# Cheapest knockout kit that’s any good?



## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

There’s plenty of choices out there in all different price ranges. My one guy shop electrician buddy has a really nice hydraulic greenlee he paid a lot for and my journey man whose a part company owner always uses the hole saw when needed. I wouldn’t mind getting a knock out set of my own if any of the cheaper ones are worth trying. Just wondering if anyone has high praises for any of them or is it a matter of you get what you pay for?


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Do you guys in the Great White North have Harbor Freight/ Harbour Freight?
They have a $99 USD, often on sale with a coupon for %20 off, down to like $79 USD. I think that's about $300 cd.








14 Piece Hydraulic Punch Driver Kit


Amazing deals on this 14Pc Hydraulic Punch Driver Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




www.harborfreight.com






https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11983.jpg


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

I’ve had that Harbor Freight kit for years. Not my primary anymore but you can’t beat that kit for the money. I punched a lot of holes and the only issue I had was it leaked a little oil occasionally. Only reason it’s not on the van anymore is I bought a Greenlee set that went up to 4” for 600$ and I like a 1 kit do it all deal.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

Southeast Power said:


> Do you guys in the Great White North have Harbor Freight/ Harbour Freight?
> They have a $99 USD, often on sale with a coupon for %20 off, down to like $79 USD. I think that's about $300 cd.
> 
> 
> ...


 We don’t have harbour freight unfortunately no. Princess Auto might be the closest substitute


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Phillipd said:


> We don’t have harbour freight unfortunately no. Princess Auto might be the closest substitute


Canadian Ebay has one:
VEVOR 10 Ton Hydraulic Knockout Punch Driver Kit 1/2"-2" Conduit Hole 6 Dies





VEVOR 10 Ton Hydraulic Knockout Punch Driver Kit 1 2 2 Conduit Hole 6 Dies for sale | eBay


Find great deals on eBay for VEVOR 10 Ton Hydraulic Knockout Punch Driver Kit 1 2 2 Conduit Hole 6 Dies. Shop with confidence.



www.ebay.ca


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

The first thing I'd buy which are cheap and not like an investment are the Milwaukee Shockwave or Dewault impact rated hole cutters, these are what I usually use for 1/2, 3/4, and 1" unless there's a reason to punch rather than drill. They do not last but they're very handy and worth what they cost. 

The first thing I'd invest real money in is a set of high quality carbide cutters, these will last a long time if not abused, they work in the heaviest stainless, compact and quick. 

If you need punches up to 2", the Greenlee slugbuster set with the ratcheting box end wrench is what I'd buy. It is $300 compared to the $100 Horrible Freight but it will last longer and it's much more compact, and works great. 

If you have to go beyond that, there's a set from Temco that goes up to 4" for under $300, I expect Harbor Freight quality, and the Greenlee which costs a fortune. I think there may be another Greenlee alternative I can't remember. If I was going to invest though, I'd probably invest in the even more expensive one that can punch stainless. So far, it's been better to borrow or hire a friend who has the big set, I haven't bought one.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

Southeast Power said:


> Canadian Ebay has one:
> VEVOR 10 Ton Hydraulic Knockout Punch Driver Kit 1/2"-2" Conduit Hole 6 Dies
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you ,those are about 1/4 the price of greenlee.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

splatz said:


> The first thing I'd buy which are cheap and not like an investment are the Milwaukee Shockwave or Dewault impact rated hole cutters, these are what I usually use for 1/2, 3/4, and 1" unless there's a reason to punch rather than drill. They do not last but they're very handy and worth what they cost.
> 
> The first thing I'd invest real money in is a set of high quality carbide cutters, these will last a long time if not abused, they work in the heaviest stainless, compact and quick.
> 
> ...



Thank you I’ll look into those as well


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

Phillipd said:


> We don’t have harbour freight unfortunately no. Princess Auto might be the closest substitute


The Princess Auto kit is pretty good. 
I have 2 greenlee and 1 PA . Virtually impossible to differentiate performance. ( haven't used the PA with dies larger than 2")
While hole saws are fast, I don't like the mess they make. Shavings everywhere are harder to clean up, specially in panels.
Unless you are working commercial, you won't make many KOs, so a hand set would be adequate.
As an aside, no contractor should expect an apprentice to buy a hydraulic set. So unless you a tool whore , save your money


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

wcord said:


> The Princess Auto kit is pretty good.
> I have 2 greenlee and 1 PA . Virtually impossible to differentiate performance. ( haven't used the PA with dies larger than 2")
> While hole saws are fast, I don't like the mess they make. Shavings everywhere are harder to clean up, specially in panels.
> Unless you are working commercial, you won't make many KOs, so a hand set would be adequate.
> As an aside, no contractor should expect an apprentice to buy a hydraulic set. So unless you a tool whore , save your money



Haha no I’m not expected to have anything but my kit at work ,just looking to collect here and there for whatever may come along down the road.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

When I started out, I bought a Slugbuster set off kijiji. I still have it. I paired it up with a cheap impact wrench from Canadian Tire (they’re always on sale). You can use a cordless impact driver as well but it doesn’t have the power of the corded battleship.


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## blueheels2 (Apr 22, 2009)

Wayne Griffin required field guys to buy a ko set and at the time I was making a lot of 3/4 holes 1” so I knew I needed one. Guy on site had the Harbor Freight and was showing it off to everyone. I think they sold 10 in Raleigh that week. But personally I think it’s ridiculous to expect guys to own that tool. Should be the contractors responsibility.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Slug buster requires a hole which requires a drill. Easiest and faster way to drill the hole is with a carbide cutter. It also has the added bonus of being shorter than a standard 1/2" drill bit. 

I have the fancy greenlee Stainless Steel slug buster and its only used for 1-1/2 and above. I figure if im going to use the carbide cutter then i might as well drill it to size up to 1-1/4. (drill 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, slug bust to 1/2 then change punch draw bar and dies to correct size verses drill once)

The new greenlee set with quick connect and tapered center drill is the best you can buy for stainless. If you are only doing steel then you can buy a way cheaper set and still get good results. 
The real advantage of a slug buster is to make a existing hole bigger which can be done with a hole saw but is a pain to do.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

blueheels2 said:


> Wayne Griffin required field guys to buy a ko set and at the time I was making a lot of 3/4 holes 1” so I knew I needed one. Guy on site had the Harbor Freight and was showing it off to everyone. I think they sold 10 in Raleigh that week. But personally I think it’s ridiculous to expect guys to own that tool. Should be the contractors responsibility.


I wouldn't expect anyone to bring in anything from home except for the screwdrivers, side cutters, hammer, tape measure, hacksaw frame, and whatever is on the tool list.
One, I can't vouch for the quality or condition someone might have. If it's not sharp or if it has been stolen from another contractor, I don't want it on our jobs.
I will tool up a job as I see fit or how I bid it.
If you need a bender, ladder or power tools replaced, just ask, I'm not a mind reader.
If I can't find something in a reasonable time, I know Sunbelt Rentals can send us out what we need.
Second, if someone is relying on a tool that is in moderate condition, it's costing me money. Take it home and we will get whatever you need.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

gpop said:


> Slug buster requires a hole which requires a drill. Easiest and faster way to drill the hole is with a carbide cutter. It also has the added bonus of being shorter than a standard 1/2" drill bit.
> 
> I have the fancy greenlee Stainless Steel slug buster and its only used for 1-1/2 and above. I figure if im going to use the carbide cutter then i might as well drill it to size up to 1-1/4. (drill 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, slug bust to 1/2 then change punch draw bar and dies to correct size verses drill once)
> 
> ...


That’s pretty much how my jman does it too,if it’s an existing cabinet we just drape garbage bags over the internal equipment to keep filings from getting in and shorting out connections


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

gpop said:


> Slug buster requires a hole which requires a drill. Easiest and faster way to drill the hole is with a carbide cutter. It also has the added bonus of being shorter than a standard 1/2" drill bit.
> 
> I have the fancy greenlee Stainless Steel slug buster and its only used for 1-1/2 and above. I figure if im going to use the carbide cutter then i might as well drill it to size up to 1-1/4. (drill 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, slug bust to 1/2 then change punch draw bar and dies to correct size verses drill once)
> 
> ...


I’m reluctant to pay that kind of money for something disposable. How long do carbide cutters last?


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Had the ratchet sets, had the hydraulic sets. About 14yrs ago(?) I bought a drill-driven geared knockout punch set made by Ray Tools. I think they've been sold now. Anyway, the set goes up to 2-1/2" but I've used it up to 4". I replaced the RT cup&dies with the slugbusters out of a greenlee set so I wouldn't have to play around removing slugs. It came with 2 cobalt step drills that have cut 1000's of pilot holes and are still sharp.

I absolutly love this set and am still using it. Fast, no leaking oil, I think similar kits today are in the $1200.00 range. I think I payed $800.00-ish back then. Not cheap but I consider it to be one of the best tool investments I ever made.

Similar to this:









Gear Punch Knockout Kit 1/2″ – 2″ | iTOOLco


Lightweight and easy to use, the Gear Punch Knockout Set 1/2" - 2" comes with a lifetime replacement on draw studs.




itoolco.com


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

99cents said:


> I’m reluctant to pay that kind of money for something disposable. How long do carbide cutters last?


If you don't burn them or dull them, they hold up very well. I suspect good carbide cutters probably give you more holes for your dollar than regular hole saws.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

joe-nwt said:


> Gear Punch Knockout Kit 1/2″ – 2″ | iTOOLco
> 
> 
> Lightweight and easy to use, the Gear Punch Knockout Set 1/2" - 2" comes with a lifetime replacement on draw studs.
> ...


That's great. There's really no reason that 4" KOs in stainless shouldn't be doable with an 18V impact and low enough gear. If the low gear makes it take 30 seconds longer, who cares?


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

gpop said:


> Slug buster requires a hole which requires a drill. Easiest and faster way to drill the hole is with a carbide cutter. It also has the added bonus of being shorter than a standard 1/2" drill bit.


Think about that! Most of the time with the carbide cutter you're done in about the same time it takes to drill the pilot hole for the punch.


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

99cents said:


> When I started out, I bought a Slugbuster set off kijiji. I still have it. I paired it up with a cheap impact wrench from Canadian Tire (they’re always on sale). You can use a cordless impact driver as well but it doesn’t have the power of the corded battleship.
> View attachment 154638


I've been using impacts with KOs for many years. 

I started out with pneumatic before they had cordless ones. 

Impacts work well up to 2", after that I'll get out the hydraulic pump and cylinder. 

By hydraulic, I mean either the hand pump or an air over hydraulic one. If it's only one or 2, I'll use the hand pump. If it's a bunch of them, like a switchgear or MCC, I'll use the air one. Much easier on the arms.......


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

99cents said:


> I’m reluctant to pay that kind of money for something disposable. How long do carbide cutters last?



i get about 40-50 holes in stainless per cutter (i never use any kind of oil or cutting fluid). As long as you pulse the drill while bearing down on it they do well. Down side is the swarf comes off like a drill and it burns your hands if you are drilling from the bottom. Im lucky if i get 30 holes from a 1/2 drill bit so the cutters work out cheaper. 

Hold your finger down on the trigger with out pushing on the cutter and you will heat harden the stainless you are cutting and its going to be a expensive hole. 

We hired a contractor on a job with a 8 hr power down window. 4 guys took over 2 and a half hours trying to make 6 holes in a stainless cabinet due to crap tools. (we ended up punching the hole for them in the end or they would never have got done). We don't even send out jobs bids to them anymore due to that performance. We pay contractors enough to buy the tools and throw them away at the end of the job so there's was no excuse.


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

So this is the set I would recommend getting if you're not doing a lot of KO's. It has the 1/2" thru to 2" trade sizes, and the ratchet wrench. PUNCH & DIE SET-1/2"-2"SLUG BUSTER | Greenlee

But that is not the set that I own. I own this set: Slug-Buster® 1/2" - 1-1/4" Manual Knockout Set | Greenlee
It doesn't have a 2" KO punch, but my dad had a spare one, so I have a 2" KO punch now, it just doesn't live in the kit. It also doesn't have a ratcheting wrench nor the 1 1/2" KO, which I am okay with. I have a 1" combination wrench that is perfect for the kit. We used to use just a crescent wrench, but having a combination wrench works better. I also own the M18 1/2" drive mid-torque impact, so if I have to do a lot of knockouts, I just use that (or heck, even a normal drill with socket attachment).

I got my kit for like 100$ used on Kijiji. They guy took good care of it, as when I picked it up, they were all well oiled sitting in the case. No rust, and looks like it was hardly used. Heck, the kit is an older one that would have had a smaller bolt size for the 1/2" punch, but the guy had replaced it with the one with a 1" bolt head so you only need one wrench. The newer kits come with the larger bolt already.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Phillipd said:


> That’s pretty much how my jman does it too,if it’s an existing cabinet we just drape garbage bags over the internal equipment to keep filings from getting in and shorting out connections


I had a leather pouch that was magnetic. You just stick it under where you are drilling and it catches everything. It was also good at keeping wires out of the way.

Someone was so impressed with it that they stole it and i have never got around to buying another one.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

gpop said:


> I had a leather pouch that was magnetic. You just stick it under where you are drilling and it catches everything. It was also good at keeping wires out of the way.
> 
> Someone was so impressed with it that they stole it and i have never got around to buying another one.











Dirt Bag - Rack-A-Tiers Since 1995


Features: Frame measurements: 5" x 5" OD - 3 7/8" x 3 7/8" ID. Ensures that your safety is #1. Magnet in base of bag attracts fillings. Easily attaches to metal surfaces. Made from non-conductive material. Removable magnet included in bag pocket. Anti-static liner. Fits most panels...




www.rack-a-tiers.com


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

splatz said:


> If you don't burn them or dull them, they hold up very well. I suspect good carbide cutters probably give you more holes for your dollar than regular hole saws.


Brand name? Lenox, Klown, Ideal? I like Diablo but I don’t think they make an electrician’s carbide set. I’m not in love with Milwaukee.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I couldn’t help myself. 🤣


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

gpop said:


> I had a leather pouch that was magnetic. You just stick it under where you are drilling and it catches everything. It was also good at keeping wires out of the way.
> 
> Someone was so impressed with it that they stole it and i have never got around to buying another one.





gpop said:


> I had a leather pouch that was magnetic. You just stick it under where you are drilling and it catches everything. It was also good at keeping wires out of the way.
> 
> Someone was so impressed with it that they stole it and i have never got around to buying another one.


The thriving b-tards ! That would have been handy


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

99cents said:


> I couldn’t help myself. 🤣
> 
> View attachment 154639


I love my Milwaukee’s I have of my own but the Bosh power tools at work take a heck of a beating and they all keep going.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

99cents said:


> Brand name? Lenox, Klown, Ideal? I like Diablo but I don’t think they make an electrician’s carbide set. I’m not in love with Milwaukee.


I got some Lenox on clearance and they're very good so far.

@CMP posted about Blair, if I was going to invest in a set, I'd buy them, the Chinese ones from Klein etc. are also very expensive so you might as well go all in. 

Which carbide cutter

I have been buying the Milwaukee Shockwave cutters for 1/2" - 3/4" and 1" - @macmikeman posted about those - they are handy and quick on mild steel with a hex shaft for the impact. They don't hold up but I need cheap knockarounds too.


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

Phillipd said:


> I wouldn’t mind getting a knock out set of my own if any of the cheaper ones are worth trying. ...


Why? You're an apprentice. Don't waste your money buying tools the shop should provide. Pilot bits, drill indexes, hacksaw blades, razor blades, hole saws, arbors, all of these are consumables- the contractor calculates the cost of these into the bids. I've worked on jobs where gangboxes of drills, cords, hammerdrills, holesaws were just thrown away or given to the men at jobs end - gangbox included. 

Part of being an apprentice is learning - learning how to get the work done, learning how electricity and the physical parts and pieces all fit together to make it work for us, and how all those parts and pieces get installed properly. But you also need to learn how the business works - how the electrical industry works in particular, the game of contracting and development, but also how business works in general. It's all about the Benjamins.

The name of the game for you, your journeyman, your contractor, the contractor who hired your contractor (usually the GC), and whoever hired them-is to make some of their money your money. Your money is made by providing your time, your labor, your physical body and your skills and help to make the work happen. You get $XX.XX amount per hour for that. They're paying you from the neck down. They hired an apprentice, not a fully stocked tool crib. Would you take a thumb drive from your boss home every week and use your printer, paper and ink to do the company's printing, and bring that work to the shop Monday morning? Because you own a computer and printer? No. So why are you considering buying and supplying a tool that every contractor should have?

When you think you need to KO a box, you're wrong. When you think you need to pull a homerun from box A to box B, you're wrong. When you think you need a better hacksaw blade, you're wrong. Get it out of your head that you have any needs while you are working other than a paycheck and to glean whatever knowledge and experience you can from the experience. You're just the labor. Yes you provide some of your own tools - hand tools. That's different because every electrician needs those, and they're relatively cheap and commonplace and they're quite personal. It would be an inefficient circle jerk of a bunch of workers had to share a pair of pliers, or a hammer, or a screwdriver.

But consumables and power tools and unique tools that are rarely used but nevertheless needed sometimes are the reason there is such a thing called "contracting." Contractors do nothing but put a bunch of people with the skills together necessary to get a job done, and put a bunch of tools like power tools, ladders, tuggers, snakes, wire reels, benders, pipe racks together to get the job done. Everything from 1/4" pilot bits to skidsteers to hydraulic lifts is the contractor's responsibility. You stick to hand tools.

Start talking and thinking about a project as a plurality. _They_ need a box knocked out, _they_ need a homerun pulled, and _they_ need a better hacksaw blade. Because _they_ need that work done, you don't. If you only have a dull KO punch or one that's a PITA to use, that's fine. You could dig a 100' trench 24" deep, or they can provide a backhoe and have it done in 20 minutes - that's their choice. But if they choose you to dig it, you don't get on your phone and hire a backhoe and operator at your expense to get it done for you, any more than you go to the tool store and buy a hydraulic KO punch that _you_ don't need, but _they_ do need.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Pay no attention to LawnGuy. Every respectable electrician has a set of tools. That set is not complete until you have at least one of everthing. That includes tools that aren't normally even used by electricians. And you don't even have to know what to do with them. The important thing is the having......


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

LawnGuyLandSparky said:


> Why? You're an apprentice. Don't waste your money buying tools the shop should provide. Pilot bits, drill indexes, hacksaw blades, razor blades, hole saws, arbors, all of these are consumables- the contractor calculates the cost of these into the bids. I've worked on jobs where gangboxes of drills, cords, hammerdrills, holesaws were just thrown away or given to the men at jobs end - gangbox included.
> 
> Part of being an apprentice is learning - learning how to get the work done, learning how electricity and the physical parts and pieces all fit together to make it work for us, and how all those parts and pieces get installed properly. But you also need to learn how the business works - how the electrical industry works in particular, the game of contracting and development, but also how business works in general. It's all about the Benjamins.
> 
> ...


Your completely right ,I’m not taking anything to work other than my hand tools. I’m just looking down the road a few years and picking up things here and there. In my mid-late 40’ having been self employed most of my working life or working with/for family I may quite possibly go back to that route at some point in the next 4-5 years health and God willing. 
I’m picking up all that I can each and every day, not too old or proud to do the grunt work. What most guys at work consider sh!t jobs don’t hold a candle to what I’ve been doing dairy farming. So long as I can get to an experienced and competent place in the trade that’s my goal at least for the time being. I’m fully aware that life on the other part of the paycheque brings with it an entire host of headaches so when/if the time comes I’m going to have to be very confident in my own skill set before leaving a good paying job that leaves the stress behind when I go home for the day. Just me rambling haha


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

I have the Slug buster set up to 2" with the ratcheting handle.
I only replace the dies as needed and that's not often. I take care of my stuff. 
I also have a notched die for oil tight switches. I'm a big fan of the square D switches and buttons they last forever.


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## paulengr (Oct 8, 2017)

I have the Temco set. I’ve had to replace the draw leads (threaded pieces) multiple times even brand mew. Split one of the dies in half. The Temco crimper is worth the $100. The hole punch not so much. The big plus is that it’s 100% Greenlee compatible so you can easily substitute between them.

In Greenlee they make the nice little set for a couple hundred that does 3/4” to 2” with just an adjustable wrench. Mils steel only.

I used to have issues with enlarging holes with hole saws too until I learned a trick. Put two on one arbor with the larger one backed all the way back and the smaller one barely holding in there with no drill. The smaller hole saw is the guide and the bigger one cuts. It’s almost easier than the normal drill/saw combo.

Agreed carbide hole cutters are nice. Traditionally I always used the punch for the picture perfect burr free holes but I can get a 3/4” hole so much faster with a step drill or carbide hole saw it’s difficult to justify knockouts except on larger holes (2”+). Only thing I wish I had is 22 and 30.5 mm knockouts with the slot or the almost as expensive special nibbler. $400 roughly for the tool or the punch though is insane. The alternative is to drill a hole in the slot then drill out the whole 30 mm hole.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Phillipd said:


> Your completely right ,I’m not taking anything to work other than my hand tools. I’m just looking down the road a few years and picking up things here and there. In my mid-late 40’ having been self employed most of my working life or working with/for family I may quite possibly go back to that route at some point in the next 4-5 years health and God willing.
> I’m picking up all that I can each and every day, not too old or proud to do the grunt work. What most guys at work consider sh!t jobs don’t hold a candle to what I’ve been doing dairy farming. So long as I can get to an experienced and competent place in the trade that’s my goal at least for the time being. I’m fully aware that life on the other part of the paycheque brings with it an entire host of headaches so when/if the time comes I’m going to have to be very confident in my own skill set before leaving a good paying job that leaves the stress behind when I go home for the day. Just me rambling haha


Smart. I had a collection of miscellaneous stuff when I started out from garage sales, etc. that I paid next to nothing for.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

We have been getting everyone a set of the Milwaukee Force Logic kits up to 4”
The guys love them and they are very fast. It’s not cheap but, I don’t think a hydraulic KO will ever be as good as these.


https://milwaukeetool.com/-/media/Products/Power-Tools/Cordless/Knockout-Tools/2676-23_Kit.png?mw=520&mh=520&hash=14F30B436E31D429FAC41718631AB7F62C3CB03F


https://milwaukeetool.com/-/media/Products/Power-Tools/Cordless/Knockout-Tools/2676-23_Kit.png?mw=520&mh=520&hash=14F30B436E31D429FAC41718631AB7F62C3CB03F


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

joe-nwt said:


> Pay no attention to LawnGuy. Every respectable electrician has a set of tools. That set is not complete until you have at least one of everthing. That includes tools that aren't normally even used by electricians. And you don't even have to know what to do with them. The important thing is the having......


I've been an employee for 30 years. The majority of tools in the company van are mine. Pretty much a full set of mechanics tools, KO set up to 4", cordless tools, etc. 

A lot of these I had before I went to work for a contractor, and yes, they would have bought them if needed. But........

1) If I have my own tools, it makes me more valuable.

2) I tend to use my own tools a bit harder than I would if the company owned them.

3) I've worked with them for years, I chose them because I felt they were best for me, no one else chose them for me. 

4) They stay with me, no shared tools because the company is too cheap to buy enough $$$ tools to stock every van and job.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

micromind said:


> I've been an employee for 30 years. The majority of tools in the company van are mine. Pretty much a full set of mechanics tools, KO set up to 4", cordless tools, etc.
> 
> A lot of these I had before I went to work for a contractor, and yes, they would have bought them if needed. But........
> 
> ...


I would have to assume that any tools one of our guys end up with I'll never see again. lol
Its nice you have all of that but, If it goes missing on a job site, who would replace it?
If you are doing very unique one or two man work, like we know you do, you could get yourself setup like that. If you are on a big job, I would have you keep all of that in your truck. 
For me, what you know has value, not what I can buy off of a shelf.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

paulengr said:


> Only thing I wish I had is 22 and 30.5 mm knockouts with the slot or the almost as expensive special nibbler. $400 roughly for the tool or the punch though is insane. The alternative is to drill a hole in the slot then drill out the whole 30 mm hole.


I had the 30mm with the 4 tabs for mounting switches. Cut the bolt head of the draw bar and tig welded it to a old greenlee hydraulic draw bar. Must have done over 100 punches with that before a trainee deiced that he could not only punch the stainless door but also the reinforcing strip on the inside. Unfortunately the weld did not fail so the die shattered.


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

micromind said:


> I've been an employee for 30 years. The majority of tools in the company van are mine. Pretty much a full set of mechanics tools, KO set up to 4", cordless tools, etc.
> 
> A lot of these I had before I went to work for a contractor, and yes, they would have bought them if needed. But........
> 
> 1) If I have my own tools, it makes me more valuable.


You're more valuable kicking 10% of your paycheck back to the company too. They have to buy everything if needed. If they need a 14 x 14 x 12" box and you happen to have that in your garage, are you going to start supplying material too so you can be "more valuable?"


> 2) I tend to use my own tools a bit harder than I would if the company owned them.


Makes no sense, unless a company tool breaks while used and that person is considered at fault. I once sent a portaband back because the blade wouldn't stay on it - it's bearings were probably shot or the motor shaft and the opposite pulley weren't in alignment. (It was probably dropped.) It came back to the job with a new blade on it and it just spun off again. Replaced blade, took it up in a bucket to the top of a pole and I chucked the POS off the bucket 30' to the concrete below. Then sent the whole bag of mangled parts and pieces back for repair. Brand new working tool was sent back. The "what happened" was answered: "I took it up to cut the piece off the pole and the bladespun off again and caused it to lurch forward into the work and ripped it out of my hands." 

Some shops/ owners/ project managers/ keepers of the tools think that tools don't go bad after extended use, that threading dies don't dull, that every pilot bit can be used a few more times, and 1/3 of the missing teeth on a hacksaw blade are irrelevant. These are the cheap ass penny pitchers that resist every nickel of spending they can, and erroneously believe that a dull tool or a tool that isn't operating properly can be worked-around. They think not spending $300.00 bucks on a new portaband = I just made a decision that netted me $300.00, and now I am richer. 

This attitude is most prevalent in white collar office workers who would go ballistic if one key on their keyboard was missing - but think a defective threader or portaband is just workers being babies. Or by bosses who have forgotten or never learned or knew the appreciation for solid dependable tools or how time spent dealing with defective tools affects the job and the worker and productivity and morale.


> 3) I've worked with them for years, I chose them because I felt they were best for me, no one else chose them for me.


You're just rationalizing the folly. You're a toolosexual and define yourself with inanimate objects.


> 4) They stay with me, no shared tools because the company is too cheap to buy enough $$$ tools to stock every van and job.


The company should suffer the consequences of that, and you're more valuable because they're not suffering, they're profiting from your investment into their company. Pat yourself on the back for allowing yourself to be used.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Never have had the 30mm with notches. Always used the Greenlee 720









Keyway Nibbler Punch | Greenlee


Find product features and specification information for the Greenlee Keyway Nibbler Punch. Save time with this special application punching tool today. Shop now!




www.greenlee.com


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

Southeast Power said:


> I would have to assume that any tools one of our guys end up with I'll never see again. lol
> Its nice you have all of that but, If it goes missing on a job site, who would replace it?
> If you are doing very unique one or two man work, like we know you do, you could get yourself setup like that. If you are on a big job, I would have you keep all of that in your truck.
> For me, what you know has value, not what I can buy off of a shelf.


I work alone most of the time, if a tool gets worn out, broken or lost, the company will gladly replace it with whatever I choose. 

It's pretty rare that I work on big jobs but when I do, yes, my tools stay in the van.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

When I first got into the trade, it wasn’t easy to buy tools and drill bits or anything like that.
All of the supply houses were “trade only”sales. 
I worked for a non-union shop.
it was possible to buy something from a hardware store but, everything was just too expensive.
Jokingly/ seriously we were told one hacksaw blade per month, one 1/4” drill bit per year.
It was a commercial shop, all EMT and the anchors were 1/4” nail-ins.
All of the EMT was cut with a hacksaw, all holes were drilled with a 3/8” Milwaukee drill.
Imagine the culture shock when I got into the JATC and was sent to a union shop.
I was paid 150% more, they had tools and drill bits and a bandsaw to cut EMT. 
it felt like the Wizard of Oz movie when it went from black and white to color.


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## cmdr_suds (Jul 29, 2016)

Phillipd said:


> We don’t have harbour freight unfortunately no. Princess Auto might be the closest substitute


How auto Canadian Tire? They seem to have everything.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

cmdr_suds said:


> How auto Canadian Tire? They seem to have everything.


I've seen hole saws, don't think they carry KO cutters.


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

Southeast Power said:


> We have been getting everyone a set of the Milwaukee Force Logic kits up to 4”
> The guys love them and they are very fast. It’s not cheap but, I don’t think a hydraulic KO will ever be as good as these.
> 
> 
> ...


I have the same set. I can't image working without it now. It saves so much time on panel installs or long troughs. For small holes I will use my greenlee carbide cutter. But the Milwaukee set makes it so easy to get the holes EXACTLY where I want them with the red lines.


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## Big pipe guy (Oct 19, 2017)

wcord said:


> The Princess Auto kit is pretty good.
> I have 2 greenlee and 1 PA . Virtually impossible to differentiate performance. ( haven't used the PA with dies larger than 2")
> While hole saws are fast, I don't like the mess they make. Shavings everywhere are harder to clean up, specially in panels.
> Unless you are working commercial, you won't make many KOs, so a hand set would be adequate.
> As an aside, no contractor should expect an apprentice to buy a hydraulic set. So unless you a tool whore , save your money


Agreed - but you still have to drill a hole to use the punch, there are still shavings. Punched holes are still a cleaner hole though. No wobble from a bent pilot bit.


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## Steve Loew. (Feb 8, 2021)

Phillipd said:


> There’s plenty of choices out there in all different price ranges. My one guy shop electrician buddy has a really nice hydraulic Greenlee he paid a lot for and my journey man whose a part company owner always uses the hole saw when needed. I wouldn’t mind getting a knock out set of my own if any of the cheaper ones are worth trying. Just wondering if anyone has high praises for any of them or is it a matter of you get what you pay for?


I have tried the others... They do not last long, I am retired and have a few tools left. I have the Greenlee 1/2 to 2 Inch KO set ,in good shape , plus a 3 inch that goes with ,not part of the set, but just happen to have .. will sell pretty cheap. $95 and you pay shipping... They run new around $ 385 or so. I am in Utah. [email protected] , if interested.. Thanks.


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## sparky1426 (Jun 19, 2013)

I love that Milwaukee set, it's so easy to line up and get into reasonably right spaces. I also agree with your points about non hand tools and wear items being the contractor's responsibility. We've been slowly stealing quality guys from the non union shops due to pay, benefits, and not requiring them to buy all the power tools.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Big pipe guy said:


> Agreed - but you still have to drill a hole to use the punch, there are still shavings. Punched holes are still a cleaner hole though. No wobble from a bent pilot bit.


We have a couple of Greenlee C punches that will punch a nice hole without drilling the enclosures. 
The guys seem to not like it, the punch tends to be a little hard to pull out of the punched hole. 
Maybe some spray would help with that. 
FWIW, its a bit frightening when used on a NEMA 12 steel enclosure, it sounds like a gunshot on the final stroke of the pump. 


https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRW3oBFlPbWrGoZL9PJm2BAKrszSlYJ9fvrVxCqG8HFFeRIItyIkCTq9LxInksPuRP4PoeuYuXq&usqp=CAc


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