# MC Cable the Fire Stop Wall



## walkerj (May 13, 2007)

czars said:


> I have a client that needs a new cable run through a fire stop wall. The plan is to use MC cable for the cable run, but I don't how to penetrate the fire stop wall with the MC. Does anyone know the proper way to accomplish this??


There is a lot more to it than that. 

What type of sealant will you use?

What ul design wall system?

What hour rating?


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## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

czars said:


> I have a client that needs a new cable run through a fire stop wall. The plan is to use MC cable for the cable run, but I don't how to penetrate the fire stop wall with the MC. Does anyone know the proper way to accomplish this??


drill hole
put cable through
seal around cable with intumescent caulking
done


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

Knock a big-ass hole through the wall with a hammer, put cable through it. Done. :jester:


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

uconduit said:


> drill hole
> put cable through
> seal around cable with intumescent caulking
> done


Really? I would have thought you'd have to meet the manufacturer's specifications... So that you don't intermix products....Maybe follow their drawings on how to do the cable penetration...


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## NacBooster29 (Oct 25, 2010)

Hilti has an entire drawing on this. But simply put. Drill a hole put wire centered in hole. Put a liberal amount of selected fire stopping around penetration. 
The key to fire stop working is center the cable in the hole. The fire stopping expands upon heat activation.


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

NacBooster29 said:


> Hilti has an entire drawing on this. But simply put. Drill a hole put wire centered in hole. Put a liberal amount of selected fire stopping around penetration.
> The key to fire stop working is center the cable in the hole. The fire stopping expands upon heat activation.


They do have a ton of products.. Getting the right drawing and specs is key... Following the information listed is also really important...

On a side note - if you have a building with metal clad walls and cable tray entries in them, there is no drawing and each one needs to be engineered.. With that, there is also a label that is to be affixed near the entry, so that future modifications can be done properly...


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## HawkShock (Nov 27, 2012)

Easiest, fastest, meets code, effective as far as I know....








+








=
Profit?


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

dont you guys put in sleeves?


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## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

mikeh32 said:


> dont you guys put in sleeves?


it depends on how many cables, if it's one cable I don't see the point, if it's more than one that yeah. I'm getting flashbacks of cutting bundles of emt with a bandsaw and those white bushings...


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

granted we use conduit for everything, even our low voltage. one cable must be in a sleeve


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## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

mikeh32 said:


> granted we use conduit for everything, even our low voltage. one cable must be in a sleeve


so you guys don't use "extension cords" to wire homes in chicago?


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

uconduit said:


> so you guys don't use "extension cords" to wire homes in chicago?


no idea, dont do residential. 

I also only know the low voltage chicago code. 

And I have to know the NEC too. 

Gotta love it


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## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

mikeh32 said:


> no idea, dont do residential.
> 
> I also only know the low voltage chicago code.
> 
> ...


i used to work with a chicago electrician and that's what he called romex


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

uconduit said:


> i used to work with a chicago electrician and that's what he called romex


the only time I have ever seen romex, is this forum


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## LightsOn81 (Jan 6, 2012)

mikeh32 said:


> the only time I have ever seen romex, is this forum


Sounds like camp Lejeune to me


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

mikeh32 said:


> the only time I have ever seen romex, is this forum


Consider yourself fortunate. It's the worst thing ever to happen to our trade. It opened the doors real wide for the worst hacks to slither in. Every week I repair some bad splice or crappy termination some dirtbag hacked in. But, it pays the bills.
I only saw pipe and wire for my first 5 years in the trade.
30 years later and still hate to buy a roll of that crap even though it might be once a year or so.


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

jrannis said:


> Consider yourself fortunate. It's the worst thing ever to happen to our trade. It opened the doors real wide for the worst hacks to slither in. Every week I repair some bad splice or crappy termination some dirtbag hacked in. But, it pays the bills.
> I only saw pipe and wire for my first 5 years in the trade.
> 30 years later and still hate to buy a roll of that crap even though it might be once a year or so.


IMO... Tray cable has taken it to a new low of crap looks.. Even decent electricians can't make it look good.. What will the hacks make of it??


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## czars (Aug 20, 2008)

Since the MC cable is hollow inside (except for the conductors) does the inside need to be sealed also??


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## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

No..


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## NJWVUGrad (May 12, 2011)

I usually put a EMT sleeve in in for anything - I usually always have a few scrap pieces of most sizes for this and those bang-on white bushings.

1)Drill Hole
2)Put in sleeve - secured on both sides with minerallacs
3) Pull cable(s)
4) 1" or smaller just fill it with fire-stop (intumescent caulk)
(5) If larger than 1" - fill with rotten cotton and then firestop (intumescent caulk)
(6) Curse under my breath because my hands, sleeves, hardhat,boots ladder are covered in sparkly red sh*t. No matter how careful I am it gets all over me


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## IronIcarus (Feb 26, 2013)

I was told that with a minimum 2 hour fire rating any flex or low voltage must be sleeved and both around the sleeve and inside the sleeve it has to be caulked with a fire rated caulk. (which is usually red)


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## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

for low voltage a piece of emt 8 inches longer than the width of the wall with reamed ends and bushings. (so 4" hangs out on each side)

inserted into a hole drilled 1/2" wider than the o/d of the pipe (so that a 1/4" gap exists around the pipe)(3/4emt which is actually 7/8 will be drilled using a 1-3/8 hole saw IIRC)










secured to adjacent stud using this ^^^

then it is caulked around using intumescent caulking

after wire is installed, that intumescent "modeling clay" needs to be pushed into each end about 2 inches or so IIRC


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## walkerj (May 13, 2007)

This is all heresay without knowing the wall design and sealant to be used


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

walkerj said:


> This is all heresay without knowing the wall design and sealant to be used


And quantity of cables.. Size and type of hole also determines what product to be used..


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## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

#1 Decide how many cables 
#2 What namebrand of firestop do you have availible Pick one.
#3 Check namebrand of firestop for that MFG instructions for your situation.
#4 Find out how many hour rating the wall/ ceiling has. Could be minutes/ smoke wall.
#5 Apply your newfound knowledge.
#6 Remember that if anything has changed in the above results, start back at #1

On average, you have to have a 1/2" clearance around your cable/pipe which has to be filled for the complete depth of the sheetrock. If it is 3 layers, then the caulk must be the equivelent depth. Both sides of the wall. For larger holes or multiple cables, you have a large variety of solutions availible. Hilty has a great lineup and easy to understand instructions. They are fairly pricey but it is worth doing a job once and have peace of mind.


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