# Is a hacksaw a hacksaw?



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

They all kind of seem the same to me. If I want a shiny new high tension one, should I just go with whichever looks the coolest? As long as it's sturdy I can't see a lot of room for innovation here.

If so, what is the coolest looking hacksaw? Bahco?


----------



## Forrester (Sep 5, 2010)

By far the best hacksaw you'll ever use:


----------



## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Yeah, after I bought a reciprocating saw, I haven't touched my hacksaw since.

I think mine was a Nicholson.


----------



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

I have the same hacksaw I bought a Sears for 20 years.

This looks like the newer model:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00936143000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1




,


----------



## s.kelly (Mar 20, 2009)

FWIW only new hacksaw I could find made anywhere but China or something like that was a real cheap one. Looks cheap compared to the new ones anyway. Made here in the US and given me lots of good service, but a few strange looks. Looks like hasbro got into the saw business, can't remember the brand. When someone makes fun of it I tell em to shut their cakehole and look where theirs was made.

One before that was probably 10 or 11 bucks at an antique store. Best saw I ever had, but I the blade tensioning nut, and cannot find a suitable replacement yet. Wooden handle and nice to use.


----------



## Forrester (Sep 5, 2010)

jrannis said:


> I have the same hacksaw I bought a Sears for 20 years.
> 
> This looks like the newer model:
> 
> ...


I have that model and I don't like it. I don't use it much, but when i do, I think it sucks. The handle could hardly fit my hand and I don't think it's high tension.


----------



## sparky723 (Jul 22, 2008)

The best manual hacksaw: LENOX


----------



## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Lenox makes a good hacksaw. I'll probably be getting another soon.


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Ever since I went to a cordless sawzall back in the mid 90s, I think I've used my hacksaw twice. Maybe 3 times.


----------



## bduerler (Oct 2, 2009)

Vintage Sounds said:


> They all kind of seem the same to me. If I want a shiny new high tension one, should I just go with whichever looks the coolest? As long as it's sturdy I can't see a lot of room for innovation here.
> 
> If so, what is the coolest looking hacksaw? Bahco?


Looks just like a Snap on. Oh wait it is because Bahco is owned by Snap On:thumbup:


----------



## user438 (Jun 6, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Ever since I went to a cordless sawzall back in the mid 90s, I think I've used my hacksaw twice. Maybe 3 times.


 
I agree, I mean seriously who still uses a "hack saw" I keep my old one on truck mainly to show helpers how it was back in the day


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

What the heck is a hack saw we use stuff like this;









I win, hack saw :no:


----------



## user438 (Jun 6, 2007)

Jlarson said:


> What the heck is a hack saw we use stuff like this;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
No doubt, I think my next pipe job I am gonna break out my hack saw just for tribute and to see how many people come up and ask me what kind of saw is that ?

Reminds me of the jobs I do at these Condo's in florida with the shufle board courts, got an estimate the other day to replace the shuffle board court lighting.... i told customer " you do realize that everybody that actually played this game is either dead or 90 years old and laying in bed ?


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Rich R said:


> No doubt, I think my next pipe job I am gonna break out my hack saw just for tribute and to see how many people come up and ask me what kind of saw is that ?


Someone asked me how you use a hack saw once. All I did was :no: and walk away.


----------



## millerdrr (Jun 26, 2009)

My first foreman lent a Brother to my brother; it later ended up in my hands. A few years later, he came back to work at the same company, so I gave it back to him. It was great, probably several decades old, but...hey, by then I had a Dewalt 18volt.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> What the heck is a hack saw we use stuff like this;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, that's pretty nice.


----------



## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I'm beginning to think maybe I should break out my hacksaw.

It's a hell of a lot lighter than lugging around my sawzall.

Then again...I guess I haven't been cutting as much pipe as I used to.


----------



## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

Vintage Sounds said:


> They all kind of seem the same to me. If I want a shiny new high tension one, should I just go with whichever looks the coolest? As long as it's sturdy I can't see a lot of room for innovation here.
> 
> If so, what is the coolest looking hacksaw? Bahco?


 I have that hacksaw, and have had it for years. Mine is a Sandvik, not a Bahco, but same company way back when. It's actually not as good a hacksaw as it looks... it's not high-tension. It does, however, have the 'knob' on the top that helps a lot for moving pieces of conduit around without dropping the saw.

For me, the bottom line is that the saw frame isn't nearly as important as the saw blade. Give me a fresh 32tpi blade from a quality manufacturer and I'm a happy guy.

Mike


----------



## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Wow, that's pretty nice.





Frasbee said:


> I'm beginning to think maybe I should break out my hacksaw.
> 
> It's a hell of a lot lighter than lugging around my sawzall.
> 
> Then again...I guess I haven't been cutting as much pipe as I used to.


There will always be hacksaws and people using hacksaws. When I worked commercial the contractor was not about to buy a cordless sawsall for everyone. And no one was going to buy or bring one to the job site anyway. And portabands are to heavy.

I think all apprentices should learn to use a hacksaw. No vice, no bench. Just his knee.


----------



## sparky723 (Jul 22, 2008)

John Valdes said:


> There will always be hacksaws and people using hacksaws. When I worked commercial the contractor was not about to buy a cordless sawsall for everyone. And no one was going to buy or bring one to the job site anyway. And portabands are to heavy.
> 
> I think all apprentices should learn to use a hacksaw. No vice, no bench. Just his knee.


 Maybe no vise or bench-but at least let him use a bender.


----------



## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

sparky723 said:


> Maybe no vise or bench-but at least let him use a bender.


From what I've seen around a lot of people use the sawzalls with one hand. It's hard to resist but dangerous.


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I struggled with subpar hacksaws for years, and became determined to find the best one. Suffice it to say, I bought a lot of hacksaws. I am settled that the Milwaukee 48-08-0320 is the best hacksaw frame money can buy.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-40-8140.pdf


----------



## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> I struggled with subpar hacksaws for years, and became determined to find the best one. Suffice it to say, I bought a lot of hacksaws. I am settled that the Milwaukee 48-08-0320 is the best hacksaw frame money can buy.
> 
> http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-40-8140.pdf


That frame looks a lot like mine. Mine is a Klein and I've had it for 30 years.


----------



## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> From what I've seen around a lot of people use the sawzalls with one hand. It's hard to resist but dangerous.


I was on a job last week and saw (2) carpenters cutting small block of wood with one hand on the skill saw and the other holding the wood.. 

Must be Mexican Carpentry 101.. what is the Spanish word for "kick back"


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

RIVETER said:


> That frame looks a lot like mine. Mine is a Klein and I've had it for 30 years.


It's similar to the old Klein "heavyweight" hacksaw frame, but still superior.


----------



## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> It's similar to the old Klein "heavyweight" hacksaw frame, but still superior.


Well, to each his own...mine is good too. Why don't we have a hacksaw competition at the forum picnic? I'll bring my own PIPE.:thumbsup:


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> From what I've seen around a lot of people use the sawzalls with one hand. It's hard to resist but dangerous.


I've been doing that for years, I see no real danger. It's not like a circular saw in which your finger ic cut off before you know it, you have time to react to a sawzall.


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I actually do use a hack saw a lot still. Usually for odd little modifications and notching you couldn't do with a recip saw or a band saw.


----------



## Trimix-leccy (Dec 4, 2007)

One of mine is made by Ding-Dong [seriously!:thumbsup:]...had it for over 30 years. Will try and post a pic tomorrow, as I have left it on site


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Trimix-leccy said:


> One of mine is made by Ding-Dong [seriously!:thumbsup:].........



So your screwdrivers are Ho Hos and your tape measure is a Twinkie? :laughing:


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

s.kelly said:


> FWIW only new hacksaw I could find made anywhere but China or something like that was a real cheap one. Looks cheap compared to the new ones anyway. Made here in the US and given me lots of good service, but a few strange looks. Looks like hasbro got into the saw business, can't remember the brand. When someone makes fun of it I tell em to shut their cakehole and look where theirs was made.
> 
> One before that was probably 10 or 11 bucks at an antique store. Best saw I ever had, but I the blade tensioning nut, and cannot find a suitable replacement yet. Wooden handle and nice to use.


You WHAT the blade tensioning nut? Did you eat it? Burry it? What man, you left us all in suspense!!
:laughing:


----------



## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

John Valdes said:


> I think all apprentices should learn to use a hacksaw. No vice, no bench. Just his knee.


Learn, yes, for when you're in a tight spot.

Otherwise, no point in going out of the way just to make things more difficult for yourself.


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

RIVETER said:


> From what I've seen around a lot of people use the sawzalls with one hand. It's hard to resist but dangerous.


You mean with there thumb resting against the back of the blade gaurd and there forefinger gently guiding the top side of the blade to get a nice straight cut everytime?

Thats a debauchery!! 

:whistling2::whistling2:


----------



## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

Hey help me decide which one of these to get to go with my hacksaw. :jester:


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

For the record saws dont HACK people do. I prefer the term Manual Recipricateing Saw. (MRS pronounced misses))

For example
What do we cut that with?
Go get the MRS from the truck.
HUH?
Yea I know she's a b!tch but its only one cut.


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

Bob Badger said:


> Hey help me decide which one of these to get to go with my hacksaw. :jester:


 
I still use the brace and bit on occassion. Like an attic if its only a hole or two, it beats lugging up the hole hog and cord and they do work if you have a good bit.


----------



## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

gold said:


> I still use the brace and bit on occassion. Like an attic if its only a hole or two, it beats lugging up the hole hog and cord and they do work if you have a good bit.


So does a cordless with a spade bit. :thumbsup:


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Bob Badger said:


> Hey help me decide which one of these to get to go with my hacksaw. :jester:


Hey bob 480 called, he wants his first cordless drill back.:laughing:


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

If I was as lucky as you guys the company would always provide a cordless sawzall, porta-band or even a chop saw...but they don't, and I'm not going to bring my own on a regular basis either. The "hacksaw culture" is very much alive at this company. There's even a few guys who always use a hacksaw on BX :blink: 

There's a corded Hilti recip saw but taking 5 seconds extra to cut with a hacksaw is way faster than making an extra trip to carry an extension cord wherever I'm going. I have a beat up Greenlee hacksaw that a plumber left at my parents' house about 5 years ago, but it's not that exciting. I was hoping for something colourful or ideally one that has a built-in bricklayer-vaporising raygun.

I was thinking of this Starrett


----------



## JohnR (Apr 12, 2010)

I like using my hacksaw. I like to use it on bx, mc, pvc, emt, strut. If I have a lot of one or the other to cut, I will break out my Dewalt 18v or my rotostrips.

One time i borrowed a really nice 28v Milwaukee from a co-worker to cut some pvc, was in a slight hurry, held my thumb against the side of the shoe and it took a jump. The side rail which holds my Dewalt shoe is not there. it is on the bottom instead. Anyway, my dear little thumb got caught in the space that is between the shoe and the blade clamp. Nicely pounding my thumbprint off my thumb. Just Lovely.:thumbsup:


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

Bob Badger said:


> So does a cordless with a spade bit. :thumbsup:


It is cordless!!! It really isnt as bad as it sounds.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

gold said:


> I still use the brace and bit on occassion. Like an attic if its only a hole or two, it beats lugging up the hole hog and cord and they do work if you have a good bit.


Why would you possibly use a hole hog for drilling holes down from an attic? I've never heard of that...

Use your 18V cordless drill.

I use my 10.8V Makita with a paddle bit, even lighter and easier to carry than your brace and bit:


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

HackWork said:


> Why would you possibly use a hole hog for drilling holes down from an attic? I've never heard of that...
> 
> Use your 18V cordless drill.
> 
> I use my 10.8V Makita with a paddle bit, even lighter and easier to carry than your brace and bit:


I dont always, but I keep one on my truck and I have an occassional use for it. I only use paddle bits if its less then 1 1/2 thick. Double plates and paddle bits screw drills up.

Side note I bet I can get that B&B through a double plate faster then you can get through it with a paddle bit on a cordless.


----------



## jza (Oct 31, 2009)

How are you guys skinning BX without a hacksaw?

Those gay BX skinners, really?


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

gold said:


> I only use paddle bits if its less then 1 1/2 thick. Double plates and paddle bits screw drills up.
> 
> Side note I bet I can get that B&B through a double plate faster then you can get through it with a paddle bit on a cordless.


 I go thru 3 2X's (nailer and double top plate) with an 18V Dewalt and an auger bit in seconds.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

jza said:


> How are you guys skinning BX without a hacksaw?
> 
> Those gay BX skinners, really?


Either a Rotosplit or those Klein BX Shears.


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

HackWork said:


> I go thru 3 2X's (nailer and double top plate) with an 18V Dewalt and an auger bit in seconds.


The B&B is almost as fast. Think about how slow your hole hog turns. Its not that hard to match the speed. At least for a few holes. 

Granted some of you may get your dress dirty in the process but...

I use a yankee screwdriver as well. THAT my friend I know I can land a device faster then you can with a drill without over sinking it. I seen guys with those bent screwdrivers that can beet a drill as well.


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

gold said:


> The B&B is almost as fast. Think about how slow your hole hog turns. Its not that hard to match the speed. At least for a few holes.
> 
> Granted some of you may get your dress dirty in the process but...
> 
> I use a yankee screwdriver as well. THAT my friend I know I can land a device faster then you can with a drill without over sinking it. I seen guys with those bent screwdrivers that can beet a drill as well.


I bet I could drill through a block with my cordless by the time you are done drilling through a stud with a B&B. I will also have bonded all the metal stuff in the ground by the time you are done too.




:jester:


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

Jlarson said:


> I bet I could drill through a block with my cordless by the time you are done drilling through a stud with a B&B. I will also have bonded all the metal stuff in the ground by the time you are done too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bet I can land a room full of devices with my Yankee faster then you can bond a '53 Ford hood to form the Grounding Electrode System!!!!

:whistling2:


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

gold said:


> Bet I can land a room full of devices with my Yankee faster then you can bond a '53 Ford hood to form the Grounding Electrode System!!!!
> 
> :whistling2:


:no::no: one word, cadweld. I win


----------



## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Frasbee said:


> I'm beginning to think maybe I should break out my hacksaw.
> 
> It's a hell of a lot lighter than lugging around my sawzall.
> 
> Then again...I guess I haven't been cutting as much pipe as I used to.


I like my hacksaw. If you are on small jobs you don't need a sawzall. Just pin conduit against something, wall or pillar or? And grip it tight and use your hacksaw. You always have your hacksaw with you. I don't like lugging power tools all the time. I also don't want to use a sawzall in a dirty,wet environment when I can use a hacksaw.


----------



## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

I'll take corded for drilling top plates in remodel.


----------



## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

jza said:


> How are you guys skinning BX without a hacksaw?
> 
> Those gay BX skinners, really?


 I love my BX stripper. Calling it names doesn't reduce its value.

Mike


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

nitro71 said:


> I'll take corded for drilling top plates in remodel.


I figure that it's enough work crawling around the attic alone, why have to drag a cord thru too?

Usually it's just one or two holes, so the little 10.8V impact gun (pictured above) and paddle bit goes with me (right in my back pocket). If it's more than 3 or 4 holes I will take the 18V Dewalt or equivalent with an auger bit. I've never been in a situation in which I've had to drill so many holes that a single 18V battery couldn't handle it.


----------



## goose134 (Nov 12, 2007)

Hacksaw for EMT 1" and under. Bandsaw for strut, big pipe, and repetitive (and/or bundled cuts). 

That said, I can't say that sawzalls haven't gotten me out of some jams.


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

jza said:


> How are you guys skinning BX without a hacksaw?
> 
> Those gay BX skinners, really?


By the time you pick up your hacksaw and think about where to place it on the BX, a guy with a Rotosplit is already done, has already put the anti short in, and is tightening the set screw on the L16. You would really rather find a flat surface to carefully hacksaw a BX jacket than just turn a crank twice and have a perfect cut in the exact spot you wanted every time without risking your fingers? :blink: 

Most JMs who I know are fans of snapping BX sideways, twisting backwards and clipping the jacket with sidecutters. I got put on lighting for this current job and while making hundreds and hundreds of jumpers for 1x4 lay-ins both hacksaw and sidecutter methods made me feel like I was trying to play table tennis using a baroque wedding cake. Over the course of a number of rooms having a Rotosplit saved a few hours at least.


----------



## gold (Feb 15, 2008)

Vintage Sounds said:


> By the time you pick up your hacksaw and think about where to place it on the BX, a guy with a Rotosplit is already done, has already put the anti short in, and is tightening the set screw on the L16. You would really rather find a flat surface to carefully hacksaw a BX jacket than just turn a crank twice and have a perfect cut in the exact spot you wanted every time without risking your fingers? :blink:
> 
> Most JMs who I know are fans of snapping BX sideways, twisting backwards and clipping the jacket with sidecutters. I got put on lighting for this current job and while making hundreds and hundreds of jumpers for 1x4 lay-ins both hacksaw and sidecutter methods made me feel like I was trying to play table tennis using a baroque wedding cake. Over the course of a number of rooms having a Rotosplit saved a few hours at least.


351 has rules in there bylaws against using anything other then a rotosplit to strip mc. 

I admit the rotosplit is faster and makes a more consistant clean cut.


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I snap and snip on the very, very rare occasion I have to use MC.


----------



## s.kelly (Mar 20, 2009)

gold said:


> You WHAT the blade tensioning nut? Did you eat it? Burry it? What man, you left us all in suspense!!
> :laughing:


 
lost it. 

12" blade on the saw was a little long for the tool box I was carrying, so I would take the blade out when not in use. Lots of band saws around so it did not get used much

somewhere along the way, the nut disappeared.


----------



## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

gold said:


> 351 has rules in there bylaws against using anything other then a rotosplit to strip mc.
> 
> I admit the rotosplit is faster and makes a more consistant clean cut.


 The only things I *don't* like about the rotosplit is that they are limited to smaller sizes so they're not of much use for liquid-tite conduit (when trying to cut it while it has wires in it) and it doesn't leave a smooth end on the BX... you have that pointy bit in there that I sometimes snip off because it impedes my ability to get the BX solidly anchored in the L16.
Anti-shorts are a (necessary) irritation. That's an item that's ready for a re-think.

Mike


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Mike in Canada said:


> Anti-shorts are a (necessary) irritation.


I haven't used them in years, I never had an issue.


----------



## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

They're a code requirement here. I would have expected them to be a code requirement in the states as well.

Mike


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Mike in Canada said:


> They're a code requirement here. I would have expected them to be a code requirement in the states as well.
> 
> Mike


Nope. 

If you make a clean cut and don't go crazy torquing down the connector, you won't have a problem. The sharp edges on the armor are angled away from the conductors.


----------



## jwjrw (Jan 14, 2010)

Mike in Canada said:


> They're a code requirement here. I would have expected them to be a code requirement in the states as well.
> 
> Mike


 
Only ac cable here requires them.


----------



## Mike in Canada (Jun 27, 2010)

Wait a minute... AC90 is what I call 'BX', and that's what I use anti-shorts in. What else would a BX-stripper be used for that wouldn't need anti-shorts?

Mike


----------



## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

Mike in Canada said:


> Wait a minute... AC90 is what I call 'BX', and that's what I use anti-shorts in. What else would a BX-stripper be used for that wouldn't need anti-shorts?
> 
> Mike


MC cable does not require anti-shorts under the NEC.

MC cable looks very much like AC cable, the most obvious difference is that AC has a paper wrapping and MC has a plastic wrapping.


----------



## oldtimer (Jun 10, 2010)

Mike in Canada said:


> Wait a minute... AC90 is what I call 'BX', and that's what I use anti-shorts in. What else would a BX-stripper be used for that wouldn't need anti-shorts?
> 
> Mike


 Yep! In Canada antishorts are required! There are always sharp edges.


----------

