# ge thql



## jwjrw

Thats why I use cutler hammer as much as possible. I hate GE and Sq D. Plus a lot of GE's stuff is made in china. And they are supporters of "global warming". 

Sorry I was no help.......


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## DHC

What's the part # on the panel? If it is a TM2020CCU then it will accept the THQP breakers. I have seen them alot in mobile homes loaded completely with half size breakers. I hope this helps.


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## McClary’s Electrical

GE panels are the lowest of the low in residential market. 

Give your customers a better product than that.

Oh, and be careful taking the panel cover off, as it's really the only thing holding the breakers in. Cheesy


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## Dennis Alwon

THQL is your standard size breakers for GE. They do not make a tandem but they make a wafer breaker which is a THQP. If your panel accepts them then 2 wafers will fit in place of one full size breaker.


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## oldtimer

I M O, thqp means pretty crappy, in some foreign language.:laughing:

Remember Blue- Line breakers ... more crap.


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## nitro71

jwjrw said:


> Thats why I use cutler hammer as much as possible. I hate GE and Sq D. Plus a lot of GE's stuff is made in china. And they are supporters of "global warming".
> 
> Sorry I was no help.......


I wasn't impressed with the CH BR panel I just put up. I bone headed knocking out the feeder KO. Wanted to put the disco on the bottom where the feeder comes in. So I reversed the guts. Unfourtunately CH wasn't nice enough to drill holes so you could do this. I don't know if other brands are set up so you can reverse the insides. Exposed work so wasn't keen on a KO. In hindsight I'd have put the KO in but it was about 95 degrees out. Was getting a little hard to concentrate.


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## Shockdoc

GE panels have a knack, 1/2 size or full size. the problem with twinning outside of a GE breaker is intermittent connection, the bus bar does not extend high enough. However I cheated years back and got 8 murray twins to work on a 30 ckt 150 amp panel. Every panel has its tricks as for instance, Sq D homeline will accept any interchangeable breaker if you trim the excess 1/8 rejection off the bus bar.


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## jwjrw

nitro71 said:


> I wasn't impressed with the CH BR panel I just put up. I bone headed knocking out the feeder KO. Wanted to put the disco on the bottom where the feeder comes in. So I reversed the guts. Unfourtunately CH wasn't nice enough to drill holes so you could do this. I don't know if other brands are set up so you can reverse the insides. Exposed work so wasn't keen on a KO. In hindsight I'd have put the KO in but it was about 95 degrees out. Was getting a little hard to concentrate.


I usually turn the whole can upside down instead of trying to turn the guts around. I have had a few that the ko's were a pita to remove without knocking a larger size out. Most however are not that way. We have always installed CH and it is what I am used to. I just like where the neutral and ground bars are on a CH.


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## Shockdoc

mcclary's electrical said:


> GE panels are the lowest of the low in residential market.
> 
> Give your customers a better product than that.
> 
> Oh, and be careful taking the panel cover off, as it's really the only thing holding the breakers in. Cheesy


I beg to differ, they have a copper bus bar unlike Murray, Homeline and BR series.....


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## MDShunk

I just lump all 1" plug-on breaker designs in the same category, and call them all junk. Varying degrees of junkiness, but all junk, just the same.


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## B4T

MDShunk said:


> I just lump all 1" plug-on breaker designs in the same category, and call them all junk. Varying degrees of junkiness, but all junk, just the same.


Very true.. bad design, but job security for us.

I have seen many bolt on breakers that were cross threaded from the original installer.

But drill and tap fixes that quicker than a panel change.

Someone here was talking about *making money*.. :whistling2:


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## MDShunk

Black4Truck said:


> Very true.. bad design, but job security for us.
> 
> I have seen many bolt on breakers that were cross threaded from the original installer.
> 
> But drill and tap fixes that quicker than a panel change.
> 
> Someone here was talking about *making money*.. :whistling2:


I'm all for making money, but I hate getting thrown under the bus by inferior material. I install the best the budget will allow, but am perfectly willing to service anyone's junk.


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## B4T

MDShunk said:


> I'm all for making money, but I hate getting thrown under the bus by inferior material. I install the best the budget will allow, but am perfectly willing to service anyone's junk.


Why should electrical equipment be better than any other product on the market?

Everything is junk now and companies are making a fortune on "extended warranty" sales.

Even Grainger does it for a $30.00 relay :blink:


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## MDShunk

Black4Truck said:


> Why should electrical equipment be better than any other product on the market?


:laughing: I know you say this tongue in cheek, but I'm talking more about my personal preferences. Among plug on breakers, I have a defined opinion on the grades of quality.


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## B4T

MDShunk said:


> I have a defined opinion on the grades of quality.


Lets not forget the loads applied to these POS breakers.

The design fits commercial and residential applications.

Maybe the next big thing will be a CMP changing those standards.

They really have run out of ideas to *make the manufactures more money* with new products like AFCI and TR receptacles. :laughing:


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## gold

nitro71 said:


> I wasn't impressed with the CH BR panel I just put up. I bone headed knocking out the feeder KO. Wanted to put the disco on the bottom where the feeder comes in. So I reversed the guts. Unfourtunately CH wasn't nice enough to drill holes so you could do this. I don't know if other brands are set up so you can reverse the insides. Exposed work so wasn't keen on a KO. In hindsight I'd have put the KO in but it was about 95 degrees out. Was getting a little hard to concentrate.


 
BR may say Cutler Hammer on it but its really still just westinghouse trash. Probably better served with a CH, QO or QOB. THQL, Seimens, murrry, homeline, they all sorta just fall into that "everything else" category.


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## Brassman

New here, looking for newer information on the GE THQL. Just bought this house and it has an almost full breaker box TM4020C MOD 1 (only 1 space available) . I wanted to put a subpanel in my workshop, but when I opened up the panel to look inside, I can't add a new 50A breaker. So I started researching and found the THQP. However, that will not fit. So my question is, is there any manufacturer that makes a ½ size THQL compatible breaker. If there is none, any suggestions will be appreciated. I do know what I can do, but that involves another subpanel and bringing some existing circuits to the 1st subpanel. The existing panel is in the wall, so, I'd rather not go that route.


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## B-Nabs

Brassman said:


> New here, looking for newer information on the GE THQL. Just bought this house and it has an almost full breaker box TM4020C MOD 1 (only 1 space available) . I wanted to put a subpanel in my workshop, but when I opened up the panel to look inside, I can't add a new 50A breaker. So I started researching and found the THQP. However, that will not fit. So my question is, is there any manufacturer that makes a ½ size THQL compatible breaker. If there is none, any suggestions will be appreciated. I do know what I can do, but that involves another subpanel and bringing some existing circuits to the 1st subpanel. The existing panel is in the wall, so, I'd rather not go that route.


Are you an electrician? Please complete your profile. Also, don't resurrect 11 year old threads. 

Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk


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## Brassman

B-Nabs said:


> Are you an electrician? Please complete your profile. Also, don't resurrect 11 year old threads.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk


Can I delete this and post elsewhere so it doesn't show in the NEW area?


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