# Wiring question for lights and switches



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Commercial work is often done that way but residential work is usually fed in the switch box. BTW, in 2011 12/2 down to the switch will not be acceptable as a neutral is needed whether you use it or not.


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## jwjrw (Jan 14, 2010)

I hate people who do that. You have to pull the fixture down to t/s.  Did I say how much I hate people who do that?:laughing:


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

jwjrw said:


> I hate people who do that. You have to pull the fixture down to t/s.  Did I say how much I hate people who do that?:laughing:


I think the op i talking an office with drop ceiling and mc cable. JB is in the ceiling with a cable to the switch and another to the light.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

sokoservices said:


> How many of you take the feed to a light of box first before taking the switch leg 12/2 down to the switch?
> 
> I have always brought the power into the switch first and then back out. I have a new job that i was thinking of saving some wire and taking the power to a box in the middle of the office and then pulling one MC for the switch leg down to the switch and from the box i nthe middle of hte office hitting the lights. Any thoughts?
> 
> ...


 Take a look at 404.2(C)2011 NEC you need the grounded circuit conductor in your switch box.


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## jwjrw (Jan 14, 2010)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I think the op i talking an office with drop ceiling and mc cable. JB is in the ceiling with a cable to the switch and another to the light.



I was talking about his first statement. 


sokoservices 
Wiring question for lights and switches
*How many of you take the feed to a light of box first before taking the switch leg 12/2 down to the switch?*




I couldn't resist saying how much I hat people who do that........:laughing:



I know what he was asking.


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## sokoservices (Feb 23, 2010)

See attachment!


Since the AHJ just adopted the 2005 the 2011 code doesnt apply. With that being said if the 2011 code did apply couldnt you just pull one 12/3 down instead of 2 12/2's? I am worried about the amount of cable in the wall since this is the location of my switch bank that will have about 25 switches. The retail location has drop ceiling with 46 2x2 fixtures and over 350' of track lighting. This customer wants to have the versitality of lighting his displays.


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## jwjrw (Jan 14, 2010)

sokoservices said:


> See attachment!
> 
> 
> Since the AHJ just adopted the 2005 the 2011 code doesnt apply. With that being said if the 2011 code did apply couldnt you just pull one 12/3 down instead of 2 12/2's? I am worried about the amount of cable in the wall since this is the location of my switch bank that will have about 25 switches. The retail location has drop ceiling with 46 2x2 fixtures and over 350' of track lighting. This customer wants to have the versitality of lighting his displays.



Yes you could just pull a 12-3 down to switch to satisfy 2011 code. I would drop only a switch leg in a second if I have a lot of switches.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

There are times when a switch loop can be your friend.

Like door jamb switches.
:whistling2:


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

sokoservices said:


> See attachment!
> 
> 
> Since the AHJ just adopted the 2005 the 2011 code doesnt apply. With that being said if the 2011 code did apply couldnt you just pull one 12/3 down instead of 2 12/2's? *I am worried about the amount of cable in the wall since this is the location of my switch bank that will have about 25 switches.* The retail location has drop ceiling with 46 2x2 fixtures and over 350' of track lighting. This customer wants to have the versitality of lighting his displays.


I would stub up a couple of pieces of EMT.


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## tduncanlu1077 (Jan 26, 2011)

jwjrw said:


> I hate people who do that. You have to pull the fixture down to t/s.  Did I say how much I hate people who do that?:laughing:


 some of us just do it however the foreman tells us too


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## jwjrw (Jan 14, 2010)

tduncanlu1077 said:


> some of us just do it however the foreman tells us too



Lucky for me I sign his check so he does it like I say.:laughing::laughing:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

sokoservices said:


> See attachment!
> 
> 
> Since the AHJ just adopted the 2005 the 2011 code doesnt apply. With that being said if the 2011 code did apply couldnt you just pull one 12/3 down instead of 2 12/2's? I am worried about the amount of cable in the wall since this is the location of my switch bank that will have about 25 switches. The retail location has drop ceiling with 46 2x2 fixtures and over 350' of track lighting. This customer wants to have the versitality of lighting his displays.


Just stub a bunch of EMT's from your switch boxes up to a big junction box above the ceiling. Connect all the switch boxes to each other with nipples for "just in case". This is really the only thing I can think of for you to do if people can't make up their minds. In fact, it's probably what I'd do anyhow.

Head's up: If any of the larger loads are going to be on dimmers, keep in mind that heat sink type dimmers cover more than a single gang, so shouldn't really be in a gang box.


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## netgeek723 (Feb 6, 2011)

To be completely correct, you only need the grounded conductor if the box is no longer accessible ie: mc cable or romex in a solid wall. If switch is installed in conduit or readily accessible, then a grounded conductor is not necessary. I am not condoning this practice because I also hate it, but just stating what the code actually reads


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## jwjrw (Jan 14, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> Just stub a bunch of EMT's from your switch boxes up to a big junction box above the ceiling. Connect all the switch boxes to each other with nipples for "just in case". This is really the only thing I can think of for you to do if people can't make up their minds. In fact, it's probably what I'd do anyhow.
> 
> Head's up: If any of the larger loads are going to be on dimmers, keep in mind that heat sink type dimmers cover more than a single gang, so shouldn't really be in a gang box.




Yea I put in (12) 4 sq's with 2 gang plaster rings for 12 2000w dimmers and cut in 2 five space gangable metal boxes with emt going up to a J box. It was the easiest way to do it in that case.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

netgeek723 said:


> To be completely correct, you only need the grounded conductor if the box is no longer accessible ie: mc cable or romex in a solid wall. If switch is installed in conduit or readily accessible, then a grounded conductor is not necessary. I am not condoning this practice because I also hate it, but just stating what the code actually reads


Yes that is in 404.2(C) Exceptions #1 and 2...


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