# Union Apprentice Tool Questions



## FormerGeek (Apr 14, 2013)

Hello! I'm a former IT person looking to switch to the electrical trade at age 33. I put in an application at my local and probably won't take the aptitude test for at least a month, they were doing their next test the day after I applied so there was no way I could get in. I guess it is a small local, they take applications year round and there was only a handful of people signed up for that testing period.

Anyway, i'm researching the tools I need to buy in case I get into the apprenticeship program, here is the list that was provided to me but it is kind of vague, I'm hoping you guys could give me some insight. Requirements are American Made, so mostly Klein I guess. The apprenticeship program is for commercial electrician in a highly rural area.

1. Knife (utility? pocket? Rambo?)
2. Pencil (#2?)
3. Six Foot Rule/Tape Measure
4. Pliers -- Cutting
5. Pliers -- Channel Locks
6. Screw Drivers (what sizes?)
7. Hammers
8. Small roto-splitter (what brand?)
9. Magnetic Bit Holder (i'm not quite sure what they mean by this)
10. Tap Handle to 1/4" (what sizes would this include? What brands?)
11. Allen Wrenches (what sizes? I probably have keys, but would like some T's)
12. Hacksaw Frame
13. Wire Stripper (Klien yellow spring one seems popular)
14. Level -- small
15. Plumb Bob (what brand?)(
16. Square
17. Tester up to 600v (I'm familiar with fluke for IT stuff, which model would be good? I saw at least four popular ones and i'm not sure which I would need)
18. Adjustable wrench up to 10"
19. Center Punch (Brand?)
20. Tool box or tool pouch 

I have craftsman stuff that I purchased about 8 years ago for a lot of numbers 1-8, they say made in the USA but I keep hearing that craftsman is not made in the USA? Regardless i'd like to get new stuff and use those if something goes missing as an emergency backup.

I see a lot of people using tool pouches/boxes and some people using belts. Do people carry the bags around to each spot in a building that they are working, or is the tool belt assumed in addition to the tool bag/pouch? 

Why aren't hard hat / safety glasses listed, are they usually provided? Or are they going to be on some other list?

It says I have to have all of these in my possession when I start my first on the job training assignment. They made it sound like that would probably be about two months, but I understand that it could also be never at this point in the process. I'm a reasonably smart fellow so I have no doubts about doing well on the aptitude test.

Finally, what kind of hazing should I expect? I see the wire stretcher gag is common. Help me not get stuck walking around looking like a jackass. Also is it true I have to get coffee for everybody?


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## eejack (Jul 14, 2012)

Welcome to the site.

It all depends upon what kind of site you are on and what kind of work you will be doing.

Klein and Craftsman are safe bets, inexpensive and good starter tools. Stanley razor knives are very common. Just don't go nuts tooling up until you get to work.

PPE ( Personal Protective Equipment ) is always supplied by the contractor. I prefer my own stuff so I bring it, but go with what they give you.

Most folks carry a mixture of boxes, bags and belts - again, it depends.

A lot of what you end up carrying fits into that whole...depends on what you are doing category.

Hazing?

If you are pleasant you should be fine. Construction sites are verbally brutal, but a little backbone and a sense of humor goes a long way. Show up everyday, on time and sober and you avoid all the common problems.

Usually the apprentice with the least experience goes for coffee. You don't buy it, the journeymen pay for it, but you go, and do not screw up the break order.

If you get to take scrap copper ( some sites allow it ) then you would be obligated to purchase break for the crew on occasion.

Best of luck.


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## ilikepez (Mar 24, 2011)

Fluke T+ or T+pro would be fine for you. I also recommend a non-contact voltage detector.

Probably a carpenters pencil and maybe some regular ones, whatever you like to use.

Something like the Klein 7 piece journeymans set should cover you pretty well as far as screwdrivers go. 

A magnetic bit holder is the peice that goes into a drill and lets you use small bits with the drill. 

I would just take a set of hex keys that go up to 3/8ths an inch, you probably won't need t-handles for a while. 

Anyway that should get you more than adequately started. Upgrade as you go along and figure out what you need to have.


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## Daniel Case (Dec 27, 2012)

More then a six foot tape measure


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## Acadian9 (Jun 6, 2009)

FormerGeek said:


> 9. Magnetic Bit Holder (i'm not quite sure what they mean by this)


It holds screwdriver bits for attachment to a drill. It's something that the contractors should be supplying so I wouldn't get it if I were you.


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## bubb_tubbs (Apr 15, 2012)

Acadian9 said:


> It holds screwdriver bits for attachment to a drill. It's something that the contractors should be supplying so I wouldn't get it if I were you.


Anybody else really hate these?

I've always loathed them and carry 3" and 6" versions of all 3 square drives and a #2 phillips. Beats having a magnetic tip that picks up all the damn shavings on scissor lifts.


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## mk2munky (Oct 31, 2012)

1. Knife (utility? pocket? Rambo?)
Utility
2. Pencil (#2?)
Whatever, just have something to write with
3. Six Foot Rule/Tape Measure
4. Pliers -- Cutting
5. Pliers -- Channel Locks
6. Screw Drivers (what sizes?)
Flat and Phillips minimum. A lot of people use combination screwdrivers, 11-in-1 or whatever
7. Hammers
8. Small roto-splitter (what brand?)
I have a Greenlee, provided by my contractor
9. Magnetic Bit Holder (i'm not quite sure what they mean by this)
10. Tap Handle to 1/4" (what sizes would this include? What brands?)
I never use a tap, but they sure come in handy when you need one.
11. Allen Wrenches (what sizes? I probably have keys, but would like some T's)
12. Hacksaw Frame
13. Wire Stripper (Klien yellow spring one seems popular)
I have the Klein Curve ones, blue grips
14. Level -- small
15. Plumb Bob (what brand?)(
16. Square
17. Tester up to 600v (I'm familiar with fluke for IT stuff, which model would be good? I saw at least four popular ones and i'm not sure which I would need)
I would start with a non contact detector, target that full multimeter
18. Adjustable wrench up to 10"
19. Center Punch (Brand?)
20. Tool box or tool pouch
I have a bag and pouch. I outfit the pouch for whatever task I'm performing.

Klein isn't entirely made in America anymore. Try to buy American, but buy from whoever makes the best tools that will help you do a better job.

What local are you applying to?


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## FormerGeek (Apr 14, 2013)

Local 24


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

become a c card if you are prior IT


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## FormerGeek (Apr 14, 2013)

mikeh32 said:


> become a c card if you are prior IT


I'm having trouble finding out what that means, is it like network/telephone wiring?


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

c card is low voltage or VDV

With a solid background in IT, also knowing the low voltage side is a huge plus


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## FormerGeek (Apr 14, 2013)

mikeh32 said:


> c card is low voltage or VDV
> 
> With a solid background in IT, also knowing the low voltage side is a huge plus


Ah thanks, they do have a three year apprenticeship for that I think, but it would be a 150ish mile round trip every day to the other hall. Where I live it is just the five year commercial program. I wish it was offered over here though...


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## Acadian9 (Jun 6, 2009)

bubb_tubbs said:


> Anybody else really hate these?
> 
> I've always loathed them and carry 3" and 6" versions of all 3 square drives and a #2 phillips. Beats having a magnetic tip that picks up all the damn shavings on scissor lifts.


I carry 2 Picquic bits in my pocket (#1 square and #2 square mainly for installing plugs and switches) and use a 6" #2 PH for installing slab boxes to the deck (i magnetized it to hold drywall screws) and use a bit holder that locks the small bits in place when installing the boxes on stud walls.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Tap wrench












You won't need to go out and get a fancy one like a Starrett or anything. An irwin one from a big box will work.


For a tester get a T5-1000 1AC kit


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## halfamp (Jul 16, 2012)

Get a fluke T5 like everyone said

A 1/4" blade straight screwdriver
Kleins / linesmans pliers
*****
Strippers
Tape measure
Tool belt

That's enough to get you started. As you work, you'll notice yourself borrowing tools you don't have. If you need to borrow it constantly, you need your own. 

Further down the road, (couple years time in the trade) if you've borrowed a tool more than 3 times you should have your own.


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## dougmedic (Dec 10, 2012)

Acadian9 said:


> I carry 2 Picquic bits in my pocket (#1 square and #2 square mainly for installing plugs and switches) and use a 6"...


...ummmm.... you mean a #6 and #8 "Robertson", don't you? :laughing:
Or dont they call 'em by their prper names down in Hogtown anymore?

Jus' jokin'!

Doug
(Good Canadian boy from the Beaches...)


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## KDC (Oct 19, 2012)

dougmedic said:


> ...ummmm.... you mean a #6 and #8 "Robertson", don't you? :laughing:
> Or dont they call 'em by their prper names down in Hogtown anymore?
> 
> Jus' jokin'!
> ...


Bah to both of you. They're Green Robby and Red Robby :whistling2:


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## Acadian9 (Jun 6, 2009)

dougmedic said:


> ...ummmm.... you mean a #6 and #8 "Robertson", don't you? :laughing:
> Or dont they call 'em by their prper names down in Hogtown anymore?
> 
> Jus' jokin'!
> ...


Have you ever seen a square screwdriver with a #6 or a #8 marked on it? :laughing:


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## jman814 (Sep 28, 2011)

Screwdrivers - #1,#2,#3 Phillips & Square...get them both...many electrical devices, breakers and fittings work best with the square tip, but plenty of boxes still only have phillips screws. Get a 3/16" and 1/4" cabinet tip driver (slotted) 3/16" is good for wall plates since its narrower than the screw...I like the new klein demolition driver so i don't use my others as a beater. Has held up well to the abuse. 
Oh...add a conduit reamer...
Welcome to the trade!


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## bubb_tubbs (Apr 15, 2012)

Acadian9 said:


> Have you ever seen a square screwdriver with a #6 or a #8 marked on it? :laughing:


I'm interested to know if the designation came from the typical screw gauge or if the screw gauge came from the driver size.


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## dougmedic (Dec 10, 2012)

bubb_tubbs said:


> I'm interested to know if the designation came from the typical screw gauge or if the screw gauge came from the driver size.


All the journeymen I work with use the screw-size to designate the tip size. Confused the heck out of me at first... lol :laughing:


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## bubb_tubbs (Apr 15, 2012)

dougmedic said:


> All the journeymen I work with use the screw-size to designate the tip size. Confused the heck out of me at first... lol :laughing:


Same with me, though I ignored them in lieu of the official designation of #1, 2 and 3 square recess. I don't even call them Robertsons.


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## Acadian9 (Jun 6, 2009)

bubb_tubbs said:


> Same with me, though I ignored them in lieu of the official designation of #1, 2 and 3 square recess. I don't even call them Robertsons.


Most screwdrivers (square) are actually square and not Robertson, but majority of people I've worked with refer to it as Robertson regardless. My Wiha and Felo screwdrivers are technically square driver, but I refer to them as (green robby, red robby, black robby.) Never had a use for the "yellow robby though.

Some people refer to the screwdriver by the size screw they're for, but it seems to be a mostly western thing. I don't hear it over here much. Maybe once or twice?


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

Daniel Case said:


> More then a six foot tape measure


he's probably referring to a red end.


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## super33 (Aug 10, 2012)

Don't buy an expensive tester. Get a solonoid type (known as a wiggy). The contractor should provide anything more fancy than that.


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## mk2munky (Oct 31, 2012)

super33 said:


> Don't buy an expensive tester. Get a solonoid type (known as a wiggy). The contractor should provide anything more fancy than that.


I agree. Just get a wiggy and a non-contact, pen-type voltage detector. When you get more into it you can get a multimeter with all the bells and whistles. We're not even supposed to work on live circuits in my apprenticeship, so theoretically you should a tick tester is all you should need. I'm still waiting to get a multimeter as the bed presents itself.


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## Kingstud (Apr 5, 2013)

when you buy your linesman pliers make sure they have tape puller and crimper, I bought 9" kleins when I was working as a carpenter, my first electricians job was sad to learn those features were available (and needed). I just ordered knipex replacements and the ad said it had those features but just got em and still don't have. lol

carpenter pencils for layout, Sharpies for marking wires.
knife, I like my big fatmax extreme with Lenox blades but then again I'm a carpenter
fatmax 25' and a Tajima 16' tape measure
Hammer I'm very attached to my Dalluge ax handle 21 oz, dont buy anything heavier. Vaughn or stiletto also
torpedo level, magnetic Stabila is cadillac, Empire is just as good but not gucci, I also have a fatmax
plumb bob, brass with a string, I've made do with a stack of washers jobsite cord in a pinch.
Square I use both a small speed square and an adjustable.
hacksaw fatmax, lenox blades
I dont use those magnetic tips, I have one with a locking collar like a quick release chuck. I use the bosch gold bits in it everything else wears out too fast or shatters with impact driver
thats the stuff in my wheelhouse I'm comfortable making reccomendations on
oh yeah needle nose, you'll need em


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## FormerGeek (Apr 14, 2013)

Kingstud said:


> when you buy your linesman pliers make sure they have tape puller and crimper, I bought 9" kleins when I was working as a carpenter, my first electricians job was sad to learn those features were available (and needed). I just ordered knipex replacements and the ad said it had those features but just got em and still don't have. lol
> 
> carpenter pencils for layout, Sharpies for marking wires.
> knife, I like my big fatmax extreme with Lenox blades but then again I'm a carpenter
> ...


What weight plumb bob would you suggest? 8? 16?


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## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

FormerGeek said:


> What weight plumb bob would you suggest? 8? 16?


Neither , a laser bob is a hell of a lot easier ! Not sure that's on the IBEW tool list , but I use mine all the time .


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## FormerGeek (Apr 14, 2013)

drumnut08 said:


> Neither , a laser bob is a hell of a lot easier ! Not sure that's on the IBEW tool list , but I use mine all the time .


Just days plumb bob


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## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

FormerGeek said:


> Just days plumb bob


? Lasers are amazingly accurate and quick . In the time you get a regular brass plumb bob to settle down I can have numerous locations layed out . I'd get the 8 because any reputable contractor who wants precision is going to give you a laser bob to use anyway .


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## FormerGeek (Apr 14, 2013)

drumnut08 said:


> ? Lasers are amazingly accurate and quick . In the time you get a regular brass plumb bob to settle down I can have numerous locations layed out . I'd get the 8 because any reputable contractor who wants precision is going to give you a laser bob to use anyway .


That's kind of what I was thinking, thanks for the advice


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## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

FormerGeek said:


> That's kind of what I was thinking, thanks for the advice


No problem ! I still carry one , but can't tell you the last time I used it , lol ! Good luck !


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Laser plumb bob for floor to ceiling and manual plumb bob for ceiling to floor or as a plumb reference.


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