# Will an Ikea cabinet support the weight of a wall oven??



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

99cents said:


> Customer has new Ikea cabinets. The wall oven will be sitting on a shelf about 6" above the lower drawer unit. My JB is in the cavity between the drawer unit and the shelf. Not a lot of room to work but oh well.
> 
> My concern is the strength of that shelf. It's just Ikea particle board. The oven weighs 140 lbs. I don't need that thing breaking through the shelf and crushing my arms while I do the connections.
> 
> ...


 The oven lip will be held by the yoke of the cabinet, so you should be fine


----------



## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

It will be fine. Until they stick a 30 pound turkey in there next Thanksgiving.:thumbup:


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Okay, I'll make sure there's no turkey in there when I hook 'er up  .


----------



## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

99cents said:


> Okay, I'll make sure there's no turkey in there when I hook 'er up  .


Get ready for the thing to collapse. Those piece of junk cabinets have a hard enough time holding themselves up! At best it will sag.......:whistling2:


----------



## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

99cents said:


> My concern is the strength of that shelf. It's just Ikea particle board. The oven weighs 140 lbs. I don't need that thing breaking through the shelf and crushing my arms while I do the connections.


I don't think you will have to worry. I suspect the shelf will break right away on the oven being installed on it.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Apparently the installers installed the oven and drilled a hole for the cord yesterday. It's still holding. I guess I'll take my chances. Anybody got a red Robertson screwdriver about 30 inches long?

And, no, I have no freakin' idea how much 30" is in millimeters. Something less than 1000.


----------



## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

I bet it'll be fine and last for years. Those Ikea cabinets are pretty well constructed.

We should start taking bets.


----------



## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

FrunkSlammer said:


> I bet it'll be fine and last for years. Those Ikea cabinets are pretty well constructed.
> 
> We should start taking bets.


What do you Canaduhians call good cabinets? Potato crates? If you call Ikea cabinets "well constructed" I'd never trust you to build a dog house. The ones I've seen can't even be hung on the wall with screws. They have a metal track that is screwed to the wall and the cabinet hangs on that. They MIGHT be okay if you don't put anything heavier in them that paper plates and plastic cutlery. Junk. The Harbor Freight of cabinetry.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Job done. Appendages intact. Wallet fat.


----------



## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

wendon said:


> If you call Ikea cabinets "well constructed" I'd never trust you to build a dog house.


I said PRETTY well constructed.

We had them in our last house.. they were better than I expected, held a lot of weight, the finish was very durable.. and they're CHEAP! We have "high end" cabinets in our current house, but I would totally install Ikea cabinets again.. best deal out there.


----------



## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

My avatar is from ikea :thumbsup:


----------



## Harry 70 (Jan 27, 2014)

*Ikea ( I. Know.Easy.Alternatives.)*



99cents said:


> Customer has new Ikea cabinets. The wall oven will be sitting on a shelf about 6" above the lower drawer unit. My JB is in the cavity between the drawer unit and the shelf. Not a lot of room to work but oh well.
> 
> My concern is the strength of that shelf. It's just Ikea particle board. The oven weighs 140 lbs. I don't need that thing breaking through the shelf and crushing my arms while I do the connections.
> 
> ...


I dread knowing what has to be done in this situation! Is there a bottom drawer on the cab? If so, screw a couple of strips 1"X2" s, side to side, and front to back. If there is no bottom drawer, you have to cut the sitting surface out. Drill in each corner using either a 1" paddle bit, or 1" hole saw, then cut from front to back, side to side( tight against the outer wall). Once removed, do the same as earlier with the wood strips. This Is how I have always dealt with this particular situation. Good Luck Brother!!


----------



## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

I installed some Ikea cabinets many years ago and the legs system sucked. I ended up chucking the legs and building the kick boxes for stability.

I installed a different brand of Ikea cabinets in my current house about 5 years ago and they are the best cabinets I've ever had. I glued everything together instead of relying strictly on the hardware. It's true that you cant screw them to the wall like normal cabinets but the rail system works well.


----------



## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

In my experience, it's not so much the _weight_ as it is the _heat _evaporating all the glue holding cheapo cabs together....

~CS~


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

220/221 said:


> I installed some Ikea cabinets many years ago and the *legs system sucked*.


I put an Ikea cabinet in once and replaced those flimsy plastic legs with plumbers flanges and 3/4" threaded steel nipples. Works great. You thread them out to get the cabinet level.


----------



## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

Harry 70 said:


> I dread knowing what has to be done in this situation! Is there a bottom drawer on the cab? If so, screw a couple of strips 1"X2" s, side to side, and front to back. If there is no bottom drawer, you have to cut the sitting surface out. Drill in each corner using either a 1" paddle bit, or 1" hole saw, then cut from front to back, side to side( tight against the outer wall). Once removed, do the same as earlier with the wood strips. This Is how I have always dealt with this particular situation. Good Luck Brother!!


Wow, you created an account in an electrician forum to tell us to do some rough furring inside a finish cabinet?

Interesting.

Anyway in akurum based cabinets its way easier to take off the back panel and simply unscrew and remove a panel then getting all B4T hole-saw & sawzall scissor style on it! 

Most of these cabinets are held to the wall or track using only 4 bolts or screws. 

The side panels (somebody called them "yolks?") hold all the weight and are fastened to the wall or track using angle brackets. The wall oven should be fitted to the side wall panels for proper support.

The horizontal panels are mainly just spacers and are secured to the side structural panels with metal cross dowels and conformat screw inserts.


----------



## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

99cents said:


> I put an Ikea cabinet in once and replaced those flimsy plastic legs with plumbers flanges and 3/4" threaded steel nipples. Works great. You thread them out to get the cabinet level.


Those plastic legs are just for leveling and securing the baseboard plinth toekick. If you use the plastic leg kit you are supposed to hang the base cabinets off a wall cleat in the back and then fasten the tops securely to the wall. They also sell other leg kits that are more expensive sturdy and decorative than the $5 plastic leveling ones if your plan is to not use toekick.

Did you paint the pipe and leave it exposed, or attach toekick somehow?


----------



## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

220/221 said:


> I installed some Ikea cabinets many years ago and the legs system sucked. I ended up chucking the legs and building the kick boxes for stability.
> 
> I installed a different brand of Ikea cabinets in my current house about 5 years ago and they are the best cabinets I've ever had. I glued everything together instead of relying strictly on the hardware. It's true that you cant screw them to the wall like normal cabinets but the rail system works well.


Those are great cabinets, and they really nice with the side panels or some stained scribe molding to hide the gap from the rail system, and some light rail valence to hide the under-cabinet lights.


----------



## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

markore said:


> Those are great cabinets, and they really nice with the side panels or some stained scribe molding to hide the gap from the rail system, and some light rail valence to hide the under-cabinet lights.


It took a while but I finally got around to installing the side panels so the gap and UC lights are concealed. :thumbup:


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

220/221 said:


> It took a while but I finally got around to installing the side panels so the gap and UC lights are concealed. :thumbup:


 
was the paint color your wife's idea?

I let mine talk me into canary yellow.....and let's just say it ummmm.......yeah


----------



## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

drspec said:


> was the paint color your wife's idea?
> 
> I let mine talk me into canary yellow.....and let's just say it ummmm.......yeah


When I was 13 my mom hired a female painter with a hvlp spray rig to paint the exterior "wheat sheaf" which looked like a beige/tan on the color card. 

Yeah, lets just say we were the first pink house ever seen in a very conservative block known for kkk history. :laughing: Neighbor kids and friends were still joking about it till we sold the place years later...


----------



## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

looks great from my house!


----------

