# Stripping Romex



## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

Do you either strip the sheath, then put the wire in the box, or push the wire in the box then strip it? Or something else.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Put the wire in the box then strip it.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I use a very dull razor knife, make a circle around the romex, bend to a right angle along the width, and pull off sheath.. then put into box.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I always strip the wire first then insert into box. No way is better than the other just do whatever feels most comfortable to you.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

I do it both ways. Just depends on how I feel that day.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

I usually pull it in, then strip the sheath off with a razor.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Black4Truck said:


> I use a very dull razor knife, make a circle around the romex, bend to a right angle along the width, and pull off sheath.. then put into box.


 I know a guy that uses a dull razor knife also, but he just does a quick swipe on both sides where he wan't it cut and then jurks the insulation off. Works pretty well and quick.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Trying to strip the sheath off in a box is silly, if you ask me. Strip it first, then stuff it in the box.

Exception: Fishing in finished areas. I pull in more than enough to do the job, strip it, then push it back so I'm down to the ¼" showing.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Trying to strip the sheath off in a box is silly, if you ask me. Strip it first, then stuff it in the box.
> 
> Exception: Fishing in finished areas. I pull in more than enough to do the job, strip it, then push it back so I'm down to the ¼" showing.


I started residential in renovations, so this is what I started off doing.

I continued to do it when I worked (briefly) in new residential construction, partially to maintain neat looking runs.

Clearly though, I'm not cut out for residential so maybe my way is backwards.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

william1978 said:


> I know a guy that uses a dull razor knife also, but he just does a quick swipe on both sides where he wan't it cut and then jurks the insulation off. Works pretty well and quick.


yes it is fast and easy.. I use the circle method because it works on 3/wire also :thumbsup:

The quick swipe can cut into the conductors if you are not careful.

I dull a new blade, then use a file to sharpen it and that gives it a serrated edge that cuts really good


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

I like to put it in the box first, then strip the cable leaving about 3" of sheath and only 2" of exposed wire in the box.



Sincerely, Every Homeowner.







I believe that overall production is faster if you strip it in the box. \

When you run the cable to the box, you know which cable it is and where it's going in the box so you can just put it in it's place. If you are going to strip it after, you need to mark it and later, refer to the marks for placement.

I generally strip it outside because A) I learned that way and B) I like to see what I'm doing. Two swipes of the knife and pull off the sheath. I am more careful with 3 wire. I make about a 4" slit, peel the sheath back and follow it around with my knife.

Personally, I like to use a sharp razor knife.


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## Romex Butcher (Apr 12, 2010)

Great question and right in my area of expertise. 

I always put the wire in the box first then strip it, either using a sharp razor blade or the fairly new 90 degree Klein romex strippers. When roughing ("ruffing") I always like to get all the cables run, put in the boxes and stapled. Then the splicing process is much simpler and faster. 

These have made the process a whole lot better for us romex jockeys:


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## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

I used to stick the Romex into the box, then slit it with my hawkbill knife, pull the sheath off the conductors and cut it away where it was still attached to the cable. 

Later I got a free pair of Gardner Bender Circuit Alert Romex strippers. They take the sheath off of 14/2 and 12/2, and strip #14 & #12 wire. They strip sheath super quickly and cleanly so I switched to stripping first then entering the box. I think this way is faster and more precise but I don't see Romex much anymore.


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## Romex Butcher (Apr 12, 2010)

Vintage Sounds said:


> I used to stick the Romex into the box,


I thought you guys called it Loomex in Canada?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

220/221 said:


> .........If you are going to strip it after, you need to mark it and later, refer to the marks for placement...........



So you must use the old-fashioned Sharpie method, huh?

Try using the tool that's right in your hand when you cut it in the first place to mark it.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

Romex Butcher said:


> Great question and right in my area of expertise.
> 
> I always put the wire in the box first then strip it, either using a sharp razor blade or the fairly new 90 degree Klein romex strippers. When roughing ("ruffing") I always like to get all the cables run, put in the boxes and stapled. Then the splicing process is much simpler and faster.
> 
> These have made the process a whole lot better for us romex jockeys:


I use those, I will cut in more boxes faster than someone using another method. Well with the guys I work with, and Im not a resi guy.


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## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

Romex Butcher said:


> I thought you guys called it Loomex in Canada?


I didn't know that was a Canadian thing. Nobody I know calls it Loomex, but I have seen it written on packages of connectors and straps. I think it sounds kind of lame so I probably will never call it that myself. 

The company I started at bought "real" Romex so I was used to calling it by the name on the reel.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Trying to strip the sheath off in a box is silly, if you ask me. Strip it first, then stuff it in the box.
> 
> Exception: Fishing in finished areas. I pull in more than enough to do the job, strip it, then push it back so I'm down to the ¼" showing.


I disagree. 

By putting in the box first and then stripping it, makes for a safer and quicker installation. If you strip around the cable first there's more of a chance of nicking the insulation on an ungrounded conductor and causing a short to ground. I put it in the box then strip it down the middle where the ground is.:donatello:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Sometimes before I put it in the box, sometimes after. Just depends on the phase of the moon.

My method is to slit it lengthwise, right through the middle where the ground wire is. Splay it open, and cut it off where it's still attached to the non-slit jacket. 

Truth be told, I don't much care how a guy strips romex or whether it's in the box first or not. As long as he doesn't take too long or screw it up, it's good with me. Whatever gets the job done.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

> Try using the tool that's right in your hand when you cut it in the first place to mark it.


I use my dikes and squeeze hard enough to indent the wire inside the sheath :thumbsup: .......but I still have to look closely at them.

And....Sharpies are old fashioned? They didn't exist when I started to wire.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> I disagree.
> 
> By putting in the box first and then stripping it, makes for a safer and quicker installation. If you strip around the cable first there's more of a chance of nicking the insulation on an ungrounded conductor and causing a short to ground. I put it in the box then strip it down the middle where the ground is.:donatello:


I can control the pressure on the tool a lot better when it's not crammed into the back of a box.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

220/221 said:


> I use my dikes and squeeze hard enough to indent the wire inside the sheath :thumbsup: .......but I still have to look closely at them.
> 
> And....Sharpies are old fashioned? They didn't exist when I started to wire.


I never said Sharpies are old-fashioned. I said _using Sharpies to mark NM for switch boxes_ is old-fashioned.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

Romex Butcher said:


> Great question and right in my area of expertise.
> 
> I always put the wire in the box first then strip it, either using a sharp razor blade or the fairly new 90 degree Klein romex strippers. When roughing ("ruffing") I always like to get all the cables run, put in the boxes and stapled. Then the splicing process is much simpler and faster.
> 
> These have made the process a whole lot better for us romex jockeys:



Linesmans. strip it first. what the hey are those things (above)? an extra weight in the pouch? After a while,the linesmans are an extension of your hand,like a good machine operator.
I also install staples with my linesmans,whole house- NO!

I will use those nice spring loaded strippers for splice cans on a commercial job. (stripmaster)


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

I don't work with Romex these days, but my favorite method is to poke the cable in the box, use one of the Ideal cable rippers ( the old style sheet metal type ) to split the jacket, then trim off the jacket with my dikes. Very quick clean and uniform. If you are trying to strap the cable to the studs neatly, and strip the jacket before poking the cable in the box, the jacket can end up either too long or too short. There really isn't a right or wrong way, just whatever method someone is accustomed to.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

480sparky said:


> I never said Sharpies are old-fashioned. I said _using Sharpies to mark NM for switch boxes_ is old-fashioned.


That's how I roll; do all my box at trim.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BuzzKill said:


> ..........; do all my box at trim.


Huh?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Huh?


Yeah, I wouldn't pass my rough inspection if I didn't have my box makeup done. Plus, I don't want to clean up all that crap off finish flooring. It's bad enough I have to clean mud out of the boxes on trimout.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

> That's how I roll; do all my box at trim.


April fools day was a cpl weeks ago.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Huh?


word nazi's!
do all my box work at trim out.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> Yeah, I wouldn't pass my rough inspection if I didn't have my box makeup done. Plus, I don't want to clean up all that crap off finish flooring. It's bad enough I have to clean mud out of the boxes on trimout.


that's a good point.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

BuzzKill said:


> That's how I roll; do all my box at trim.


 Here all joints have to be made for rough inspection.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

william1978 said:


> Here all joints have to be made for rough inspection.



Yup, Here too. Only thing at finish is device and plate. (in theory)


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

leland said:


> Yup, Here too. Only thing at finish is device and plate. (in theory)


 Yep.:thumbsup:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I strip all the wires on the rough.. the finish is just rolling out the wires and putting the devices on. :thumbsup:

I use WAGO's for multiple switch boxes and they are installed.. ready for pigtails going to each switch.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

I was taught to skin first , then put it in the box...Lately I've been doing it both ways, it works better when there are plastic clapms on teh box...If you skin after, it seems to not damage the wires when you pull them through...I use that Klein linemans knife that everybody hates to skin ...


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

william1978 said:


> Here all joints have to be made for rough inspection.


well now you are talking permits; at rough, yes, your grounds need to be made up.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

william1978 said:


> Here all joints have to be made for rough inspection.



X3. Not made up = call for another inspection when done.

Even if it wasn't required, I'd rather make up all the boxes during rough anyway. During rough, I'm more likely to remember which 14/3 is for the 3-way, and which 14/3 is for the fan/light.

And if you're under the gun to get the job done, having all the make-up done at rough can save the job.

Here is how I do box make-up. Simple 3-g switch box.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I cut the switch loops on a 45 and write on the skin what it is for.

I cut the wires into the box in the same order as where the switch goes and strip off 1" of black or red insulation.. that identifies a switch.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I generally land all my neutrals and grounds in the panel(s) during rough in too. I'm not sure if I'm require to or not, but it makes me feel better about myself when I do. :laughing:


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> I generally land all my neutrals and grounds in the panel(s) during rough in too. I'm not sure if I'm require to or not, but it makes me feel better about myself when I do. :laughing:


If you think about it, the panel is just a big switch.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> I generally land all my neutrals and grounds in the panel(s) during rough in too. I'm not sure if I'm require to or not, but it makes me feel better about myself when I do. :laughing:



Same here, 'cept for the AFCI neutrals. Those are paired up with scrap sheath with their attendant ungroundeds.:thumbsup:


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

480sparky said:


> Same here, 'cept for the AFCI neutrals. Those are paired up with scrap sheath with their attendant ungroundeds.:thumbsup:


I just twist the two together...


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

I use this stripper and most of the time I strip the wire first and then put it in the box.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

I save the panel for Saturday mornings, I have 'Watson' run around finish up the rough punch list , I sip the coffee and listen to the radio.

Get out soon and play.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

BuzzKill said:


> well now you are talking permits; at rough, yes, your grounds need to be made up.


 And neutrals of MWBC here. And Id all white wire's that are used as hots.:thumbsup:


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

leland said:


> I save the panel for Saturday mornings, I have 'Watson' run around finish up the rough punch list , I sip the coffee and listen to the radio.
> 
> Get out soon and play.


Awesome! I am going to need a $10-15 helper here shortly..."sit in the truck and talk on the phone!" Just like all those a-hole PM's when I was working new construction, looking at them being jealous and all.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

If Im doing a rough wire I strip first using klien romex strippers, then put it in the box. Its the way I was initially taught so it works for me.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

captkirk said:


> If Im doing a rough wire I strip first using klien romex strippers, then put it in the box. Its the way I was initially taught so it works for me.


Good to see "the capt'n" back there, Captain.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

NolaTigaBait said:


> I just twist the two together...



I use the scrap sheath because it's got the circuit name on it.:thumbsup:


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

captkirk said:


> If Im doing a rough wire I strip first using klien romex strippers, then put it in the box. Its the way I was initially taught so it works for me.


that is what I do to, except for I use my klein blue hawkbill knife.


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## danickstr (Mar 21, 2010)

since the staple has to be within 12", it seems that stripping first leads to sometimes missing the 1/4" in the box due to "stapling wander". This convinced me to always strip in da box, making every sheath the right length.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

This is how it is done proffesionally. I make the squeeze with my yellow thingamabob stripper that is in the thread pictures above on page 1, and then push the cable into the box, then pull the sheath off. I then make up the grounds, and push the wires carefully back to the back of the box, and then coil in the bare tail of the gr. wire. Then the drywall monkeys come in and cut it all to ribbons with the roto-zip with no guard. Sometimes they are nice enough to go one step further and also make sure to cut the device mounting holes off completely from the box therefore rendering the whole box and cable useless. :thumbsup:


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## Shado (Jan 1, 2009)

danickstr said:


> since the staple has to be within 12", it seems that stripping first leads to sometimes missing the 1/4" in the box due to "stapling wander". This convinced me to always strip in da box, making every sheath the right length.


True, but, that is what 'stakits' are for....and for a single gang box, there isn't that much wander room...


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## user438 (Jun 6, 2007)

Am I the only one who strips it with needle nose pliers ? Same idea as using a dull razor knife but I use pliers instead. I go around it lightly with cutting edge and then pull sheath off.

For 3 wire I just score it with my pocket knife and pull sheath back ( don't try this at home as your pocket knife needs to be razor sharp)


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## Droid (Dec 23, 2009)

BIGRED said:


> I use this stripper and most of the time I strip the wire first and then put it in the box.


Looks like an alien sex tool.


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## I_get_shocked (Apr 6, 2009)

separate sheathing with romex strippers, then insert in box, then remove sheathing.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

When I started with this company they were the 1st ones that made up the panel 100% at rough-in. Now, I would not do it any other way. All we do is put the cover on at Trim out.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

480sparky said:


> X3. Not made up = call for another inspection when done.
> 
> Even if it wasn't required, I'd rather make up all the boxes during rough anyway. During rough, I'm more likely to remember which 14/3 is for the 3-way, and which 14/3 is for the fan/light.
> 
> ...



Good read, did you make that?

Thats just about how we do it. We always put our hot-in into the left side of the box. Our switches are marked the same way or curled like yours.


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## cdnelectrician (Mar 14, 2008)

I have always put the wire into the box, stapled it, stripped it and then pull it back a bit so I have a 1/4 inch of jacket still in the box and a nice neat loop of romex outside the box just in case. Make up all the connections so all I have to do at trim out is roll out the wires and throw on my devices.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Voltech said:


> When I started with this company they were the 1st ones that made up the panel 100% at rough-in. Now, I would not do it any other way. All we do is put the cover on at Trim out.


 They put in the breakers on the rough?


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

william1978 said:


> They put in the breakers on the rough?


Yes everything. I thought it to be odd to. But it really saves time in the long run.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Voltech said:


> Yes everything. I thought it to be odd to. But it really saves time in the long run.


 How does it save time it should take the same time weather you make up the panel on the rough or on the final. Have you ever had the breakers stolen? Those AFCI breakers are not cheap.:no:


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

william1978 said:


> How does it save time it should take the same time weather you make up the panel on the rough or on the final. Have you ever had the breakers stolen? Those AFCI breakers are not cheap.:no:


No, none stolen that I know of. At that point its on the GC once we are done. We dont rough in until the house is dried in so doors and windows are in.

It saves time by being able to strip the wire, and label the panel. If you land just your neutrals and grounds you have to re label or slide the label back onto the wire. Clean up is a breeze. We also run into a lot of hardwood floors that are made of soft wood. If a guy is not careful and the GC notices you can leave dents and scratches in the floor if you don't throw your scrapes right into the trash. Ever drop your side cutters on bamboo floors?


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

Voltech said:


> When I started with this company they were the 1st ones that made up the panel 100% at rough-in. Now, I would not do it any other way. All we do is put the cover on at Trim out.


Thats how we have always done it, one guy does the panel one guy makes up the rest of the house.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

I would never install breakers in a panel at rough. Two reasons.

1. They'll sprout legs and walk away.
2. Too tempting for some nail-bender / turd herder / tin knocker / paint slobberer / you name it to start turning them on.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

480sparky said:


> I would never install breakers in a panel at rough. Two reasons.
> 
> 1. They'll sprout legs and walk away.
> 2. Too tempting for some nail-bender / turd herder / tin knocker / paint slobberer / you name it to start turning them on.


To my surprise we have never had any walk away that I know of.

As far as people turning them on. The Main has not been made up or 99% installed unless its a flush mount. Its not an issue


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Voltech said:


> To my surprise we have never had any walk away that I know of.
> 
> As far as people turning them on. The Main has not been made up or 99% installed unless its a flush mount. Its not an issue



So you trim out a house with no permanent power?:blink:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

480sparky said:


> So you trim out a house with no permanent power?:blink:


Why is that a problem?? :blink:

You trim out a house and the power is off.. just leave the breakers off and go back after POCO is done.

Wasted trip, but you can't always be a TOOL :no:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Black4Truck said:


> Why is that a problem?? :blink:
> 
> You trim out a house and the power is off.. just leave the breakers off and go back after POCO is done.
> 
> Wasted trip, but you can't always be a TOOL :no:



Not a problem, but another trip, which is just wasted money.

I try to have permanent power on even before I get to my rough-in. I even have custom panel covers to supply temp receps from the permanent service.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

480sparky said:


> I try to have permanent power on even before I get to my rough-in. I even have custom panel covers to supply temp receps from the permanent service.


 Ken could you post a picture of this panel cover?


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Voltech said:


> No, none stolen that I know of. At that point its on the GC once we are done. We dont rough in until the house is dried in so doors and windows are in.
> 
> It saves time by being able to strip the wire, and label the panel. If you land just your neutrals and grounds you have to re label or slide the label back onto the wire. Clean up is a breeze. We also run into a lot of hardwood floors that are made of soft wood. If a guy is not careful and the GC notices you can leave dents and scratches in the floor if you don't throw your scrapes right into the trash. Ever drop your side cutters on bamboo floors?


 I take it that these panels are in the house. Around here they put a lot of the panels in the garage and the garage door is not up yet.


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

480sparky said:


> So you trim out a house with no permanent power?:blink:


 I would be willing to say that 90% of the house's here are trimmed out with no power.


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## IrishRugger (Feb 16, 2009)

I_get_shocked said:


> separate sheathing with romex strippers, then insert in box, then remove sheathing.


 That's how i do it and like MD Shunk I do my box work at rough in in stead of dropping excess wire and sheathing on the floor I drag a garbage barrel from room to room and toss the waste in there much easier to clean up and let's other trades know that you like to work in a clean enviorment.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

william1978 said:


> I would be willing to say that 90% of the house's here are trimmed out with no power.



Ifn' yooz axed me, eyed say dat's dum.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

william1978 said:


> I take it that these panels are in the house. Around here they put a lot of the panels in the garage and the garage door is not up yet.



Yes, most houses here have to meet elevation requirements. Which in most cases is about 10' or as much as 18' above grade.


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## kancerr (Apr 16, 2010)

i use my linemans pliers, put slight pressure on it, give it a twist, pull off, works wonders, only time i dont do this is when finished into a box that is already in a finished wall. dont like havin to carry extra tools...and i find this way to be easiest for me, probably accidently cut into the wire once or twice a year and have to redo it, but very rarely do i mess up, might not be a good way to do it if you're not used to it as you can damage the wire...:thumbsup:


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