# Conduit Bending



## Edrick (Jun 6, 2010)

Alright so I'm looking to work on some of my skills and as such I got my self a Klien 3/4" Conduit Bender. I'm looking for peoples suggestions, the dos and donts, and any other advice you have. As always pictures of conduit work you've done or links to it is always appreciated. (Preferably metallic conduit pictures).


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I don't know, man. I learned by getting a Benfield book, a bundle of 1/2" EMT, and having at it with a bunch of pretend bends around and against stuff in my kitchen, shed, garage, and wherever. 

That prospect sounds a lot more expensive nowadays. Not sure I'd have picked 3/4" to learn on, since you'll scrap it all. 

Learning how to bend pipe isn't really that hard, I should tell you. Learning how to bend pipe without looking like a juggling clown is the harder part. Doing it with finesse is the real trick you need to learn. I see so many guys that produce a pretty decent end product that look like dorks doing head-up bends and bends on top of wood blocks, etc. It takes a bit to do those and make it look technically easy. 

After you can bend well, and make it look easy, you'll likely still struggle with dog-legs for some time. Get a no-dog type level, and that will help a lot with that.


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## Edrick (Jun 6, 2010)

I'll look into getting that book. Acquiring the conduit isn't going to be an issue so your method will work for me. That's what I'm planning on doing is just grabbing a bunch of extra and experimenting with it. I've got plenty of projects around the house that I can use conduit for to practice on before using it on the job site. 

Mostly just looking for advice people have, formulas they've used, and things to avoid. Where you've gone and spent the last hour running conduit only to screw up on something small. Those types of mistakes you'd defiantly want to avoid on the job.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Edrick said:


> I'll look into getting that book. Acquiring the conduit isn't going to be an issue so your method will work for me. That's what I'm planning on doing is just grabbing a bunch of extra and experimenting with it. I've got plenty of projects around the house that I can use conduit for to practice on before using it on the job site.
> 
> Mostly just looking for advice people have, formulas they've used, and things to avoid. Where you've gone and spent the last hour running conduit only to screw up on something small. Those types of mistakes you'd defiantly want to avoid on the job.


Yeah, get the Benfield book. It's a common sense approach. If you like extra math, look for the link to the free e-book on conduit bending from Porcupine Press. That one will depress you sufficiently that you'll appreciate the Benfield book.

The Benfield bending book is sized small and printed on heavy coated paper, intended to be carried in the hip pocket of the newbie conduit bender. Heck, I still keep it on the truck for odd bends that might only be needed once in a blue moon.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

I had to do a white castle a few back, all emt so I bought a bundle of 1/2 inch and went to town on my basement a few weeks before just so I didnt look like an idiot.


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## voltz (Jun 2, 2010)

http://www.porcupinepress.com/index.html
on the left of the page, click 'conduit bending'


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## ichimo23 (Nov 30, 2009)

Learning how to bend pipe isn't really that hard, I should tell you. Learning how to bend pipe without looking like a juggling clown is the harder part. 


That's the main reason that I still can't bend anything besides 90s and offsets worth a squat. The old timer I work with bends masterpieces (with a cigarette dangling out of his mouth) and hands them up to me. Whenever I'm on my own I have to have the hacksaw up on the ladder with me (like a dumbass):laughing:


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

ichimo23 said:


> Learning how to bend pipe isn't really that hard, I should tell you. Learning how to bend pipe without looking like a juggling clown is the harder part.
> 
> 
> That's the main reason that I still can't bend anything besides 90s and offsets worth a squat. The old timer I work with bends masterpieces (with a cigarette dangling out of his mouth) and hands them up to me. Whenever I'm on my own I have to have the hacksaw up on the ladder with me (like a dumbass):laughing:


 Yea Im not the greatest pipe bender either but I know enough for now..I think its really impressive when someone can do the nice cocentric bends like its easy...


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

captkirk said:


> Yea Im not the greatest pipe bender either but I know enough for now..I think its really impressive when someone can do the nice cocentric bends like its easy...


In 2010, I don't think anyone does concentric bends. Maybe in 1950, but not in 2010. There's no compelling reason to do that. That's something you do one time to say you did it, and never again.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> In 2010, I don't think anyone does concentric bends. Maybe in 1950, but not in 2010. There's no compelling reason to do that. That's something you do one time to say you did it, and never again.


 Is the astetics the only benifit to it...?


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> Yeah, get the Benfield book. It's a common sense approach. If you like extra math, look for the link to the free e-book on conduit bending from Porcupine Press. That one will depress you sufficiently that you'll appreciate the Benfield book.
> 
> The Benfield bending book is sized small and printed on heavy coated paper, intended to be carried in the hip pocket of the newbie conduit bender. Heck, I still keep it on the truck for odd bends that might only be needed once in a blue moon.


 
Benfields technique is easy to learn. There used to be a VHS you could get with it, which if it's still available, it's prolly Blu-Ray now:whistling2::laughing:

If it's still available, spend a few more bucks and watch thee old timer do his thing. Read the story behind the man as well:thumbsup:


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

captkirk said:


> Is the astetics the only benifit to it...?


nope......


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

captkirk said:


> Is the astetics the only benifit to it...?


As far as I'm concerned. Although, there is a "make work" aspect to concentric bending, so some may consider that a benefit.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

76nemo said:


> Benfields technique is easy to learn. There used to be a VHS you could get with it, which if it's still available, it's prolly Blu-Ray now:whistling2::laughing:
> 
> If it's still available, spend a few more bucks and watch thee old timer do his thing. Read the story behind the man as well:thumbsup:


Yeah, it's on DVD now, though. I think they just upgraded from the filmstrip version. "BING", turn knob to next frame. :laughing:


http://www.benfielddirect.com/


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

Sorry, same ol' song and dance phone call

I have a halfer and a 3/4" hickey, if they're placed just right when you were a little off in the first place, I think they're worth keeping in the bottom of the bucket


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

76nemo said:


> Sorry, same ol' song and dance phone call
> 
> I have a halfer and a 3/4" hickey, if they're placed just right when you were a little off in the first place, I think they're worth keeping in the bottom of the bucket


I agree, but I mostly use them to correct stub ups out of a slab. Sometimes I use one to tweak a mis-bend in RMC or IMC. You can't usually tell.


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## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

Bending is something I would like to become exceptional at. I work with a few Journeys who are pipe experts and their runs always look awesome. Maybe I will pipe my garage just for fun and put up some unnecessary lights.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

76nemo said:


> Benfields technique is easy to learn. There used to be a VHS you could get with it, which if it's still available, it's prolly Blu-Ray now:whistling2::laughing:


What is this..."VHS"... you speak of?


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

Vintage Sounds said:


> Bending is something I would like to become exceptional at. I work with a few Journeys who are pipe experts and their runs always look awesome. Maybe I will pipe my garage just for fun and put up some unnecessary lights.


 

Bending is like playing guitar, soldering, welding, etc. No real way to learn it once and for all, you have to constantly perfect it. I've seen pipe work worthy of stopping to pull a camera out at, it amazes me.

There's good and there's AMAZING. I've seen one or two Jimi Hendrix's of pipe and it's grand to watch it go up!!!!! I've seen one guy never lay a pencil mark on a pipe, just his thumbnail and that SOB could string a da*n Xmas tree with thinwall and never leave a kink


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## Tiger (Jan 3, 2008)

Just give it a quick bend and cut the ends to the proper length and it'll be perfect.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Tiger said:


> Just give it a quick bend and cut the ends to the proper length and it'll be perfect.


Well... I'm sure we've all worked around one or two guys like that. That's not only wasteful, but lazy. In much the same way that I think "conduit artwork" is a waste of labor, that "bend in the middle and cut to fit" method is a waste of material.

People often say to that, "I know so-and-so that bends amazing looking pipe jobs and is faster than most of the guys he works with". To that, I respond, "Imagine how much faster he'd be if he didn't feel compelled to make an art project out of his pipe".


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> Well... I'm sure we've all worked around one or two guys like that. That's not only wasteful, but lazy. In much the same way that I think "conduit artwork" is a waste of labor, that "bend in the middle and cut to fit" method is a waste of material.
> 
> People often say to that, "I know so-and-so that bends amazing looking pipe jobs and is faster than most of the guys he works with". To that, I respond, "Imagine how much faster he'd be if he didn't feel compelled to make an art project out of his pipe".


 


I don't think it's wasteful when the artist making the artwork can do it in his sleep, no dog leg flat:thumbsup:

I'll bend one way or another, and cut the opposing end, but not both


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

76nemo said:


> I don't think it's wasteful when the artist making the artwork can do it in his sleep, no dog leg flat:thumbsup:


Not doglegging pipe is not an example of conduit art. That's a basic requirement. What I'm talking about are things like concentric bending when simple back-of-bend measurements will do the trick. Another example is crazy rolling offsets when you're not even trying to preserve that 360 degrees between pull points, when you could have done it a simpler way with a few more degrees between the pull points.


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

This is some work I did on a church a few years ago. I enjoy bending EMT. Stick with the same benders and get to know them. Mine have "custom" marks on them of all sorts. I have crutch tips on the ends for bending in the air. It keeps it from sliding on a slick concrete or terazzo floor.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> Not doglegging pipe is not an example of conduit art. That's a basic requirement. What I'm talking about are things like concentric bending when simple back-of-bend measurements will do the trick. Another example is crazy rolling offsets when you're not even trying to preserve that 360 degrees between pull points, when you could have done it a simpler way with a few more degrees between the pull points.


 
I said,..."in his sleep". I think:blink:

I know what you mean Marc.....


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

amptech said:


> This is some work I did on a church a few years ago. I enjoy bending EMT. Stick with the same benders and get to know them. Mine have "custom" marks on them of all sorts. I have crutch tips on the ends for bending in the air. It keeps it from sliding on a slick concrete or terazzo floor.


That's a nice run.

Last company I worked for rarely allowed enough time to plan a route like that. So you'd often see an excess of saddles as one man was sent to do a run, and then another would come by later and do a different run, etc.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

This conversation reminds me of a time when I yanked someone's end pull into a 12X12". We couldn't get it through and I rerouted it. Somebody got upset and asked why I just didn't grab some lube. I told him we were out and he said use hand-sanitizer.

I gave that some thought, it is an alcohol base, he was above me, I said "Really?", he said sure. Pulled like butter, anyone else ever do this? It was 3/4" packed. Granted I cleaned the terms like the statue of Virgin Mary, but has anyone else ever resorted to that??????


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

76nemo said:


> This conversation reminds me of a time when I yanked someone's end pull into a 12X12". We couldn't get it through and I rerouted it. Somebody got upset and asked why I just didn't grab some lube. I told him we were out and he said use hand-sanitizer.
> 
> I gave that some thought, it is an alcohol base, he was above me, I said "Really?", he said sure. Pulled like butter, anyone else ever do this? It was 3/4" packed. Granted I cleaned the terms like the statue of Virgin Mary, but has anyone else ever resorted to that??????


Yes, indeed. I did a job on an army base, and used more lube than I thought I would. I robbed every ounce of hand soap from every men's room in the work area.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

76nemo said:


> This conversation reminds me of a time when I yanked someone's end pull into a 12X12". We couldn't get it through and I rerouted it. Somebody got upset and asked why I just didn't grab some lube. I told him we were out and he said use hand-sanitizer.
> 
> I gave that some thought, it is an alcohol base, he was above me, I said "Really?", he said sure. Pulled like butter, anyone else ever do this? It was 3/4" packed. Granted I cleaned the terms like the statue of Virgin Mary, but has anyone else ever resorted to that??????


Yep, soap, simple green, rubbing alcohol, been there done that.


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Go add some outlets in your shed, do the measurements and subtractions, use the eye. It will come to you . I practiced at 13 yo in my fathers basement , by 18 I was running conduit jobs for a big name co.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Rubbing alcohol??

Why, does it dissolve the insulation and make it slick?

I would gather it would evaporate pretty quickly otherwise.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Frasbee said:


> Rubbing alcohol??
> 
> Why, does it dissolve the insulation and make it slick?
> 
> I would gather it would evaporate pretty quickly otherwise.


No. Not much touches THHN. Acetone and MEK are the only two things that come to mind right off.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

amptech said:


> I have crutch tips on the ends for bending in the air. It keeps it from sliding on a slick concrete or terazzo floor.


That's a good idea, I might try that. However, I usually use the open end of the bender handle to slide over the pipe in order to take some out of a bend when necessary.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Frasbee said:


> Rubbing alcohol??
> 
> Why, does it dissolve the insulation and make it slick?
> 
> I would gather it would evaporate pretty quickly otherwise.


:laughing::laughing: It's called "field engineering" at it's finest, works as a cutting lube too when you don't have anymore or can't use oil.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That's a good idea, I might try that. However, I usually use the open end of the bender handle to slide over the pipe in order to take some out of a bend when necessary.


Yeah, that's pretty handy on the 1/2 and 3/4 benders. Get in a hurry and you can overbend before you realize you probably shouldn't be in such a hurry.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

Jlarson said:


> Yep, soap, simple green, rubbing alcohol, been there done that.


 
WTH? I thought I was going to get bashed about hand sanitizer. Are you serious? I really thought I/he was going to get stoned here

How in criminy's sake do you know what type of reaction those chemicals will have on the insulation in years to come with so many different scenario's????????????


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

76nemo said:


> How in criminy's sake do you know what type of reaction those chemicals will have on the insulation in years to come with so many different scenario's????????????


I wouldn't lay awake at night worrying about it. Says "oil and gasoline resistant" right on the nylon outer covering. Those are two things that are bad enough we're not supposed to put on our hands. Hand sanitizer, on the other hand, is to be rubbed on the hands. If a conductor is oil and gas resistant, I think it can tolerate hand sanitizer, don't you?


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

76nemo said:


> WTH? I thought I was going to get bashed about hand sanitizer. Are you serious? I really thought I/he was going to get stoned here
> 
> How in criminy's sake do you know what type of reaction those chemicals will have on the insulation in years to come with so many different scenario's????????????


I have a degree in chemistry. 

























:jester: Yeah like that would ever happen.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> I wouldn't lay awake at night worrying about it. Says "oil and gasoline resistant" right on the nylon outer covering. Those are two things that are bad enough we're not supposed to put on our hands. Hand sanitizer, on the other hand, is to be rubbed on the hands. If a conductor is oil and gas resistant, I think it can tolerate hand sanitizer, don't you?


 

I find it hard to hear you say that....................


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

76nemo said:


> I find it hard to hear you say that....................


Besides they like me, a geeky single loser OTOH...


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Jlarson said:


> :laughing::laughing: It's called "field engineering" at it's finest, works as a cutting lube too when you don't have anymore or can't use oil.


For dairy work, they generally spec us to use USP mineral oil for thread cutting oil. Works pretty well, actually.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

76nemo said:


> I find it hard to hear you say that....................


Okay, just read it instead. Turn off your speakers. :laughing:


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> For dairy work, they generally spec us to use USP mineral oil for thread cutting oil. Works pretty well, actually.


The rubbing alcohol as a cutting lube thing came from semiconductor work. 



MDShunk said:


> Okay, just read it instead. Turn off your speakers. :laughing:


:laughing::laughing:


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

Jlarson said:


> Besides they like me, a geeky single loser OTOH...


 
I'll put it this way, when it comes to lube, I would like to have something listed for such use. I know the term "whatever works", but just "anything" doesn't fly there, I don't have enough documentation on the sort to dispute anything otherwise.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

76nemo said:


> I'll put it this way, when it comes to lube, I would like to have something listed for such use. I know the term "whatever works", but just "anything" doesn't fly there, I don't have enough documentation on the sort to dispute anything otherwise.


I've used plain water before too.


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## azsly1 (Nov 12, 2008)

i know the last one isnt conduit but you use the same measurements to find offsets


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## Edrick (Jun 6, 2010)

azsly1 said:


> i know the last one isnt conduit but you use the same measurements to find offsets


There ya go pictures, that's what I like to see.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Tickles me to see a router on the end of a section of switchgear. I opened up a cabinet full of drives the other day, and it had a 24-port switch inside. The future is now, I guess.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

As great as that looks red tag for lack of securing. 













> 344.30(A) Securely Fastened. RMC shall be securely fastened
> within 900 mm (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box,
> device box, cabinet, conduit body, or other conduit termination.
> Fastening shall be permitted to be increased to a
> ...



Just saying ....


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

76nemo said:


> I'll put it this way, when it comes to lube, I would like to have something listed for such use. I know the term "whatever works", but just "anything" doesn't fly there, I don't have enough documentation on the sort to dispute anything otherwise.


There are a few situations where lube choice is important. What I use on wire ain't real important to me, as long as it isn't a real bad VOC, or a strong acid or base, or solvent that will attack the insulation or copper I would use it.


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## flyingspade (Apr 9, 2009)

I usually deal with larger size conduit (2" - 4"). I'll take some pictures tomorrow of my work and post them here. 

*Here are some tips I've learned for cosmetic good looking conduit.*

1. Always use a pencil. A sharpie is easier to see, but just doesn't look good if you made a mistake.

2. Always use a Electrician Torpedo Level when bending, the more consistant your bends, the quicker you will get. 

3. Offsets, try to use the 30 degrees whenever possible. It's the easiest to calculate. Measure the obstruction, and double it and thats your distance between marks. 

4. Quickly walk your whole route, try to guess how many bends in the run, as it will help you plan your pull box locations. Remember 360 degrees is the maximum. 

5. Avoid back to back 90's as much as possible, they add alot of strain into your pulls, I recommend kicking your conduit where you can. 

6. Try to use strut where practical. Multiple raceway support saves time! 

*Some bending tips i have for multiple raceways on same support systems.* 

1. Maintain your spacing between conduits. For larger trade sizes (1 1/2" - 6"), I typically use 2" + Trade size between conduits. This will make progressive bends easier. 

2. Progressive 90's using a uniform spacing. Just measure the first 90, and add for each additional needed. For example. I have a rack of 4 - 3" EMT with 5" spacing between centers. The first 90 I measured that i needed is a 24" 90 degree bend. I now know my other 90 degree bends being, 29", 34", 39". 

3. Progressive kicks using the same method as progressive 90's, This will allow the faning motion of the conduit run with the same start bend point. For example using the same rack as before, I need a 9" Kicked 90 for each pipe. I would mark the first pipe say 20" back, therefore the other pipes will start at 25",30",35" respectifully. 

4. Cut the conduit after a 90 degree change of direction in the same plane (horizontal / vertical) , this will allow you to align the couplings in a straight line. This will also simplfy the math on the next set of bends.

Hope this helps some!


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

You hear many guys/gals speak of their "own" marks. No one certain shoe will all have the same deflection as the rest.


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## goose134 (Nov 12, 2007)

Practice, practice, practice. Good layout is critical in making fast AND good looking conduit runs.


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## goose134 (Nov 12, 2007)

One more for the big pipe enthusiasts:


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## Tiger (Jan 3, 2008)

Edrick said:


> Alright so I'm looking to work on some of my skills and as such I got my self a Klien 3/4" Conduit Bender. I'm looking for peoples suggestions, the dos and donts, and any other advice you have. As always pictures of conduit work you've done or links to it is always appreciated. (Preferably metallic conduit pictures).


While I don't really cut conduit at both ends, if you attempt to do the work in these pictures, you won't get anything accomplished. My first question is why 3/4" instead of 1/2". 1/2" is easier to bend so a little easier to learn. From the perspective of an employer, 1/2" and 3/4" conduit is very inexpensive and labor is expensive. Some extra scrap doesn't add up to much compared to extra labor. Beginners usually have a lot of scrap anyway.


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> Yes, indeed. I did a job on an army base, and used more lube than I thought I would. I robbed every ounce of hand soap from every men's room in the work area.


I worked with a guy once who always used dish washing liquid for lube. I never though anything about it until we had to pull some #8 conductors out of 1" EMT that we had pulled in a couple of years earlier using soap. We could have used Elmer's Glue and not been stuck any tighter! When the dish soap dried it really stuck all of the conductors together. It was an overhead run in a factory and we had to take the EMT apart a section at a time to get the conductors out.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

amptech said:


> I worked with a guy once who always used dish washing liquid for lube. I never though anything about it until we had to pull some #8 conductors out of 1" EMT that we had pulled in a couple of years earlier using soap. We could have used Elmer's Glue and not been stuck any tighter! When the dish soap dried it really stuck all of the conductors together. It was an overhead run in a factory and we had to take the EMT apart a section at a time to get the conductors out.


Should have used more force, like tie the run to the truck or a fork lift. I wouldn't take a run apart till I ran out of stuff to yank on the wire with first.


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## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> Should have used more force, like tie the run to the truck or a fork lift. I wouldn't take a run apart till I ran out of stuff to yank on the wire with first.


I have heard stories of that ending badly, like pipe racks coming off the ceiling and through walls


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Vintage Sounds said:


> I have heard stories of that ending badly, like pipe racks coming off the ceiling and through walls


Well obviously I stop before I get to that point... :laughing:


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> In 2010, I don't think anyone does concentric bends. Maybe in 1950, but not in 2010. There's no compelling reason to do that. That's something you do one time to say you did it, and never again.


Concentric bending is very useful if you need to match different size conduits. Say you need to run a 1" next to a 4": Without concentric bends, the 1", if inside the 4" radius, will lap over the 4". If the 1" is ran on the outside of the 4" radius, the 1" will be about 20 inches away from the 4" at the center of the 4" radius.

There are some industrial plants that still require concentric bending.


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## blusolstice (Sep 17, 2010)

alright i had to add a few pics from jobs i've done in the last couple of years. the first pic i didn't do any of the pipe work, the rest of them i did.


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## subelect (Nov 25, 2007)

I have to ask the stupid question.
When you bend your offsets, do you typically put your No-dog level on the conduit or do you just go with your bender being perpendicular to the floor? How does using a level keep you from not having a clean offset? (I told you it would be a dumb question)

And, why can I bend just fine when I am by myself, but I suck whenever there is an apprentice with me or even worse, when the boss is there? They don't say anything, they just watch me and I manage to screw up all by myself. Do you bend better when nobody is hovering over you?


Finally, out here in the boonies, we wire new circular steel grain bins a couple of times each year. I usually shove the 1-1/4" EMT or 1" IMC into the rungs of the installed ladder and put a bump in the conduit every 30" until it conforms to the circular wall of the grain bin. Does anybody else in farm-country do this or do you use your 1-1/4" bender?
Thanks,
Rick

Thanks,
Rick


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Some of my pipe work


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## blusolstice (Sep 17, 2010)

brian john said:


> Some of my pipe work


Bwahahahahahahahahaha they're nicely grouped :laughing:


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## blusolstice (Sep 17, 2010)

subelect said:


> I have to ask the stupid question.
> When you bend your offsets, do you typically put your No-dog level on the conduit or do you just go with your bender being perpendicular to the floor? How does using a level keep you from not having a clean offset? (I told you it would be a dumb question)
> 
> And, why can I bend just fine when I am by myself, but I suck whenever there is an apprentice with me or even worse, when the boss is there? They don't say anything, they just watch me and I manage to screw up all by myself. Do you bend better when nobody is hovering over you?
> ...


i only use a nodog when i'm using a mechanical bender, if i'm using a foot bender i bend by my lazer level eye lol.


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## Edrick (Jun 6, 2010)

Tiger said:


> While I don't really cut conduit at both ends, if you attempt to do the work in these pictures, you won't get anything accomplished. My first question is why 3/4" instead of 1/2". 1/2" is easier to bend so a little easier to learn. From the perspective of an employer, 1/2" and 3/4" conduit is very inexpensive and labor is expensive. Some extra scrap doesn't add up to much compared to extra labor. Beginners usually have a lot of scrap anyway.


Being that I'll be using far more 3/4th than 1/2 the cost of buying a 1/2 Conduit bender to practice on compared to a 3/4th bender that I'll be actually using outweighed the cost of buying 3/4 compared to 1/2. So basically the short reasoning for it is because I've already got the 3/4th bender.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

brian john said:


> Some of my pipe work


Is any of that cu-al? If not would you consider using cu-al for the labor savings.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

> Is any of that cu-al? If not would you consider using cu-al for the labor savings.


I have no clue, I was there for a PQ investigation and saw the excellent installation.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

brian john said:


> I have no clue, I was there for a PQ investigation and saw the excellent installation.


I wouldn't call it excellent, but I've done some like that. I guess my question was about the cu-al. It would seem to be able to save a lot of time not having to make up the ground (egc) joints.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

RIVETER said:


> I wouldn't call it excellent, but I've done some like that. I guess my question was about the cu-al. It would seem to be able to save a lot of time not having to make up the ground (egc) joints.


Cu-Al??

I think you're really talking about MC-AP, right?


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Maybe so. I remember going to a South wire event. And they were touting the fact that it was the only MC of that type that was authorized to use the outer corrugated covering as the egc.


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

Jlarson said:


> Should have used more force, like tie the run to the truck or a fork lift. I wouldn't take a run apart till I ran out of stuff to yank on the wire with first.


We pulled it with a tugger until the conduit started to bend the top of the tub down and gave up. The EMT was slipping in the strut straps. It was stuck!


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

amptech said:


> We pulled it with a tugger until the conduit started to bend the top of the tub down and gave up. The EMT was slipping in the strut straps. It was stuck!


Yeah I would have stopped there too.


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## superdeez (Sep 13, 2010)

*Pipe work tape*

Someone else on this site HAS to have done this. I call this puppy my "pipe work tape." I only really use this one for working with pipe (that includes when I have to work with PVC even just to cut it). It really helps with ½ &3/4 anyway.


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## flyingspade (Apr 9, 2009)

This is from my current project, all pipes you can see are 2" - 4" EMT.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

superdeez said:


> Someone else on this site HAS to have done this. I call this puppy my "pipe work tape." I only really use this one for working with pipe (that includes when I have to work with PVC even just to cut it). It really helps with ½ &3/4 anyway.


 
Is that a magnet, I take it? I have the magnetic tip on my Kleins.


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## voltz (Jun 2, 2010)

76nemo said:


> Is that a magnet, I take it? I have the magnetic tip on my Kleins.


thats the old school magnet :laughing:


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## Article 90.1 (Feb 14, 2009)

To the OP: Use a piece of solid wire as a model of the bends you are going to make in a piece of pipe. put your first bend in the wire, say a 90 to the right, then add a 4" offset up, bend the wire up, then flip it and bend the other side of the offset. This method can save you from setting in the wrong direction, or facing your 90 the wrong way.

Also, get yourself a good rare earth magnet torpedo level, one that sticks to the conduit no matter what.

If I'm bending an offset the first bend gets made with the conduit on the floor. The second bend may start up in the air, buy I move the conduit and bender as one unit and finish the bend on the floor, it is a lot easier to watch what is going on this way and you have better control throughout.


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