# Conduit must be full seated in hub



## Smileyboy (Apr 24, 2007)

Is there a code article for this? 

I got called on it today.. Id say about 4-5 threads are in the hub. Inspector wants it fully seated. 
Thx


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

I have never got one to seat fully. I think the code only requires it to be tight. Similar to fittings having to be wrench tight.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Bulldog1 said:


> I have never got one to seat fully. I think the code only requires it to be tight. Similar to fittings having to be wrench tight.


If it does bottom out I would say that is a sign that something is wrong.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> If it does bottom out I would say that is a sign that something is wrong.



Ditto. I've never been able to spin one in all the way to the end of the threads.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I have not been able to find anything in the NEC that states how many threads must be engaged.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I have not been able to find anything in the NEC that states how many threads must be engaged.


I just went looking for 'wrench tight' and its in a few places (grounding, hazardous areas, conduits supporting fixtures etc) but no general requirement.

The grounding one applies to that installation.




> *250.92(B) Method of Bonding at the Service.* Electrical continuity
> at service equipment, service raceways, and service
> conductor enclosures shall be ensured by one of the following
> methods:
> ...


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

Had an inspector who tried to tell me the rigid 2" had to bottom out in the aluminum hub. We chucked a piece of 2" rigid in the 300 and put a pipe wrench on the hub and hit the pedal. Split the hub well before bottoming out. He said the hub was defective.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

BBQ said:


> I just went looking for 'wrench tight' and its in a few places (grounding, hazardous areas, conduits supporting fixtures etc) but no general requirement.
> 
> The grounding one applies to that installation.


That is what I found. Wrench tight can be 2 threads , 4 threads or whatever. 

I would ask the inspector for an article. I checked UL white book and came up with nothing.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

amptech said:


> Had an inspector who tried to tell me the rigid 2" had to bottom out in the aluminum hub. We chucked a piece of 2" rigid in the 300 and put a pipe wrench on the hub and hit the pedal. Split the hub well before bottoming out. He said the hub was defective.


 
While I agree it should not bottom out, the one the op pictured certainly could go further.


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## Wireman191 (Aug 28, 2011)

Isn't there something about 5 threads being engaged to be considered water tight?


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Wireman191 said:


> Isn't there something about 5 threads being engaged to be considered water tight?


 
That's for explosion proof, not watertight


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## Smileyboy (Apr 24, 2007)

Cool cant wait to drop this on him. I'm am soo sick of the personal pref this with inspectors.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Smileyboy said:


> Cool cant wait to drop this on him. I'm am soo sick of the personal pref this with inspectors.


Use some threading oil and a pipe rench and turn that in some more once it is at the point you can not turn it by hand any more it is tight enough the threads will be about half way in the hub don't go any farther than that because like the others said it will break.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Smileyboy said:


> Cool cant wait to drop this on him. I'm am soo sick of the personal pref this with inspectors.


When you are done you should see about 1/2" to 3/4" of threads at the top of the hub.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

HARRY304E said:


> When you are done you should see about 1/2" to 3/4" of threads at the top of the hub.


 
That would depend on how far he threaded the pipe


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

Judging by the pics, I think you could have gone further. Next time use some lubricant and a wire brush on the threads, it will thread better. By the way it almost looks cross threaded. Maybe that's why it didn't go any deeper.


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## troublemaker1701 (Aug 11, 2011)

I always find that if its factory threads and you that if you run the threads with a die and oil it will go on a lot further and easier.


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## dowmace (Jan 16, 2008)

mcclary's electrical said:


> That's for explosion proof, not watertight


I could have swore it was 5 for raintight and 7 for explosion proof


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

7 Threads 5 engaged for expo. nothing for anything else.
Ask him for the code ref.


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## kub (May 27, 2009)

I use a little wire wheel in my drill ,clean the threads then put some nolox on the threads, helps a lot. A mast I did last week just about bottomed out in the hub with a few wrench turns.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

I have found it necessary to use a thread die - the cheap Harbor Freight ones are good enough - to remove excessive plating from the threads on conduit.

Oddly enough, I have never had problems with the threads that come with a coupling on them- just the ones with the plastic cover.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HARRY304E said:


> When you are done you should see about 1/2" to 3/4" of threads at the top of the hub.


 
If there is 3/4" showing you have something wrong.


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

Looks like you only have 2 of the 11 treads engaged in the hub.
There's something wrong. :whistling2:


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

It looks cross threaded


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