# Could use some help.



## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

yeah that will work. Someone will put up a nice diagram for you.

Your boss is putting a J box in the ceiling. From the panel he is taking a hot and neutral to it. Then he takes a bx down to the switch... he energises the white wire of that bx (it goes on the switch). The black wire (called a switch leg) goes on the other screw of the switch. In the J box you now have a marr on the hot from the panel on the white to the switch and the black coming back up (switch leg).

The lights would connect to the neutral from the panel and the switch leg from the switch.

Try and draw that out. I've been known to have a communication problem.

The 'non metric' guys that hang out here would take another neutral down to the switch (cause they have to). They also don't know how to spell neutral and call it after some kind of soup. They can be a problem


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## darren79 (Dec 20, 2011)

I am confused, why do you have something going back to the panel?


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

daveEM said:


> yeah that will work. Someone will put up a nice diagram for you.
> 
> Your boss is putting a J box in the ceiling. From the panel he is taking a hot and neutral to it. Then he takes a bx down to the switch... he energises the white wire of that bx (it goes on the switch). The black wire (called a switch leg) goes on the other screw of the switch. In the J box you now have a marr on the hot from the panel on the white to the switch and the black coming back up (switch leg).
> 
> ...


Noodle is the term he is referring to. And yes we need a "noodle" at the switch unless we can get one there after by conduit, or access from above or below.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

darren79 said:


> I am confused, why do you have something going back to the panel?


Probably means in the actual wiring.. as in the neutral or "return". It has to go back to the panel to make electricity flow.

Also, the OP is in Canada, and Canada does not require a neutral at the switch.


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## Celtic (Nov 19, 2007)




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## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

What the OP seems to be asking for, is sometimes called a trick loop here. This is a diagram that shows what I understand him to be asking.










Remember to insert YOUR CODE in wiring of these. This has notation for the "non metric" members


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## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

JohnR said:


> What the OP seems to be asking for, is sometimes called a trick loop here. This is a diagram that shows what I understand him to be asking.
> 
> Remember to insert YOUR CODE in wiring of these. This has notation for the "non metric" members


Hmm my code is out of date, where do I buy a 2012 version?


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## Celtic (Nov 19, 2007)

pudge565 said:


> Hmm my code is out of date, where do I buy a 2012 version?


www.do-it-yourself-help.com of course :thumbsup:


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## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

Celtic said:


> www.do-it-yourself-help.com of course :thumbsup:


Thanks, I just ordered two, one for the work truck and one for the sh!tter. :thumbup: :laughing:


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

darren79 said:


> I am confused, why do you have something going back to the panel?




its a class A system?:thumbup:






pudge565 said:


> Hmm my code is out of date, where do I buy a 2012 version?


NJ, ask hack or gold


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

JohnR said:


> What the OP seems to be asking for, is sometimes called a trick loop here.


Yeah we call it a dead end where I live and work. "dead end switch" or "dead end 3 way".


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## darren79 (Dec 20, 2011)

FrunkSlammer said:


> Probably means in the actual wiring.. as in the neutral or "return". It has to go back to the panel to make electricity flow.
> 
> Also, the OP is in Canada, and Canada does not require a neutral at the switch.


Guess that makes sense, never have thought of the neutral as a return to the panel before.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

JohnR said:


> What the OP seems to be asking for, is sometimes called a trick loop here. This is a diagram that shows what I understand him to be asking.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah, you see sirux I knew someone would post a nice pic for you. JohnR has and that is what your boss is doing.

Just pretend that light bulb is your Jbox and from there you wire your row if fixtures.

In the USA they take a neutral down to the switch also. The reason being newer control devices (timers, dimmers, etc.) require a neutral. 

It's a good idea. I have a case where I use two timers and the one with no neutral I have to use the Intermatic ST01 (it has a battery) rather than my controller of choice the aube T1072-3W (Honeywell).


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