers and had problems with them tripping...


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## highleg (May 11, 2013)

B4T said:


> No... there have been plenty of problem threads here where guys used GFCI breakers and had problems with them tripping...


In my experience, GFCI's have gotten much better and haven't been a problem for a while. At first I was against having to GFCI protect even a fridge in the garage, but now I don't mind it because it's not a problem anymore.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> No... there have been plenty of problem threads here where guys used GFCI breakers and had problems with them tripping...


You are on drugs.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

BBQ said:


> You are on drugs.


Go back to sleep... your brain needs to catch up to your body..


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

how about under a building that has no floor just the finished grade


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> Go back to sleep... your brain needs to catch up to your body..


Fat and bloated?

Not sure that is good for my brain.




But the only problems GFCIs have are due to bad wiring or equipment, in other words installer or operator error. They are nothing like AFCIs.


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## swimmer (Mar 19, 2011)

highleg said:


> At first I was against having to GFCI protect even a fridge in the garage, but now I don't mind it because it's not a problem anymore.


I've had late model fridge trip a GFCI. I'm pretty sure it was the fault of the fridg but it only happened about 3 times a day and I didn't want to spend time investigating.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I have had to go back to a few jobs within the 1 yr warranty period to change out gfi receptacle outlets that have gone defective. Seems like happening more lately. I almost never used to have to do that, but this year at least three times I have.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> I have had to go back to a few jobs within the 1 yr warranty period to change out gfi receptacle outlets that have gone defective. Seems like happening more lately. I almost never used to have to do that, but this year at least three times I have.


 
you really shouldn't buy your gfci receptacles at Harbor Freight.

I don't care how many time Cletis tells you they're a good deal.


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## Deep Cover (Dec 8, 2012)

Use rigid...dig 6"


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

Deep Cover said:


> Use rigid...dig 6"


Thats what i do. Just did a gen and hottub like that.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Just get one of those home depot laborers and have him dig 2 feet, then lay your pvc. Wham, bam, thank you mam.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

It's time to retire the code book, and "do it right."

Trying for 'minimum depth' is a bad idea, because that only means the pipe will be later damaged by the gardener, the roto-tiller, ground settling, tree roots, etc.

As for the fool who suggested rigid at 6" ... might be 'legal,' but only if you love rust.

Here's the scoop:

PVC is great for direct burial. Quick, easy, rust proof. Only problems are that your pull string likes to burn through the pipe at bends, and it always gets broken where it exits the ground. 

So, you use rigid for the 'exit,' and the bends. Wrap the rigid in pipe-wrap tape, and you won't need to worry about rust, either. Rust seems to be the biggest problem 4-6" below grade.

Pavers MIGHT count as concrete (allowing you to run pipe directly under them), but what will you do when the pipe reaches the end of the pavers? At that point, the pipe will be suddenly required to be 18-14" down. There's also the issue where your elbow send the pipe up. You need at least a 12" trench to completely bury that sweep.


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