# Residential Remodel.......fish or drywall?



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

You left out the critical info:

How are you going to get into the cavity ?

This sure looks like it's an external wall. Good luck with that.

Sheet rock is pretty cheap.

It also would appear that you're going to cover up the lower zone with built-in cabinetry.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

They are going to need a taper in there. So just cut out the drywall that you need, making sure you span from stud to stud or joist to joist. Then screw it back up when you are done. They will tape the seems when they do the rest of the taping.


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## craigdj87 (Oct 11, 2016)

Cut a channel in the sheetrock behind where the cabinet will go. Then fish up to each box. Use allied smart boxes with the screws in them. For the lights, leave the switch leg in the wall and cut boxes in on the finish after the mirrors are up.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

I would rip the lower half of drywall off and run new cables and boxes what you need to mount it up.

Is there going be a window install ? if so let the General contractor blast the whole drywall off they can install new one pretty fast.

I am not too suprised they will hit part of ceiling due they have to move the vent pipe anyway. so expect that.

It the same way with plumming too so they will have to route new water line and drain pipes.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I just took a quick look but the first thing I notice is they'll have someone doing some drywall work even without your holes - they'll remove what's left of the wall and patch all that. Now you can make holes somewhat freely as long as you're not ridiculous about it. A big hole is hardly any more work to patch than a little hole. 

It looks like you'll have to cut the drywall at the top of the wall where your homerun comes down the wall. In a job like this there's going to be enough finish work that a big hole is hardly any more work for the drywallers than a small hole, go stud to stud and as far down and you need to drill up through the top plates. 

Going horizontally, they don't even have to finish (tape spackle and sand) what you remove behind the cabinets. If you're really good and the drawing is accurate you could make a slit at the level of the drawers and your entire horizontal channel will be behind the cabinetry. You could also make it behind the cove molding at the base of the wall. Or you could make it anywhere between drawer level and cove molding level and make just a little finish work for the drywaller between under the drawers on the right.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

+1 for opening up the drywall where you need access for running your wiring.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Coach529 said:


> New resi guy doing home remodel. Been bending rigid and EMT all these years and never got into the residential side until now.
> 
> Doing a residential remodel that includes a complete bathroom rework. Has been gutted except for exterior walls and ceiling.
> 
> ...


Bring in a sawsall, about 3 sticks of 1/2" EMT, a roll of black and a roll of white #12, 8 green pigtails, 24 tan wire nuts, 8 boxes, 3 ceiling rings, 5 single gang mud rings, 10 connectors, 4 couplings, six straps and show them what it's supposed to look like.
No kick plates to worry about behind those cabinets.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I would let the plumbers in there first. Then take out as little drywall as you can. That is a pretty straight forward job.


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## Spark-NH (Nov 3, 2017)

Good opportunity to get used to cutting in old works and getting up in the attic, locating and drilling through headers and dropping a snake to your apprentice-extroidinaire if your a new dream is to be a resi-rat haha.
Took me a year or two to really find my way around the houses up here coming from industrial / heavy commercial side of the trade so I know your feeling.

But like the guys are saying, plumbers going to open the walls up a little too probably.


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## JohnJ65 (May 8, 2008)

In my humble opinion I would cut a slot about 10" wide from wall to wall where the countertop receptacles are and install adjustable new work boxes to accommodate for the tile they are not telling you about. 

Then drop a piece of cable down to the stud space where the outlet within the cabinets will be so you can cut in an old work box through the cabinet back after cabinet installation for a nice clean finish. 

The light switch locations are unknown to me but they can be run horizontally with the outlet circuits and then fished up to their appropriate stud spaces for a sconce box to be hole sawed in later. If they are on a stud then just install a pancake instead. 

Maybe cutting a slot along the wall to the right will get you away from the roof pitch and give you the ability to get up to the attic a little easier. 

This advice is worth what you paid for it, lol


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## shocksystems (Apr 25, 2009)

Guaranteed this will be one of those times where you are careful, take more time to minimize holes and then the GC rips it all down for the plumbers or someone else after.


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## Chris1971 (Dec 27, 2010)

Coach529 said:


> New resi guy doing home remodel. Been bending rigid and EMT all these years and never got into the residential side until now.
> 
> Doing a residential remodel that includes a complete bathroom rework. Has been gutted except for exterior walls and ceiling.
> 
> ...


Channel or cut access holes where you need to install the wiring. Save the pieces you cut out if possible.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Chris1971 said:


> Channel or cut access holes where you need to install the wiring. Save the pieces you cut out if possible.


Great advice. :thumbsup:


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## Chris1971 (Dec 27, 2010)

Coach529 said:


> New resi guy doing home remodel. Been bending rigid and EMT all these years and never got into the residential side until now.
> 
> Doing a residential remodel that includes a complete bathroom rework. Has been gutted except for exterior walls and ceiling.
> 
> ...


Another thought is to cut the access holes below where the new cabinets will be installed. Not sure if that would help with where the wires will be routed?


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## Coach529 (Sep 20, 2016)

I definitely appreciate the advice and wisdom. Learning as I go.

I had no real desire to dive into the res world.....but it is paying the bills and it is a new challenge.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

Do you guys in the states need to de-energize receptacles in cabinets and drawers when they are closed?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

NDC said:


> Do you guys in the states need to de-energize receptacles in cabinets and drawers when they are closed?


Never heard of that before.

While I have never put one in a drawer I've seen and installed them in cabinets for various reasons without any disconnecting means tied to door position with out being tagged.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Never heard of that before.
> 
> While I have never put one in a drawer I've seen and installed them in cabinets for various reasons without any disconnecting means tied to door position with out being tagged.


Yes we have this rule:

26-710 
(h) a receptacle shall not be placed in a cupboard, cabinet, or similar enclosure, except where the receptacle is
(i) an integral part of a factory-built enclosure;
(ii) provided for use with a specific type of appliance that is suitable for installation within the enclosure;
(iii) intended only for a microwave oven;
(iv) intended only for a cord-connected range hood; or
(v) intended only for a cord-connected combination microwave oven/range hood fan;
(i) except for cord-connected dishwashers, in-line water heaters, garbage disposal units, and other similar
appliances, receptacles installed in cupboards, cabinets, or similar enclosures in accordance with
Item (h)(ii) *shall be de-energized unless the enclosure door is in the fully opened position;

*Now a drawer is not a door so this may be an exception but who knows? I have yet to install a receptacle in a bathroom vanity drawer or cabinet.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

NDC said:


> Yes we have this rule:
> 
> 26-710
> (h) a receptacle shall not be placed in a cupboard, cabinet, or similar enclosure, except where the receptacle is
> ...



While all those listed sound inherently residential my thoughts when reading the question went right to offices with walkie-talkie charger banks in large cabinets/small closets, TVs/monitors/printers and other such office electronics
that are in elaborate cabinetry.


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## NormousD (Nov 12, 2017)

Yeah that code reference (26-710) is specifically regarding receptacles in residential occupancies.


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## Simpson Electric (May 22, 2012)

shocksystems said:


> Guaranteed this will be one of those times where you are careful, take more time to minimize holes and then the GC rips it all down for the plumbers or someone else after.


Agreed. Everybody saves sheetrock like it is some precious commodity. Rip it out, save money. IMO a bathroom remodel should be gutted right away.

Good luck!


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## Coach529 (Sep 20, 2016)




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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Much more ought to have been removed.

The partials are much tougher to patch than full sheets.

The cost of sheet rock is peanuts.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

Coach529 said:


>


Pretty risky putting those valance light boxes in so soon. What will you do if the sink centers are 1 or 2 inches off?
I leave a nice loop in the wall and cut my box in after the sinks are in to get my center. Unless I am installing a light bar.


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## Simpson Electric (May 22, 2012)

Coach529 said:


>



Looks good! 

My only tips based on past headaches:

Make sure your sconces are less than the weight rating on your cut in boxes and that the flanges on those cut in boxes will be covered by the sconces. I have had sconces that are 15 lbs. (cut in boxes usually rated for 5-10 lbs.) and also some that have a smaller base than the box flange where you see a blue piece of plastic poking out. You may not know what fixtures are going up there in which case I would just change those out to bar hangers like the center light. Much easier than waiting until trim out!


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## Coach529 (Sep 20, 2016)

telsa said:


> Much more ought to have been removed.
> 
> The partials are much tougher to patch than full sheets.
> 
> The cost of sheet rock is peanuts.


After I got done, the general stripped the whole wall.


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## Coach529 (Sep 20, 2016)

NDC said:


> Pretty risky putting those valance light boxes in so soon. What will you do if the sink centers are 1 or 2 inches off?
> I leave a nice loop in the wall and cut my box in after the sinks are in to get my center. Unless I am installing a light bar.


That is a good point....and something I did not think about ahead of time. Thanks!!


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## Coach529 (Sep 20, 2016)

Simpson Electric said:


> Looks good!
> 
> My only tips based on past headaches:
> 
> Make sure your sconces are less than the weight rating on your cut in boxes and that the flanges on those cut in boxes will be covered by the sconces. I have had sconces that are 15 lbs. (cut in boxes usually rated for 5-10 lbs.) and also some that have a smaller base than the box flange where you see a blue piece of plastic poking out. You may not know what fixtures are going up there in which case I would just change those out to bar hangers like the center light. Much easier than waiting until trim out!


I appreciate the input.....thanks!!


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## Simpson Electric (May 22, 2012)

Coach529 said:


> Simpson Electric said:
> 
> 
> > Looks good!
> ...


Well you don't need to worry now that the wall is down lol! For future then!


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## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

Heh heh heh. Rewired a 3400 sqaure foot house one time. "Nah, no need for us to take it down, just cut what you need, we'll patch it"

Hours of fishing later, up go the full sheets....


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## Simpson Electric (May 22, 2012)

matt1124 said:


> Heh heh heh. Rewired a 3400 sqaure foot house one time. "Nah, no need for us to take it down, just cut what you need, we'll patch it"
> 
> Hours of fishing later, up go the full sheets....


Sounds EXACTLY like one I did about 7 years ago. Lol. Penny wise dollar foolish.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Do you have vapour barrier to deal with in that wall?


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