# Under cabinet Lighting recommendations



## Blockisle9 (Oct 31, 2020)

I haven’t installed under cabinet lighting in over 20 years when all they had was florescent. I have to install them in a lab. I’m looking for something bright and easy to install. Some counter tops are 25 feet long. Any ideas will be appreciated.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

Blockisle9 said:


> I haven’t installed under cabinet lighting in over 20 years when all they had was florescent. I have to install them in a lab. I’m looking for something bright and easy to install. Some counter tops are 25 feet long. Any ideas will be appreciated.


We use led strip lighting in most kitchens we do. Single pole switch feeds to a 5-15r either in the basement or under the sink in the cabinet. An led drivers plunged into the switches receptacle and lvt is run from the driver to where the light strips will be fed. We spray miter bond under the cabinet where the led strips going and they don’t move.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

Phillipd said:


> We use led strip lighting in most kitchens we do. Single pole switch feeds to a 5-15r either in the basement or under the sink in the cabinet. An led drivers plunged into the switches receptacle and lvt is run from the driver to where the light strips will be fed. We spray miter bond under the cabinet where the led strips going and they don’t move.


you’ll have to talk to the supplier about runs that long,most likely need multiple drivers


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Phillipd said:


> We use led strip lighting in most kitchens we do. Single pole switch feeds to a 5-15r either in the basement or under the sink in the cabinet. An led drivers plunged into the switches receptacle and lvt is run from the driver to where the light strips will be fed. We spray miter bond under the cabinet where the led strips going and they don’t move.


Get a hardwired driver and you don’t need a receptacle and an AFCI. I buy custom length sticks that screw down. I would never glue lighting to a cabinet. Never.


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## Blockisle9 (Oct 31, 2020)

Phillipd said:


> We use led strip lighting in most kitchens we do. Single pole switch feeds to a 5-15r either in the basement or under the sink in the cabinet. An led drivers plunged into the switches receptacle and lvt is run from the driver to where the light strips will be fed. We spray miter bond under the cabinet where the led strips going and they don’t move.


Thanks, brand and model?


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## Blockisle9 (Oct 31, 2020)

99cents said:


> Get a hardwired driver and you don’t need a receptacle and an AFCI. I buy custom length sticks that screw down. I would never glue lighting to a cabinet. Never.


Do you have the model you prefer


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

I take it this is a commercial lab. Talk with a good lighting supply to see what is available. LED strip lights are more for residential applications. You need something that stays on all day. They do have LED 120 volt UCL that couple together and are very easy to install. If it is a commercial lab, don't cheap out on the product.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

99cents said:


> Get a hardwired driver and you don’t need a receptacle and an AFCI. I buy custom length sticks that screw down. I would never glue lighting to a cabinet. Never.


those sound nice.do you have a link or pictures?


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## Blockisle9 (Oct 31, 2020)

Phillipd said:


> those sound nice.do you have a link or pictures?


Yes please, would like that also


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

4U Series LED

I get em cheaper at a local lighting outfit called Dial Lighting. They are what I use most of the time and dim well.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Phillipd said:


> those sound nice.do you have a link or pictures?











LED Lights Canada - LED Lights Canada


LED Lights Canada is the leading authority in LED Lights. They have been selling LED Lights products across Canada for over 30 years!




ledlightscanada.com


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## NoBot (Oct 12, 2019)

I been buying from SuperBright LED.com
Their sales team will help you choose the correct LED tape and drivers.


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

Usually I build a LED fixture with 6ft 6in aluminum channel.
You could install multiple lengths and stagger the plastic lens to help align the channels 
However most 12 volt tape can only run 15 ft.
I would look at 24 volt tape to get the longer length


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## ppsh (Jan 2, 2014)

Led tape with aluminum channel extrusions is the only way to go for undercabinet lighting these days. Amazing for closet lighting too. Stick with the 24v.


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## Demitri (Mar 30, 2021)

ppsh said:


> Led tape with aluminum channel extrusions is the only way to go for undercabinet lighting these days. Amazing for closet lighting too. Stick with the 24v.


im a big fan of this LED style as well. i just would not have taken them all the way touching side walls. High gloss tiles reflecting too much of the light.


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## Demitri (Mar 30, 2021)

there are lots of options for undercabinet. For lab setting i would definitely go with a strip style light. If you haven't done this for that long of a time i would also pay attention to existing light color in the area as well. Lab setting may be higher that 3500k. I would try to match existing color, otherwise it will look off.


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## Demitri (Mar 30, 2021)

Blockisle9 said:


> Do you have the model you prefer





Phillipd said:


> those sound nice.do you have a link or pictures?


AFCI? in a lab? is that a code where you are? That would apply to residential where i am


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

ppsh said:


> Led tape with aluminum channel extrusions is the only way to go for undercabinet lighting these days. Amazing for closet lighting too. Stick with the 24v.


Those are really nice,so you screw the rail on them stick the strips to the rail?


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## Blockisle9 (Oct 31, 2020)

ppsh said:


> Led tape with aluminum channel extrusions is the only way to go for undercabinet lighting these days. Amazing for closet lighting too. Stick with the 24v.


What brand do you prefer?


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

Phillipd said:


> Those are really nice,so you screw the rail on them stick the strips to the rail?


the extrusions come with clips which you screw to the cabinets. Then the channel snaps into them.
However, I have found that the clips for the 45 deg strip, aren't that great. Real pita to get to hold onto the channel
For those extrusions, I use a commercial grade double sided tape ( don't know the brand as I get the tape from one of my cabinet customers)
I also use 2835 leds vs 5050. More even light with less hot spots on the plastic lens


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

wcord said:


> the extrusions come with clips which you screw to the cabinets. Then the channel snaps into them.
> However, I have found that the clips for the 45 deg strip, aren't that great. Real pita to get to hold onto the channel
> For those extrusions, I use a commercial grade double sided tape ( don't know the brand as I get the tape from one of my cabinet customers)
> I also use 2835 leds vs 5050. More even light with less hot spots on the plastic lens


Very nice thank you I’ll have to look for those


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

Terminology or " whats you call it"? The term LED strip light, is that the low voltage peel and stick that you need a driver for? Or is that the luminaire type that is a complete unit like the fluorescent or halogen type of old?


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## Blockisle9 (Oct 31, 2020)

What 24 volt on the shelf peel and stick brand would be there best choice


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Demitri said:


> AFCI? in a lab? is that a code where you are? That would apply to residential where i am


I was responding to a post about resi.


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

"We have wide selection and many fanciful array of choice!" - ParagonElectric probably


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

You can go colour changing for very little extra cost but you have to run multiconductor cable. Make sure you run enough wires to match up with the driver.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

Is that WAC Lighting? Big $


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Easy (Oct 18, 2017)

I would go with LED strip lights (tape light) and as suggested install the rails with diffusers to keep them in place rather than using the double back tape to attach them only to have them sag or fall over time. Color changing strips are probably not that well suited for a residential kitchen but if a customer wants it then you might consider it but they require special drivers and usually are controlled by remotes, in wall color wheels, DMX or some other method and those type of controllers just don’t look good in the wall next to plugs and switches that are another color like white or ivory.

The main reason for using strip lights for under counter or in cabinet lighting is that they are low profile and easy to install. They come in all shapes and sized but the main thing to consider is color temperature and light density. I normally use double density 5050’s as they are a good value and give off plenty of light. Something else to consider is the driver. It’s probably money well spent if you use a dimmable driver that will work with a standard dimmer. Like the ABI 120W Power Supply Driver TRIAC Dimmable Transformer for LED Lights. It would be a good idea to set up a test run at your shop to see how well the driver works with your favorite dimmers. I normally use Lutron dimmers such as the Maestro or even the Lutron Caseta *ELV* if there is a driver involved. It’s always a good thing to bench test your setup before you install it if you want smooth dimming.


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

99cents said:


> LED Lights Canada - LED Lights Canada
> 
> 
> LED Lights Canada is the leading authority in LED Lights. They have been selling LED Lights products across Canada for over 30 years!
> ...


I saved the link thank you very much


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

Don't they make something that's similar to my flourescent "Inch Lights" that are slim, low-profile under cabinet fixture sized in various lengths like 8" 12" 16" 24" 30" 36" and 48" but with LEDs in them, that can be fed with a cable or MC stubbed out of the wall like god meant it to be? All the LED stuff shown so far appears kind of flimsy and delicate and not suitable for a commercial environment.


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

LGLS said:


> Don't they make something that's similar to my flourescent "Inch Lights" that are slim, low-profile under cabinet fixture sized in various lengths like 8" 12" 16" 24" 30" 36" and 48" but with LEDs in them, that can be fed with a cable or MC stubbed out of the wall like god meant it to be? All the LED stuff shown so far appears kind of flimsy and delicate and not suitable for a commercial environment.


I just installed a bunch of Nicor 41 inch long 120 volt LED UCL ( NIC540 I think ) and they were very easy to install and only 3/4 inch. About $60.00 each.


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

kb1jb1 said:


> I just installed a bunch of Nicor 41 inch long 120 volt LED UCL ( NIC540 I think ) and they were very easy to install and only 3/4 inch. About $60.00 each.


I'll venture to guess 41" of peel and stick tape light LEDs is much cheaper, hence it's popularity? And it's all low voltage so nothing is listed other than the power pack?


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## ppsh (Jan 2, 2014)

LGLS said:


> Don't they make something that's similar to my flourescent "Inch Lights" that are slim, low-profile under cabinet fixture sized in various lengths like 8" 12" 16" 24" 30" 36" and 48" but with LEDs in them, that can be fed with a cable or MC stubbed out of the wall like god meant it to be? All the LED stuff shown so far appears kind of flimsy and delicate and not suitable for a commercial environment.


If the damage would hurt the led channel lights, it will hurt an undercab fixture.


LGLS said:


> I'll venture to guess 41" of peel and stick tape light LEDs is much cheaper, hence it's popularity? And it's all low voltage so nothing is listed other than the power pack?


Its roughly $5 a foot for the American Lighting high output tape I get from my supplier. Comes in 16.4ft rolls. Tape is UL listed, power supplies are UL listed. There are the amazon special tapes, which are roughly 1/5th the cost, but its hit or miss with LED quality, might end up with sections failing within a year. Not something acceptable with the clientele I'm dealing with.

I'll typically get the generic channel with diffuser off of Amazon, about $1 a foot, works perfectly fine, the name brand channel isn't much more expensive, but some brands have a diffuser that must be slid into place from the end, and cant be snapped in from the face.

Standard undercab fixtures generally trim out faster, however the LED tape opens a ton of options though. You aren't hot gluing romex to the bottom of cabinets, you can light the front edge of the cabinet and have the fixture nearly totally hidden, no issue miter cutting the channel and making 90 degree cuts. It can really create a seamless lighting solution. If the uppers have glass doors, you can light the inside of them with a nearly totally hidden channel, they work great for uplighting, no gaps in the light.

All in all on a basic install you will likely be into it more with the additional labor needed for the custom cuts and soldering. Unless you're doing tract homes or working for poverty tier customers, channel and tape has been the way to go for the last 6 years. No lighting designers will spec out a convectional undercab any longer.

I try to stay away from the RGB color changing tapes, controls are usually pretty clunky and you are typically stuck with that manufacturers control solution and power supplies.


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

Thanks for the details! I appreciate it.


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## Above Code (Apr 14, 2017)

Blockisle9 said:


> I haven’t installed under cabinet lighting in over 20 years when all they had was florescent. I have to install them in a lab. I’m looking for something bright and easy to install. Some counter tops are 25 feet long. Any ideas will be appreciated.


I prefer GM lighting products. Low voltage ribbon controlled by driver.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

LGLS said:


> Don't they make something that's similar to my flourescent "Inch Lights" that are slim, low-profile under cabinet fixture sized in various lengths like 8" 12" 16" 24" 30" 36" and 48" but with LEDs in them, that can be fed with a cable or MC stubbed out of the wall like god meant it to be? All the LED stuff shown so far appears kind of flimsy and delicate and not suitable for a commercial environment.


What makes a commercial environment any different than a residential kitchen? And why run fat cable when you can run LVT?


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

A lot of the cheaper stuff says residential use only. Also residential might only be on for several hours per day. A commercial lab could be on 24/7. If it is a new or good customer make them aware of each option pros and cons. You do not want to install something that burns out or falls apart after a year or so. I went the cheaper route once only to go back at my expense to install the more reliable version. I wanted to keep the customer.
And remember you can buy cheap stuff on Amazon at times, but can you 7se it?


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

99cents said:


> What makes a commercial environment any different than a residential kitchen? And why run fat cable when you can run LVT?


Consider the sheer number of existing inch light florescent installations. I just don't consider a flexible plastic roll of electronic components double stick taped to the underside of a cabinet a "fixture" that will stand the test of time. But then again what does these days?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

LGLS said:


> Consider the sheer number of existing inch light florescent installations. I just don't consider a flexible plastic roll of electronic components double stick taped to the underside of a cabinet a "fixture" that will stand the test of time. But then again what does these days?


I install solid channel with a lens. I personally don’t like adhesive backed LED tape.


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

kb1jb1 said:


> A lot of the cheaper stuff says residential use only. Also residential might only be on for several hours per day. A commercial lab could be on 24/7. If it is a new or good customer make them aware of each option pros and cons. You do not want to install something that burns out or falls apart after a year or so. I went the cheaper route once only to go back at my expense to install the more reliable version. I wanted to keep the customer.
> And remember you can buy cheap stuff on Amazon at times, but can you 7se it?


We installed customer supplied fixtures for a salon.
Turned out that the fixtures were never meant to be on 10 hours a day.
Had to replace them all, with a different model that looked the same but heavier built drivers


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## LGLS (Nov 10, 2007)

99cents said:


> I install solid channel with a lens. I personally don’t like adhesive backed LED tape.


Yea, so since I never touched the stuff I was confusing the junk sold on Aliexpress and Amazon meant for casual decorating with "the good stuff."


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## Spinnerelectric (Apr 7, 2021)

Blockisle9 said:


> I haven’t installed under cabinet lighting in over 20 years when all they had was florescent. I have to install them in a lab. I’m looking for something bright and easy to install. Some counter tops are 25 feet long. Any ideas will be appreciated.








Home - Kelvix







kelvix.com






This company has several options that would work for you. I use the aluminum channel with the defuser. You order whatever length you would like and ask for the driver needed


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## NLC (Jan 13, 2018)

I have done a number of undercabs for commercial applications. A few things to consider: Do you want to hardwire 120V directly into the fixtures? If so, then you are looking at integrated fixtures with built-in drivers, some of which can be attached end to end in a run. If you can and have room to install a driver, then you can use low-voltage *LED lightbars* or tape light and channels, which come in different shapes depending on where you are mounting and the angle the light is throwing). Given that this is a commercial lab, you want a robust product; that can handle long hours. Does it need to be damp-location rated? Many are dry only. I might suggest lightbars from MaxLite (maxlite.com > products > indoor > lightbars). Up to 48" long, and available in 2700K, 3500K, 4000K or 5000K, depending on the needs of the lab. LightDisty.com will offer very good pricing; tell them Nuova Luce sent you.


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## Meyerswiresinc. (Apr 7, 2021)

Blockisle9 said:


> I haven’t installed under cabinet lighting in over 20 years when all they had was florescent. I have to install them in a lab. I’m looking for something bright and easy to install. Some counter tops are 25 feet long. Any ideas will be appreciated.


Hi I have been installing TASK Lighting for over 25 years. It is second to none. I started out w/ there incadescent, moved up to their Xenon and of course LED. Sempria is the the product that I use by Task. They are located in Nebraska. Believe it or not you use 16-2 or 18-2 for the wiring. It does not better than that. Trust me there is nothing better. You can go into one fixture and come out tp another. It comes w/ a back strip & you snap the sempria right into place. Also comes w/ moulding to hide the wires even mitered moulding. Comes w/ Drivers. Here is there direct # 800 445-6404. Ask for Rachel


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## Tonedeaf (Nov 26, 2012)

Tape LED lights with adhesive strips work just fine IMO.

The Stuff the depot and lowes sells is ok if you don't need to be too complicated. Straight runs no jumpers.

If you need alot of splices and jumpers I recommend *Wac lighting*...most supply houses sell this stuff

IF you are buying from internet *hafele tape light *is pretty good I have used them in the past and alot of furniture with built in lights have this stuff already installed


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