# What would be a good Multimeter to start my career with?



## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

a T+Pro would probably be the best choice, IMO, unless you are REQUIRED to furnish your own multimeter, then that would be a different story. What do the journeyman have? do they bring their own? 

remember, most locals have a tool list and that represents both a _requirement_ and a _limit_. What that means is that a journeyman is_ required_ to furnish a set of tools specifically required by a contract with employers. It also means that a journeyman is_ limited_ to the tools on the list. 

I only know of one local that actually _requires_ a multimeter, and I think they have a limit on how valuable the meter can be in dollar terms. 

This would probably be ok if multimeters are on the list.










This one would not be ok because it costs more than most electricians make in a week (take-home).


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

Start out right. Buy a Fluke. Probably a crazy way to do it but you can get some good deals on used Fluke meters on Fleabay. Maybe something like a Fluke 87? How much do you want to spend? I've got an old Fluke 12 that I've used for years. I've also got an 87 and a 335 clamp meter. I probably use the clamp meter 90% of the time.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Man don't buy a fluke, it's going to get lost or stolen within your first year of owning it.

Get something cheap.. then you can accidentally blow it up, forget it somewhere or have it ripped off and not be all depressed for a week.

Get something for less than $50. Get one that reads true RMS, rated cat III 600 or cat III 1000 and has some sort of clamp of open jaw for reading AC current.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Get a Wiggy and a volt tick (non-contact voltage tester). As a 1st year, you just need to know whether what you are working on is energized or not, not measure frequency, capacitance, etc. A Wiggy uses a solenoid, basically, so it will tell you whether a circuit is energized or not without giving you ghost voltages to confuse you.


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## Wirescraper (Nov 27, 2011)

my fluke was stolen and i was depressed for a week because i did buy it while in trade school, my own money, like $200. Shop replaced it with an ideal and i can't tell the difference, except for one thing, the ideal will rarely read open load when checking for shorts with resistance test, damn thing reads right through the insulation and gives you megger readings basically. Can be frustrating when you want to read direct short or open load and you get 9 million ohms because its an open, but the damn thing is so sensitive, or strong or whatever you'd call it.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

First get a T5-600, that will do most of what you need.

If you are at the point that you actually NEED a DMM, then you will also be at a point in which you know which functions, features, and abilities that you need the meter to have.

If you're dead set on buying one now, I think the 117 is a great all around DMM for the price.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

I agree with the others: I know we all get hardons for fancy meters, but unless you're rich, I don't see the point in an apprentice springing for a DMM.

Get a tester that will tell you AC, DC, and continuity and has at least a CAT III 600V rating. That will handle 95% of what you'll run into. Eventually you'll see a need for more advanced troubleshooting tools, but even then those will stay in the truck for a lot of jobs.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

HackWork said:


> First get a T5-600, that will do most of what you need.
> 
> If you are at the point that you actually NEED a DMM, then you will also be at a point in which you know which functions, features, and abilities that you need the meter to have.
> 
> If you're dead set on buying one now, I think the 117 is a great all around DMM for the price.


 
I agree with the T5-600. Less than $100 and it's super easy to use. No worrying about AC or DC settings. It's automatic so an apprentice won't get easily confused.

It's my daily go to meter. Works for 99% of what I do.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Going_Commando said:


> Get a Wiggy and a volt tick (non-contact voltage tester). As a 1st year, you just need to know whether what you are working on is energized or not, not measure frequency, capacitance, etc. A Wiggy uses a solenoid, basically, so it will tell you whether a circuit is energized or not without giving you ghost voltages to confuse you.


That's actually really good advice. Both of those items you'll still use well into your career.

volt tick will warn of voltage or not, and and the wiggy will read if it's real power there, and tell you roughly how much.

Anything else will confuse you and waste your time.


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## Bbsound (Dec 16, 2011)

+1000 on the Fluke T5. 
I use it 99.99% of the time, and it is rugged enough to bang around in a tool bag all day.


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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

ive had an AMPROBE, sorry dont know what model at the moment, that i have been using for at least 15 years, never had an issue with it, use it often, has all the readings and a clamp for amps. i believe it was only around $90. when i got it . probly more now!( go figure) check model # tommorrow:thumbup:


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## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

did the op ever say whether he was supposed to furnish a meter or what? he might be limited to a "knopp"-type tester, "electrical tester", "or equivalent". In that case, IDK, i think the T+Pro might be best. Amprobe is a sister company of fluke so their cheap meters might be the best of the cheap meters.

personally i have a fluke 112, 289, t+pro and about 4 tic-tracers that I picked up over the years. I'm a hobbyist so that's why I got the 112 and 289 but I would never use my own personal 289 at work though. most locals have contracts that require the company to provide the multimeters instead of the employee.


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## halfamp (Jul 16, 2012)

My first meter was a commercial electric POS. It worked for what I needed when I just started and probably cost less than $20

After that I got a fluke 117 which I still have. Depending on your needs I'd recommend just starting with a t5 like everyone else said. See how it suits your needs and go from there. Many guys never move beyond this meter.


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

ramco said:


> Im a 1st year apprentice out of local 428, Bakersfield, currently working with Rosendin on a big solar project.
> -I was wondering what kind of multimeter would you guys recommend that I get to start off my career? I've been told that I wouldn't be using one on a solar project so I have not bought one yet- and they are pretty damn pricey. what model do you guys recommend for beginners? -Thanks!


An ideal neon tester is all you need for 90% of things if you know how to use it and distinguish different voltages from the light intensity


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Cletis said:


> An ideal neon tester is all you need for 90% of things if you know how to use it and distinguish different voltages from the light intensity


1. A Wiggy Style tester
2. A Tic Tracer or similar
3. I do understand the want of a DMM and normally that is something the electrical contractor should furnish.

Clete, a young man wanting a DMM is like more horse power and also can give him a better understanding of his chosen field.


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

brian john said:


> 1. A Wiggy Style tester
> 2. A Tic Tracer or similar
> 3. I do understand the want of a DMM and normally that is something the electrical contractor should furnish.
> 
> Clete, a young man wanting a DMM is like more horse power and also can give him a better understanding of his chosen field.


Well...thats true. I have at least 15 dmm's most which collect dust


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

brian john said:


> 1. A Wiggy Style tester
> 2. A Tic Tracer or similar
> 3. I do understand the want of a DMM and normally that is something the electrical contractor should furnish.
> 
> Clete, a young man wanting a DMM is like more horse power and also can give him a better understanding of his chosen field.


Well said. I started using a dmm pretty early during my apprenticeship since my Dad wanted me to do a lot of troubleshooting, especially with alarm systems, but on a day to day basis I used a wiggy and a tic tracer. Heck, I only bust out my fluke 179 about once every 2-3 weeks, usually to test capacitors or to trace circuits. The most important thing for an apprentice to know before they grab wires to make sure they are de-energized.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Cletis said:


> Well...thats true. I have at least 15 dmm's most which collect dust


If I work in the field I use a DMM, for go no go I have Cat III Knopp.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

brian john said:


> ...A young man wanting a DMM is like more horse power and also can give him a better understanding of his chosen field.


 But I also caution against giving a greenie a device with four-thousand bells and whistles that increase the risk of confusion and mistakes: You learn to drive on a Honda Civic before you get in the cab of a Freightliner.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

For a long time the only meter I had was a craftsman, less than $60, it handled everything I needed at the time. I bought a Fluke after my tools were stolen a few years back. Its definitely great but you could get by with a cheapo and do just fine. 

Make sure it can measure AC and DC, make sure it has a continuity tester with a ringer, and get one with an amp clamp (you'll be happy you did the first time you need it!!) . Good to go.


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## phil20 (Apr 30, 2013)

1st year app pick up the Klein ET200 it vibrates n lights up it tests from 12-600 volts I just replaced my wiggy and this is much better And its at home depot for $40 plus get the milwawkee induction testor $20


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## phil20 (Apr 30, 2013)

phil20 said:


> 1st year app pick up the Klein ET200 it vibrates n lights up it tests from 12-600 volts I just replaced my wiggy and this is much better And its at home depot for $40 plus get the milwawkee induction testor $20


It also does continuity


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## phil20 (Apr 30, 2013)

it also does continuity


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

Better yet how about some of us just donate meters to him? I've got a pile of them that still work and it would give me an excuse to buy some more!! I have and Amprobe DMM that I used for probably 18 years that still works just fine. I don't think I care for the new Amprobes though as they look too cheap.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

wendon said:


> Better yet how about some of us just donate meters to him? I've got a pile of them that still work and it would give me an excuse to buy some more!! I have and Amprobe DMM that I used for probably 18 years that still works just fine. I don't think I care for the new Amprobes though as they look too cheap.


Do you have an Amprobe analog current clamp. This clamp is what you need to use to verify your digital clamp is right.

Great little clamp. I had a couple of them at one time.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

phil20 said:


> 1st year app pick up the Klein ET200 it vibrates n lights up it tests from 12-600 volts I just replaced my wiggy and this is much better And its at home depot for $40 plus get the milwawkee induction testor $20


I am still leery of dmm's for checking voltage. I troubleshoot with my fluke 179, but i trust my life to my wiggy. Never had a false positive with it, or weird readings. I also dont work on 400 hz equipment before someone posts that wiggy picture.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

John Valdes said:


> Do you have an Amprobe analog current clamp. This clamp is what you need to use to verify your digital clamp is right.
> 
> Great little clamp. I had a couple of them at one time.


Still got one I bought about 28 years ago but I haven't used it in a long time. I had some trouble with the solder joint breaking on the wire that connected the jaws.


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## big2bird (Oct 1, 2012)

I use a knopp, and a milwaukie ticker. I like the built in flashlight.
Work gave me a Milwaukee amprobe/meter combo that works fine.
At home on the bench, my good old Simpson 260 that gets calibrated every other year. I like it for my audiophile equipment.


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