# Props to you residential dudes.



## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I've only done any residential work for a total of 3 days (2 of which are with the new boss).

All of which have been remodeling.

I already knew I wanted to avoid residential if I could, but seriously, I am in awe of you guys that choose to work this side of the trade.

Crawling in hot, stuffy, itchy attics.

Crawling under the dirty, mosquito infested houses.

IIIIIII can't stand it. :no:

Props to you guys, because I'm too much of a ***** to enjoy it.

Concrete and conduit are like a luxury to me now.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

glad to see you found a job


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Yeah, good for you! :thumbsup:

Welcome to the dark side. :laughing:
Actually I like doing commercial work a lot, it's just there is not much of it around here. Not being a large contractor also hold me back a bit from that too, but I do my share. 
I've done a lot with guys I've worked for in the past.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

There's good and bad to both. You work harder with your body in commercial work, I believe, and harder with your mind in residential work. You certainly need every trick in the book (and the accompanying tool) to do residential service, and not nearly as many tools and tricks for commercial. Just my observations from having done my fair share of each.

By the way, glad you found a job. Too bad it doesn't suit you.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

I have spent five years of doing one then five years doing the other and about six years of doing both together. Residential remodel is the most physically and mentally demanding IMO, there are those days of wrestling 600's or 4"rmc that make you hurt, but day to day the residential re modelers have the toughest job.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I thought it was overkill but, I was handed this 13 amp right angle drill "hole hawg" to drill the channels to run the cable through the joists in the attic.

While I'll admit that drilling was easy, carrying it was not.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

i used to use the regular "hole hawg" to rough in a house...those days are over...that drill is way too heavy!...i use the corded dewalt drill now..much lighter


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Ya'll residential guy's can have that wiring houses.


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

Frasbee said:


> I thought it was overkill but, I was handed this 13 amp right angle drill "hole hawg" to drill the channels to run the cable through the joists in the attic.
> 
> While I'll admit that drilling was easy, carrying it was not.


Ahhhem, that is a Super Hawg Greenie. :jester:

In all seriousness though, glad you found a job and let the drill do the work, you should never have to really "push it", and be very conscious of the torque and where your body parts are into relation of the direction the drill is gonna go if it gets pinned on something. I have witnessed both someone loosing teeth from the handle hitting them in the face as well as someone losing part of their calf muscle while drilling down right next to their leg. Not pretty.


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

william1978 said:


> Ya'll residential guy's can have that wiring houses.


I have done a ton of resi and a decent amount of commercial and I would have to say one doesn't necessarily outweigh the other in my world. It's pretty much 50/50 ups and downs to each. In times like these though I'll wire whatever they want, house, building, pigpen, outhouse, boathouse.......whatever.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

NolaTigaBait said:


> i used to use the regular "hole hawg" to rough in a house...those days are over...that drill is way too heavy!...i use the corded dewalt drill now..much lighter


 
One of these?











​It's like my American Express card.... I don't leave home without it.​


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

yeah, thats what i have been using...its too heavy for my 27 year old arms, so i use that dewalt, much lighter


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> but day to day the residential re modelers have the toughest job.



I certainly agree. If I could narrow down what I've done over the years it's 80% existing residential work, with the rest being commercial and a tiny bit of new residential. I'd say that existing residential is possibly the most mind bending of all the types of electrical work. I know that the industrial guys will probably disagree, but at lest in industrial you have a diagram to work with.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

NolaTigaBait said:


> yeah, thats what i have been using...its too heavy for my 27 year old arms, so i use that dewalt, much lighter


Krickey... wait until you're as old as me. And I still lug around a 1675 all day long.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

haha, well, i'm trying to save my body for the long run...seein as i'm not going to get rich doing this...i still have it and use it, but i prefer not to


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Krickey... wait until you're as old as me. And I still lug around a 1675 all day long.


 What is a 1675?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

william1978 said:


> What is a 1675?


Right after a 1674


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> Right after a 1674


 And right before 1676.:thumbup: I got it now.:laughing:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

william1978 said:


> What is a 1675?


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Thank you 480sparky now I know.


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

480sparky said:


> ​It's like my American Express card.... I don't leave home without it.​


I've never seen an electrician use one of these to drill a house. Everyone I see uses one of these with an 18" ship auger - http://www.milwaukeetool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_684300_192163_192137


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Mr. Sparkle said:


> Ahhhem, that is a Super Hawg Greenie. :jester:
> 
> In all seriousness though, glad you found a job and let the drill do the work, you should never have to really "push it", and be very conscious of the torque and where your body parts are into relation of the direction the drill is gonna go if it gets pinned on something. I have witnessed both someone loosing teeth from the handle hitting them in the face as well as someone losing part of their calf muscle while drilling down right next to their leg. Not pretty.


I'd done some quasi-residential before for about a month. I learned how to use the high torque drills there. And it's funny you mention the injury, because I recall a few times yesterday that I was about to begin drilling when I noticed my left leg was laying right beneath the sturdy twist-on handle.

Needless to say, I cautiously moved it out of the way.

I have to say, I had far fewer torque issues with that large drill than I ever did with the small wrist wrenching drills. I think the sharp bit, along with the sheer weight, along with the leverage available due to its' length made it much safer.

Hell, my 18 Volt bosch twisted my wrist a few times today.


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## Yillis (Apr 21, 2008)

We have three of these:










Work great.


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## oldschool (Aug 2, 2008)

this is what i prefer for resi work, athough not cordless, cant imagine that battery would do much.

no ladder needed, walk across the basement as you drill


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Haha, a basement in New Orleans wouldn't last very long.

That's a funky looking tool, though.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Yillis said:


> We have three of these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I really like this one, the last time I wired a house used one just like it.:thumbsup:


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## oldschool (Aug 2, 2008)

Frasbee said:


> Haha, a basement in New Orleans wouldn't last very long.
> 
> That's a funky looking tool, though.


yea i never thought of that, I dont think ive ever wired a house without a basement.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

JohnJ0906 said:


> I've never seen an electrician use one of these to drill a house. Everyone I see uses one of these with an 18" ship auger - http://www.milwaukeetool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_684300_192163_192137


Then you need to spend a day with me. Anything less than a 1675 is a little girls drill. I have no problems popping in a 7" hole saw and going to town.

Besides, those little girl drills won't last a day on some of my job sites.








http://code-elec.com/gallerylarge/3oh3/Cabin_Exterior_3.jpg


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## davis9 (Mar 21, 2009)

I use one of these, I do have one of those beasts previously mentioned, but it gets heavy after a while.

These have a clutch, I have drilled 10000+ 7/8" holes(don't forget the safety goggles) with the one in my truck without a problem.

Tom


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

The plumbers seem to be a little smarter and use the ones with the clutches. When I kill the hole hog, I'm either getting the super hog or the one the plumbers use, I think a black and decker, can't remember.

A lot of the commercial I do is as nasty as the residential remodeling. Nothing like a good tenant fitup thats been done a bunch of times over with incorrect panel labels etc. All in a days work...


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

Frasbee said:


> Haha, a basement in New Orleans wouldn't last very long.
> 
> That's a funky looking tool, though.


i wired a house off of Napolean Ave. that had a basement...weird


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## Yillis (Apr 21, 2008)

oldschool said:


> this is what i prefer for resi work, athough not cordless, cant imagine that battery would do much.
> 
> no ladder needed, walk across the basement as you drill












What is this!


Then again, how do I run my wires if I didn't bring my ladder in...


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Then you need to spend a day with me. Anything less than a 1675 is a little girls drill. I have no problems popping in a 7" hole saw and going to town.
> 
> Besides, those little girl drills won't last a day on some of my job sites.


I am not saying there aren't times I use one of those, but in a regular 2x4 framed house, I'll be pulling wire long before you are halfway drilling 1 floor. 
I've used both, I know what I like better.
To each their own. :thumbsup:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Yillis said:


> What is this!...


I call 'em 30-30s. 30° bend at 30". Yes, you still need a ladder to run the rope, but you can drill your holes standing fleet flat on the floor.

Mine isn't an entire tool, just an extension that fits on any drill.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I want to invent something like a stud punch that you can punch the web of TJI's from the floor.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

NolaTigaBait said:


> i wired a house off of Napolean Ave. that had a basement...weird


I've seen them, but they're just not that common.

I don't think this area floods like others.

I'd be dumbfounded if I saw a basement in the 9th ward.


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## oldschool (Aug 2, 2008)

no ladder for needed for drillin, just walk and drill... then out comes the ladder

this is the only drill i use for residential, eight years old with brushes replaced once.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Frasbee said:


> I'd be dumbfounded if I saw a basement in the 9th ward.


That would be an indoor swimming pool, would it not? :laughing:


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> There's good and bad to both. You work harder with your body in commercial work, I believe, and harder with your mind in residential work. You certainly need every trick in the book (and the accompanying tool) to do residential service, and not nearly as many tools and tricks for commercial. Just my observations from having done my fair share of each.
> 
> By the way, glad you found a job. Too bad it doesn't suit you.


I agree 100 percent. Ive done a pretty equal amount of resi, comm, and indus and I can truly say lugging 2" rigid up and down cat walks for a week at this chemical plant I worked at can truly put a strain on your back. 
One the same note I cant think of anything more boring than wiring 400 2x4's like in many commercial jobs I have been on.
For me, the key to happiness is a pleasant mix off all three.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

yes , it would....they shouldn't even rebuild the 9th ward...but don't get me started on that


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

Frasbee said:


> I've seen them, but they're just not that common.
> 
> I don't think this area floods like others.
> 
> I'd be dumbfounded if I saw a basement in the 9th ward.


It flooded enough...the service was in the basement, so when it flooded, it drowned the panel...I ended up moving it outside above sealevel:laughing:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> I want to invent something like a stud punch that you can punch the web of TJI's from the floor.


You're too late. I already have something.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

I was at a job a few days ago that had manufactured wood I beams. All I had to do was hit the little knockout and run my wire - it was pretty cool.

~Matt


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## Yillis (Apr 21, 2008)

TOOL_5150 said:


> I was at a job a few days ago that had manufactured wood I beams. All I had to do was hit the little knockout and run my wire - it was pretty cool.
> 
> ~Matt



That's the majority around here. The only other type is like V's, and those are even easier to run wire through.

What is normally there?


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Instant knockouts?!

That's sounds awesome!

(I also agree that the 9th shouldn't be rebuilt, but then where would they put all the non-working poor??)


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## chenley (Feb 20, 2007)

TOOL_5150 said:


> I was at a job a few days ago that had manufactured wood I beams. All I had to do was hit the little knockout and run my wire - it was pretty cool.
> 
> ~Matt


We're your knockouts in a pretty straight line? Last job I did I made one HR to the panel zigzagged knockouts, looked back and said "this ain't gonna cut it".


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

For the most part the knockouts are useless, aside from almost never lining up as stated above, wait until you get the batch that takes you longer to knockout the holes in than it does to drill it.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

I make my own holes with the claw of my hammer.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Yillis said:


> That's the majority around here. The only other type is like V's, and those are even easier to run wire through.
> 
> What is normally there?




Normally 4x6 beams. The holes lined up for the most part. I did have a few knockouts that really didnt want to come out.


~Matt


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## mg42 (Jan 27, 2009)

My boss is following the "be green" trend.

He got us these 










We are saving power and environmentally unfriendly batteries 
*
*


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

mg42 said:


> My boss is following the "be green" trend.
> 
> He got us these
> 
> ...


Wouldn't it make more sense to hand out candles?


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

Ha, I'll stick with the environmentally unfriendly batteries & I've even been labeled a treehugger by some....


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

i can't imagine roughing in a house with one of those....i knolw there were ike 6 circuits, but still...


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

I prefer to use this with a 18" ships auger bit. Sharp bit is all you need
Never been a fan of those hole hawgs.


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## Kletis (Jan 18, 2008)

480sparky said:


> I make my own holes with the claw of my hammer.


I have done this many times too. If you knock a hole with the claw of your hammer then hit the same spot with the front of the hammer, it leaves a relatively round hole and you can actually line them up. Usually I will just use the manufacture knock outs until one is too far off, and then I make my own hole to continue going straight.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Kletis said:


> I have done this many times too. If you knock a hole with the claw of your hammer then hit the same spot with the front of the hammer, it leaves a relatively round hole and you can actually line them up. Usually I will just use the manufacture knock outs until one is too far off, and then I make my own hole to continue going straight.


I don't bother with trying to make nice round neat holes. One whack with the claw of the hammer, then push the NM through.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

true, nec doesnt say the hole has to be round.

~Matt


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

manchestersparky said:


> I prefer to use this with a 18" ships auger bit. Sharp bit is all you need
> Never been a fan of those hole hawgs.


Thats what I use as well. my hole hog was stolen, along with my bosch hammerdrill and my gas powered cutoff saw - it was a bad day. I was unhappy to see the hole hog gone, but dont miss it. The 30 and 30 extension looks cool but I dont really *need* it... i sure do want it though.

~Matt


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## Kletis (Jan 18, 2008)

480sparky said:


> I don't bother with trying to make nice round neat holes. One whack with the claw of the hammer, then push the NM through.


Yeah, it probably isn't necessary but it's one of those things I got in the habit of doing! Looks a little cleaner. (not much....)


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Kletis said:


> ...Looks a little cleaner. (not much....)


....until the drywall goes up. After that, who cares what it looked like?


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## Kletis (Jan 18, 2008)

480sparky said:


> ....until the drywall goes up. After that, who cares what it looked like?


 
That's a good point.


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## Yillis (Apr 21, 2008)

Unless drywall isn't going up.


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## richrock1605 (Jul 10, 2008)

I love everything about residential service work. Every call is different and you are constantly using your brain. I can definitly see how most electricians don't like it but for me it's the side of the business that works.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Yillis said:


> Unless drywall isn't going up.


Then I ain't puttin' NM there.


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## richrock1605 (Jul 10, 2008)

480sparky said:


> One of these?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've been using one of those for about 10 years and swear by it.


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

Sparky,

Would you believe we failed a framing inspection because one of the guys I worked with was blowing out holes with his hammer? The building inspector made us pull the wire out so the builder could reinforce the TGI's with plywood on each side where he made claw holes, it was ridiculous & caused some pretty sh!tty attitudes on the job for a while......


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

480sparky said:


> One of these?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Anyone have the problem of the gear boxes blowing on these? When I worked for a guy he had two and the gears blew out of one and the other was not far behind. Also, pretty much every plumber I know has these and most have had this problem at least once. 


Great drill, but I like my SuperHawg and 30 MUCH better for roughing in.


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## davis9 (Mar 21, 2009)

I use that model Millwaukee in a small tugger the MAXIS 1000 beat the snot out of it and it keeps rocking. I got the bigger MAXIS tugger too, love that one too.

Tom


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

my plumber friend blew out 2 of em...mine is starting to show signs of wear as well....


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

480sparky said:


> One of these?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is the fastest drill on the market (1200 rpm) high speed and (300 rpm) low speed. I have twisted a few drill bits on low speed with that animal. It is great for drilling wooden "I" joists that are 12 " on center. Just put a stuby speed bore bit in the chuck and take off the handle. :thumbup:


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

Mr. Sparkle said:


> Sparky,
> 
> Would you believe we failed a framing inspection because one of the guys I worked with was blowing out holes with his hammer? The building inspector made us pull the wire out so the builder could reinforce the TGI's with plywood on each side where he made claw holes, it was ridiculous & caused some pretty sh!tty attitudes on the job for a while......


Any engineered framing members have rules as to where, and how large holes can be. I got nailed once long ago for drilling holes too close together.


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## Yillis (Apr 21, 2008)

Yeah, I've seen some have them printed directly on the wood, and some come with like little books stapled right to them, every ten or so.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Speedy Petey said:


> Anyone have the problem of the gear boxes blowing on these? When I worked for a guy he had two and the gears blew out of one and the other was not far behind. Also, pretty much every plumber I know has these and most have had this problem at least once......


I've had mine since '83 and have only had to replace the cord once. I guess it depends on whether you just use it or misuse and abuse it.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

TOOL_5150 said:


> true, nec doesnt say the hole has to be round.
> 
> ~Matt


also doesn't say that the holes need to be in a perfectly straight line either. I just use the claw of my hammer to knock out the perforated holes. Usually one whack and it comes out clean. I don't pay attention to or care if they are staggered. It really doesn't matter unless you are anal and can't sleep at night over it.


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Well pulling wire is definitely easier if the holes line up. 

I used to get so pissed when carpenters would stagger the holes, some top, some bottom. I'd say WTF. They'd say they had to so the crowns would be up. I said WHAT CROWNS??? They're I-beams!!


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Speedy Petey said:


> Well pulling wire is definitely easier if the holes line up.
> 
> I used to get so pissed when carpenters would stagger the holes, some top, some bottom. I'd say WTF. They'd say they had to so the crowns would be up. I said WHAT CROWNS??? They're I-beams!!


They're framers..... you think they care about the mechanical trades?

I personally think they go out of their way to put framing in the most obnoxious spots they can.

I can vizualize them going over the prints.... "Let's see... the main panel will go here. And the toilet and tub here. Now let's figure out the duct work....."

Thankfully, there's Milwaukee tools.


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

Wow, and he finds the Milwaukee emoticon.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I just got paid my first check from this guy yesterday.

I finally feel employed again.

And it turns out he has a new construction job coming up next week.


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## te12co2w (Jun 3, 2007)

Speedy Petey said:


> Anyone have the problem of the gear boxes blowing on these? When I worked for a guy he had two and the gears blew out of one and the other was not far behind. Also, pretty much every plumber I know has these and most have had this problem at least once.
> 
> 
> Great drill, but I like my SuperHawg and 30 MUCH better for roughing in.


I have one with gear problems. Still works but not great. Use it when I need a spare. It's over 20 years old I think. It looks it too. I have problems with the chucks not working smoothly more than any thing else. I've had to replace 5 or 6 of those. Seems like they cost $50-75 ea depending. I'd like to see the hole hawg come with the quick cord. I also have one of those 33 extensions. Milwaukee web site says you have to use those on a d handle drill only. I haven't tried it yet on the hole hawg. I can't use the d handle drill too much because of the twist factor. I've broken my working hand twice and torn tendons once. I can control the 1475 better because it doesn't twist my wrist.


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## KayJay (Jan 20, 2008)

steelersman said:


> also doesn't say that the holes need to be in a perfectly straight line either. I just use the claw of my hammer to knock out the perforated holes. Usually one whack and it comes out clean. I don't pay attention to or care if they are staggered. It really doesn't matter unless you are anal and can't sleep at night over it.


I'll sometimes do that as well to run a switch leg out to the middle of a room, but I won’t wire an entire building that way. I'll drill them out to line the holes up instead, as the additional waste of wire at the end of the day is tangible, especially when not that long ago 14/2 NM was going for like $50.00 per 250' coil around here.

On a similar note, I think there also seems to be some sort of industry wide misconception that you can’t drill a hole in a laminated support beam. 
You can if you do it correctly based on size and location of the hole in proportion to the size and surface area of the lam beam. 
I've been hearing that this is forbidden from builders on practically every job for probably twenty plus years now, but no builder has ever produced a written building code article or manufactures restriction preventing this or even had a building inspector back them up on it during a post wire structural inspection.
I try to avoid this and normally do it only as it a last resort, but at the same time, I won't waste large amounts of additional NM cable to go around a laminated support beam when I know I can safely and compliantly go through it.


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

> I think there also seems to be some sort of industry wide misconception that you can’t drill a hole in a laminated support beam.


I think the safe area is the middle 3rd, but don't quote me on that please.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

KayJay said:


> I'll sometimes do that as well to run a switch leg out to the middle of a room, but I won’t wire an entire building that way. I'll drill them out to line the holes up instead, as the additional waste of wire at the end of the day is tangible, especially when not that long ago 14/2 NM was going for like $50.00 per 250' coil around here.


Not sure how you get the idea that you are wasting or using extra NM just by simply zigzagging a few inches either direction. If you are the type who wants everything to be 90 degree turns instead of going diagonally across a room then that is wasting NM much more than a few out of alignment holes.


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## te12co2w (Jun 3, 2007)

KayJay said:


> On a similar note, I think there also seems to be some sort of industry wide misconception that you can’t drill a hole in a laminated support beam.
> 
> 
> I get that all the time too. When I ask if it is legal or not they just say " I don't care if it is or not, I don't want you to do it". Even if it is hidden from view.


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## te12co2w (Jun 3, 2007)

Mr. Sparkle said:


> For the most part the knockouts are useless, aside from almost never lining up as stated above, wait until you get the batch that takes you longer to knockout the holes in than it does to drill it.


 Sometimes they can be a bear to punch out.


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## KayJay (Jan 20, 2008)

steelersman said:


> Not sure how you get the idea that you are wasting or using extra NM just by simply zigzagging a few inches either direction. If you are the type who wants everything to be 90 degree turns instead of going diagonally across a room then that is wasting NM much more than a few out of alignment holes.


Wiring can also be run diagonally in straight lines too.
Unless you’re worried about upsetting the insulators because they have to split their batts at different lengths for each bay. 
Years ago, I actually had one try to coach me on how to run my wiring in ways that were more convenient for them, while he was there doing up an estimate for the builder. :laughing: No wait, make that a double :laughing: :laughing:


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Mr. Sparkle said:


> I think the safe area is the middle 3rd, but don't quote me on that please.


Center 3rd in length, and center 3rd in height. Also your holes need to be twice the distance apart as your hole size is. For example if you're drilling a 1'' hole, your next hole needs to be 2'' away from the first one. 

This info is from a fax straight from the manufacturer.


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## iaov (Apr 14, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> There's good and bad to both. You work harder with your body in commercial work, I believe, and harder with your mind in residential work. You certainly need every trick in the book (and the accompanying tool) to do residential service, and not nearly as many tools and tricks for commercial. Just my observations from having done my fair share of each.
> 
> By the way, glad you found a job. Too bad it doesn't suit you.


One of the things I realy like about resi work is all the tools and tricks. I enjoyed my years as an industrial trician where many days the only tools I needed were my tweeker and a lap top, but doing residential is fun and different almost every day.


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## iaov (Apr 14, 2008)

manchestersparky said:


> I prefer to use this with a 18" ships auger bit. Sharp bit is all you need
> Never been a fan of those hole hawgs.


This and some good Lennox bits!!


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

iaov said:


> This and some good Lennox bits!!


Sharp ones, too! _ Always_ keep 'em sharp!


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## iaov (Apr 14, 2008)

Yes indeed. I had a carpenter watch me drill some holes with a Lennox bit last week and he couldn't believe how fast they went through the studs.


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

NolaTigaBait said:


> i wired a house off of Napolean Ave. that had a basement...weird


on napolean? they have a three inch pump for a sump pump?


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I know as a 22 year old I should be nimble and all, but getting under that house and moving around in the attic is already starting to take a toll on my knee and lower back.

I can't wait to finish those home runs.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

nolabama said:


> on napolean? they have a three inch pump for a sump pump?


it was actually right off of Napoleon on Loyola...and yes, it had a sump pump...i think a couple houses in that area have basements-not sure why though


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

Frasbee said:


> I know as a 22 year old I should be nimble and all, but getting under that house and moving around in the attic is already starting to take a toll on my knee and lower back.
> 
> I can't wait to finish those home runs.


i wear knee pads when i'm in the attic and sometimes under the house...get some they really save your knees..as far as the back, yeah that hurts everyday


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## Tiger (Jan 3, 2008)

iaov said:


> One of the things I realy like about resi work is all the tools and tricks. I enjoyed my years as an industrial trician where many days the only tools I needed were my tweeker and a lap top, but doing residential is fun and different almost every day.


I enjoy residential also. I used to wire machines in a factory. It was really boring. Now I do something different most days. I like the challenge of fishing wires without doing damage AND opening walls completely for a conduit rewire.


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## Sparkyprentice (Oct 24, 2008)

The TJIs/engineered beams really annoy me for all of the reasons already posted, but luckily, at least on the westside of WA, the price of dimensional lumber is low enough again that we're seeing more of it used again instead of the TJIs. With a sharp/maintained auger bit, I can make a clean path for the rope faster than doing the knockout/drillout routine that I was doing before with the TJIs. The code may not call for straight lines, but the boss does, so that's how it goes in, otherwise the zig-zagged knockout routine would probably be faster, but not by much after considering moving the ladder around so much more, etc.,.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

I would pull circles around you using my hammerclaw while you waste time drilling. And I don't need to move my ladder around. Actually would be moving it less than you.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

steelersman said:


> I would pull circles around you using my hammerclaw while you waste time drilling. And I don't need to move my ladder around. Actually would be moving it less than you.


If you want to run your wires in circles, go right ahead. I prefer to run my wires through holes made in a straight line. :laughing: I find it useful to move my ladder when the next joist is too far to reach in order to put a hole in it. And with a hammerclaw as well.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> If you want to run your wires in circles, go right ahead. I prefer to run my wires through holes made in a straight line. :laughing: I find it useful to move my ladder when the next joist is too far to reach in order to put a hole in it. And with a hammerclaw as well.


Yeah yeah yeah. I hear ya. I'm just saying, it's faster to use hammerclaw than a drill. And it requires less ladder moving as well.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I don't understand this hammer claw thing, how the hell do you get a good hole using the claw of your hammer?


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Frasbee said:


> I don't understand this hammer claw thing, how the hell do you get a good hole using the claw of your hammer?


you use your claw of your hammer to bust out the prefabbed punchout. If you use the head of the hammer it us much harder to do. Or sometimes I use the claw and make my own hole if the closest prefabbed one is too far away for my liking.

Oh yeah, also your claw has to be the kind that isn't too curved. I believe the klein electricians hammerclaw is too curved and this would not work. You need to be able to hit the wood sraight with the end of the claw. A slight or average curved hammer works well for this.


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## electricista (Jan 11, 2009)

Here is the tool- no ladders to move. I would be lost without it.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

I hate the TJI's but they are what they are. I use the claw of the hammer as previously described but I also use a cordless drill with 1" Irwin speed-bits. A long auger bit (like a Greenlee naileater) just keeps going and going after the hole is made and increases the likelyhood of hitting an air duct or worse a plumbing pipe in the next bay. But the biggest PITA is finding a good spot to drive a staple for the romex in an engineered wooden I-beam.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> But the biggest PITA is finding a good spot to drive a staple for the romex in an engineered wooden I-beam.


At first it can be difficult, but after getting used to it it shouldn't be a problem. Just be careful not to puncture any possible cables on the other side of the joist since it's only a half inch thick or so the staples usually poke out the other side.


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## Teaspoon (Jan 10, 2009)

manchestersparky said:


> I prefer to use this with a 18" ships auger bit. Sharp bit is all you need
> Never been a fan of those hole hawgs.


 This is what I use also I like it better than the hole hog, A little slower but gets the job done. I use the greenlee nail eater bits.


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## electrictim510 (Sep 9, 2008)

My biggest gripe on residential is not the pain in the butt crawlspaces as you would think. It is the pain in the butt customers you have to deal with sometimes. I mean the commercial clients can haggle a bunch on the price but most homeowners are so picky on how things will look, and ask so many questions. I mainly do service work anymore, so that is my viewpoint. All in all thought I do prefer resi service work though.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

electrictim510 said:


> but most homeowners are so picky on how things will look, and ask so many questions. .


Uh, yeah. It's their house, isn't it?


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## MF Dagger (Dec 24, 2007)

I'd much rather have them be picky ahead of time and figure out what they want then have it not be what they want after it's installed.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

MF Dagger said:


> I'd much rather have them be picky ahead of time and figure out what they want then have it not be what they want after it's installed.


That is somewhat demoralizing, but I've certainly had my share of customers who have paid me more than a few times to redo what I thought was some of my finest work. To put it plainly, some people simply don't know what they want until they see it. Even some people who seem to know what they want, don't want that at all after they see it. Hey, as long as they're paying I can redo it from now until eternity.


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## electrictim510 (Sep 9, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> Uh, yeah. It's their house, isn't it?


Well yes it is, but it does not make me like the occasional major hassle because of it. :laughing:


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> That is somewhat demoralizing, but I've certainly had my share of customers who have paid me more than a few times to redo what I thought was some of my finest work. To put it plainly, some people simply don't know what they want until they see it. Even some people who seem to know what they want, don't want that at all after they see it. Hey, as long as they're paying I can redo it from now until eternity.


 
Some people just can't visualize things in their head. They have to actually see it.


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

JohnJ0906 said:


> Some people just can't visualize things in their head. They have to actually see it.


Ever have to move the living room around for the wife? Same thing.."lets try the china hutch over on that wall".


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

drsparky said:


> Ever have to move the living room around for the wife? Same thing.."lets try the china hutch over on that wall".


I know about this all too well. But my wife will actually move **** around herself when she gets tired of me putting it off. I'll come home and get all confused. I don't like alot of change.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

steelersman said:


> I don't like alot of change.


I do. They add up to lots of dollars. :laughing:


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I do. They add up to lots of dollars. :laughing:


I still don't like alot of change. Even that kind of change. I do like a lot of (coins) change though.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I do. They add up to lots of dollars. :laughing:


Hey Dennis, is it slow over at MH's or something? Is that why you're on here today? I haven't heard form you in quite a while.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

steelersman said:


> Hey Dennis, is it slow over at MH's or something? Is that why you're on here today? I haven't heard form you in quite a while.


Multi-tasking. It always gets slow at either place from time to time. MH'S usually has more posts than anywhere else but I just jump back and forth. I know Ken does the same as well as some others.


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## MF Dagger (Dec 24, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> That is somewhat demoralizing, but I've certainly had my share of customers who have paid me more than a few times to redo what I thought was some of my finest work. To put it plainly, some people simply don't know what they want until they see it. Even some people who seem to know what they want, don't want that at all after they see it. Hey, as long as they're paying I can redo it from now until eternity.


The other way round happens quite often to me as well, especially with can light placement. What i think looks ugly as sin is exactly what they've always dreamed of. I instantly think of one that the ceiling looked like swiss cheese with all the cans in it. Sometimes less is more.


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

manchestersparky said:


> I prefer to use this with a 18" ships auger bit. Sharp bit is all you need
> Never been a fan of those hole hawgs.


My Father gave me one of these, it's the same thing only much older than the one in the picture. I figure it will be great for tight places.

Why do you use an 18" bit with it? If you're going with a bit that long, why not just use a normal drill? Isn't this right angle drill just for getting into tight places, or is there something that I'm missing? Thanks!


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

A NORMAL Drill ?
Gee what is a normal drill ? I would think it would be one that you insert a bit into and squeeze the trigger and the bit turns. Seems like the one pictured is a normal drill.:laughing:

Seriously now - I use different lengths of bits. I prefer the 18" greenlee nail biters because of the length. I can drill out the top plates without a ladder.
(I am not the tallest of fellows)
I do have some quite short ones for those tight spots also.
I"ve always used a right angle so it just seems right. I can also hang onto it better when the bit locks up.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

manchestersparky said:


> A NORMAL Drill ?
> Gee what is a normal drill ? I would think it would be one that you insert a bit into and squeeze the trigger and the bit turns. Seems like the one pictured is a normal drill.:laughing:
> 
> Seriously now - I use different lengths of bits. I prefer the 18" greenlee nail biters because of the length. I can drill out the top plates without a ladder.
> ...


I would definitely consider it a waste using this right angle drill with an 18" bit drilling out a top plate! Talk about being contorting your body and looking like Gumby! You could easily accomplish this with a hole shooter or whaterver the normal drill is called, Hole Hawg or whatever. I've only seen plumbers use these right angle drills. It's not important enough for "house ropers" as some like to call them. A hole shooter is the only drill a "house roper" truly needs. Now if your goal is too drill the most precise hole humanly possible then by all means knock yourself out with this "time waster" as I would coin it.


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

steelersman said:


> I would definitely consider it a waste using this right angle drill with an 18" bit drilling out a top plate! Talk about being contorting your body and looking like Gumby! You could easily accomplish this with a hole shooter or whaterver the normal drill is called, Hole Hawg or whatever. I've only seen plumbers use these right angle drills. It's not important enough for "house ropers" as some like to call them. A hole shooter is the only drill a "house roper" truly needs. Now if your goal is too drill the most precise hole humanly possible then by all means knock yourself out with this "time waster" as I would coin it.



First off, it aint a time waster. I can drill a house out with it just as fast as someone with a ''holeshooter''. I normally don't use an 18'' bit, but a 6'' which will fit in really tight spaces. Also, a right angle gives you more leverage and control, which is important when you hang the drill up. I've seen many a person almost break their wrists when a holeshooter hangs. Personally, I use a DeWalt right angle which has a little faster RPM than the Milwaukee. Plus, I don't ever get ''contorted'' using a right angle. Try drilling a 2 1/4'' hole with a holeshooter and not have it spin out of your hands.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

480sparky said:


>


 
Looks like pain and suffering to me. I have seen the body damage and death that drill can cause.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

I've never once seen an electrician use any other drill than a HoleHawg or DeWalt Timerbwolf to rough a house (in my area, of course.) To use a Hole Shooter (1/2" pistol grip drill I'm assuming) would be laughable to push a 7/8" auger bit. 

But hey, to each their own. I guess everyone has different ideas of they like to do things.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

randomkiller said:


> Looks like pain and suffering to me. I have seen the body damage and death that drill can cause.


I think that one is the hole hawg right? Well that's not the one that I use. I think what I'm talking about is called a hole shooter.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

randomkiller said:


> Looks like pain and suffering to me. I have seen the body damage and death that drill can cause.


Yup, a Hole Hawg can be very dangerous. You sure have to use your noggin when you're using one.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Kevin J said:


> Try drilling a 2 1/4'' hole with a holeshooter and not have it spin out of your hands.


why would you need to drill a hole of that size through multiple studs? Through a bandboard yes but not multiple studs.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

randomkiller said:


> Looks like pain and suffering to me. I have seen the body damage and death that drill can cause.


Obviously to someone who doesn't pay attention.



steelersman said:


> why would you need to drill a hole of that size through multiple studs? Through a bandboard yes but not multiple studs.


You never have to drill under windows?


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> You never have to drill under windows?


 
Yes of course, but a 2 and a quarter inch hole. Never.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Peter D said:


> I've never once seen an electrician use any other drill than a HoleHawg or DeWalt Timerbwolf to rough a house (in my area, of course.) To use a Hole Shooter (1/2" pistol grip drill I'm assuming) would be laughable to push a 7/8" auger bit.
> 
> But hey, to each their own. I guess everyone has different ideas of they like to do things.


yes a pistil grip or I gues otherwise known as a hle shooter is what I've always used. And I don't see why you would find it laughable. It's the most common (in fact the only drill I've seen any electricians use) drill used, at least around here.


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Obviously to someone who doesn't pay attention.
> 
> 
> 
> You never have to drill under windows?



When home is multi-level, I try to put in future pipes to get from basement to attic. Sometimes, I even drill 2 9/16" to get a 2'' pipe in there.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Kevin J said:


> When home is multi-level, I try to put in future pipes to get from basement to attic. Sometimes, I even drill 2 9/16" to get a 2'' pipe in there.


You charge extra for this?


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

steelersman said:


> yes a postil grip or I gues otherwise known as a hle shooter is what I've always used. And I don't see why you would find it laughable. It's the most common (in fact the only drill I've seen any electricians use) drill used, at least around here.


I've never heard of a postil grip drill. Can you provide a link to one?


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Kevin J said:


> When home is multi-level, I try to put in future pipes to get from basement to attic. Sometimes, I even drill 2 9/16" to get a 2'' pipe in there.


Even with that being said I would still have no problem using a hole shooter for this. I have a large drill bit (I think it's a 2 and a half inch bit ) for this, although it's not an auger bit, but it's the milwuakee bit that resembles a hole saw but it's not a hole saw. Not sure what it's called. I use it when I need to drill through the bandboard to bring in the service cable.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Peter D said:


> I've never heard of a postil grip drill. Can you provide a link to one?


 
"Pistol Grip" drills are the common-mans drill.












steelersman said:


> ......... Not sure what it's called. I use it when I need to drill through the bandboard to bring in the service cable.


 
Self-feed bit?


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Peter D said:


> I've never heard of a postil grip drill. Can you provide a link to one?


Sorry Peter. I mis-typed. You should find the error corrected now.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> "Pistol Grip" drills are the common-mans drill.


Sorry, that was sarcasm/humor. My bad.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> "Pistol Grip" drills are the common-mans drill.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


True, although that one is not meaty or manly enough in my opinion. The most common one is the Milwaukee that has the D shaped handle on the back to grab onto.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> "Pistol Grip" drills are the common-mans drill.


Sorry, that was sarcasm/humor. I'm well aware of what a postil grip drill is. My bad.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Yeah that's the bit that I have. I love that bit.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

steelersman said:


> The most common one is the Milwaukee that has the D shaped handle on the back to grab onto.


Ah yes, I see those all the time. The plasterers and tapers use them to mix their compound.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

steelersman said:


> Yeah that's the bit that I have. I love that bit.


I have several of them of various sizes in the drill case. 1" - 3", mostly.


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Obviously to someone who doesn't pay attention.
> 
> 
> 
> You never have to drill under windows?





steelersman said:


> You charge extra for this?



Yeah, and most HO jump at the opportunity to have them in their home. Plus, since I get a lot of follow-up work from my customers, it can make my job a whole lot easier sometimes.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Peter D said:


> Ah yes, I see those all the time. The plasterers and tapers use them to mix their compound.


Yes, that one.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Peter D said:


> Ah yes, I see those all the time. The plasterers and tapers use them to mix their compound.


 
These:


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> These:


Yeah, kinda, but that one looks extremely gay though.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

steelersman said:


> Yeah, kinda, but that one looks extremely gay though.


Sorry, it was the first image that came up in a Google search.

Is this more Macho for you?


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> Sorry, it was the first image that came up in a Google search.
> 
> Is this more Macho for you?


getting closer. Still not the identical drill. but close. We don't use that handle though. Just the D shaped one on the back.


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Sorry, it was the first image that came up in a Google search.
> 
> Is this more Macho for you?



Still looks like it should have a mixing paddle in it though.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

steelersman said:


> getting closer. Still not the identical drill. but close. We don't use that handle though. Just the D shaped one on the back.


It is D-shaped.. the photo shows the edge of it.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> It is D-shaped.. the photo shows the edge of it.


Yes I know that, but I'm just saying this drill must be the newer version of the same model that I'm accustomed to. This newer one, the body doesn't look the same. It's not a streamlined as the older version. Thats all. I'm jsut saying that if I was going for looks or taking my drill down a modeling runway I'd win hands down.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Kevin J said:


> Still looks like it should have a mixing paddle in it though.


 
Why is an electrician worried about a paint mixing paddle?





















OK, if you insist:


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Kevin J said:


> Still looks like it should have a mixing paddle in it though.


Nope. Looks like it should have an 18" auger in it.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

steelersman said:


> Nope. Looks like it should have an 18" auger in it.


We can agree to disagree on this one, but that drill might have been common among electricians decades ago before the right angle drill came along. The lack of leverage is the major weakness of the "hole shooter."


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Peter D said:


> We can agree to disagree on this one, but that drill might have been common among electricians decades ago before the right angle drill came along. The lack of leverage is the major weakness of the "hole shooter."


You're not going to catch me using one. Nice wrist breaker. At least hard on the wrists.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

steelersman said:


> Nope. Looks like it should have an 18" auger in it.


 
Dam, you guys are hard to please! :laughing:


----------



## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Peter D said:


> We can agree to disagree on this one, but that drill might have been common among electricians decades ago before the right angle drill came along. The lack of leverage is the major weakness of the "hole shooter."


my wrists have never been injured using it. Also this thing isn't ancient. Right angle drills were definitely around 15 years ago when I started. I can remember seeing plumbers using them.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> Dam, you guys are hard to please! :laughing:


There ya go!!


----------



## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> You're not going to catch me using one. Nice wrist breaker. At least hard on the wrists.


Yeah, I'd say the old fashioned D-handle is even more dangerous than the Hole Hawg. The D-handle right angle is probably the easiest and safest to use.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Peter D said:


> Yeah, I'd say the old fashioned D-handle is even more dangerous than the Hole Hawg. The D-handle right angle is probably the easiest and safest to use.


Ok so in summary: The pistol grip D handle drill may not be as easy as the right angle drill on those who have dainty wrists. Use caution if you have a dainty wrist then. They should put that sticker on the pistol grip drill.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

steelersman said:


> Ok so in summary: The pistol grip D handle drill may not be as easy as the right angle drill on those who have dainty wrists. Use caution if you have a dainty wrist then. They should put that sticker on the pistol grip drill.


How about: stop living in the 1950's and get a proper drill. Work smarter, not harder.


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Peter D said:


> How about: stop living in the 1950's and get a proper drill. Work smarter, not harder.


Peter. I wasn't even born anywhere near that time frame. it was and still is a very commonly used drill. Get over it. Most people have no issues with their dainty little wrists getting twisted. Besides I am working smarter and easier not harder when I use this drill that I speak of. It would take alot longer to drill out a house with a goofy looking plumber's drill. Right angle drills are for plumbers so I'm using the proper tool for the proper job in this case.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

steelersman said:


> Get over it.


Aye aye, Captain Sir. Have fun with your 1950's D Handle. I'm outta here.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Never really heard of an electrician preferring to use a straight drill until just now. Glad it's working out for you, but I very much prefer the D-handle right angle drill. I've used them both, and I'll take the right angle drill any day. Easy decision for me.


----------



## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I'd love to watch a bunch of veteran electricians try to work on a jobsite with each other.

You'd all argue so much about how to do things, nothing would ever get done. :laughing:


----------



## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

Frasbee said:


> I'd love to watch a bunch of veteran electricians try to work on a jobsite with each other.
> 
> You'd all argue so much about how to do things, nothing would ever get done. :laughing:


 
Maybe so but one thing for sure is that we will swap tricks and tip to how to move our ase in more smoother format.


Speaking of D handled tools I was staying in France and we used simair tools over there just about the same as you North Americans crews been using for long time.

As I got back from France my first resdentil house for the year is one is very instering hole boring time due the exteral walls are stacked soild of wood there is no stud cavities at all :blink::whistling2:

slove that issue run with combation of hole saw and electric chainsaw will slove that issue {one wall is 12 inch soild timber wall the other wall have 2X6 even 3X6 stacked horzontally up and well nailed so strong }

Merci,Marc 

Merci,Marc


----------



## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

Yea, this puppy will rip your arm from it's socket and toss it into the next county. 



randomkiller said:


> Looks like pain and suffering to me. I have seen the body damage and death that drill can cause.


----------



## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

Frasbee said:


> I'd love to watch a bunch of veteran electricians try to work on a jobsite with each other.
> 
> You'd all argue so much about how to do things, nothing would ever get done. :laughing:


And the problem would be what?


----------



## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

steelersman said:


> I would definitely consider it a waste using this right angle drill with an 18" bit drilling out a top plate! Talk about being contorting your body and looking like Gumby! You could easily accomplish this with a hole shooter or whaterver the normal drill is called, Hole Hawg or whatever. I've only seen plumbers use these right angle drills. It's not important enough for "house ropers" as some like to call them. A hole shooter is the only drill a "house roper" truly needs. Now if your goal is too drill the most precise hole humanly possible then by all means knock yourself out with this "time waster" as I would coin it.


Back in the '80's I had one occasion to use a right angle drill while roping, some funky very 80's-looking houses had double 2 x 16's spanning about 18' on 12" centers, and the ductwork was going to intefere with the homeruns if they werent at least 12" up.


----------



## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

LawnGuyLandSparky said:


> And the problem would be what?


F*ck, I only have a problem with it when _I'm_ the one doing the work.

I had 2 electricians trying to teach me how to do the same thing different ways.

One would set me to the task, 5 minutes later, the other would come by and ask why I was doin' it that way, then tell me to do it _his_ way, and then the other would come back to check up on me and tell me I didn't listen to him and did it "wrong". :cursing:


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## steelersman (Mar 15, 2009)

Frasbee said:


> F*ck, I only have a problem with it when _I'm_ the one doing the work.
> 
> I had 2 electricians trying to teach me how to do the same thing different ways.
> 
> One would set me to the task, 5 minutes later, the other would come by and ask why I was doin' it that way, then tell me to do it _his_ way, and then the other would come back to check up on me and tell me I didn't listen to him and did it "wrong". :cursing:


Sounds like you need to find a new trade!


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

Frasbee said:


> F*ck, I only have a problem with it when _I'm_ the one doing the work.
> 
> I had 2 electricians trying to teach me how to do the same thing different ways.
> 
> One would set me to the task, 5 minutes later, the other would come by and ask why I was doin' it that way, then tell me to do it _his_ way, and then the other would come back to check up on me and tell me I didn't listen to him and did it "wrong". :cursing:


Always remember there's more than one way to skin a cat. There's a difference between wrong and different. "What's wrong with the way so and so told me?"


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## davis9 (Mar 21, 2009)

I use this one and it spins a 18" auger bit NO problem, it has a built in clutch. I use it regularly for 2 9/16" holes as well. I have a Hole hawg for the really messy stuff(big holes) and I also use the hole hawg for my MAxxis 1000 puller. I've had my current Rigid drill for 5yrs, the last one walked off a job at lunch time.

Tom


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

davis9 said:


> I use this one and it spins a 18" auger bit NO problem, it has a built in clutch. I use it regularly for 2 9/16" holes as well. I have a Hole hawg for the really messy stuff(big holes) and I also use the hole hawg for my MAxxis 1000 puller. I've had my current Rigid drill for 5yrs, the last one walked off a job at lunch time.
> 
> Tom



Had one just like it for use at home. Sheared the chuck right off drilling with a 1/2" metal bit into frame of a tractor. I threw the SOB in the trash,drove to the shop and got the battery drill to finish the job.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Kevin J said:


> Had one just like it for use at home. Sheared the chuck right off drilling with a 1/2" metal bit into frame of a tractor. I threw the SOB in the trash,drove to the shop and got the battery drill to finish the job.


I didn't even know tractors had frames. I've owned tractors in the past, and own a backhoe now. None of them have or had frames. Everything is hung off the engine and transmission. What sort of tractor are you dealing with?


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> I didn't even know tractors had frames. I've owned tractors in the past, and own a backhoe now. None of them have or had frames. Everything is hung off the engine and transmission. What sort of tractor are you dealing with?


Sorry, should of given more info. Front axle crossmember on a 39 Ford 9N. Was putting new grille guard on after fresh paint.


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## davis9 (Mar 21, 2009)

Kevin J said:


> Had one just like it for use at home. Sheared the chuck right off drilling with a 1/2" metal bit into frame of a tractor. I threw the SOB in the trash,drove to the shop and got the battery drill to finish the job.



Sorry you feel that way, I got 10000+ holes with mine, you should have brought it back and got another.:thumbup:

Tom

BTW you need to work your way up to a 1/2 hole in steel.:whistling2:


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

davis9 said:


> Sorry you feel that way, I got 10000+ holes with mine, you should have brought it back and got another.:thumbup:
> 
> Tom
> 
> BTW you need to work your way up to a 1/2 hole in steel.:whistling2:




Apprenticed in a blacksmith shop right out of high school. Trust me, I was made to drill a lot of holes. I got pretty intimate with a Milwaukee Magnum hole shooter. Never was told and never did "work up" to a 1/2" hole in steel. The only thing we predrilled was cast iron. :whistling2:


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Kevin J said:


> I got pretty intimate with a Milwaukee Magnum hole shooter.


  How did this work out.:laughing:


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

william1978 said:


> How did this work out.:laughing:


Not tooo gooooood!!!!


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Kevin J said:


> Not tooo gooooood!!!!


 :laughing::laughing:


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

ive done more resedintial than commercial and they seem 50/50 to me too. my first day was like yours.he are some things that might help..i wear one set of tools when i rough lighter and more sized to fit only rough things,and regular set of tools for trims and service work,,i use a standard hole hogg and i use a bit extension so i dont have to drag around a ladder to drill the top plate ,it also seems to help keep me from tryn to push on the drill when i drill out the walls cause of its lenght.i wear painters stilts to hang bedroom fans, cans and in any rooms i can as well as pull the switch legs.when you tie in cans run jumper that follow joyces then make the across joyce jumpers at one end or the other,,if you tie them in in a loup you have to cross the joyces 2x and thats just harder work


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