# RMC tools



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Benders are always handy. :jester:

What sizes do you propose to work with?


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## tie003uk (Nov 7, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> Benders are always handy. :jester:
> 
> What sizes do you propose to work with?


 first time on site over here working in a hospital would be nice for a heads up what to bring


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## user438 (Jun 6, 2007)

Tape measure
Marker or pencil (marker is better)
Hacksaw or cordless sawzall
2 pairs channel locks
Pair of linemans
Flat tip screwdriver
Combo set screw driver/reamer (optional) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-85191-Conduit-Fitting-Reaming-Screwdriver/dp/B000CER0T8/ref=pd_cp_hi_1


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

The above list looks good. I would add the different hacksaw blades (teeth per inch) because you will need both. 18 and 32 TPI.


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

A file if you are working with larger sizes.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

JohnJ0906 said:


> A file if you are working with larger sizes.


That too. I had forgotten. I always kept a rat tail and a half-round with me.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

I'd also have a 3/8" and 7/16" wrenches and nut drivers.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

If you will be using 1/4" beam clamps take a 3/8" X 7/16" speed (ratchet wrench). Very time saving.


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## tie003uk (Nov 7, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> That too. I had forgotten. I always kept a rat tail and a half-round with me.


whats a rat tail?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

tie003uk said:


> whats a rat tail?


A completely round, tapered file. 

It's also the thing that sticks out of the back end of a rat.


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

tie003uk said:


> whats a rat tail?


A thin, round file


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## qckrun (May 18, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> The above list looks good. I would add the different hacksaw blades (teeth per inch) because you will need both. 18 and 32 TPI.


 I dunno about you but using a hacksaw on RMC would be insanely stupid.

And why you wouldn't use a sawzall is beyond me.

I would add to your list:

1-1 Bandsaw, if you have it available as it is nice to cut through the bigger pipe with, unistrut and all thread.
2- 1 2" Strap Wrench
3- 1 6" Strap Wrench(for 2 1/2"-6" RMC[doubt you'll run bigger than 4"])
4- Some crappy gloves you wont mind getting ruined by cutting oil
5- Rags if your contractor doesn't provide them.
6- Protractor to find bends, and to use when your using a table bender.
7- No Dog level so when your making bends on the table bender you dont get any dog legs.
8- 420-460 Channel Locks to tighten your couplings.
9- 1/2"-9/16" and possible 3/4" wrenches, sockets, nut drivers to tighten strut straps.
10- A sledge hammer in case you need to tap the pipe over a bit.


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## azsly1 (Nov 12, 2008)

14" pipe wrench x2
tape measure
speed wrenches (3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 3/4") 
level
rope (used when you need to drop or suspend a long run to spin a 90 on)
gloves (as previously stated)

the following should be company supplied...

555 bender

either a ratchet threader or 700 & tristand with an oil pot, a 300 or 300c threading machine

a gang box to hold all your hardware

pipe rack to hold the pipe. 

above is for 2" and under pipe, larger you'll need a hogs head or 1224 threader, some larger pipe wrenches a company supplied bender for 2 1/2" and larger.

rigid is a blast to put up. i consider it a good challenge, and when it looks good when its up, nothing beats it. :thumbsup:

slip joint pliers (channel locks) have their purpose, in a pinch they can be used for rigid, but pipe wrenches work much better IMO


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

A job spec I read one time included "all conduit to be made up wrench tight", and on further down, "all conduit shall be free from wrench marks". 

Hmmm... I guess that pretty much only left you to use a strap wrench?


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## azsly1 (Nov 12, 2008)

got me there. i think alot of those 'no wrench mark' remarks are referring to skinning the galv completely off.(what channel locks tend to do) what do you do with the marks that the threader leaves in the pipe from the jaws?


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

azsly1 said:


> got me there. i think alot of those 'no wrench mark' remarks are referring to skinning the galv completely off.(what channel locks tend to do) what do you do with the marks that the threader leaves in the pipe from the jaws?


Guess you have to thread everything by hand :jester:

~Matt


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## qckrun (May 18, 2009)

If you strip the Galv off or put marks in the pipe just respray with galv spray at least here in Nor Cal thats what they want. Sometimes its impossible to not get marks in the pipe.

Sucks especially with PVC Coated and the pipe starts slipping in the jaws of the threader.


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## user438 (Jun 6, 2007)

qckrun said:


> I dunno about you but using a hacksaw on RMC would be insanely stupid.
> 
> And why you wouldn't use a sawzall is beyond me.
> 
> ...


 
Cordless sawzall's haven't been around that long, before that it was all hacksaw baby. I'll admit I haven't touched my hacksaw in at least 12 years except for maybe once or twice when my batteries died on the cordless


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## jwjrw (Jan 14, 2010)

Rich R said:


> Cordless sawzall's haven't been around that long, before that it was all hacksaw baby. I'll admit I haven't touched my hacksaw in at least 12 years except for maybe once or twice when my batteries died on the cordless


Or I only had to cut one piece. It would of took me longer to get the sawzall,blade and battery out. But I too hardly ever use my hacksaw anymore.


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