# Best Mc Cutter



## Nschtib (Dec 10, 2014)

I don't own a mc cutter yet, (rolo zip or whatever its called), and I was wondering what the best brand to get is. Greenlee? I've heard Klein is kinda crappy so I didn't want to make a bad purchase. Let me know what you think!


----------



## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

The old standby Seatek is still the best IMO.
I am partial to the RS-101A.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Speedy Petey said:


> The old standby Seatek is still the best IMO.
> I am partial to the RS-101A.


Agreed. I've been using that exact model for as long as I can remember. It seemed to be the standard.


----------



## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

The Klein model is made by seatek.


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Seatek is the go to for armored cable strippers.


----------



## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

*RS-101 Roto-Split "Original"*


----------



## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

Yes the 101. 
No longer stocked at the supply house here. But they can still get them. 
They fit better in my hammer holster, and seem to last a little longer than the other Seatek models.


----------



## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Black Dog said:


> *RS-101 Roto-Split "Original"*


The auto-clamping one is much better.


----------



## btharmy (Jan 17, 2009)

MTW said:


> The auto-clamping one is much better.


Yes, the 101A.


----------



## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

MTW said:


> The auto-clamping one is much better.


Till it wears out which is fast.


----------



## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

I find that using the auto clamp one causes me to over squeeze the other side. This makes the cutter side bind faster. Once that happens it goes into the big Klien bag of broken tools used for spare parts. 

If Seatek makes the Klien sold at home cheapo, they made it to last less than a month.


----------



## btharmy (Jan 17, 2009)

Black Dog said:


> Till it wears out which is fast.


 Nah. I've had my current one for years with no problems. Besides, it also has blade storage in the handle.


----------



## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

I have found that by the time I have to change the blade, the tool has used it's usefull life. 

It usually binds in the handle after that. 

The apprentice on the job last week was able to make a useful tool out of the six garbage roto strip tools I had in my graveyard though.


----------



## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

cabletie said:


> I have found that by the time I have to change the blade, the tool has used it's usefull life.
> 
> It usually binds in the handle after that.
> 
> The apprentice on the job last week was able to make a useful tool out of the six garbage roto strip tools I had in my graveyard though.


The best way to go, is cut off that stupid clamp, drill and tap the pin hole for a 1/4x20 by 1" hex screw, works great after....:thumbsup:


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Black Dog said:


> Till it wears out which is fast.


I still have the first one I bought and I think it's safe to say that as a union member doing commercial work for a very long period of time, I cut a damn lot of MC. Along with lot's of old steel BX when doing residential.

What exactly do you think wears out on the 101A?


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

cabletie said:


> I find that using the auto clamp one causes me to over squeeze the other side. This makes the cutter side bind faster. Once that happens it goes into the big Klien bag of broken tools used for spare parts.
> 
> If Seatek makes the Klien sold at home cheapo, they made it to last less than a month.


If you are oversqueezing due to the lever, then you probably have it set way too tight. Loosen the set screw so that the lever bottoms out when the cable is nice and tight in the cup but not squeezed in too hard.


----------



## Nschtib (Dec 10, 2014)

What about the Ideal Cutter? That one has pretty good ratings.

If I got the seatek do I just order online?


----------



## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

Someone just buy this guy a root split and hand deliver it to him on his job site. Good lord


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

cabletie said:


> I have found that by the time I have to change the blade, the tool has used it's usefull life.
> 
> It usually binds in the handle after that.
> 
> The apprentice on the job last week was able to make a useful tool out of the six garbage roto strip tools I had in my graveyard though.


Funny how different people have different experiences. 

Like Hack, I still have the first one I bought. And I can tell you, I change the blade a lot.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

ponyboy said:


> Someone just buy this guy a root split and hand deliver it to him on his job site. Good lord
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I can see that you're a bit on the edge and I understand why. sbrn33 has been gone a long time and it's really getting to you.

But don't fret, he should be back from Cabo any day now. We should throw him a welcome back party thread.


----------



## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I can see that you're a bit on the edge and I understand why. sbrn33 has been gone a long time and it's really getting to you.
> 
> 
> 
> But don't fret, he should be back from Cabo any day now. We should throw him a welcome back party thread.



I know. I don't know what my problem is. Everything upsets me nowadays. I'm sorry guys


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Nschtib (Dec 10, 2014)

Sorry dude! I was just wondering! I just don't normally go to supply houses for my tools is all


----------



## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Nschtib said:


> Sorry dude! I was just wondering! I just don't normally go to supply houses for my tools is all


Really? That's where most of us buy our tools.
Where else do you buy specialty tools..like a Roto-Split?


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I never buy tools from the supply house, they are way too expensive. I will typically order tools online or sometimes buy them from Lowes or Home Depot when they have a good deal.


----------



## Nschtib (Dec 10, 2014)

HackWork said:


> I never buy tools from the supply house, they are way too expensive. I will typically order tools online or sometimes buy them from Lowes or Home Depot when they have a good deal.










Speedy Petey said:


> Really? That's where most of us buy our tools.
> Where else do you buy specialty tools..like a Roto-Split?


Exactly what he said!


----------



## Jhellwig (Jun 18, 2014)

HackWork said:


> I still have the first one I bought and I think it's safe to say that as a union member doing commercial work for a very long period of time, I cut a damn lot of MC. Along with lot's of old steel BX when doing residential.
> 
> What exactly do you think wears out on the 101A?


What does the union have to do with wearing out a rotosplit?


I never knew there was any other way to split mc/ac cable than a rotosplit.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Jhellwig said:


> What does the union have to do with wearing out a rotosplit


What I said was pretty clear.


----------



## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

Jhellwig said:


> I never knew there was any other way to split mc/ac cable than a rotosplit.



There is the hacksaw method. Klien also makes a MC/BX cutter that looks a little like *****. 

I bought the *****/snips thinking that if I got good at it I could be as fast as Roto splits. That was never going to happen. Too bad to because then I would not have to worry about them hanging up on metal studs. I get annoyed when my Roto splits get yanked out of my hammer holster while asking between studs.


----------



## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

I've done the hacksaw thing in my early days. Did the rotozip thing. Got lazy and found that angled tin snips work the fastest for me. And on a good day I trim the armor 90° so the bushing sits flush to the connector.


----------



## btharmy (Jan 17, 2009)

Nschtib said:


> Sorry dude! I was just wondering! I just don't normally go to supply houses for my tools is all


They sell them at ace hardware here.


----------



## Rollie73 (Sep 19, 2010)

I still use the hacksaw method. Its what I've gotten used to over the years and it works well. I don't even own an MC/AC cable splitter anymore.

NOW.....let the ridicule begin:laughing:


----------



## Jupe Blue (Aug 18, 2008)

The best one is the one the contractor buys for you. Not on my tool list, I don't buy one for the job.


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Rollie73 said:


> I still use the hacksaw method. Its what I've gotten used to over the years and it works well. I don't even own an MC/AC cable splitter anymore.
> 
> NOW.....let the ridicule begin:laughing:


Sad. .... so sad. ...lol


----------



## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

Dikes work great for me.


----------



## fisstech (Feb 2, 2013)

im gonna be a smart ass and say, "hands and a pair of *****"


----------



## Rollie73 (Sep 19, 2010)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Sad. .... so sad. ...lol


Thanks Jerry.....its just not a good day at ET if somebody doesn't get ridiculed on here:thumbsup:


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

fisstech said:


> im gonna be a smart ass and say, "hands and a pair of *****"



We _ere at et believe in equality for all and t_erfore please be a responsible citizen and refer to t_at piece of mac_inery as diagonal cutting pliars.....:laughing:




P.S. Anybody talked to Steve lately?


----------



## Stryder89 (Dec 9, 2010)

Shockdoc said:


> I've done the hacksaw thing in my early days. Did the rotozip thing. Got lazy and found that angled tin snips work the fastest for me. And on a good day I trim the armor 90° so the bushing sits flush to the connector.


What's a hacksaw? Oh, that rusty thing under everything in the van.:laughing:


----------



## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Stryder89 said:


> What's a hacksaw? Oh, that rusty thing under everything in the van.:laughing:


Last time I saw someone using a hacksaw I told him he was working like a criminal.


----------



## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

I have the Greenlee one, it is about 15 years old and works like a champ. Funny, I have never seen the Seatek one at a supply house here on the West Coast. Wonder if it is a location thing?


----------



## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

Stryder89 said:


> What's a hacksaw? Oh, that rusty thing under everything in the van.:laughing:


I have one-----somewhere:laughing:


----------



## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

I've had a greenlee bx cutter for about five years. The old 1940, though I guess Amazon shows a new version. Anyway, it's lasted a long long time, despite heavy use. I didn't ever change the blade until last winter because we were wiring patient rooms and the spec called for steel jacketed hospital ac cable. That stuff is tough on a blade. But this one has outlasted a lot of folks' roto splits and Klein versions.


----------



## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

But it's my most hated tool ever even though it works great. Why? Because it's bulky. Because it's used for one job and one job only. Hate it. But would use it over any other splitter.


----------



## Jhellwig (Jun 18, 2014)

HackWork said:


> What I said was pretty clear.


Right...................


----------



## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

I have an ideal. Works ok, does it's job, then gets lost in the bottom of the tool box. Anyone use the MC-AP with the aluminum ground? Comes with a little adapter you stick on the cutter so you don't go too deep.


----------



## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

WIsparky71 said:


> I have an ideal. Works ok, does it's job, then gets lost in the bottom of the tool box. Anyone use the MC-AP with the aluminum ground? Comes with a little adapter you stick on the cutter so you don't go too deep.


So I use the 101, I just leave the thumbscrew a little loose.


----------



## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Shockdoc said:


> I've done the hacksaw thing in my early days. Did the rotozip thing. Got lazy and found that angled tin snips work the fastest for me. And on a good day I trim the armor 90° so the bushing sits flush to the connector.


For the most part, I've always used a Roto-split. But after a while, you can also become pretty quick using a pair of snips/***** instead. Whatever is easier.

I'd like to know if anybody uses those special Klein MC snips, and if they are any better than a regular pair of tin snips.



WIsparky71 said:


> I have an ideal. Works ok, does it's job, then gets lost in the bottom of the tool box. Anyone use the MC-AP with the aluminum ground? Comes with a little adapter you stick on the cutter so you don't go too deep.


Do you need to use a special cutter with MC-AP?


----------



## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

MHElectric said:


> For the most part, I've always used a Roto-split. But after a while, you can also become pretty quick using a pair of snips/***** instead. Whatever is easier.
> 
> I'd like to know if anybody uses those special Klein MC snips, and if they are any better than a regular pair of tin snips.
> 
> ...


Not that I know of. I think its personal preferance. They just give you 2 spacers, depends what kind of cutter you use as to what spacer you need. Keeps you from squeezing it too tight. It's just not as thick of a cable.


----------



## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

WIsparky71 said:


> Not that I know of. I think its personal preferance. They just give you 2 spacers, depends what kind of cutter you use as to what spacer you need. Keeps you from squeezing it too tight. It's just not as thick of a cable.


Can you use snips too or will you risk cutting the bond wire?

I've been meaning to try MC-AP cable out the next time I have a good sized MC job. Just haven't had a chance yet.


----------



## btharmy (Jan 17, 2009)

MHElectric said:


> Can you use snips too or will you risk cutting the bond wire?
> 
> I've been meaning to try MC-AP cable out the next time I have a good sized MC job. Just haven't had a chance yet.


You are supposed to cut the bond wire flush with the end of the jacket anyway.


----------



## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

MHElectric said:


> Can you use snips too or will you risk cutting the bond wire?
> 
> I've been meaning to try MC-AP cable out the next time I have a good sized MC job. Just haven't had a chance yet.


Yeah you just cut off and bend it over per the instructions. AP has it's place I think, I feel like new construction with new four squares. Keeps the boxes cleaner. I just feel like sometimes it's nice to have that ground wire to make a good connection. . IMHO


----------



## samc (Oct 19, 2013)

Ive done the hacksaw and then the roto split, but same here the tin snips works the fastest for me.


----------



## samc (Oct 19, 2013)

btharmy said:


> You are supposed to cut the bond wire flush with the end of the jacket anyway.


Who told you this? The bond strip is supposed to wrap around the outside of the jacket a few times. 

There really is no trouble with using tin snips, it's alot easier then you think.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

samc said:


> Who told you this? The bond strip is supposed to wrap around the outside of the jacket a few times.


No, it's not. That is just something that you do, not something that is supposed to be done.

As for MC-AP, the bond wire is a larger gauge and will not wrap around nicely like the small gauge bond wire in BX. The instructions for MC-AP clearly say to cut it flush with the jacket.


----------



## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

HackWork said:


> No, it's not. That is just something that you do, not something that is supposed to be done.
> 
> As for MC-AP, the bond wire is a larger gauge and will not wrap around nicely like the small gauge bond wire in BX. The instructions for MC-AP clearly say to cut it flush with the jacket.


I have not used it in a few months but I thought there was something about bending it at like a 120 degree angle? We were using it with Arlington snap in connectors. Either way the instructions tell you what to do.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

WIsparky71 said:


> I have not used it in a few months but I thought there was something about bending it at like a 120 degree angle? We were using it with Arlington snap in connectors. Either way the instructions tell you what to do.


I remember about 7-8 years ago when it first came out the supply house gave us some along with the new Rotosplit made to cut it. The tag on the cable showed pliers cutting the #10 aluminum bonding wire right near the jacket and didn't mention doing anything else with it.


----------



## btharmy (Jan 17, 2009)

samc said:


> Who told you this? The bond strip is supposed to wrap around the outside of the jacket a few times. There really is no trouble with using tin snips, it's alot easier then you think.


Nope. That's just personal preference. Not required or even recommended by the manufacturer.


----------



## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

Of all the manufactures you can break them down into two. One with cellophane and the bond strip over top of the cellophane, And one without cellophane. Buy the one without cellophane. You'll make better time.


----------

