# Conduit run... How much time



## Voltron (Sep 14, 2012)

It would look better if you went straight up out of your box then 90 at the height of your other box then lb around the corner, that way all your horizontal conduit is at same elevation. As far as time, depends how nice it is outside and what next job was.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

What's the safety program like on that site? Need a lift to get over that roof?

1 day


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## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

Are you using pre-made bends?

Take a few hours to mount the strut and get it all hung up there but pre-made bends will make it quicker, for me anyway. 1 day is what I'd figure too.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

I am looking at least a day for sure but that number may change a little depending on the wall support type., 

but just want to give you a heads up., If you plan to walk on that roof just becarefull where you step on those tinners .,, some case the span is kinda very light especially if they ran 2X4 flat that can get ya.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

So how long do you think it should take?


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

Voltron said:


> It would look better if you went straight up out of your box then 90 at the height of your other box then lb around the corner, that way all your horizontal conduit is at same elevation. As far as time, depends how nice it is outside and what next job was.


Personally, I like the way he has it laid out because it avoids another pull point. I only use LBs if I absolutely have to. 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## Sblk55 (Sep 8, 2017)

I would have to agree, no LB much easier pull for two people. I would hope that two people could do that job in less then a day. That is as lone as all materials are present and good weather. One inch EMT should be easy, no bought 90's with extra couplings. But that would depend as stated above that strut can be easily attached to buildings and the roof is safe to work on.

Steve


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## Voltron (Sep 14, 2012)

B-Nabs said:


> Personally, I like the way he has it laid out because it avoids another pull point. I only use LBs if I absolutely have to.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


For that reason I agree. I just believe (opinion) it would be more aesthetically pleasing. Not to mention, pulling/pushing that short of distance off a 6'er to the lower box would not be too big of deal.


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## cdslotz (Jun 10, 2008)

I would have to enter that into my estimating software, or take it off and labor the material to find out...


...you should do the same


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I don't think you're going to want to do it as drawn, maybe with one pipe, but not with two. I would definitely go straight up out of the box if it's two conduits. You don't want two conduits protruding past the corner. I would make bends with offsets / shepherd's crooks at that height rather than LBs. If your using communications cables (guessing from the OP's name) and observing the fill ratio rules, they should pull this short distance pretty easily with plenty of lube. 

I'd make sure you have the right fasteners to secure the strut sections to the building. 

I might be nuts compared to what others are saying but I can't see how it should take all day. If I started at 7AM I might be late for lunch but I'd be done at lunch. (Yes, I might use a couple more couplings than a real Michelangelo of pipe, might have a little more waste, but nothing embarassing.)


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Id say a day, unless I fell through the roof of that little shed or whatever it is, then at that point, probably 2 days.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Easy job. Assuming you can drive your van right up to it, you can walk on the shed and there isn't any excessive safety bull chit, done by 2:00 pm. That's me by myself and I'm a slow sonomobitch.

If I can rip out a resi service, install a new one, hang a panel and energize critical circuits in eight hours, this job is a walk in the park.


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

I would do it in one day. NO LB's. Running it just as drawn and kicking the 90 degree bends out to go around the corner. My first thought on strut mounting was 1/4 X 4 toggle bolts. Worst case a larger washer / plate on the inside then 1/4 inch bolts, but that requires another person on the inside.
Question : those 2 buildings, are they physically connected ? If not what about expansion...


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

manchestersparky said:


> I would do it in one day. NO LB's. Running it just as drawn and kicking the 90 degree bends out to go around the corner. My first thought on strut mounting was 1/4 X 4 toggle bolts. Worst case a larger washer / plate on the inside then 1/4 inch bolts, but that requires another person on the inside.
> Question : those 2 buildings, are they physically connected ? If not what about expansion...


90 can take care of that.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

manchestersparky said:


> NO LB's. Running it just as drawn and kicking the 90 degree bends out to go around the corner.


I thought about that but I was not sure if the bend radius of 1" and the thickness of strut would let that lay flat. 

Then I thought about how easy it would be to lay the whole thing out coming out of the top of the enclosure and decided against the kicks.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

My question was also about the connection of the buildings... if they are not connected, then you may need some sort of flexible 90* or some sort of expansion joint near the second box.

Straight up out of the box, 90* to edge, LB around the corner, straight to flexible 90* or rigid straight into the second box or expansion joint then box.

With running two pipes, going this way will look better as you can match your bends and fittings nicely. While I don't like to use fittings if possible, especially on such a short run, I think trying to match up the bends and offsets will be too time consuming and have little value since it is the only pipe in the area.

I can't see it being a day in work, but with all the safety set-up and nausea that goes with it, I would plan for a day; but it would be an very easy day...

Cheers

John


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

This hack artist would probably use PVC and forget about the strut.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

manchestersparky said:


> My first thought on strut mounting was 1/4 X 4 toggle bolts. Worst case a larger washer / plate on the inside then 1/4 inch bolts


I would bring #12 self drilling screws for where you can hit the girders safely and use snaptoggles elsewhere. 


> ...what about expansion...


The expansion of EMT in these lengths is so small I wouldn't worry about it.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Navyguy said:


> My question was also about the connection of the buildings... if they are not connected, then you may need some sort of flexible 90* or some sort of expansion joint near the second box.
> 
> Straight up out of the box, 90* to edge, LB around the corner, straight to flexible 90* or rigid straight into the second box or expansion joint then box.
> 
> ...


Part of the reason I would think about PVC. It has more give than EMT so the 90 can move if there is any movement between the buildings. If you need a strap close to the box, a PVC strap allows the conduit to slide through it. If I used strut with PVC, I would mount it sideways and use normal PVC straps.

Besides that, for me, solvent cement is faster than twisting raintight fittings.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

99cents said:


> Part of the reason I would think about PVC. It has more give than EMT so the 90 can move if there is any movement between the buildings. If you need a strap close to the box, a PVC strap allows the conduit to slide through it. If I used strut with PVC, I would mount it sideways and use normal PVC straps.
> 
> Besides that, for me, solvent cement is faster than twisting raintight fittings.


 
Agreed. I think if I used PVC, I would still put in an expansion joint in the area of the second box to account for building movement. If I also used PVC, then I would also likely use the double 90* bends vice the fittings... once the pipe is heated up you can fit into just about anything pretty easy (especially 1" PVC).

Cheers

John


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

How much mobilization time is the key, in my opinion. Do you have the pipe, fittings, and boxes already at the shop,or do you have to go to supply house, load it up, then drive to. The site, etc. any BS security checks, safety forms, roof access or setup procedures.

Actually running the pipe looks simple.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

splatz said:


> I don't think you're going to want to do it as drawn, maybe with one pipe, but not with two. I would definitely go straight up out of the box if it's two conduits. You don't want two conduits protruding past the corner. I would make bends with offsets / shepherd's crooks at that height rather than LBs. If your using communications cables (guessing from the OP's name) and observing the fill ratio rules, they should pull this short distance pretty easily with plenty of lube.
> 
> I'd make sure you have the right fasteners to secure the strut sections to the building.
> 
> I might be nuts compared to what others are saying but I can't see how it should take all day. If I started at 7AM I might be late for lunch but I'd be done at lunch. (Yes, I might use a couple more couplings than a real Michelangelo of pipe, might have a little more waste, but nothing embarassing.)


I missed that it was two pipes.
You could still do it as laid out:
Top pipe 90 onto same face of wall, bottom pipe 90 with a kick to get around the corner. Then at the upper end (2nd 90) vice versa.

Also I don't think I would bother with strut for this run.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

*Up here in Vermont............*

We would need to run a good 760 ft of shallow galvanized unistrut for that run, cut into 12" pieces and installed square and plumb in order to properly secure it to prevent any damage from static loading. The LB will also have to be drilled out for a 1/2" knock out (threaded also) in order to put in a code required Kenny Clamp since the Code requires Kenny clamps on all outdoor fittings . If you don't believer me about that, I'll provide lots and lots of code articles from the sections about air conditioning and refrigeration for the backup.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

The OP has not run much EMT to speak of.

He's a Low Voltage data-comm kind of guy.

Consequently, this trivial job really will take him all day.

With experience, he'll get a LOT faster. :thumbsup:


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## MXer774 (Sep 1, 2014)

Stop all this nonsense. The exterior run: $1500 in parts. Two men one day. Done. 
Next. 
What's your inside run look like?


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> We would need to run a good 760 ft of shallow galvanized unistrut for that run, cut into 12" pieces and installed square and plumb in order to properly secure it to prevent any damage from static loading. The LB will also have to be drilled out for a 1/2" knock out (threaded also) in order to put in a code required Kenny Clamp since the Code requires Kenny clamps on all outdoor fittings . If you don't believer me about that, I'll provide lots and lots of code articles from the sections about air conditioning and refrigeration for the backup.


And being that this is in California he will have to install stickers on all products installed notifying everyone that they will die of cancer.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> We would need to run a good 760 ft of shallow galvanized unistrut for that run, cut into 12" pieces and installed square and plumb in order to properly secure it to prevent any damage from static loading. The LB will also have to be drilled out for a 1/2" knock out (threaded also) in order to put in a code required Kenny Clamp since the Code requires Kenny clamps on all outdoor fittings . If you don't believer me about that, I'll provide lots and lots of code articles from the sections about air conditioning and refrigeration for the backup.


:laughing::laughing:


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## henderson14 (Oct 23, 2010)

If that is your only project there, 1 day, because I'm not going to work for 6 hours and then travel to a new job in the same day. Otherwise half a day for me assuming you have all your tools and material there and aren't running around. I'm fast though.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Commercial-security said:


> I wanted to throw this out to see what others would estimate.
> 
> This is a small part of a larger project. I have attached a picture below with some notes however let me explain a little bit.
> 
> ...


I would give my guys around 4 hours for this. Maybe 5 if they need a lift.


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## bostonPedro (Nov 14, 2017)

One easy day for one person. I would go up from the lower can and use lbs to turn the corner closer to the small shack building
Mount can on 7/8 strut and conduit on 1 5/8 strut. Conduit strut can be 1 foot long. Might need 4 one foot sections of strut this way. When the lbs turn the corner over the shack it looks like you may need another 3 supports. 1 close to the lbs maybe 3 feet, one in the middle and one close to 90's. Mount higher can on 7/8 strut also and make sure too support the conduit at least 3 feet or less from the can as this is code. 
This is assuming that the shack roof can be walked on. 
Judging from the door you can work off of an 8 foot ladder, bring 2 if its being done by one person so you dont have keep moving the ladder around to level pipe 
Good luck


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