# Help sourcing conduit hangers



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

g-alberta said:


> Hello all.
> 
> In my jurdistiction we commonly run our conduit in the q deck ribs. It is allowed and conmon practice. The job I am on we are speced compression fittings for all conduits. We can not tighten the fittings when the conduit is in the ribs. I was wondering how you guys hang pipe. I was hoping for a caddy bang on clip that is stood off to get below the top chord of the wilson joists. The tin basher will be running all his duct tight to the bottom chord of the wilson joists.i was thinking getting super deep strut but dont want to take the hit in labour doing that.
> 
> Need to drop down 1.5 - 2 inches


If you can't find a wrench to tighten them good, pull a ground wire. :shifty:


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I assume the joists are two pieces of angle iron on top, two pieces of angle iron on the bottom, and round steel zigzag web between. 

You can run use a toggle bolt between the two angle irons to secure a minerallac hanger under the top bars of the joist. You'll probably need a fender washer between the hanger and the bars. 

You can also use back to back minis bolted together, a half inch mini will clamp to the zig zag. It will hang at an angle which isn't ideal but it will work for small conduits. 

Tie wire seems OK when the conduit is resting on the joist but I doesn't seem OK to hang conduit under the bars with wire.


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## g-alberta (Dec 1, 2012)

I would get flayed if i attempted tie wire. You are correct about the wilson joists


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

I like Splatz idea ... but mineralac makes alot of different hangers too

Something like this might work ?

http://www.minerallac.com/products/conduit-beams-electrical-hardware/beam-clamp-conduit-hanger-4/


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## g-alberta (Dec 1, 2012)

Not enough stand off


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Garvin makes a washer for the job 

http://www.garvinindustries.com/clamps-and-fasteners/washers/bar-joist 

I am going to order some of these just to try. I think they are more made for the joists where the flange (horizontal part) is two round pieces same as the web. 

http://www.garvinindustries.com/images/itemimages/23WBJ.jpg


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

Maybe this ... with a threaded rod to suit ... then your conduit hanger

https://www.cityelectricweb.com/2013/02/thomas-betts-fast-set-beam-clamp/


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## g-alberta (Dec 1, 2012)

splatz said:


> Garvin makes a washer for the job
> 
> http://www.garvinindustries.com/clamps-and-fasteners/washers/bar-joist
> 
> ...




Those look slick


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

emtnut said:


> Maybe this ... with a threaded rod to suit ... then your conduit hanger
> 
> https://www.cityelectricweb.com/2013/02/thomas-betts-fast-set-beam-clamp/


The beam clamp would work with a small spacer. You could use a stack of washers, which is awful, or cut 1" pieces of small diameter pipe and use 1.5" bolts. But there will be more wobble this way, and the bolt through is less fiddly.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

g-alberta said:


> Those look slick


At $0.20 how can you go wrong? 

I'd pay double if they put a 1/4" thread impression in them!


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

You could use a beam clamp and a short piece of all thread.

On another note I think that compression specification is one of the dumbest most labor wasting spec of almost any of them. They suck to work with, they don't allow the conduit to sit flush and they don't ave any more contact area that a good SS. 
Whenever I see this in a spec I know that the EE is just a lazy POS that copies and pastes his specs and really just wants to add costs to the job. I definitely add those costs in.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> *You could use a beam clamp and a short piece of all thread.*
> 
> On another note I think that compression specification is one of the dumbest most labor wasting spec of almost any of them. They suck to work with, they don't allow the conduit to sit flush and they don't ave any more contact area that a good SS.
> Whenever I see this in a spec I know that the EE is just a lazy POS that copies and pastes his specs and really just wants to add costs to the job. I definitely add those costs in.


Done that more than any other method with metal trusses, with great success.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Done that more than any other method with metal trusses, with great success.


Especially now with the cordless band saws they have out now.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> Especially now with the cordless band saws they have out now.


With the small ones it easier than ever, I've had a large 18v for sometime but you'd still need a vise for a nice smooth cut of real short pieces.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

MechanicalDVR said:


> With the small ones it easier than ever, I've had a large 18v for sometime but you'd still need a vise for a nice smooth cut of real short pieces.


**** that M12 you can hold on to an 8-32 and thread a nut right on.


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## billyhunter (Mar 31, 2016)

Use Copper Bline Conduit Hanger, you can search Copper Bline from Copper Industrial website. 

Or you can use Arlington Conduit & Fittings.

https://www.bulbspro.com/conduit.html


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

I would say 90% of the jobs I do like that I use the beam clamp and threaded rod method. For small conduit it is not much of an issue, but with the larger conduits if the OWSJ is even slightly out of level or if there is and elevation change I can adjust the length of threaded rod without the hassle of bending a ¾” offset in a 2” emt.

I like to run a line as far as I can, and use that as a guide for a nice level run, set up all my hangars first and then install the pipe. It is an “assembly line” approach for me. Of course if I have multiple pipes, instead of individual hangers, I will use strut with the beam clamp and threaded rod.

There are tons of beam clamp makers out there. The only issue I ran into (only once) with the beam clamp I selected did not meet the fire rating of the building steel so I had to go with a larger one. Regardless the process was the same.

Cheers
John


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

Off topic slightly, but I thought the code changed and basically banned installing conduit/cables in the location the OP is describing. Thought it had to do with the roofers sending their 6" long screws down through the deck and it hitting the conduit/cables.


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

drewsserviceco said:


> Off topic slightly, but I thought the code changed and basically banned installing conduit/cables in the location the OP is describing. Thought it had to do with the roofers sending their 6" long screws down through the deck and it hitting the conduit/cables.




It is only allowable now if using RMC or IMC. OP is in Canada though, I don't know them rules. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## g-alberta (Dec 1, 2012)

In my jurdistiction it is fully legal


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drewsserviceco said:


> Off topic slightly, but I thought the code changed and basically banned installing conduit/cables in the location the OP is describing. Thought it had to do with the roofers sending their 6" long screws down through the deck and it hitting the conduit/cables.


In code or not it's just a bad place to run it. It's just a target for long screws like you mention.


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## Anathera (Feb 16, 2016)

If your roof decking is the trapezoid stuff caddy makes a trapezoid roof system that seems pretty awesome haven't tried it yet though


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## Anathera (Feb 16, 2016)

They make a decking punch for it, wish I'd known about them before my last job


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

That looks nice, will need to look into that for future projects.

Cheers
John


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