# Finishing Undercabinet Lts



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

How I finish UC lights depends on the lights. Puck lights are a different critter to work with than LED strips.


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*strip*

In this case let's say a 12" halogen strip mounted near front of cabinet.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Cletis said:


> In this case let's say a 12" halogen strip mounted near front of cabinet.


I mount mine at the back, I have never wired one up and moved it around to see the the differance.


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Wiremold*

Is that wiremold? I did some test with customers and my guys and we all like the way it spreads light better when toward the front of the cabinet for some reason. Did you just cut wiremold and butt up to jbox??

Reason I"m asking is I had an SOB inspector that wouldn't let us run 1" of NM on bottom of cabinet, so we ran mc for a while there til he retired.


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

Cletis said:


> Is that wiremold? I did some test with customers and my guys and we all like the way it spreads light better when toward the front of the cabinet for some reason. Did you just cut wiremold and butt up to jbox??
> 
> Reason I"m asking is I had an SOB inspector that wouldn't let us run 1" of NM on bottom of cabinet, so we ran mc for a while there til he retired.


An inspector here failed my U/C lights because with a mirror he could see 1/8" of nm. I hate installing puck type lights. Now low volt lights are easier. The lights under my cabinets would fail in a heartbeat. Gotta do something with them before I sell my house.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Cletis said:


> Is that wiremold? I did some test with customers and my guys and we all like the way it spreads light better when toward the front of the cabinet for some reason. Did you just cut wiremold and butt up to jbox??
> 
> Reason I"m asking is I had an SOB inspector that wouldn't let us run 1" of NM on bottom of cabinet, so we ran mc for a while there til he retired.


Wiremold butted up to the fixture. I think it was metal but nonmetallic would be better, and the fittings came with lights. They are 3/8 in connectors as I remember. I think the wiremold was screwed in place. If NM can be run exposed, what did he use as a code ref to fail(none)? Last time I looked, the underside of my cabinets was fairly free from damage:whistling2: These are the worst to work with because they are so thin. No room for wires at all. I have used MC feed from jboxes in the basement. But the NM looks better. Hides easier.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

I always leave the romex exposed. Nobody is ever going to see it.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Peter D said:


> I always leave the romex exposed. Nobody is ever going to see it.


These were pushed forward more than I like.


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

These are my puck lights with a non compliant install.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Service Call said:


> These are my puck lights with a non compliant install.
> 
> 
> View attachment 9170


  Sniff sniff, do I smell smoke?


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

backstay said:


> Sniff sniff, do I smell smoke?


Only when they melt the back of the under cabinet TV.


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

....


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

That is awful. 


JPRO2 said:


>


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

I usualy keep the lights out the width of my tape measure. RIP to all those that have perished from the inch and a half of exposed death wire.  :laughing:


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

Let's see some pictures I'm still learning and new to uc lighting that is the first time I've installed it and that was how I was shown to do it by another journeyman


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I don't use pucks anymore-- too hard to make it compliant-- just use a xenon strips made for undercabinet lighting. It will give an even light.


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

JPRO2 said:


> We stick to that back just to keep it as neat as possible


IMO that's way too far back. Unless the customer wants something different, I center the light over the particular work space. Now if you had a picture under the cabinet on the wall that would be different.


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I don't use pucks anymore-- too hard to make it compliant-- just use a xenon strips made for undercabinet lighting. It will give an even light.


Lowes have some nice ones that have a switch with hi/lo and a silver and black finish that even tilts forward and back.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

electricmanscott said:


> That is awful.


Yeah. I concur.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

electricmanscott said:


> I usualy keep the lights out the width of my tape measure. RIP to all those that have perished from the inch and a half of exposed death wire.  :laughing:


I've left so much deadly exposed romex under cabinets that it would make your head spin. :laughing:


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## kennydmeek (Sep 12, 2009)

Whether Xenon or LED I've always found that just far enough out from the back of the cabinet to get romex and a connector effectively puts out enough light over the counter to make any normal homeowner go ooh and ahh effectively. Had one that wanted me to move them forward after the fact and I nearly clobbered her simply because she took three months to make a decision about anything then would change her mind....They're still to the back.
Like somebody above said...Pucks really can't be compliant in my world....I suppose they're ok in the DIY world...


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

electricmanscott said:


> That is awful.


Well That's funny the customer loved them thanks for your very helpful and constructive input though


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

....


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

What technically is the proper wire for cl II low voltage pucks and led ? I use grey jacket stranded red/black 18 ga signal wire . Used to use 18/2 zipcord.


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## EIR (Sep 16, 2011)

i havent found a good way to mount them yet.if its not the home owner changing lights after the rough in its the cabinet man adding or moving something and just leaving it for the electrician to deal with.


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

What do the Chicago electricians do?


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

usually centering a hole under any given upper accomodates multiple brands of UC Fluor T5 fixtures ~CS~


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Cletis said:


> Is that wiremold? I did some test with customers and my guys and we all like the way it spreads light better when toward the front of the cabinet for some reason. Did you just cut wiremold and butt up to jbox??
> 
> Reason I"m asking is I had an SOB inspector that wouldn't let us run 1" of NM on bottom of cabinet, so we ran mc for a while there til he retired.


That's just an opinion, I like them toward the back to put light patterns on the wall or tile, and no exposed romex. Did you just "decide" to try and do electrical work? I mean, how did you get your training? How did they do it? I can't stand these guy who just wake up one morning and say "hello, I'm an electrical contractor today"


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Shockdoc said:


> What technically is the proper wire for cl II low voltage pucks and led ? I use grey jacket stranded red/black 18 ga signal wire . Used to use 18/2 zipcord.


 It depends on the length and the wattage.

If the wire is in the wall then you must use class 2 wiring but then the wires must also terminate according to chapter 3, ie. jb's- not external splices.


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

Dennis Alwon said:


> If the wire is in the wall then you must use class 2 wiring but then the wires must also terminate according to chapter 3, ie. jb's- not external splices.


Still not convinced about that.


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

For what it's worth the kichler ones showed in a few posts are a PITA to install but every builder and HO likes them. if you want to make the install easier keep them towards the back of the cabinet as they do throw light down and to the front, I also use arlington black button connectors (nm-94 I think) drill the back box with a step bit for connector to fit, even if the romex stub out is not directly in line I usually space the light out about an inch or less to center it under the cabinet. It works slot better than those goofy metal POS connectors they give you, especially for 2 sets of romex. Also for even spacing without a tape measure use a small piece of wood 3/4 to 1" thick as a quick spacer and all your lights will be even. :thumbsup:


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## EIR (Sep 16, 2011)

i put a jbox if possible to avoid two romex in the light that can be a real pain depending what light is used.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

EIR said:


> i put a jbox if possible to avoid two romex in the light that can be a real pain depending what light is used.


Me too, two in some lights is nearly impossible.


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