# Long reach drill for resi work



## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I just posted it in your other thread


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## Spartan98 (Nov 25, 2012)

sbrn33 said:


> I just posted it in your other thread


Yea I know thanks I posted that as soon as you replied to first thread. It sucks because I just bought a dewalt right angle drill 2 weeks ago.


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

Spartan98 said:


> Yea I know thanks I posted that as soon as you replied to first thread. It sucks because I just bought a dewalt right angle drill 2 weeks ago.


Its alright you'll need both drills


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## FastFokker (Sep 18, 2012)

Can you use an long extension and a long bit?


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

you need a millwaukee right angle and the seperate tube extender.... all in all your looking at about 450 bucks...just make sure you right angle has a reverse switch..


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

captkirk said:


> you need a millwaukee right angle and the seperate tube extender.... all in all your looking at about 450 bucks...just make sure you right angle has a reverse switch..


You must be buying from Grainger.:laughing:


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## pwoody (Oct 14, 2012)

we use this with this and one of these


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

I have one I will gladly sell. I found it nearly useless.


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## Ewcelectric (Nov 3, 2012)

What size hole you drilling?


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## socalelect (Nov 14, 2011)

I always used. A ass kicker (hole haawg) 
With the self feed bits


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## socalelect (Nov 14, 2011)

Now I rarely use the hawg I learned its no good for metal when I broke 3 1 inch bits. Now I have the hougen 904 mag drill with swivel base for iron


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

nolabama said:


> I have one I will gladly sell. I found it nearly useless.


You got it on a D-handle drill? I've had one one for years and love it. It's the main drill we use for resi work.


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

wendon said:


> You got it on a D-handle drill? I've had one one for years and love it. It's the main drill we use for resi work.


Yes. It's the extension tube thingy I don't Like. Prolly doing it wrong


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

I do ok with a paddle bit, foot long extension and a cordless though Im not small and use cordless one handed and I dont care anyone thinks my cordless shouldnt be used with 1,1/2 inch paddles, it works for me in timber framed commercial work.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

I use long bits in a cordless for drill top and bottom plates and going through the spots where the studs are too close to get a drill into. I have 72 in and 54 in long, up to one inch in diameter. 

https://images.tradeservice.com/jjt0Md4faivzO8sD/ATTACHMENTS/DIR100042/GREENLE00436_6.pdf


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

backstay said:


> I use long bits in a cordless for drill top and bottom plates and going through the spots where the studs are too close to get a drill into. I have 72 in and 54 in long, up to one inch in diameter.
> 
> https://images.tradeservice.com/jjt0Md4faivzO8sD/ATTACHMENTS/DIR100042/GREENLE00436_6.pdf



This is the only way to go IMO. Almost eliminates a ladder.


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## Pompadour (Mar 19, 2011)

when i did resi (18 years ago), we used these:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...hooters/1-2-inch-compact-drill-900-rpm/1630-1


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## Pompadour (Mar 19, 2011)

we used them with ship augers that were 18" long or so.


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## Dangerously (Dec 1, 2012)

Pompadour said:


> when i did resi (18 years ago), we used these:
> 
> http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...hooters/1-2-inch-compact-drill-900-rpm/1630-1


I've always thought those were weird. It's like a mix between a hole hawg and a pistol grip drill. I have only seen tapers/tile guys using that drill to mix their mud.


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## Pompadour (Mar 19, 2011)

actually, we used the 650 RPM ones. this:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...hooters/1-2-inch-compact-drill-650-rpm/1610-1


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## jimmy21 (Mar 31, 2012)

Dangerously said:


> I've always thought those were weird. It's like a mix between a hole hawg and a pistol grip drill. I have only seen tapers/tile guys using that drill to mix their mud.


that seems to be the most common drill ive used. Without the handle. Either handle actually. Most people remove both handles.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Let the chips fall where they will but this thread went from professional to hack in no time flat. That extension and a D handle drill will let a normal sized guy walk on deck and drill out ceiling joists fast and simple with little practice. An auger bit makes quick work of what will bind and bend a spade bit and your personal size can do little about that Chewy.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

3xdad said:


> This is the only way to go IMO. Almost eliminates a ladder.


 
Great for fishing but a joke for quick new work drilling.


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## Pompadour (Mar 19, 2011)

jimmy21 said:


> that seems to be the most common drill ive used. Without the handle. Either handle actually. Most people remove both handles.


we always had the handle on the back still on the drill. the scary ones were the really old ones that looked more metal colored than grey. they were hand smashers. you had to be extra careful with them.


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

randomkiller said:


> Great for fishing but a joke for quick new work drilling.


Hey man long time no see. You make out ok in y'alls storm?


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

nolabama said:


> Hey man long time no see. You make out ok in y'alls storm?


 
My house was fine some limbs and stuff down, electric out for a few weeks. But I was injured on the job just after the storm and have been recouping at the BIL's place in my cast. My area took it real bad, many folks lost it all.


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

It's just things. Hope you a speedy recovery.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

randomkiller said:


> Let the chips fall where they will but this thread went from professional to hack in no time flat. That extension and a D handle drill will let a normal sized guy walk on deck and drill out ceiling joists fast and simple with little practice. An auger bit makes quick work of what will bind and bend a spade bit and your personal size can do little about that Chewy.


I bent a brand new 18 inch 38mm auger that bound... Sure wish it had been a paddle bit because I wouldnt be personally out of pocket for $120.

I own a selection of augers and the drill plant to power them, I prefer a quick connect hex holder, paddle bit and #2 square in my cordless, I screw a box on, drill down to it, move on, guys come behind me and drop cables into it. The guy that would be screwing boxes on for me if I had a corded drill comes behinds them and terminates, bags and zip ties them into the box. If thats hack its because people are jealous we get it done quicker.


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## Rochsolid (Aug 9, 2012)

Why don't you try these out? Ive used them in the past, didn't work to bad, and no need to purchase a new drill


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

Rochsolid said:


> Why don't you try these out? Ive used them in the past, didn't work to bad, and no need to purchase a new drill


Those suck out loud.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

It is very easy to tell who has wired a few houses and who hasn't.


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## rexowner (Apr 12, 2008)

chewy said:


> I bent a brand new 18 inch 38mm auger that bound... Sure wish it had been a paddle bit because I wouldnt be personally out of pocket for $120.
> 
> I own a selection of augers and the drill plant to power them, I prefer a quick connect hex holder, paddle bit and #2 square in my cordless, I screw a box on, drill down to it, move on, guys come behind me and drop cables into it. The guy that would be screwing boxes on for me if I had a corded drill comes behinds them and terminates, bags and zip ties them into the box. If thats hack its because people are jealous we get it done quicker.


Carpentry/Construction must be different in NZ. There is too much
metal in fasteners and connectors in walls here. Much of it you 
can't see even if you check for it e.g. the nails into a top plate
holding the sheathing on. This will stop a paddle bit in a cordless
in a second but a decent auger bit cuts through it.

Interior walls maybe a different story when you can see all the fasteners
and connectors. Paddle bit could be OK if you check for all the metal,
by I don't bother changing bits.


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## Rochsolid (Aug 9, 2012)

nolabama said:


> Those suck out loud.


Ya just throwing out some other options for the OP


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

Here is what I use for house work, Harboc Electrical Supply in West Philly has them or had them.


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

pwoody said:


> we use this with this and one of these


The drill motor is a wrist breaker...


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

chewy said:


> I bent a brand new 18 inch 38mm auger that bound... Sure wish it had been a paddle bit because I wouldnt be personally out of pocket for $120.
> 
> I own a selection of augers and the drill plant to power them, I prefer a quick connect hex holder, paddle bit and #2 square in my cordless, I screw a box on, drill down to it, move on, guys come behind me and drop cables into it. The guy that would be screwing boxes on for me if I had a corded drill comes behinds them and terminates, bags and zip ties them into the box. If thats hack its because people are jealous we get it done quicker.


 
I meant that in regardto a few posts on how to not use professional tools like the Milwaukee with the extension. As for a spade or paddle bit being better than an auger, not on jobs I've been on. I also meant you can't muscle a spade through a 10d nail no matter how hard you push but a greenlee nail eater will cut through it. 

I agree with the amount of hidden fasteners in new jobs way more than there used to be. 

As for those stupid 6' and 7' alarm bits I have actually seen one of those bind up on a guy drilling over his head and chip two teeth when it bound and his ridgid cordless battery slapped him in the front of his mouth. Not a pretty site. I've used that Milwaukee extension set up with a 7/8" nail eater with great speed and success many times while doing resi with a friend.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

BIGRED said:


> Here is what I use for house work, Harboc Electrical Supply in West Philly has them or had them.


 
Not sure how that will workout, I'd rather just use the original that has a proven track record.


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## pwoody (Oct 14, 2012)

John said:


> The drill motor is a wrist breaker...


the 33 degree angle change on the extension doesnt twist straight on the wrist.

If i was just going straight on something, i would be nervous.

One guy I used to work for just had big ol 2' auger bit in a 1/2 drill with no handles, that thing was w rist smasher when it would bind up, which it ofetn would with that much bit stuck out there. I hated how all the holes were at an angle and he never sharpened the damn thing or when you drilled straight up you would get sheeeit in your eyes. 

The milwaukee hockey stickextension is the key to the whole setup, and is the best system ive seen yet.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

My main drill for resi work is a D-handle Milwaukee with the extension and the 33 degree angle. Top that off with a 7/8" Greenlee Naileater with the replaceable tip and you've got it made IMHO.


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## socalelect (Nov 14, 2011)

wendon said:


> My main drill for resi work is a D-handle Milwaukee with the extension and the 33 degree angle. Top that off with a 7/8" Greenlee Naileater with the replaceable tip and you've got it made IMHO.


You non ca guys must do it way different than we do here. Hole hawgs and self feed bits are all I've ever seen used here


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## pwoody (Oct 14, 2012)

the nail eater bit _is_ a self feed bit.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

socalelect said:


> You non ca guys must do it way different than we do here. Hole hawgs and self feed bits are all I've ever seen used here


Yeah we're not in the land of fruits and nuts!!!:laughing::laughing: My hole hawg hasn't seen the light of day for a long time! I think the newer Super Hawg might be a better drill than the old Hawg. I think the naileaters are more resistant to nails than the self feeds. Just my opinion!


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## socalelect (Nov 14, 2011)

wendon said:


> Yeah we're not in the land of fruits and nuts!!!:laughing::laughing: My hole hawg hasn't seen the light of day for a long time! I think the newer Super Hawg might be a better drill than the old Hawg. I think the naileaters are more resistant to nails than the self feeds. Just my opinion!


I agree one nail hit with a self feed and its file time, they have the new ones out with the replaceable cutting edge but I don't do anything new anymore, the super hawg has the clutch right?


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

socalelect said:


> I agree one nail hit with a self feed and its file time, they have the new ones out with the replaceable cutting edge but I don't do anything new anymore, the super hawg has the clutch right?


I've never used the super hawg but I think it does have a clutch. I just like the D handle with the extension. You don't have to bend over and you don't have to climb on a ladder to drill.The D handle doesn't have an enormous amount of torque so you're still left with a wrist!


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

Dangerously said:


> I've always thought those were weird. It's like a mix between a hole hawg and a pistol grip drill. I have only seen tapers/tile guys using that drill to mix their mud.


 I have to agree..... although they really pack a lot of power its pretty cubersome to use for a whole house.... Its like the 50 CAL of drills...strong but really heavy.. 

A D handle with extension is much more comfortable for all day use..


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