# seal tite without compression fittings



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Probably Carflex, made by Carlon (technically its, liquid tight nonmetallic flexible conduit, LNFC)



















You thread it onto the fitting.


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## noarcflash (Sep 14, 2011)

thats exactly what it is! the problem is..... it's pulling off the barbed fittings, and the THHN is exposed.

I have never seen this type of seal tite before. how is this NEC legal without a good mechanical connection from conduit to fitting ?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

noarcflash said:


> thats exactly what it is! the problem is..... it's pulling off the barbed fittings, and the THHN is exposed.
> 
> I have never seen this type of seal tite before. how is this NEC legal without a good mechanical connection from conduit to fitting ?


Just loosen up the locking collar and push the Carflex over the male end of the fitting..

Some fittings have screw threads.. so you might have to disconnect the equipment..


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## noarcflash (Sep 14, 2011)

B4T said:


> Just loosen up the locking collar and push the Carflex over the male end of the fitting..
> 
> Some fittings have screw threads.. so you might have to disconnect the equipment..


there is NO locking collar, or even threads on the seal tite side of the fitting. just the barbed fitting.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

noarcflash said:


> there is NO locking collar, or even threads on the seal tite side of the fitting. just the barbed fitting.


Then it it just a different manufacture and looks like the pic Jlarson posted.. it screws onto the Carflex..


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## noarcflash (Sep 14, 2011)

my point is... it just pulls off the fitting without much effort at all. and then the thhn is exposed.

where as... regular seal tite, you can hang off it, and the compression fitting will not let loose.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I've used a lot of carflex and a lot of that style fitting and haven't had an issue with it just being able to be pulled right off, it has to be turned off and once you have the piece installed and strapped if necessary on both ends its hard to turn it enough to get it off the fittings. 


I have seen plenty of installs where the installer cut the carflex at a nasty angle and it could be pulled off in that instance and I've also seen other manufacturers LNFC used with the carlon fittings and it isn't as tough of a connection. One of those may be part of your issue.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

noarcflash said:


> my point is... it just pulls off the fitting without much effort at all. and then the thhn is exposed.
> 
> where as... regular seal tite, you can hang off it, and the compression fitting will not let loose.


It might of been missing parts from day one and the original installer either didn't care or didn't know there was something missing.. 

This is where having a pic helps in finding a solution to the problem..


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

I agree with Larson: It's installer error. I'm trying to get rid of our stock of multi-piece liquid-tight connectors because the push-on ones are the balls and I'd like to use only those.

I had a tug-of-war with those things just to see if we could pull them off and we couldn't do it.

-John


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## noarcflash (Sep 14, 2011)

how close to the j box do you need a strap ?
any special straps, or just 1 hole straps?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

noarcflash said:


> how close to the j box do you need a strap ?
> any special straps, or just 1 hole straps?


12" from a box and every 3'.. 356.30 if you have a code book handy..


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## noarcflash (Sep 14, 2011)

B4T said:


> 12" from a box and every 3'.. 356.30 if you have a code book handy..


I figured this had some special manufactures specs...


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## mbednarik (Oct 10, 2011)

rip it out and put in real sealtight, LFMC. Metal fittings and the metal inside the flex, it really holds up better.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Big John said:


> because the push-on ones are the balls and I'd like to use only those


These? 










They seem to take everyone's LNFC pretty well, it's got more aggressive threads then carlons plastic ones and the collar helps too.

Or these?










This is what we stock now, I try to use them in every environment that they'll handle cause they're so easy to use. 



mbednarik said:


> ...LFMC....it really holds up better.


:laughing: Some days we fill up multiple rubbermade cans (we strip the jacket off and recycle the steel) with old, broken, rusted, nasty metal liquid tight and replace it all with nonmetallic.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

mbednarik said:


> rip it out and put in real sealtight, LFMC. Metal fittings and the metal inside the flex, it really holds up better.


In wet conditions I would have to say that is not true at all.


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## 10492 (Jan 4, 2010)

If you can't change it out, put a hose clamp on the connector and call it a day.


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## mbednarik (Oct 10, 2011)

BBQ said:


> In wet conditions I would have to say that is not true at all.


Unless its a corrosive environment, i never seen the carflex hold up. The fittings are either broke, or the flex its self.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> I've used a lot of carflex and a lot of that style fitting and haven't had an issue with it just being able to be pulled right off, it has to be turned off and once you have the piece installed and strapped if necessary on both ends its hard to turn it enough to get it off the fittings.
> 
> 
> I have seen plenty of installs where the installer cut the carflex at a nasty angle and it could be pulled off in that instance and I've also seen other manufacturers LNFC used with the carlon fittings and it isn't as tough of a connection. One of those may be part of your issue.


Thanks(My Thanks Button got Revoked again:laughing

Any time I have seen problems with carflex is because the wrong connectors were used and the guy cut it with his teeth..:blink:

there is no need for the metal stuff anymore.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

mbednarik said:


> Unless its a corrosive environment, i never seen the carflex hold up. The fittings are either broke, or the flex its self.


Well, I always find rotted out LFMC on rooftops.

As far as LFNC breaking or pulling out I will have to assume bad installer. 

It is required to be secured within 12" of a fitting, if that is done how would it pull out?

It is also required to be supported at least each 36" if that is done how would it break?


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

noarcflash said:


> I'm looking at a previous guys work, and the seal tite fittings do not have compression rings, or even a threaded ring to secure the seal tite to the fitting.
> 
> So I take a close look at the fitting, and there are no threads to even screw on a compression ring.
> 
> ...


Maybe someone used a Carflex fitting on regular Sealtite.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> Or these?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Yeah, those are the best thing since flying cars! Problem is I've still got about 1,000 of the three-piece connectors I'm trying to use up.

-John


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Big John said:


> Yeah, those are the best thing since flying cars! Problem is I've still got about 1,000 of the three-piece connectors I'm trying to use up.
> 
> -John


This will help...:whistling2:


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## Insomnia (Jan 15, 2012)

Big John said:


> I agree with Larson: It's installer error. I'm trying to get rid of our stock of multi-piece liquid-tight connectors because the push-on ones are the balls and I'd like to use only those.
> 
> I had a tug-of-war with those things just to see if we could pull them off and we couldn't do it.
> 
> -John


I agree, I am not a big fan of those fittings and I've only seen them at home depot. From my experience with them they do work, they just feel flimsy and I want to eliminate them.


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## noarcflash (Sep 14, 2011)

Do the carflex fittings use carflex conduit, or ultralite conduit?


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