# Bonding Jumpers



## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

k_buz said:


> While sitting here at 1:07AM, I have been thinking about a diagram I saw earlier tonight. It was a generic diagram of his plumbing system.
> 
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..... read 250.104 (B) especially the last sentence. Which means, if you bring 220v to a water heater, the equipment ground for the ckt. feeding it is all you need.


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## k_buz (Mar 12, 2012)

I understand that, but I am making the analogy that the water heater is basically the same thing as the water meter.

You jumper the meter to protect the system in the event of the meter being removed, why wouldn't you then have to jumper the water heater in the event of it being removed? With the water heater removed, there is no equipment ground.


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Check my reply to that thread. 
There is NO need to extend the tub bond back to the service. The system bonds, and grounding electrode system have nothing to do with this tub bond.


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

k_buz said:


> I understand that, but I am making the analogy that the water heater is basically the same thing as the water meter.
> 
> You jumper the meter to protect the system in the event of the meter being removed, why wouldn't you then have to jumper the water heater in the event of it being removed? With the water heater removed, there is no equipment ground.


Even though the hot and cold are connected together are every faucet?
Do you jump a gas water heater also?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Some inspection departments do require a jumper between the hot and cold at the water heater however unless the plumber used a dielectric fitting there is no reason to do this. 

There is no reason to jump the meter since the water pipe is not an electrode. If the water heater is removed there is a potential for the plumber to get hurt but no more so then when they cut any lines in the middle of the run.

The filter itself in this case would not need a jumper since there is only a few feet of copper on the line side.

The tub is properly bonded.


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## k_buz (Mar 12, 2012)

Then I will ask the next obvious question...why jumper the meter?


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## Pete m. (Nov 19, 2011)

*250.53 Grounding Electrode System Installation.

(D) Metal UndergroundWater Pipe.​*​​​​If used as a grounding
electrode, metal underground water pipe shall meet the
requirements of 250.53(D)(1) and (D)(2).​
*(1) Continuity.​*​​​​Continuity of the grounding path or the
bonding connection to interior piping shall not rely on water​
meters or filtering devices and similar equipment.


There is the code section but IMHO I think it is just an attempt by the NEC to introduce a _minimum_ level of safety... It wont cover all scenarios and a plumber should excersize caution anytime he/she interrupts the continuity of interior metal piping. 

Pete


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## acrwc10 (Jan 28, 2007)

I'm just going to comment by what I have seen in the field.
if the cold pipe is bonded and the house has metal piping, 99% of the time there are atleast one metal to metal connection though a shower valve, connecting hot to cold. This will carry the bond through all the water piping even if the water meter has dielectric fittings on it. Most inspectors still want the water heater bonded, why because they don't know any better. I have worked on houses with both plastic and metal cased water filters so bonding around it would be a case by case choice. As far as bonding around the meter, That should be the job of the water dept. because they own the meter, and the piping before the meter. If the water Co. desides to remove a meter with no bonding jumper, they should clamp one on first or do it at their own risk.


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## k_buz (Mar 12, 2012)

> Most inspectors still want the water heater bonded, why because they don't know any better.


I have NEVER had to jumper the water heater, that is why I posed the question.


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## acrwc10 (Jan 28, 2007)

k_buz said:


> I have NEVER had to jumper the water heater, that is why I posed the question.


Around here they are so used to it they just make you do it even on the tankless heaters, where they are hard piped and a solid metal units. So I buy the cheapest bonding clamps I can find and use scrap wire, total cost $2.85.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Some inspection departments do require a jumper between the hot and cold at the water heater however unless the plumber used a dielectric fitting there is no reason to do this.


There is no reason to do it dielectric fitting or not. 

The hot and cold are bonded together at each tub and shower valve.


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