# Motor Pecker Head Issues! Please Help!



## cahulls

*Motor Peckerhead Issues! Please Help!*

Hello all!

Having an issue here and would like some feedback from the community!

I work at a sand and gravel operation and we just installed a new shaker deck on site. The motors are mounted on top of the shaker deck and not on a pedestals beside it. With this configuration the motors are experiencing the full vibration of the deck. The deck has been in service for less than two weeks and we have had two issues with the wiring inside the pecker head. The actual connections are standing up to the vibration but the conductors and their insulation are rubbing through causing shorts and/or opens in the circuit. We ended up rubber taping the length of the conductor to give it a better chance against the vibration but I feel that this will just prolong the inevitable. Apparently the manufacturer of the deck sent some sort of padding to go into the pecker head but we didn't see it. I have tried to find solutions for this online but I am striking out. One suggestion that I read was to pack the pecker head full with duct seal. I feel this would work but it could cause quite a mess especially if the motor heats up. 

Does anyone else have an solutions to suggest.

Thanks!


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## cahulls

Hello all!

Having an issue here and would like some feedback from the community!

I work at a sand and gravel operation and we just installed a new shaker deck on site. The motors are mounted on top of the shaker deck and not on a pedestals beside it. With this configuration the motors are experiencing the full vibration of the deck. The deck has been in service for less than two weeks and we have had two issues with the wiring inside the pecker head. The actual connections are standing up to the vibration but the conductors and their insulation are rubbing through causing shorts and/or opens in the circuit. We ended up rubber taping the length of the conductor to give it a better chance against the vibration but I feel that this will just prolong the inevitable. Apparently the manufacturer of the deck sent some sort of padding to go into the pecker head but we didn't see it. I have tried to find solutions for this online but I am striking out. One suggestion that I read was to pack the pecker head full with duct seal. I feel this would work but it could cause quite a mess especially if the motor heats up. 

Does anyone else have an solutions to suggest.

Thanks!


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## 460 Delta

So you have a 2 bearing vibratory screen with the motor mounted to the screen itself? What brand screen is it? This sounds like some kind of imported dumpster fire to me. Packing the JB to stop wire wear sounds like a ghetto repair for a poor design.
The 2 bearing screens that Iv'e seen mount the motor to the main frame and use more than the typical amount of usually B belts to compensate for the loose belt slippage from the motor mounting.
I would for sure contact the manufacturer and make them give you exact directions on a new install.

BTW, welcome to the forum and thanks for taking the time to fill out your profile.


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## radio208

That just sounds like a bad design from the get go. Is fed by flex or cord? Not helping you much here -but a lot of sharp minds around will help out.


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## joebanana

Is this a "new" piece of equipment? SEND IT BACK. Motors aren't designed to be shaken constantly. They only do that when a bearing goes really bad. From being shaken.


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## micromind

I've never seen a motor mounted on the vibrating part of a screen before but I have seen them mounted on the vibrating part of a crusher feeder. 

When I make these up, I'll get some scrap belt and cut it in pieces to separate the conductors. I also keep the motor leads and incoming wire fairly short and I never use flex or sealtite, only flexible cord usually type SO or even better, G-GC. 

It helps to get a single-voltage motor because there are only 3 or 6 leads compared to 9 or 12. Fewer splices this way.


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## Navyguy

I agree, the bearings will go on this unit soon.

I had a lot of vibration tanks in the forge, never would we directly connect something like that.

Cheers
John


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## radio208

Also, are there shipping bolts at the motor- mounts that needed to be 'backed off' at installation to de-compress a heavy spring or rubber pad? Nice to see a picture.


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## gpop

Switch to a tool wire s/o type cord in a lazy loop then add a spring to the loop so the cable flex's rather then than bending in the same spot. (also avoids the weight of the cable handing on the mjb connector)
The padding is normally a piece of rubber belt cut so it covers the inside of the box ( T shape). I don't see a problem with duct seal as packing.

Hopefully the motor is designed for shaker duty. We use to PM our screen motors and replace the flex cable once a year as the copper stands tend to break in the insulation.


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## 460 Delta

micromind said:


> I've never seen a motor mounted on the vibrating part of a screen before but I have seen them mounted on the vibrating part of a crusher feeder.
> 
> When I make these up, I'll get some scrap belt and cut it in pieces to separate the conductors. I also keep the motor leads and incoming wire fairly short and I never use flex or sealtite, only flexible cord usually type SO or even better, G-GC.
> 
> It helps to get a single-voltage motor because there are only 3 or 6 leads compared to 9 or 12. Fewer splices this way.


If you’re talking about the offset weighted double ended motors, I’ve been around several but wire abrasions are never really a factor. 
Usually the guy dropping the coffee table size slab of material over the side and ripping the cable right out is the problem. 
Back to the OP problem, the design is the real issue, any “fix” is a crutch. Maybe dip the wires in some Yellow 77 and shoot some Great Stuff foam in and let er rip. 
The vibration is going to murder the motor bearings and the base bolts will be constantly loose. A Grip/Power Band style belt will be a must to keep belts from picking.


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## micromind

I was actually thinking of belt-drive but I've seen those vibrator motors too. I greatly prefer the air ones but they take a pretty fair-size compressor........

The soap is a good idea, I've never used it.....yet.......

cahulls, what kind of a motor is it?


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## didntdoit

Sleeved the conductors on a vibrating parts cleaner, it lasted over a month. (The length of the job, I could pull it apart tomorrow and see how they held up.)


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## 460 Delta

micromind said:


> I was actually thinking of belt-drive but I've seen those vibrator motors too. I greatly prefer the air ones but they take a pretty fair-size compressor........
> 
> The soap is a good idea, I've never used it.....yet.......
> 
> cahulls, what kind of a motor is it?


I'm not familiar with belt driven vibrators, do you have a picture by chance?
The air vibrators we use in R-mix are air hogs for sure and you would need a big screw compressor to feed it. The oily discharge from the vibrators would look like the Exxon Valdes spill in a few months.


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## Flyingsod

Wrap everything in friction tape. Multiple layers. It should be a normal part of a motor termination anyway. For this I guess you'd need to wrap the conductors as well. In your case though even that might not be enough. Even if you pot the the damn peckerhead I suspect the conductor in the flex is going to rub through eventually. Its a crazy idea to shake a motor that much.

My potting remark gave me an idea though. Itd make replacement a pita but you could gel or silicone the whole thing, feeder flex included. Raychem might make something suitable. 

I agree with this wholeheartedly:



460 Delta said:


> Back to the OP problem, the design is the real issue, any “fix” is a crutch.


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## Wirenuting

You didn't say how. IG the motors are.
If your feeding them and making splices with to much wire in the head, that could be part the problem.
You shouldn't have to cram 5' of wire into a 3" box.


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## micromind

460 Delta said:


> I'm not familiar with belt driven vibrators, do you have a picture by chance?
> The air vibrators we use in R-mix are air hogs for sure and you would need a big screw compressor to feed it. The oily discharge from the vibrators would look like the Exxon Valdes spill in a few months.


The belt drive type are like most normal screens where the motor is mounted to the frame and the belt drives a shaft with an imbalanced weight. 

In this case, I thought maybe the motor is mounted to the screen and not the frame. Could easily be wrong though.


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## John Valdes

Mounting motors in bad places, OEM style is not all that uncommon. I have seen motors mounted on The ram of punch presses and have seen many vibrators. The latter must be on the vibrating table or trough to work. Mounting motors on rams not so much. Whats a few more feet of hydraulic hose.

OP why not put the packing material you missed into the connection box? After all its what they gave you to prevent this.
The guys above have some ideas you should look at. Padding the conductors seems the way to go.


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## 460 Delta

micromind said:


> The belt drive type are like most normal screens where the motor is mounted to the frame and the belt drives a shaft with an imbalanced weight.
> 
> In this case, I thought maybe the motor is mounted to the screen and not the frame. Could easily be wrong though.


I understand what you’re saying now about the feeder drives. I think the OP is saying the motor is actually mounted to the vibrating screen. 
Deister, Pioneer, and Robins all mount their motors on the frame and not being shaken like a Bond martini.


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## cahulls

Thanks for all your replies. 

Sorry if I didn't describe the set up well. In the manual the drive system is described as a double-shaft overhead drive system with direct mounted motors. The motors are set up with V-Belts. I am trying to attach some pictures but not sure how to. Let me know.


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## John Valdes

cahulls said:


> Thanks for all your replies.
> 
> Sorry if I didn't describe the set up well. In the manual the drive system is described as a double-shaft overhead drive system with direct mounted motors. The motors are set up with V-Belts. I am trying to attach some pictures but not sure how to. Let me know.


You need 20 posts to upload pictures. It goes fast. Trust me.
I removed your duplicate post that was above.


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## cahulls

Okay thanks.

The deck is a L-800 Haver & Boker deck. 16’ x 7’. I can't post links but you can go to their website and pull up their L-Class decks. The one we have is the same series but a different set up. The drive portion of the picture is identical.

Let me know if you have any more thoughts.


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## gpop

https://havercanada.com/wp-content/parts/ws-tyler-l-class-parts.pdf


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## paulengr

I have worked in mining over twenty years. Some screens have off screen motors, some on screen. I’ve even relocated done both ways and it didn’t make much difference. Off screen you just get belt problems instead.

First off do NOT use flex to the peckerhead. Use SOOW. The wiring in the flex chafes where the SO is all one piece and meant to flex (cord). It will last much longer. It needs to enter the peckerhead with a cord connector. The rubber grommet protects the cord from chafing. Depending on how it hangs a strain relief might be needed too. Rig the cord so it doesn’t rub against anything. Use hydraulic hose clamps and spiral wrap if you must. Terminate to an LB with a cord connector and splice inside so you can change the cord every few years. If vibration doesn’t get it, sunlight will eat it up.

Ok so throw away wire nuts and mechanical lugs. Those are all a recipe for failure. Including Polaris plugs. You need crimped or bolted connections for everything. Preferably ring lugs not forks if it’s small enough for Stakons.

In the peckerhead vibration motors with the IEC terminal strips come with two pieces of foam rubber. You put the wiring between them so that it protects iron either side. You have to squeeze it down with the peckerhead cover as you tighten the bolts. This keeps it from chafing.

Without the foam rubber you need to take every step possible to turn the wiring into a solid mass that moves with the screen. So first once you finish taping use tie wraps and/or tape to tape them all together. No wire nuts here. The fact that every wire nit brand says no vibration should give you a hint. I always use crimp lugs and bolt but I suppose lever nuts might be OK. Haven’t tried them. I’ve seen duct seal used. I’ve seen the box lined with Scotchfill. If you get the old non-dissolving kind I’ve see. A guy pack the peckerhead full of packing peanuts. But blocks of foam rubber by far do the best job and aren’t messy to remove later. Whatever you do the whole key is that just centering the wire isn’t enough. It needs to be secured. Also do not be cheap with the tape! I’ve been known to make giant tape balls if I have to. After vinyl use the whole roll of 130C. On bigger motors use a roll per splice. Or use Scotchfill because it goes much faster.’. The first layer should be back wrapped 88. At least two layers but more anywhere it might chafe. Then 130C at least two layers but here go crazy. It should be twice as thick as the original wiring if not more. Then go crazy on more 88. This is your abrasion proofing. At least two wraps but 4 or more won’t hurt. Then wrap them all together with more 88 and/or tue wraps. Then secure that with foam, duct seal, Scotchfill, whatever so it can’t go anywhere.

88 is stronger and stretches more than 33+. It holds up better against vibration. I’ve stopped using 33+.

It can be done and will outlast the motor. But only if you secure it so it is not loose in the box.


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## cahulls

I will give it a try. Thank you all who contributed! I'll let you know how it goes!


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## just the cowboy

Look up super trex SOOW cord. I have never worn that stuff out $$$$$$$


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## Electricman3

We have a big vibrating screen here at the sawmill and had some issues with this a few months ago. Being old school I always used Burndy's or split bolts to terminate motors but found in this case the lighter the weight in the pecker head connections the less they wanted to slam around. Using SO cord and a rated strain relief I terminated the wires with inline barrel crimps rated for 480v and wire tied them up good and tight. I used some foam on the back side and front side to insulate the connections from chaffing on the pecker head. All in all, just make sure the connections cant move and it should reduce any rubbing or chaffing. Hope this helps.


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## gnuuser

installing a thick rubber grommet in the hole between the pecker-head and motor housing can help but with a motor being subject to a lot of vibration you have to immobilize the wires as well so they don't move.
This can be accomplished in a few ways from foam to oakum, My favorite was using thin Teflon tubing (often called spaghetti tube) to pack the pecker-head! it was heat resistant and easy to remove


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## berger

cahulls said:


> *Motor Peckerhead Issues! Please Help!*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Having an issue here and would like some feedback from the community!
> 
> I work at a sand and gravel operation and we just installed a new shaker deck on site. The motors are mounted on top of the shaker deck and not on a pedestals beside it. With this configuration the motors are experiencing the full vibration of the deck. The deck has been in service for less than two weeks and we have had two issues with the wiring inside the pecker head. The actual connections are standing up to the vibration but the conductors and their insulation are rubbing through causing shorts and/or opens in the circuit. We ended up rubber taping the length of the conductor to give it a better chance against the vibration but I feel that this will just prolong the inevitable. Apparently the manufacturer of the deck sent some sort of padding to go into the pecker head but we didn't see it. I have tried to find solutions for this online but I am striking out. One suggestion that I read was to pack the pecker head full with duct seal. I feel this would work but it could cause quite a mess especially if the motor heats up.
> 
> Does anyone else have an solutions to suggest.
> 
> Thanks!


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## berger

I am a CT E1 and have done multiple shaker tables with motors attached. Pack the peckerhead with duct seal. Problem solved.


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## paulengr

berger said:


> I am a CT E1 and have done multiple shaker tables with motors attached. Pack the peckerhead with duct seal. Problem solved.


Only problem with this is that it’s a huge mess to remove when it comes time to replace the motor.

Agree with what others have said. If you buy a “vibratory motor” it comes with two thick pieces of foam rubber with pockets for each phase. Anything you can do to accomplish the same thing. I’ve also used the wraps to strap everything to each other so that the wiring is all one mass then immobilize or foam pack it somehow. I’ve tried packing peanuts in the past. They tend to disappear.


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## JRaef

I too hate the duct seal option, it's a real mess to deal with later on.

I have, in a pinch, used old (sometimes new) innertubes. For small motors, I used bike innertubes because they make for a nice sleeve to go over the connectors. Start with a 10-12" long piece, slip the connection inside, tighten a ty-wrap around the end against the conductors, then take the longer piece at the other end and wrap it around a couple more times.. For bigger motors, I use truck tire innertubes (or car size if you can still find them) and cut them in sheets. Wish I had pictures of some of them, I never thought of taking any though


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## Wirenuting

I like to use a piece of rubber roofing membrane. 
We have a big roll in the shop. 
It’s smooth and easy to slip in if you have to. Then just tape the end around the wires.


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## paulengr

cahulls said:


> *Motor Peckerhead Issues! Please Help!*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Having an issue here and would like some feedback from the community!
> 
> I work at a sand and gravel operation and we just installed a new shaker deck on site. The motors are mounted on top of the shaker deck and not on a pedestals beside it. With this configuration the motors are experiencing the full vibration of the deck. The deck has been in service for less than two weeks and we have had two issues with the wiring inside the pecker head. The actual connections are standing up to the vibration but the conductors and their insulation are rubbing through causing shorts and/or opens in the circuit. We ended up rubber taping the length of the conductor to give it a better chance against the vibration but I feel that this will just prolong the inevitable. Apparently the manufacturer of the deck sent some sort of padding to go into the pecker head but we didn't see it. I have tried to find solutions for this online but I am striking out. One suggestion that I read was to pack the pecker head full with duct seal. I feel this would work but it could cause quite a mess especially if the motor heats up.
> 
> Does anyone else have an solutions to suggest.
> 
> Thanks!


I was in mining for over 20 years.

1. Use an SO cord to the peckerhead. Do NOT use liquid tight. Or it ears up the insulation. I haven’t tried MC.
2. Use a cast crane motor, ideally a vibration duty motor but that’s not always a choice.
3. Use a 4 bearing screen if you buy a new one.
4. In vibration duty motors they have two huge blocks of thick closed cell flexible foam but it is really dense foam, like a heavy sponge. There are 3 cavities cut in it. You do your terminations in each cavity. The other way I’ve done it is tape/zip tie all 3 connections in a solid bundle and wrap everything in Scotch fill. The idea is nothing touches anything that can rub and it all moves like one mass. I’ve also tried packing peanuts but those break down way too much.


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## backstay

2020 Thread.


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