# Hard wired dishwasher



## Gamit (Dec 30, 2009)

From what I understand from reading the appliance section in article 400 you can hard wire a dish washer if it is within sight or you use a breaker lock. Then it mentioned that the beaker lock can not be of the set screw type? Can someone give me a link or a part number of what you would use? Really don't feel like pulling out dishwasher and putting cord and plug


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

Gamit said:


> From what I understand from reading the appliance section in article 400 you can hard wire a dish washer if it is within sight or you use a breaker lock. Then it mentioned that the beaker lock can not be of the set screw type? Can someone give me a link or a part number of what you would use? Really don't feel like pulling out dishwasher and putting cord and plug


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Put a sp switch in the sink cabinet.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Gamit said:


> From what I understand from reading the appliance section in article 400 you can hard wire a dish washer if it is within sight or you use a breaker lock. Then it mentioned that the beaker lock can not be of the set screw type? Can someone give me a link or a part number of what you would use? Really don't feel like pulling out dishwasher and putting cord and plug



I thought that ARTICLE 400—FLEXIBLE CORDS AND CABLES..

There is nothing about diswasher in 400 .What article number are you reading.?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

You cannot use a cord and plug unless it is listed by the manufacturer. You will find that in the instructions of most dishwasher. Insane yes but it is what it is.


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## Gamit (Dec 30, 2009)

HARRY304E said:


> I thought that ARTICLE 400&#151;FLEXIBLE CORDS AND CABLES..
> 
> There is nothing about diswasher in 400 .What article number are you reading.?


Sorry 422.31 (b)


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## Gamit (Dec 30, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> You cannot use a cord and plug unless it is listed by the manufacturer. You will find that in the instructions of most dishwasher. Insane yes but it is what it is.


So cord... No?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

At rough in, I always install a box in the sink cabinet with a tail out to the dishwasher. If the dishwasher is the kind that comes with cord and plug then I install a receptacle in that box, If not I direct wire it.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Gamit said:


> So cord... No?


Technically it is an issue but I see it done often.


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## Gamit (Dec 30, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> At rough in, I always install a box in the sink cabinet with a tail out to the dishwasher. If the dishwasher is the kind that comes with cord and plug then I install a receptacle in that box, If not I direct wire it.


To be honest the kitchen is right off the living room and the panel is in the living room within sight if you step back 6 feet from the dishwasher. So if it is brought up I will be sure to be standing on the other side of the kitchen


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Mirror*

If you put one of those mirrors on wall from living room to kitchen (like the ones some people put in driveway to back out of weird areas) that would be within sight and within 50ft. Doesn't say anything about mirrors.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Gamit said:


> Sorry 422.31 (b)


Thank you sir..Like Dennis said i would put a switch box under the sink..
2011NEC 

*422.31 Disconnection of Permanently Connected Appliances.*​
*(A) Rated at Not over 300 Volt-Amperes or *
*1⁄8 Horsepower.*
For permanently connected appliances rated at not

over 300 volt-amperes or ​
​
1⁄8 hp, the branch-circuit overcurrent
device shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means.​​*(B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes. *​*
*​*
*For permanently
connected appliances rated over 300 voltamperes,
the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall
be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the
switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance
or is capable of being locked in the open position. The
provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting
means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit
breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain
in place with or without the lock installed.​​Informational Note: For appliances employing unit switches,​
see 422.34.
​​​​​


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

So what is the problem with adding a switch in the sink cabinet. In our area they allow you to float a switch under the dishwasher but many new models don't have the room to do that so I found the sink cabinet a great solution.

I have seen switch up on the counter by the sink but I hate that option.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Dennis Alwon said:


> So what is the problem with adding a switch in the sink cabinet. In our area they allow you to float a switch under the dishwasher but many new models don't have the room to do that so I found the sink cabinet a great solution.
> 
> I have seen switch up on the counter by the sink but I hate that option.


 We do that up here in a new rough kitchen we put the dishwasher switch on the counter space.


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

With the cabinet door closed the argument could be made that the switch is not within sight of the appliance we had this problem when we had a panel mounted in an adjacent room when the door was open you were in sight of the panel but the inspector said that the door could be closed. The intent of the code was to provide for safety when working on the appliance if you could not "see" the panel someone could accidentally energize the circuit. He won.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I wonder how many dishwasher service personal have been lost that they needed this code change..


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Mr Rewire said:


> With the cabinet door closed the argument could be made that the switch is not within sight of the appliance


That would be a lame excuse. There would be no place I could mount a switch that would be visible all the time if you lay on the floor testing the motor. There are many approved dishwashers that have cord and plug with instructions to install the receptacle in the adjacent cabinet.

The NEC just wants to make sure someone doesn't turn it on while you work on it. Shut the cabinet door and the unit can't be turn on without you seeing someone go in the cabinet.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> You cannot use a cord and plug unless it is listed by the manufacturer. You will find that in the instructions of most dishwasher. Insane yes but it is what it is.


 I used to think its stupid untill I came across a dishwasher wired with a zipcord plug, probably more suited for a lamp...... At least with the direct wire the (hopefully) proper wire gets used... Plus IMO its easier to hard wire and install a breaker lock.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

captkirk said:


> I used to think its stupid untill I came across a dishwasher wired with a zipcord plug, probably more suited for a lamp...... At least with the direct wire the (hopefully) proper wire gets used... Plus IMO its easier to hard wire and install a breaker lock.


Now that is not what I was talking about. There are plenty of appliance cords out there but they are not necessarily listed for that particular dw.


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

Dennis Alwon said:


> That would be a lame excuse. There would be no place I could mount a switch that would be visible all the time if you lay on the floor testing the motor. There are many approved dishwashers that have cord and plug with instructions to install the receptacle in the adjacent cabinet.
> 
> The NEC just wants to make sure someone doesn't turn it on while you work on it. Shut the cabinet door and the unit can't be turn on without you seeing someone go in the cabinet.


 Im not sayin I'm just sayin,Remember the code is not a design manual


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

I always hard wired mine until my electrical inspector told me I was the only one of his electricians doing that. He said he would rather see it cord plug. Easier for servicing I guess.


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

If you go with a breaker lock keep in mind it needs to be the type that is permanently attached to the breaker with or without the lock installed. A lockout /tag out device does not qualify

Lets look at 422.34 
422.34 Unit Switch(es) as Disconnecting Means. 

A unit switch(es) with a marked-off position that is a part of an appliance and disconnects all ungrounded conductors shall be permitted as the disconnecting means required by this article where other means for disconnection are provided in occupancies specified in 422.34(A) through (D). 

*(A)* *Multifamily Dwellings.* In multifamily dwellings, the other disconnecting means shall be within the dwelling unit, or on the same floor as the dwelling unit in which the appliance is installed, and shall be permitted to control lamps and other appliances. 

*(B)* *Two-Family Dwellings.* In two-family dwellings, the other disconnecting means shall be permitted either inside or outside of the dwelling unit in which the appliance is installed. In this case, an individual switch or circuit breaker for the dwelling unit shall be permitted and shall also be permitted to control lamps and other appliances. 

*(C)* *One-Family Dwellings.* In one-family dwellings, the service disconnecting means shall be permitted to be the other disconnecting means. 

*(D)* *Other Occupancies.* In other occupancies,the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker, where readily accessible for servicing of the appliance, shall be permitted as the other disconnecting means.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

The breaker lock is required so that the circuit breaker can be locked in the open position.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

I always cord and plug connect them. I just buy appliace pig tails at the supply house. It's how it's done around here. Might be a WA code amendment or they might just let it go because it's a better install. NM hardwired doesn't look very professional to me.


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## I_get_shocked (Apr 6, 2009)

HARRY304E said:


> We do that up here in a new rough kitchen we put the dishwasher switch on the counter space.


A HO bought a house and the existing dishwasher wasnt working so he bought a new one ($$) and had a plumber install it 

When it still wasnt working he placed a service call and the problem was that an electrician installed the disconnect on the counterspace and it wasn't intuitive enough for him to check there.

I like the switchbox in the cabinet idea w/ mc whip


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

nitro71 said:


> I always cord and plug connect them. I just buy appliace pig tails at the supply house.


Just so you know, the cord you use is required to be specifically listed in the instruction manual.

You are not supposed to use a GE cord on a Maytag dishwasher. 

This is a UL listing issue and an inspector could use 110.3(B) to fail the install.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Around here, we install a duplex receptacle under the sink with one side connected to a switch for the disposal and the other side hot for the dishwasher. They are fed with a two pole 20 amp breaker. If the DW or disposal does not come with a cord, one magically appears and gets installed. :thumbsup:


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

BBQ said:


> Just so you know, the cord you use is required to be specifically listed in the instruction manual.
> 
> You are not supposed to use a GE cord on a Maytag dishwasher.
> 
> This is a UL listing issue and an inspector could use 110.3(B) to fail the install.


No problem with mixing GE with Maytag as I use generic ones :thumbup: I know you're not suposed to per NEC but it's how it's done here and I prefer it.


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## BEAMEUP (Sep 19, 2008)

I have always hardwired them, and leave 10'-15' of wire behind the DW so you can pull it out and take it across the kitchen if you needed to without having to unhook the DW ( because sometimes you want to service the DW with the power on so you can trouble shoot the darn thing)


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## rexowner (Apr 12, 2008)

jrannis said:


> Around here, we install a duplex receptacle under the sink with one side connected to a switch for the disposal and the other side hot for the dishwasher. They are fed with a two pole 20 amp breaker. If the DW or disposal does not come with a cord, one magically appears and gets installed. :thumbsup:


Do the same thing, unless the dishwasher is around the corner, like
one house this week. Hardwired that with switch under sink.

Why not 15 amp? Do you come across many D/D's that require 20
amp?


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

nitro71 said:


> I always cord and plug connect them. I just buy appliace pig tails at the supply house. It's how it's done around here. Might be a WA code amendment or they might just let it go because it's a better install. NM hardwired doesn't look very professional to me.


I know it's only nickels and dimes, but I have to say that the breaker lock is comparatively less than a single receptacle and 4' square box. And the labor cost there's just no comparison. I used to do the single receptacle and appliance cord thing too, not anymore though. :no:


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Thing is that NM isn't meant to be a flexible wiring method. I do agree on cost. 

Just to be sure, the consensus is that if the DW manual calls for a factory cord then that's what you have to use, NEC wise, otherwise it's legitament to use a appliance cord.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

When I worked in Michigan every dishwasher was hardwired, then we started installing breaker locks on that circuit in the late 90's, when I moved to California every single dishwasher I've seen is cord and plug connected to a half hot plug that controls the disposal


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

nitro71 said:


> Thing is that NM isn't meant to be a flexible wiring method. I do agree on cost.
> 
> Just to be sure, the consensus is that if the DW manual calls for a factory cord then that's what you have to use, NEC wise, otherwise it's legitament to use a appliance cord.


Absolutely. The only DW manufacturer that I know that supplies a cord is Bosch.


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## [email protected] (Mar 6, 2011)

Never seen a dw hardwired with romex always an appliance cord with a switched plug under the sink for the disp. Break the tab and just unplug it or plug it in WTF


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> Absolutely. The only DW manufacturer that I know that supplies a cord is Bosch.


My bosch dishwasher didn't come with a cord. What gives?


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## kevmanTA (Jul 20, 2010)

Any dishwashers around here are all hard wired.. I've only seen garburators with the receptacle.


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## ElectricJoeNJ (Feb 24, 2011)

*Cord and Plug*

I always wired DW with a cord and plug. I would get about 10 feet of SJ 12-3 cord with a male plug. At rough i would install the outlet in a handy or 1900 box under the sink. I NEVER failed an inspection for doing it this way. I honestly cant see how its against code connecting SJ cord to a dishwasher. They have a built in j-box with 1/2" KO, what difference does it make connecting romex or SJ cord to the dishwasher. The only arguement i could see brought up is the placement of an outlet under the sink.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

ElectricJoeNJ said:


> I always wired DW with a cord and plug. I would get about 10 feet of SJ 12-3 cord with a male plug. At rough i would install the outlet in a handy or 1900 box under the sink. I NEVER failed an inspection for doing it this way. I honestly cant see how its against code connecting SJ cord to a dishwasher. They have a built in j-box with 1/2" KO, what difference does it make connecting romex or SJ cord to the dishwasher. The only arguement i could see brought up is the placement of an outlet under the sink.


Just because you passed inspection does not make it code compliant. Read art.422.16(B)(2)



> (2) Built-in Dishwashers and Trash Compactors. Built-in dishwashers and trash compactors shall be permitted to be *cord-and-plug-connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer *where all of the following conditions are met:
> (1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a grounding-type attachment plug.
> Exception: A listed dishwasher or trash compactor distinctly marked to identify it as protected by a system of double insulation, or its equivalent, shall not be required to be terminated with a grounding-type attachment plug.
> (2) *The length of the cord shall be 0.9 m to 1.2 m (3 ft to 4 ft) measured from the face of the attachment plug to the plane of the rear of the appliance. *
> ...


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

What is so hazardous about a dishwasher that is not also present with electric cooktops?? :blink:

It makes no sense to require only one piece of kitchen equipment to be mandated with a circuit breaker lock and not ALL kitchen appliances that are hard wired..


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> What is so hazardous about a dishwasher that is not also present with electric cooktops?? :blink:
> 
> It makes no sense to require only one piece of kitchen equipment to be mandated with a circuit breaker lock and not ALL kitchen appliances that are hard wired..


All kitchen appliances require some sort of disconnecting means.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

BBQ said:


> All kitchen appliances require some sort of disconnecting means.


But does a cooktop require a breaker lock if hard wired??


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## M7B (Dec 27, 2010)

*Oven*

Good Question. I've never seen an inspector make you put a breaker lock on a double oven's that are hardwired?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

B4T said:


> But does a cooktop require a breaker lock if hard wired??


imo, yes, but it is never enforced.


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## Salvatoreg02 (Feb 26, 2011)

manchestersparky said:


> If you go with a breaker lock keep in mind it needs to be the type that is permanently attached to the breaker with or without the lock installed. A lockout /tag out device does not qualify
> 
> Lets look at 422.34
> 422.34 Unit Switch(es) as Disconnecting Means.
> ...


I'm glad someone knows what they are talking about. 

So cord 12/3 awg with a plug attached to it as always been a acceptable means of disconnect. Stop making the issue more difficult then it is...THANK YOU!!!!


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Salvatoreg02 said:


> I'm glad someone knows what they are talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

B4T said:


> But does a cooktop require a breaker lock if hard wired??


Maybe if it had a motor in it..:whistling2:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

jrannis said:


> Maybe if it had a motor in it..:whistling2:


Regardless of a motor or not, the NEC requires disconnecting means for it.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

BBQ said:


> Regardless of a motor or not, the NEC requires disconnecting means for it.


A cooktop? Those usually come with a greenfield whip here.


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

jrannis said:


> A cooktop? Those usually come with a greenfield whip here.


 As long as the appliance is not over 300V or 1/8HP the overcurrent device can serve as the disconnct means and does not need to be within site of the appliance. 422.31(A)
Their are some a$$holes on this forum who like to play gotcha so they will make a statement but not reference the code section hoping someone will say they are wrong and they can get a feeling of superiority don't fall for the trap simply look it up in the code. I will always try and site the code reference as I do not have the need to tear someone else down to build myself up and it makes it much easier for all of us to advance our knowledge.:thumbsup:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Mr Rewire said:


> As long as the appliance is not over 300V or 1/8HP the overcurrent device can serve as the disconnct means and does not need to be within site of the appliance. 422.31(A)


A cooktop is well over 300*VA* so 422.31(A) does not apply to cooktops.

422.31(B) will apply to a cooktop and it also allows using the breaker as the disconnecting means ....... as long as it is in sight or has a loookout device installed at the breaker that remains there with or without the lock in place.





> Their are some a$$holes on this forum who like to play gotcha so they will make a statement but not reference the code section hoping someone will say they are wrong and they can get a feeling of superiority don't fall for the trap simply look it up in the code.



I provided the code references, would you like me to post the code text as well?



> I will always try and site the code reference as I do not have the need to tear someone else down to build myself up and it makes it much easier for all of us to advance our knowledge.:thumbsup:


Ah ... you just did what you said should not be done. :laughing::laughing:


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I can honestly say that I have never ever read the dishwasher manual.
I wire them both ways(just use whichever is easier at the time) although lately they have been much more cord and plug connected.
I like that way because usually I can put the cord on in the garage and leave the rest to the plumber.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

There was a time when we used to see residential air handler units plugged into a 50 amp outlet in Palm Beach County. Also saw a few cord connected water heaters up there too.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

jrannis said:


> There was a time when we used to see residential air handler units plugged into a 50 amp outlet in Palm Beach County. Also saw a few cord connected water heaters up there too.


Very likely both of those installations are NEC violations ...... at least at this point, maybe not in the past.


I will post the code section. 




> *422.16 Flexible Cords.
> (A) General.* Flexible cord shall be permitted (1) for the
> connection of appliances to facilitate their frequent interchange
> or to prevent the transmission of noise or vibration or
> ...


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## rexowner (Apr 12, 2008)

BBQ said:


> 422.16...


I have wondered about this section when I have installed gas furnaces
where the instructions say you can use a cord and plug connection. It
sounds to me like this a cord and plug is technically a code violation of
this section, as I don't think the vibration or frequent interchange
arguments apply, even if the instructions said it was OK.

I might be missing something, am I right this is a violation? Thx.


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## raider1 (Jan 22, 2007)

rexowner said:


> I have wondered about this section when I have installed gas furnaces
> where the instructions say you can use a cord and plug connection. It
> sounds to me like this a cord and plug is technically a code violation of
> this section, as I don't think the vibration or frequent interchange
> ...


If the installation instructions allow cord and plug connection then 400.7(A)(8) may apply provided that the furnace fastening means and mechanical connections are specifically designed to permit ready removal.

Chris


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

BBQ said:


> A cooktop is well over 300*VA* so 422.31(A) does not apply to cooktops.
> 
> 422.31(B) will apply to a cooktop and it also allows using the breaker as the disconnecting means ....... as long as it is in sight or has a loookout device installed at the breaker that remains there with or without the lock in place.


 see how much nicer it is for those who read thease posts to have at minimum a code reference and you don't come off acting like a total d*ck.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Mr Rewire said:


> see how much nicer it is for those who read thease posts to have at minimum a code reference and you don't come off acting like a total d*ck.


Yeah, I don't want to be taking your job, you have got being an asshole down much better than I.:thumbsup:


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

BBQ said:


> Yeah, I don't want to be taking your job, you have got being an asshole down much better than I.:thumbsup:


 You are getting better for now you are just half assed:jester:


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## Salvatoreg02 (Feb 26, 2011)

This conversation is way to long. The simple answer hear is that this installation is in a single family dwelling. Flexible cords is what were talking about. So, 422.16 a or b can apply
If you use the method above and the rec is not readily accessible, then some sort of switch on the countertop shall be permitted


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## gnxtc2 (Feb 21, 2011)

nitro71 said:


> I always cord and plug connect them. I just buy appliace pig tails at the supply house. It's how it's done around here. Might be a WA code amendment or they might just let it go because it's a better install. NM hardwired doesn't look very professional to me.





ElectricJoeNJ said:


> I always wired DW with a cord and plug. I would get about 10 feet of SJ 12-3 cord with a male plug. At rough i would install the outlet in a handy or 1900 box under the sink. I NEVER failed an inspection for doing it this way. I honestly cant see how its against code connecting SJ cord to a dishwasher. They have a built in j-box with 1/2" KO, what difference does it make connecting romex or SJ cord to the dishwasher. The only arguement i could see brought up is the placement of an outlet under the sink.


I don't think the appliance pig tails and SJ cord are approved to be ran through cabinets, don't have code book in front of me. In my area of NJ, the inspectors allow the use of SO cord to be ran through the cabinets. And install a single outlet under the sink for the DW.

Billy T.
[email protected]


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

gnxtc2 said:


> I don't think the appliance pig tails and SJ cord are approved to be ran through cabinets,
> 
> Billy T.
> [email protected]


The NEC does not prohibit running cord through cabinets, 400.8 NEC 2011. But, I guess, an argument can be made to "Where subject to physical damage." 400.8(7)


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Just because you passed inspection does not make it code compliant. Read art.422.16(B)(2)


I was just about to post this article. 

The cord length must be between 3-4'.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

Roger123 said:


> The NEC does not prohibit running cord through cabinets, 400.8 NEC 2011. But, I guess, an argument can be made to "Where subject to physical damage." 400.8(7)


 Unless your wrecklessly throwing sharp knives under the sink cabinet I would'nt consider under the sink a dangerous or rough place..


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

captkirk said:


> Unless your wrecklessly throwing sharp knives under the sink cabinet I would'nt consider under the sink a dangerous or rough place..


Agreed, I not making the argument that it is.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

Since I've been in the trade (1973), diswasher/disposals have *always *been done the same way. 

20A home run to the disposal switch box, 12/3 to a 1/2 switched recep under the sink cabinet where both DW and disp are plugged in. Electricians provide and install the pigtails, preferably before installation.

I still see a _few_ hard wired dishwashers from the 60's.

PS. I've *never* read the installation instuctions on a DW or disp.


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## rexowner (Apr 12, 2008)

220/221 said:


> Since I've been in the trade (1973), diswasher/disposals have *always *been done the same way.
> 
> 20A home run to the disposal switch box, 12/3 to a 1/2 switched recep under the sink cabinet where both DW and disp are plugged in.


Why not a 15A circuit with a 14/3? 

It's not part of the wall, countertop or refrig receptacles, and none of D/D's
I've ever seen require 20A.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

rexowner said:


> Why not a 15A circuit with a 14/3?
> 
> It's not part of the wall, countertop or refrig receptacles, and none of D/D's
> I've ever seen require 20A.


Beats me. On the seventh day (of September, 1970), God looked down on AZ and said, "let there be a 20A circuit for for every diswasher/disposals in the land".

I have never even looked at the amperage on a dishwasher or disposal.

DW has a heating element in it so I assumed it draws some amps. Never bothered to look.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

220/221 said:


> I have never even looked at the amperage on a dishwasher or disposal.
> 
> DW has a heating element in it so I assumed it draws some amps. Never bothered to look.



They run anywhere from 12 amps and less. Of course there are larger units but the basic household units are probably 10 amps on average.


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