# 12V vs 18V Cordless drill and impact driver



## chewy

Get yourself an 18V first, the Milwaukee fuel drills are compact enough for me not to warrant using my 12v drill.


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## [email protected]&Relectric

I believe you'll find an 18v more reliable however, I recommend a corded drill motor for drilling the 2x4s


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## Vintage Sounds

Always 18v. You also should not be using a cordless to drill 7/8" holes in 2x4s unless you want a dead drill. If any moron tries to get you to use your cordless for this you should ask to borrow his drill so that the only motor that gets fried is that his.


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## mikeh32

18v makita, and 12v milwaukee


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## varmit

An 18 volt drill is probably the most useful for more tasks. A 12 or 14 volt impact is a very useful tool for driving screws and tightening bolts, but not very useful as a drill. A 12 volt drill is a really good screwdriver for smaller fasteners that you might break with an impact, but a little weak for more than a 1/4" drill bit in steel.

As for drilling 2x4s, USE A CORDED DRILL. I don't think any cordless drill will live for very long drilling 1 1/2' to 3" of wood regularly. Hole saws are a drill killer also.


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## B4T

Consumer Reports just did an article on them.. 

General use drill/driver highest rated Hitachi DS18DSAL...$170.00

Tougher job drill/driver highest rated Makita BHP454.... has hammer drill mode..$280.00

Impact drivers.. highest rated Ryobi P236....$190.00


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## BBQ

B4T said:


> Consumer Reports just did an article on them..
> 
> General use drill/driver highest rated Hitachi DS18DSAL...$170.00
> 
> Tougher job drill/driver highest rated Makita BHP454.... has hammer drill mode..$280.00
> 
> Impact drivers.. highest rated Ryobi P236....$190.00


Highest rated of those tested, I do not get the mag any more but typically they chose homeowner models to test. (Ryobi top rated :laughing


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## Hippie

BBQ said:


> (Ryobi top rated :laughing


Black and Decker all the way


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## B4T

BBQ said:


> Highest rated of those tested, I do not get the mag any more but typically they chose homeowner models to test. (Ryobi top rated :laughing


_"By the numbers.. (80) models tested (1,660) holes drilled"..._

Different tests...
Speed
Power
Run Time
Charge time
Handling
Noise


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## sbrn33

BBQ said:


> (Ryobi top rated :laughing


Ever use a ryobi? For an enrty level drill they are pretty danm good. Plus he could get a sawsall and impact for less money than most drills alone.:thumbsup:
Drill snobs are everywhere.:laughing:


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## svh19044

18v.

If you can only have one set, you need the 18v.

Skip the ryobi junk if you plan on having your drills last. A drill gets absolutely abused compared to an impact driver, and you will be much happier with a matching set of cordless tools.

Eta: did I read correctly about the 18v ryobi impact battery? ONe hour charge time??????


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## BBQ

sbrn33 said:


> Ever use a ryobi? For an enrty level drill they are pretty danm good. Plus he could get a sawsall and impact for less money than most drills alone.:thumbsup:
> Drill snobs are everywhere.:laughing:



Knock yourself out, Ryobi away. :laughing:


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## drspec

I have Dewalt, Milwaukee as well as Ryobi. I can say that the Ryobi has held up better than either of the other two.


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## B4T

These guys did the tests under REAL conditions and some of you still don't believe the report... :no::no::no:

Notice there are DIFFERENT models out there....


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## Voltech

BBQ said:


> Highest rated of those tested, I do not get the mag any more but typically they chose homeowner models to test. (Ryobi top rated :laughing


Hey I love Ryobi.. I get Ryobi tools for my wife all the time, whether she needs them or not. Keeps me from going to the truck to hang that picture..


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## Voltech

Im not sure anything will replace a good 18v drill. But as far as an impact I have seen a few 12v that are great. I have a porter cable that I could not be more happy with for the money. Dont get my wrong tho, I have dewalt 18v for the bigger impacting. My 12v will drive tek 5's into thick steel, but its hard on it. I use my 12v for mostly pan heads for metal, all wood screws.

Be sure to look for a higher RPM when getting an impact for driving metal tapping screws.


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## Acadian9

I've only ever used a corded drill (with side grip) for putting holes in joists and 2x4's. Cordless is for installing the boxes and stuff.

I've used this drill before. Solid.


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## TGGT

The M12 fuel line that will be coming out is showing some impressive numbers.

*M12 FUEL 1/4″ Hex Impact Driver (2453-20, 2453-22)*



2-mode _Drive Control_ (high precision/top performance )
Maximum torque: 1,200 in-lbs
Speed: 0-2,650 RPM
Impact speed: 0-3,550 IPM
1/4″ hex chuck with one-handed bit insertion
Length: 6″
Weight: 2.2 lbs with 2.0Ah battery
Kit includes 2x 2.0Ah battery packs


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## 99cents

Drills are used for drilling. Impacts are used for screwing.

If you're buying a drill get an 18V Fuel with at least one, preferably two, XC batteries. I bought a Fuel with two compact batteries and an extra battery for free. I talked them into a free XC battey. I drilled a 5000 sq. ft. house with that setup, no problem. My corded drill got stolen off the jobsite and I never missed it. If somebody stole my Fuel I would track him down and cut his balls off.

Like somebody else said, the Fuel is compact enough that I rarely use my 12V anymore.


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## FastFokker

I love the Makita LXT line of tools... but I don't love the price! But I still have my first LXT drill from 4 years, it's been used and abused and lived twice as long as I expected. I might just retire it out of pity. 

The only thing I don't love is the cost of batteries.. but if you watch for combo packs to go on sale, it's the best way to get new/more tools and get more batteries.


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## macmikeman

Anybody else remember the Makita 9 volt drills when cordless tools first showed up?


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## jefft110

macmikeman said:


> Anybody else remember the Makita 9 volt drills when cordless tools first showed up?


I sure do. 
Years ago I reluctantly bought one off a tin knocker who just lost his job and needed the money. I felt sorry for him.

He threw in the stipulation that he'd be able to buy it back whenever he found another hvac job.

Over 2 years later I reluctantly had to sell it back to him.


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## pwoody

We use the 18v makita for the general purpose drilling cutting chopping work, and then the big corded milwaukee hockey stick drill for all the rough in holes. a big ol D handled drill with a side grip on its 3 foot extension that angles out 30 degrees at the end, can hit floor joists and walls without a ladder or bending over. for boxing and trimming we use the 12v milwaukee. I was on the makita 12v but both batteries died after me using the hell out of them for three years, prob going to get the fuel line when it comes out this january.


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## pwoody

90% of the time, its the 12v im using.


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## sbrn33

macmikeman said:


> Anybody else remember the Makita 9 volt drills when cordless tools first showed up?


I do, the tinners loved em. I bet there are still a few in service.


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## Amish Electrician

OK, guys, I want you to take a close look at the WALL framing in this pic:










Those are 'Timberstrand' LVL's, or 'laminated veneer lumber.' Think of them as being just like 2x4's, only thicker. Much thicker- and spaced much closer together. Much harder to drill than simple lumber, and hand-driving nails is a real challenge. They're used in 'engineered' buildings, which is why the spacings are so unusual, and the thicknesses vary so much. Every board came pre-cut and identified.

I wired that place, using metal boxes and EMT. I bored lots of holes and hung lots of boxes. 

I did it using only a 9.6v impact driver. I would NEVER use a drill again for this sort of work.

OK, so you understand about impact drivers and screws. They work great. But for drilling?

I uses the Irwin Speed-bor MAX bits. Here's a link: http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/speedbor-max-speed-bits.

They're the cat's meow for drilling with an impact driver. Fast, clean holes. NO torque or 'twisting' felt at the wrist. Hit a nail? No problem, it just stops drilling. Move your hole. 

I was using an old-style DeWalt 9.6v NiCd driver. I got about 7 holes (7/8") per charge. That would equal maybe 12 holes in ordinary 2x4's. If you're doing smaller holes - 5/8 often works for MC - you get lots more holes. 

Since then, I've replaced the DeWalt with a much smaller 12v. Bosch Li-ion driver. Since then, we've had the Li-ion revolution. An 18v Li-ion weighs no more than a 12v Ni-Cd. Makita has done real well with their 18v redesigned line, but I don't see any reason to replace that little Bosch.

Another advantage to an impact driver is that the driver, with the Irwin bit, will fit between studs easily. No more fighting it. No more crooked holes.

With an impact driver, there is NO correlation between volts ans power. It is the drive mechanism that sets the 'drive power.' More volts just means that you can make more holes between charges.

Deep holes? Snap-on extensions work just fine. You'll need one for drilling a triple top plate.

Since I got my first impact, my drills are feeling lonely.


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## zwodubber

chewy said:


> Get yourself an 18V first, the Milwaukee fuel drills are compact enough for me not to warrant using my 12v drill.


I think my FUEL 18V impact is actually lighter than my M12 impact, at least it feels that way.


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## sbrn33

Amish Electrician said:


> OK, guys, I want you to take a close look at the WALL framing in this pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are 'Timberstrand' LVL's, or 'laminated veneer lumber.' Think of them as being just like 2x4's, only thicker. Much thicker- and spaced much closer together. Much harder to drill than simple lumber, and hand-driving nails is a real challenge. They're used in 'engineered' buildings, which is why the spacings are so unusual, and the thicknesses vary so much. Every board came pre-cut and identified.
> 
> I wired that place, using metal boxes and EMT. I bored lots of holes and hung lots of boxes.
> 
> I did it using only a 9.6v impact driver. I would NEVER use a drill again for this sort of work.
> 
> OK, so you understand about impact drivers and screws. They work great. But for drilling?
> 
> I uses the Irwin Speed-bor MAX bits. Here's a link: http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/speedbor-max-speed-bits.
> 
> They're the cat's meow for drilling with an impact driver. Fast, clean holes. NO torque or 'twisting' felt at the wrist. Hit a nail? No problem, it just stops drilling. Move your hole.
> 
> I was using an old-style DeWalt 9.6v NiCd driver. I got about 7 holes (7/8") per charge. That would equal maybe 12 holes in ordinary 2x4's. If you're doing smaller holes - 5/8 often works for MC - you get lots more holes.
> 
> Since then, I've replaced the DeWalt with a much smaller 12v. Bosch Li-ion driver. Since then, we've had the Li-ion revolution. An 18v Li-ion weighs no more than a 12v Ni-Cd. Makita has done real well with their 18v redesigned line, but I don't see any reason to replace that little Bosch.
> 
> Another advantage to an impact driver is that the driver, with the Irwin bit, will fit between studs easily. No more fighting it. No more crooked holes.
> 
> With an impact driver, there is NO correlation between volts ans power. It is the drive mechanism that sets the 'drive power.' More volts just means that you can make more holes between charges.
> 
> Deep holes? Snap-on extensions work just fine. You'll need one for drilling a triple top plate.
> 
> Since I got my first impact, my drills are feeling lonely.


7 holes on a charge?? That is crazy. While you were changing batteries every five minutes I got out my hole hawg and drilled the rest of the building in ten minutes. If anybody really drills more than about ten holes with a cordless they are taking to long and abusing the drill.


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## chewy

I drill 1 inch holes all day with a cordless, spade bit and a file, get that burr back after about 10 holes and its like a hot knife through butter. I found the speed bore bits clog easily and break off a bit of timber and wont drill through sistered studs plus they arent easy to sharpen as you go.


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## daveEM

Haven't pulled out my + 20 year old 1/2" corded Milwaukee since I picked up my M18 Fuel hammer drill. Gotta love the new stuff. 3 XC batteries and no problem.

Now to replace the corded Milwaukee sawzall.


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## Starcraft

12V is a toy dont waste your money just get an 18 volt...I have both and rarely use the 12


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## Ryan Da Sparky

I've been in the Trades since before the first 12v models came out; during that time I've owned Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee - a couple of FireStorm POS's (bought them for the batteries - they were directly usable in my DeWalt 14.4 motors), several Hitachi motors (FANTASTIC motors for the price - even excluding the price, they're damn good) and recently I purchased a set of Kobalt tools for a new apprentice.

Kobalt are OK for a guy who can't afford anything better - and they're a damn sight finer than a Ryobi.

I would never hire a guy, or let him stay employed, if he showed up on my site with a set of Ryobi tools; I'd offer to buy him a set of tradesman's tools, to be deducted from his first 4 checks, and if he wasn't interested, I'd send him down the road.

My greatest shock in the last 10 years was the power and usefulness of my 12V Milwaukee impact driver and 3/8th's drive Hammerdrill.

WOW!

Really useful tools; even the hammerdrill on high torque is able to drive a 7/8ths Irwin self-drilling auger bit (the three cutting surface bit on high torque, low speed) through 80 year old floor joists. I wouldn't recommend you do this regularly, but sometimes I have that in my holster and its faster to do just two or three holes than to walk over to where my Hole Hawg is.

The 12V Milwaukee impact driver works equally well with the 7/8ths Irwin bit.

Lately I have purchased several sets of the Bosch "Daredevil" self-feeding spade type bits; they cut nicely without the needed torque that a standard ship-auger bit requires; it cuts clean on both sides of the hole.

I have 18V Milwaukee and DeWalt Hammerdrills and Impact drivers; to be honest, I'd rather burn up (because its under warranty) the DeWalt or Milwaukee drivers for boring holes (intermittently) than take the time to string a cord and run my Hawg.

Time is expensive, and relatively speaking, tools are cheap. Especially if they're under warranty.


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## Ryan Da Sparky

Here's a link for the Bosch bits I was referring to;

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail.aspx?pid=1355


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## Marauder

get the Dewalt 20 volt combo set for $200 ( impact drill and compact hammer drill) I would buy that . Ive had milwaukee and Makita (except the new brushless stuff )


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## Ryan Da Sparky

The problem that I have with the new DeWalt "20v MAX" system is that its NOT 20v; the idle voltage of the cells is 20v, but the loaded voltage is 18v.

The packs aren't compatible with the older style tools, nor are the older style tools compatible with the new packs.

I have a dozen 18v NiCd packs; all of them less than 2 years, 4 LiOn packs also about the same age - to go to a new style battery makes it impossible for me to use some 8 or 9 thousand dollars in tools that I have.

$100.00 for two new DeWalt NiCd XRP 18v packs is CHEAP; about 1/3rd the cost of a LiOn pack.

Work wise, the NiCd tolerate greater temperature extremes and higher loads for longer periods.

And the price of NiCd DeWalt tools makes them a STEAL for a new apprentice or Journeyman who has financial constraints.

I'll step off my soapbox now; a little too much "christmas cheer," methinks I may have had... :whistling2:


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## wendon

I see there's an ad in a contractor magazine for the Fuel M12 tools. I wonder when they'll be available? I want!!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## ilikepez

Mid January supposedly.


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## Marauder

You got some points there but personally from a guy thats bought almost every combo. i find dewalt just better built and powerful . I personally got the combo for 5 piece for $325 (craiglist guy that stole them) or you could probably get it around $475 . The old dewalt Combo you probably can't get that much cheaper the best you can do is maybe $100 less than the 20 volt combo. The 20 volt stuff has more power,its lighter, more features plus who does't like new tools .


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## Ryan Da Sparky

Marauder-

I love new tools; I'm ashamed to admit, but I look for reasons to buy new ones... "Say, I have a new apprentice starting, hmmm... he needs a set of reliable tools.. If I allow him to use my older set, I can buy new one's..."

My first Makita 12v motor is sitting in my basement on my workbench; I've had it rebuilt twice. I still have one functioning original battery pack - all the others I've replaced the 1AH sub-C NiCd cells in.

My first 14.4v DeWalt (hammer drill) is also sitting on the bench; I've gone through three chucks and two sets of gears; I use it around the house.

My first set of 18v DeWalt tools, the 6 tool package (picked up at Costco), finally died about a year ago; one after the next, excepting the hand grinder, failed. I mean within a few weeks of each other.

My first Milwaukee 18v tools lasted about a year; the ****ty batteries didn't even last that long.

Then I tried a set of Makita 10.5v tools; impact driver and drill motor.

I loved them.

Then I bought a set of 12v Milwaukee tools; impact driver, 3/8ths HAMMER DRILL, and oscillating tool (trash).

I picked up another set of 12v Makita drivers and impact driver.

Another set of DeWalt 18v tools; hammer drill, impact driver saw, light - $200.00; good enough for what I need em' for.

I bought a set of Milwaukee 18v LiOn MAX tools; hammer drill, impact driver, Hacks-All, light.

Great tools.

And I've bought dozens of "bare" tools over the last year.

For the greatest value I still recommend DeWalt 18v NiCd tools; the batteries are cheap; you can spend $200 for the three most commonly used tools (two really) which comes with two batteries and a charger, buy two more batteries AND an additional charger, and spend less than buying a set of the 20v tools that only come with two low-capacity LiOn batteries.

They are heavier, however, I think the tradeoff is well worth the extra weight.

Where in AZ are you, Marauder?

I lived and worked in both Tucson and Chandler for a number of years (built a bunch of schools in Tucson - remodeled them for "technology upgrades") and I built INTEL FAB 22 in Chandler, MOTOROLA in Tempe, and a bunch of QWEST remodels, along with remodels at the VA and the waste water treatment station in Buckeye.


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## Marauder

To each his own . Can't believe you like those makita 10.8 instead of the mIlwaukee's . I gave mine away . Im working all over the place ( Phoenix,Mesa,Gilbert Prescott, Flagstaff ) mostly apartments, condos our biggest projects are GCU campus and ASU student housing also worked at tucson 2 years ago doing remodel apartments. We are busy.Which means my boss is happy that leads him to give me more money : ) .Sounds like you did some big projects


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## sbrn33

Ryan Da Sparky said:


> I've been in the Trades since before the first 12v models came out; during that time I've owned Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee - a couple of FireStorm POS's (bought them for the batteries - they were directly usable in my DeWalt 14.4 motors), several Hitachi motors (FANTASTIC motors for the price - even excluding the price, they're damn good) and recently I purchased a set of Kobalt tools for a new apprentice.
> 
> Kobalt are OK for a guy who can't afford anything better - and they're a damn sight finer than a Ryobi.
> 
> I would never hire a guy, or let him stay employed, if he showed up on my site with a set of Ryobi tools; I'd offer to buy him a set of tradesman's tools, to be deducted from his first 4 checks, and if he wasn't interested, I'd send him down the road..



Says the guy who has never used or owned a Ryobi.


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## chewy

sbrn33 said:


> Says the guy who has never used or owned a Ryobi.


I got a Ryobi benchgrinder I just cannot kill and they also make a pretty good tablesaw.


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## Ryan Da Sparky

Marauder said:


> To each his own . Can't believe you like those makita 10.8 instead of the mIlwaukee's . I gave mine away . Im working all over the place ( Phoenix,Mesa,Gilbert Prescott, Flagstaff ) mostly apartments, condos our biggest projects are GCU campus and ASU student housing also worked at tucson 2 years ago doing remodel apartments. We are busy.Which means my boss is happy that leads him to give me more money : ) .Sounds like you did some big projects


I don't like them "instead" of the Milwaukee - I just said I liked them 

I was able to get two sets of the 10.8v and two of the 12v Makita sets at $99.00 each; half the price of the Milwaukee ones.

So I have a set in the basement, one in the kitchen, one in my "emergency tools" (a full set of hand tools I keep in the trunk of my car in case I need them while visiting family and friends - you'd be surprised how often there are "emergencies" when visiting...) and the fourth set are in my van; I put in a "flammables cabinet" that I use as a charging bay; I have a small heater in it to keep my tools above freezing at night; all of my cordless tools live in it.

A couple of months ago someone busted into my van while I was at a service call in the bad part of town; they stole my Bosch hammers and about $10k in 350mcm, but they couldn't get the cabinet open.

I always loved working in Arizona; I lived there for almost 7 years before the illness of one of my children required us to move to the Midwest to a specialty hospital.

I'd do anything to get back out there... where there isn't snow 7 months of the year and where people don't pronounce "bag" like "beg."


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## patpourri

I use a makita 18v impact for tight spaces with a hybrid spaded/auger bit with 3amp hour batteries, 2 batteries will get you through the day. Make sure the model has the led light too. Can't destroy that thing, even a drop from 65 feet on ice didn't kill it.


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## pancake808

a 12v will never repace a 18v. get a 18v set up then get 12v set up for service/lite work "devices,face plates ect" my bosch is 1.8 lbs with batt and has super soft clutch for such jobs.


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## Switched

I have the Bosch 18v set. Love the stuff. The impact is pretty awesome. Plus you can get a compact Hammer Drill-Driver unit. That thing can fit into some pretty tight spaces to drill anchors in concrete.

I did a job at a local dam/power plant, and it paid for itself in one day. It was the only tool that could get into the extremely tight spaces I had to run conduit. They cost more than the other brands, but they have been good so far. Before that I always had the old Ni-Cad 18v DeWalt stuff.

I would not get anything below 18v. Not that it can't do 80% of what you ask it to, but that I hate changing and charging batteries. Nothing like having to crawl back out of an attic cause your battery died in the middle of drilling a hole.


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## MC_Hieger

Vintage Sounds said:


> Always 18v. You also should not be using a cordless to drill 7/8" holes in 2x4s unless you want a dead drill. If any moron tries to get you to use your cordless for this you should ask to borrow his drill so that the only motor that gets fried is that his.


What else are you supposed to do with a drill? This comment makes no sense. There's battery powered tools designed for everyday heavy use.


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## kb1jb1

I use my cheap 18 volt Makita drill with 3/4" auger bits all the time. I only bring out the 120 volt stuff for larger bits or wood deeper than 6 inches. I hate bringing out the extension cords.


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## MC_Hieger

kb1jb1 said:


> I use my cheap 18 volt Makita drill with 3/4" auger bits all the time. I only bring out the 120 volt stuff for larger bits or wood deeper than 6 inches. I hate bringing out the extension cords.


Amen!


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## 99cents

This is an old thread but who cares? It might be good to update it ten years later.

In my opinion, the M12 Fuel impact driver is a little beast. The M12 Fuel drill is nothing but light duty. The M12 Hackzall is mediocre but I don’t use Hackzalls much anymore. M12 lights are okay.

In other words, I use and abuse the impact driver daily but the rest are borderline homeowner tools. If you want real tools, you use Bosch 18V but we all know that already. 😊


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## splatz

99cents said:


> This is an old thread but who cares? It might be good to update it ten years later.
> 
> In my opinion, the M12 Fuel impact driver is a little beast. The M12 Fuel drill is nothing but light duty. The M12 Hackzall is mediocre but I don’t use Hackzalls much anymore. M12 lights are okay.
> 
> In other words, I use and abuse the impact driver daily but the rest are borderline homeowner tools. If you want real tools, you use Bosch 18V but we all know that already. 😊


I agree, I have a mix of M12 and M18 and if I had to buy Milwaukee again I'd only buy the M12 impact with the small batteries and buy everything else M18, with one exception - the mini bandsaw. But I think they should have made the mini bandsaw 18V. 

For example the M12 SDS plus drill is OK and significantly smaller than the M18 SDS plus drill, but even for little 1/4" holes for anchors, I usually grab the M18, even though it's heavier to carry and support, it's less work because it's so much faster.


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## Almost Retired

99cents said:


> This is an old thread but who cares? It might be good to update it ten years later.
> 
> In my opinion, the M12 Fuel impact driver is a little beast. The M12 Fuel drill is nothing but light duty. The M12 Hackzall is mediocre but I don’t use Hackzalls much anymore. M12 lights are okay.
> 
> In other words, I use and abuse the impact driver daily but the rest are borderline homeowner tools. If you want real tools, you use Bosch 18V but we all know that already. 😊


i agree on the driver (just because i caught a kit on after christmas sale the brand is porter cable) i have 20v lithium tools, and they are all more than 2 yrs old
except the drill, second one now
i added a 4" grinder, a 1/2" drill, and a 1/2" Hammer drill, a fast charger to go in the truck, 2 - 2amp/hr batteries, and a 4amp/hr battery for doing hard things
i use my driver for drilling, when the bit has the hex, unibit, KO set including 2", plugging out with a #1 square point, making up panel neutrals with a #2,
any and all screws and bolts including self tapping #10's for metal building work
in other words when ever i can instead of a drill

i also bought this, 90* knuckle, hardly ever use it, but when i do its cause nothing else will work, i also have stubby screw-tip paddle bits for this








Right Angle Attachment







www.milwaukeetool.com


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## 99cents

splatz said:


> I agree, I have a mix of M12 and M18 and if I had to buy Milwaukee again I'd only buy the M12 impact with the small batteries and buy everything else M18, with one exception - the mini bandsaw. But I think they should have made the mini bandsaw 18V.
> 
> For example the M12 SDS plus drill is OK and significantly smaller than the M18 SDS plus drill, but even for little 1/4" holes for anchors, I usually grab the M18, even though it's heavier to carry and support, it's less work because it's so much faster.


I have often thought about a bandsaw but I use a circular metal saw and really like it. I agree on the small M12 batteries. There’s no need to use the big battery, just keep a small one in the charger all the time. Besides that, you can’t take the big battery out of the tool without explosives and an Estwing.


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## Deeegzz

MC_Hieger said:


> What else are you supposed to do with a drill? This comment makes no sense. There's battery powered tools designed for everyday heavy use.


lol.
you’re responding to someone 10 years ago.

In his defense, I don’t believe cordless are anything close to what they are now compared to 10 years ago.

I read his comment as well and was like wtf. Then realized it said 2012 lol.


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## Rob-Bryant

Since we're reliving the past, I remember when battery tools first started to come out, I'm talking early 90s, Panasonic and AEG. The Local 3 IBEW electricians here in NY vehemently fought them. They didn't want them on the jobs because, of course, all the other trades needed them to install temp power! My, how times have changed!


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## Almost Retired

Rob-Bryant said:


> Since we're reliving the past, I remember when battery tools first started to come out, I'm talking early 90s, Panasonic and AEG. The Local 3 IBEW electricians here in NY vehemently fought them. They didn't want them on the jobs because, of course, all the other trades needed them to install temp power! My, how times have changed!


temp power is still needed by the carpenters and masons
air comps and masonry wet saws


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## Rob-Bryant

Almost Retired said:


> temp power is still needed by the carpenters and masons
> air comps and masonry wet saws


we know that now, but back then, I remember the battery tools were rejected by our electrical customers. They were fighting to keep them off the jobs.


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