# hollow wall anchors



## electric mike (Jun 15, 2009)

OK, what the heck is the difference here? I've used this tool http://www.mygreenlee.com/GreenleeD...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=02669

to set many an anchor in the core of CMU's. Works great, but pricey.


What is this set tool for? 
http://www.mygreenlee.com/GreenleeD...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=84299
Will it set in a hollow wall? I don't exactly get what they mean by a "caulking" anchor.

Any one know the difference?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I have used the ones with the punch.. but only in poured concrete..

IMO.. you are better off with lead shields.. if you use them in block.. put a couple runs of tape around the back of the anchor to keep it from going through the block wall..


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

electric mike said:


> OK, what the heck is the difference here? I've used this tool http://www.mygreenlee.com/GreenleeD...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=02669
> 
> to set many an anchor in the core of CMU's. Works great, but pricey.
> 
> ...


I like the first tool better and yes it cost more but works much better



> I don't exactly get what they mean by a "caulking" anchor.


When you hit the tool with the hammer that expands the anchor,. ("caulking" anchor.)


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

electric mike said:


> What is this set tool for?
> http://www.mygreenlee.com/GreenleeD...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=84299
> Will it set in a hollow wall? I don't exactly get what they mean by a "caulking" anchor.
> 
> Any one know the difference?


I like these in concrete when TapCons are not enough, which is rarely. 

They are nice 'cause they leave a machine thread and stay firmly in place. 

I believe they are called caulking anchors because the lead like material expands in the hole like caulk when you hit the tool into the anchor. Maybe?


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## electric mike (Jun 15, 2009)

Speedy Petey said:


> I like these in concrete when TapCons are not enough, which is rarely.
> 
> They are nice 'cause they leave a machine thread and stay firmly in place.
> 
> I believe they are called caulking anchors because the lead like material expands in the hole like caulk when you hit the tool into the anchor. Maybe?


Can you use them in a hole with no backing ? The first link I posted I know you can use in a hollow hole, I've used them before. I don't know if you can with the tool in the second link I posted


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

electric mike said:


> Can you use them in a hole with no backing ? The first link I posted I know you can use in a hollow hole, I've used them before. I don't know if you can with the tool in the second link I posted


No, you need a solid hole like drilled in solid concrete or the solid part of a CMU.

I like the first one you posted even in solid walls.
It keeps the anchor fluch to the surface.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Speedy Petey said:


> I like these in concrete when TapCons are not enough, which is rarely.
> 
> They are nice 'cause they leave a machine thread and stay firmly in place.
> 
> I believe they are called caulking anchors because the lead like material expands in the hole like caulk when you hit the tool into the anchor. Maybe?


That's it, just like a plumber caulking a soil line joint. However, I heard just the other day that the lead caulking anchors may not be approved for fire ratings. In extreme heat...such as fire, they could melt and cause subsequent injuries later by losing their hold.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

All I use is lead anchors, caulkin anchors, machine screw anchors. Which are the same. That is just 3 names that I have heard them called. BTW that second tool is junk I use a hollow wall set tool on all of the ones that I set .


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## st0mps (Aug 19, 2009)

on hollow walls or even hollow block just use toggle bolts with wings on them get them nice n tight 1/4 or 3/8


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

The first tool the depth of the hole is not important, so it works in hollow walls.
The second tool the hole depth must be drilled to the correct depth because the back of the hole cavity helps the expansion.
Any anchor should be chosen with care, read the book. Powers fasteners http://www.powers.com/ can be a valuable reference tool, it gives you shear rating and pull out ratings.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

I only use the hollow wall set. It works better IMO. I have only used the split shield a few times when I have run out of AJ's.
I also use it in poured concrete instead of quick bolts. This way when the equipment is removed you don't have the stud sticking up thru the floor or wall. 

My first hollow wall set lasted about 20 years. 

The only tip about them is you need to look at the outer shield. If it over hangs the inner one use your knife to quickly trim the lead back a tiny bit.

Up here we call the lead anchor's AJ's because Ackerman Johnson came out with them.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

electric mike said:


> OK, what the heck is the difference here? I've used this tool http://www.mygreenlee.com/GreenleeD...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=02669
> 
> to set many an anchor in the core of CMU's. Works great, but pricey.
> 
> ...


I would consider those to be obsolete due to the invention of the "sleeve anchor"


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

B4T said:


> I have used the ones with the punch.. but only in poured concrete..
> 
> IMO.. you are better off with lead shields.. if you use them in block.. put a couple runs of tape around the back of the anchor to keep it from going through the block wall..


I cant ever remember seeing an electrician using something like this. Carpenters, yes, electricians, no.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

If I'm hanging rod from a ceiling I'll use the bullet shaped anchors you have to set in other than that I use sleeve anchors in all situations except if I'm just using a screw and a plastic rawl plug and if I need to mount threaded road into a block wall I use some strut with sleeve anchors then use spring washers to affix the rod to that. That stuff posted looks like I've gone back in time :laughing:


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

electric mike said:


> OK, what the heck is the difference here? I've used this tool http://www.mygreenlee.com/GreenleeD...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=02669
> 
> to set many an anchor in the core of CMU's. Works great, but pricey.
> 
> ...


I have the 1/4" and 3/8" setters for the anchors in the first link. They work well in hollow block and solid material. I don't know why but they are called "AJs" around here.
I also like the Hilti Toggler for hollow block. You can remove the bolt without losing the toggle so it is re-usable in the wall. For heavy-duty anchoring in solid wall, floor or ceiling I like Redheads.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

The anchors in the first picture can be used with the tool in the 2nd picture. We call them "lead sets". I've never used the pin on those particular anchors, but I have used them on "drop-in" anchors, which are no good for hollow walls.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

amptech said:


> I have the 1/4" and 3/8" setters for the anchors in the first link. They work well in hollow block and solid material. I don't know why but they are called "AJs" around here.
> I also like the Hilti Toggler for hollow block. You can remove the bolt without losing the toggle so it is re-usable in the wall. For heavy-duty anchoring in solid wall, floor or ceiling I like Redheads.



BAM!

Up here we call the lead anchor's AJ's because Ackerman Johnson came out with them.


:thumbsup:


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

jrannis said:


> I cant ever remember seeing an electrician using something like this. Carpenters, yes, electricians, no.


Maybe it's a LI thing, I use them also.


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## jredwood301 (Feb 8, 2009)

these are the best imho!!:thumbsup:


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

I like to use these.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...H21TpOmAaGeiQLuhpFP&ved=0CJABEPUBMAo&dur=1545

with this tool

http://img1.fastenal.com/thumbnails/CaulkInAnchor Set Tools_603056_CatImg.jpg


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