# Old work recessed light installations



## Gamit (Dec 30, 2009)

With no accessibility. What methods do you use? I have worked with guys who like to notch the beams and use nailers and others that just used flexible bits and pray. I like to find the beam and make a hole next to it and drill and patch hole after.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Blind drilling through multiple joists in a vaulted ceiling always is a huge risk, i try to use the flexible bit as my last option.


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

I rarely ever, as in almost never drill & pray.

If there is truly no access I take my best guess at which bays will be free of obstructions after a walk through and explain to the customer that I will cut as few holes as possible to get the job done, or that I will need to take a 8" wide however many foot long strip of rock down that they will need to repair.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

If you learn to think like a plumber and a tinner, there's far less a chance you'll hit something.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

We cut a trench. Hang it back up and skim coat it. I have tried it every way possible and this is IMO the fastest way.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Got one coming up next week. I layout where I want my cans and then measure and see if they will work without ceiling joists in the way. I also make sure there is no bathroom above the ceiling as all bets are off then.

I cut may holes in the ceiling and use flex bits to drill thru-- sometimes in 2 directions to get from can to can. Obviously the ones in the same bay are the easiest.

I did a large living room and installed 6 or 8 cans-- can't remember-- and had no holes to patch. I drilled up from a basement with bit extensions until I came thru the top plate. I made sure that the bay I drilled was in the same area as the can above. I used a glow rod with a hook and fished from the light to the can. I then ran the switch leg up from the basement to the wall switch. Not always easy but it worked.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

TOOL_5150 said:


> Blind drilling through multiple joists in a vaulted ceiling always is a huge risk, i try to use the flexible bit as my last option.


 I agree. The flexi bit have a time and place, but I use them more as "hail mary" move when I'm in a pinch.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

MHElectric said:


> I agree. The flexi bit have a time and place, but I use them more as "hail mary" move when I'm in a pinch.



Me too. I have seen guys really screw themselves hitting a HR in the ceiling. Last resort here also.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Bulldog1 said:


> Me too. I have seen guys really screw themselves hitting a HR in the ceiling. Last resort here also.


id rather hit something i could repair, rather than going through the roof.:laughing:


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*no holes*

I would have done that whole job cutting no holes and no risk...:whistling2:


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

TOOL_5150 said:


> Blind drilling through multiple joists in a vaulted ceiling always is a huge risk, i try to use the flexible bit as my last option.


I say in any ceiling, I haven't used a flex bit since the last time I used a flex bit. And the last time I came up in a hardwood floor. I tend to just drill a few extra holes with the can light hole saw do my drilling and wire pulling then screw the hole back in its place.


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## NacBooster29 (Oct 25, 2010)

It does not appear to have strapping above the sheet rock. If there is strapping, that can be done with almost no holes. Depending on where the switches are located. 
I recently found my new favorite tool for this to be the roto zip with circle jig so quick.. and perfect circle


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Sometimes I use a 3" hole saw in between the recessed lights for an access point to drill ceiling beams I can't reach from the light hole..

Take a 8" piece of furring strip and use that to mount the 3" plug you cut..

Sometimes you have to use a bunch of different methods on the same job..


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

I just notch around the joists/framing where needed. It's easy enough to us a short fish tape to go from hole to hole.

Quality, small patches are extremely easy to make. It's a one shot process that is hard in a few minutes and completely dry and white in 20 minutes.

Patching compound fills the 1" wide slots easily and a small piece of 1/16" metal embedded in the patch will make it compliant in case you are concerned about someone hanging a swag hook in the ceiling.

I generally stay away from bits longer than 18". I had to replace some upstairs carpet once.


And, whoever posted the pic, did you have to get by the crown molding for the switch leg? That takes a couple of large openings in the wall and ceiling, right?


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

220/221 said:


> I just notch around the joists/framing where needed. It's easy enough to us a short fish tape to go from hole to hole.
> 
> Quality, small patches are extremely easy to make. It's a one shot process that is hard in a few minutes and completely dry and white in 20 minutes.
> 
> ...


Yes it does. I usually cut a 6" square or so out in the wall and ceiling for the switch leg.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

There is a member of this forum from down south who advertises on his web site.. "thousands of recessed lights installed with no damage".. :blink::blink:

I would like to hear how he does this miracle of electrical engineering.. :thumbsup:


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

B4T said:


> There is a member of this forum from down south who advertises on his web site.. "thousands of recessed lights installed with no damage".. :blink::blink:
> 
> I would like to hear how he does this miracle of electrical engineering.. :thumbsup:



He left out the part about the other thousand he has to cut to install. :whistling2: :laughing:


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

220/221 said:


> And, whoever posted the pic, did you have to get by the crown molding for the switch leg? That takes a couple of large openings in the wall and ceiling, right?


i use two 6" cookies, one on the wall, and one in the ceiling, and a right
angle drill.... especially if i am in a wall with wiring already in it.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Bulldog1 said:


> He left out the part about the other thousand he has to cut to install. :whistling2: :laughing:


:laughing::laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I always use a 3/4" spade bit with different lengths of extensions for drilling the holes..


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