# Lutron Maestro



## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

the standard ones are wired, but they make an rf wireless version. go to the catalog.
http://www.smarthome.com/66003WH/Lu...o-600W-Wireless-3-Way-Dimmer-Kit-White/p.aspx


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I'm pretty sure Mystero has slave and master dimmer switches that work through the neutral..


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

B4T said:


> I'm pretty sure Mystero has slave and master dimmer switches that work through the neutral..



I agree a neutral is required at both switches


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I stand corrected. If this is a standard Maestro then it does not call for a neutral however the code requires it to be present at every box if you use the 2011 NEC. Also I don't see how you can do this easily without feeding one switch and then not carry the neutral to the other. If you feed and switch leg in the same box you will need the 3 wires at the last box


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## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

I think' that I did a Maestro a while back 6 or so years, and it used a 24v twisted pair to the remote, not line voltage. This shouldn't fall under the carry a neutral rule. May not have been Maestro though been a while.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

JohnR said:


> I think' that I did a Maestro a while back 6 or so years, and it used a 24v twisted pair to the remote, not line voltage. This shouldn't fall under the carry a neutral rule. May not have been Maestro though been a while.


Not this Maestro but perhaps another version of the switch. Some homework switches have line voltage and 24v lines to the switch but I am not familiar with the 24v only


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## Voyager (Mar 4, 2010)

If you don't mind a battery in the remote switch, you can use the Maestro PICO wireless model. I have used them several times. The wall mount option for the remote makes it look just like the Maestro switch with a plate. No wiring to the remote that way.


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## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

B4T said:


> I'm pretty sure Mystero has slave and master dimmer switches that work through the neutral..


Most lutron dimmers and companion switches pull a small amount of current to power the control electronics through the load even when the devices are "off". They have to be wired in series so the current can pass through each companion switch, then the master switch, then the load. Its a little funny but they "invented the dimmer" and that is how chose to design their products to be sold to markets where no neutral is installed. If the load is below their minimal load requirements then the lamps may not extinguish even when the switch is turned "off".

Look at their wiring diagrams - In a 4-way configuration, all 3 devices as well as the load must be constantly energized with a small amount of current constantly flowing to power the control electronics. There is a jumper wire required when using a mechanical switch so that the current will continue to flow through the load even when the mechanical switch is off. In the right conduit wiring configurations with enough travelers (you may need 5 wires total) available it may be possible to use two+ mechanical switches to switch the "blue" sensor which returns to the master switch dimmer, however it is necessary to include the jumper wire at the first 3-way box and a separate "continued" hot thereafter so that continuity from the master dimmer to the load is maintained at all times. You must also enter advanced programming mode on the master and set it to the mode for use with mechanical switches.
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/048-123b.pdf

The cheapest lutron wall mounted motion sensors "require" a "ground" which constantly sinks current for control and detection purposes. These sensors actually come with two ground leads, one for the yoke/strap and one to sink the current powering the microcontroller. I have started connecting the "ground" required to power the microcontroller to the neutral line because I don't like stray voltage on the ground for no reason.

Some Legrand and Lutron multi location products do "require" a neutral. They also do not have the annoying requirement that the line voltage must first pass through each companion switch, then the master switch, then the load.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I have Maestro's in my living room and hallways. They stink. I built this place in 2000. One of these days I WILL get around to yanking them out and putting in plain old non dimming rocker switches.......


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