# Wiggy users, what do you recommend?



## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

I am at the point where I think I have learned enough how to use a solenoid voltage tester, and started looking around to buy one.

I looked on eBay and found SquareD "Wiggy" branded ones for ~$40, although they are all used. I noticed Ideal also makes a solenoid type tester for $35 and it is brand new.

The eBay ones are US made, and I would imagine the Ideal is third world, but am I worrying too much about this? In my limited experience, xfmrs, solenoid coils, and other non-moving parts are extremely reliable, whether made a few decades ago, or by a Chinese kid last week.

If it just came down to the style of the devices, the SquareD ones win by a long shot, but I have never put form over function.


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

http://www.knoppinc.com/tools.htm
Knopp Is the best on the market.CAT III rated and Made in the USA. 
I have a Ideal Volt-con that I got when I worked in Freeport TX in the 80's and a SquareD that is about 40 years old both are made in the USA. Not the case now.

LC


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

Knopp. I keep one on the truck as a backup in case my regular Fluke T+ Pro fails or for the rare occasion that I need to knock the ghost voltage down.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Knopp. Hands down.


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## Aus_sparkie (Aug 8, 2011)

Yep, Knopp here too. 

Great quality. Use it almost daily.

:thumbsup:


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

I have one made by Ideal.
The fact that is also a continuity tester is a plus.

http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-61-076-Vol-Con-Tester/dp/B000BVKUSA


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I have a knopp- had it for 10 years and never used it.


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

I have the Klien one now, and realy like it. It is not a true solenoid tester so I can leave it on the circuit without it burning out. Somehow it does knock down the phantom voltage. 

It does vibrate, but it uses batteries. It also has a flashlight in the end, and it does continuity. 

Otherwise I always preferred the wiggi over the Ideal. The wiggi just seems more compact. Knop is probably even more compact, but I have only borrowed Knops.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

I have always carried a Knopp and think it is still the best solenoid-type tester.

If I needed to buy a new tester today it would be a Fluke T +Pro.
It does not have the problem with ghost voltages that regular DMM's have.

http://en-us.fluke.com/products/electrical-testers/fluke-t-plus-pro-electrical-tester.html


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

bill39 said:


> I have always carried a Knopp and think it is still the best solenoid-type tester.
> 
> If I needed to buy a new tester today it would be a Fluke T +Pro.
> *It does not have the problem with ghost voltages that regular DMM's have.*
> ...


Don't let them fool you, it will read ghost voltage. That is why I still keep a Knopp on the truck.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

Cow said:


> Don't let them fool you, it will read ghost voltage. That is why I still keep a Knopp on the truck.


Thanks for the info. We do a lot of PLC startups and trouble shooting and that is where ghosting shows up a lot.

Maybe I'll just stick with my Knopp. It hasn't failed me yet.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the input, I think I will go with the Knopp, as it is only $20 more than the used US made SquareD models I was perusing on eBay.



Dennis Alwon said:


> I have a knopp- had it for 10 years and never used it.


I have run into a few situations where a solenoid voltage tester would have saved me some troubleshooting time, but now that I am buying one, will probably not run into another one. 

My megger collects dust, but I do use my toner a lot more than I thought. Just trying to round out my diagnostic tool collection. I have been doing more sidework as I get more confident in my abilities.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

bill39 said:


> Thanks for the info. We do a lot of PLC startups and trouble shooting and that is where ghosting shows up a lot.
> 
> Maybe I'll just stick with my Knopp. It hasn't failed me yet.


PLC troubleshooting with solenoid tester?


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Fluke T+ Pro. Once you switch, you'll throw your wiggy in the trash or give it away.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

nbb said:


> Thanks everyone for the input, I think I will go with the Knopp, as it is only $20 more than the used US made SquareD models I was perusing on eBay.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don't know what's wrong with a DMM. I usually use a Fluke T+Pro (or whatever it's called). I have a ghost voltage eliminator for my DMM if I ever need it. Don't waste your money on a solenoid tester (not that they're expensive).


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

Cow said:


> Don't let them fool you, it will read ghost voltage. That is why I still keep a Knopp on the truck.


Don't know what you're talking about.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Cow said:


> Don't let them fool you, it will read ghost voltage. That is why I still keep a Knopp on the truck.


The T+ Pro is designed not to read ghost voltage.


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

CFL said:


> Don't know what you're talking about.


You don't? Or I don't?

I can guarantee you that I did a job in a plant a few years ago that had a 2" conduit packed full of live 480v motor leads except for the set I had shut off. Probably 80' of wire length. My Fluke read 470 volts, my Knopp said zero. 

Second instance, another 2" conduit packed full of 120v controls from the plc cabinet to a gas burner skid, probably 200' of wire length. One disconnected wire still read 120v with the Fluke, but zero with the Knopp.

I can only assume if you haven't read ghost voltage with your Fluke T+ Pro, then you just haven't had the right set of circumstances yet for it to show up.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

Cow said:


> You don't? Or I don't?
> 
> I can guarantee you that I did a job in a plant a few years ago that had a 2" conduit packed full of live 480v motor leads except for the set I had shut off. Probably 80' of wire length. My Fluke read 470 volts, my Knopp said zero.
> 
> ...


I'll have to take your word for it. I have never had a problem. I have used mine to verify against another person's meter more than once, and it worked as promised.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

Cow said:


> You don't? Or I don't?
> 
> I can guarantee you that I did a job in a plant a few years ago that had a 2" conduit packed full of live 480v motor leads except for the set I had shut off. Probably 80' of wire length. My Fluke read 470 volts, my Knopp said zero.
> 
> ...


Oh, and I meant " *I *don't know what you're talking about".


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

As much as I like Fluke as a brand, I would rather save $20 and buy a tool that was not made in a third world country, so I am going to stick with Knopp. I don't mind buying Chinese made cordless tools, as it is hard to find any otherwise, but when there is a good US/German made option for any other tool, I will cover a pretty big price delta to buy the tool from a country I believe has better labor practices.

The Fluke T+Pro is made in China, as far as I can tell.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

nbb said:


> The Fluke T+Pro is made in China, as far as I can tell.


It is, as are most Fluke products. That being said, Fluke has somehow managed to pull off what most companies that make their products in China cannot - make a high quality, professional grade product.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

CFL said:


> PLC troubleshooting with solenoid tester?


Use it to check out 120VAC I/O wiring. Nothing works better than a Wiggy type tester.
Triac output modules are "leaky" and a typical DMM will show anywhere from 90-110 volts.

Input wiring will show ghost voltages if they're in long conduit runs with other live wires.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

MTW said:


> It is, as are most Fluke products. That being said, Fluke has somehow managed to pull off what most companies that make their products in China cannot - make a high quality, professional grade product.


Even the ones that use wiggle words like "Professionally made in" or "Made to _manufacturers_ specifications" in China?

For me, it is not just about the quality of the product, but the fact that my purchase contributed to telling these companies it is alright to use third world labor to "make ends meet".

There are plenty of people out there that will pay more money to not have a sweat shop product. Fluke is clearly riding on it's name and charging the same price it would for a responsibly made product, and using sweat shop labor to clear some extra profit. They could have the cleanest, most well-oiled factory in all of China, but it is the labor savings they are raking in.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

nbb said:


> Even the ones that use wiggle words like "Professionally made in" or "Made to _manufacturers_ specifications" in China?
> 
> For me, it is not just about the quality of the product, but the fact that my purchase contributed to telling these companies it is alright to use third world labor to "make ends meet".
> 
> There are plenty of people out there that will pay more money to not have a sweat shop product. Fluke is clearly riding on it's name and charging the same price it would for a responsibly made product, and using sweat shop labor to clear some extra profit. They could have the cleanest, most well-oiled factory in all of China, but it is the labor savings they are raking in.


I actually agree with everything you're saying 100%. But here's the thing - nobody makes testers as well designed, engineered and durable as Fluke. Nobody. Do I like that they're made in China? Not one bit. I'd prefer them to be made in Taiwan or Korea if they're going to be made anywhere overseas. But until someone else comes out with something as excellently engineered as Fluke, I'm sticking with them.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

nbb said:


> Even the ones that use wiggle words like "Professionally made in" or "Made to _manufacturers_ specifications" in China?
> 
> For me, it is not just about the quality of the product, but the fact that my purchase contributed to telling these companies it is alright to use third world labor to "make ends meet".
> 
> There are plenty of people out there that will pay more money to not have a sweat shop product. Fluke is clearly riding on it's name and charging the same price it would for a responsibly made product, and using sweat shop labor to clear some extra profit. They could have the cleanest, most well-oiled factory in all of China, but it is the labor savings they are raking in.


You are probably right. But... buy the fluke.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

bill39 said:


> Use it to check out 120VAC I/O wiring.  Nothing works better than a Wiggy type tester.
> Triac output modules are "leaky" and a typical DMM will show anywhere from 90-110 volts.
> 
> Input wiring will show ghost voltages if they're in long conduit runs with other live wires.


Good enough. There is a time and place for everything. It's just funny because normally people will warn others about using a Wiggy with PLC's. Putting a load on an input at the wrong time could cause the machine to malfunction in a really bad way.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

MTW said:


> I actually agree with everything you're saying 100%. But here's the thing - nobody makes testers as well designed, engineered and durable as Fluke. Nobody. Do I like that they're made in China? Not one bit. I'd prefer them to be made in Taiwan or Korea if they're going to be made anywhere overseas. But until someone else comes out with something as excellently engineered as Fluke, I'm sticking with them.





CFL said:


> You are probably right. But... buy the fluke.


Dangit, had I never used a Fluke product before, I would have told you both to pound sand. Unfortunately, I have, and I get where you are coming from.

Anyone remember when Japan was the third world boogeyman, and the endearing term jap-wrap was coined?

So, I am going to put this purchase on the back-burner to do some more research. Sorry for the waste of time, but I greatly appreciate all the input here.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

nbb said:


> Dangit, had I never used a Fluke product before, I would have told you both to pound sand. Unfortunately, I have, and I get where you are coming from.
> 
> Anyone remember when Japan was the third world boogeyman, and the endearing term jap-wrap was coined?
> 
> So, I am going to put this purchase on the back-burner to do some more research. Sorry for the waste of time, but I greatly appreciate all the input here.


It's not a waste of time. The T+ is just like a Wiggy, but it is more accurate, has a higher CAT rating ( could be more important to your employer than to you), has a digital readout, ohm meter (not very accurate), continuity tester, no on/off switch, GFCI tester, phase rotation indicator, flashlight, low impedance, vibrates, beeps, lead storage, backlight. It's a no-brainer.


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## Voltage Hazard (Aug 10, 2009)

CFL said:


> I'll have to take your word for it. I have never had a problem. I have used mine to verify against another person's meter more than once, and it worked as promised.


 Here is why some of you see no issue with a T+ for ghost voltage, and some don't: 

A DMM has a 10 Meg ohm input impedance, so it will not "knock down" a ghost voltage AT ALL. I think we all know that. 

A solenoid wiggy has a input impedance of around 10k ohms with AC applied, but looks like almost zero ohms if you just measure resistance on the coil. So, it is so low impedance, it will knock down ANY ghost voltage. 

The Fluke T+ and T+ Pro have a input impedance of about 200 K ohm. So, it is better than any DMM for ghost voltage, but not as good as a solenoid wiggy. So, it will work for some applications, but not all.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

nbb said:


> Dangit, had I never used a Fluke product before, I would have told you both to pound sand. Unfortunately, I have, and I get where you are coming from.
> 
> Anyone remember when Japan was the third world boogeyman, and the endearing term jap-wrap was coined?
> 
> So, I am going to put this purchase on the back-burner to do some more research. Sorry for the waste of time, but I greatly appreciate all the input here.


Just get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-61-076-Vol-Con-Tester/dp/B000BVKUSA?tag=viglink23475-20

They work just fine and its not like its a life changing decision.

I would use something else but I havent seen the regular black wiggy that I used to have


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## markbrady (Jun 2, 2014)

Knopp is a great solenoid tester. Still made here in the USA. I do wish they had a continuity tester also but they are great for testing and you never have to worry about batteries like the digital meters. Both have their uses but for checking voltages knopp is at the top imo


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

markbrady said:


> Knopp is a great solenoid tester. Still made here in the USA. I do wish they had a continuity tester also but they are great for testing and you never have to worry about batteries like the digital meters. Both have their uses but for checking voltages knopp is at the top imo


I never worry about batteries. I don't think that's much of an issue.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

Voltage Hazard said:


> Here is why some of you see no issue with a T+ for ghost voltage, and some don't:
> 
> A DMM has a 10 Meg ohm input impedance, so it will not "knock down" a ghost voltage AT ALL. I think we all know that.
> 
> ...


Can't argue with that. I haven't had a situation *yet* where it was a problem.


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## markbrady (Jun 2, 2014)

CFL said:


> I never worry about batteries. I don't think that's much of an issue.


Cool story


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## Jhellwig (Jun 18, 2014)

Cow said:


> Don't let them fool you, it will read ghost voltage. That is why I still keep a Knopp on the truck.


No it doesn't. It will show 14 volts or so when a dmm would show full voltage.

I have worn out one of the fluke t+pro from using them so much. I have had 2 of the ideal soilenoid ones break within a year. The fluke is tough. Best troubleshooting meter ever.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

markbrady said:


> Cool story


Why do you write that? I wasn't telling a story. How often do you replace your batteries smart guy?


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

Jhellwig said:


> No it doesn't. It will show 14 volts or so when a dmm would show full voltage.


I disagree.

I've already posted that I've seen it happen at least twice, this is firsthand with MY OWN EYES, not hearsay.


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## John Peters (Jan 1, 2009)

I just won an eBay online auction for a Greenlee 6808 tester. (Eat your heart out, if you know and appreciate this tester) I see people online asking for help to find one. I paid $233.57. I consider it the best tester ever for my residential work. I have two or three of them having had to replace parts to keep them working along with a spare. I also have a Greenlee 6706 which is not as well designed. It's an earlier model.

Here's my review of the Greenlee 6801.

_3.0 out of 5 stars_Greenlee 6708 reincarnation misses the boat
ByJohn A. Peterson April 24, 2016 Verified Purchase

I have been hoping Greenlee would go back into production of the original 6708 as it is the best tester ever made. It has a nice loud continuity tester that can be heard in another room or through the wood floor and 2 AA battery cells that lasts a very long time (Years)

This reincarnation, unfortunately, does not use batteries. The ideal solution would be to use a 9 V battery because the 6708 3 Volt battery is a little untrustworthy if the tips get a tiny bit corroded. A 9 Volt battery supply would be more dependable.

Unfortunately Greenlee decided to use a capacitor instead of a battery so you have to plug it into a 120 V plug outlet for a few seconds before the continuity tester will work! What a mistake!

I keep it around only as a backup in case my 6708 dies again. I've been stealing parts from two or three other 6708's that I've been able to acquire over the years.

Greenlee didn't reproduce the securing means from the 6708 for the corded extension probe. I liked how it was on the old one. This one has a very bulky clip on the BACK side that gets in the way of putting it into the tool belt. If anything, the clip should be moved to the SIDE of the tester so it's a flat package easier to put in your tool belt. I don't know if I should grind off the clip or what. I think I might try to grind off the bottom clip and part of the top clip so that I can push the prong of the tester in far enough to where it all kind of stay.

Edit in - I drilled a hole in the top part of the crib holder so the point can poke through and ground off a little bit of the flan so it could slip up in tightly and I can grind off the bottom clip but I'm not sure from you to do that. By having the products to cover the top. It makes it easier to wind the cord around. I hope somebody else has an opinion on this and will talk to Greenlee about it. Finally, the courd is a bit stiff. Not as soft and flexible as the original model.

If you can draw this to the attention of the designers. It Greenlee it would be great. Maybe itself correct a few minor problems

Louder continuity tone
9 V battery
More flexible cord
Side clip
Black color body because this bright yellow plastic is going to get dirty very quickly.

As a light-bulb checker, the old unit's prongs both came up the same height, which meant that you could hold a light-bulb between the two prongs to test it for continuity without having to remove it from your tool pouch or undo the cord. Unfortunately, the new unit as the main prong much higher and the accessory prong is hidden underneath part of the clip. (Of course this wouldn't work anyway because you have to take it out of your pouch and charge it up first!)

[email protected] 415-239-5393 text


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## AllWIRES (Apr 10, 2014)

T-Pro or bust!


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

For something along the lines of a Wiggy I like the Fluke T+ Pro, it can't be beat for a small accurate tester.


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## John Peters (Jan 1, 2009)

I see the T-Pro online. Problem - It must be really new because it has no reviews as far as I can tell after looking at five or six sites. Maybe someone has reviewed it here I'll have to take a look.

Does it have a nice loud tone when you put the two probes together so you can test for burned-out light bulb and 3-way switches and so on?

For testing light bulbs I like the Greenlee 6708 because I can keep it in my holster with the prongs pointing up and touch a light bulb across the two probes and automatically test it without having to un holster it.

Also the tone sound is loud enough so I can stick it into a plug outlet and then walk downstairs and turn off the breaker and hear the different sound makes with power on compared to continuity or no continuity.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

John Peters said:


> I see the T-Pro online. Problem - It must be really new because it has no reviews as far as I can tell after looking at five or six sites. Maybe someone has reviewed it here I'll have to take a look.




Seems to have close to 400 reviews on Amazon.


http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-T-PRO-Electrical-Tester/dp/B000VRHD4S


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## gnuuser (Jan 13, 2013)

Aus_sparkie said:


> Yep, Knopp here too.
> 
> Great quality. Use it almost daily.
> 
> :thumbsup:


i have a knopp too but also have one my niece bought me (gardner bender) she calls it a gummy bear:laughing:
actually its not a bad little wiggie


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## Missouri Bound (Aug 30, 2009)

nbb said:


> I looked on eBay and found SquareD "Wiggy" branded ones for ~$40, although they are all used.


Nothing wrong with a used Wiggy....they all get used, don't they?
I bought mine on Ebay 10 years ago...about $8.
Use it all the time. When and IF it fails, I will look for another used one.
The newer ones just aren't Wiggys.:whistling2:


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Kudo's to Iwire for this tipoff- http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2016/Digital-Clamp-Meters-Recalled-By-Klein-Tools/


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> Kudo's to Iwire for this tipoff- http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2016/Digital-Clamp-Meters-Recalled-By-Klein-Tools/


Thanks for that info. I will pass it on to some friends. Myself, I would no more buy a Klein meter than I would a Fluke side cutter.


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

That Fluke T+ pro looks nice I may pick one up for myself, however I still think every electrician should have a Knopp K-60. 
I'm not saying to carry both around, but it would be good to have a wiggy on the truck as it is a long proven reliable tester that never needs batteries.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Signal1 said:


> That Fluke T+ pro looks nice I may pick one up for myself, however I still think every electrician should have a Knopp K-60.
> I'm not saying to carry both around, but it would be good to have a wiggy on the truck as it is a long proven reliable tester that never needs batteries.


The T+Pro reads voltage without batteries.


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> The T+Pro reads voltage without batteries.


Good to know, this place http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/ is right down the street from me. I think I'll go pick one up based on the comments here.

I'm still keeping my wiggy tho:vs_smirk:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Signal1 said:


> Good to know, this place http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/ is right down the street from me. I think I'll go pick one up based on the comments here.
> 
> I'm still keeping my wiggy tho:vs_smirk:


If you are going to keep your Wiggy, then I would get a T5-600 for around the same price as the T+Pro. It gives you an amprobe in the same package.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Signal1 said:


> That Fluke T+ pro looks nice I may pick one up for myself, however I still think every electrician should have a Knopp K-60.
> I'm not saying to carry both around, but it would be good to have a wiggy on the truck as it is a long proven reliable tester that never needs batteries.



I wouldn't buy a Knopp or any solenoidal tester, they have been made obsolete by modern testers.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> If you are going to keep your Wiggy, then I would get a T5-600 for around the same price as the T+Pro. It gives you an amprobe in the same package.


I agree, I use the T5-600 for everything. It's pretty much the only tester I use.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> I wouldn't buy a Knopp or any solenoidal tester, they have been made obsolete by modern testers.





MTW said:


> I agree, I use the T5-600 for everything. It's pretty much the only tester I use.


I've been waiting for you Peter, I even told Meadow to bring you back :thumbsup:


But I have to disagree with your post here. I have been using my old Wiggy more and more for resi troubleshooting while leaving my T5 in the truck.

Remember, the T5 doesn't have any type of LoZ feature.

You mentioned modern testers, and I agree about those. The T+Pro is low impedance and the 117 DMM has a LoZ option, so these can work similar to a wiggy. But the T5 is just the same as all old fashion digital meters. And because of that, it often shows me 120V on dead circuits. That's why I've been using the Wiggy so much more.

I actually started a thread here a couple weeks ago complaining that the T5 hasn't been upgraded in years and they should add a low impedance feature to it.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> I've been waiting for you Peter, I even told Meadow to bring you back :thumbsup:


Just coming back from another "vacation". 




> But I have to disagree with your post here. I have been using my old Wiggy more and more for resi troubleshooting while leaving my T5 in the truck.
> 
> Remember, the T5 doesn't have any type of LoZ feature.
> 
> ...


I agree, the T5 should be Low Z but I can get by without it. I bought the T+Pro a few years ago and I've hardly used it, I still use the T5. As for picking up ghost voltage, the giveaway is the actual voltage value. If it's some weird value like 98 volts, then I know I'm dealing with ghost voltage and the circuit is dead. If I'm really not sure I'll break out the T+ but that almost never happens. I like the current measurement capability of the T5.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> Just coming back from another "vacation".
> 
> 
> I agree, the T5 should be Low Z but I can get by without it. I bought the T+Pro a few years ago and I've hardly used it, I still use the T5. As for picking up ghost voltage, the giveaway is the actual voltage value. If it's some weird value like 98 volts, then I know I'm dealing with ghost voltage and the circuit is dead. If I'm really not sure I'll break out the T+ but that almost never happens. I like the current measurement capability of the T5.


It's been probably 3-4 years now, but we spoke about this same exact thing. And at that time, I was with you 100%.

Since then, I have found a lot of situations in which the T5 has read 120V (or a close variant, say 113-127V) when the circuit was dead. Mind you, this has been 100% resi work as I don't do commercial anymore. 

Another situation I had recently was one in which my tick tracer showed the circuit on, my 3-light outlet tester showed the circuit on, my T5 showed 120V, but my Wiggy showed it being dead. That was a loose back-stab that was making just enough contact to read voltage and illuminate the lights in the tester, but not actuate the solenoid in the wiggy.

I still feel funny using that old wiggy, but it works! :thumbup:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> It's been probably 3-4 years now, but we spoke about this same exact thing. And at that time, I was with you 100%.
> 
> Since then, I have found a lot of situations in which the T5 has read 120V (or a close variant, say 113-127V) when the circuit was dead. Mind you, this has been 100% resi work as I don't do commercial anymore.
> 
> ...


Interesting, I've not come across that situation. Was the red light on the T5 illuminated when you read 120 on that dead circuit? The 113 volts or some non-nominal value would still make me suspicious.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> Interesting, I've not come across that situation. Was the red light on the T5 illuminated when you read 120 on that dead circuit? The 113 volts or some non-nominal value would still make me suspicious.


 In those situations I don't remember the red light not coming on, but I don't remember looking for it either. 

As for the voltage, I'm not saying it was down to 113. I'm just saying that it was within nominal 120 V, which I would normally consider to be around that range.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> In those situations I don't remember the red light not coming on, but I don't remember looking for it either.
> 
> As for the voltage, I'm not saying it was down to 113. I'm just saying that it was within nominal 120 V, which I would normally consider to be around that range.



The T5 is the best tester ever. Don't disrespect it ever again!! :furious:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> The T5 is the best tester ever. Don't disrespect it ever again!! :furious:


It was good for a while.

Now we need a T7 with the following upgrades:

Low Impedance.
TrueRMS
4/0 and 200A capable.

That last one has screwed me up. I like to show people how much current they actually use when I am there selling them a portable generator connection. But I have to go get my Milwaukee T5 wannabe to amp probe a 200A service.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> It was good for a while.
> 
> Now we need a T7 with the following upgrades:
> 
> ...


:thumbup:

I also hope Fluke will upgrade the T5. If/when they do, they will pretty much dominate that market segment. Right now, the competition is eating their lunch, and not because they are better but they simply have the features that the T5 does not. Look at the HVAC world and very few service techs use the T5 because of its limitations. 



> That last one has screwed me up. I like to show people how much current they actually use when I am there selling them a portable generator connection. But I have to go get my Milwaukee T5 wannabe to amp probe a 200A service.


I use an Ideal/Fieldpiece clamp on meter for the bigger wires and occasional A/C service call (because it reads capacitance as well). Between the T5, T+Pro and Ideal meter, I'm totally covered. Not one solenoidal meter in my arsenal.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> I use an Ideal/Fieldpiece clamp on meter for the bigger wires and occasional A/C service call (because it reads capacitance as well). Between the T5, T+Pro and Ideal meter, I'm totally covered. Not one solenoidal meter in my arsenal.


I never bought a T+Pro because the only benefit it has (for me) above the T5 is the low impedance, but it's still not as good as a Wiggy, as the gentleman spelled out in this post: http://www.electriciantalk.com/f14/wiggy-users-what-do-you-recommend-107874/index2/#post1977081

So for me the T+Pro would just be a waste of $90 since I already have a Wiggy and T5.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Jrzy said:


> If you are going to keep your Wiggy, then I would get a T5-600 for around the same price as the T+Pro. It gives you an amprobe in the same package.


The T5 is about 50% more than a T+ Pro. While the T5 does read amps it lacks phase rotation and other features like a low z feature the T+ is known for. I think they are both essential equipment for a journeyman. A T+ is made to be an upgrade to a Wiggy, the T5 a substitute to larger clamp meter.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> I never bought a T+Pro because the only benefit it has (for me) above the T5 is the low impedance, but it's still not as good as a Wiggy, as the gentleman spelled out in this post: http://www.electriciantalk.com/f14/wiggy-users-what-do-you-recommend-107874/index2/#post1977081
> 
> So for me the T+Pro would just be a waste of $90 since I already have a Wiggy and T5.


Interesting, but I still wouldn't trade the convenience of the T+Pro for a Wiggy tester. Out of curiosity, are you using a basic Wiggy or a Vol-Con type with continuity? I've always said that a tester without a continuity feature is worthless to me.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> The T5 is about 50% more than a T+ Pro. While the T5 does read amps it lacks phase rotation and other features like a low z feature the T+ is known for. I think they are both essential equipment for a journeyman. A T+ is made to be an upgrade to a Wiggy, the T5 a substitute to larger clamp meter.


The price difference isn't that big and the only benefit the T+Pro has is the LoZ. Phase rotation is worthless to most people, definitely unecessary in an everyday tester.

If you have a wiggy and T5, there is no need for the T+Pro.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> Interesting, but I still wouldn't trade the convenience of the T+Pro for a Wiggy tester. Out of curiosity, are you using a basic Wiggy or a Vol-Con type with continuity? I've always said that a tester without a continuity feature is worthless to me.


A real Wiggy. Just like the older Square D model only mine is made by Klein. 

No continuity tester.

Here's a funny story, I was using my T5 to ring out wires on a pair of boxes that the homeowner took apart, this was a 3 way light system with old cloth covered wiring. I couldn't figure it out. 

What I found was that the continuity tester just wasn't reading thru the older wires, probably because the oxidation (or whatever happens to old copper) on the surface of the wires. And the batteries were new.

So instead of using the continuity tester to figure out the wires, I just used 120v. And that's how I've been doing it for a while now.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Jrzy said:


> The price difference isn't that big and the only benefit the T+Pro has is the LoZ. Phase rotation is worthless to most people, definitely unecessary in an everyday tester.
> 
> If you have a wiggy and T5, there is no need for the T+Pro.


For installing and testing sensors quickly there are many times I like the ohms reading on the T+ that the Wiggy doesn't have. It all depends on what you are doing, I guess in resi and just basic wiring a Wiggy is fine.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> For installing and testing sensors quickly there are many times I like the ohms reading on the T+ that the Wiggy doesn't have.


The T5 has it.

I said if you have a wiggy *and* a T5.

I know you love to argue with me, but you quoted me as I was speaking to someone who specifically said they weren't going to give up their wiggy.

Knowing that, the T5 makes the best companion.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Jrzy said:


> The T5 has it.
> 
> I said if you have a wiggy *and* a T5.


The T-5 also has stray voltage issues, or a Wiggy type device wouldn't be needed at all. To me the T+ is just a modern Wiggy.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> The T-5 also has stray voltage issues, or a Wiggy type device wouldn't be needed at all. To me the T+ is just a modern Wiggy.


Read my edit.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Working inside a large piece of equipment there are times that light on the T+ is also a huge feature.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Don't feel honored, I'm Scottish I like to debate with anyone.


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

Jrzy said:


> Another situation I had recently was one in which my tick tracer showed the circuit on, my 3-light outlet tester showed the circuit on, my T5 showed 120V, but my Wiggy showed it being dead. That was a loose back-stab that was making just enough contact to read voltage and illuminate the lights in the tester, but not actuate the solenoid in the wiggy.
> 
> I still feel funny using that old wiggy, but it works! :thumbup:


Some of the circuits I work on are thousands of feet or miles long, and my wiggy is my go-to for hunting down bad connections. Believe it or not I still use my Simpson for fluctuating opens on my signal circuits. Impossible with a DMM.

But I still like that T+Pro, it's on sale near me for $81.00, I'm going to get one to keep in my "inside bag". Thanks for telling me about it.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Signal1 said:


> Some of the circuits I work on are thousands of feet or miles long, and my wiggy is my go-to for hunting down bad connections. Believe it or not I still use my Simpson for fluctuating opens on my signal circuits. Impossible with a DMM.
> 
> But I still like that T+Pro, it's on sale near me for $81.00, I'm going to get one to keep in my "inside bag". Thanks for telling me about it.


You may want to shop that price around a little. Amazon offers Prime (no shipping) when you open a new account for a one month trial.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> A real Wiggy. Just like the older Square D model only mine is made by Klein.
> 
> No continuity tester.
> 
> ...


:sleep1:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> You may want to shop that price around a little. Amazon offers Prime (no shipping) when you open a new account for a one month trial.


Amazon sells the T+Pro for $95 just like the T5.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> :sleep1:


Why?


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> Why?


I figured you would have some funny come back, but I guess not.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> I figured you would have some funny come back, but I guess not.


I poured my heart out to you, and you mock me.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Jrzy said:


> Amazon sells the T+Pro for $95 just like the T5.


That maybe why my thinking seemed so off to you. I have seen them for @$60 and the T5 over $100.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLUKE-T-PRO-Electrical-Tester-AC-DC-Voltage-Detector-w-Flashlight-/201590319503?hash=item2eefb8298f:g:hQoAAOSwneRXQ6aQ

http://www.westsidewholesale.com/fl...gle_Shopping&gclid=CNXI-9DD-8wCFQFahgodzSsPuA


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jrzy said:


> I poured my heart out to you, and you mock me.


:thumbup:

How do you troubleshoot with 120 volts? Just connect it and see what becomes live?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> That maybe why my thinking seemed so off to you. I have seen them for @$60 and the T5 over $100.
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLUKE-T-PRO-Electrical-Tester-AC-DC-Voltage-Detector-w-Flashlight-/201590319503?hash=item2eefb8298f:g:hQoAAOSwneRXQ6aQ
> ...


One of those is used, the other one is an open box.

The T+Pro generally sells for around $80 while the T5-600 goes for around $95.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> How do you troubleshoot with 120 volts? Just connect it and see what becomes live?


In the case of figuring out wires like in the 3-way story I told, yes. Lever Nuts make this really easy.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

Jrzy said:


> A real Wiggy. Just like the older Square D model only mine is made by Klein.
> 
> No continuity tester.
> 
> ...


I don't like applying 120 to wires that im unsure where they originate or go. I use a continuity tester a lot and bust out a toner when is time to get busy. A toner works great when determining a romex wire in AN attic. Usually I'm trying to cut a wire for a split and need a confirmation. Sweet, and just added to my arsenal after 20 years in the biz!

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


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