# Blade stuck in M12 Hackzall



## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

The collar should pull down a little and then twist CCW but it seems to be stuck. I put some WD40 and 3-in-1 on it but no luck.

Any ideas??

I've had it for a couple of years but it's lightly used.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Pictures please.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Tap it with a small hammer and if that fails add channel locks. I've had that problem with spring loaded chucks in the past.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Its has dirt in it.
You just have to spray it and work it like Mech suggested.

https://documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-40-6514.pdf


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I got a blade stuck in a Hackzall once when I put the blade in upside down. It was an ADD day. With two guys and enough fooling around we got it out.

I had a bit get stuck in an M18 impact once and that required a trip to the repair depot. They said it was an anvil, whatever that is.

I'm wondering if the end of your blade hit something dead on and it got jammed inside.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> I got a blade stuck in a Hackzall once when I put the blade in upside down. It was an ADD day. With two guys and enough fooling around we got it out.
> 
> I had a bit get stuck in an M18 impact once and that required a trip to the repair depot. They said it was an anvil, whatever that is.
> 
> I'm wondering if the end of your blade hit something dead on and it got jammed inside.


I've had several bits get stuck in impacts and had to grab them with channel locks and try to run the tool in the opposite direction to break them free. The second time is when I started keeping a back up tool in the van.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I've had several bits get stuck in impacts and had to grab them with channel locks and try to run the tool in the opposite direction to break them free. The second time is when I started keeping a back up tool in the van.


I find it best to make sure the bits are impact rated and change them often.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> I find it best to make sure the bits are impact rated and change them often.


You're absolutely correct but I had the impacts long before they had rated bits available, I have learned to use good ones.

Changing them out when they start to feel snug going in is key, even the good ones.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

I gave mine a spray bath in WD40. Took almost 2 cans before the plaster washed out enough and it cleared.. 
I don't use any oil in mine as the dust will get caked up.. I do spray it clean with WD at the end of the work week and let it sit and dry over the weekend.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

M12 Hackzalls just don't seem to hold up compared to M18's.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Wirenuting said:


> I gave mine a spray bath in WD40. Took almost 2 cans before the plaster washed out enough and it cleared..
> I don't use any oil in mine as the dust will get caked up.. I do spray it clean with WD at the end of the work week and let it sit and dry over the weekend.


WD 40 is okay for hinges or something along those lines but isn't good for mechanisms such as firearms or a spring loaded chuck like that, it leaves behind a waxy residue when it dries. I've heard many stories about it causing malfunctions.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

MechanicalDVR said:


> WD 40 is okay for hinges or something along those lines but isn't good for mechanisms such as firearms or a spring loaded chuck like that, it leaves behind a waxy residue when it dries. I've heard many stories about it causing malfunctions.


I've had more issues with an oil based product then WD.. WD isn't more then a parts washing solution. 
If it didn't collect so much dirt I would just lube with some graphite like on hinges. 
I would rather use some CLP on a weapon.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Wirenuting said:


> I've had more issues with an oil based product then WD.. WD isn't more then a parts washing solution.
> If it didn't collect so much dirt I would just lube with some graphite like on hinges.
> I would rather use some CLP on a weapon.


CLP 100%, but many have used the ole WD.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

99cents said:


> M12 Hackzalls just don't seem to hold up compared to M18's.


Plus they won't cut tinfoil.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

sbrn33 said:


> Plus they won't cut tinfoil.


Are you making mac a new hat for 2017?


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

MechanicalDVR said:


> CLP 100%, but many have used the ole WD.


 
I do keep a rag sprayed with WD in my tools box in the work truck. It helps to keep moisture at bay. In my garage I use an oily rag in each draw. 

A few days ago at work I had to replace some gear that was coated in cosmoline. I searched the abandoned engine room and found an empty can of PD-680. Man I wish it was full, that stuff was great.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

99cents said:


> M12 Hackzalls just don't seem to hold up compared to M18's.


I've gone through at least 4. Cutting through 2 layers of drywall is a death sentence to them.It overheats and melts the wire. 
I do like them for cutting out boxes and opening up drywall- just not 2 layers. Oh they also are sweet for doing trench pvc work.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Wirenuting said:


> I do keep a rag sprayed with WD in my tools box in the work truck. It helps to keep moisture at bay. In my garage I use an oily rag in each draw.
> 
> A few days ago at work I had to replace some gear that was coated in cosmoline. I searched the abandoned engine room and found an empty can of PD-680. Man I wish it was full, that stuff was great.


Ever try Virginia 10 solvent ?


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

99cents said:


> M12 Hackzalls just don't seem to hold up compared to M18's.


My dad has had two where the reciprocating mechanism has seized up. Mine has had the same problem as OP is having. Working the gunk loose with WD-40 helped, but it still doesn't feel quite right.

I basically just use mine as a powered keyhole saw anymore. Got the M18 Fuel sawzall a couple months ago and have been very happy with it. Still not as good as a band saw for clean cutting, but very versatile and powerful.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

nbb said:


> My dad has had two where the reciprocating mechanism has seized up. Mine has had the same problem as OP is having. Working the gunk loose with WD-40 helped, but it still doesn't feel quite right.
> 
> I basically just use mine as a powered keyhole saw anymore. Got the M18 Fuel sawzall a couple months ago and have been very happy with it. Still not as good as a band saw for clean cutting, but very versatile and powerful.


I wonder if they had a bad run of them or something. I've used my M12 saw for all kinds of conduit, rod, and strut in tight spots have side stress on the blades and all with no problems.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

oops


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> A bad batch wouldn't be surprising at all ... I'd assume Miwaukee doesn't make their own cells for the batteries, maybe their supplier got a good deal from the factory that makes the Samsung cell phone batteries


I'm thinking in the gearing of the tool or something more than just battery problems. I have always kept batteries numbered for ID purposes and in a circle of rotation between different tools.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I'm thinking in the gearing of the tool or something more than just battery problems. I have always kept batteries numbered for ID purposes and in a circle of rotation between different tools.


I was mixed up when I read the bad batch thing, I thought it was the V28 one with the batteries burning up.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> I was mixed up when I read the bad batch thing, I thought it was the V28 one with the batteries burning up.


That could be also, maybe missing a connection or two.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

splatz said:


> I was mixed up when I read the bad batch thing, I thought it was the V28 one with the batteries burning up.


That was about the tool burning up, not the battery. The cells in many cordless tool battery packs are Samsung INR18650 25R. They are a lithium iron phosphate chemistry, which is much less susceptible to thermal runaway than the lithium cobalt oxide chemistry used in cell phone batteries.


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