# Anyone hear of smartcool?



## That's It? (Aug 31, 2011)

Are there fail safes built into this thing to prevent compressor failure?


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

I'm smartcool.


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

It's mandatory to install a 5A (250VAC) glass inline fuse. The system is supposed to be passive.

Quote from manual

"within the control circuit, there is a number of safety switches to ensure the system is operating properly and prevent damage to equipment such as compressors. The smartcool system should be wired before these safety circuits to ensure they continue to operate as expected."


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

Another quote, too lazy to type it...


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## That's It? (Aug 31, 2011)

How old is the system you're installing it into?


erics37 said:


> I'm smartcool.


 I'll give you one and a half stars for that joke eric. Has it been along weekend or something?


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## cbruce (Dec 5, 2011)

*Installed lots of these*

The Smartcool ECO3 is pretty popular down here in South Florida, I've installed over a thousand single and dual stage units on everything from rooftops, heat pumps, pool heaters, residential splits, and refrigeration.

There is a new installation manual released in October. I'd be happy to send anyone a copy.

The best size for the fuse is actually about 1 amp, auto blade fuses work very well and are available in 3 amp sizes. You don't need a fuse carrier, just a couple of spade female crimps and some tape. 

In the rooftops, if the control input is typical front end 24 volt Y1/Y2 type then you should have no problem. If it is something oddball like current loops, 5 volt, or digital then you will need to switch to back end control between the processor board and the contactor. There are some tricks to that installation which I'd be happy to impart. If it is a Trane with back end control then absolutely call me at 561-308-0595.

Back voltage- sometimes the thermostat bleeds through a voltage with no amperage, that is called a back voltage and causes the Eco3 to read too high on the save hours. Anytime the save hours are higher than the run hours, this is a back voltage problem. To avoid, always install a drain resistor--then you don't have to screw with the measurement method(ask though, and yee shall recieve). Pick up a 5 pack of 10k ohm resistors (1/4 watt) at Radio Shack for about $1.25. Wire one between the Y1 and common, and the Y2 and common. Do not wire inside the Eco3, anywhere else is fine. Be sure to tape them to prevent shorts. These will drain the excess voltage whenever present. If one should fail, it will not affect the operation of the air conditioner.

Disclaimer: After installing Smartcools down here for 2 1/2 years, last month Smartcool hired me as a technical consultant to try and improve the support function. I also handle warranties. So I get paid for this.

Bruce Kemp


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## cbruce (Dec 5, 2011)

Reply to "That's It" - Are there fail safes built into this thing to prevent compressor failure? 

The Eco3 is software limited to no more than 6 starts per hour, digital thermostats are capped at 8-10. The minimum run cycle is 6 minutes. It is designed to prevent short cycling of the compressor in addition to the primary function of reducing run time (while maintaining temperature setting) up to 50% max.
The Smartcool is also designed to fail-safe. Should this happen it simply returns compressor control to the thermostat. 

Bruce


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks Bruce for all the info :thumbsup:

I got a 3 amp fuse but had to order a stepdown transformer to get 24VAC so I will be doing the install later this week. I was told I may have many more in the Philly area in the near future.


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