# Best LED Tape/ Strip Lights



## Ledelco

I've experimented with various LED strips and manufacturers for 2 years till I finally found a source that I like both in terms of price and quality.

I can pay $15 for a cheap roll and its just that. Cheap. LEDs start to go out immediately or after a few months. Or they are DOA. They are also dim in comparison to the quality ones and the colour and light quality is crap. Cool white ends up being bluish or purple. Not white. Warm white is reddish or greenish. They can also end up running very hot which will prematurely cause LED failure. Or the LED chips fall off the PCB.

I'm paying about $90.00 for rolls with 60 LEDs per meter and very high output. Also very stable and run cool. This is important for long life. $250 a roll is someones ******** mark up.

Not only is the quality and price of the strips important, but so is the compatibility and quality of the the other components you need like power supplies, controllers, dimmers etc.

Not all the components are inter-compatible. Constant voltage vs constant current, 1-10v dimming vs PWM, and all that. 

Plus there is there are the certification issues. Of which the cheap stuff will have none. CEC requires the power supply to have certification but anything on the load side of it is fine.

There are also the other accessories you will need. Clips, connectors, PWM dimmers, colour controllers for RGB. Its a bit of a minefield out there.

If you want more details, let me know. I sell and install a few thousand feet of this stuff a year.


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## dr electron

Ledelco said:


> I've experimented with various LED strips and manufacturers for 2 years till I finally found a source that I like both in terms of price and quality.
> 
> I can pay $15 for a cheap roll and its just that. Cheap. LEDs start to go out immediately or after a few months. Or they are DOA. They are also dim in comparison to the quality ones and the colour and light quality is crap. Cool white ends up being bluish or purple. Not white. Warm white is reddish or greenish. They can also end up running very hot which will prematurely cause LED failure. Or the LED chips fall off the PCB.
> 
> I'm paying about $90.00 for rolls with 60 LEDs per meter and very high output. Also very stable and run cool. This is important for long life. $250 a roll is someones ******** mark up.
> 
> Not only is the quality and price of the strips important, but so is the compatibility and quality of the the other components you need like power supplies, controllers, dimmers etc.
> 
> Not all the components are inter-compatible. Constant voltage vs constant current, 1-10v dimming vs PWM, and all that.
> 
> Plus there is there are the certification issues. Of which the cheap stuff will have none. CEC requires the power supply to have certification but anything on the load side of it is fine.
> 
> There are also the other accessories you will need. Clips, connectors, PWM dimmers, colour controllers for RGB. Its a bit of a minefield out there.
> 
> If you want more details, let me know. I sell and install a few thousand feet of this stuff a year.


Please. I'm trying to put together a package that's affordable but will also last . As this is my first attempt at these lights any experienced information/ insight would be helpful.


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## Ledelco

How many linear feet do you need to complete the job? This will determine the size of the power supply needed.

Did you want to wire the power supply to a wall switch or just plug it in?

Did you want the strips to be dimmable? 

There are a lot of issues trying to dim these strips with wall dimmers. First problem is the large majority of the strips are PWM (pulse width modulation), so it needs a special dimmer and its uncommon to find it in a wall dimmer. There are small inline wireless dimmers that do the job simply and inexpensively. You get a little keychain remote that can control them. 

Typical kitchen install for me is like this.

Determine location of power supply. Will it be switched or plugged in? I usually opt to wire it to a wall switch. Plug in is for retrofits where customers don't want to rewire.

Determine whether a dimmer is needed. It goes on the output side of the power supply. The dimmer remembers the last setting so when the switch is turned on it will resume that setting.

Run 18/2 from the dimmer/power supply to the start of the strips. If there are multiple locations wire them accordingly. Most kitchens are broken up into segments. if you can run the wire before the cabinets go up it will make the job easier and neater. If not, you have to do it the hard way and run wires from the end of the strip to the beginning of the next. usually by trying to hide them inside the cabinets.

Most of these strips are cuttable every 3 LEDs. On the ones that I use it means you can cut them to within an inch of the size of the cabinet. Makes for a nice even light. Way better than pucks or fixtures. The strips have cut marks with solder spots on either side of the cut to join segments or add tails. 

There are solderless clips but they generally suck. Get out the solder gun and do it the right way. Hot glue over the solder connection. I use waterproof strips in kitchens because of moisture and splash possibility. Makes it easier to clean.

Most of the strips have an adhesive strip. Remember they are usually from china usually it falls off after a while. There are silicone clips that can hold the strips up so use one every foot or so and you'll have no issues. I order my strips without adhesive and apply 3M YHB Acrylic tape. Once it cures you'll need a scraper to get them off.

If you want to PM me your email I can send you pics on what they look like when finished. I have no idea how to post pics here. 

Based on the average kitchen of 16-20 linear feet of under cabinet my material cost ends up being about $200 or so with strips, power supply and dimmer. If done right with the good stuff they'll have lighting that can last decades.


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## dr electron

Ledelco said:


> How many linear feet do you need to complete the job? This will determine the size of the power supply needed.
> 
> Did you want to wire the power supply to a wall switch or just plug it in?
> 
> Did you want the strips to be dimmable?
> 
> There are a lot of issues trying to dim these strips with wall dimmers. First problem is the large majority of the strips are PWM (pulse width modulation), so it needs a special dimmer and its uncommon to find it in a wall dimmer. There are small inline wireless dimmers that do the job simply and inexpensively. You get a little keychain remote that can control them.
> 
> Typical kitchen install for me is like this.
> 
> Determine location of power supply. Will it be switched or plugged in? I usually opt to wire it to a wall switch. Plug in is for retrofits where customers don't want to rewire.
> 
> Determine whether a dimmer is needed. It goes on the output side of the power supply. The dimmer remembers the last setting so when the switch is turned on it will resume that setting.
> 
> Run 18/2 from the dimmer/power supply to the start of the strips. If there are multiple locations wire them accordingly. Most kitchens are broken up into segments. if you can run the wire before the cabinets go up it will make the job easier and neater. If not, you have to do it the hard way and run wires from the end of the strip to the beginning of the next. usually by trying to hide them inside the cabinets.
> 
> Most of these strips are cuttable every 3 LEDs. On the ones that I use it means you can cut them to within an inch of the size of the cabinet. Makes for a nice even light. Way better than pucks or fixtures. The strips have cut marks with solder spots on either side of the cut to join segments or add tails.
> 
> There are solderless clips but they generally suck. Get out the solder gun and do it the right way. Hot glue over the solder connection. I use waterproof strips in kitchens because of moisture and splash possibility. Makes it easier to clean.
> 
> Most of the strips have an adhesive strip. Remember they are usually from china usually it falls off after a while. There are silicone clips that can hold the strips up so use one every foot or so and you'll have no issues. I order my strips without adhesive and apply 3M YHB Acrylic tape. Once it cures you'll need a scraper to get them off.
> 
> If you want to PM me your email I can send you pics on what they look like when finished. I have no idea how to post pics here.
> 
> Based on the average kitchen of 16-20 linear feet of under cabinet my material cost ends up being about $200 or so with strips, power supply and dimmer. If done right with the good stuff they'll have lighting that can last decades.


Thanks Ledelco. I think I found exactly what I've been looking for. They are assembled in the US, UL listed, 5 year warranty, waterproof, and between $50 and $70 a roll depending on the # of rolls.


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## niteshift

Ledelco, post some install pics.


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## Ledelco

Dr Electron, would you mind sending or posting a link? If I've not tried them before I am always looking for new suppliers. The prices seem a little low for the good stuff but you never know.


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## Ledelco

Niteshift I am going to try and paste the code from my flicker account and see if it works.


20121011_171554 by Ledelco, on Flickr


20121011_164309 by Ledelco, on Flickr


Perfect. It works. 

I am in the middle of this condo install now. It will be 100% LED when finished. Pot lights, puck lights, strips, everything.


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## Ledelco

Here are a few others. Same product, different applications.


capitol1 by Ledelco, on Flickr



20121019_192433 by Ledelco, on Flickr



LED Bar 2 by Ledelco, on Flickr



Photo385 by Ledelco, on Flickr



Photo240 by Ledelco, on Flickr


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## MrsElectric

Haven't installed this stuff yet.

I would like to know which brands you guys have had sucess with.

Local supply house wants $450 a roll!


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## sbrn33

Has anybody tried the led stuff from econolight? Seems decent and its Cree led's. I might order some and give it a shot.


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## Ledelco

MrsElectric said:


> Haven't installed this stuff yet.
> 
> I would like to know which brands you guys have had sucess with.
> 
> Local supply house wants $450 a roll!



Do you have any specs on that? Length, type, and number of LEDs?

Seems grossly expensive for the typical lengths it is usually sold in.

The strips I use I buy direct from china. I can have them made with different colours, types of casings, number of LEDs per meter and so on. Reasonably priced and good quality. There are a variety of accessories like dimmers, controllers and power supplies ranging from 30 to 1000 watt in 12 or 24 volt.

I've tried strips from dozens of manufacturers ranging from $15 a roll to $100s. I'm very happy with these ones. Some are ridiculously priced for the quality level.


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## dr electron

Ledelco said:


> Dr Electron, would you mind sending or posting a link? If I've not tried them before I am always looking for new suppliers. The prices seem a little low for the good stuff but you never know.


http://www.ecologicsavings.com/led-flexible-flat-strips/

I called their support # and a PERSON answered who actually knew something about their products! That gives them at least one thumb up out of the gate!


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## MrsElectric

The brand was Nova @ $450/roll, it was weatherproof
The sample they gave us lights up my husbands kayak well, 12v DC off the fish finder

I dont remember any other info (think I stopped listening after I heard the price)
Even our buddy at the counter said check online for much better pricing


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## Cletis

*leds*

i've used these guys. Havent had a problem yet..

http://www.superbrightleds.com/


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## mbednarik

sbrn33 said:


> Has anybody tried the led stuff from econolight? Seems decent and its Cree led's. I might order some and give it a shot.


I have used it and have not had any problems to date. I like it, customers like it. Econolight is pretty good about keeping material in stock.


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## StuartM

recently did a night club install with the 5050 smd tape, 25 meters in total length with 4 signal repeaters.


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## mrmccormick77

Ledelco said:


> I've experimented with various LED strips and manufacturers for 2 years till I finally found a source that I like both in terms of price and quality.
> 
> I can pay $15 for a cheap roll and its just that. Cheap. LEDs start to go out immediately or after a few months. Or they are DOA. They are also dim in comparison to the quality ones and the colour and light quality is crap. Cool white ends up being bluish or purple. Not white. Warm white is reddish or greenish. They can also end up running very hot which will prematurely cause LED failure. Or the LED chips fall off the PCB.
> 
> I'm paying about $90.00 for rolls with 60 LEDs per meter and very high output. Also very stable and run cool. This is important for long life. $250 a roll is someones ******** mark up.
> 
> Not only is the quality and price of the strips important, but so is the compatibility and quality of the the other components you need like power supplies, controllers, dimmers etc.
> 
> Not all the components are inter-compatible. Constant voltage vs constant current, 1-10v dimming vs PWM, and all that.
> 
> Plus there is there are the certification issues. Of which the cheap stuff will have none. CEC requires the power supply to have certification but anything on the load side of it is fine.
> 
> There are also the other accessories you will need. Clips, connectors, PWM dimmers, colour controllers for RGB. Its a bit of a minefield out there.
> 
> If you want more details, let me know. I sell and install a few thousand feet of this stuff a year.


HI, I'm brand new to LED's. I have notice all the different kinds and prices. I liked your post and wanted to know what manufacturer and distributor that you use for quality LED's and their components? Thanks you for the help


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## chicken steve

LED reviews

~CS~


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## johnsmithh134

I have an experimented the various type of LED strips and manufacturers from last 2 years . On the basis of it, I finally found a source that I like both in terms of price and quality.I can pay $14 for a cheap roll. LED starts to go out immediately or after a few months. They are also dim in comparison to the quality ones and the color and light quality is crap. Cool white ends up being bluish or purple. Not white. Warm white is reddish or greenish. They can also end up running very hot which will prematurely cause LED failure. Or the LED chips fall off the PCB.


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