# how to stop water flowing



## ilikepez (Mar 24, 2011)

Not much you can do. Maybe add a sump and a sump pump? I don't know if thats possible in your situation. Is it just leaking through the walls or is it coming through the cover? I agree with you about the expansion foam, most of the stuff I've used doesn't last too long if there is a continuous running water.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

There are products made for this, I would forget the foam.


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

Check out Polywater.

http://www.polywater.com/ductseal.html

Watch their video.


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## electricalwiz (Mar 12, 2011)

tkb said:


> Check out Polywater.
> 
> http://www.polywater.com/ductseal.html
> 
> Watch their video.


 
i have actually seen this sitting in the supply house buyt never paid attention to it.
Have you ever used it before


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

electricalwiz said:


> i have actually seen this sitting in the supply house buyt never paid attention to it.
> Have you ever used it before


I have never used it before.
I think it may be worth a try.

My work never leaks. :whistling2:


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

On one job I did the engineer didn't want drainage on some of the vaults and due to changes they ended up down hill from some upstream vaults. The downstream vault is fed from a larger vault that has a lot of load breaks and MV stuff in it. Essentially water will drain from the upper two vaults into the larger primary vault. Give it a few years and I wonder how big the bang will be? 

Can't imagine thinking that anything you put in the ground will be waterproof. The covers certainly are not. 

If the water table is low enough it might be worth it to investigate building a drain field around that vault and punching in some drainage in it.


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## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

They make a linkseal product for the outside of conduit through concrete, and there is one as well for wires in the conduit. The systems bolt together with rubber and hard plastic.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I just pack the conduit with paper or rags and shoot some hili foam or great stuff in.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> I just pack the conduit with paper or rags and shoot some hili foam or great stuff in.


In my experience that is just a short term fix and it gives up with a bunch of water built up behind it.

I may have even gotten soaked by the water coming out of about 200' of 4".


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

BBQ said:


> In my experience that is just a short term fix and it gives up with a bunch of water built up behind it.


Not if you go do the same to the other end. U guard, for example, comes off pretty easily :whistling2:


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## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> Not if you go do the same to the other end. U guard, for example, comes off pretty easily :whistling2:


That's not altogether true. I know of a case where the migrant landscapers were using a powered auger to plant trees, broke into our 4" run down a looong hill, and when the water tight cabinet was opened due to no power, the service tech got maybe hit by 200 ft of water too. :whistling2:

All the breakers had to be sent out and tested.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

OZ Gendy compression fittings. We had several sites over the years and they tried everything, we installed these and NO WATER.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

JohnR said:


> That's not altogether true. I know of a case where the migrant landscapers were using a powered auger to plant trees, broke into our 4" run down a looong hill...


Yay it's time to play the "what if" game :laughing:


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## Charlie K (Aug 14, 2008)

Check out TDUX from Tyco. We use this product in waste water plants. Works great.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I have always used the triple expanding spray foam when I first did the installs and never had any water leaks.. :thumbsup:

Using the spray foam after the conductors get wet is a waste of time since the foam won't stick to anything wet like the conductors or inside wall of the conduit..


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

B4T said:


> Using the spray foam after the conductors get wet is a waste of time since the foam won't stick to anything wet like the conductors or inside wall of the conduit..


That's why you jam some shop rags or whatever down there first.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> Not if you go do the same to the other end. U guard, for example, comes off pretty easily :whistling2:


That assumes a lot.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> That's why you jam some shop rags or whatever down there first.



How about some porno mags and beer cans for that true professional look?


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## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

brian john said:


> OZ Gendy compression fittings. We had several sites over the years and they tried everything, we installed these and NO WATER.


Thanks Brian, that is just what I was talking about I found them Here, I couldn't remember who made them.


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## ilikepez (Mar 24, 2011)

I like this thread. This is why I come to the forums. Get to learn something new everyday.


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## woodchuck2 (Sep 18, 2009)

I think i would look into some better drainage to eliminate the water intrusion myself.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

BBQ said:


> How about some porno mags and beer cans for that true professional look?


1. Who gets magazines anymore?

2. Then I couldn't recycle the cans 

3. I'd need to find a new way to dispose of old rags :laughing:


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

Howzabout raising the conduit stubups above the water level!


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Stuff a towel in the toilet.


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## electricalwiz (Mar 12, 2011)

bobelectric said:


> Howzabout raising the conduit stubups above the water level!


the conduits enter the side


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

Now we are reduced to needing pictures to analyze this problem.


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