# Chandelier lift



## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

So I need a chandelier lift for an ugly crystal chandelier. 
About 18' up in the middle of an almost open 25x35 addition. Approximately 60#.
I have decided on the ALL200: http://www.aplussupply.com/lighting/lift/lift.html 

Any tips, hints or comments?


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## electricmalone (Feb 21, 2013)

Make sure the key switch is within sight of the chandelier, what a mess it makes if you go too low or high! Once you think the motor is good and secure, add two more lag bolts, never hurts. Good luck!


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

i've done about a dozen of those. they work pretty slick. most fine tuning is done once the fixture is assembled and hanging. adjusting the canopy and the height of the octagon and adjusting the limits so hopefully you've got decent attic space to work on this


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I would put a 6' piece of 2X10 on top of the ceiling beams to distribute the weight more evenly...

It eliminates the problem of nails popping through the drywall if there is too much flexing in that location.. 

This is the one I used.. http://www.aladdinlightlift.com/pdf/ALL300 Installation Instructions.pdf


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## yankeewired (Jul 3, 2008)

Make sure you wrap both connecting plates with plastic and tape if installing lift in new construction . Painters typically spray the ceiling paint coats on and it is a major headache to clean off. Also consider installing the button control as an upgrade to the keyswitch because holding and waiting for it to lower feels like an hour as it is designs to gently lower and raise the fixture.. I would also suggest having extra fixture nipples of various sizes and lengths with additional locknuts . Many chandeliers only use a 3/8" fixture nipple but the lift has a fixture hickey which is 3/4 X 1/2 only so when you are ready to install and you have a 3/8" nipple your out of luck , and again every canopy is of different depth so having different length nipples will make the install easier. The last tip I will strongly suggest is have the box with receiving plate mounted in a extended (lowered) position until you test lift it !! If you try and eyeball the exact fit to the ceiling first time you will tear thru the finished plaster. You will see that octagon box/ connecting plate needs to sit 1 to 3 inches above the sheetrock in the attic space typically and this will take a bit of adjustment. The unit is designed to allow this .


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

Speedy Petey said:


> So I need a chandelier lift for an ugly crystal chandelier.
> About 18' up in the middle of an almost open 25x35 addition. Approximately 60#.
> I have decided on the ALL200: http://www.aplussupply.com/lighting/lift/lift.html
> 
> Any tips, hints or comments?


Chandalease.com


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Even though this fixture only weighs 60#... I would install it like it weighed the limit.. 200#...

You never know when a customer is going to change directions on you and buy a new much heavier fixture..


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## kbsparky (Sep 20, 2007)

We just did one on a new house project. Aladdin unit, similar to yours.

We had to remote mount the winch unit, so that made for an interesting setup. Ensure you have adequate room in the attic for servicing the main unit, or else you will also have to remote mount it.

One suggestion I have is replace those die-cast EMT connectors with steel ones. Mine split open, and I had to disassemble the whole she-bang to replace it! 

AS others have said, be sure to cover up the mounting plate so the painters won't ruin it, as well as the junction box.


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## T Healy (Aug 27, 2011)

Once after getting the husband's permission and hanging a chandlelier I asked him what he thought, he says it looks very nice, just what I wanted the right height and everything so let me call my wife. The lady comes home says oh yes it is nice, too bad it's not my chandlelier.


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