# Bought an old, used, knock out set....



## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

You must 'Work' for the good stuff. Channel locks! 1 size fits all.

For another $40, you could have bought new. everything comes with a price.

Work it-earn it-then sell it.:thumbup:


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## Greenie (Jan 18, 2009)

I worked for the money to buy the tools. If that isn't good enough for you, you can piss off.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

Greenie said:


> I worked for the money to buy the tools. If that isn't good enough for you, you can piss off.



Wow! your sensitive (you may want to lose that)! I meant no harm. 
I'm glad you got it.
Now you know where we all start, you buy what you can afford,let it make you money and then buy the tools that work for you.
Everything sucks when your starting out.
It's called a 'Right of passage'.

Now Piss off your self!:thumbup: 
Welcome! And enjoy the forums.


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## sparkyboys (May 3, 2009)

you must not have looked at it. just gave the money up and dipped. use a crescent. no biggie

dont buy tools unless you absolutely have to.


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

What you need is an 8 point socket. Craftsman has them in all different sizes and drive sizes. Around $5.00


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## Lz_69 (Nov 1, 2007)

I would just pick up a new draw stud if it bothers you but a standard 1" wrench or a 12 pt. socket/ratcheting wrench will work on it, but If you need to use a socket/ratcheting wrench you have to use one two sizes smaller aka. 7/8" for the 1" head on your KO set.


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

I believe the one greenie is talking about, is this drawstud:


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Greenie said:


> I got a really good deal. There's just one thing that's confusing me...
> 
> It's a very old set. My draw stud for half inch has a square head, not a six sided head like the larger draw stud.
> 
> ...


 
A 12 point socket or ratcheting box wrench will turn it just as well as a square drive or adjustable. Most 1/2" k.o.s have the square stud.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Yeah I have a 1/2 with a square. I just use a cresent wrench... no big deal.

~Matt


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

TOOL_5150 said:


> Yeah I have a 1/2 with a square. I just use a cresent wrench... no big deal.


Yup, me too. I use a small Knipex PliersWrench.


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## BDB (Jul 9, 2008)

Greenie said:


> I worked for the money to buy the tools. If that isn't good enough for you, you can piss off.


WOW, that is a great attitude for your 3rd post on a forum, make lots of friends.:blink:


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

knowshorts said:


> I believe the one greenie is talking about, is this drawstud:


Where's the hydraulic pump for those??!?!?!?!?


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

you can sharpen the dull cutters by running the cup on a belt sander or a file. dont sharpen the die the cup is what gets sharpened


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

1900 said:


> Where's the hydraulic pump for those??!?!?!?!?


There is a smaller shaft that gets screws into the end of the large draw shaft. 
I have to say though, using this will put you in the lame corner for several minutes. :laughing::whistling2:


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

i love using these tools. anyone ever use the manual 4 inch punch?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

electricalperson said:


> i love using these tools. anyone ever use the manual 4 inch punch?


I've cut 3 or 4" knockouts with just the punch and a 10" Crescent wrench. The can has to be mounted very firmly or you'll spin the can with the amount of pressure you need to put on the wrench. I remember very clearly ripping one off the wall once. I can't remember even why I was turning it by hand. Probably obstructions.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> I've cut 3 or 4" knockouts with just the punch and a 10" Crescent wrench. The can has to be mounted very firmly or you'll spin the can with the amount of pressure you need to put on the wrench. I remember very clearly ripping one off the wall once. I can't remember even why I was turning it by hand. Probably obstructions.


 we have an old one at work i dont even know where to find them anymore. i think i seen it in the GB catalog


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## mattsilkwood (Sep 21, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> I've cut 3 or 4" knockouts with just the punch and a 10" Crescent wrench. The can has to be mounted very firmly or you'll spin the can with the amount of pressure you need to put on the wrench. I remember very clearly ripping one off the wall once. I can't remember even why I was turning it by hand. Probably obstructions.


 i would have liked to saw the look on your face. priceless


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

I've been looking into getting a hydraulic set, but have'nt made my mind up yet though. Except for CT cabinets, I rarely need bigger than a 2'', so I'm looking into a 1/2"-2" set. Any suggestions?


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> I've cut 3 or 4" knockouts with just the punch and a 10" Crescent wrench. The can has to be mounted very firmly or you'll spin the can with the amount of pressure you need to put on the wrench. I remember very clearly ripping one off the wall once. I can't remember even why I was turning it by hand. Probably obstructions.


I am guessing a hole saw wouldnt have worked in that situation? Thats an aweful lot of force for a 10" cresent!

~Matt


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

Kevin J said:


> I've been looking into getting a hydraulic set, but have'nt made my mind up yet though. Except for CT cabinets, I rarely need bigger than a 2'', so I'm looking into a 1/2"-2" set. Any suggestions?


 Go for the Maxis drill power knock-out set.

We've been using it for about 6 months, it truly is amazing. I can't tell you how fast and easy it is, no strain, no oil dripping out, no trying to pump it in odd positions. Just use your drill, even our 14.4V Dewalt works well on thick steel boxes.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

I can not remember the last time I used a 1/2" punch. 

By the time you drill the hole and find your wrench I will be done and on the the next task.


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

Bob Badger said:


> I can not remember the last time I used a 1/2" punch.
> 
> By the time you drill the hole and find your wrench I will be done and on the the next task.


I just got myself a 1 3/8" Greenlee Unitbit and love that too. I like the fact that I can open 1/2" holes to 3/4". Unitbits are fast and simple, just make sure not to go too fast or you'll make too big of a hole.


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## acmax (Apr 20, 2009)

1900 said:


> I just got myself a 1 3/8" Greenlee Unitbit and love that too. I like the fact that I can open 1/2" holes to 3/4". Unitbits are fast and simple, just make sure not to go too fast or you'll make too big of a hole.


 
*removed*


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

1900 said:


> Unitbits are fast and simple, just make sure not to go too fast or you'll make too big of a hole.


That is why I have three of them, I don't have to be careful.

VB-7 for 1/2"

VB-11 for 3/4" 

and I think it is the VB -12 for 1".

I made more then 70 1/2" KOs in a trough in just a few minutes using the VB-7, a hole hog on low, most of my body weight and a bucket of snow to cool the bit between holes.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

1900 said:


> I just got myself a 1 3/8" Greenlee Unitbit and love that too. I like the fact that I can open 1/2" holes to 3/4". Unitbits are fast and simple, just make sure not to go too fast or you'll make too big of a hole.


 
Biggest problem is those chips flying around, you sure can't use them over breakers or relays in a live panel.


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

acmax said:


> *REMOVED*


No need to be rude, just a helpful suggestion.


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Biggest problem is those chips flying around, you sure can't use them over breakers or relays in a live panel.



That would be my point with needing a 1/2" or 3/4'' knock-out sometimes. I use Uni-bits mostly, but sometimes it aint a good idea.


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

SpeedyPetey took care of it.


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Biggest problem is those chips flying around, you sure can't use them over breakers or relays in a live panel.


Not that many more chips than the holesaw would produce when drilling a hole to put the KO punch thru. Cardboard is your friend  If I were Mr. Goody2shoes I would say not to drill in a hot panel, but we all live in the real world :thumbsup:


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

Bob Badger said:


> ~I made more then 70 1/2" KOs in a trough~


That's another thing that I love about unibits, other than the pilot tip, they don't get dull for a long time, they keep on cuttings. After a while the pilot tip gets dull, but I just use a 1/4" pilot bit to make a hole, then the unibit.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Biggest problem is those chips flying around, you sure can't use them over breakers or relays in a live panel.


No doubt, but unless you have Hydraulic "C" punch you will be doing some drilling, so on the chance there might be live parts around cardboard is needed anyway.


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## raider1 (Jan 22, 2007)

1900 said:


> That's another thing that I love about unibits, other than the pilot tip, they don't get dull for a long time, they keep on cuttings. After a while the pilot tip gets dull, but I just use a 1/4" pilot bit to make a hole, then the unibit.


I tend to agree with you unless you lend your unibit to an apprentice and forget to ask what they are drilling.

(Unibits don't last long when drilling stainless steel control panels)

Chris


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

Stainless? Them high dollar carbide tips are expensive, but cheap in the time that they save!


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Bob Badger said:


> I made more then 70 1/2" KOs in a trough in just a few minutes using the VB-7, a hole hog on low, *most of my body weight* and a bucket of snow to cool the bit between holes.


I didn't know a trough was capable of supporting tonnage. :laughing: :laughing: :jester:


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## raider1 (Jan 22, 2007)

Rockyd said:


> Stainless? Them high dollar carbide tips are expensive, but cheap in the time that they save!


I agree, but my unibit wasn't carbide tipped, so it dulled pretty fast.

Chris


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

Peter D said:


> I didn't know a trough was capable of supporting tonnage.


It does if you leave the cover screwed on. 

But between the hole hogs power and some heavy pressure it was making almost one large shaving from each hole  of course these where smoking hot and melted into the tread of my boots.


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## raider1 (Jan 22, 2007)

If I am drilling multiple pilot holes, or 1/2" KO's I will usually use this...

Using cutting oil really extends the life and sharpness of a drill bit.

Chris


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## sparkyboys (May 3, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Biggest problem is those chips flying around, you sure can't use them over breakers or relays in a live panel.


thats why you put a piece of cardboard up in the top of the panel to catch the slivers


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

raider1 said:


> If I am drilling multiple pilot holes, or 1/2" KO's I will usually use this...
> 
> Using cutting oil really extends the life and sharpness of a drill bit.
> 
> Chris


That is great stuff, there is one for steel and one for aluminum.

If you can get your hands on Kroil do so, it is the best penetrating oil I have worked with. The warnings are bit scary and I try not to get it on my skin but it does work great.


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## sparkyboys (May 3, 2009)

raider1 said:


> I tend to agree with you unless you lend your unibit to an apprentice and forget to ask what they are drilling.
> 
> (Unibits don't last long when drilling stainless steel control panels)
> 
> Chris


you can always use a gas gun with 1/2 nails to start a hole in the back. it works.


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

I've heard that milk works good when drilling stainless.


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Biggest problem is those chips flying around, you sure can't use them over breakers or relays in a live panel.


I use a 6" diameter magnet that is doughnut shaped. It catches all shavings.


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## paul d. (Jul 13, 2008)

one thing that seems to work on metal shavings is plastic( visqueen ) or synthetic rags. hot shavings stick to it. :thumbsup:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

knowshorts said:


> I use a 6" diameter magnet that is doughnut shaped. It catches all shavings.


I use a 4" speaker magnet wrapped in a plastic bag.


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## jsb (Apr 5, 2009)

i bought this from harbor freight. with the additional 2 1/2" and 3" i have $155 in the whole thing! i bought a second one. i have used them both several times and they seem to work great.


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## jsb (Apr 5, 2009)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96718

sorry i havnt figured out pictures yet, hopefully this gets you there


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

jsb said:


> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96718
> 
> sorry i havnt figured out pictures yet, hopefully this gets you there


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

That's a hell of a set for 69 bucks. I'm not sure how you could not at least try it. Particularly all the more a single electrician or a one-man shop is likely to use it.


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## jsb (Apr 5, 2009)

duh i didnt even read it before i said it. when i bought it it was $20 more! way worth it.


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## 1900 (May 4, 2009)

Hell, the hose alone for a Greenlee is probably $69.

BTW, what gauge steel is a typical 1900 box?


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

WOW at that price it's worth the price of admission just to try it out. Man, that's really a steal even if it's halfway decent. Hell a hand ratchet Greenlee set will run you $250 new. Up to 4'' hydraulic from Greenlee is around $1200.

At $70 you've gotta question the quality of it all but that's just dirt cheap.

That set would be perfect for a residential setting.


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

480sparky said:


> ​


I believe I have found a winner to try out!!!


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