# What's wrong with my network? (LAN)



## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

I installed a Cat6 computer networking system that I am having problems with. I ran a cable from the router to a punch down block where I branched out to (3) new locations. I can only get one of the locations to work. When I punch down for the two other locations the one location that is working stops working. What are some of the possible causes for system failure?


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

this site is for pro's only


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Lol lol lol


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Seriously?


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> I installed a Cat6 computer networking system that I am having problems with. I ran a cable from the router to a punch down block where I branched out to (3) new locations. I can only get one of the locations to work. When I punch down for the two other locations the one location that is working stops working. What are some of the possible causes for system failure?


You have data collision. You cannot wire an Ethernet network like a telephone network. :no:


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

View attachment 2563


Do you want to end up like this?:jester:


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

John said:


> View attachment 2563
> 
> 
> Do you want to end up like this?:jester:


We have meltdown!


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## kbsparky (Sep 20, 2007)

A phone network block has all the ports wired together. You need to replace it with a "patch panel" which has each port isolated. 

From the patch panel, you can install short CAT-5 jumpers to your router or switch.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

kbsparky said:


> A phone network block has all the ports wired together. You need to replace it with a "patch panel" which has each port isolated.
> 
> From the patch panel, you can install short CAT-5 jumpers to your router or switch.


 ..or a hub, right?
I did IT years ago but I lost all that networking jazz.


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

kbsparky said:


> A phone network block has all the ports wired together. You need to replace it with a "patch panel" which has each port isolated.
> 
> From the patch panel, you can install short CAT-5 jumpers to your router or switch.


:thumbsup:


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

BuzzKill said:


> ..or a hub, right?
> I did IT years ago but I lost all that networking jazz.


A hub would work as well, as long as they aren't wired like phone plugs... they cant just piggyback off of the same line


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

JoeKP said:


> A hub would work as well, as long as they aren't wired like phone plugs... they cant just piggyback off of the same line


 ...like a fire system does: no T-taps!


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

John said:


> View attachment 2563
> 
> 
> Do you want to end up like this?:jester:


:laughing::laughing::thumbup:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Ron.. those tiny wires are a PIA to get into the right order.. look there for the problem


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

Black4Truck said:


> Ron.. those tiny wires are a PIA to get into the right order.. look there for the problem


labels...


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

oh sh*t yeah, I've pulled enough cable doing IT/low voltage stuff to have that burned into your brain.


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## JayH (Nov 13, 2009)

http://www.americantechsupply.com/images/cat%205%20e%2012%20port%20patch%20panel.jpg


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

if that's not ****,I'mnot clicking.


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## JayH (Nov 13, 2009)

BuzzKill said:


> if that's not ****,I'mnot clicking.


Time for you to move to the Craigslist Personals.


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## Shado (Jan 1, 2009)

BuzzKill said:


> if that's not ****,I'mnot clicking.


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

I have three new locations. So I need three "homeruns" from the router. Correct?

What if the router out ports are full? Is this where the patch panel would need to be?

Thanks for the help guys.


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## egads (Sep 1, 2009)

Either the patch panel linked or a ethernet switch. A switch is like a router, only it has no firewall built in. A single cable from the existing router to the switch. New cables from the switch to the new locations. Switches are dirt cheap. They are safe to use "behind" or downstream from a router. In fact, you can run a single cat 5 (6) to a remote location from a router and then install a switch to run several cat 5s to from there. A switch does have a power supply, so you cannot stick it above the ceiling tiles.


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> I have three new locations. So I need three "homeruns" from the router. Correct?
> 
> What if the router out ports are full? Is this where the patch panel would need to be?
> 
> Thanks for the help guys.


yes, you need 3 homeruns

if the ports are full, you can a switch, which as egads said are cheap and safe to use behind a routers firewall


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## oldman (Mar 30, 2007)

in other words...it's the indian, not the arrow....


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Thanks for the help. That's what I'm gonna do, get a switch.


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## RWallace (Dec 18, 2008)

If you are installing Cat6 wiring, get a gigabit switch. Little more expensive, but you won't have t ogo back and install one. CAT6=1 Gbps (gigabits per second). Cat5 = 100 Mbps. Cat5 cable can do 1 Gbps plus, I tested it with a tester, but real world results I ended up with about 250 Mbps. Still worth it.


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## hack6500 (Dec 14, 2009)

*use 5e!! but here is a cat-6 trick...*



RWallace said:


> CAT6=1 Gbps (gigabits per second). Cat5 = 100 Mbps. Cat5 cable can do 1 Gbps plus...


not completely accurate facts. with the right equipment and good ends i can make >300' of cat-5 maintain a healthy gigabit connection. with cheap equipment and shoddy ends... YMMV.

honestly, unless spec'd, you should _all_ be using Cat-5e, the e being an 'Enhanced' version. using 5e at any length under 300ft will give similar results as 6, unless there is serious high voltage interference.

*the problems i see every day with cat-6 is a serious lack of skill in terminating the wire ends. *

the problem with 6 is the internal plastic separator, when you cut back the outer velum you need to remove this separator back to where the velum was cut, but it now needs to be retracted into the velum to properly attach the end. grab about 3ft behind the cut and pull/massage the velum to retract the separator only about 1/2 to 3/4" inside, then affix the end. the velum must be retained inside the connector end and the separator must be 1/4" from the connector _inside_ the velum.

*cat-6 is awesome... but for the price, cat-5e will work for any 'normal' length needed, and there is a BIG difference between 5 and 5e.* 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_5_cable


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## curlycord (May 5, 2009)

This original thread and some of the replies from sparkies whom think they know what they are doing when it comes to data seems pretty funny, I cant tell if you guys are joking or serious.
3 feet?????????


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## RWallace (Dec 18, 2008)

hack6500 said:


> not completely accurate facts. with the right equipment and good ends i can make >300' of cat-5 maintain a healthy gigabit connection. with cheap equipment and shoddy ends... YMMV.
> 
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_5_cable


 :thumbsup:

Excellent link hack6500. I used Cat5 as as cat5e, since I don't even think you can get just plain 5 anymore.


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

hack6500 said:


> *cat-6 is awesome... but for the price, cat-5e will work for any 'normal' length needed, and there is a BIG difference between 5 and 5e.*


Care to explain that "big" difference?


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## hack6500 (Dec 14, 2009)

the "Enhanced" potion of the Cat-5e standard specifies items such as how many twists per meter for each conductor pair, as well as how many twists per meter all four conductor pairs are twisted within the velum. there are also requirements on the individual conductors such that they cannot have their insulation fused to another conductor. 

here is another good page with a very detailed overview, the diagrams 3/4 down his page are EXCELLENT, i would suggest printing the two images of T568A & T568B onto 4x6 photo paper, and throw this in your tool bag with your crimpper!
*
http://www.swhowto.com/CAT5_Ch1.htm*

*with ethernet cable its really all about the twists, its just precisely wound conductors stretched between two radio's!*


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

hack6500 said:


> the "Enhanced" potion of the Cat-5e standard specifies items such as how many twists per meter for each conductor pair, as well as how many twists per meter all four conductor pairs are twisted within the velum. there are also requirements on the individual conductors such that they cannot have their insulation fused to another conductor.
> 
> here is another good page with a very detailed overview, the diagrams 3/4 down his page are EXCELLENT, i would suggest printing the two images of T568A & T568B onto 4x6 photo paper, and throw this in your tool bag with your crimpper!
> *
> ...


after a few times of using the code you can memorize it, i have the A configuration memorized, but I haven't used the B configuration enough yet to memorize it:thumbup:


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## egads (Sep 1, 2009)

I think of it as A for phones, B for data. But as long as you are consistent, it doesn't matter.


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## hack6500 (Dec 14, 2009)

JoeKP said:


> after a few times of using the code you can memorize it, i have the A configuration memorized, but I haven't used the B configuration enough yet to memorize it:thumbup:


i will always use B-B for straight thru and A-B for crossover, but in the last few years i think i have only needed to make a crossover cable once!


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

hack6500 said:


> i will always use B-B for straight thru and A-B for crossover, but in the last few years i think i have only needed to make a crossover cable once!


I have only made one crossover cable, and used it maybe twice, and for straight thru runs, i use A-A:laughing:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

I have to say thanks for the information being shared in this thread.


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## Cor5266 (Jan 27, 2010)

Well to answer the OPs question. - It's that you have no idea what you're doing!

And that goes for just abot every poster who responded!
You're electricians, PLEASE stick with what you know 'cause it is OBVIOUSLY not data cabling. 

You all get pissed when people do electrical work - other trades feel the same way!


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

Cor5266 said:


> Well to answer the OPs question. - It's that you have no idea what you're doing!
> 
> And that goes for just abot every poster who responded!
> You're electricians, PLEASE stick with what you know 'cause it is OBVIOUSLY not data cabling.
> ...


can you be a little more off?
take a look at what it says under my user-name, most of us in the trade do have to do some of this on a day to day basis, kind of why we have a section set aside for it. and as for some people that have responded have said that they are experienced in LV/Data, look at the last posts by me and hack6500 for example
and i dont feel like rambling on anymore.


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Cor5266 said:


> Well to answer the OPs question. - It's that you have no idea what you're doing!
> 
> And that goes for just abot every poster who responded!
> You're electricians, PLEASE stick with what you know 'cause it is OBVIOUSLY not data cabling.
> ...


Well on that note you're not allowed on the site since its for electrical professionals only :laughing:. Some people here do fiber optics, phone, data, alarms, cctv, etc and are certified in it taboot. But I guess they don't know anything about it.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

I love stabbing those data guys right in the back. 

Heck, they don't even need a license to do that work. 

Besides, you probably lack the necessary skills of running wires in a finished home and would have run them on the outside like those jackass Comcast CATV guys.


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## PJSkiboy (Jan 27, 2010)

hack6500 said:


> not completely accurate facts. with the right equipment and good ends i can make >300' of cat-5 maintain a healthy gigabit connection. with cheap equipment and shoddy ends... YMMV.


Personally, I was trained to not run anymore than 290 feet from the termination point to the network closet. Allow 10 feet for routing the cabling to the network cabinet properly.



hack6500 said:


> honestly, unless spec'd, you should _all_ be using Cat-5e, the e being an 'Enhanced' version. using 5e at any length under 300ft will give similar results as 6, unless there is serious high voltage interference.
> 
> *the problems i see every day with cat-6 is a serious lack of skill in terminating the wire ends. *


Pretty much agree 100%.



hack6500 said:


> the problem with 6 is the internal plastic separator, when you cut back the outer velum you need to remove this separator back to where the velum was cut, but it now needs to be retracted into the velum to properly attach the end. grab about 3ft behind the cut and pull/massage the velum to retract the separator only about 1/2 to 3/4" inside, then affix the end. the velum must be retained inside the connector end and the separator must be 1/4" from the connector _inside_ the velum.
> 
> *cat-6 is awesome... but for the price, cat-5e will work for any 'normal' length needed, and there is a BIG difference between 5 and 5e.*
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_5_cable


Yeah, I actually see places run Cat6 completely unnecessarily for what purposes they have. The cost is unnecessary and the Cat6 cabling itself has no benefit in its installation at all usually. The Cat5e will still serve "most" residential and small business needs.

Great post by the way Hack.


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

hack6500 said:


> the "Enhanced" potion of the Cat-5e standard specifies items such as how many twists per meter for each conductor pair, as well as how many twists per meter all four conductor pairs are twisted within the velum. there are also requirements on the individual conductors such that they cannot have their insulation fused to another conductor.
> 
> here is another good page with a very detailed overview, the diagrams 3/4 down his page are EXCELLENT, i would suggest printing the two images of T568A & T568B onto 4x6 photo paper, and throw this in your tool bag with your crimpper!
> *
> ...


Actually, the difference between Cat5 and Cat5e is simply in the way that it is tested and certified. When certifying Cat5e all 4 pairs are tested for near and far end crosstalk, delay skew, etc. The reason for this is that gigabit ethernet uses 4 pairs rather than 2. The cables must be manufactured to a higher quality but if the cable isn't crap and your install is fine most Cat5 will test to Cat5e.


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## hack6500 (Dec 14, 2009)

*what are you smoking?*



MisterCMK said:


> Actually, the difference between Cat5 and Cat5e is simply in the way that it is tested and certified. When certifying Cat5e all 4 pairs are tested for near and far end crosstalk, delay skew, etc.


:no: no no no :no:

i am sorry but there are definitely requirements on conductor twisting. i plan to make a separate thread to illustrate these common fallacy's, i started to take some great macro photo's last night actually.



MisterCMK said:


> The reason for this is that gigabit ethernet uses 4 pairs rather than 2. The cables must be manufactured to a higher quality but if the cable isn't crap and your install is fine most Cat5 will test to Cat5e.


*:no: no no no :no:*

this is a completely false statement, I would implore you to find ANY network equipment which utilizes all 8 conductors. *gigabit ethernet only uses 4 conductors, or 2 pair whichever you prefer to say. *

in addition, you cannot make something it isn't. if the cable does not clearly state on the velum that it is cat-5e it is not cat-5e. just because your testing equipment thinks its 5e is not enough, you must look on the velum. I plan to clearly illustrate this in my upcoming thread. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable

http://discountcablesusa.com/ethernet-cables100.html

fyi: this is a learning community, i contribute with the knowledge and experience i have and am willing to share. nay-sayers are just that, and can say what ever they want, that's the power of the internet! i feel people should be allowed to post anything they want so long as the post remains professional. can't we all get along?


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## PJSkiboy (Jan 27, 2010)

Isn't Cat5 rated up to 100mbps and Cat5e rated up to 1000mbps?


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## hack6500 (Dec 14, 2009)

PJSkiboy said:


> Isn't Cat5 rated up to 100mbps and Cat5e rated up to 1000mbps?


unfortunately its not that cut and dry. there are many factors which determine if a cable will actually maintain a connection 100mbps or 1000mbps.

with junk cat-5, good secure ends, and good networking equipment i can make a 300' gigabit connection, its not easy but can be done. if i switched out the cat-5 with cat-5e the same connection would easier to accomplish and i could be a bit more sloppy with the actual wire, and you would not be able to see any significant difference in the connection.

also remember.. these 100mbps and 1000mbps numbers are theoretical only. real world transmission performance over ANY of these cables is more like 40mbps and 250mbps (respectively) using full-duplex. but we are quickly getting way off track! 

*i will spoil my cat-5/5e/6/7 comparison thread right now, and just say only buy/install/quote cat-5e! its easier, more economical, future proof right now, and should be for the next decade!*


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

hack6500 said:


> :no: no no no :no:
> 
> i am sorry but there are definitely requirements on conductor twisting. i plan to make a separate thread to illustrate these common fallacy's, i started to take some great macro photo's last night actually.


Perhaps you would like to cite a source regarding what you claim to be the specification on twists per inch of Cat5 vs Cat5e?



hack6500 said:


> *:no: no no no :no:*
> 
> this is a completely false statement, I would implore you to find ANY network equipment which utilizes all 8 conductors. *gigabit ethernet only uses 4 conductors, or 2 pair whichever you prefer to say. *


Read up on 1000BASE-T. You need all 4 pairs.



hack6500 said:


> in addition, you cannot make something it isn't. if the cable does not clearly state on the velum that it is cat-5e it is not cat-5e. just because your testing equipment thinks its 5e is not enough, you must look on the velum. I plan to clearly illustrate this in my upcoming thread.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable
> 
> ...


I never said that a cable that is marked Cat5 is Cat5e. I said that it certainly can test to Cat5e standards. You may want to read up on the ANSI/TIA 568-B standards.


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## egads (Sep 1, 2009)

I would like to ask, what sort of network would CAT 6 be useful?


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

Cat6 is a 250mhz whereas Cat5e is a 100mhz. This provides additional headroom. Cat6 can do everything Cat5e can do and it will also do limited distances of 10 gigabit ethernet. Cat6a or Cat6 augmented is spec'd to 500mhz. Cat6a will do 100m of 10 gigabit ethernet whereas the Cat6 is limited distances. The test and certification equipment is more expensive for Cat6 and especially Cat6a. Where you will really pay is for the hardware, ie patch panels, jacks, etc. For the majority of small office situations or retail Cat5e will work fine but why not put in Cat6 (other than price)?


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Been practicing wiring up the RJ-45 jacks and doing well. Spent most of the afternoon getting it right and and testing it out on my own internet connection. Tomorrow I go back to install the 5-port LINKSYS switch I bought at Staples this afternoon. I'll take some pics.


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> Been practicing wiring up the RJ-45 jacks and doing well. Spent most of the afternoon getting it right and and testing it out on my own internet connection. Tomorrow I go back to install the 5-port LINKSYS switch I bought at Staples this afternoon. I'll take some pics.


Don't you know that only the 'hacks' buy their networking supplies at Staples? :thumbup:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

CTshockhazard said:


> Don't you know that only the 'hacks' buy their networking supplies at Staples? :thumbup:


I'm guessing you're kidding, but where do you shop for your networking needs? 

Does Monoprice have stuff?


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

It depends on the caliber of gear you need. For basic networking gear check out Newegg and buy brand name stuff.


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> Been practicing wiring up the RJ-45 jacks and doing well. Spent most of the afternoon getting it right and and testing it out on my own internet connection. Tomorrow I go back to install the 5-port LINKSYS switch I bought at Staples this afternoon. I'll take some pics.


Its pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Now time to budget for that cable tester. :thumbsup: Let us know how it goes.


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## JoeKP (Nov 16, 2009)

MisterCMK said:


> Its pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Now time to budget for that cable tester. :thumbsup: Let us know how it goes.


I am actually in need for a new one, do you guys have any suggestions?


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> I'm guessing you're kidding, but where do you shop for your networking needs?
> 
> Does Monoprice have stuff?


Yes I was kidding. 

I don't do a lot of networking work, but when I do, I use either one of my electrical supply houses (P&S, Leviton, Panduit) or ADI (Honeywell).

While I really prefer P&S for electrical devices, I don't like their data jacks much, they seat into the plate from the front. Leviton seems to be the easiest to terminate that I've dealt with. I always leave a service loop in the CAT5e, especially at the data jacks to have room for the termination process. Nothing like trying to punch them down when your holding the jack in your hand.


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

JoeKP said:


> I am actually in need for a new one, do you guys have any suggestions?


How much do you want to spend and what types of cables are you going to test?


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

MisterCMK said:


> Its pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Now time to budget for that cable tester. :thumbsup: Let us know how it goes.


Thank you for all the help. I mean that sincerely. I think the key is to buy the stuff you need and do it at home first then take the show on the road. The HO's were more than happy and it looks like I'll be doing a similar job at their in-laws pretty soon. 

Here's the set up and the home made shelf for the switch. Cables come in from the back directly into their ports with RJ-45 connectors. :thumbsup:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Now if I wanted to say add a server to the network so I could have a printer in a remote location from the computer how would I set that up? 

I'll supply the questions as long you keep answering them :laughing:


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## BigJohn20 (Mar 23, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> Now if I wanted to say add a server to the network so I could have a printer in a remote location from the computer how would I set that up?
> 
> I'll supply the questions as long you keep answering them :laughing:


The easiest way is to get a printer with an ethernet port. Assign a Static IP to the printer and it will be visible to all computers on the network and you won't have to worry about it getting reassigned a different IP through DHCP.

You can also buy an add-on piece called a print server that hooks directly up to your printer. Same process as above.

If you want to use an old computer as a print server, you have to download a piece of software that will allow that computer to act as a print server. There are plenty of free solutions. A simple search on Google with the words "print server old computer" brings up plenty results on how to do this yourself.

Also, you can simply hook up an old computer to the network and then share the printer. You then add a new printer in Control Panel on your other computers, choosing to search the network for a printer instead of looking for one locally. Google "printer sharing windows" and you'll get plenty of hits for all different operating systems.

The downfall to the last two solutions is that you need to have the computer on at all times. Using a printer with an ethernet port or using a print server will allow you to print as long as the printer is on.


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> Thank you for all the help. I mean that sincerely. I think the key is to buy the stuff you need and do it at home first then take the show on the road. The HO's were more than happy and it looks like I'll be doing a similar job at their in-laws pretty soon.
> 
> Here's the set up and the home made shelf for the switch. Cables come in from the back directly into their ports with RJ-45 connectors. :thumbsup:


Looks good! One thing you could look at is putting in a patch panel. There are rack mount versions or small wall mount ones. Leviton makes them and also ICC and a whole host of other companies make them. 



Magnettica said:


> Now if I wanted to say add a server to the network so I could have a printer in a remote location from the computer how would I set that up?
> 
> I'll supply the questions as long you keep answering them :laughing:


Do you want to use a separate PC for it? You can either get a printer with a built in print server or you can add a print server. There are many different variations of print servers and you can get them in wired or wireless. Setting them up is easy if you follow the documentation. Either way you go, all you need is a data drop to where you want the printer.


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## BigJohn20 (Mar 23, 2009)

egads said:


> Either the patch panel linked or a ethernet switch. A switch is like a router, only it has no firewall built in.


Not even close to being true. A router is a Layer 3 device while a switch is a Layer 2 device. There is nothing in the requirements of something being a router that requires a firewall to be built-in. At anywhere above the SOHO level, separate firewalls are typically used.

There are "Layer 3 switches" but they are more of a merger between traditional routers and switches. Here's an interesting article about Layer 2 - Layer 3 Switches:
http://www.cisco.com/web/about/ac123/ac147/archived_issues/ipj_1-2/switch_evolution.html

That said, at the SOHO level, most "routers" are actually a router + 4 port switch or some varation thereof.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

I was just throwing things out there to see how to do more computer things. 

I appreciate the two of you answering my question on print servers.


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## MisterCMK (Jul 5, 2009)

Not a problem, keep asking if you have questions. I'm sure that I will need to know about high voltage stuff (well, high for me )


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## chenley (Feb 20, 2007)

For the where to purchase networking equipment question. 
I usually go to newegg.com, tigerdirect.com or directron.com

If you are buying switches and routers for a home or small office I would recommend the Linksys brand. Linksys is produced by Cisco who are pretty much the leaders of the networking world.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Linksysis what I bought for my customer, now I might want to do some of this at my house. I'd like to start by relocating my printer to the other side of the room. Hopefully I won't need to buy a long-ass USB cord. Will this allow me to install a Cat6 cable from a switch?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10311&cs_id=1031102&p_id=5345&seq=1&format=2


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## chenley (Feb 20, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> Linksysis what I bought for my customer, now I might want to do some of this at my house. I'd like to start by relocating my printer to the other side of the room. Hopefully I won't need to buy a long-ass USB cord. Will this allow me to install a Cat6 cable from a switch?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10311&cs_id=1031102&p_id=5345&seq=1&format=2


That probably will not work since it would most likely take drivers to make it work. Something like this will take care of your needs though. It's probably not Gigabit, although you should not need Gb speeds for a printer.


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Magnettica said:


> Linksysis what I bought for my customer, now I might want to do some of this at my house. I'd like to start by relocating my printer to the other side of the room. Hopefully I won't need to buy a long-ass USB cord. Will this allow me to install a Cat6 cable from a switch?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10311&cs_id=1031102&p_id=5345&seq=1&format=2


No. I would use http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...030&cm_re=print_server-_-33-124-030-_-Product Or if you have an old computer you can toss a decent size hard drive in it and have a place for backups and extra file storage in addition to sharing the printer :thumbup:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

crazyboy said:


> No. I would use http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...030&cm_re=print_server-_-33-124-030-_-Product Or if you have an old computer you can toss a decent size hard drive in it and have a place for backups and extra file storage in addition to sharing the printer :thumbup:


Awesome! Thanks!


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

chenley said:


> That probably will not work since it would most likely take drivers to make it work. Something like this will take care of your needs though. It's probably not Gigabit, although you should not need Gb speeds for a printer.


That too!:thumbsup:


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