# need help deciding how big of a sub panel i need?



## sfeyelectric (Dec 31, 2010)

15 amp kit GFCI circuit

Is this for the counter-top area?


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## farlsincharge (Dec 31, 2010)

I'm assuming the cooktop is 240v?
I'm interested in this 15a gfi circuit as well, care to clarify.

I wouldn't go smaller than 60a in any case. Depending on where you are locating the sub panel and how full the main panel is, it might be worth it to go bigger for future expansion.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

I'd run a 60 or a 100 if I thought there was a real chance of additional loads were being added in the future.


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## kaboler (Dec 1, 2010)

Would this fall under code that talks about "apartment and similar buildings"? Because it sounds like you're taking in a tenant.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

Our friends in Canada are allowed to run 15 A kitchen and bath circuits under the CEC.


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## miller_elex (Jan 25, 2008)

bushwickbill said:


> 15 amp cook top


Every cooktop I've done has been a 10/2 homerun to a 2P-30A CB.

ARE YOU sure??


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Just off the cuff I'd go 100 amps on that. Would be overkill but 60 is close.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

miller_elex said:


> Every cooktop I've done has been a 10/2 homerun to a 2P-30A CB.
> 
> ARE YOU sure??



10/2???? Almost everyone I have done for 30 years was a 10/3 nm. 60 is sufficient for the sub. Go 100 if you need to expand a lot at a later date.


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## ohmega (Apr 19, 2010)

Only one 15a kitchen circuit? Might be hard to use the toaster, cook you're hotpocket, and run the margarita maker at the same time.


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## miller_elex (Jan 25, 2008)

Dennis Alwon said:


> 10/2???? Almost everyone I have done for 30 years was a 10/3 nm.


Yeah, I never seen a neut. on a cooktop. The only 10/3 I ran in new construction was for the A/C.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

miller_elex said:


> Yeah, I never seen a neut. on a cooktop. The only 10/3 I ran in new construction was for the A/C.


Electric dryer?


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## bushwickbill (Jan 17, 2010)

Woops, I meant to say 20 Amp kit GFCI.
And cook top is 120 Volt , And as long as it draws less than 15 amp I can stick it on a 15 amp circuit. And my dad is just making his basement into a room for his Mom to stay in. 
And Dryer is also electric.


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## cbjuray (Oct 12, 2008)

If you have a 150 amp service or larger, Subfeed the additional panel (100 amp) with a 2 pole 100 amp breaker from the existing service panel.
The panels are cheap enough, so don't scrimp on size.
Also use the appropriate size 4 conductor SER cable and isolate neutral 
from ground in the new panel.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

miller_elex said:


> Yeah, I never seen a neut. on a cooktop. The only 10/3 I ran in new construction was for the A/C.


I am not sure whether to take you seriously with this statement. You must live in another universe. :laughing:


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## BCSparkyGirl (Aug 20, 2009)

ohmega said:


> Only one 15a kitchen circuit? Might be hard to use the toaster, cook you're hotpocket, and run the margarita maker at the same time.


it can be done, but it is a delicate balancing act:laughing:

I just ripped all that crap outta my kitchen.....20A is the way to go........more hotpockets!:thumbsup:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

bushwickbill said:


> Hi all, I am trying to figure out how big of a sub panel and a breaker my dads house will need to run;
> 30 amp dryer
> 20 amp garage circuit
> 20amp kit GFCI circuit
> ...


This is how I would figure it, and this is way above code requirements. 

30 amp dryer - 5kw
20 amp garage circuit - 1.5kw
20amp kit GFCI circuit - 1.5kw
15 amp cook top - figure this for 30 amp, or 5kw
15 amp bedroom circuit 1.2kw
15 amp living room circuit 1.2kw

15.4kw/ 240v = 64 amps

But there's no way you'd ever come close to using all that amperage all at once.


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

cbjuray said:


> If you have a 150 amp service or larger, Subfeed the additional panel (100 amp) with a 2 pole 100 amp breaker from the existing service panel.
> The panels are cheap enough, so don't scrimp on size.
> Also use the appropriate size 4 conductor SER cable and isolate neutral
> from ground in the new panel.


Under CEC you would have to run #3 AWG if you want a 100 Amp sub. 
As previuosly stated, a 60 sub (#6 AWG) would be sufficient, but if the sub is close, then go with a 100. Since the suite is in the basement and its for mom, better count on some extra electric heat too

Also for all for all of us, you may want to verify the loads on some of the new appliances. On 2 of the latest residential projects, we had a 60 amp cable with neutral for the cooktop and a single convection oven. We treat our residential projects like our commercial ones. I demand cut sheets for all equipment on these jobs. Our residential jobs are custom and the customers pour lots of money into their appliances 

Under CEC, not baring local admendments, you can install 2 split 15 amp circuits in the kitchen. The GFCI requirements for the sink area, is where the 20 amp circuit rule came in to play. A lot cheaper to buy a GFCI receptacle than a 2 pole GFCI breaker


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