# Self feed bit



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I use a 2 9/16 inch self feed bit to drill a hole through the rim joist for a service entrance conduit. The one I’ve been using is an older basic Milwaukee model.

I see that they make models that you can change the blade out, but they’re not cheap. I was wondering if there’s another model or brand I should be looking at.

I’m also considering using one of those fancy holesaws. 

Sometimes the rim joists are doubled up and there is sheathing on top of it so I am drilling through 5 inches of old and hard wood. I often end up finding a nail or two.

I want something that’s going to cut well and last.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

We always used hole saws and now with the carbide they are a good alternative, IMO. The problem is many of them are just short of 1 1/2" deep so you have to chisel it out. Get a deeper one and it works great.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

Dennis Alwon said:


> We always used hole saws and now with the carbide they are a good alternative, IMO. The problem is many of them are just short of 1 1/2" deep so you have to chisel it out. Get a deeper one and it works great.


That is exactly what I was going to post, a hole saw that is 2 or 2.5 inches deep would be nice. I know some make them, but they never seem to be available when I looked to get one.

https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/DCH0156-G

Cheers
John


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

I just use cheapo 2 ¾" bi-metal hole saw. When it bottoms out, I use a large Daredevil bit with an extension if necessary to clean the slug out. 2-3 passes usually does it.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Give Diablo hole saws a try (you need to get the quick release arbor).


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## NoBot (Oct 12, 2019)

I've had two of the new Milwaukee with changeable blades for about two years.
It's the best self feed bit I've ever owned.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

I think those self feeding fostner bits do great for larger holes. Better than hole saws IMO. 
And they last!! 

Can you buy a large extension bit that will fit the larger bit size? I know I have a large sized 12" extension, but I can't remember if it fits the fostner bits. 

Obviously, that tells you I don't use it much. :vs_laugh:


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

MHElectric said:


> I think those self feeding fostner bits do great for larger holes. Better than hole saws IMO.
> And they last!!
> 
> Can you buy a large extension bit that will fit the larger bit size? I know I have a large sized 12" extension, but I can't remember if it fits the fostner bits.
> ...


They sell large fostner bits with the hex head so you can plug them directly into the Milwaukee quick change chuck type hole hawg. I shop at Industrial Hardware Hawaii for mine. That wood working store also has lots of good bit selection, WoodCraft Store. I have Fostner bits for 2" pipe. I also bought the Spyder hole saw kit from Lowe's . It's kinda funky to drill wood with it, I think it was made for concrete mainly, but it goes right thru so far. I bet that won't last very long before the bit get dull from wood use. I'll let you know if it does.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

Spyder Pro TCT hole saws are the shiznit.

Back in the day, I had pretty good success sharpening self feeding forstner bits. But that's lame.


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## mofos be cray (Nov 14, 2016)

Hole saw and extension bit for the arbour is the way to go.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Try the Spyder hole saws at Lowes, they work well in wood, and you can use the same tool to make holes in block as well. I don't expect them to last long, so buy a spare - they are cheap.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MHElectric said:


> I think those self feeding fostner bits do great for larger holes. Better than hole saws IMO.
> And they last!!
> 
> Can you buy a large extension bit that will fit the larger bit size? I know I have a large sized 12" extension, but I can't remember if it fits the fostner bits.
> ...


Yes, like Mikey said, many of the self feed bits come with a hex shank so that they will fit into quick change chucks and extensions. I look for those shanks on any auger or self feed bit that I buy because I have a 12" extension which uses that.

If I end up with a holesaw for this purpose, I would like to get an arbor that has this shank as well.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Try the Spyder hole saws at Lowes, they work well in wood, and you can use the same tool to make holes in block as well. I don't expect them to last long, so buy a spare - they are cheap.


I don't mind the money, what I really hate is being on a job, wanting to get it done because it's already 90 degrees outside, going to drill the hole, and having the bit dull. Then breaking out the spare and that one dulls too. 

I've had that happen with holesaws, but I have been using the same self-feed bit for about 10 years now. It's got some notches in it, but I might be able to get those out if I learn how to sharpen it correctly. 

That's why I figured maybe the self feed bits with switchable blades is best. But that's when I figured I would consider holesaws. However, it seems like people think they will dull, which is my main thing to avoid.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I don't mind the money, what I really hate is being on a job, wanting to get it done because it's already 90 degrees outside, going to drill the hole, and having the bit dull. Then breaking out the spare and that one dulls too.
> 
> I've had that happen with holesaws, but I have been using the same self-feed bit for about 10 years now. It's got some notches in it, but I might be able to get those out if I learn how to sharpen it correctly.
> 
> That's why I figured maybe the self feed bits with switchable blades is best. But that's when I figured I would consider holesaws. However, it seems like people think they will dull, which is my main thing to avoid.


I think as long as you get the carbide tipped hole saws you'd like them. I remember when I got them I drilled some block right away to see if they really performed, I was skeptical. They went through pretty well. Then I thought I wonder if it's still sharp for wood, drilled a couple 2x6's, still good. I think you'd have to drill a LOT of wood to get the same dulling as a single pass through block. It should cut nails. You'll have a better chance of missing nails though. With a self-feed the thing hits the whole hole, with the hole saw, just the edge. 

You should sharpen that self-feed though. I think with those you want to never touch the bottom surface. It's more like sharpening a chisel than a knife. With the right file it should not be hard to restore the edge. The edge is lifting chips, if you remove material from the bottom, the edge will ride above the wood. 

If you keep that file with the bit, you may find yourself sharpening it for a minute every time you use it. That kind of thing has gone by the wayside since everything became disposable but it's still well worth it with a lot of things.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

Hole saws are cheap enough, you could buy one for every job. Or buy a box of 20.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

CoolWill said:


> Hole saws are cheap enough, you could buy one for every job. Or buy a box of 20.


That’s pretty much the way I did it for all the years that I did service changes as side work. I remember the frustration both from trying to get the slugs out of the hole saws and when the hole saw would stop cutting and I’d have to go get another one hoping that would make it thru. 

The selfie bitch changed that completely.

I said “self feed bit”, but my phone has a mind of it’s own.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

Like I said, I use hole saws all the time. I have a couple of the Lennox diamond hole saws and they cut like butter in brick and block. Much nicer then my SDS for holes up to 1.5 inch. They have a 4" one I was thinking of trying out for exterior lights in brick, but had not purchased yet.

The issue for me is getting the hole saws deep enough so you don't have to snap the slugs out half way through the cut. The other thing is that the mandrel may be larger then some of the smaller sizes of hole saw, so you are stuck at the mandrel too; obviously the larger sizes this is not an issue.

Cheers
John


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Ok, so I will try to sharpen my self feed bit and keep it as a backup, and buy holesaws to use as my main method to try it out. 

Which one should I go for first, the Spyder Pro TCT?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Self feed bits are great. I used them alot but they are a hassle to keep sharp especially after hitting nails. When they are sharp and no nails then you can't beat them. You just have to make sure you back the bit out a lot so it doesn't get stuck in the shavings.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Self feed bits are great. I used them alot but they are a hassle to keep sharp especially after hitting nails. When they are sharp and no nails then you can't beat them. You just have to make sure you back the bit out a lot so it doesn't get stuck in the shavings.


Maybe the Milwaukee is better at removing the chips... I never stop drilling unless I hit a nail and it stops progressing forward.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

HackWork said:


> Ok, so I will try to sharpen my self feed bit and keep it as a backup, and buy holesaws to use as my main method to try it out.
> 
> Which one should I go for first, the Spyder Pro TCT?


I've had them all and that one is best by a mile.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

What's the difference between these?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-2-3-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1001079208
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-2-3-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1000060893

I hate when manufacturers make products that are almost exactly the same with different model numbers, but do not specify the difference.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

Navyguy said:


> Like I said, I use hole saws all the time. I have a couple of the Lennox diamond hole saws and they cut like butter in brick and block. Much nicer then my SDS for holes up to 1.5 inch. They have a 4" one I was thinking of trying out for exterior lights in brick, but had not purchased yet.
> 
> The issue for me is getting the hole saws deep enough so you don't have to snap the slugs out half way through the cut. The other thing is that the mandrel may be larger then some of the smaller sizes of hole saw, so you are stuck at the mandrel too; obviously the larger sizes this is not an issue.
> 
> ...


I searched long and hard for an arbor for small hole saws that had a 7/16" shank so it would work with my quick change extension. I found one, once. Never seen one since. It also came with an adapter that makes it accept the larger hole saws. With this arbor I can drill 1 1/8" and 1 3/8" holes without the arbor limiting the hole depth. 

Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> What's the difference between these?
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-2-3-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1001079208
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-2-3-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1000060893
> ...


I hate that too, and Spyder's web site is horrible and just about useless for getting part numbers etc. One of the worst I have seen. I think the numbers are screwed up on the Lowes site, I know I wasted a trip there for a Spyder that the web site showed in stock but was nowhere to be found. Not even a spot in the rack for it. 

They have three hole saws as far as I can tell: bimetal, carbide tipped (TCT), the TCT cut block 

http://www.spyderproducts.com/tools/tarantula-hole-saws/ 

and tarantula carbide tipped, which are rated for stainless and cast iron

http://www.spyderproducts.com/tools/tarantula-hole-saws/



.


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## joab (Dec 28, 2019)

Since you are a complete Milwaukee fanatic, you should not be even considering a Spyder hole saw.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-BIG-HAWG-Carbide-Hole-Saw-Kit-10-Piece-49-56-9290/305187821

I've had this set for quite a few years. They cut quickly and chew through nails. The only downside I have is that when they do become dull or chipped, they're pretty much impossible to sharpen.


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## mofos be cray (Nov 14, 2016)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Self feed bits are great. I used them alot but they are a hassle to keep sharp especially after hitting nails. When they are sharp and no nails then you can't beat them. You just have to make sure you back the bit out a lot so it doesn't get stuck in the shavings.


I've only found that to be a problem in wet wood. Usually a lot of it like drilling through a pole.


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## Willie B (Jan 31, 2020)

HackWork said:


> I use a 2 9/16 inch self feed bit to drill a hole through the rim joist for a service entrance conduit. The one I’ve been using is an older basic Milwaukee model.
> 
> I see that they make models that you can change the blade out, but they’re not cheap. I was wondering if there’s another model or brand I should be looking at.
> 
> ...



I use Milwaukee hole saw arbors, Milwaukee extensions, and sometimes Milwaukee hole saws.

Selfeeds are reserved for joists where no nails will be found.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

B-Nabs said:


> I searched long and hard for an arbor for small hole saws that had a 7/16" shank so it would work with my quick change extension. I found one, once. Never seen one since. It also came with an adapter that makes it accept the larger hole saws. With this arbor I can drill 1 1/8" and 1 3/8" holes without the arbor limiting the hole depth.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk



Use this all the time: Milwaukee 49-56-7000

https://milwaukeetool.com/products/accessories/49-56-7000


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Use this all the time: Milwaukee 49-56-7000
> 
> https://milwaukeetool.com/products/accessories/49-56-7000


That could be a pain to get off, even if you put a piece of wire between the hole saw and arbor. I like the arbors with the 2 tits that thread forward, easy and fast to change holesaws.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

splatz said:


> I hate that too, and Spyder's web site is horrible and just about useless for getting part numbers etc. One of the worst I have seen. I think the numbers are screwed up on the Lowes site,


Grainger may be the closest. Notice there's only "H" designations if any on the end of the p/n.
https://www.grainger.com/ec/pdf/31LV24_3.pdf


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I can't find it on their web site, but there is a catalog: 



http://www.spyderproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/Spyder-Product-Catalog.pdf


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That could be a pain to get off, even if you put a piece of wire between the hole saw and arbor. I like the arbors with the 2 tits that thread forward, easy and fast to change holesaws.


The small hole saws don't use the pins.

I use this on with a washer between the holesaw and arbor.

It comes off the holesaw easy enough.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

I used to use a self feeding 2 1/8" bit for drilling log homes for single gang boxes. one over the other then chisel out corners and side, worked great and lasted a long time.

I bought a 3 1/2" one for some job ($$$). Thing would like to take your arm off when it binds, want it.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> The small hole saws don't use the pins.
> 
> I use this on with a washer between the holesaw and arbor.
> 
> It comes off the holesaw easy enough.


I didn’t realize that had the smaller threaded mandrel for small holesaw’s.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> I didn’t realize that had the smaller threaded mandrel for small holesaw’s.





B-Nabs said:


> I searched long and hard for an arbor for small hole saws that had a 7/16" shank so it would work with my quick change extension. I found one, once. Never seen one since. It also came with an adapter that makes it accept the larger hole saws. With this arbor I can drill 1 1/8" and 1 3/8" holes without the arbor limiting the hole depth.
> 
> I was just responding to B-nabs inquiry for the small saw mandrel with a 7/16" shank.


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> The problem is many of them are just short of 1 1/2" deep so you have to chisel it out.


but the slug doesn't get stuck in hole saw that way


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

HackWork said:


> What's the difference between these?
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-2-3-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1001079208
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-2-3-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Non-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1000060893
> ...



:vs_mad:


:vs_cool:


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

MHElectric said:


> I think those self feeding fostner bits do great for larger holes. Better than hole saws IMO.
> And they last!!
> 
> Can you buy a large extension bit that will fit the larger bit size? I know I have a large sized 12" extension, but I can't remember if it fits the fostner bits.
> ...


Hey HAX, I found it.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Hacky is gone, thankfully :yes::yes::yes:


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

MTW said:


> Hacky is gone, thankfully :yes::yes::yes:


Get out. I see his avatar is gone.



Damn I miss too much here.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Bruh, 

That dude has more fake accounts than you. He's here somewhere.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

MHElectric said:


> Bruh,
> 
> That dude has more fake accounts than you. He's here somewhere.


*NOBODY* has more troll accounts here than Peter D


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

Helmut said:


> Get out. I see his avatar is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


There was a thread saying RIP to him. It got deleted

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

JoeSparky said:


> *NOBODY* has more troll accounts here than Peter D


:shifty::detective:


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

MTW said:


> :shifty::detective:


Geez, are you next on the rotation? Question a power-hungry thin-skinned liberal here, and the hammer drops :hammer:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

JoeSparky said:


> Geez, are you next on the rotation? Question a power-hungry thin-skinned liberal here, and the hammer drops :hammer:



I've called them communists many times, there's no mystery where I stand


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Use this all the time: Milwaukee 49-56-7000
> 
> 
> 
> https://milwaukeetool.com/products/accessories/49-56-7000


That's the one I have, I've just only found it for sale in a store once. Usually it's the 3/8" shank one I see on display. 

Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

B-Nabs said:


> That's the one I have, I've just only found it for sale in a store once. Usually it's the 3/8" shank one I see on display.


My pneumatic drills and all my extensions are for 7/16" hex shafts so I've stayed with that size accessories whenever possible.


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