# Mounting spa pack on siding



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

what's it ...a Wayne Homes house?

Put some posts in the ground with treated wood
and mount the box to that.

The Styrofoam isn't gonna hold anything for very long


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

Use one or two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Alcoa-Home-Exteriors-METER-PW/dp/B000DZBGEG


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

lighterup said:


> what's it ...a Wayne Homes house?
> 
> Put some posts in the ground with treated wood
> and mount the box to that.
> ...



Haha it's an old cottage turned house. Pretty beat up. There is wood behind the styrofoam so I was thinking to mount another piece of wood and sangwich the foam.


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

lighterup said:


> what's it ...a Wayne Homes house?
> 
> Put some posts in the ground with treated wood
> and mount the box to that.
> ...


Holds in the heat and cooling. :devil3:


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

NDC said:


> Haha it's an old cottage turned house. Pretty beat up. There is wood behind the styrofoam so I was thinking to mount another piece of wood and sangwich the foam.


Oh...well if there's wood backing behind there , mount that sucker up against the siding
Done.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

Long screws to reach the wood.


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

Screw a piece of PT plywood to it. Mount pack to plywood.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I screw meters, ATS's, and everything else right to the siding. Never had an issue.

The only exception is Arlington siding blocks for lights because they have the box built in.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

NDC said:


> I have to mount a spa pack to some vinyl siding. Was thinking of cutting the siding the size of the spa panel and mounting a piece of plywood behind it. Currently there is Styrofoam behind it. Finish it with caulking.
> 
> How do you guys normally mount boxes etc to siding? Do you just install directly on top of it?


A spa pac is the heater and control module. You may be talking about the required disconnect. Just use an Arlington vinyl backing block.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

flyboy said:


> Use one or two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Alcoa-Home-Exteriors-METER-PW/dp/B000DZBGEG
> 
> View attachment 128814


No, I demand that you stop using these.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> A spa pac is the heater and control module. You may be talking about the required disconnect. Just use an Arlington vinyl backing block.


Up here they call the disconnect with the GFI breaker in it a “spa pack”. Often if comes with the tub.

Also a disconnect outside is not actually required here, but that’s a whole other thread :wink:


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## GroundFighter 78 (Aug 10, 2018)

I'd use long wood screws to mount two pieces of super strut to the lowpoints of the siding in order to hold the disconnect off the vinyl and not flatten out the overlapping folds. Probably wouldn't even use spring nuts, just long screws again through the strut to mount the box


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## Locknutz (Sep 7, 2012)

Cut 3/4”or 1/2” emt into 3/4” pieces to use as standoff’s. Hole saw the siding and place the standoff’s between the disconnect and sheathing. Toggle bolt or screw. No squashed siding. Finish with a good clear silicone.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

flyboy said:


> Use one or two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Alcoa-Home-Exteriors-METER-PW/dp/B000DZBGEG
> 
> View attachment 128814



I like this idea but I doubt I will find something like it off the shelf up here.




HackWork said:


> No, I demand that you stop using these.



Whats wrong with them?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

eddy current said:


> Long screws to reach the wood.


Yep. Keep it simple, collect your money. Done.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> I like this idea but I doubt I will find something like it off the shelf up here.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Milwaukee doesn't make them.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> Yep. Keep it simple, collect your money. Done.



If I do that, I will crush the vinyl.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

NDC said:


> If I do that, I will crush the vinyl.



Not really. Just stop before it starts to crush. I’ve done it many times on siding with styrofoam and on stucco with styrofoam. 


Could always keep it inside the house? It is not required to be outside in Canada although it is done quite often.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> If I do that, I will crush the vinyl.


Try it. Thank me later.

Use the bigger one like Eaton. Don't buy the crappy little plastic Square D.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

The problem is if you just use long screws, you squash the siding. Here's a good solution if you have them: 










You'll want 3/8-16 x 6" hanger bolt. The lag screw part is sunk into the wood, hopefully into studs. On the machine screw part, you sandwich the board between nuts and washers. The layout takes a little thought.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

We don't do a lot a siding, I say that but then in the last 2 weeks I've mounted a half dozen things to siding :laughing: Big panel boards and gutter I'll usually put strut horizontally under it. Small discos I try and set it up so my holes fall just under the overlaps and use PVC spacers and long construction screws.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

You people are crazy. I use 3” deck screws thru very type of siding, shakes, EIFS, etc. known to man and I never crushed anything. 

I screwed a meter to vinyl siding 2 days ago. It’s solid as a rock without crushing it.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

HackWork said:


> *You people are crazy.* I use 3” deck screws thru very type of siding, shakes, EIFS, etc. known to man and I never crushed anything.
> 
> I screwed a meter to vinyl siding 2 days ago. It’s solid as a rock without crushing it.


This right here is why I like Hax!

I listen to you people and start 2nd guessing myself....have I been doing it wrong?
Was I not showed the proper way?

Then along comes Hax, and eloquently states the obvious! Lol


Sent from my LG-K550 using Tapatalk


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> You people are crazy. I use 3” deck screws thru very type of siding, shakes, EIFS, etc. known to man and I never crushed anything.
> 
> I screwed a meter to vinyl siding 2 days ago. It’s solid as a rock without crushing it.


What didn't you have any duct tape with you?


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

Whatever you do, don't make it too fancy.


After all, when the house gets resided again, all the siding crew is going to do is leave it hanging after they finish or half @ss reinstall it with a couple of drywall screws. Not plumb or level of course....


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

HackWork said:


> No, I demand that you stop using these.


Don't tell me what to do.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

No way I'm ever cutting siding.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

flyboy said:


> Don't tell me what to do.


That’s not the way this works.



NDC said:


> Whats wrong with them?


They cost money to buy. They require work to install. There serve no purpose. And they look horrible.


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

HackWork said:


> That’s not the way this works.


You've been misinformed.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

3DDesign said:


> No way I'm ever cutting siding.


One of the counties here (Summit) would red tag the service if one were to cut
out the siding.

It would be red tagged (not an electrical code) , but an issue with screwing
up the moisture barrier.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

flyboy said:


> You've been misinformed.


I use those blocks on new construction before siding is on.
This way the siding contractor can side around it using the 
channels that are 360 degrees around it.

As stated in post above , here, Summit county requires them.


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

lighterup said:


> I use those blocks on new construction before siding is on.
> This way the siding contractor can side around it using the
> channels that are 360 degrees around it.
> 
> As stated in post above , here, *Summit county requires them.*


They have no respect for electricians. I would never work in that county again if I were you. :vs_cool:


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

flyboy said:


> They have no respect for electricians. I would never work in that county again if I were you. :vs_cool:


Oh okay. Sorrry ...I thought we were attempting normalcy here. My bad.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

lighterup said:


> One of the counties here (Summit) would red tag the service if one were to cut
> out the siding.
> 
> It would be red tagged (not an electrical code) , but an issue with screwing
> up the moisture barrier.


If you cut the siding without damaging the wrap is it an issue? Asking for a friend.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I might come around to the F. it side and squash the siding. I hate that commercial properties here went to this cheap ass stuff. I hate it more than Dryvit and that's saying some. 

From now on, I am screwing it in with drywall screws like @HackWork and squashing it flat. If they bitch, I point out they shouldn't have encased their building in fluffy plastic Fisher Price siding if they didn't want it to look that way.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

splatz said:


> I might come around to the F. it side and squash the siding. I hate that commercial properties here went to this cheap ass stuff. I hate it more than Dryvit and that's saying some.
> 
> From now on, I am screwing it in with drywall screws like @HackWork and squashing it flat. If they bitch, I point out they shouldn't have encased their building in fluffy plastic Fisher Price siding if they didn't want it to look that way.


If you squash it, your doing it wrong.

Have a lil faith and trust in Hax! Lol









Sent from my LG-K550 using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I could post about 100 pictures of my meter pans firmly mounted to the house without any distortion in the vinyl siding behind it. But I shouldn’t have to. You people should know that and if you don’t you should take my word for it as law. :biggrin:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I make the decision between using a siding block and mounting it on the siding based on my gut feeling of how nice of a house it is. Vinyl siding is stupid easy to work with, and putting an Arlington siding block up is hardly a difficult task. Sometimes unnecessary, but nobody can claim it's a hard job. There are many paths to a job well done.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> I make the decision between using a siding block and mounting it on the siding based on my gut feeling of how nice of a house it is. Vinyl siding is stupid easy to work with, and putting an Arlington siding block up is hardly a difficult task. Sometimes unnecessary, but nobody can claim it's a hard job. There are many paths to a job well done.


 Is it hard? No (I really wouldn’t consider most of our work to be hard). But installing a sliding block is a waste of time and money that yields a very ugly result. It’s almost as bad as using uni-strut on a house.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Is it hard? No (I really wouldn’t consider most of our work to be hard). But installing a sliding block is a waste of time and money that yields a very ugly result. It’s almost as bad as using uni-strut on a house.


You really think mounting blocks are ugly? I never heard anyone mention that as an objection before. To my eye, they seem like a more polished and finished result. I guess everyone's different. I'm happy to confess that I've screwed far more things on top of the siding than I have used a siding block. Probably a 10:1 ratio.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I guess if I was concerned about flatenning the siding, I would just stack some washers on the screws. I have never made very good money on a hot tub job. It's a hit and run so keep it simple.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

99cents said:


> I guess if I was concerned about flatenning the siding, I would just stack some washers on the screws. I have never made very good money on a hot tub job. It's a hit and run so keep it simple.


It's decent fill-in work. By the time a person spends the good money on a hot tub, they're often tapped out. The cost to wire the thing is normally an afterthought, and shopping for the cheapest price becomes their primary motivation.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> You really think mounting blocks are ugly? I never heard anyone mention that as an objection before. To my eye, they seem like a more polished and finished result. I guess everyone's different. I'm happy to confess that I've screwed far more things on top of the siding than I have used a siding block. Probably a 10:1 ratio.


Yes, I think they look really bad. They draw attention to something that you don't want attention drawn to. They stand out and frame something really ugly.



MDShunk said:


> It's decent fill-in work. By the time a person spends the good money on a hot tub, they're often tapped out. The cost to wire the thing is normally an afterthought, and shopping for the cheapest price becomes their primary motivation.


Yup, especially when the salesman says how it should only cost a coupe hundred to wire up. 

I had an electric dryer salesman tell my customer that that running power should only cost $100-150. She freaked out when I told her $650.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

A six dollar siding block is the way to go.


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## fmwowol (Aug 11, 2019)

what's it ...a Wayne Homes house?

Put some posts in the ground with treated wood
and mount the box to that.

The Styrofoam isn't gonna hold anything for very long


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

You had to bump at least 16 threads that haven't been responded to in months?


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

LawnGuyLandSparky said:


> You had to bump at least 16 threads that haven't been responded to in months?


Is he trying to build his post count? Or is he trying to straighten everyone out?
:ninja:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

readydave8 said:


> Is he trying to build his post count? Or is he trying to straighten everyone out?
> :ninja:


He was looking for tips on what to clean vinyl siding with in one thread.


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