# Which contactor would you use?



## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

Is this such a poorly worked question that no one understands it? 

I'm really looking for opinions on which type of contactor you would use in this situation? Would it be a NEMA rated only? Would you use a lighting contactor?

Would you not consider a contactor and stick with a shunt trip?

Would you just not do this job? :laughing:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

OK, I passed on this question because it is like a Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge argument.

I don't think any electrically held contactor is going to last as long as the rest of your installation.

I think that when it does go that there is a very large chance it would be bypassed instead of replacing it. I can hear someone working on it in the future _'Why the heck is this here, they don't need it I will just bypass it'._ Now I know we can't idiot proof everything but it is how I see it.

If the choice was mine I would use a shunt trip breaker. I might try to set it up to dump out if the control circuit fails but it is not required.


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

BBQ said:


> I might try to set it up to dump out if the control circuit fails but it is not required.


How would you do that? 

Thanks!


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

hardworkingstiff said:


> How would you do that?
> 
> Thanks!


Tap the line side of the shunt breaker to a over current device and keep that circuit entirely inside the same enclosure as the shunt breaker itself. Yes something could happen to that circuit but not very likely.

Run that circuit through a normally closed relay that gets it's power from another circuit. The idea being only the wiring leaving the shunt enclosure is subject to damage.


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## vizzolts (Sep 10, 2009)

Inline fuses and rubberized multiport taps or distribution blocks...I say use the line side of the incoming circuit and keep the control self contained. If using a contactor I'd say picking the right enclosure and designing the install would make the biggest difference.


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