# vinyl siding / meter box problem



## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

Whoever put this together in 1985, they left one conductor about 1/2" to 1" short -- the one that lands on the top-right jaw, now skewed. POCO recommends it be repaired. Pulling another inch through the 50+ ft of pipe would be tough to impossible, so it looks like the easiest way is to just lower the meter box by 1" ( disconnect/reconnect, and re-inspection, sorry). My only real concern: the stupid vinyl siding. The meter box went on first, and the siding apparently goes around it. 

I can cut away the lower piece enough, and lower the box, and caulk the hell out of the sides and the bottom; it's the top I'm wondering about, and how to fill in the 1" gap without looking too hack. Open to suggestions. THX.


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## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

mikewillnot said:


> Whoever put this together in 1985, they left one conductor about 1/2" to 1" short -- the one that lands on the top-right jaw, now skewed. POCO recommends it be repaired. Pulling another inch through the 50+ ft of pipe would be tough to impossible, so it looks like the easiest way is to just lower the meter box by 1" ( disconnect/reconnect, and re-inspection, sorry). My only real concern: the stupid vinyl siding. The meter box went on first, and the siding apparently goes around it.
> 
> I can cut away the lower piece enough, and lower the box, and caulk the hell out of the sides and the bottom; it's the top I'm wondering about, and how to fill in the 1" gap without looking too hack. Open to suggestions. THX.


Get some vinyl stock 1x12" cut it to fit behind the meter pan, it will look sharp.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

Arlington makes a vinyl block just for the purpose of mounting meters. Has built in J channel and all. 2 or 3 sizes for single OH meter or UG meter etc. very nice product. I even carry one on the truck for the calls where the meter has pulled off the house from settlement or the meter base has rotted away.


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## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

drewsserviceco said:


> Arlington makes a vinyl block just for the purpose of mounting meters. Has built in J channel and all. 2 or 3 sizes for single OH meter or UG meter etc. very nice product. I even carry one on the truck for the calls where the meter has pulled off the house from settlement or the meter base has rotted away.


Yup that's what I was looking for..

*Meter Mounting Bases *












One-piece construction. Paintable. Gangable. UV rated plastic for long outdoor life.

For additional information, including specifications, dimensions, and applications - please click on a part number listed below.


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

great suggestions. 
I may be missing something, but the Arlington website doesn't show dimensions of the meter blocks. WTF????

NEvermind. Had to click through to the product spec sheet. Dumb.


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

Cool. I've never seen the product, though, and don't know where they'd be stocked around here. [nevermind; found them on amazon]

So in a retrofit situation I can cut the siding away to the exact dimensions of the block (minus the tabs), and screw the block to the wall, and the meter box to the block???


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

Black Dog said:


> Get some vinyl stock 1x12" cut it to fit behind the meter pan, it will look sharp.


Where? do DIY"S stock solid vinyl?


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

All you need to do is something like above, or just extend the conductor with an insulated splice.


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

You should be able to pull one inch out of a fifty foot run. It looks like half an inch would even be enough


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

While you are at it a pipe and LB on that hack SE Cable. Make her look pro!


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

If you REALLY don't think you can pull another 1" of wire, I'd use an inline Polaris connector to pigtail another length of wire on the end. No way would I move a meter down for a short wire!!:no:


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Whynot just lower the meterpan a few inches. Normally if it were me i would sell a service upgrade. I would dig the lateral down and back a few feet and bend a 45 just below grade on the riser to gain an extra 12" of cable (conductors ).


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

Because of the disconnect/reconnect, an inspection will be required. utility company now requires meter sockets with bypass horns. I'm not sure the old meter socket would pass a new inspection. I'm thinking of just replacing it, with one that might actually fit the conductor length better anyway, without necessarily lowering it at all. A new Milbank has the guts centered in the box, i.e. lower.


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## pjholguin (May 16, 2014)

Roger123 said:


> All you need to do is something like above, or just extend the conductor with an insulated splice.


I concur... Just extend the conductor and be done with it.


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## pjholguin (May 16, 2014)

mikewillnot said:


> Because of the disconnect/reconnect, an inspection will be required. utility company now requires meter sockets with bypass horns. I'm not sure the old meter socket would pass a new inspection. I'm thinking of just replacing it, with one that might actually fit the conductor length better anyway, without necessarily lowering it at all. A new Milbank has the guts centered in the box, i.e. lower.


Why was it disconnected? If you can pull in a 1/2" conductor...if there was no apparent change to the service why would they make you change it? I understand the POCO mandate to up grade but is there any exceptions to to this request?


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

pjholguin said:


> Why was it disconnected? If you can pull in a 1/2" conductor...if there was no apparent change to the service why would they make you change it? I understand the POCO mandate to up grade but is there any exceptions to to this request?


Wasn't disconnected. It will need to be, in order to do the work. 
I'm actually not sure if they'd require it to be brought up to current requirements or not, in this case, but in somewhat similar situations, recently, they have. 

This job is a ways out in the country, and so far I'm only going from pictures. I'd like to pull this off in one trip if possible. I can't tell, but I have a hunch that the mounting block under the jaws might be cracked or broken in some way. I'm also not a big fan of splicing service cables, or of digging holes only to discover that cables were installed badly and are too short. 

The customer is OK with replacing the box, and it might be overkill, but given the potential ways this could go sideways, it looks easier to me.


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## pjholguin (May 16, 2014)

Hey if the customer is okay with it...go for it!


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## fmwowol (Aug 11, 2019)

hello


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

fmwowol said:


> hello


Just curious, did you search the forum for "vinyl siding" and replied to every one? I'm guessing that 4 years later this issue has been resolved.. 
Why not start your own siding thread?


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

fmwowol said:


> Hey guys, a few years ago I did vinyl siding, because it was cheaper and the quality was awesome and it is still awesome so if you are looking for a siding I recommend a vinyl one. But now I am looking for best cleaner for vinyl siding, do you know any? I would like to clean the house from the outside a bit and I hope you will help me find the right detergent.


Vinyl siding ... well you've come the right place :wink:

Rag works !
Pressure washer is the DIY choice.

Oh, and are you really making $5000 month doing this Chit ??? :vs_laugh:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

fmwowol said:


> hello



*Hello!!*

Welcome aboard @fmwowol!

Please fill out your 'about me' section of your profile so we have an idea of who you are and your connection to electrical work.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

fmwowol said:


> Hey guys, a few years ago I did vinyl siding, because it was cheaper and the quality was awesome and it is still awesome so if you are looking for a siding I recommend a vinyl one. But now I am looking for best cleaner for vinyl siding, do you know any? I would like to clean the house from the outside a bit and I hope you will help me find the right detergent.


This is a professional electrical forum not a DIY site.


Try our sister site for questions like this.

www.diychatroom.com


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