# "Standard" height of receptacles



## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

What is the "standard" height for a typical wall receptacle, say in a living room or bedroom? It has been a long time since I did any residential wiring. 

My senior citizen sister-in-law is going to build a house and I suggested that the receptacles be somewhat higher so an old person doesn't have to bend over quite as far. My black eye should fade away in about two weeks.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

You will probably get replies all over the place but I put them at "hammer height" to the bottom of the box which is around 13".


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Here's my method for determining receptacle height: I put a laser level on top of a milk crate  .

Switches I normally put at 45" to bottom. I have seen older homes as high as 54". I had a short family once who wanted the switches quite low. Families with smaller children tend to want switches lower.

Kitchen receptacles are dependent on cabinet drawings and backsplash.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

A Little Short said:


> You will probably get replies all over the place but I put them at "hammer height" to the bottom of the box which is around 13".


I think hammer handle height is universal. Strange how it always seems to go back to 13".


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Even if age is a sensitive subject, you're smart to think about it. I had a neighbour who renovated her home. She was in her 50's and wanted to make it the home she retired in. She did a lot of research into senior friendly housing. It can relate to kitchen cabinets, plumbing fixtures, a lot of things.

I have an aging mother and her eyes are sensitive to light. I put dimmers everywhere and installed under cabinet lighting. She was thrilled.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

99cents said:


> Even if age is a sensitive subject, you're smart to think about it. I had a neighbour who renovated her home. She was in her 50's and wanted to make it the home she retired in. She did a lot of research into senior friendly housing. It can relate to kitchen cabinets, plumbing fixtures, a lot of things.
> 
> I have an aging mother and her eyes are sensitive to light. I put dimmers everywhere and installed under cabinet lighting. She was thrilled.


Great point. Applies to things you can't change after the fact like the property (steps outside, inside) & wider doors and hallways. I know for me when I retire 2nd floors are out. :no:


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I go 16 to the top.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

*to bottom...*

12 inch wall receptacle 
40 inch bathroom receptacle (34 inch vanity + 4 inch backsplash + 2 inches)
42 inch kitchen receptacle (36 inch counter + 4 inch backsplash + 2 inches)
48 inch for the switches

Edit: I don't use wall receptacles much (good thing as they are low and I'm old). Pretty much plug something in one time and that's it.

I use a Dyson tho.


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## TRurak (Apr 10, 2016)

18" to top of receptacle box and 48" to top of switch and kitchen counter boxes for me


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Bird dog said:


> Great point. Applies to things you can't change after the fact like the property (steps outside, inside) & wider doors and hallways. I know for me when I retire 2nd floors are out. :no:


It's not just the difficulty of climbing stairs, falls can be a killer. I had an elderly uncle who fell down the porch steps and two days later was dead. If there are a few steps, I would think about step lighting.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

A Little Short said:


> You will probably get replies all over the place but I put them at "hammer height" to the bottom of the box which is around 13".


Hammer height was what we used also. Somewhere I saw that receps in senior housing were being installed at 18" to the bottom. Makes sense.

Thanks for all of the replies.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I like 18" because it's a great height to work at while sitting on a 5 gallon Homer bucket with the seat lid from Amazon.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I like 18" because it's a great height to work at while sitting on a 5 gallon Homer bucket with the seat lid from Amazon.


Did you get the Fuel bucket?


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

Standard around here is 18" to center. My first house I bought I did 24" to make life easier but gave up on that for the second one and went back to 18" to center. 

Regarding switch height, some townships around me have adopted ADA guidelines and require 48" to center which I find awkward. I like 54" to center much more.


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## TRurak (Apr 10, 2016)

Hack you need a mechanics stool. 40$ at Sears ...... You don't have to get up and the height is adjustable.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drewsserviceco said:


> Standard around here is 18" to center. My first house I bought I did 24" to make life easier but gave up on that for the second one and went back to 18" to center.
> 
> Regarding switch height, some townships around me have adopted ADA guidelines and require 48" to center which I find awkward. I like 54" to center much more.


48" is the highest allowed by the ADA and for receptacles it's 15" minimum AFF.
Taking that into consideration, I like to use 20"AFF for receptacles and 42" AFF for switches.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TRurak said:


> Hack you need a mechanics stool. 40$ at Sears ...... You don't have to get up and the height is adjustable.


I like this type for trimming out.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

*Help others*

For awhile I worked both sides of the fence, I worked with a friend of mine building houses and remodling. We did it all and he had me put bottom or top of switch boxes at 48" so sheetrock only had be cut on one sheet.


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## TheLivingBubba (Jul 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> 48" is the highest allowed by the ADA and for receptacles it's 15" minimum AFF.
> Taking that into consideration, I like to use 20"AFF for receptacles and 42" AFF for switches.


I always have been told to 20" AFF to the top for receptacles and 48" AFF to the top for switches. 

Most inspectors don't seem to balk at that. I also think that the breaker panel can't exceed 54" AFF to the top breaker for ADA compliance.


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## TRurak (Apr 10, 2016)

That's a nice stool too. You have to be careful on finished floors though! I learned that the hard way as an apprentice


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TRurak said:


> That's a nice stool too. You have to be careful on finished floors though! I learned that the hard way as an apprentice


Leaving tire marks or having it shoot out from under you like a rocket?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TheLivingBubba said:


> I always have been told to 20" AFF to the top for receptacles and 48" AFF to the top for switches.
> 
> Most inspectors don't seem to balk at that.* I also think that the breaker panel can't exceed 54" AFF to the top breaker for ADA compliance.*



Many states enforce the ANSI A117.1 as opposed to the ADAAG. If that is the case, 48" is the maximum height to the top of the panel.


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> 48" is the highest allowed by the ADA and for receptacles it's 15" minimum AFF.
> Taking that into consideration, I like to use 20"AFF for receptacles and 42" AFF for switches.


We are close. I use 21" to top of receptacle and 48" to top of switch with ADA in mind. Also use 46" for top of counter and vanity receptacles and 66" for top of box for hanging microwave under cabinet. Vanity lights over mirror get a whip at 82" and get a old work octagon after installation.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

jw0445 said:


> We are close. I use 21" to top of receptacle and 48" to top of switch with ADA in mind. Also use 46" for top of counter and vanity receptacles and 66" for top of box for hanging microwave under cabinet. Vanity lights over mirror get a whip at 82" and get a old work octagon after installation.


I've never seen anything in ADA regs about the height for light fixtures but I have seen exclusions for microwave, stove, dryer, and washer receptacles.

The 42" switch height normally leaves a portion of the box spackle free and easier to find.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

TRurak said:


> Hack you need a mechanics stool. 40$ at Sears ...... You don't have to get up and the height is adjustable.


I don't do much trimming out. Mostly it's just a receptacle or two here and there. And most of the time it's finished floor, carpet or hardwood. So I throw down a 5'X4" drop cloth (I love those things, they fold up so small I can take it everywhere) and then sit on my bucket and relax. 

I'm a real lazy bum.


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## ben franklin (Nov 15, 2014)

If the house is on slab, 20" from bottom..floods too easy here..raised gets 16"-18", depending on windows...


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

Put everything at 48 and trim it out from a bar stool.

God I hated trimming tract houses when I was a kid. We'd do like 5 a day and I'd really look forward to the switches so I could get some blood flow to my legs. No buckets, crates or power tools. Just squat, install 4 or 5 receps then get a short break with the switch.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

220/221 said:


> Put everything at 48 and trim it out from a bar stool.


Since they usually railroad drywall in residential, a switch box at 48" to center is right in the middle of the spackle seam.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Since they usually railroad drywall in residential, a switch box at 48" to center is right in the middle of the spackle seam.


To the bottom. How the hell do you mount to center? Boxes marked with a centerline?

They still fill the boxes with spackle tho.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

daveEM said:


> To the bottom. How the hell do you mount to center? Boxes marked with a centerline?
> 
> They still fill the boxes with spackle tho.


It's not hard to figure out the center of the box. When I add a receptacle to a room I always measure to the screw of the existing receptacles to find the center, then use that when cutting in my new one.

Either way you do it works.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

No Drywall here in the Pittsburgh PA. area. Every house I work on is Hard Coat Plaster.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Since they usually railroad drywall in residential, a switch box at 48" to center is right in the middle of the spackle seam.


And most tapers will fill it an dcover it up for you..:whistling2: that's why I like 42" and if someone complains I just say it's perfect with ADA.


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> 48" is the highest allowed by the ADA and for receptacles it's 15" minimum AFF.
> Taking that into consideration, I like to use 20"AFF for receptacles and 42" AFF for switches.


That's the way I always did it. Works for block jobs as well. Very simple to remember if you can think of what works for block work. Outlets I go 16 to the bottom/20 to the top. Switches are 48 to the top. 42 to the bottom works for kitchen counters as well. The bath room I move down a little so it is not in the top of the tile. 

All ADA compliant also.


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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

switches i go 50 to the top just to piss off the dws!! get even for having to find covered boxes:jester:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

cabletie said:


> That's the way I always did it. Works for block jobs as well. Very simple to remember if you can think of what works for block work. Outlets I go 16 to the bottom/20 to the top. Switches are 48 to the top. 42 to the bottom works for kitchen counters as well. The bath room I move down a little so it is not in the top of the tile.
> 
> All ADA compliant also.


I'd never feel right if I was told to go back and move them.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> It's not hard to figure out the center of the box. When I add a receptacle to a room I always measure to the screw of the existing receptacles to find the center, then use that when cutting in my new one.
> 
> Either way you do it works.


Seriously, I had to think about that for a minute. Not many old style receptacles in resi here.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Seriously, I had to think about that for a minute. Not many old style receptacles in resi here.


I'm not sure what you mean.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I'm not sure what you mean.


There's no centre screw in a Decora receptacle.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

99cents said:


> There's no centre screw in a Decora receptacle.


And no crying in baseball!


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> There's no centre screw in a Decora receptacle.


Aren't they from the 80's? 

I like decora switches myself, but the receptacles are more expensive for no reason, who really looks at them?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Aren't they from the 80's?
> 
> I like decora switches myself, but the receptacles are more expensive for no reason, who really looks at them?


All my customers want Decora for renos. I had one job a couple of years ago where I used the other ones. The guy freaked out when he saw his GFCI receptacle. He was an engineer. 'Nuff said.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> All my customers want Decora for renos. I had one job a couple of years ago where I used the other ones. The guy freaked out when he saw his GFCI receptacle. He was an engineer. 'Nuff said.


Most of my customers wouldn't know what it is and the ones who do wouldn't want to pay a premium price for outlets. I keep them stocked on my truck in white, light almond, and ivory for repairs, but I don't think I have ever used any.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Most of my customers wouldn't know what it is and the ones who do wouldn't want to pay a premium price for outlets. I keep them stocked on my truck in white, light almond, and ivory for repairs, but I don't think I have ever used any.


Wow, that's surprising.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

I'm all for 48" cl , being as i've already had one trade related knee operation.....~C:thumbsup:S~


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## reddog552 (Oct 11, 2007)

*4" to center*

My home built in 1916 had a 60n amp fused panel. all wiring was K&T except the Furnace AC unit.There were app. 8 receptacles in the house all in the baseboards all on interior walls.Total rewire 100A cabinet. The outside walls are Brick with 2 hollow tiles with plaster over it, Making walls 13" thick. The only way I could come up with rec. on outside walls was cut into the clay tiles behind base boards. then a small cut from basement I could then sneak wires up from basement.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

reddog552 said:


> My home built in 1916 had a 60n amp fused panel. all wiring was K&T except the Furnace AC unit.There were app. 8 receptacles in the house all in the baseboards all on interior walls.Total rewire 100A cabinet. The outside walls are Brick with 2 hollow tiles with plaster over it, Making walls 13" thick. The only way I could come up with rec. on outside walls was cut into the clay tiles behind base boards. then a small cut from basement I could then sneak wires up from basement.


That's the kind of stuff I cut my teeth on as a kid working as a helper in a family business. I cut the holes in the baseboard as the mechanic ran the new wiring. I became good with a keyhole saw and a chisel. Brings back memories and I can smell the old plaster now.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

reddog552 said:


> My home built in 1916 had a 60n amp fused panel. all wiring was K&T except the Furnace AC unit.There were app. 8 receptacles in the house all in the baseboards all on interior walls.Total rewire 100A cabinet. The outside walls are Brick with 2 hollow tiles with plaster over it, Making walls 13" thick. The only way I could come up with rec. on outside walls was cut into the clay tiles behind base boards. then a small cut from basement I could then sneak wires up from basement.


Why didn't you use brown devices and covers?!?!?


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## reddog552 (Oct 11, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Why didn't you use brown devices and covers?!?!?


Old lady wanted Ivory. I gave her Ivory:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

HackWork said:


> Since they usually railroad drywall in residential, a switch box at 48" to center is right in the middle of the spackle seam.


True enough even in commercial -- at least out here.

We go 46" to the center of the box.

42" to the center on bathroom GFCI.

18" to the center on receptacles.

In the rare residential re-hab; we conform to prior art or the customer's wish.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

reddog552 said:


> My home built in 1916 had a 60n amp fused panel. all wiring was K&T except the Furnace AC unit.There were app. 8 receptacles in the house all in the baseboards all on interior walls.Total rewire 100A cabinet. The outside walls are Brick with 2 hollow tiles with plaster over it, Making walls 13" thick. The only way I could come up with rec. on outside walls was cut into the clay tiles behind base boards. then a small cut from basement I could then sneak wires up from basement.


I advise and pray for floor boxes.

As a pro, you have to push these upon residential clients, for they don't even know they exist.

Once they see the catalogue -- they want them. :thumbsup:

They'll want a couple in the middle of the room, too. :thumbup:

Suddenly, they are price insensitive.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

HackWork said:


> Most of my customers wouldn't know what it is and the ones who do wouldn't want to pay a premium price for outlets. I keep them stocked on my truck in white, light almond, and ivory for repairs, but I don't think I have ever used any.


Out here, they are the default devices.

I should say McDevice as they go inside of McMansions.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> Out here, they are the default devices.
> 
> I should say McDevice as they go inside of McMansions.


McMansions or actual mansions describes the housing around where I had lived in NJ. Decora was SOP in all of them.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

In my area most houses, mansions or otherwise, are very old and originally had 2 prong receptacles. Most people changed them to 3 prong, probably before Decora was around. 

Even in the odd new house that I find myself in, the receptacles have always been standard. 

I'm sure I have been in houses with Decora receptacles, but I can't actually recall one. The last place I remember I was in with all Decora was my union hall when they built it new from the ground up about 10 years ago.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

HackWork said:


> In my area most houses, mansions or otherwise, are very old and originally had 2 prong receptacles. Most people changed them to 3 prong, probably before Decora was around.
> 
> Even in the odd new house that I find myself in, the receptacles have always been standard.
> 
> I'm sure I have been in houses with Decora receptacles, but I can't actually recall one. The last place I remember I was in with all Decora was my union hall when they built it new from the ground up about 10 years ago.


You talk like the light bulb was invented in New Jersey. 

Sheesh.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> In my area most houses, mansions or otherwise, are very old and originally had 2 prong receptacles. Most people changed them to 3 prong, probably before Decora was around.
> 
> Even in the odd new house that I find myself in, the receptacles have always been standard.
> 
> I'm sure I have been in houses with Decora receptacles, but I can't actually recall one. The last place I remember I was in with all Decora was my union hall when they built it new from the ground up about 10 years ago.


Never get down to Monmouth County?


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

Damn, three pages on receptacle heights!
I was going to also ask about ground up or ground down but that would kill too many electrons and break the Internet.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Never get down to Monmouth County?


Not for work. The southernmost county in my work area is Union. I live and have worked in mainly Essex and Bergen. A little Passaic and Morris too.

Thinking about it now, out of all the pictures of outlets I see posted, here or elsewhere, they are always standard duplex receptacles. I very rarely see decora receptacles in pictures from other people's areas either.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

bill39 said:


> Damn, three pages on receptacle heights!
> I was going to also ask about ground up or ground down but that would kill too many electrons and break the Internet.


I really can't take you seriously until you measure your hammer handle. :laughing:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

bill39 said:


> Damn, three pages on receptacle heights!
> I was going to also ask about ground up or ground down but that would kill too many electrons and break the Internet.


Oh it's been asked and fought over here several times.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Not for work. The southernmost county in my work area is Union. I live and have worked in mainly Essex and Bergen. A little Passaic and Morris too.
> 
> Thinking about it now, out of all the pictures of outlets I see posted, here or elsewhere, they are always standard duplex receptacles. I very rarely see decora receptacles in pictures from other people's areas either.


I don't recall a standard outlet in the newer houses or condos down that way in like forever. the developments from the 50s an 60s have mostly been renovated to the teeth.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> I really can't take you seriously until you measure your hammer handle. :laughing:


So many threads just have to take that turn....:no::no:


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

We sometimes are asked to install them in the baseboards but you have to look at ADA rules if you have a commercial job.

Residential jobs around here have been 13" to bottom of receptacles and 43" to bottom of switches. Why? because the lufkin stick rules open to those numbers and 48" is too high. The 48" was done 30 years ago but the transition happen around 1980 or so-- architects didn't like the switches up hgh because when pictures were hung they were unsightly.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

99cents said:


> I really can't take you seriously until you measure your hammer handle. :laughing:


Length or girth?
Wait a minute!!!!!!!


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I've done 12 or 13 to bottom of recep on new work. Switches...meh 42,43,44... and for old work, copy the rest of the room or if it's custom it wont matter. Oh this is in residential strictly... and not considering small people or disabled. That's another ball game.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Check out page 2:

https://www.huduser.gov/publications/pdf/fairhousing/fairch5.pdf


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I don't recall a standard outlet in the newer houses or condos down that way in like forever. the developments from the 50s an 60s have mostly been renovated to the teeth.


The entire time I was working with this horrible cloth covered wiring this morning, I was saying to myself "I can't wait to show 99cent and MechDVD that I installed a Decora receptacle!" :laughing:

Here you can see what I work with most of the time. I couldn't find anyone to work for me today and had to do it myself


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

Seems I put switches higher than everyone else. Learned to put them
52" to bottom and still do same. Nice to have them well above, or below, 
48" so they don't get filled with drywall mud. 
P&L


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

If you tell me you have a cover plate for that in your van, Hack, I will know you're OCD.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> If you tell me you have a cover plate for that in your van, Hack, I will know you're OCD.


I actually don't have any 3 gang cover plates in my van. I have to stock up on them.

I don't do this work on the fly, I went out to look at this job and give a price a week and a half ago. I actually ordered the plate from Amazon because I like Pass & Seymour Trademaster plates and not many places around here stock them.

There are too many different colors and configurations of cover plates. I carry most 1 and 2 gang. If I don't have what the customer needs during a service call, they can pay me to go get one.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> The entire time I was working with this horrible cloth covered wiring this morning, I was saying to myself "I can't wait to show 99cent and MechDVD that I installed a Decora receptacle!" :laughing:
> 
> Here you can see what I work with most of the time. I couldn't find anyone to work for me today and had to do it myself


WOW, damn how old is that boomerang formica with SS capping? Late 50s?

You do get some older places to work in. 

Nice to see you install the outlet with charging ports.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> WOW, damn how old is that boomerang formica with SS capping? Late 50s?
> 
> You do get some older places to work in.
> 
> Nice to see you install the outlet with charging ports.


Yeah, that kitchen is damn old. That counter pictured is a peninsula near the entrance way, he will be doing the countertops last.

As for the USB, I found that one on Amazon, I think you may have recommended it in a thread I made a while back. The customer was very happy because he thought that he would lose a normal outlet, so he was happy to get one with 2 USB and 2 normal outlets.

ETA: I don't know what's going on there because that is 1/2" drywall. So the counter can't be that old. I cut thru it with my jab saw like butter, it's definitely drywall, not that old gypsum lath with plaster on top. 

So why would someone drywall over old cloth covered BX garbage wire?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Just a thought but have you offered to do a complete house device change out? I have done it on reno jobs.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Just a thought but have you offered to do a complete house device change out? I have done it on reno jobs.


Yeah, I even have a webpage for that. But to be honest, I HATE it. Dealing with this old cloth covered BX is a pain, boxes are loose, etc. Sometimes it takes up to 20 minutes each dealing with the short wires and insulation falling off and customers aren't too keen on paying $50 + material for each outlet. 

I try to focus my advertising on more profitable work and work that I enjoy.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Yeah, that kitchen is damn old. That counter pictured is a peninsula near the entrance way, he will be doing the countertops last.
> 
> As for the USB, I found that one on Amazon, I think you may have recommended it in a thread I made a while back. The customer was very happy because he thought that he would lose a normal outlet, so he was happy to get one with 2 USB and 2 normal outlets.
> 
> ...


Had issues with the wall and they rocked it in a hurry without any further repairs. Slum lords in the Asbury Park area do that type thing often. I've seen them reuse those metal Yorktown kitchens instead of buying new cabinetry. 

So that's a Topgreener? Never had any problems with them. The cheap ones tend to get cracked on the sides from use.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Those cooper? You afci/gfci' em right? Lol


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Had issues with the wall and they rocked it in a hurry without any further repairs. Slum lords in the Asbury Park area do that type thing often. I've seen them reuse those metal Yorktown kitchens instead of buying new cabinetry.
> 
> So that's a Topgreener? Never had any problems with them. The cheap ones tend to get cracked on the sides from use.


 Yeah, Topgreener. The reviews were great. 



Majewski said:


> Those cooper? You afci/gfci' em right? Lol


The lights are on a 15A lighting circuit and the receptacle is on the 20A SABC circuit and is GFCI protected from the counter receptacle.

The original box was 1 switch and 1 receptacle. I installed the 3-gang box to fit the second switch, which I wired to pendant lights over the peninsula. I told the homeowner next time I am just snaking to the old box and installing a stacked dual switch :laughing:


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## shocksystems (Apr 25, 2009)

HackWork said:


> I don't do much trimming out. Mostly it's just a receptacle or two here and there. And most of the time it's finished floor, carpet or hardwood. So I throw down a 5'X4" drop cloth (I love those things, they fold up so small I can take it everywhere) and then sit on my bucket and relax.
> 
> I'm a real lazy bum.


Hack - 

Where are you getting the drop cloths? My nephew was in the hospital and came home with two small hospital blankets. Like drop cloths only soft. My Mother In-Law gave them to me. They were the best to use as drop cloths. Over the past few months I left them on jobs and do not have them anymore. I still miss them.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

I like decora everything because then you only have to stock one plate (in different gang configurations). Also I think duplex receptacles and toggle switches look dated. But in my area decora is the standard for new work.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

shocksystems said:


> Hack -
> 
> Where are you getting the drop cloths? My nephew was in the hospital and came home with two small hospital blankets. Like drop cloths only soft. My Mother In-Law gave them to me. They were the best to use as drop cloths. Over the past few months I left them on jobs and do not have them anymore. I still miss them.


I'm pretty sure I got these at Home Depot.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

B-Nabs said:


> I like decora everything because then you only have to stock one plate (in different gang configurations). Also I think duplex receptacles and toggle switches look dated. But in my area decora is the standard for new work.


It would be nice and easy if everything was decora. Unfortunately, everything is always something much different than the last job :laughing:

As soon as I think I am done stocking the truck, I find something completely different on the next job, I just can't keep up :thumbup:


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

shocksystems said:


> Hack -
> 
> Where are you getting the drop cloths? My nephew was in the hospital and came home with two small hospital blankets. Like drop cloths only soft. My Mother In-Law gave them to me. They were the best to use as drop cloths. Over the past few months I left them on jobs and do not have them anymore. I still miss them.


I get mine at Sherwin.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

HackWork said:


> It would be nice and easy if everything was decora. Unfortunately, everything is always something much different than the last job :laughing:
> 
> As soon as I think I am done stocking the truck, I find something completely different on the next job, I just can't keep up :thumbup:







Yup! I like to keep the block plates too for toggle plates that lose a device. Easier than sometimes having to find a whole new plate.


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