# Kitchen lighting



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

T&K said:


> Almost complete. All that is left is the over cabinet lights. The best I can remember, we have about 70 hours labor in the kitchen lighting and power.


. Looks nice ! I love a kitchen you can land a plane in , lol !


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

Everything in this house is big, even the mechanical rooms for once. This is one of the two. It's on the upper level just above the kitchen. One sub is for outdoor lighting (they love Christmas lights) one sub is for the kitchen and surrounding areas 120v loads, and one sub is for upper level 120v loads. The two Hoffman boxes have the contactors for the outdoor lights, soffit Christmas light plugs, and landscape lighting. And before someone yells about the 4" square without a cover, that's where the heat sink for those kitchen cans lighting controls will be.


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## MaxH (Mar 12, 2014)

Your kitchen looks really nice and the electrical wiring is just perfect!!!


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

T&K said:


> View attachment 35016
> 
> 
> Almost complete. All that is left is the over cabinet lights. The best I can remember, we have about 70 hours labor in the kitchen lighting and power.



Nice Job.


Are those led cans?


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

HARRY304E said:


> Nice Job.
> 
> Are those led cans?


Thanks, I'm pretty proud of it. The cans are a low voltage can. 120v was ran to each can, but it has a 120-12v transformer. There are 32 of them with 35 watt bulbs. This can was chosen specifically for the trim. The homeowner had a picture out of a magazine of what she wanted, and this is the can/trim combo that was selected. I roughed this house in just over a year ago, and it's finally coming together. I'll be posting more pics soon.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

What are you using for lighting control?


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## ablyss (Feb 8, 2014)

Houston we have lift off!


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## ablyss (Feb 8, 2014)

T&K said:


> Everything in this house is big, even the mechanical rooms for once. This is one of the two. It's on the upper level just above the kitchen. One sub is for outdoor lighting (they love Christmas lights) one sub is for the kitchen and surrounding areas 120v loads, and one sub is for upper level 120v loads. The two Hoffman boxes have the contactors for the outdoor lights, soffit Christmas light plugs, and landscape lighting. And before someone yells about the 4" square without a cover, that's where the heat sink for those kitchen cans lighting controls will be.
> 
> View attachment 35017


Y'all normally run all branch circuits before running feeder?


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

Looks like some serious measure stick time, and/or laser T&K...


~CS~


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

ablyss said:


> Y'all normally run all branch circuits before running feeder?


The feeders are there, just hard to see. These are 125a MLO panels. We ran 6/3w/g to them and put them on 60's. Way more economical than running 3/3w/g. Plus it allowed us to separate the circuits into different sections of the house.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

chicken steve said:


> Looks like some serious measure stick time, and/or laser T&K...
> 
> ~CS~


You're exactly right CS. We went old school. Measuring tape, and strings, and left the strings up after the install was done so if anyone bumped a can, they could see where it needed to be. So many together like that made the string method easier anyways. 32 measurements for 16 strings for 32 cans. Didn't have to worry after you made it up if you had moved it any either. I'll see if I can dig up a rough in pic.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

wendon said:


> What are you using for lighting control?


I was going to use a remote dimming module by lutron, but since that post she has decided that she doesn't need a dimmer. I think the $450 price tag may have aided in that, however, the amount of light in that kitchen (20'x20') is not overpowering from those cans, and with 4 different types of light to turn on (over cabinet, under cabinet, island, and these cans) you can basically get whatever light level you want anyways.

Edit: the remote dimming module was made by synergy lighting controls. There wasn't an actual "remote" (when I read my post I thought it sounded as if you would use a remote) This device took the signal from any style dimmer suitable for dimming incandescent lamps, and output to the fixture, so there was no load on the actual dimmer itself.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

:wallbash::wallbash::wallbash:She is going to regret those MR16's in about a year if they are not LEDs. Then when you put in the LEDs the light level will drop even more.


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## Maximumbob (May 24, 2013)

Nice work:thumbsup: What's going in the media panel?


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

T&K said:


> You're exactly right CS. We went old school. Measuring tape, and strings, and left the strings up after the install was done so if anyone bumped a can, they could see where it needed to be. So many together like that made the string method easier anyways. 32 measurements for 16 strings for 32 cans. Didn't have to worry after you made it up if you had moved it any either. I'll see if I can dig up a rough in pic.


:thumbsup:


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## ablyss (Feb 8, 2014)

Reminds me a little of a job we did years ago.


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## mando324 (Jun 13, 2013)

ablyss said:


> Reminds me a little of a job we did years ago.


Why not use 6inch cans?


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

That romex looks horrible. You could have installed that a lot neater.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

MTW said:


> That romex looks horrible. You could have installed that a lot neater.


Such negativity. Sad


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

T&K said:


> View attachment 35016
> 
> 
> Almost complete. All that is left is the over cabinet lights. The best I can remember, we have about 70 hours labor in the kitchen lighting and power.


That really is a sweet looking lid.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

MTW said:


> That romex looks horrible. You could have installed that a lot neater.


Cl"ass"ic. I expected that from your caliber.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

T&K said:


> I was going to use a remote dimming module by lutron, but since that post she has decided that she doesn't need a dimmer. I think the $450 price tag may have aided in that, however, the amount of light in that kitchen (20'x20') is not overpowering from those cans, and with 4 different types of light to turn on (over cabinet, under cabinet, island, and these cans) you can basically get whatever light level you want anyways.
> 
> Edit: the remote dimming module was made by synergy lighting controls. There wasn't an actual "remote" (when I read my post I thought it sounded as if you would use a remote) This device took the signal from any style dimmer suitable for dimming incandescent lamps, and output to the fixture, so there was no load on the actual dimmer itself.


I see. I'm doing a whole house right now and most of it will be Lutron Radio RA2. Crazy HO with too much money! 8 separate switches in the master bath alone! The worst thing with can lights is trying to get a symmetrical pattern with all the floor joists etc. in the way!


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

T&K said:


> Cl"ass"ic. I expected that from your caliber.


You mean the truth? A few bundles of romex ty-rapped together is hack work, plain and simple.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

MTW said:


> You mean the truth? A few bundles of romex ty-rapped together is hack work, plain and simple.


More negativity. Kinda sad.
Someday you will learn.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

sbrn33 said:


> More negativity. Kinda sad.
> Someday you will learn.


Secretly you agree with me.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

MTW said:


> You mean the truth? A few bundles of romex ty-rapped together is hack work, plain and simple.


Let's see pics of your work, Machine Tool Wire/Rewire/Peter D/ Cletis!:laughing:


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

wendon said:


> Let's see pics of your work, Machine Tool Wire/Rewire/Peter D/ Cletis!:laughing:


With emphasis on the word tool


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

There is a reason I don't post photos of my work here, no matter how good I think it looks.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

MTW said:


> You mean the truth? A few bundles of romex ty-rapped together is hack work, plain and simple.


Please explain, o wise one, what I could have done to suit you better. I'm all for being told my work looks like crap, even by someone who never posts pictures of his own work, and who evidently shops in the HD plumbing department, (judging by a particular thread started by you). But if you judge, i would also expect a valid response as a remedy for my terrible craftsmanship. And even though all you do is spew negativity (also judging by other threads and posts by you, which leads me to believe a whole lot more hilarious things about you and your personal life) I'm willing to accept this critique, and learn from it.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

And I'm still waiting for your reply MTW...


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

T&K said:


> And I'm still waiting for your reply MTW...


How about spending 10 minutes to staple the wires neatly before entering the panel? It looks like an apprentice put that together.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

MTW said:


> How about spending 10 minutes to staple the wires neatly before entering the panel? It looks like an apprentice put that together.


Zoom in on the pics punkin and you'll see the staples, and the zip ties...


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

MTW said:


> How about spending 10 minutes to staple the wires neatly before entering the panel? It looks like an apprentice put that together.


You would have no idea where to begin on a job this size, or any other for that matter...unless someone was telling you where and what and how. I, pipe runner, and everyone else smell you, and your Home Depot prowess, and it's frankly comical.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

T&K said:


> Zoom in on the pics punkin and you'll see the staples, and the zip ties...


I don't need to zoom in. I can tell it's sloppy just the way it is. 



T&K said:


> You would have no idea where to begin on a job this size, or any other for that matter...unless someone was telling you where and what and how. I, pipe runner, and everyone else smell you, and your Home Depot prowess, and it's frankly comical.


Ouch. You got me.


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## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

T&K said:


> You would have no idea where to begin on a job this size, or any other for that matter...unless someone was telling you where and what and how. I, pipe runner, and everyone else smell you, and your Home Depot prowess, and it's frankly comical.


 yea give it up mtw, your covers blown:thumbsup:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Next72969 said:


> yea give it up mtw, your covers blown:thumbsup:


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## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

MTW said:


>


 :sleep1:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Next72969 said:


> :sleep1:


Is that your work in the pictures? :whistling2:


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## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

MTW said:


> Is that your work in the pictures? :whistling2:


yes, i did the drywall :yawn:


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## B-ri (Dec 11, 2013)

Beautiful job


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

T&K said:


> View attachment 35016
> 
> 
> Almost complete. All that is left is the over cabinet lights. The best I can remember, we have about 70 hours labor in the kitchen lighting and power.


70 hours, not bad at all.


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

T&K said:


> Cl"ass"ic. I expected that from your caliber.


Someone told him that the electrics won't run straight unless your wire is straight , that's a beautiful job and you are a credit to the industry


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

how did the project come out for you economically?


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

Lep said:


> how did the project come out for you economically?


I haven't run the numbers on it in a loooong time, and we roughed it in about a year ago, but I'm fixing to soon as we are scheduled to complete the job Wednesday of next week. It should turn out well, it was an estimated job, not low bid, so it should be worth the time, effort, and headache. I keep up with my time on every job I do that lasts more than a day so I can get a real good idea of my profit per hour, so I too am anxious to see how it turned out. I'm the type that "don't count my money, while I'm sitting at the table" there's time enough for counting when the dealing's done". I'll let ya know.


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## Oklahoma sparky (Jul 12, 2011)

T&K said:


> Please explain, o wise one, what I could have done to suit you better. I'm all for being told my work looks like crap, even by someone who never posts pictures of his own work, and who evidently shops in the HD plumbing department, (judging by a particular thread started by you). But if you judge, i would also expect a valid response as a remedy for my terrible craftsmanship. And even though all you do is spew negativity (also judging by other threads and posts by you, which leads me to believe a whole lot more hilarious things about you and your personal life) I'm willing to accept this critique, and learn from it.


I have a very harsh critique of the "work". On my phone the pic is blurry. Haha


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## Oklahoma sparky (Jul 12, 2011)

Forgot to say it looks real good. Nice job


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

T&K said:


> The feeders are there, just hard to see. These are 125a MLO panels. We ran 6/3w/g to them and put them on 60's. Way more economical than running 3/3w/g. Plus it allowed us to separate the circuits into different sections of the house.


I don't agree with putting them on 60's rather than 100 amp feeders "to save Money." Especially the kitchen sub panel.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

bobelectric said:


> I don't agree with putting them on 60's rather than 100 amp feeders "to save Money." Especially the kitchen sub panel.


why? Only 120v loads are in them. This is a house, not a commercial kitchen. 60a/240v sub is overkill for a dishwasher, garbage disposal, 2 fridges, microwave, ice machine, range hood, and small appliance countertop circuits.


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## JHarris42 (Mar 23, 2014)

Lol! The ol' string on the can trick... That's classic. Looks good to me. Do you do rec rooms?


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## JBrzoz00 (Nov 17, 2013)

I always do strings, takes some time but I think it lays out a lot easier.


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## BryanB (Feb 15, 2014)

Panel looks good to me. I have been told many times if it looks good you spent to long, that's what the cover is for.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

Broke out the strings on the hunting lodge... Who needs a laser when you got masons twine???


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

T&K said:


> why? Only 120v loads are in them. This is a house, not a commercial kitchen. 60a/240v sub is overkill for a dishwasher, garbage disposal, 2 fridges, microwave, ice machine, range hood, and small appliance countertop circuits.


Isn't 2-2-2-4 SER cheaper than 6-3 romex?

Kitchen looks pretty good, fella.


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## T&K (Jun 18, 2012)

Going_Commando said:


> Isn't 2-2-2-4 SER cheaper than 6-3 romex?
> 
> .


I'm not sure. There hasn't been a reel of that in the supply houses here in 15+ years. I'm currently paying 1.69/ft of 6/3 w/g. The only thing aluminum gets used in this area for, other than the poco, is direct burial mobile home circuits, and center pivot irrigation systems. I know it's still used many other places, but if you were to drag a piece of that into a big custom house, or any other house for that matter, you would probably be asked to leave. Aluminum is complete taboo around here.


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