# new tool



## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

I am looking for feedback on this new tool design. Thank you


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## mattsilkwood (Sep 21, 2008)

i wouldnt pay that for it. 
it looks like it will work, but im not sure it would be any faster. i mean how long does it take to ream a small pipe.

the one for bigger pipe might be alright though.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

An old-fashioned Klein reamer is a whole lot lighter and compact than a cordless with something that unweildy hanging out the business end of it.

Magnet to reduce filings in the pipe? Fine, but how do you clean it? and how often?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I sometimes keep a mostly worn out unibit in a drill when I have a lot of pipe to cut and debur. I don't worry too much about deburring the O.D. as long as it goes in the fitting.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New tool design*

Thanks for the feed back guys. Yea, I've heard a lot of those responses. Most electricians are skeptical of it at first, then I let them use it for a week. 
So far, 90 % of the testers like it,
50% buy one, The other 50% just want to keep the one I gave them to test.
:yes:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

shunt trip said:


> .....Any body want to test one???:yes:


Can you get me a big enough commercial job that would force me to want to use one?


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## jbfan (Jan 22, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Can you get me a big enough commercial job that would force me to want to use one?


Same here!:thumbsup:


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

I'll try one.

I'm on a very big commercial job right now and all I do is run pipe all day long, mostly 3/4''. With the Ideal hand reamer you can pull out the reamer end and chuck it in a drill, that's what I do. I'd love to try your reamer and compare it.

I've got a lot of guys I work with and if you send me one to try I'll pass it around and get their feedback too. Let me know.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*big comm job*

OK, but you only get one big job each.
That is where it shines, on Big comm jobs, then it really shines.. you get used to it quick then you start to see how versatile it is, No packing & changing tools, (just tips) Way faster, No putting away the klien and grabing the drill to mount the pipe, its the same tool, it eliminates tools & steps, Hexagonal drive allows the body to slip right off the magnetic tip holder shank, Its smaller in your toolbox than the old Klien. No wrist wrenching, Tuff, in 2 years of testing we never broke or destroyed a blade. The future is scary...way more high tech stuff coming.. 
I hate change... Thats why i always challenge it. :jester:


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

I looked at your site twice. I think I would like to try it. Will it fit in a 1/4" quick connect?

~Matt


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## Minuteman (Dec 29, 2007)

I'll try it!


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New tool*



mattsilkwood said:


> i wouldnt pay that for it.
> it looks like it will work, but im not sure it would be any faster. i mean how long does it take to ream a small pipe.
> 
> the one for bigger pipe might be alright though.


Thanks for the feed back, 
*A* small pipe? One? not much time difference. But if you got a pipe rack or stubs coming out of the slab, and lots of them, You would be amazed at the time difference. Remember, you are not packing several screwdrivers Just a few tips. You also do not have to change tools, As soon as you ream the pipes(1/2",3/4" & 1") you can assemble, same tool, also screw your straps down & tighten fittings. 
Are Screw guns faster than wrists? 
Tool slips on/off hexagonal Magnetic tip holder shank.no tools required. More versatile, just change tips if needed. 
No wrist wrenching. no tool bags of screwdrivers hanging off your hip. 
This tool is designed for commercial use, it shreds conduit clean, quick, in & out, ensuring a better ground also. Blade is hardened to Rockwell +60


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Fair warning... if the guys who have indicated that they want to test one don't get one, this thread and any signs of anything you ever posted will evaporate. :thumbsup:


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New tool*



TOOL_5150 said:


> I looked at your site twice. I think I would like to try it. Will it fit in a 1/4" quick connect?
> 
> ~Matt


Thanks for the feed back.
Yes it will fit in a quick connect, It will also accept any 1/4' hex shank bits/tips.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> An old-fashioned Klein reamer is a whole lot lighter and compact than a cordless with something that unweildy hanging out the business end of it.
> 
> Magnet to reduce filings in the pipe? Fine, but how do you clean it? and how often?


Thanks for the input.
I clean it with a swipe of a cloth or glove. 
On a commercial job (rough in) I use a cordless all day, for drilling, screwing boxes, tightening fittings, etc. This tool allows constant assembly with out changing tools. It is there when you need it, & rarely interferes with other work, or better yet, slips off if you need more clearance. More versatile, accepts any 1/4" hex tip. (less stuff hanging off your hips.)
Also, in 2 years of testing we have never broke or wore out a blade.
All tools can be dangerous. Use with care.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

shunt trip said:


> Thanks for the feed back.
> Yes it will fit in a quick connect, It will also accept any 1/4' hex shank bits/tips.


Ok I *do* want to try it then. I am not in comercial work, but being able to ream and strap the pipe with the same drill does sound usefull. :thumbsup:

~Matt


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

slap a 5/16 chuck in one of those and you got yourself a nice conduit tool


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> Fair warning... if the guys who have indicated that they want to test one don't get one, this thread and any signs of anything you ever posted will evaporate. :thumbsup:


Your point is well taken, I only send out 1 tester at a time for 30 days, first come, first served. Gilbequick is first. then 5150. 
That is enough testers for now, 
Thank you to everyone who responded. 
Minuteman I sent your part yesterday.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*5/16" chuck*



electricalperson said:


> slap a 5/16 chuck in one of those and you got yourself a nice conduit tool


Are you refering to a nut driver?


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

I think he is, and with your setup that shouldn't be a problem at all.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I wouldn't use it, I rarely need my drill when I'm bending pipe.

Not that it's not a good idea, it's cool that it's always on the drill, I just can't see myself picking up my drill every time to ream a pipe real quick.

In fact, I don't even use the typical reamer either, I just use my needles nose to ream, and my channel locks to debur since I always have them on me.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

I use the drill all the time when running pipe when roughing in walls. Ya gotta screw in the spread brackets, or the j-hooks to the metal studs. And if you're running MC and pipe at the same time there's cj's to screw to studs and I'm not doing all that by hand!


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## jculber (Apr 22, 2008)

Hey, if you still need more to test that device, I will do it. Currently working on remodeling a whole community college here in Iowa.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

jculber said:


> Hey, if you still need more to test that device, I will do it. Currently working on remodeling a whole community college here in Iowa.


Ive been using the small Dewalt impact with the square tip for installing EMT lately. 
It might be a good little gadget to get used to using.
I usually use my Klein's to ream EMT. One pass gets both inside and outside of the pipe.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

gilbequick said:


> I use the drill all the time when running pipe when roughing in walls. Ya gotta screw in the spread brackets, or the j-hooks to the metal studs. And if you're running MC and pipe at the same time there's cj's to screw to studs and I'm not doing all that by hand!


Yeah, I guess you're right, but even with my baby drill, it's not something I have I have readily available in my pouch when I'm measuring, bending, and cutting pipe.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

jrannis said:


> I usually use my Klein's to ream EMT. One pass gets both inside and outside of the pipe.


How do you ream the inside and outside at the same time with your linemans?


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

gilbequick said:


> How do you ream the inside and outside at the same time with your linemans?


I would assume by opening the jaws, one jaw inside and one on the outside.

~Matt


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## nick (Feb 14, 2008)

Well we use a file on 4 /5/ 6 inch emt and some of the guys use a dewalt batt drill with a grinding wheel on the end its fast but the old file works best on large pipe it rounds out the edge , like to see someone come out with a emt big pipe reamer id buy that ? even on rigid we ream with the pipe ream tool but still have to clean up most pipe ends there is always a burr or something .best to yas


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

If the body of the tool is aluminum, how well does that hold up to spinning against EMT? I also think the price is a tad high.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

nick said:


> Well we use a file on 4 /5/ 6 inch emt .....


 
5 and 6 inch EMT? I think not.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

480sparky said:


> 5 and 6 inch EMT? I think not.


 
Either it's a typo or he really does work in the land of make believe.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

randomkiller said:


> If the body of the tool is aluminum, how well does that hold up to spinning against EMT? I also think the price is a tad high.


The prototype tools that we built were aluminum. The production run is cold rolled steel with black oxide coating. The picture on the website has been updated accordingly.



> like to see someone come out with a emt big pipe reamer id buy that ?


We do have some prototypes (steel) for the 1 1/4, 1 1/2, and 2" EMT that should be done next week. I will keep you posted. We have enough testers for now. If any of you folks would like to try the tool, we are offering a 60 day guarantee. Purchase it from our website, use the heck out of it. If you dont like it send it back and we will gladly refund your money. We are shipping tools as we speak. :thumbup:


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New Tool design.*

Excellent feed back everyone. Thank you. The obvious is not always so obvious, A Electrician built this tool to reduce the amount of wrist wrenching/twisting in a day. Everybody gets enough of that! 
The tool was designed to eliminate as much repetitive stress motions as possible, Reaming/deburring a conduit with any hand tool: needle nose, linesman, hand reamer or whatever is just more twisting/wrenching of your wrist & arm. 
Insert pipe, Press the trigger, about 4 rotations(3seconds) put pipe in fitting, tighten fitting, screw straps, move on, no changing tools. No wrist wrenching.
In 2 years of extensive testing we never broke a blade or even wore 1 out, it shreds conduit to a smooth polished surface inside & out. :yes:


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## nick (Feb 14, 2008)

480sparky said:


> 5 and 6 inch EMT? I think not.


Well yes guess we left out and aluminum and rigid conduit 480 . they do make 5 inch emt just not common at you local supply house its special order ill ask at the shop and get you a web site if you like to see it most electricians think its not made but its made .take care best to ya


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

nick said:


> Well yes guess we left out and aluminum and rigid conduit 480 . they do make 5 inch emt just not common at you local supply house its special order ill ask at the shop and get you a web site if you like to see it most electricians think its not made but its made .take care best to ya


How many 500s (THHN) can you fit into 5" EMT? Show your steps and Code references, please.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

In all honesty, the twisting motion from reaming and deburring is really not that strenuous.

I would put it up there with writing, in terms of how it stresses my hand, and I've been bending pipe 8 hours a day for the past few weeks.


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## nick (Feb 14, 2008)

480sparky said:


> How many 500s (THHN) can you fit into 5" EMT? Show your steps and Code references, please.


 Well 2008 code book shows 13 total 500 mcm thhn conductors on page 70 -743 table C.8 (a) we also use starting at page 70 -671 radius of conduit and tubing bends because we pull and run high voltage cables and its 4 inch 5 inch and 6 inch pipe or calculate square inch to conduit size and check for 40 % fill by math. A non standard type cable not listed in the code book we still figure out if its legal to go into a conduit at 40 % . I guess i should have said 5 inch or 6 inch rigid or imc alum conduit but it gets more interesting 480 ? We do alot of odd ball jobs and we install non standard boxes odd sizes conduit and not your standard pipe in some areas what ever is called for by engineer or the owner .The 5 inch emt was thin wall alum pipe just like your regular emt it was for a cable that needed that alum conduit thin wall and it was made to fit in a generator with 5 inch cut holes we were not able to cut any other size holes in the connection tap box on that unit and alum conduit/flex was spec, 5 inch was the conduit size per nec code nothing else would work ? you can ask mitsubishi turbine plant people its called non american stuff ? best to ya


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## nick (Feb 14, 2008)

*5 Iinch Thin Wall Alu Conduit Rare But Here*

Well the shop says Chongqing Gusheng Alumimium Products Ltd this is what Mitsubishi Heavy Industies Ltd spec at the tubine plant owner purchased this material as there equipment we install . If ya ever need that size if you need 5 inch thin wall pipe you can get it order is real expense so dont all jump at one time . this was a extreme needed pipe issue so yes in real world we only see 4 or 6 inch pipe and mostly 5 inch imc aluminum . every conduit was aluminum in the plant . RK get out of that service work and theres a whole lot more to electrical work ? comments take care best to yas :thumbsup:


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## Adam12 (May 28, 2008)

Thats a slick tool. Good idea. 

I usually have an impact with me when running pipe and a drill nearby. 

As others have said though, kind of pricey.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> I sometimes keep a mostly worn out unibit in a drill when I have a lot of pipe to cut and debur. I don't worry too much about deburring the O.D. as long as it goes in the fitting.



I do the same thing.......maybe there is hope for me

I've always used a pair of mini channel locks with the grips cut off for reaming. I never liked the reaming klein driver much because I hate buying or not having blades on me. And if I have lots to do I use my unibit and give the OD a quick one with my channies.


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

Actually, If you add the cost of a klien reamer plus all the replacement blades over the life of the tool, it ends up costing more in the long run
Klien tool $18
Repl Blades $8 x3 =24

total = $42

How many of you have replaced your klien blades 3 times?? I've got a klien sitting here on my desk with the 1/2 outer blade section broken off. Those blades are made to break. The blade on this tool is 3 times the thickness of the klien tool and made of hardened tool steel. We still have prototype blades that were just made of stainless and they are still cutting. The blade is 1/8" thick hardened tool steel and should last for years.

Gil, and 5150, we shipped out your tools today. Minuteman, we sent off a different mag tip holder to you.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Product received today. It looks to be a well made quality tool, and is more compact that I thought it'd be. I'll give it a good test run on Monday and I'll pass it around to see what the other guys think as well.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

I got mine as well. I like the way it looks - not too bulky. Going to give it a run monday. I look forward to giving it a run for the money.

~Matt


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

Right on, gotta luv the USPS. They deliver. We just have to get them to a mailbox!!!!

europama, we will ship yours out monday.

Thank you all for your support and have a happy valentines day.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

I wish it came with the option to fasten it to the 1/4 extension. Like a place for a little allen set screw. I know that would add to the price, but so far, just by looking at it - thats what I would want.

~Matt


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*??...???*

Sorry Matt, I'm not following you....I do not understand the extension thing.
Thank you for the feedback.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

The reamer itself isn't fastened to the shaft of the magnetic bit holder. He's saying that it seems like a good tool but he'd like it better if it could be more securely fastened to the shaft (which is the same size as a 1/4'' bit).

I was kinda surprised that it wasn't fastened on there either, but as long as it's seated against the chuck of the drill it shouldn't matter.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I wonder if you couldn't burr up the shaft with a pair of channels or an old pair of cutter the bang the reamer on top of the burred up part. That might hold it there. 

That's an old trick used sometimes when replacing motor bearings, when the motor shaft isn't tight in the I.D. of the bearing. Burr up the motor shaft with a prick punch a bunch of places and tap the bearing back on.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New tool design*

Exactly.! You are both right. The prototypes did have set screws. Boring & tapping a hole is more cost effective than a brooch.(1/4"hex hole)
Easier machining for testing purposes. 
& Yes, The chuck does hold it in place. The reason we designed it to slip on/off is for maximum versatility. No tools required, Easy quick use. 
The REAMER body is designed to slip on the provided magnetic tip holder for all day use, Or unto any 1/4" shanked tip for a couple quick reams..(length allowing)
Bear in mind, there any many more new interchangable tool designs coming soon from d-REAMER tools.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

ANother thing: how much are replacement shafts? when my drill gets tipped/kicked/knocked over... the shaft bends. I hate that a lot so I have to replace the tip extensions. Now that I was thinking about the shaft/reamer and how they are not attached, I think I will find it to be a pain. I often use spade bits in my impact, which requires me to take the hex extension and tip out, and slip the spade bit in. I drill the hole and then put the extension back in. If the reamer cant be fastened to the extension then it may have a tendency to slip off when I take the extension out.

~Matt


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

I've dropped many-a drills and never had the shaft on the screwdriver bit break.

If you want it to stay place just put a little shoo goo around the bottom of it against the shaft. Just clean the shaft up to get any oils off (denatured alcohol works great) and put a little on there. If you ever need to get it off you can.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

gilbequick said:


> I've dropped many-a drills and never had the shaft on the screwdriver bit break.


...yet.

For me, they either snap off clean or get bent so that they wobble when I'm using them. In either event, they're trash.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

TOOL_5150 said:


> I wish it came with the option to fasten it to the 1/4 extension. Like a place for a little allen set screw. I know that would add to the price, but so far, just by looking at it - thats what I would want.
> 
> ~Matt


In the first pic it looks like it has the recess to snap in a 1/4" hex quick connect extension.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New tool design*

I agree with burger flipper, the magnetic tip holders bend when dropped.
In testing, the cast tip holders bent way easier than the 2 piece hardened hex shank & SS body type. 
Putting The tip holder tight against the reamer body, tight against the chuck, created a reinforcing effect between the components. 
In testing we bent many dozens of tips in dropping contests. The 2 piece rarely bent & only under extreme conditions, the cast one always bent. 
Extensive testing proved the 2 piece tip holder stronger, more durable & compact.
Tip holders are available. We are in the process of updating our website.

Holesaws set screwed unto 1/4" drill bits were the inspiration not to use set screws on the reamer body.(Stripping,sliding,spinning)


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> ...yet.
> 
> For me, they either snap off clean or get bent so that they wobble when I'm using them. In either event, they're trash.


This is what I was talking about. I try to be careful with my tools but usually it only takes the drill to topple over on cement and the extension now has a wobble.


~Matt


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

We can certainly put a set screw in on the next production run if we need to. You guys use the heck out of that thing this week and see what you think.

I will try to get the website updated tomorrow to with the prices on replacement mag holders. 

We are redesigning the blade on the larger reamer to help with crooked cuts, I will keep you posted.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Tried it today and passed it around to a few guys to give it a whirl. 

This is only a first day review.
It's very smooth. If you've ever chucked the normal style hand reamer in a drill if you're not careful it can grab larger burrs very hard and jerk your hand or the pipe around. The d-reamer wasn't jerky at all and cleaned the edges nicely.

The other guys liked it a lot as well and thought it was a tool they'd like to have. 

The only thing we all said we'd change is have it fastened to the shaft via a setscrew or something else removable, but it wasn't really a big deal because it's not big and bulky and you really don't notice it much on the end of the drill, but it'd still be nice because when you put the reamer away the 2 pieces could easily be separated.

Me personally, I'm a tool guy and generally spend more on tools than most people so I'd pay $35 for one after trying it out, but I"m probably in the minority. 2 other guys both said they'd purchase one, but not for $35. Both agreed $20-$25 was more inline with what they'd spend. I also work for a union shop, so if the tool isn't on the tool list most of the time it won't be purchased by employees. For me, if it'll help out I don't think to much about the tool list for the smaller convenience tools like these.

So, so far all in all after one day of medium use a good product.


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

OK, it's been a week, anyone broken a blade yet?? What do you think so far??


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

So far I like it a lot. No broken blade, the blade on it is pretty thick so it looks like it'll hold up. I really like that it doesn't limit you to just a reamer on a drill. All of the other guys seem to agree, it's pretty convenient and everyone likes it. 

Something like this would really shine on some big pipe. You'd save a ton of time vs using the old bastard file.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

It doesnt fit in this:










Wich is a real bummer because that is all I use.

~Matt


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

TOOL_5150 said:


> It doesnt fit in this:
> 
> [pic above]
> 
> ...


To be more specific, The 1/4 hex retainer pulls out, away from the drill, wich doesnt allow the reamer to fully seat, which means it wont lock.

~Matt


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

TOOL_5150 said:


> To be more specific, The 1/4 hex retainer pulls out, away from the drill, wich doesnt allow the reamer to fully seat, which means it wont lock.
> 
> ~Matt


.
Let me see what I can do this weekend to accomodate your driver. I'm guessing that the relief for the quick release is prolly a little shy of engaging. How much farther do you think it needs to go to fit on your driver???


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Arc Angle said:


> .
> Let me see what I can do this weekend to accomodate your driver. I'm guessing that the relief for the quick release is prolly a little shy of engaging. How much farther do you think it needs to go to fit on your driver???


I would guess somewhere around 1/4" I will give it a real close look tomarrow and let you know if I find a new number. I think it would fit, IF the collar didnt pull forward, but backward like most other 1/4" quick connects. But since I will need to allow the extra length for the collar, now it will slide around, going back to wanting the reamer to stay put [but be able to be removed] from the shaft.

~Matt


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Ok guys, I gotta admit, I'm still liking this thing. In a few days we've got a few thousand feet of 1.5'', 2'' and 3'', one of these would probably shine on the bigger stuff.

If you've only got a little bit of conduit to run I wouldn't get it out, but for a lot it's worth it.


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

Thanks for all your feedback guys.

tool5150, if you take an X drill and drill into the front face about 3/8 it will allow the mag holder to slip into the tool enough to chuck into your driver and still be able to get it out. BUT,,,, before you chuck it in there, MAKE SURE you will have enough room to slide the disconnect forward to get the thing out. As far as fastening to the 1/4 shank. I would try a wrap of electrical tape around the outer edge of the mag tip, then shove the reamer onto it. This will stop the thing from rattling around on the shank. We can put a set screw in to secure it to the shank if we have to, but so far most of our feed back from folks that have been using it awhile has been that they actually like the fact that it slips on and off so easy. One other thing you might try is to chuck just the mag holder into your driver and try a 2" whatever bit you use for fastening. Put a little tape or shoe goo, or whatever on that tip and secure the reamer. If I really have to, I can modify one of our tools just for you with the x drill depth and a 1/4-28 set screw. Let me know.

Gilbequick, I just picked up the modified blades today from the machine shop. I have access to a kiln later in the week to harden them. I will get you off one of the tools as soon as i can. Just so you know, we are on our 3rd design of the blade and I am working on our 1st revision of the tool itself. In just the 3 weeks that we have been using "The Puck" we have already identified a potential problem that butterfingered folks might encounter. Can you say DROP TEST. When we do go into production on the ECR2, we will have all the bugs worked out.

We have also taken note of one other bit of feedback, which was price point. Now I realize that electricians are a bunch of cheap bastiges, and I can understand that, especially with the state of the economy. Nowadays, if you have to choose between buying a new tool - or gas for the truck, you are prolly going to end up buying food or diapers instead.

This is not the best time to be launching a new product, but we didn't have a glass ball last year when we were finally getting this thing going. The real value of this tool won't be apparent until you have used it for a while and realize that it was built for the long haul. We didn't design this thing to sell spare blades or replacement parts. How many replacement blade sets have you bought for your other reamers??? don't you hate when the 1/2 outer tang breaks off? It doesn't take long, does it?

Anyhoo, we have started an introductory offer for the ECR1 reamer, details are available on the website. We have a sale price going and free shipping till April 1st.

Thank you for you support www.d-reamer.com


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

I have some things to add but will add when I get home.. so ill bump this up to the top.

~Matt


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## Stan B. (Jul 25, 2008)

I'm curious, would this tool also work on copper pipe? When it's cut with a pipe cutter it requires more reaming. I used a step bit for this last weekend for some 1/2" but it isn't exactly the ideal tool for the job.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*new tool design*



Stan B. said:


> I'm curious, would this tool also work on copper pipe? When it's cut with a pipe cutter it requires more reaming. I used a step bit for this last weekend for some 1/2" but it isn't exactly the ideal tool for the job.


No the electrical conduit d-reamer tool will not work on copper.
The copper pipe sizes are different. 
We are making a tool just for copper pipe, and also another one for plastic pipe. soon to be released. D-reamer is also working on many other interchangeable tool designs, soon to be announced. Thanks for asking.:thumbup:


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

*Heat Treating*

Finally had time today to bake the blades for the prototype ECR2s.
Preheat to 1200 deg
bake at 1480 for 1 hour
quench at 180
temper at 300 for 1 hour

I will be checking the hardness tomorrow and if they pass I will ship one of the larger reamers out to you Gilbequick.

Right now, it's pretty warm in the basement, and a little stinky.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Fantastic!

The little reamer is still working great and it impresses people who haven't seen it almost on a daily basis. I'm a believer. I don't know how long the blades last but this one is still holding up well from a decent amount of use. I'm going to order a couple just in case. 

If the larger version is as good as the smaller then you're going to have a real winner on your hands for sure :thumbsup:.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New tool design*

Gilbequick, Thanks for the update. Yea, they are tough. We never have wore out or broke a blade in 2 years of extreme testing. We built them to last. Hopefully they will catch on. Does it save you any time?


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

It saves a noticeable amount of time, even more so with the newer guys, when running pipe for a while. If you're just putting up a piece or 2 you won't see a difference. If you're roughing in walls or running racks the time difference really adds up.


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

Gil, I sent off your replacement blades today, along with one of the larger reamers.

Thanks for the feedback!


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## daddymack (Jun 3, 2008)

It looks like a nice tool and from the reviews the quality is great. That said, with the Klein tool and channel lock handles, I'm not sure there is room in the market for it. 

A pipefitter gave me one of these
http://www.martorusa.com/s.nl;jsess...e34Pa38Ta38Nc3j0?it=A&id=1316&sc=5&category=5

whip it around 3 or four times and you go a really nice taper for somewhere between 5 and 12 bucks.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New tool design*



daddymack said:


> It looks like a nice tool and from the reviews the quality is great. That said, with the Klein tool and channel lock handles, I'm not sure there is room in the market for it.
> 
> A pipefitter gave me one of these
> http://www.martorusa.com/s.nl;jsess...e34Pa38Ta38Nc3j0?it=A&id=1316&sc=5&category=5
> ...


daddymack, Thanks for the feedback. True, the hand reamers are cheaper to buy. Try one of those deburring tools on the outside of the pipe. Sure you can use channelocks or linesmen to do the outside. But the reality is you have just used 2 tools and mutiple wrist motions to do the same thing d-reamer does in 3-5 seconds. Can that tool perform the next task? Can it tighten the fitting? Will it drive a screw to hold a strap? These are the next succession of steps. Without putting down a tool to pick up another tool to use & put back to get the tool you just had. 
It does not seem like much time, I agree. This tool will not convince you until you use it for a few days installing conduit. Aside from all the wrist motions, Time is still money. D-reamer is a much faster method of reaming & a very adaptable tool. With a few tips you replace a whole lot of individual tools you are packing on your hips.(making more room for parts) 
If you frequently install EMT,& got 20 years ahead of you, or are a contractor that wants to trim labor costs, This tool will pay for itself Quick & hold up to the test of time.
If you do very little pipework, Its not for you.
d-REAMER is about to announce a expanded line of time & effort saving tool designs. Thanks for all the comments.


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## randas (Dec 14, 2008)

I like the idea, I almost bought one. But I just can't justify spending $60 CDN of my own money on a tool that more than anything, is just going to save my employer money.


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## daddymack (Jun 3, 2008)

shunt trip said:


> daddymack, Thanks for the feedback. True, the hand reamers are cheaper to buy. Try one of those deburring tools on the outside of the pipe. Sure you can use channelocks or linesmen to do the outside. But the reality is you have just used 2 tools and mutiple wrist motions to do the same thing d-reamer does in 3-5 seconds. Can that tool perform the next task? Can it tighten the fitting? Will it drive a screw to hold a strap? These are the next succession of steps. Without putting down a tool to pick up another tool to use & put back to get the tool you just had.
> It does not seem like much time, I agree. This tool will not convince you until you use it for a few days installing conduit. Aside from all the wrist motions, Time is still money. D-reamer is a much faster method of reaming & a very adaptable tool. With a few tips you replace a whole lot of individual tools you are packing on your hips.(making more room for parts)
> If you frequently install EMT,& got 20 years ahead of you, or are a contractor that wants to trim labor costs, This tool will pay for itself Quick & hold up to the test of time.
> If you do very little pipework, Its not for you.
> d-REAMER is about to announce a expanded line of time & effort saving tool designs. Thanks for all the comments.


I thought I read that your tool did not ream the outside. Are you hitting any trade shows or just going by word of mouth? I'm on the rec committee with my union. I may see about purchasing some for door prizes and raffles.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

daddymack said:


> I thought I read that your tool did not ream the outside. Are you hitting any trade shows or just going by word of mouth? I'm on the rec committee with my union. I may see about purchasing some for door prizes and raffles.


It does ream the outside. It reams the outside the same time as the inside. It actually leaves a nice, smooth bevel.


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

Daddymack, if you go to the website, about 3/4 down the page there is a before and after pic of some conduit. We also have contractor packs, which is a pack of 20 reamers for about a 20% savings. We are starting out with word of mouth, but will be showing up at trade shows before long.

Gil, did you get the big reamer yet??


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Arc Angle said:


> Gil, did you get the big reamer yet??


I sure did, it is a nice product. It is one big puckin reamer! But it works well and saves loads of time. Unfortunately I haven't had much time running 2'' yet, but I've tested it on several pieces and it's at least 15X faster than the old bastard file, and works just as smoothly as the smaller reamer.

Probably next week sometime I'll be all over the 2'' and that reamer will get a workout as well. 

As I was passing around the smaller reamer to the different crews (everyone loves the reamer) one of the guys lost it







. I was not happy. I will be ordering another, but I'd like to see what else you guys are coming out with first. Any hints?


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

gilbequick said:


> one of the guys lost it
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Your foreman or General foreman needs to replace that thing for since you use it a lot on the job and it's saving the company alot of time. atleast charge it to the job.


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

william1978 said:


> Your foreman or General foreman needs to replace that thing for since you use it a lot on the job and it's saving the company alot of time. atleast charge it to the job.


he prolly lost it in his pocket.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Just had my hands own one of those reamers I'd have to say very nice. I hope you sale a lot of those. conduit doesn't have a single burr on it.:thumbsup:


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

Is that the one that gilbequick lost!!??


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Arc Angle said:


> Is that the one that gilbequick lost!!??


 
No, but I saw the large one that he had. He told me about someone taking the smaller one.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Update:

Well after using the big reamer for a few days I'm a little dissapointed as it doesn't ream as smooth as it did when it was new. It leaves an edge on the inside, so filing is still necessary. 

The smaller reamer was still reaming great until it went missing and got A LOT more use than the larger reamer did.


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

Gil, send me back the blade, I need to look at it. We have discussed tightening up the radius on the blade grooves, but we haven't been using our puck as much, so we haven't run into that problem yet. It's easy enough to have some different blades cut and i still have the kiln in the basement so the heat treating will be a bit faster since i have figured out how to use the thing now. I'm pretty sure it's not a problem with the blade hardness, since they did test out at Rockwell C 60+ (61 - 63) So it probalby needs a tweakin of the geometry. If we have to, we can redesign the whole dang tool, I didn't have that many prototypes built of the puck and if I have to swap thing around to put all the cutting faces on one side, I can.

Europama........... have you had a chance to use the small reamer yet???


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*New Tool Design*

Gilbequick, 
That's because more small pipe is installed. 
Sounds like you are working the ECR1 pretty hard. 
Thank you for the testing & feedback. 
Arc angle will use his bent & twisted mind to build the master design. 
A small tweaking of the Arc Angle will fix the blade. 
We designed mutiple blades for the ECR1 before release.
We do not usually release a design until extreme testing is complete, but user feedback is essential to development & design. 
Your professional opinion is appreciated. 
The larger reamer design is a bit tricker.
Really wierd conduit cuts come into play. 
I'm sure you have seen 2" pipe cut with a bit of a concaved shape to it, or just off angle, which creates a funky reaming angle. Making it difficult to have blade contact at all points. 
It would be easy if all Electricians made straight cuts...
We are already changing the tolerances on the ECR2 blade as we type..
Our # 1 priority is to design tools that are effective & reliable,and stand up to the test of time..


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

With the way the smaller reamer works I'm sure the larger one will be just as good. I'll get the blade out tomorrow if at all possible.


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## Dude Man (Dec 15, 2008)

How did this tool ever turn out? Are all of the problems worked out?


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## Arc Angle (Feb 6, 2009)

The small reamer (ECR1) is working just fine. The large reamer is still in testing stage and not for sale yet.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

*Thank you!!*

d- REAMER would like to Thank all who offered feedback. A even bigger Thank you to our testers. Three years of extensive testing has resulted in thousands of hours of extreme use & abuse. Testers offered critical input & knowledge, The result is tools that are, Simple, Effective, & Durable. 
Skilled craftsmen everywhere agree,
d-REAMER makes conduit jobs easier & faster.
Thank you again for your support in making d-REAMER a success!!


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## ZZDoug (Apr 30, 2008)

If I may make a suggestion. You should offer this without the magnetic bit holders, which most of us already have anyway. I use bit holders that tighten down on the bit so it wont fall out, the ones you are offering are useless in my opinion. But if you are going to include a bit holder, make it one with a shroud over the tip so the driver wont slip off the screw. (Like the Klein driver has)
And when is the larger one due out?


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

You've gotta have the bit holder it comes with the reamer. It's got more exposed hex shaft on the end to make room for the reamer to slide onto. 

The larger reamer is an extreme time saver. There's no comparison vs hand filing 1 1/4'' - 2''. FYI I was sent both the small and large reamer to test. They do not in anyway pay me, but in all honesty it's a fantastic product.


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

Thanks for the vote of confidence Gil, Crescent electric is now distributing d-REAMERS on the west coast. Chicago is the 2nd hottest market right now. Word of mouth is the best advertising you can get. Thanks for all the support.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Shoot, between the smaller reamer and the larger reamer, I use one of them a few times every day. I've always got a drill on the cart so chucking in the reamer only takes a few seconds. If you've got more than a couple of pipes to ream, reaming them by hand sucks compared to the d-reamer. 

The blades on the larger reamer haven't been lasting as long as the blades on the smaller reamer. It still reams, but leaves a slight bur so some minor touch ups are sometimes necessary.

If you can't tell, I'm still very satisfied.


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## Minuteman (Dec 29, 2007)

The shank is too short to lock into my DeWalt Impact very well. It keeps falling out. Also, the magnet is weak and won't hold tech screws. I would give it a C+ grade.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Yes it would be nice if it fit into an impactor or any 1/4'' quick connect for that matter. 
I think what I'll do today is grind down the notch down a little lower so it'll grab in the 1/4'' quick connect.


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## Minuteman (Dec 29, 2007)

One of my apprenticeses has a cute little Bosh impact (Not sure what voltage) and the d-reamer fits it fine. But it will not lock into my my DeWalt. I suppose I could chuck it into my drill, but the impact is so much better at running screws. I sort of thought that the whole point was for it to be a screw tip with a build in reamer?


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## shunt trip (Jan 15, 2009)

Unfortunately, there is no standard when it comes to quick connect designs. Some couplers require a longer shank length. If a d-Reamer shank will not "lock" into a particular quick connect, then just drill out a little material with a 1/2' drill on the back of the tool, centered on the shank hole. Usually about a 1/8' will do it. This will be standard on the next production build. 
So far, Only 2 out of Thousands of satisfied customers use non compatible Quick connects. Most Electricians use cordless drills with keyless chucks. 
Happy 4th Everyone!! 
ENJOY FREEDOM, COMPLIMENTS OF THE US MILITARY. 
GOD BLESS THE USA!


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## Minuteman (Dec 29, 2007)

shunt trip said:


> Only 2 out of Thousands of satisfied customers use non compatible Quick connects. Most Electricians use cordless drills with keyless chucks.


So, only 2 out of 1000 electricians use DeWalt impact drivers??? :no:

I use my drill to drill and my impact driver to drive screws. Call me crazy.


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

Minuteman said:


> I use my drill to drill and my impact driver to drive screws. Call me crazy.


You're crazy. :thumbsup:

I guess I'm crazy too - I do the same thing. :whistling2:


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## Minuteman (Dec 29, 2007)

JohnJ0906 said:


> You're crazy. :thumbsup:
> 
> I guess I'm crazy too - I do the same thing. :whistling2:


Thanks John, we must be the 2 out of 1000.


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