# Specialty fishing tools.



## Aligned (Feb 3, 2011)

Hey guys. I love the tool forum. It seems like most of the tools presented here are normal hand tools and power tools and tool storage, but I haven't seen much in the way of fishing tools. I know people do some pretty cool things with chains, magnets, sticks, etc. and I was wondering if we could have a thread with pictures and information about this topic. I will take some pictures tomorrow of my bag of tricks.


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## MF Dagger (Dec 24, 2007)

The best fishing tip I know is to keep your beer down the hole far enough that it stays cold but not too close to the surface that it freezes. And don't sit against the heater in a nylon coat.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Custom-made steel chain on an LSD Creepzit:
​



























I can run the sticks into a wall, and only need to be near a box. I run the magnet through a box KO, snag the chain, pull it into the box, and attach a pull string or mule tape to it. I use the tape/string to pull the wire.​


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Long flex bits with placement tool.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Box connector holding tool:



















Firmly grasps the box connectors' threads so you can get the locknut started.​


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

480sparky said:


> Box connector holding tool:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I love the guys who put the romex connector on backward inside the box and then pull the slack back..

The locknut becomes a spare part.. :no:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

B4T said:


> I love the guys who put the romex connector on backward inside the box and then pull the slack back..
> 
> The locknut becomes a spare part.. :no:


I know you love guys. :whistling2::laughing:


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

solder, and a string! Yeah, i learned that from an old timer.


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## tufts46argled (Dec 23, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Long flex bits with placement tool.


Does not work worth a Sh&t!


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

tufts46argled said:


> Does not work worth a Sh&t!



Well, not if you try to use it as pictured.... you need to use it correctly.


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

480sparky said:


> Well, not if you try to use it as pictured.... you need to use it correctly.


I remember my first time using a long bit... I had to fix a few wholes


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

mikeh32 said:


> I remember my first time using a long bit... I had to fix a few wholes


Let me help you fix another one. Hole.....


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)




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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

LSD. :thumbup:


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

480sparky said:


> LSD. :thumbup:


 
By far my favorite:thumbsup:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

mcclary's electrical said:


> By far my favorite:thumbsup:


My War Wagon is a used telco van. When I bought it, it had one of these still in it. Woo hoo!


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

480sparky said:


> LSD. :thumbup:





mcclary's electrical said:


> By far my favorite:thumbsup:



Fun but I think I would quickly lose interest in the snaking.


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## davis9 (Mar 21, 2009)

That base-boar-zit looks pretty sweet.

Tom


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

BBQ said:


> Fun but I think I would quickly lose interest in the snaking.


 
I do. It's really tempting to knock holes in the wall sometimes with a BFH. Forget the sticks


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## robnj772 (Jan 15, 2008)

Darn

I thought this was a thread about fishing.

I was going to post pics of my new saltwater rod and reel.


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## kevmanTA (Jul 20, 2010)

robnj772 said:


> Darn
> 
> I thought this was a thread about fishing.
> 
> I was going to post pics of my new saltwater rod and reel.


Yea, I was looking forward to seeing fishing stuff.. Just picked up a Shimano Voltaeus rod from Cabela's...


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

480sparky said:


> My War Wagon is a used telco van. When I bought it, it had one of these still in it. Woo hoo!


I use an old cat fishing pole. It's the same thing but lighter and I change the tips as needed.
It can even get cats out of trees.


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## jza (Oct 31, 2009)




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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

​


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## pjmurph2002 (Sep 18, 2009)

480sparky said:


> Box connector holding tool:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Who makes this and where did you buy it at?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

pjmurph2002 said:


> Who makes this and where did you buy it at?


I think it's called "The Fork", and I found it on ebay.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Custom-made steel chain on an LSD Creepzit:
> ​
> 
> 
> ...


That's not a bad rig there, I am starting to suspect you know what your doing....


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## mrmike (Dec 10, 2010)

Ugly Stick with a Shimano Stella spooled with Trilene................. Snag's em every time...............................


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

480sparky said:


>


 

WTF are you sanding?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

mcclary's electrical said:


> WTF are you sanding?



My driveway....... can't you tell? :laughing:


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

I prefer an Orvis fly rod and reel.


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## tommu56 (Nov 19, 2010)

Doesn't any body else use a bunch of 1/4" nuts on a piece of mason line?

or 1/4" copper tube cut in to 1" pieces on line but copper is getting expensive


tom


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

tommu56 said:


> Doesn't any body else use a bunch of 1/4" nuts on a piece of mason line?
> 
> or 1/4" copper tube cut in to 1" pieces on line but copper is getting expensive
> 
> ...


I used to used the nuts and string but I found jack chain to work much better.


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I used to used the nuts and string but I found jack chain to work much better.


I prefer beaded chain.


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I used to used the nuts and string but I found jack chain to work much better.


 

I gotta roll of that in the trailer for fishing. Why do they call it jack chain?


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## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

pjmurph2002 said:


> Who makes this and where did you buy it at?


 I just use a flat-blade screwdriver and push on the threads.


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

As crazy as it sounds , 18/2 or 3 or #14 stranded wire and an open end snake. Ever catch a alarm or tstat wire you did'nt want to , I just make my own now and use it as the pull, always works.


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Fish*

STring with nut on end. Then magnetic scoping thingy or needlenose to grab and pull through knockout.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Mike in Canada said:


> I just use a flat-blade screwdriver and push on the threads.



Now take two hands and start the lock nut.


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## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

480sparky said:


> Now take two hands and start the lock nut.


 You need a hand to hold the fork thingie, too, no? I actually just use one hand to start a lock-nut in those situations. I can't fit two hands in a device box, anyway.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

jza said:


>


Do you own that saw? How do you like it?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Mike in Canada said:


> You need a hand to hold the fork thingie, too, no?



Do you see any hands in the photo?



Mike in Canada said:


> I actually just use one hand to start a lock-nut in those situations. I can't fit two hands in a device box, anyway.


It usually takes to hands to get the locknut over the conductors and into the box, then I'm like you... one hand fits in the box. Just two fingers, actually.


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## jza (Oct 31, 2009)

Rudeboy said:


> Do you own that saw? How do you like it?


No, I have a Stanley with a broken tip that I fixed with a grinder.

The best drywall saw I've used was an older Greenlee. Thing could cut wood and go right back to drywall without issue. Don't think they make it anymore though.


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## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

480sparky said:


> Do you see any hands in the photo?
> 
> I must not be understanding how this thing works... do you not have to apply force to the fork to keep the fitting still so that you can turn the lock-nut onto it?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Mike in Canada said:


> I must not be understanding how this thing works... do you not have to apply force to the fork to keep the fitting still so that you can turn the lock-nut onto it?



It works like the photo shows.... it grabs the connector, allowing you to let go of the tool. Then you go to lunch, have a nooner, hit the bar for a cold one, head to the supply house, then come back late in the afternoon and take two hands to get the locknut over the wires and onto the connector. Once it's started to engage the threads, you just pull the fork off and tighten the nut.


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## jza (Oct 31, 2009)

Mike in Canada said:


> I must not be understanding how this thing works... do you not have to apply force to the fork to keep the fitting still so that you can turn the lock-nut onto it?


It's a dumb tool. You'll waste more time going to get it in your bag then you would messing around getting the lock nut on without it.


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## KayJay (Jan 20, 2008)

480sparky said:


> I think it's called "The Fork", and I found it on ebay.


You wouldn’t happen to have any more info on that tool would you?
I've tried a Google and eBay search for The Fork, but no joy.
I could have used a couple of those for the billionth time a few days ago to hold the connectors on a two gang old work.
If the price is right, it’s probably cheaper than trying to fabricate something of my own.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

I saw a channel lock pliers that were for lock nuts. I wonder how well they work.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

KayJay said:


> You wouldn’t happen to have any more info on that tool would you?
> I've tried a Google and eBay search for The Fork, but no joy.
> I could have used a couple of those for the billionth time a few days ago to hold the connectors on a two gang old work.
> If the price is right, it’s probably cheaper than trying to fabricate something of my own.



I don't see in on ebay either. Maybe they went belly up. You could easily fabricate your own with some sheet stock and the right tools. All they are is stamped aluminum. I think they cost me $5.




jza said:


> It's a dumb tool. You'll waste more time going to get it in your bag then you would messing around getting the lock nut on without it.



Not everyone has dainty little girl fingers.


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## west (Mar 23, 2011)

as for the 'fork' connector holder it probably makes life a little easier but I have to ask why it's necessary. Is it just me ... I thought everyone just pulled down on the wires with one hand (while pushing towards back of box) and then spun on the lock nut with two fingers of the other hand. It's quick and fast. What am I missing.

one tool to add to your trick-bag is a 16 ft. x 1/4" (also a 16 ft. x 3/8") fiberglass rod from Ryan-Herco dist. I know, I know, everyone can just screw together a bunch of threaded (lsd or other) fiber glass rods but these dirt simple, thicker, more rigid rods are in a whole other performance league & invaluable. You just grab each end, bend it into a U and throw it in the back of the van & let it expand. Never gets in the way. You can punch right through drywall if you need to just by repeated tapping or chucking it in your drill etc. They are the perfect combination of bend with stiffness (again far more rigid than the lsd junk). Obviously you only use them for long pulls but even though you may not need them as often (depending) they save loads of time and will perform the way shorter rods do only on a bigger scale (no drooping when fishing horizontally). 
The rigidity allows you to power through plenums & soffits choked with existing pipes and/of cables. Dense fiberglass insulation is no match. One of the best time saving tools I've ever bought. (you can buy them from any fiberglass supply - just ask for fiberglass rod. they're about $25 bucks each. Both have lasted over 20 years in the van under high temps).
No problem walking though homes with them bent into a U or just left straight. They are usually a pale green or gray white.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

west said:


> as for the 'fork' connector holder it probably makes life a little easier but I have to ask why it's necessary. Is it just me ... I thought everyone just pulled down on the wires with one hand (while pushing towards back of box) and then spun on the lock nut with two fingers of the other hand. It's quick and fast. What am I missing.....


I state it again (I think for the third time in this thread): _Not everyone has little-girlie hands.
_


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## SparkYZ (Jan 20, 2010)

jza said:


>



Yeah, well


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

Fishing at work.


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## Jcode (Mar 24, 2011)

SparkYZ said:


> Yeah, well


Yeah well








:thumbup:


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

I wouldn't take any of those to a plaster and lathe wall. :no:


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## sparks134 (Jan 30, 2009)

thegoldenboy said:


> I wouldn't take any of those to a plaster and lathe wall. :no:


Rotozip works well!!!


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## DiegoXJ (Jul 29, 2010)

http://www.lsdinc.com/content/product_details/64

hmm I think I would get myself in alot of trouble with that in the van.


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## Jcode (Mar 24, 2011)

I take my hand saw and sawzall to lath and plaster all the time. Lots of old mining homes up here. Not that hard, builds muscle 

We have a rotozip and its so damn loud I dont bother taking it out.


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

Jcode said:


> I take my hand saw and sawzall to lath and plaster all the time. Lots of old mining homes up here. Not that hard, builds muscle
> 
> We have a rotozip and its so damn loud I dont bother taking it out.


Lots of plaster up here, most of what I've seen is very dry and brittle so if that sawzall catches the wood just right, you're putting up a new section of wall on your dime. The rotozip is loud, I'll give you that but it doesn't disturb the integrity of the wall as much as a sawzall would. I do use my jabsaw on the wood lathe if a rotozip is out of the question, I can feel each stroke and know when to much is to much. I do a lot of old work, I actually love it. I could sit in a plaster and lathe house and have to rewire it without damaging finished surfaces to any serious extent and be a happy guy all day. Love it.


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## Jeff000 (Jun 18, 2008)

Jcode said:


> Yeah well
> 
> 
> 
> ...


WTF is that thing?




thegoldenboy said:


> Lots of plaster up here, most of what I've seen is very dry and brittle so if that sawzall catches the wood just right, you're putting up a new section of wall on your dime. The rotozip is loud, I'll give you that but it doesn't disturb the integrity of the wall as much as a sawzall would. I do use my jabsaw on the wood lathe if a rotozip is out of the question, I can feel each stroke and know when to much is to much. I do a lot of old work, I actually love it. I could sit in a plaster and lathe house and have to rewire it without damaging finished surfaces to any serious extent and be a happy guy all day. Love it.


All my contracts state I am not responsible for drywall damage or patching. Sometimes a few holes need to be made. 
But then I don't really do any residential, just friends and family, although I try my best to avoid it still.


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## Jcode (Mar 24, 2011)

I think only a few times I took a sawzall to lathe and plaster. Wasn't worth the effort of hauling it in. I just use my hand saw most the time. I have used a jigsaw though. Makes super quick work of it all and the stroke isn't long enough to even hint at damage, nor the wood bits as aggrasive as a sawzall blade.


The thing I pictured is Milwaukee's new thing. Comes in 12v and 18v. Got one coming this week in a 18v kit. More for replacing the need to haul in the sawzall more than anything. We'll see how it works on Lathe...


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## west (Mar 23, 2011)

480sparky said:


> I state it again (I think for the third time in this thread): _Not everyone has little-girlie hands.
> _


Thanks for the explanation, that was informative...

Now if you could explain to us why you have a picture of the guy who played a gay high school football coach that took dumps on peoples front lawns in the movie Saving Silverman next to your name? 
Something to do with liking 'drill' sergeants? _( whoa, don't get excited I said liking not licking )_


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## Jeff000 (Jun 18, 2008)

Jcode said:


> The thing I pictured is Milwaukee's new thing. Comes in 12v and 18v. Got one coming this week in a 18v kit. More for replacing the need to haul in the sawzall more than anything. We'll see how it works on Lathe...


I don't see how it would be any more portable then a sawzall though.


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

Jeff000 said:


> I don't see how it would be any more portable then a sawzall though.


I can put the 12v Hackzall in my left side pouch no problems. Heck, I could put the handle in my front pocket if my hands were tied up.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

mikeh32 said:


> solder, and a string! Yeah, i learned that from an old timer.


Same here .. sometimes jack chain


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

west said:


> ..................
> 
> Now if you could explain to us why you have a picture of the guy who played a gay high school football coach that took dumps on peoples front lawns in the movie Saving Silverman next to your name?
> Something to do with liking 'drill' sergeants? _( whoa, don't get excited I said liking not licking )_



You're new here and wouldn't understand.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

480sparky said:


> You're new here and wouldn't understand.


LoL, he was a real DI and wrote the script that he used in the movie. It's just the way it was. He stated that they would read the Stars & Stripes and see the names of the people who were killed in combat just weeks after leaving basic training. They had such a short time to train the recruits that slapping them did work to make them remember left from right. He said that at times they cried seeing those names.


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

Jcode said:


> I think only a few times I took a sawzall to lathe and plaster. Wasn't worth the effort of hauling it in. I just use my hand saw most the time. I have used a jigsaw though. Makes super quick work of it all and the stroke isn't long enough to even hint at damage, nor the wood bits as aggrasive as a sawzall blade.
> 
> 
> The thing I pictured is Milwaukee's new thing. Comes in 12v and 18v. Got one coming this week in a 18v kit. More for replacing the need to haul in the sawzall more than anything. We'll see how it works on Lathe...


If you're talking about the multi tool I have the M12 version. It is a lot better for cutting in to drywall or plaster/lathe than a sawzall, jigsaw or hand saw. there is way less vibration and very little dust put into the air. I have seen plaster/lathe cracked several feet away from where it was being cut with a saw or sawzall from the excessive vibration and stress. The multi tool oscillates at 30000 opm. You can plunge cut drywall, plywood, OSB 1x and 2x lumber quickly and with ease.


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## Jcode (Mar 24, 2011)

Looking forward to it :thumbsup:. But hot damn are the batteries expensive. Be making sure I dont accidently leave one at a HO's house like I did my 14.4 battery once. :/


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## Zachass (Jan 21, 2012)

480sparky said:


> Custom-made steel chain on an LSD Creepzit:
> ​
> 
> 
> ...


That's a great setup. Where can I get one of those magnets?


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

man, I thought this thread was gonna be about 6 ought reels, or tying flys, or custom block and tackle jigs to land sword fish by yourself 60 miles out, and its nothin but girlie wire pullin by people who don't have the balls to put fist size holes in the wall.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

thegoldenboy said:


> Lots of plaster up here, most of what I've seen is very dry and brittle so if that sawzall catches the wood just right, you're putting up a new section of wall on your dime. The rotozip is loud, I'll give you that but it doesn't disturb the integrity of the wall as much as a sawzall would. I do use my jabsaw on the wood lathe if a rotozip is out of the question, I can feel each stroke and know when to much is to much. I do a lot of old work, I actually love it. I could sit in a plaster and lathe house and have to rewire it without damaging finished surfaces to any serious extent and be a happy guy all day. Love it.


We do quite a lot of that as well. We are currently rewiring a 7500 sq ft house that was build in the early 1800s, with 3 additions, with the most recent being built in the 30s. The brunt of the walls are remaining intact instead of being demoed to framing, so I have been fishing and cutting boxes into plaster and lathe like a mad man. I can't count the number of rotozip bits I have smoke checked on this job. In the original part of the house, the framers in their infinite wisdom decided it would make more sense to frame the walls with 2x4s turned sideways, so the wall cavity is only 2" deep. Gotta love hole hawging and fishing in those. 

I never had much luck with any of the gimicky stuff for wire fishing. I end up using metal fish tapes 99% of the time. We have a ton of them from 3' long on up to 240'. Once you get used to it, they are fairly fast, precise, and let you work in some pretty cramped areas.


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## svh19044 (Jul 1, 2008)

Going_Commando said:


> We do quite a lot of that as well. We are currently rewiring a 7500 sq ft house that was build in the early 1800s, with 3 additions, with the most recent being built in the 30s. The brunt of the walls are remaining intact instead of being demoed to framing, so I have been fishing and cutting boxes into plaster and lathe like a mad man. I can't count the number of rotozip bits I have smoke checked on this job. In the original part of the house, the framers in their infinite wisdom decided it would make more sense to frame the walls with 2x4s turned sideways, so the wall cavity is only 2" deep. Gotta love hole hawging and fishing in those.
> 
> I never had much luck with any of the gimicky stuff for wire fishing. I end up using metal fish tapes 99% of the time. We have a ton of them from 3' long on up to 240'. Once you get used to it, they are fairly fast, precise, and let you work in some pretty cramped areas.


Use a multimaster (I've been happy with the M12 milwaukee, or just get a Fein) with a carbide blade for the plaster, cut in all your boxes, then switch back to the longer wood blade for the lathe. 

The carbide blades (normally sold as the grout removal blades) last forever, go relatively quick, are slightly less prone to throwing as much dust as the rotozips, and are easier to control.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

svh19044 said:


> Use a multimaster (I've been happy with the M12 milwaukee, or just get a Fein) with a carbide blade for the plaster, cut in all your boxes, then switch back to the longer wood blade for the lathe.
> 
> The carbide blades (normally sold as the grout removal blades) last forever, go relatively quick, are slightly less prone to throwing as much dust as the rotozips, and are easier to control.


I borrowed the carpenter's Fein on the job I am at right now, and it seems like a pretty slick rig, but man, that rotozip with a tile bit works wonders on the lathe. I trace out the box, chip out the plaster with my screwdriver and linemans, and then rotozip the lathe. The multitool seemed pretty tough to get the same precision on the notches for the side box screws (on steel switch boxes) and for the top box screws. I'll have to try it again. 

You don't have problems with the multitool getting overly aggressive with the plaster? The horsehair stuff in the house I am rewiring now is pretty fragile.


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