# Terminating Green (health) MC cable



## JHFWIC (Mar 22, 2012)

I always cut it off after you land it in the box.


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## tates1882 (Sep 3, 2010)

TTW said:


> What is the proper way to terminate health grade MC, the green stuff?
> 
> Do you use the aluminum grounding wire to bond to the ground screw of a box, and if so would you also attach it to the insulated ground conductor?
> 
> ...


you dont do anything thing with the bonding strip, cut it flush with the armor. You need to make sure the fitting are ground rated fyi


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## Fibes (Feb 18, 2010)

tates1882 said:


> you dont do anything thing with the bonding strip, cut it flush with the armor.


Exactly.


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## spark-ski (Jun 8, 2014)

I've been told to cut it flush sometimes, other times inspectors want to see it wrapped around the cable armor a few times before it is inserted into the connector


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

look at the manufacturer name on the cable, then look it up on the internet.


example:

http://www.southwire.com/commercial/MCAPandHCFMCAP.htm

the installation instructions are linked on the page


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## theJcK (Aug 7, 2013)

spark-ski said:


> I've been told to cut it flush sometimes, other times inspectors want to see it wrapped around the cable armor a few times before it is inserted into the connector


always done it that way myself. follow ridges and twist back up.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

The instructions that come with it will tell you to cut it flush. But we always wrapped it back around the jacket 2 or 3 times and then cut it.


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## TTW (Sep 14, 2012)

Great information everyone, thanks!


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

spark-ski said:


> I've been told to cut it flush sometimes, other times inspectors want to see it wrapped around the cable armor a few times before it is inserted into the connector


When the inspector bends over to look for it, kick him in the butt.
It gets cut off! It only has to do with and is part of the jacket. It you want, save the inspector a small bundle of them twisted into a sculpture of Atlas holding up the world or something, if you bring it into the box, you have to go home.


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## yamatitan (Sep 4, 2010)

theJcK said:


> always done it that way myself. follow ridges and twist back up.


I wrap it back on the cable a few inches myself.


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## Joefixit2 (Nov 16, 2007)

I had an inspector tell me to leave some of it showing, otherwise how does he know we didn't just use regular MC and painted it green to save money? I thought he was joking, but he was not. At that point I knew any further discussion with him would be pointless.


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

Cut it flush. Sometimes I bend back a half inch. I never wrap
It around the outside of the jacket like I would for BX. 

Make sure you use the listed connectors. Usually listed MCIA. I don't think they make a listed connector that has a locknut. Everything about the connector is spring tension. Locknuts and screws can loosen and loose the armor ground. That also goes for the regular Mc-AP type cable that does not have the redundant insulated ground.


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## Mike500s (Feb 20, 2014)

Bend it back and snip it. It's a bond not a ground.


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## Awg-Dawg (Jan 23, 2007)

cabletie said:


> Make sure you use the listed connectors. Usually listed MCIA. I don't think they make a listed connector that has a locknut.


 
Most of the connectors I use are locknut type and they are listed for Armored cable.

The type you are referring to have the built in anti short bushing.

That's the only difference I am aware of.


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## jeromjenkins (Dec 26, 2013)

We use the snap in connectors. I asked cause snapping in the cable with the binding wire bent back is a pain. Almost feel like it is forced. Making me think this doesn't feel right. I was told to do it cause inspectors like to see it. It seems inefficient, and want to know the difference between what is required and someone's personal preference.


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## Roger (Jul 7, 2007)

jeromjenkins said:


> I was told to do it cause inspectors like to see it. It seems inefficient, and want to know the difference between what is required and someone's personal preference.


Did you go to the links I gave you in your other thread? The links will specifically show what is required.

Roger


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

Awg-Dawg said:


> Most of the connectors I use are locknut type and they are listed for Armored cable.
> 
> The type you are referring to have the built in anti short bushing.
> 
> That's the only difference I am aware of.


We used a lot of the MC-AP on one project. The whole job was spec'ed to use hospital grade MC-AP whether it was required by code or not. we were buying it in barrels with the barrel carts instead of the old style MC carts.
they had a Rep come out and video tape the ease of using it in barrels. All the THHN came in barrels also, three hots and three neutrals in a barrel. the most we had were three barrels of #10 in a pull. You can order any combination and length you want.

The Rep was the one who told us about the spring being required. but he was wrong like you are pointing out. 

I recently looked at a bunch of different boxes of connectors, and most were rated for use with the All purpose (AP) wire. Every one with locknuts were listed, but some with a spring were not. Even the old work boxes with a clamp were listed, which I was told was a big no no. We had to use old work boxes with 1/2" ko's (for add/move/changes) so we could use the spring style push in connectors.

Well the Rep (and now me) were wrong, but at least he threw in a barrel cart, and a flat cart for the coil packs, for free!


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

jeromjenkins said:


> We use the snap in connectors. I asked cause snapping in the cable with the binding wire bent back is a pain. quote]
> 
> The snap-in connectors that I noticed that are rated for the wire, have a screw to loosen a single spring. I would say loosen the spring temporarily or cut the wire flush.
> 
> The snap in connectors that have three pointed springs, that like to dig into the insulation, were not listed for AP wire.


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