# Wafer light rough-in plate



## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Will any rough in plate work with any brand? I’m assuming since 4” and 6” are standard sizes then one should work as good as another. 

Several guys have talked about the different plates they like and I’m thinking about this one since it has 2 different sizes. 









4"/6" Rough-In Plate for Round Downlight Accessory


4"/6" - Rough-In - Plate | Eiko Round Downlight Accessory




www.lightbulbs.com





What are you guys using?


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I guess the main reason for the pan in new work is to see to it the drywallers get the holes where you intend them to be. I've had good luck so far. I haven't tried mixing other brands of pans with different manufacturers yet. The Lithonia pan is funny in that its offset, but it does have mounting points for the driver. The Halo is more traditional with the spreader bars and I find its mounting points to be easier to use. Sometimes you can't use the mounting points and the driver ends up on the joist anyway so it doesn't matter.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

nrp3 said:


> I guess the main reason for the pan in new work is to see to it the drywallers get the holes where you intend them to be. I've had good luck so far. I haven't tried mixing other brands of pans with different manufacturers yet. The Lithonia pan is funny in that its offset, but it does have mounting points for the driver. The Halo is more traditional with the spreader bars and I find its mounting points to be easier to use. Sometimes you can't use the mounting points and the driver ends up on the joist anyway so it doesn't matter.


That’s kinda my thoughts too on the Halo pans. Why even use them if they can fit under rafters? That’s the whole point of the wafer lights.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I like the Halo for suspended ceilings.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

We have strapping or fur strips, so we get another 1/2 inch of space so under the joist is even easier. Makes old work much easier too. I'd consider using the Lithonia pans with Halo fixtures provided the hole was the correct size.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Here’s some other options:









Our Products | Lotus LED Lights


Browse our product catalog of super slim recessed LED lights, available for purchase at over 4000 locations in North America.




www.lotusledlights.com







http://www.ideadigitalcontent.com/files/10988/WF6_PAN_R12.jpg


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

That just seems like an awful lot of money for a piece of stamped steel. About 3 years ago we did a job with ones like that and they were around $5

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

I know. But Ive got a couple projects coming up where I need something in place on the rough in, so i can just cone back and zip it open on the trim out.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Lotus lights typically go 4-1/4" and 6-1/4". Them Home Depot ones are 4", 6". I forget the lithonia ones since my supplier dropped the brand a while ago. But I had to buy 4 hole saws all together to get the proper holes , I keep those 4 apart from the rest of my collection so they don't get any nail abuse or perhaps a random cement block puka ..... So I would be careful to order the proper size plate for the same brand you are about to install, it could be a real pain in the okole if the metal trim is 1/4" too small............... or too big for that matter........


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

All the plates I have used (not many) have a 1/2" reveal around the circle cut out so the drywaller is supposed to roto-zip out the hole when he hangs. Thats the main reason I spend the extra dough for them. The sheet rock dust keeps ruining my baseball hats..........


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

macmikeman said:


> Lotus lights typically go 4-1/4" and 6-1/4". Them Home Depot ones are 4", 6". I forget the lithonia ones since my supplier dropped the brand a while ago. But I had to buy 4 hole saws all together to get the proper holes , I keep those 4 apart from the rest of my collection so they don't get any nail abuse or perhaps a random cement block puka ..... So I would be careful to order the proper size plate for the same brand you are about to install, it could be a real pain in the okole if the metal trim is 1/4" too small............... or too big for that matter........


Good call Mike. I haven’t installed any of the lotus lights, so I wouldn’t have know that until it was too late.

I just posted a link to their plates because it came up on a Google search. My supply house doesn’t carry any type of rough in plates yet.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

_What brand of light are you using?_


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Juno


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

My supplier also carries Lithonia too. I guess it just depends on what they have available at the moment.

But mostly Juno


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Whoops.......


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I think Macs right, pay close attention to dimensions.


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

MHElectric said:


> My supplier also carries Lithonia too. I guess it just depends on what they have available at the moment.
> 
> But mostly Juno


Aren't they the same thing? We used to get Lithonia, and when we ordered more we got Juno. They are both the WF4/6 part numbers.

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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Forge Boyz said:


> Aren't they the same thing? We used to get Lithonia, and when we ordered more we got Juno. They are both the WF4/6 part numbers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


Good question, I dont know. 

I do know the Juno has 5 different color settings while the Lithonia only has 3


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

MHElectric said:


> Good question, I dont know.
> 
> I do know the Juno has 5 different color settings while the Lithonia only has 3


I just assumed that is a next generation thing. Can you still get the Lithonia? I just assumed it was a branding change.

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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Forge Boyz said:


> I just assumed that is a next generation thing. Can you still get the Lithonia? I just assumed it was a branding change.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


My supply house pulls both of the shelf. No rhyme or reason. They look very similar

I imagine everybody is trying to stock a few brands with all the supply issues right more.


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## ohm it hertz (Dec 2, 2020)

Forge Boyz said:


> Aren't they the same thing? We used to get Lithonia, and when we ordered more we got Juno. They are both the WF4/6 part numbers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


They're the same unit just different packaging. I've had compatibility issues with various dimmers and trade sizes between their own wafers (mixing 4" and 6"). I switched to NDR and haven't looked back.

Anyone else tend to leave 2' whips coiled above hard lids and drill their own holes? I find it easier to land them exactly where I want them for better symmetry once cabinets and trim are installed. I use the pans for unfinished ceilings only but it would be nice to have them all open for when I arrive after the drywallers are done.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

These pans are hopefully going to make my life easier. Haven’t used them yet, but I’m planning on hitting each one with a rotozip on the trim if the sheetrockers cover them. All for small remodel/addition jobs. Biggest thing I’m seeing right now is a good way to mark them out on the floor or whatever so its not hard to find them again if needed.

On another note, Ive got one customer who is interested in doing her entire house in wafers. Existing home with sheetrock, just getting rid of the current light fixtures in every room and going 100% with the wafers except for the bathroom vanities, bedroom ceiling fans and a dining room chandelier. I’m guessing there will be 30+ on this project if she decides to go with it.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

They are the same till you get some that are slightly different in color.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

The replacement of surface fixtures can work, the problem can be how many wires are in in the ceiling box. Feed in with switch legs out or worse dead end three ways and trying to stuff those into the tiny junction boxes of the drivers.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

nrp3 said:


> The replacement of surface fixtures can work, the problem can be how many wires are in in the ceiling box. Feed in with switch legs out or worse dead end three ways and trying to stuff those into the tiny junction boxes of the drivers.


I added a few in the waiting room of her last week. Used the existing light fixture box to splice the wires and then put one of those blank white circle cover plates on it.

We’ll have to do that on her house unless sheetrock is coming down or if she wants new switch boxes and doesn’t mind having holes cut everywhere.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Measure and mark your floor, screw in a gold drywall screw on that spot on the floor. If the floor is concrete drill for a tapcon and install one of those . Later use a vertical laser to spot the ceiling for drilling out the fixture hole.


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## BleedingLungsMurphy (10 mo ago)

MHElectric said:


> Used the existing light fixture box to splice the wires and then put one of those blank white circle cover plates on it.


I've done a few retro fits with wafer lights. This is the safest way. There isn't enough space in the driver box for any extra spices. Start with existing lights and fish across from hole to hole. In the basement you only need to make a little 1x2" hole beside the joist to drill through and fish to the next hole.

I'm not sure if I would trust the clips. What if they get bumped by the drywallers? Will they make it harder to move the hole if necessary?

I just daisy chain NMD above the lights and write down the measurements. Roll the wire into a nice loop. Drill a hole, reach in, and unroll it.


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## BleedingLungsMurphy (10 mo ago)

MHElectric said:


> one of those blank white circle cover plates on it


I think I missed this the first time. There are some brands that will fit into an existing octagon box. The driver is built into the wafer.






Liteline - Product Details - All in one retrofit fixture up to 750lm







www.liteline.com


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

BleedingLungsMurphy said:


> I think I missed this the first time. There are some brands that will fit into an existing octagon box. The driver is built into the wafer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That’s an excellent product. Wafer lights in new construction makes no sense to me.


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> Measure and mark your floor, screw in a gold drywall screw on that spot on the floor. If the floor is concrete drill for a tapcon and install one of those . Later use a vertical laser to spot the ceiling for drilling out the fixture hole.


me too


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## yankeejoe1141 (Jul 26, 2013)

ohm it hertz said:


> Anyone else tend to leave 2' whips coiled above hard lids and drill their own holes? I find it easier to land them exactly where I want them for better symmetry once cabinets and trim are installed. I use the pans for unfinished ceilings only but it would be nice to have them all open for when I arrive after the drywallers are done.


I like to do the same and drill my own holes. I've only used the pans on a project where there was a cedar ceiling going in so I put the pans up and left it to the carpenter to cut the holes.


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## BleedingLungsMurphy (10 mo ago)

> if the floor is concrete drill.....


Drilling a new concrete floor to mark a spot for a light....... what happened to tape measures and note pads?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

BleedingLungsMurphy said:


> Drilling a new concrete floor to mark a spot for a light....... what happened to tape measures and note pads?


They were replaced with laser measures and Rocketbooks. 😊


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## BleedingLungsMurphy (10 mo ago)

99cents said:


> laser measures


I still haven't tried one. Are they worth it? I'm still using my 10+ year old fat max, it's the only one that doesn't get stolen.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

BleedingLungsMurphy said:


> I still haven't tried one. Are they worth it? I'm still using my 10+ year old fat max, it's the only one that doesn't get stolen.


To be honest mine stays in the tool bag most of the time.

Edit:
After this conversation, I pulled it out yesterday to measure a wire pull and it worked great. 😊


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