# 12 ft from meter to main panel



## electric3675 (Nov 22, 2016)

i checked out a job today and i notice the panel was over 12 ft away from meter going thru house in conduit with no main meter beaker so conduit enter house for 12foot before disconnect panel what are any feedback i think it should have a disconnect meter since its inside...


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Yes, while there is no exact set distance, I think 12 foot is longer than any municipality would allow.

So a disconnect outside or inside closest to where the service enters would be required.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

It is much longer than most area allowed have unfused conductors run inside the building.

I am on same page as Hackwork posted. 

AFAIK .,, most useally keep it short as possible useally anywhere from 6 to 8 feet the most.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

Some areas permit 15'. Others apply the rule exactly as written: "nearest the point of entrance". 

Our town requires all service conductors to be in rigid conduit and permits up to 10' of conduit inside the building.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I can go up to 10 foot if I put it in GRC. Outside I could wrap around the house five times.


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## lightman (Oct 14, 2015)

Around here you can get away with back to back but further than that requires over current protection. Some of the COOP's always require a main.


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

From a bulk manufacturing standpoint, they should just eliminate plain meter pans and build only meter mains with a blank-off option for the breaker. Is the Milbank guy still around here???


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

LawnGuyLandSparky said:


> From a bulk manufacturing standpoint, they should just eliminate plain meter pans and build only meter mains with a blank-off option for the breaker. Is the Milbank guy still around here???


Why? No one wants to have to purchase a larger and more expensive meter pan.

That's like manufacturing only 200A panels and putting a 100A breaker in for those who need 100A.


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

lightman said:


> Around here you can get away with back to back but further than that requires over current protection. Some of the COOP's always require a main.



How does that back to back work if running, say, like 4/0 wire?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Roger123 said:


> How does that back to back work if running, say, like 4/0 wire?


If they are actually back to back, like in a garage scenario, I would just install a short 5" PVC nipple between them and run the 4/0 XHHW thru that.

If they are back to back in the sense that the meter is outside 5' or so above grade and the panel is inside the basement down below, I would run a piece of PVC pipe down to an LB that turns in at the rim joist. Then I would run 4/0 SE cable thru that sleeve into the house and down into the panel. That's a bit easier than running PVC the entire way into the panel.


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## electric3675 (Nov 22, 2016)

so electrician updated the service and the panel was in a crawl space so he moved the panel 12 ft from the old spot to the new location in basement where its full basement he didnt pull a permit its a homeline 40 space 60 circuit with about 50 circuits the whole thing is full plus twin breakers and pvc from meter to panel in my area most inspector will let you go up to 8 ft before disconnect. MY question is now theres no protection until u get to the telephone pole and traveling 12 ft inside no disconnect i would put a disconnect on inside or a diisconnect meter outside but then i willl have to divide the neutrals and grounds and run one more wire a neutral since the neutral now is bare. The home owner wants it safe i said if it was my house i would put a disconnect. you think i need protection


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

HackWork said:


> If they are actually back to back, like in a garage scenario, I would just install a short 5" PVC nipple between them and run the 4/0 XHHW thru that.
> 
> If they are back to back in the sense that the meter is outside 5' or so above grade and the panel is inside the basement down below, I would run a piece of PVC pipe down to an LB that turns in at the rim joist. Then I would run 4/0 SE cable thru that sleeve into the house and down into the panel. That's a bit easier than running PVC the entire way into the panel.


Thanks Hack, but I should have been more specific. 

Running back to back for me always creates some bending problems with larger wire. Also, I was told that it violates the bending space, especially in the meter sockets.

Also, also,  I install the same way as you listed. :thumbsup:


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Why? No one wants to have to purchase a larger and more expensive meter pan.
> 
> That's like manufacturing only 200A panels and putting a 100A breaker in for those who need 100A.


Actually, through the miracle of bulk manufacturing, the cost of a 100a or 200a metermain would come down. (Mind you I'm just throwing this out there for the sake of discussion.) As an everyday bulk item, if metermains became the rule rather than the exception, costs would plummet. From a safety standpoint it's ideal in the event of a fire or gas emergency, clears up the whole"how far can I go w/o ocp" issue. The idea of having ANY unfused conductors within a dwelling, whether your locality allows 6', 12' 15' or whatever, is appalling.


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## lightman (Oct 14, 2015)

Roger123 said:


> How does that back to back work if running, say, like 4/0 wire?


It works fine. It takes a little measuring to get the meter height right and the knockout in back to hit a good spot in the panel. With a 2in nipple thru the wall I do the short bend in the meter socket first so that I can pull the wire out and form the bend. The panel end has enough wire that that bend is fairly easy to make. All in all, it makes a good neat installation.


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## Gnome (Dec 25, 2013)

The downside of a meter main is at -40 the breaker will handle a lot more current than the rating.


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