# Neutral problem



## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

So I just got a message from a friend saying that the neutral in her panel burnt. But it looks like the main neutral got burnt. She doesn't know much. I'm still trying to get more answers.heres a picture









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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

I guess she's going to have to turn some lights off in the grow room.

do you really think this will get fixed over the internet ?


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

appears to be a 100- 125 amp main lug panel
with neutral bar seperated from grounding/bonding bar.

Neutral looks like its AL while feeders look CU. If NEU is
AL , (I'm not certain it is) put some deoxe on it and tighten
it up. Or... if you can run a new CU neutral.

Check back at the main to make sure your neutral has a good
tight connection on a correctly UL listed lug. Use deoxe there also.

Being on the interweb , I can't help much more than that.

On another note , why is that neutral bar so close to the 
hot lugs?


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## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

Nope. Just looking to see what everyone thinks. There's nothing wrong with the neutral bar being so close to the hot lugs. There's a divider there. 

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## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

The legs look clearly look like copper so the neutral has to be copper.

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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

The way I look at the photo looks like you have #2 alum conductor on the main lug.

I can see it was overheated a bit so the most common curpit is thermal expandision and contraction that what happend it get loosen up over the time.

pull it out and clean it up good or make a copper pin to crimp on the alum conductor.

the copper when you have loose connection they will get very dark in color.

The alum will never change color at all when ya got loose connection.


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

They'll come loose quickly if the cable isn't forcefully pulled back and forth 
after the lug is tightened. Re-tighten after. Seems even more important 
with Al. 
P&L


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## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

Update. It's a 100 amp sub panel. The main conductors are all copper. Everything has been tighten down. Could it be a a back feed problem? 

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## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

For the life of me can't come up with anything right now until I get out there and checked grounds and amperage

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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

what makes you think that just because hots are cu the nuetral has to be cu?


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## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

True. I'll check tomorrow to see if it's actually copper as well as see if they're loose connections. P.s. she told me the hots and neutral are cu.

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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

it could be tinned cu but looks al to me


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

Looks like green heated copper to me. Either the wire is loose in the lug or the lug is loose on the bar. Either way, it's getting hot. Turn the power off, lift that conductor, check the lug, strip and re-terminate, torque properly.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

Chalr said:


> Nope. Just looking to see what everyone thinks. There's nothing wrong with the neutral bar being so close to the hot lugs. There's a divider there.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Was not inferring something was "wrong"..the connecting bar that 
joins right and left neutral bars is usually on the bottom of the panel 
and not up top where the lugs are. That looks abnormally close to
the main lugs.

Is there a chance this panel has been altered? I would look for that
possibility when you go there cause if it was , it's a liability issue and
that messes with the UL listing of the product.

I'm not sure...I could be completely wrong about this. I'm just sayin.


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

lighterup said:


> Was not inferring something was "wrong"..the connecting bar that
> joins right and left neutral bars is usually on the bottom of the panel
> and not up top where the lugs are. That looks abnormally close to
> the main lugs.
> ...


That is a common Square D, QO Panel. It is not altered.

OP, follow Rephase's advise.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

Well that explains it..I don't use those products...but don't you agree that 
lug is looking like its within an1/8 or 1/4 " of the neutral bar assembly?


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

lighterup said:


> Well that explains it..I don't use those products...but don't you agree that
> lug is looking like its within an1/8 or 1/4 " of the neutral bar assembly?



That picture is deceiving, SD is my panel of choice, when I have the choice.

That neutral bar is set deeper in the panel and the hot lugs are set out a bit so as to give good clearance between the wires.


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## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

Thanks for taking a look. I'll had out there shortly and let everyone know what I find out!


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

What condition is the neutral lug in? If the lug is discolored, it needs to be replaced. Also, what about the threads?


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

Chalr said:


> Everything has been tighten down. Could it be a a back feed problem?


 The problem is that "tight" doesn't mean "good."

You can have a termination that is tighter than hell but still very high resistance, and it will get very hot.

Follow the advice others have given you of stripping the conductor back to clean, bright metal. Burnish the mating surfaces in the lug, or replace it if damaged. Tighten to proper torque.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Big John said:


> The problem is that "tight" doesn't mean "good."
> 
> You can have a termination that is tighter than hell but still very high resistance, and it will get very hot.
> 
> Follow the advice others have given you of stripping the conductor back to clean, bright metal. Burnish the mating surfaces in the lug, or replace it if damaged. *Tighten to proper torque.*



fify......


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## Chalr (Dec 29, 2016)

Update: they were looser than a goose. All fixed. Hopefully. Everything was sized and properly wired. Tightened down.

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