# Best Ground Rod Driver Tool?



## newspark80 (Feb 20, 2011)

Looking to purchase a demo hammer for driving ground rods and want to know what you guys use. Best and worst out there. Used a sledge hammer for the last time....


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

newspark80 said:


> Looking to purchase a demo hammer for driving ground rods and want to know what you guys use. Best and worst out there. Used a sledge hammer for the last time....


I have a 40lb Kango electric mud gun/breaker combo. Works great for almost every lava field I run across.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

We have old industrial black and decker hammer drills we use. No adapter. Just put it on the rod and drive them.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Hilti TE905AVR w/ground rod kit.





































I got called by another EC just to drive two ground rods they couldn't get into the ground. I had 'em in within 2 minutes of arrival.

One of the guys said, "If I hadn't seen that with my own eyes, I never would have believed it. I want one now!"








I've even driven rods through 2' of frost with no problem


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## rick480volt (Aug 23, 2011)

Have an old milwaukee hammer, with the hammer or hammerdrill option, and just hammer it in the ground. Works very well....


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)




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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Yep!



480sparky said:


>


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

an apprentice???


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

I have a hitachi that I have used for the last seven years


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## itsunclebill (Jan 16, 2007)

Cheapest? Bought one of those Harbor Freight $60.00 hammer-drills while the Milwaukee was in the shop. Cut off a $5.00 chisel from the same place and put a sleeve on it. Takes a couple of minutes. I figure that the stupid thing has cost about fifty cents a rod so far. 'Course I figured if it got me through the job I bought it for it had paid for itself. The rod driving is all bonus.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Hilti TE905AVR w/ground rod kit.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm definitely buying one. Where's a good place online to order one? I got mixed results on my google search. Have any ideas?


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## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

Magnettica said:


> I'm definitely buying one. Where's a good place online to order one? I got mixed results on my google search. Have any ideas?


I want one too that looks great


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## paul_arc (Mar 31, 2009)

i use what 480sparky has. works great, I should get the proper ground rod kit though.
Here is a 3/4"x 20' rod without any problems


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

paul_arc said:


> i use what 480sparky has. works great, I should get the proper ground rod kit though.
> Here is a 3/4"x* 20'* rod without any problems


 
20' , that a local thing ?


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## paul_arc (Mar 31, 2009)

CADPoint said:


> 20' , that a local thing ?


3/4" rods are spec'ed for schools, its two 10' rods with a rod cupling. It was bad soil. Drove 60' of rods to get it to pass the 10 ohms requirement.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

paul_arc said:


> i use what 480sparky has. works great, I should get the proper ground rod kit though.


I have never seen that as an accessory... it's always with the power unit as a kit.



paul_arc said:


> Here is a 3/4"x 20' rod without any problems





CADPoint said:


> 20' , that a local thing ?


Maybe a spec. I've driven 20-footers standing on the ground.


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## Roadhouse (Oct 16, 2010)

That tool has my volt, er, vote. :thumbsup:


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## paul_arc (Mar 31, 2009)

480sparky said:


> I have never seen that as an accessory... it's always with the power unit as a kit.


 
Thats odd, I bought mine about 5 years ago and it didn't come with one.. Im going to search for one now.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

paul_arc said:


> Thats odd, I bought mine about 5 years ago and it didn't come with one.. Im going to search for one now.


The one that slides _around_ the rod, allowing you to drive a 100' rod without climbing a ladder?


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## paul_arc (Mar 31, 2009)

480sparky said:


> The one that slides _around_ the rod, allowing you to drive a 100' rod without climbing a ladder?


yep, and the attachment for the end of the rod.


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## rdr (Oct 25, 2009)

480sparky said:


> I've even driven rods through 2' of frost with no problem



Drool....drool.....drool......



mikeh32 said:


> an apprentice???


What's wrong with an apprentice? What are you even referring to anyway?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

rdr said:


> Drool....drool.....drool......


With enough drool, you don't need power tools. :laughing:




rdr said:


> What's wrong with an apprentice? What are you even referring to anyway?


Apprentices tend to start bleeding too much if the ground is hard or rocky. That, and they tend to start complaining after a while.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

I have a Metabo ME 56....German made and half the price of Hilti.. Drives ground rods like the Hilti..Only its black not red...:laughing:


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## rdr (Oct 25, 2009)

480sparky said:


> With enough drool, you don't need power tools. :laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good point about the drool. :laughing:

I'm an apprentice, and I've driven them with hammer drill on a ladder, sledgehammer on a ladder, and fence post driver like buddy in the video was. Never bled or complained. I must be the exception. :whistling2:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

rdr said:


> ...........I'm an apprentice, and I've driven them with hammer drill on a ladder, sledgehammer on a ladder, and fence post driver like buddy in the video was. Never bled or complained. I must be the exception. :whistling2:


That's because you were using _tools_. Use an _apprentice_ next time.


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## That's It? (Aug 31, 2011)

480sparky said:


> That's because you were using _tools_. Use an _apprentice_ next time.


 har har hardy har har:no:


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

:laughing:


That's It? said:


> har har hardy har har:no:


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

Black Dog said:


> I want one too that looks great


they are pricey. i've got the same hilti demo hammer with a regular
ground rod driver. i couldn't justify this one. i don't drive enough
rods, and i have a ladder to stand on...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HILTI-S-CON...ultDomain_0&hash=item415e8cfc0a#ht_500wt_1156

$200 takes it away.... don't crowd the check out line....

hm. for that amount of money.... 'cept i just spent all my 
tool money at the festool store.... nevermind.....


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## rdr (Oct 25, 2009)

480sparky said:


> That's because you were using _tools_. Use an _apprentice_ next time.


Well played, sir. Well played indeed.....

If I do it that way it really doesn't matter if the guy has a license or not.....just saying.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

I use a Makita 30# (i think) demo hammer w/g rod attachment. It was available at HD when I needed one so that's what I got. The attachment tool would be slick. I have to climb an 8' ladder to start mine.












BTW, this kid lasted about a week. The pants tell the whole story. Nicest kid in the world but...........


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

220/221 said:


> The pants tell the whole story.


I was gonna say that the kid looks like a douchebag. The kinda dude that needs to go get a real s**tty job so he can actually appreciate being offered an opportunity in the trade.


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

Hilti Te-76 with end rod attachment. Hammer drill/breaker. Remember Hilti ATS is not your friend if you need to drill rebar. 
But for the cost and warranty plus the abuse I put my tools through I love my Hilti. As for those in need see if there is a Hilti store close, you got to set up an account though.
I do also like the slide on rod driver but don't have one.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Sparky J said:


> ......Remember Hilti ATS is not your friend if you need to drill rebar. ........


What is ATS, and why would you need to drill rebar?


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

*Testing Ground Rod Resistance*

... New thread


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

480sparky said:


> What is ATS, and why would you need to drill rebar?


It's stands for automatic torque control (I think) it's like an automatic unadjustable clutch (PITA) it will stop the drill if you encounter too much resistance. But it's problem is it does not know if that resistance is rock, rebar, etc. I have also herd that it gets more sensitive over time. As far as drilling rebar by choice no but it does happen occasionally. :whistling2:


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

How about the Eritech Ground Rod Driver.
You don't need a hammer drill, power or a ladder to drive a rod.
There is an insert to the driver that lets you drive a rod to below grade.
It weighs about 30 lbs.

It works good for the occasional rod.

http://www.erico.com/public/library/fep/LT1483.pdf


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

tkb said:


> How about the Eritech Ground Rod Driver.
> You don't need a hammer drill, power or a ladder to drive a rod.
> There is an insert to the driver that lets you drive a rod to below grade.
> It weighs about 30 lbs.
> ...



May work fine until you start hitting rocks.


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

tkb said:


> How about the Eritech Ground Rod Driver.
> It works good for the occasional rod.
> 
> I had one it works great unless there is lots of rocks or rocky backfill. Had a helper who broke it though years ago. Somehow he got it so filled with [email protected] and somehow jammed a rod onto it.  I tried everything to get it off had to trash it already had Hilti and one less helper...


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## Sonny1027 (Mar 20, 2009)

Here is a good one!


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

I remember doing ground rods in -20f, and hitting rocks due to this whole county is a quarry(rock pit things, to lazy to see if i spelled this right). 

I did it with a sledge hammer, jack hammer, bobcat, and the hilti one. 

My favorite being the bobcat, but best is the hilti


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## janagyjr (Feb 7, 2011)

I am so not looking forward to this. lol


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Milwaukee*

Old Milwaukee from 1988'. Still going strong. Think I only paid $150 at the time for drill and vibrator attatchement


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

Cletis said:


> Old Milwaukee from 1988'. Still going strong. Think I only paid $150 at the time for drill and *vibrator attatchement*


 Man you must have one badass ole lady:laughing:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Cletis said:


> Old Milwaukee from 1988'. Still going strong. ........



They tend to last that long when you only use it once every 6 years. :laughing:


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## rdr (Oct 25, 2009)

Mr Rewire said:


> Man you must have one badass ole lady:laughing:


I used to joke about hooking one up to a 454


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*useless*



480sparky said:


> They tend to last that long when you only use it once every 6 years. :laughing:


Actually, we use it about 40-70 times per year out of that truck. Mostly for ground rods and chiseling brick to shove in the service conductors. About 10-20 min per use. Not bad...That old milwaukee stuff was kick ass

Thanks for the tip on hooking up the vibrator attatchement:whistling2:


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## Widestance_Politics (Jun 2, 2010)

tkb said:


> How about the Eritech Ground Rod Driver.
> You don't need a hammer drill, power or a ladder to drive a rod.
> There is an insert to the driver that lets you drive a rod to below grade.
> It weighs about 30 lbs.
> ...


Gotta say I'd rather employ the kid with goofy pants than this obvious slug.....I can hear him wheezing from here...


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## Archania (Mar 16, 2009)

I always use my Hilti demo hammer with the ground rod driver. Takes about 1-2 min to drive a 3/4" 10' rod. Wouldn't do it any other way...


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## rdr (Oct 25, 2009)

220/221 said:


> I use a Makita 30# (i think) demo hammer w/g rod attachment. It was available at HD when I needed one so that's what I got. The attachment tool would be slick. I have to climb an 8' ladder to start mine.
> 
> BTW, this kid lasted about a week. The pants tell the whole story. Nicest kid in the world but...........


What was his major malfunction other than being a douchebag? I knew a guy that was such a pretty boy he highlighted his tips and worried about hat head from the hard hats but he actually turned out to be a pretty good hand.


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## denver electrician (Oct 24, 2011)

*Best Way To Drive Groung Rods*

October 24 2011 Denver Electrician

Water!!! In areas where the water table is close to the surface, water well drillers use the tamper method, whereas a heavy "tamper" is tamped in the ground using water and remarkably the tamper keeps going deeper into the ground and thus getting down to the water table. This form of drilling is for shallow wells. 

Take an 8' ground, Tamp into the ground far enough enough as to not stick it, pull it out and add water. Move it in an up and down motion adding water when necessary so the rod will not stick. Continue until rod is almost all the way down and tamp the rest of the way with a hammer. When the mud dries the rod has full contact with earth and you are done. Cost, a little water and 10 minutes or less of your time.
Huck


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

denver electrician said:


> October 24 2011 Denver Electrician
> 
> Water!!! In areas where the water table is close to the surface, water well drillers use the tamper method, whereas a heavy "tamper" is tamped in the ground using water and remarkably the tamper keeps going deeper into the ground and thus getting down to the water table. This form of drilling is for shallow wells.
> 
> ...


That's a code violation.


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## janagyjr (Feb 7, 2011)

Is it?


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

janagyjr said:


> Is it?


I didn't write that for nothing.


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Exactly what do you use the vibrator attachment for ?


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## janagyjr (Feb 7, 2011)

mcclary's electrical said:


> I didn't write that for nothing.


I was kind of hoping you'd cite the code reference. Should have been less vague, I guess. :whistling2:


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

janagyjr said:


> I was kind of hoping you'd cite the code reference. Should have been less vague, I guess. :whistling2:


250.53 (g)


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## janagyjr (Feb 7, 2011)

Nothing I read about his procedure violates that code section. He says he tamps it flush with a hammer and that it is in full contact with the earth when the mud dries.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

janagyjr said:


> Nothing I read about his procedure violates that code section. He says he tamps it flush with a hammer and that it is in full contact with the earth when the mud dries.


He's not driving it in, he's sloshing it in.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

I've used various rotohammers, demolition hammers, etc. One problem is that if there is a fair amount of rod sticking out, it flexes all over the place, rather than driving straight in. A lot of the impact is lost that way.

I've seen internet ads for attachments like the one shown with the Hilti, and I'm delighted to hear that they work. I like the idea a lot.

Google 'gorund rod drivers' and all sorts of interesting gizmos will come up. Ditto for 'post drivers.' Some of them might even work. There are even little drill tips / auger points you're supposed to attach to your rods and just 'drill' them into the ground. Let me know if you try them out ....

I see Greenlee is marketing what looks like a post hole driver with air hose fittings. A pneumatic driver of some sort. I'd love to hear how it works.

I've moved form a start that was all mountains to one that -at least my side- is all mud. I suspect driving the ground rod won't be too bad.

I start with a post-hole driver that I've modified by inserting a piece of 1" EMT and filled with mortar for extra weight. Once I get through the easy top stuff, I switch over to the demo hammer.

The guys with the bucket are doing it all wrong. You're supposed to just hold the rod and use the bucket to push it in.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

mcclary's electrical said:


> He's not driving it in, he's sloshing it in.


I'm no Zog, but I am pretty certain that electrons wouldn't know the difference.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> I'm no Zog, but I am pretty certain that electrons wouldn't know the difference.


I bet they would. The resistance on his rod is huge, and the very reason code mandates driving rods over burying them.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

mcclary's electrical said:


> I bet they would. The resistance on his rod is huge, and the very reason code mandates driving rods over burying them.


The driven rod has more pressure on the area that contacts the dirt. It's kinda like a press fit.

The water method lessens the soil compaction in the area immediately surrounding the rod.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Lets be fair fella's . Rods ain't worth a wing ding till about a thousand volts and you both know it.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> Lets be fair fella's . Rods ain't worth a wing ding till about a thousand volts and you both know it.


Yep, but my original statement was not about theory, it was about code...


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

macmikeman said:


> Lets be fair fella's . Rods ain't worth a wing ding till about a thousand volts and you both know it.



Bury a couple of these around the rod and you'd be surprised how low you can get the resistance. After a good rainy season it gets even better.


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## janagyjr (Feb 7, 2011)

Are those salt licks?


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

mcclary's electrical said:


> That's a code violation.


If it is i don't care, because that's my preferred method. It works like charm.


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

Something sad is that in a jam you can actually drive a rod with a plate tamper. Tried it a couple of times actually works good but you have to be carefull and not to let the handle flex too much or you'll be buying an new tamper. :jester:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

janagyjr said:


> Are those salt licks?



No, they're blocks of salt.


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## catfishjack (Sep 4, 2011)

best ground rod driving tool aka...my helper


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I was out pouring a pad for a generac today and was pounding a rod while the plumbers helpers were mixing the concrete. I was using the makita spline shaft with the ground rod attachment and wondering how much faster that Hilti would do it. It took the better part of half an hour of and on with a 5 pound hammer and the makita to get it all the way in. This included taking breaks to rake the concrete too.


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