# Waterfall counter tops and outlets



## Smileyboy (Apr 24, 2007)

I walked in to my remodel today and found this?

15 inch overhangs... where will my outlet go??










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Wherever the hole is cut.

Were there drawings? This is a tough one. You have a bank of drawers on each side. Someone may have to cut a drawer short to make room for your wiring. Then someone has to cut a hole for your receptacle. The cheesy thing to do is put it in the back.


----------



## canbug (Dec 31, 2015)

You tell the GC where you want the hole and it will magically appear two days later.

Tim.


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

IMO , those are BUTT UGLY....I just do not see the appeal.
This is about ...the journey for GC's to label their product 
as "unique" and "different" except they routinely and
conveniently disregard they are building under code
specs.

I would volley this right back at them & get power into 
the lower cabinet and put the ball back into your GC's 
hands....maybe the back side will be more accommodating?


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I used to really twist my brain, trying to find solutions to weird kitchen island and peninsula counter placement. In later times, I simply did nothing, while giving the customer or GC had the head's up the inspector might require a receptacle there, and I let it fail inspection. That shifts the burden onto the designer to sort out a receptacle placement.


----------



## Smileyboy (Apr 24, 2007)

canbug said:


> You tell the GC where you want the hole and it will magically appear two days later.
> 
> Tim.




I’m thinking an outlet on the ends would do.. just unbelievable sometimes. I think I’ll let it fail and then make them pay for it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

The only logical solution is to drill a hole in the stone floor, run some romex up the side, try and hammer some insulated staples to secure it and surface mount a blue carlon box on the side. :smile:


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Smileyboy said:


> I’m thinking an outlet on the ends would do.. just unbelievable sometimes. I think I’ll let it fail and then make them pay for it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


We only require one receptacle here. The only time I would put one on each end is if the countertop was divided by a sink or cooktop.

Why let it fail? Just get it done, get it inspected, get outta there and get paid.


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

99cents said:


> Why let it fail? Just get it done, get it inspected, get outta there and get paid.


Because receptacle placement on a marble waterfall island countertop is as much of a design/aesthetic issue as it is a code issue. This is a decision making process I prefer to stay out of. I can offer opinions and options, but as far as "just doing something" in a designer kitchen... yeah, no thanks.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MDShunk said:


> Because receptacle placement on a marble waterfall island countertop is as much of a design/aesthetic issue as it is a code issue. This is a decision making process I prefer to stay out of. I can offer opinions and options, but as far as "just doing something" in a designer kitchen... yeah, no thanks.


Not what I meant. Somebody has to be called in to cut a hole. No sense waiting for a failed inspection. A receptacle is code so may as well get it done.


----------



## Smileyboy (Apr 24, 2007)

99cents said:


> Not what I meant. Somebody has to be called in to cut a hole. No sense waiting for a failed inspection. A receptacle is code so may as well get it done.




Good point. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Dennis puts in those single receptacles that fit into a round hole. Might be half a solution.


----------



## Tonedeaf (Nov 26, 2012)

the granite guy can cut an outlet hole for you.


----------



## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

In Ontario, if there was no receptacle in that island the EC would get the fail and it goes on the EC's record. There is no advantage to have an inspection fail.

Cheers
John


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

I've had high end kitchen islands and customers
along with them that we did nothing to except
get the power somewher in the island.

* I've seen ones where there was no place to 
put one , unless they drill the hole in the top
* I've had customers who are adamant about not
having one in the side or top of the island just
because ..(both HO's & GC's who do not want
to see the outlet on their beautiful expensive 
islands)
I completely agree with Shunk...this is now a 
design issue...just get the power there and 
shoot them an email for a decision.


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

99cents said:


> Wherever the hole is cut.
> 
> Were there drawings? This is a tough one. You have a bank of drawers on each side. Someone may have to cut a drawer short to make room for your wiring. Then someone has to cut a hole for your receptacle. The cheesy thing to do is put it in the back.


If the overhang is 15" as stated, the back is not an option as 210.52(C)(5) exception to (5) states the receptacle can not be under an overhang that overhangs greater than 6" from the support base.



MDShunk said:


> I used to really twist my brain, trying to find solutions to weird kitchen island and peninsula counter placement. In later times, I simply did nothing, while giving the customer or GC had the head's up the inspector might require a receptacle there, and I let it fail inspection. That shifts the burden onto the designer to sort out a receptacle placement.


I tell my contractors to inform the GC or owner of the issue and present options to them. I would not advise them to wait until it fails my inspection. Now if they decide they don't want one there and don't listen to the EC (it has happened) then by all means let it fail and I can be the bad guy that forces them to add that unsightly receptacle. Of course they could always file for a code variance but that takes money and lots of time...



99cents said:


> We only require one receptacle here. The only time I would put one on each end is if the countertop was divided by a sink or cooktop.
> 
> Why let it fail? Just get it done, get it inspected, get outta there and get paid.


If there is 12" or more of counter top behind the dividing equipment you can still use only one, provided there are no local amendments.



MDShunk said:


> Because receptacle placement on a marble waterfall island countertop is as much of a design/aesthetic issue as it is a code issue. This is a decision making process I prefer to stay out of. I can offer opinions and options, but as far as "just doing something" in a designer kitchen... yeah, no thanks.


That would bother me if I was your client or GC. I would hope you would bring it up rather than wait until it fails an inspection to mention it.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I want to know when the decision was made to put granite on the sides. Was it on the drawings or was it a decision made on the fly? Regardless, it has to be taken care of. Anybody experienced in the reno business knows there needs to be a receptacle in the island. If somebody wanted to fight me on this issue, I would just say the inspector is my boss and he's the guy I answer to.

That just leaves a decision as to where the receptacle goes and how the wiring gets routed. Like I said, it might involve cutting a drawer short. Waiting for a failed inspection makes no sense; it needs to get done sooner or later. Everybody, including us, gets paid on completion. If a hole in a piece of granite is standing in the way of money changing hands, it will get done.


----------



## Smileyboy (Apr 24, 2007)

Any suggestions as to where to put it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

pudge565 said:


> If the overhang is 15" as stated, the back is not an option as 210.52(C)(5) exception to (5) states the receptacle can not be under an overhang that overhangs greater than 6" from the support base.


We have very similar code up here too.


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

That thing is a monstrosity. It deserves to be banned from this forum. Permanently.


----------



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

My house has had an island for decades.

I can't recall the last time anyone used an electrical appliance on it.

This is where the NEC/ CEC is being used as a DESIGN mandate.

In such high-end kitchens, there is simply NO END of receptacles and counter space ringing the island. 

No wonder the Interior Designer hoped he could get away with daring the Inspector-gods.


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

telsa said:


> My house has had an island for decades.
> 
> I can't recall the last time anyone used an electrical appliance on it.
> 
> ...


Design? Is that what that island is? :devil3:
That has got to be theeee ugliest island i
ever seen


----------



## FWW56 (Oct 29, 2008)

lighterup said:


> Design? Is that what that island is? :devil3:
> That has got to be theeee ugliest island i
> ever seen


I've worked on many $100k kitchens and high end bathrooms and have run onto similar situations many times. Think outside of the box. I see three easy to execute solutions. 

Option 1. Place a surface mounted box (wiremold, hubbell etc. I prefer nm.) on the underside of the overhanging countertop facing down. I typically attach it with epoxy. Place it within 6" of the edge of the counter near the juncture with the side. This is discrete, maintains the "clean" island design, puts it up and out of the way but still accesible.

You can also mount it to the side panel under the overhang within 6" of the edge and less than 12" beneath the surface of the top. Although when mounted to the side it is much more noticable. 

Option 2. Have the GC remove one of the drawers and install a filler panel to the cabinet face frame to cover the drawer opening. Cut in an old work box as you would if installing in the cabinet side, install the receptical and your work is complete. The GC or kitcken installer will then need to take the drawer front, install hinges to the bottom of the front and install it to cover the opening. Flip the front down and the receptacle is readily accessible, close it and it disappears. Design integrity maintained. 

Option 3. Place the receptacle in a surface mounted box just inside one of the cabinet doors beneath the drawers within 6" of the edge and 12" of the top.

I have used each of these solutions as an electrical contractor and accepted them and even suggested them when I worked as an inspector to other electricians when faced with similar situations. As long as the receptacle is located within 6"of the edge counter and located within 12" of the surface of the top you are code compliant. These solutions satisfy not only the letter of the code but more importantantly the intent of the code. 

I would always present it to the customer as, "There WILL be a receptacle installed in your island. Here are you options." 

They've spent a considerable amount of money on the kitchen design, this just another line item needed to satisfy the code achieve that unique design. 

Frank

Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

telsa said:


> My house has had an island for decades.
> 
> I can't recall the last time anyone used an electrical appliance on it.
> 
> ...


The intent of the rule is logical. They don't want extension cords strung across a traffic area. I had a job a year ago where running a receptacle in an island was almost impossible. The HO disn't want it anyway. The city demanded I put one in. I figured out a way.

I talked to the HO last week. She uses it all the time.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I don't know why cabinet manufacturers don't make allowance for wiring, even making a short drawer available. Ikea is the worst.


----------



## FWW56 (Oct 29, 2008)

99cents said:


> I don't know why cabinet manufacturers don't make allowance for wiring, even making a short drawer available. Ikea is the worst.


The designers are the worse. They come up with these stunning designs with no consideration for the codes. I once had a "discussion" with one of these designets and told her that she was shortchanging her clients by giving them ideas that could not be legaly implemented. She continued to let me know just how much money she spent on her education. I told her she should have spent another $59.00 on a code book and walked away. 
Frank

Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Which is why I don't put myself in the position to be the bad guy anymore. Let the big, bad inspector be the bad guy. I used to give all these options, none of which anyone particularly liked 100%, and let them pick. They were now compliant but they had a design compromise, and- in their mind- I was the guy that "made them" have this design compromise. If I just give them a head's up that the inspector is going to want one, well... when he does, he's the bad guy. The best thing I can do is pre-provision to make this eventual receptacle easy to install; whatever trim or mounting method is finally decided upon.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

On rare occasions I have intentionally failed an inspection to prove a point. Sometimes it isn't worth it to argue with a customer. Inspectors are paid to be the bad guy.


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

I also seem to recall a rule about long islands that require more than one outlet?


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

eddy current said:


> I also seem to recall a rule about long islands that require more than one outlet?


Disclaimor: I have not worked for a new construction
resi GC in over 2 years now and (actually closer to 3)
but I have still been doing new homes.

More and more frequently , one of the popular designs
is to put the kitchen sink or a butler sink in the island.

what people aren't getting is that this now changes 
the classification from an "island" to a "free standing 
bar" , which not only needs outlets to code per
rules for an island gfci receptacle , but also needs
outlets per "wall space".

Talk about watching designers flip out.:vs_mad:


----------



## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

99cents said:


> On rare occasions I have intentionally failed an inspection to prove a point. Sometimes it isn't worth it to argue with a customer. Inspectors are paid to be the bad guy.


Is it different in Alberta? Why would I want a defect on my record as an electrical contractor to prove a point to a customer?

If you try to "prove a point" too many times you will lose your license!

The EC is responsible for a code compliant installation, not the customer.

What does the customer lose if you fail an inspection?

Cheers
John


----------



## mitch65 (Mar 26, 2015)

Smileyboy said:


> Any suggestions as to where to put it?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would suggest one of these, either installed in an end or in the center at one or both ends of the top.
http://www.lewelectric.com/kitchen-countertop/


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Navyguy said:


> Is it different in Alberta? Why would I want a defect on my record as an electrical contractor to prove a point to a customer?
> 
> If you try to "prove a point" too many times you will lose your license!
> 
> ...



Like I said, it's rare.


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

eddy current said:


> I also seem to recall a rule about long islands that require more than one outlet?


No such rule in the NEC. I see you are in Canada, CEC may have a rule on that.



lighterup said:


> Disclaimor: I have not worked for a new construction
> resi GC in over 2 years now and (actually closer to 3)
> but I have still been doing new homes.
> 
> ...


That is not true, just because you install a sink in the island it does not become a wet bar. If the sink has less than 12" of countertop space behind it it does divide the countertop and now requires two receptacles though.


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

pudge565 said:


> No such rule in the NEC. I see you are in Canada, CEC may have a rule on that.
> 
> 
> 
> That is not true, just because you install a sink in the island it does not become a wet bar. If the sink has less than 12" of countertop space behind it it does divide the countertop and now requires two receptacles though.


I was red tagged for this a few years back.
I asked for an adjudication order and lost the
argument ( similar to yours)

210 52 (C) 4 refers you back to (C) 1 if there
is a sink involved.

The illustration shown on page 70-65 is showing
an island about the fourth of a size island that 
I regularly see so there would be many more
outlets required in my application.

So yes , it is true.


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

lighterup said:


> I was red tagged for this a few years back.
> I asked for an adjudication order and lost the
> argument ( similar to yours)
> 
> ...



Islands don't typically have any wall counter top spaces so (C)(1) does not apply. The second half of (C)(4) talks about splitting the counter top space of an island or peninsula and it refers you back to 210.52(C) in general. You follow (C)(2) or (C)(3) for islands or peninsulas respectively. (C)(1) only applies if there is a wall behind the counter top.


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Some islands are island height on one half and "stool height" on the other half, essentially giving it a little 6" wall along its length, making regular counter receptacle spacing kick in.


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

pudge565 said:


> Islands don't typically have any wall counter top spaces so (C)(1) does not apply. The second half of (C)(4) talks about splitting the counter top space of an island or peninsula and it refers you back to 210.52(C) in general. You follow (C)(2) or (C)(3) for islands or peninsulas respectively. (C)(1) only applies if there is a wall behind the counter top.



I have to go with what I read and the AHJ inspecting.
210.52(C) ..for counter top a*nd work surfaces* *shall be *
installed in accordance with 210 52 (C) (1) through (C) (5)...

I did not see "back splash" mentioned in my 2017 NEC code book
and neither do the AHJ's here...The the response to my request 
for an adjudication order didn't mention "Wet Bar", but rather
"free standing bar" was the term they used. Trust me , I want
to only put (1) gfci protected receptacle in an an island , but am
dealing with far more than this.

It's been through an appeal...I lost the appeal.


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> Some islands are island height on one half and "stool height" on the other half, essentially giving it a little 6" wall along its length, making regular counter receptacle spacing kick in.


If there is wall space absolutely but I have yet to see a freestanding Island set up that way.

I have seen a lot like the OP though, the GC, homeowner, designer etc don't like when I tell them they need at least one receptacle on the island. Usually they end up epoxying a wiremold box under the counter top within 6" of the edge to comply yet keep it hidden.


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

lighterup said:


> I have to go with what I read and the AHJ inspecting.
> 210.52(C) ..for counter top a*nd work surfaces* *shall be *
> installed in accordance with 210 52 (C) (1) through (C) (5)...
> 
> ...


Again, (C)(1) applies to WALL SPACES, no wall no need to comply with (C)(1).

Screenshot from the 2017 NEC.


----------



## Anathera (Feb 16, 2016)

hubbell pop up receptacle near the middle or two on the middle thirds for me. Though I like the wiremold box up on the underside. In that vein too a strip of plug mold might be helpful for solving that issue but good luck finding a place for it. I am assuming there are more cabinets going in the open space?

My FAVORITE fix for this would be a TRUFIG outlet or two on the sides but good luck talking them into the price tag


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

pudge565 said:


> Again, (C)(1) applies to WALL SPACES, no wall no need to comply with (C)(1).
> 
> Screenshot from the 2017 NEC.


thanx


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

The thing that makes it an Island is it is out in the middle of the room, not the absence of any raised splash. If it has a raised splash it is still an island. (unless that has been amended in later than 2011 code cycles. 210.52 (C) (5) exception to (5) Defines the requirements for island outlet and (1) and (2) allow for the over the side mounting within the prescribed size of the overhang being not more than 6".


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> The thing that makes it an Island is it is out in the middle of the room, not the absence of any raised splash. If it has a raised splash it is still an island. (unless that has been amended in later than 2011 code cycles. 210.52 (C) (5) exception to (5) Defines the requirements for island outlet and (1) and (2) allow for the over the side mounting within the prescribed size of the overhang being not more than 6".


I partially disagree with this. Yes it is still an island but (C)(2) says at least one receptacle outlet. There is nothing in there limiting it to only one or 2 if the space is divided. If there is a backsplash that could be considered wall space and that would require you to follow (C)(1). I have personally never seen an island like that though, not that they don't exist I have just never seen one in my (relatively short) career.


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Hi Pudge.


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> Hi Pudge.


Hi Mac, how have you been? Where is Hack, I said Hi to him in another thread and he hasn't replied. He hurt my feelings!


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

pudge565 said:


> Hi Mac, how have you been? Where is Hack, I said Hi to him in another thread and he hasn't replied. He hurt my feelings!


He was banned from the outpost


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

lighterup said:


> He was banned from the outpost


Again, what the heck did he do now!?


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

pudge565 said:


> Again, what the heck did he do now!?


I'm not privy to anything else.

Quite frankly , I'm seriously considering boycotting until
he is invited back.


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

pudge565 said:


> No such rule in the NEC. I see you are in Canada, CEC may have a rule on that.


I found what I was thinking of.
It's not in the CEC but actually an amendment for the province of Ontario. Bulletin 26-23-3

If there is a division in the island like a sink or cook-top, and the counter on each side is 300mm x 600mm (1' x 2') or bigger, each side would have to have an outlet. PITA


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

lighterup said:


> Quite frankly , I'm seriously considering boycotting until
> he is invited back.


Don't make any promises you can't keep Lighter. :wink:

JK :vs_laugh:


----------



## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

eddy current said:


> Don't make any promises you can't keep Lighter. :wink:
> 
> JK :vs_laugh:


I could keep that promise if I chose to...
but it's not relevant.

There are others that come on daily that are tighter
with him then me and they don't seem to care.


----------



## bostonPedro (Nov 14, 2017)

Have them make that 15 inch overhang a 11.5 inch overhang. They have to put something up to cover the back of the cabinets so tell them to frame a wall with 3 inch metal studs and when this is done have them cut out an old work hole that lines up with it on the side of the island . The 3 inch metal stud scenario is pretty much standard on any high end high rise I work on, Use a Legrand pop out outlet......this seems to be the new thing all of sudden for residential high rise island outlets


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

lighterup said:


> I could keep that promise if I chose to...
> but it's not relevant.
> 
> There are others that come on daily that are tighter
> with him then me and they don't seem to care.


I care a lot, but I have friends that go out when the surf is insanely huge and dangerous. And often when they get home from work and the sun will be going down in less than an hour. They wouldn't listen to me if I tried to stop them anyhow. Like Ace Cool. Alex just went and didn't come back. That's how he was. That's how Hax is too.


----------



## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

mitch65 said:


> I would suggest one of these, either installed in an end or in the center at one or both ends of the top.
> http://www.lewelectric.com/kitchen-countertop/


I have installed quite a few of these now and the clients love them. Have only done the round ones, not the rectangle ones.

Cheers
John


----------



## Anathera (Feb 16, 2016)

Www.trufig.com


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

bostonPedro said:


> Have them make that 15 inch overhang a 11.5 inch overhang. They have to put something up to cover the back of the cabinets so tell them to frame a wall with 3 inch metal studs and when this is done have them cut out an old work hole that lines up with it on the side of the island . The 3 inch metal stud scenario is pretty much standard on any high end high rise I work on, Use a Legrand pop out outlet......this seems to be the new thing all of sudden for residential high rise island outlets


How does making the overhang 11.5" as opposed to 15" do anything?


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

eddy current said:


> I found what I was thinking of.
> It's not in the CEC but actually an amendment for the province of Ontario. Bulletin 26-23-3
> 
> If there is a division in the island like a sink or cook-top, and the counter on each side is 300mm x 600mm (1' x 2') or bigger, each side would have to have an outlet. PITA


That isn't what you said though, you said long islands that require more than one. NEC has the same rule for a break in the counter top space. If the space behind the sink or other equipment dividing the spaces is less than 12" then it is 2 spaces and each space needs a receptacle.


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

pudge565 said:


> *That isn't what you said though*, you said long islands that require more than one. NEC has the same rule for a break in the counter top space. If the space behind the sink or other equipment dividing the spaces is less than 12" then it is 2 spaces and each space needs a receptacle.


Actually I sad “ I seem to recall” and ended it with a question mark implying that I don’t remember the reason why there might be more than one receptacle required. Sorry if you felt misled lain:

:vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


----------



## bostonPedro (Nov 14, 2017)

pudge565 said:


> How does making the overhang 11.5" as opposed to 15" do anything?


Because you now have a wall aka space to put an old work box in. It accomplishes EVERYTHING that we are required to do. 
Back of cabinets need to be finished as they are unfinished. 
They frame 3 inch studs under counter at the back of cabinets.
They cut hole into side of island that lines up with the 3 inch stud wall 
You run wire into wall and put in old work box into side of island
They finish that wall in whatever material they desire ie wood, sheetrock etc its really is not our concern

I keep reading about electricians cutting into cabinets with drawers etc etc and I understand why but the fact is that a wall should be built, back of cabinets are against the wall and we use the wall for an old work on the side. That is the standard in the several thousand of units I have been apart of the last few years. Even if both sides of island have cabinets there should be a wall and the both sides of cabinets go against that wall. The designer has no idea what they are doing


----------



## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

Couldn't you come up the inside behind the drawers, into the waterfall area, and surface mount something just under the overhang? Maybe short screws, or superglue? Seriously.


----------



## pudge565 (Dec 8, 2007)

bostonPedro said:


> Because you now have a wall aka space to put an old work box in. It accomplishes EVERYTHING that we are required to do.
> Back of cabinets need to be finished as they are unfinished.
> They frame 3 inch studs under counter at the back of cabinets.
> They cut hole into side of island that lines up with the 3 inch stud wall
> ...


If it is under the overhang greater than 6" it still doesn't comply though, wall or no wall.


----------



## bostonPedro (Nov 14, 2017)

pudge565 said:


> If it is under the overhang greater than 6" it still doesn't comply though, wall or no wall.


Its on the side of the island NOT under the overhang. 

Look at the OP's first picture. 
That is the back of the cabinets 
Now imagine a 3 inch metal stud wall framed in 
So you now have the back of the cabinets against the wall. 
The stone will then be cut on the side of the island in line with that wall. 
You then put your old work box there. All you have to do is cut the metal stud to fit in your box


----------

