# need ideas, making holes



## arazs5 (Jan 27, 2010)

i recently had to core holes in a second floor of a local university, i did not run the core drill all the way through the steel pan deck because of water issues below (school was in session and i had very limited access to the hole locations on the first floor, they were bitching about my mess) needless to say i figured i'd holesaw out the hole after i pulled the concrete slug out, the only problem is the decking is much tougher than i imagined and it rips teeth off my hole saw almost immediately!! i am trying to use a sawzall right now, but i've gone through 20+ blades and i'm not done!! any great way to remove the steel so i don't lose any more time on a job that i don't have any time to waste on???? \_/-\_/-\_/ (that's my picture of the pan deck!)


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Carbide


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## electric mike (Jun 15, 2009)

Put the core bit back in there, I bet you didn't get all the concrete and thats whats ruining your holesaws and sawzall blades


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## Bbsound (Dec 16, 2011)

electric mike said:


> Put the core bit back in there, I bet you didn't get all the concrete and thats whats ruining your holesaws and sawzall blades



Yeah, I think the core drill would do a nice job of coring a hole.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

If your at metal i bet you can run the core drill dry for a little... It wont kill it... ive done it before with the DD130 no problem... Just go at a slower speed..Maybe periodically pull it out and cool it off...


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## Adam12 (May 28, 2008)

When I was an apprentice doing Tennant Improvement work I was usually designated to catch the cores on the floor below using a bucket. We would come in an hour or so early before the tenants would show up. 

Why didn't you do that? Too late now I guess. I second using a carbide hole saw or don't put too much pressure on your holesaw when your trying to cut through.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

How bigger holes did you core? I know the steel deck your talking about and it shouldn't be wrecking hole saws. Drill a pilot first with a rotary hammer then put your hole saw pilot bit inside there.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

I done simair to Chewy's methold however what I do is do the pilot hole first once you get that done then switch over to soild pilot bit to act like a guide so keep it true along the way and do not go crazy with pressure on core saw.

It will take little more time but you will get there.

Merci,
Marc


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## Celtic (Nov 19, 2007)

arazs5 said:


> any great way to remove the steel so i don't lose any more time on a job that i don't have any time to waste on???? \_/-\_/-\_/ (that's my picture of the pan deck!)


The lower portion of the deck pan will have some cement in it ~ no match for the hole saw and even a sawall blade.

Get the core machine back and run it again with a bucket/trash can below to catch the slug and the water....


or....











....

You *might* be able to cut it using a grinder from below.


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Chisel bit in hammer mode, " I've got a job to do".


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## Celtic (Nov 19, 2007)

Shockdoc said:


> Chisel bit in hammer mode, " I've got a job to do".



...and all day to do it.


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## jimmy21 (Mar 31, 2012)

Angle grinder with a diamond blade


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## tomthenailer (Nov 5, 2011)

Carbide core bit or diamond? If it's carbide run it dry on drill only, it will cut right through the steel and won't damage the carbide teeth. I recently finished 30+ 2"-5" core holes in the exact same material using that method.


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## SparkYZ (Jan 20, 2010)

Get a bucket down there, get the core bit and keep going. You should be able to do it dry, by now.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

SparkYZ said:


> Get a bucket down there, get the core bit and keep going. You should be able to do it dry, by now.


It's been ten days, I hope he got through by now.


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