# Chicago Bender



## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Do you have any rules of thumb when using a Chicago Bender? Do you know easy ways to get more pipe bent and installed? What do you need to know about the benders on the job?


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

RIVETER said:


> Do you have any rules of thumb when using a Chicago Bender? Do you know easy ways to get more pipe bent and installed? What do you need to know about the benders on the job?


They cost a lot so you better lock it up before that puppy walks.


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

When I worked in construction I used one allot. you will need a protractor (Craftsman makes the best) and a no-dog. Also from my experience they work better if one man is doing the pumping and someone else is watching the protractor and no-dog. That is why the larger contractors prefer a 555 . One man can do it all.
Bendfield formulas work fine for the most part. and the degree indicators are not accurate.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

That's my only advice. Abandon the degree scale on the bender and use your own inclinometer.

I had to make my own marks on mine for takeup by first bending a test piece. The mark in the casting was off by almost 1/4".


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## Triple Nickel (Jul 15, 2010)

I like Chicago Benders, One person can load one into a van, and you don't need a generator to run it. Greenlee makes a version that will break down into a small box. 
One of my favorite tricks for perfect offsets every time is , load it w/ a stick of pipe, click the handle to snug up the shoe, pull handle all the way back up and drop the handle. once or twice depending on how large of an angle you looking for. Pull it out, use a protractor to find the angle, then look up the cosecant of that angle, and thats your multiplier for that size pipe. No leveling, no protractor, for future offsets.
Now it does make it harder for other electricians to match you work.


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

Use some scrap pipe to determine the bend center for the degrees of bend that you normally use: 30, 15 10,ect. Mark these bend centers on the bender shoe.

Use math (Trig cosecant) to lay out offsets or saddle bend centers before placing the pipe in the bender.

Use a piece of strut strapped to the pipe to hold a level to prevent dog legs: put pipe in bender, level strut, make first bend, move pipe to second bend center mark, rotate pipe 180, level strut - DO NOT USE THE STRUT AS A LEVER TO TURN PIPE, make second bend, offset finished.

If you are good with a hand bender, a Chicago bender is fairly easy to adapt to. You will develop a feel for the amount of bend per effort, just like a hand bender.

Good luck.


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

A Chicago bender will bend rigid a lot easier than a hand bender.


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## Wingnut (Jan 31, 2010)

I have the gear on mine marked for the stationary pawl at @ 30, 45, 90, deg.

for 3/4" and 1" pipe.

We don't ratchet 3/4,:no: 
some of the bigger kids don't ratchet 1":blink:


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## Loose Neutral (Jun 3, 2009)

A lot of pipe can be bent using the click method. If it has to be dead nuts, i like to pull it and use the center of bend method.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

I have never used the cosecant. That is good info. Around here we generally run 3/4" rigid. If I get a different bender than usual I weld angle iron feet to it and insert 1/2" rod through the bottom to create a leveler for the bender. It can be leveled and then the locking nuts will lock it into position...mark the floor in case it moves a little. Or bolt it to the floor.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

Never use the 1/2" shoe. The radius is way to tight. Use the 3/4" shoe for 1/2" pipe.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

If I am going to run a lot of conduit using a Chicago bender I usually take a scrap piece, usually 3/4, and measure the length first and then bend a 90 degree on it. If you mark the pipe first at the back of the shoe by the time you are done and after a couple more calcs, you will have the travel length for a 90,, as well as for a 30 degree, you'll know the apparent GAIN of that bender for that size. The loss, I've found is about 3/16 of an inch per inch of offset on a 3/4 inch pipe for the smaller offsets. I like to cut and thread a straight piece of pipe and then bend it. The NO-DOG I use is a coupling welded to a piece of angle iron. If you use the no-dog and a level with the first "test piece", you will see if the shoe of the bender is not damaged and won't roll the pipe.


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

A Chicago bender is also great for segment bending. I wouldn't want to do it with a hand bender.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I have never been on the same job as a chicago bender, therefore I have not had the pleasure of learning to use one.


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