# Toe Kick lighting



## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

Were wiring a house for a customer who has hired a interior designer:blink: and she wants motion sensor toe kick lighting on the kitchen island and bathroom vanities, whole idea sounds ridiculous. Anyone have pictures of the finished product or done this and whats your opinion?


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

She/He wants ambient night lights. Motion sensor switch wired to some cheap rope light. Simple. Elegant. Big impact. My 5 watt nightlight stays on 24/7 in every bathroom - no need to blind yourself just to take a squirt at 2 AM.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

mikeg_05 said:


> Were wiring a house for a customer who has hired a interior designer:blink: and she wants motion sensor toe kick lighting on the kitchen island and bathroom vanities, whole idea sounds ridiculous. Anyone have pictures of the finished product or done this and whats your opinion?


Make her spec what she wants.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

It's really hard to find a motion sensor that will trip over with that light of a load. Shop well. Most motion sensors have a minimum load that's required on them to let them switch (often 60 or 100 watts). I'm not sure why, but that's the way it is. Some don't have that limitation. I can't think of a particular model to propose for you to use off the top of my head right now.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Just have him/her find the parts and you will gladly install them. Some of *THOSE *people have really wacky ideas that don't stand the test of time.

We should be installers when others on the job are pointing the finger at what and where they want it. :blink:


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> It's really hard to find a motion sensor that will trip over with that light of a load. Shop well. Most motion sensors have a minimum load that's required on them to let them switch (often 60 or 100 watts). I'm not sure why, but that's the way it is. Some don't have that limitation. I can't think of a particular model to propose for you to use off the top of my head right now.


hmm i never even thought about it, thanks for the heads up:thumbsup: sounds like its going to be rope lighting


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## KEI (Mar 26, 2009)

Can you put a receptacle inside the cabinet switched by an occupancy sensor and plug in the rope lights inside the cabinet?


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

Wac lighting makes a real thin LED rope light. Its like 1/2 inch wide and maybe 1/4 inch thick. If I remember correctly I think the rep said your cost would be like 12 bucks a foot with the transformer. You could use a occupancy switch for your motion switch. Its new so im not sure if its on the web site yet. Check out their websight you might find it.. Found it, just google wac lighting and youll find it. But I was a bit off on the price. Not sure if its out of you price range. Rope lighting will work too but the light they put out kind of stinks in my opinion. The LED tape light puts out a real nice, bright, even light. Very proffesional looking.


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## KEI (Mar 26, 2009)

Here is a link to an occupancy sensor with no minimum load requirement

http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/PDFS/H5241-AU.pdf


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> It's really hard to find a motion sensor that will trip over with that light of a load. Shop well. Most motion sensors have a minimum load that's required on them to let them switch (often 60 or 100 watts). I'm not sure why, but that's the way it is. Some don't have that limitation. I can't think of a particular model to propose for you to use off the top of my head right now.


How 'bout an occupancy sensor insead?


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## Toronto Sparky (Apr 12, 2009)

You will be hard pressed to find a low wattage motion detector that won't break the bank..
Watt Stopper prob has one for a couple hundred

Hey.. If you find a cheap motion detector that requires a neutral it will work.. Let me know if you find one.. I've been looking for over a year.. (I need one to control an Electronic ballast)


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

The occupancy sensor looks like the best bet, the led tape looks really cool, ill tell the boss bout it. Who knows if they will go for it (home owner), they are whining bout the price and they fitted the house with anderson windows and there is going to be a swim spa down stairs, go figure:blink:, thanks for the advice guys.:thumbsup:


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## vinster888 (May 3, 2009)

KEI said:


> Here is a link to an occupancy sensor with no minimum load requirement
> 
> http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/PDFS/H5241-AU.pdf


thats a nice piece of equipment right there. i love the fact you cant touch the lens. people always think that area is a button or something


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

vinster888 said:


> thats a nice piece of equipment right there. i love the fact you cant touch the lens. people always think that area is a button or something


That's because it's ultrasonic, not infrared.


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## Toronto Sparky (Apr 12, 2009)

Still does not say it will work with electronic ballasts.


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## vinster888 (May 3, 2009)

wouldnt that fit in with the min. load req.?


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## hiloelectric (Jun 11, 2009)

Another Option for the Rope light is 1000bulbs.com you can get 120V LED rope light very reasonably priced. I buy it buy the Roll. Cuts every 18" and add your own cord to the end. I believe that 150' Roll is $85.00 to you wholesale. Buy a couple of pigtails and the mounting clips and your set. I've got about 250' installed in various projects now and still not a single complaint.


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## sparkysteve (Jan 23, 2007)

KEI said:


> Can you put a receptacle inside the cabinet switched by an occupancy sensor and plug in the rope lights inside the cabinet?


That's what I usually do for toe-kick, under cabinet lights, and accent lights above cabinets. Hides the clutter of cords.


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