# 8' strips



## kbsparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Jack chain hanging from tek screws.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I use beam clips for the chain and only use (4) lamp F32T8 strips.. those 96" T8 lamps are very pricy from what I am hearing..

Tandem fixtures are 8' strips that take (4) lamps


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

3xdad said:


> What method do you use to hang 8' strips from steel Z purlin?
> 
> Also, what's your fixture of choice?
> 
> ...


I use 1/4 x 20 toggle bolts and drill the holes to make them line up.
If im going to hang them lower i will use 3/8" threaded rod so they are good and solid.




> On another subject, while up on the scaffold i tried to use the "force" to get an MC connector. i think i saw one wiggle in the box, but it did'nt fly up to my hand


 IDK what you trying to say


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## mattsilkwood (Sep 21, 2008)

I use 12-24 tek screws if I'm going right to the purlin.


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## mattsilkwood (Sep 21, 2008)

HARRY304E said:


> IDK what you trying to say


 Use the force Luke. :laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

The F96T8 goes for about $14.00.. F32T8 goes for $2.00


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

mattsilkwood said:


> Use the force Luke. :laughing:


 :laughing::laughing:


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

B4T said:


> I use beam clips for the chain and only use (4) lamp F32T8 strips.. those 96" T8 lamps are very pricy from what I am hearing..
> 
> Tandem fixtures are 8' strips that take (4) lamps


i'll look into beam clips for pulin. Is the one in your pic for I-beam?



mattsilkwood said:


> I use 12-24 tek screws if I'm going right to the purlin.


That works. i always try to jack chain them down a little, because the Meuller bldgs. around here have those steel cables going criss cross right below the purlins.



B4T said:


> The F96T8 goes for about $14.00.. F32T8 goes for $2.00


i get Sylvania FO96 for $7.61, but if the tandem strips and lamps are less expensive, then that's the way to go.

i could'nt find a picture of those Dottie 629 10 GA. side mount hangers. i mount a 1/4" eyebolt to the purlin, S hook, jack chain, S hook, Dottie hanger to strip. Probably too much work.

Quick question. How do you quote just a specific part of a reply instead of hitt'in the reply with quote button?

Thanks


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Don't overthink this. Those purlins aren't much thicker than sheet metal.

I use hex washer head self drilling screws to attach the first link of the jack chain. Heck, I do the same on bar joists sometimes too.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

3xdad said:


> i'll look into beam clips for pulin. Is the one in your pic for I-beam?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The lamp price for 96" T8 was from Grainger.. VERY pricy 

These are the beam clamps.. they also come in different thickness..

http://www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcHammerOnFlangeClip.asp


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## Lz_69 (Nov 1, 2007)

We used self tapping eye lag screw, s hooks, and then the jack chain. Probably overkill for most applications but it probably necessary with all the seismic requirement for being on the pacific coast. 

http://www.ucanfast.com/products/de...gory=Medium+Duty+Anchors&sc=180&productid=243


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

Same here, self-tapping screw right into the jack chain into the perlin. I agree with b4t, Ive only been using the quads as well...much cheaper and they usually only have to stock one lamp..


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## NormW64 (Jan 19, 2011)

For purlins we use Caddy fasteners. 

Here's the link http://www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcCZPurlinClps.asp

Better looking job = very happy customer 

Tek screw with a fender washer just doesn't look as professional - imo - sorry if I offend anyone.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

This is what you guys call a perlin.. everything here is steel trusses..


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

NormW64 said:


> For purlins we use Caddy fasteners.
> 
> Here's the link http://www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcCZPurlinClps.asp
> 
> ...


Those are nice. IMO , the tek screws look fine and on top of that, I doubt any customer would even notice.


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## NormW64 (Jan 19, 2011)

http://www.metaldeck.com/Images/120x80_zee_purlins.jpg

He was asking about the Z Purlin. Slightly different than the C purlin. The lip is not horizontal, it is angled.

Funny how different areas have different names for the same thing... your trusses are "bar joists" here.


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

These are slick.
http://www.ucanfast.com/admin/fasteners/p243_t2.jpg

http://www.erico.com/public/images/products/FF-Electrical/NorthAmerica/C_Zclips.jpg

Great info, thanks.

Those dottie hangers look like this.

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/pu...ujVJhr7xM2REvef28KaO2dPRJ1qS4PzX2KPGpmrQQ=s90

How about on the light side, what do you guys use to attach jack chain to the strip?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

These work the best and look professional compared to hooking chain through the side factory holes..


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## NormW64 (Jan 19, 2011)

Ditto B4T's method.


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)




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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

how thick are those joists?


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

*#1 Engineered Structural Shapes with the Mueller Punch Pattern* 
*C & Z Purlin* _Size_ _Gauge_ _Wt./Ft._ 4" x 2-1/2" 16 2.09# 4" x 2-1/2" 14 2.68# 6" x 2-1/2" 16 2.50# 6" x 2-1/2" 14 3.22# 8" x 2-1/2" 16 2.92# 8" x 2-1/2" 14 3.76# 8" x 2-1/2" 12 4.39# 8" x 3-1/2" 16 3.42# 8" x 3-1/2" 14 4.29# 8" x 3-1/2" 12 5.87# 10" x 2-1/2" 16 3.42# 10" x 2-1/2" 14 4.29# 10" x 2-1/2" 12 5.87# 10" x 3-1/2" 14 4.82# 10" x 3-1/2" 12 6.63# 

They are 8x3.5 so either 14 or 16 guage.


That was supposed to show up as a list. Sorry 'bout that.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

Looks good, eyebolts are the way to go.


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## oldtimer (Jun 10, 2010)

BuzzKill said:


> Looks good, eyebolts are the way to go.


Could you not have just drilled the hole in the beam closer to the edge, and just used S hooks?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

oldtimer said:


> Could you not have just drilled the hole in the beam closer to the edge, and just used S hooks?


Even easier is using the beam clips I poster earlier.. bang them on and done.. :thumbsup:

Everyone has their own style and his looks good..


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## den (Mar 28, 2009)

I seen a comercial buiding crew using one of those powder actuated guns shooting in threaded bolts in steel. they were real fast. one guy shot them in and the other guy on lift would put on eye nut with chain. It was noisey but they went fast hanging chain and came back thru lower down hanging lites. I was impressed but don't take much to impress me.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

B4T said:


> Even easier is using the beam clips I poster earlier.. bang them on and done.. :thumbsup:
> .


definitely a labor saver


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## Norcal (Mar 22, 2007)

The chain looks good but the method of joining the strips looks DIYish.
Looks a lot nicer to use a end cap in the slots in the ends of the fixture provided by the manufacturer, faster/cheaper/better.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Norcal said:


> The chain looks good but the method of joining the strips looks DIYish.
> Looks a lot nicer to use a end cap in the slots in the ends of the fixture provided by the manufacturer, faster/cheaper/better.
> 
> 
> ...


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## jusme123 (Dec 27, 2010)

...why two supports right next to each other, usually we just bolt together, chase nipple, and drop one support? It does look good though, nice job!!


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

jusme123 said:


> ...why two supports right next to each other, usually we just bolt together, chase nipple, and drop one support? It does look good though, nice job!!


It would be easier to chase nipple the strips together if you were working alone by using (2) hangers per strip..


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## jusme123 (Dec 27, 2010)

B4T said:


> It would be easier to chase nipple the strips together if you were working alone by using (2) hangers per strip..


...than take a piece of 12 and make a temp support (if its only a couple lights I guess its does not make that much difference)


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Norcal said:


> The chain looks good but the method of joining the strips looks DIYish.
> Looks a lot nicer to use a end cap in the slots in the ends of the fixture provided by the manufacturer, faster/cheaper/better.


Think of it like this you use a chase nippel and screws for the end caps and you have a solid conection between the fixtures..

I would use 3/8" rod instead of chain my self for a Rigid professional install..:thumbsup:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

HARRY304E said:


> I would use 3/8" rod instead of chain my self for a Rigid professional install..:thumbsup:


3/8 rod?? :blink::blink:

You would triple the installation time and I have never seen strip lights hung from rod of any size..


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## Norcal (Mar 22, 2007)

HARRY304E said:


> Think of it like this you use a chase nippel and screws for the end caps and you have a solid conection between the fixtures..
> 
> I would use 3/8" rod instead of chain my self for a Rigid professional install..:thumbsup:


If you use a endcap in the slots you still have a solid connection/bond between the fixtures, with fewer parts, nothing extra to buy.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Norcal said:


> If you use a endcap in the slots you still have a solid connection/bond between the fixtures, with fewer parts, nothing extra to buy.


 Thats true you can do it eather way. I like to take a few extra steps that is how i sell my jobs..:thumbsup:


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## Mike_586 (Mar 24, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> Don't overthink this. Those purlins aren't much thicker than sheet metal.
> 
> I use hex washer head self drilling screws to attach the first link of the jack chain. Heck, I do the same on bar joists sometimes too.


A standard way to do it around here that's probably the the most reliable and cost effective for the money. 



B4T said:


> The F96T8 goes for about $14.00.. F32T8 goes for $2.00


I can't remember the last time I've installed 8' new fixtures. They're becoming a bit of a white elephant.



jusme123 said:


> ...why two supports right next to each other, usually we just bolt together, chase nipple, and drop one support? It does look good though, nice job!!


Well there's code for one thing. I'm not sure about the NEC or local state amendments, but I suspect that a good number of states might have amendments and north of the border on a national level, that wouldn't fly.



B4T said:


> 3/8 rod?? :blink::blink:
> 
> You would triple the installation time and I have never seen strip lights hung from rod of any size..


I've seen fixtures suspended of 3/8, even 1/2 on the rare occasion and it does look good initially. 

The reality is that it makes for some of the ugliest crap I've ever seen years down the road after its taken a few hits and the rod gets bent from getting bumped by ladders, scaffolds, forklifts, etc. in warehouses. It also makes maintenance more troublesome vs. chain when your options to get at it are limited and you can't swing it out of the way.

Some ideas are only good in theory.

Given the choice, I'd prefer some of B4T's suggested methods and would pass them by the customers as my preferred option with the price differences and pros/cons of the available methods, but the decision is ultimately theirs to make and you can only hope they heed your advice. 

In most situations you gotta do what the guy who ultimately signs the check wants...


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