# Step drill bit favorite ?



## David C (May 19, 2015)

Hi, I'm looking at adding a step drill bit to my personal tool collection and would like to get more info on what's good and what's the most useful out there. Trying to keep it under $50, mostly for 1/2" and 3/4" knockouts (7/8" and 1-1/8"), looking on Amazon.com I saw the Milwaukee #9 at $35, Irwin #9 at $30, Bosch at $35, Lenox VB11 at $43, Lenox VB12 at $55, DeWalt DWA1789IR at $51 (1/4" shank impact rated).

And then more and more.

Ideally I'd like to have a 3/8" shank or even better 1/4" hex lock as I could use it with my drivers, and to do at least up to 1-1/8". Self-drilling tip optional, but has to have thick steps for knockouts in thicker materials (just had to do 3 knockouts in 1/4" thick dense aluminum beams today, had an old Lenox VB11 laying around that saved the day). It's gonna be for occasional use, but has to be quality.

I feel like Irwin, Lenox and Milwaukee have the edge in this market, but I see DeWalt and Bosch are also in the game. I really like the DeWalt impact rated one for the hex shank, but not the price.


----------



## BBS (Aug 19, 2009)

Have you considered carbide hole cutters? Faster, more precise, and the material thickness is irrelevant.

I have a Hilti step bit. It's pretty good but more expensive than the others. 
Those Dewalt impact rated ones look pretty spiffy though: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=digtOfIz6Fo
Whatever you buy, make sure the shank isn't circular. Lobed at least or hex preferred. 
Two cutting edges/flutes are better than one.


----------



## lj973gm (Aug 30, 2012)

BBS said:


> Have you considered carbide hole cutters? Faster, more precise, and the material thickness is irrelevant.
> 
> I have a Hilti step bit. It's pretty good but more expensive than the others.
> Those Dewalt impact rated ones look pretty spiffy though:
> ...


A carbide hole saw is not relevant if you are opening up a hole. Also a lipped edge or the hole you are cutting meets the arc of another hole it tends to take out a tooth. They have their place but carbide holes saws are not the end all. It is nice to have one step bit to solve multiple situations that you run into. If it is 1/2, 3/4 or 1" holes into tubes a carbide is the way to fly, besides that I do not opt for them. 

I have use a large variety of brands since the boss just tosses you them on jobs. The shop I work for are very willing to purchase tools to speed up a job. Any notable brand is about the same from what I have witnessed. Keep the speed down so you do not burn them up same as any drill bit. 

In a impact is the way to go, since it is what I typically stroll around with, it also keeps the rpms low if you keep good pressure on it.

Personally I have not had good luck with milwaukee or irwin drill bits or hole saws they are just a poor design and do not last as long. Milwaukee only if it is a corded tool.


----------



## Jmcstevenson (Sep 11, 2010)

Whaaa? You guys use your step bits in your impacts? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

I've got an Irwin 1/2" that I've been using for a long time. I've also Greenlee that's held up very well. Got a Milwaukee still in the package.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I dunno. I have never owned a step bit. What am I missing? KO cutters make a nice hole.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

As my family owns 1 triplex of 5 apartments and 2 summer houses, we have a fair bundle of tools, most of it being at home, and some at the beach house, and step drill bits have been very useful for anything above 1/2" in metal or when spade bits wouldn't do. Since I'll be moving to Vancouver, I won't have all these tools, so that's why I'm looking into a step bit to bring along, but I'm not there yet as to buy expensive job specific accessories like carbide cutters for home use.

I find step bits to be pricy too, you can almost buy a set of carbide cutters for the price of a single 7/8 to 1-3/8 step bit.


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

They all suck about the same. I try to preserve them for occasions when I'm opening up an existing hole. The smaller steps, because of the way step bits are used, get dull as hell before the larger steps are barely broken in.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

This makes a nice hole and doesn't leave conductive filings inside your box:


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

MDShunk said:


> They all suck about the same. I try to preserve them for occasions when I'm opening up an existing hole. The smaller steps, because of the way step bits are used, get dull as hell before the larger steps are barely broken in.


Opening or enlarging a hole is pretty much what I plan on doing with step bits. I'd usually drill first before moving to the step bit. As you say, it's for occasional use.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

99cents said:


> This makes a nice hole and doesn't leave conductive filings inside your box:


My bday is coming up, take note


----------



## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

You've certainly put a lot of thought into a single tool purchase, IMO.

I've only had the ones that do can clearly work a .3/4" hole. I never worried about the shank size.

It's a passive tool that one might need or never need in a daily course of work.
IE some days it's worthy of ownership, most times it's just avoiding rust.

I like slug busters maybe more because I do more new work than rehab. but in
most cases the hole is already the correct size for larger device boxes.

Unrelated;
I've took the leap and bought carbide hole cuts because I needed them
for SS boxes on job. Frankly I didn't want to chase down the company supplied
tools somewhere on the job... and then have to return it ASAP.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

David C said:


> My bday is coming up, take note


I bought mine used from a retired dude a million years ago. They last forever.


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Get a step drill from one of those traveling tool tent sales are Harbor Freight to see if you even have a use for one before you spend real money on a decent one.


----------



## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

I got a 3 pack of them from HF to clean out a 1/2" PVC pipe that had broken off in an FS box. I was able to do 4 before it dulled. Got a Greenlee step bit that I still use, although the small portion of the bit has died. 


Sent from my house using 2 cans and a string!


----------



## Ninety (Jan 7, 2011)

An over smart guy here on ET shamed me for suggesting that drilling with an impact is a good idea. The reasoning is that you don't want to drill with an impact. Heed the knowledge of the Internet.

And get the Lennox.


----------



## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

Ninety said:


> An over smart guy here on ET shamed me for suggesting that drilling with an impact is a good idea. The reasoning is that you don't want to drill with an impact. Heed the knowledge of the Internet.
> 
> And get the Lennox.


That dewalt made for the impact looks good to me....:thumbsup:


----------



## Black Dog (Oct 16, 2011)

99cents said:


> This makes a nice hole and doesn't leave conductive filings inside your box:


Hey; *Get the real thing.*......:thumbup:


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

Sorry, should have made it more clear that it was for my own tool box, not to bring on the job site (unless it's a side job/home owner job), I expect my boss to supply the proper KO tools.

And yes I had several uses for a 7/8" step bit, mostly to open up holes to fit the 1/2" connector. It's just that I can only bring my own tools when I'll move from the east to the west coast.

Btw, I see the Lenox VB9 being made for 7/8", 1 1/8" and maxing out at 1 7/32". Is 1 7/32" a trade size of ours ?


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

Black Dog said:


> Hey; *Get the real thing.*......:thumbup:


That's what we got at school, works alright if you're not in a rush and have enough room to work near the knockout.


----------



## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

Black Dog said:


> Hey; Get the real thing.......:thumbup:


Toss in a step bit and I'm good to go..


----------



## Rollie73 (Sep 19, 2010)

Greenlee step bit......a set of Greenlee carbide cutters....and a set of Greenlee KO cutters and Im all good to go. I have everything from 1/2" to 6" that way.


----------



## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

Step bits were cool in 1992.


----------



## Dhender1985 (Jul 26, 2015)

I got a Milwaukee 3 pack hole saw (1/2 3/4 & 1 inch knockout) kit that works with my impact. It's spring loaded, so it spits out the piece that's cut (not good on a live panel) and it was around $35 at home depot. For step bits, of you have a harbor freight near by, that's the way to go. "Disposable" tools like drill bits and such are great there cause they are cheap, and not a big loss of they break or go missing.


----------



## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

Some people have problems with step bits and the metal shavings. Just like a hole saw a little care is all that's needed. 
Use cardboard to direct the shavings outside the box being drilled.
Place some 33 sticky side up across areas that the cardboard don't cover. 
Place your level atop and near were your drilling. Let the shavings stick to the can and wipe them off. 
Use your level to clean up each time you drill into a can. 

Take your time, there is no hurry if your drilling in to a drive, starter or panel.


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

We like Ruko's. Run at the right speed and feed they make great quality holes.


----------



## LuckyLuke (Jun 1, 2015)

I buy my guys the Ruko step bits as well, best ones I have owned so far.


http://www.ruko.de/englisch/products/metal/step drills/step_drills_en.htm


----------



## KennyW (Aug 31, 2013)

Impact Step bit - that is too awesome. 

Seems they've been around for a few years and I just never noticed. 

Such a good idea. 

My M12 Fuel drill will turn a 7/8" step bit fine - so I assume an M12 fuel impact would operate the biggest step bit (1-1/8" aka 3/4" KO) ok? Can anyone confirm?


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

The M12 Fuel Impact is rated at over 1 200inch/lbs of torque, The M18 Fuel drill/driver is at 700inch/lbs. Since most 18v impact drivers actually have similar torque to the M12 Fuel impact, I think you should be pretty good at least on cans and similar thickness steel. I know I can do 7/8 with a 12v impact in a can.


----------



## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Jlarson said:


> We like Ruko's. Run at the right speed and feed they make great quality holes.


Are those the automation direct ones you were talking about a while ago?

I use the crap out of my uni-bits. The Milwaukee ones are junk though.


----------



## LuckyLuke (Jun 1, 2015)

Going_Commando said:


> Are those the automation direct ones you were talking about a while ago?
> 
> I use the crap out of my uni-bits. The Milwaukee ones are junk though.


Automation direct sells some of them along with taps and bits


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Are those the automation direct ones you were talking about a while ago?
> 
> I use the crap out of my uni-bits. The Milwaukee ones are junk though.


Yeah.


We tried the Milwaukee's too, crap.


----------



## LuckyLuke (Jun 1, 2015)

Jlarson said:


> Yeah.
> 
> 
> We tried the Milwaukee's too, crap.


I tried the Milwaukee step bits once.........once


----------



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Once I made the transition to Greenlee tungsten carbide -- ages ago -- my usage of step bits collapsed. ( They were Greenlee, too. )

&&&

I favor starting all my holes with self-tapping Tek screws -- or Silver bullet button head screws... as starter pilot bits.

Then I open up the hole with the conventional pilot bit and carbide cutter. 

This cheesy process extends the life of the pilot bit -- which I think is some metric job out of Japan.

If you don't have one, purchase a tungsten carbide pilot bit. This way you can cut stainless steel -- from pilot bit to carbide cutter. The best lubricants for this cut lean towards sour cream. (really) 

Right now I'm using some green goo. (from my e-distributor) that works really well.


----------



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

We should start a thread on cutting lubricants. :thumbsup:


----------



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pvjHrLlIvg

A cute trick, courtesy of the IBEW.


----------



## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I never carry my hydraulic or quick draw kit anymore. 1/2" battery gun.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

Do you guys know anything about the brand TEMO ? I saw their step bits on Amazon and theyre very similar to those new DeWalt impact rated ones, except they're half the price right now (Amazon prices can jump around like crazy, so I don't always rely on the current price to tell quality). They seem to get great reviews too.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

Here, just bought that one. 7/8" and 1-1/8" titanium coated spiral step bit with 1/4" hex shank for $27 ($36 CAD).

I'll try it out and report.


TEMO M2 HSS Ti step bit

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQJKOVC?


----------



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

I think those things that we used to call Unibits make way too much of a mess and are for use by very entry level folks.
I used one for a couple of years when I first entered the trade only to make a hole for a knock out punch.
I was never a fan of hole saws as they are just too consumable. I really hate buying them. Sometimes the pilot bit gets dull, sometimes the holesaw gets dull.
I have found a couple of carbide holesaws in my collection these days but, I due prefer using a hydraulic knock out when ever possible.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

talking about knockout punch, what's the Milwaukee Force Logic cordless knockout punch tool worth ? At $1 500 for the kit, is there many contractors that use it over an hydraulic kit ?


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

David C said:


> talking about knockout punch, what's the Milwaukee Force Logic cordless knockout punch tool worth ? At $1 500 for the kit, is there many contractors that use it over an hydraulic kit ?


My company has one and it's definitely better than a hydraulic system. It's faster to set up and faster to operate, plus less awkward.


----------



## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

jrannis said:


> I think those things that we used to call Unibits make way too much of a mess and are for use by very entry level folks.
> I used one for a couple of years when I first entered the trade only to make a hole for a knock out punch.
> I was never a fan of hole saws as they are just too consumable. I really hate buying them. Sometimes the pilot bit gets dull, sometimes the holesaw gets dull.
> I have found a couple of carbide holesaws in my collection these days but, I due prefer using a hydraulic knock out when ever possible.


I didnt realize that a carbide hole saw takes more skill and experience than the entry level unibit. I just put whatever into a drill, make it go forward, and squeeze the trigger...


----------



## KennyW (Aug 31, 2013)

Going_Commando said:


> I didnt realize that a carbide hole saw takes more skill and experience than the entry level unibit. I just put whatever into a drill, make it go forward, and squeeze the trigger...


I was going to post something similar. It's more that not everyone works on the same stuff. I often need to make a couple hundred knockouts in an electrical room that's suspended on a steel structure. 

These are 50 million dollar machines and the guys working on them are not generally hacks. But, good luck using a punch set, it would be a very awkward, 2 man job, with a guy up on scaffolding underneath managing the back of the die set. 

Not everyones situation is the same. If you make a lot of holes where you can't readily access the back side of the knockout, you keep your eyes open for anything that might make life easier. I am going to try the impact unibit for sure. Larger holes end up either a hole saw or carbide cutter. We use the greenlee and ideal carbide sets but honestly I don't find them any better than a standard hole saw. They last longer but they're more expensive so it's a wash.

Also keep in mind these bits are for 1-1/8 max. I would say many guys would argue that using a punch for a 7/8 or 1-1/8 hole is dumb. By the time you make the hole for the draw stud you might as well just keep going and drill it to size.


----------



## Michigan Master (Feb 25, 2013)

We stock these in our supply crib. Ideal 35-513 1/4 to 7/8".


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

Just received my Temo 7/[email protected]/8" step bit with hex shank and tried it out on a old baseboard heater I just took off and compared with the Lenox VB11 I have at my beach house. The Temo doesn't self-drill as fast as the Lenox, actually took twice as long, but once it burst trough, performance are very similar, although I didn't had my impact here so I couldn't test it out to the max. I do like the 1/2" first step and how deep all three steps are, which means I can do knockout on thick materials such as PVC and alloy beams. I'm going home on Wednesday so I'll try it out with my impact then.


----------



## maddhatter (May 7, 2012)

I just buy bulk cheap and nasty ones off ebay, you can get a kit for ~$13 landed from China, usually get 3-6 months out of them before needing to upsize a hole in a 316 stainless enclosure, in-turn ruining them and proceeding to buy another set.


----------



## CharlieCarcinogen (Aug 8, 2015)

David C said:


> Just received my Temo 7/[email protected]/8" step bit with hex shank and tried it out on a old baseboard heater I just took off and compared with the Lenox VB11 I have at my beach house. The Temo doesn't self-drill as fast as the Lenox, actually took twice as long, but once it burst trough, performance are very similar, although I didn't had my impact here so I couldn't test it out to the max. I do like the 1/2" first step and how deep all three steps are, which means I can do knockout on thick materials such as PVC and alloy beams. I'm going home on Wednesday so I'll try it out with my impact then.


The pilot tip on uni-bits always seemed to dull fast, so I always took a 1/4" bit with me when starting from scratch.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

CharlieCarcinogen said:


> The pilot tip on uni-bits always seemed to dull fast, so I always took a 1/4" bit with me when starting from scratch.


Yeah I have a few spare Irwin Impact hex shank drill bits, I should keep one with the step bit.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

Here's pics of the Temo step bit.

Tested with both impact and driver, on fluorescent light fixture.

Works pretty good, also tested in heavier steel with M18 impact and does great !


----------



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

David C said:


> Yeah I have a few spare Irwin Impact hex shank drill bits, I should keep one with the step bit.


If you're REALLY cheap... like me... you use TEK self-tappers -- which are always good for a hole or two -- after which you can STILL use them for their original purpose. :thumbsup:

Should you lose one, it's no biggie. :no:

Now that's cheap. :laughing:


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

telsa said:


> If you're REALLY cheap... like me... you use TEK self-tappers -- which are always good for a hole or two -- after which you can STILL use them for their original purpose. :thumbsup:
> 
> Should you lose one, it's no biggie. :no:
> 
> Now that's cheap. :laughing:


We all do, what ever it takes to get the job done with whatever you have on hand. Like the apprentice who used romex can knockout as a washer on a 2" PVC clamps... Now that's cheap


----------



## butcher733 (Aug 4, 2012)

DOTTIE makes step bits with replaceable tips.http://m.cesco.com/b2c/product/307274?gdftrk=gdfV25445_a_7c1847_a_7c7081_a_7c307274&gclid=CMyXy7ii4ccCFYc2gQodTrgJ3g


----------



## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

I personally like the Ideal titanium coated ones. I did try a 3 pack, for $10 from Harbor Freight, just to see if they were complete garbage or not. They were.


----------



## freeagnt54 (Aug 6, 2008)

Going_Commando said:


> I didnt realize that a carbide hole saw takes more skill and experience than the entry level unibit. I just put whatever into a drill, make it go forward, and squeeze the trigger...


I can drill hundreds of holes with 1 carbide hole saw yet if I loan it to an apprentice or some dip**** journeyman they can manage to toast it in 10 minutes.

Heat will kill any drill bit. If you watch the color of chips/shavings as you're drilling you can see how hot it is getting.

Silver = good
Brown = caution
Black/blue = stop

I typically drill with as much pressure as I can in low gear and I drill for 2-5 seconds, stop for a second or two then continue depending on chip color. Water or cutting oil/wax is usually a good idea if its okay to make a little mess.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

I had to enlarge a bore in a sprocket gear on the spot (I work as a mechanic for custom jobs) so it could clear a shaft (the gear is bolted on a plate, not on a hub/shaft) and once again a step bit with my impact driver got it done (hole was 1", had to get it up to 1-1/8").

So far that step bit works pretty good for me. Using cutting oil, lots of pressure and slow cutting speed due to the impacting, it stayed cool and withstand over 1 000 in-lbs of torque.


----------



## Gnome (Dec 25, 2013)

*Reasons for step bits*



99cents said:


> I dunno. I have never owned a step bit. What am I missing? KO cutters make a nice hole.


 In no particular order:


Way less weight/volume to pack around than any of the other options.
Up-sizing 1/2 holes to 3/4 in fiberglass and plastic boxes.
Up-sizing holes in poly-carbonate.
Drilling holes in thin sheet metal and sheet metal style cable tray.
Drilling holes in corrugated V-Beam siding (pretty much impossible to do with a hole saw or punch because the hole extends up the side of the corrugation).
And I realize this is a special case: drilling in between sizes needed for metric connectors.
I've got two Greenlees (#8 kwik step and #14) that I've used fairly regularly for over a year. If you are careful with the speed they seem pretty durable; I've noticed a lot of people spin them way to fast and burn them up.

Don't get me wrong if I need a couple dozen holes in a can or I'm set up at a bench prepping W/P JBs I much prefer to punch them. But for a few holes here and there as I go about my day it's a step bit all the way.


----------



## 211mike70 (May 18, 2015)

Check out the Canadian Tire ones when they go on sale, last a long time and the price is anywhere from $15 (on sale) to $40ish.


----------



## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

David C said:


> I had to enlarge a bore in a sprocket gear on the spot (I work as a mechanic for custom jobs) so it could clear a shaft (the gear is bolted on a plate, not on a hub/shaft) and once again a step bit with my impact driver got it done (hole was 1", had to get it up to 1-1/8").
> 
> So far that step bit works pretty good for me. Using cutting oil, lots of pressure and slow cutting speed due to the impacting, it stayed cool and withstand over 1 000 in-lbs of torque.


Why use impact on metal?


----------



## metsen duts (Jan 14, 2015)

i used a neiko off of amazon its a 10 dollar bit that works fine for the occasional use and if it walks off i wont be heart broken


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

John Valdes said:


> Why use impact on metal?


Because I didn't had time to do a proper jig to clamp the sprocket on the table of my big press drill and use the proper speed and feed. And I didn't wanted to strain and twist my wrists doing it with my Fuel drill instead, trying to compensate for speed variation when the bit start engaging with too much pressure, while maintaining a low speed and straight angle.

Using the impact driver takes all those things you have to control and turn them into noise. You should try it, the bit turns slowly and bites nicely into the metal, all you have to do is keep the pressure on and gauge the pressure threshold needed for the impact driver to start impacting and without asking for too much torque output so you don't stress the cutting tool.


----------



## David C (May 19, 2015)

211mike70 said:


> Check out the Canadian Tire ones when they go on sale, last a long time and the price is anywhere from $15 (on sale) to $40ish.


Yeah, I've been using one of that set for about 60ish holes with both 12v and 18v impact drivers into 1/8" steel and it's been great. However, they don't make them with 1/4" hex shank in 7/8" or bigger, usually the biggest you'll find is about 1/2" to 3/4".

But i agree, that set of 3 is worth every penny when on sale for $15. It's too bad they don't make one up to 7/8".


----------



## Jmcstevenson (Sep 11, 2010)

I've never used an impact either, but like the idea. Always had the idea it wasn't good for the bit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## KennyW (Aug 31, 2013)

So I bought an impact a while back and bought one of the dewalt "impact ready" step bits. Results are not so great. I bought the 7/8 one which sucks becuase the 7/8 is the very last step, and it's not like the carbide cutters or better hole saws that have an extra "step" to keep it from flying through the can when the last step is done. 

It cuts great but I was actually too gentle on the last step, took pressure off and then back on just one and it chipped out the last step (due to the issue noted above). Lame. I've never had a step drill actually chip. So that's either a function of the impact, or the bit was defective. This happened on the very first hole. Yes technically operator error but man that is picky. I have been pretty ham fisted with step drills before and never chipped one. Over heat and make it dull, sure. But chipped? 

I drilled a few more and it does work fine except the last step is humped now. I also noticed I get way fewer hole drilled using the impact vs my drill (1/2 m12 fuel drill vs m12 fuel impact, same batteries). 

So that is also a downer. 

I noticed dewalt make "impact ready" hole saws. Being bimetal I am thinking maybe they are better suited to an impact (just plain old not as hard/brittle). I will give them a test run and report back.


----------



## bobbarker (Aug 6, 2015)

My favorite step bit is the one that the company buys and ends up in my drill pouch bag


----------



## CraiGenerator (Feb 6, 2015)

*It depends on whos bits you use most*

If your company supplies most of the heavy duty stuff, and you just want something in your bag to use and abuse then i woud go to Harbor Freight. The step bits are pretty much the only thing I get from H.F., because they often go on sale for like 9.99 for a multi-size 3 pack with keyless chuck stems. I load up on those, and as I use them up, or they sprout legs and walk away on a jobsite, it's not much skin off my back. Burning through a bit that just cost $50 is no fun. I could get 15 bits for that price, and they do the job.


----------



## skennedy214 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Have you considered IDEAL step bits?*

IDEAL offers both Titanium coated for ultra long life, as well as quick chuck/speed chuck step bits for rapid swap out on quick chuck power drills.


----------

