# Wiggy Testers



## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

If by "wiggy" you mean a solenoidal voltage tester, I haven't used one in 10+ years now. I switched to the digital ones since then, starting with the Ideal version and now the Fluke T+ Pro.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

MTW said:


> If by "wiggy" you mean a solenoidal voltage tester, I haven't used one in 10+ years now. I switched to the digital ones since then, starting with the Ideal version and now the Fluke T+ Pro.


Wiggy=solenoidal tester of course.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I’ve gone to full circle. I started with a Wiggy, then I went through many digital testers in meters. Now I find myself back with my original black Wiggy. It’s the best for resi service work. 

I just wish it had a continuity tester. I think the Ideal Volt-con solenoid tester does.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I use the Etcon VT154 which is made in USA solenoid voltage tester plus continuity tester. I trust the solenoid tester the most.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

_“What’s a wiggy”_? Wow, does this make me feel old!

On a serious note, I always kept one around and would use it to impress upon a new kid what voltage “felt” like. Feeling the difference between 120 & 480V using a wiggy for the first time is not something you forget easily. 

Although there more sophisticated testers around, a wiggy still has a place in this trade. BTW, I always preferred the Knopp brand.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I remember one person that I worked with about 12 years ago had an Ideal Vol-Con but it was half the size of the normal one and it also had a continuity tester. I was never able to find that model.


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## HertzHound (Jan 22, 2019)

I always liked the Wiggi. The Ideal was never as compact, that’s why I never bought one. When Ideal came out with the Vol-Con EL or whatever it was, I bought one because it was smaller and had continuity. The leeds got caught on something and needed to be replaced. I knew I was buying the wrong replacement ones, but I listened to the supply house guy. They were wrong. I’m sure I still have both somewhere?

The Vol-Con’s continuity light would light, if you were testing a dead wire, and there were other live conductors in the conduit. I don’t think it would do it on a multiwire home run or 3-way. 

I had to go help a guy on a Friday afternoon at a restaurant. He already checked it out. Said it was a burn off in one circuit of many in the same conduit. One of those things that need to get fixed right away on their busy night. The guy didn’t know about induced voltage on the continuity light. 

Pulled all the wires out and back in. Terminated, and BAM!!!! The short was in one of the warmers, not the conduit. I really wanted to throw his tester out, since he didn’t know how to use it.


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## HertzHound (Jan 22, 2019)

XL. That was it. The Leeds went in like the Wiggie and folded like the Wiggie. It was smaller than the original. Now it looks like they have real narrow ones.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Ideal makes two Vol Con Elite testers. Both have continuity, low impedance, and a built in non-contact tester in the tip, and a CAT III rating. The one also has the solenoid shaker. This is a great combination of features, I like the idea of having the NCVT in the same tool. 










I was really thinking about ordering the solenoid one but I found some of the regular Vol Cons at a discount store (fell off the truck goods) for like $6 so I bought all four or five they had, I was using one around the house a bit. The leads are so junky it turned me off Ideal. I don't know if the Vol Con Elite leads are any better. Now that I look at it I guess the leads on the Elite are replaceable the basic ones I got are not.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

The Knopp is almost always the first tester I bust out. Solenoid testers are great since they give you visual, audible, and "feelable" feedback. I have a bunch of other meters, but before I grab onto something, it is tested with a solenoid-type tester.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

I have a VolCon that is nearly as old as I am. It is in bad shape so it sits in the tool box. I bought the low-Z wiggy-style LED-based Klein tester at HD. Seems to be OK so far.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I've carried a Knopp tester for about ten years now. Simple and no batteries. If I need more info, one of the flukes comes out.


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

My every day testers are a Wiggy and a Fluke 87. A wiggy (solenoid tester) is the tool if there are induced voltages .


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

I agree about using a wiggy. In my last toolbag all I used regularly was a cheap klein wiggy and the cheap fluke meggar. my digital voltmeters stayed mostly in the truck, because I got tired of chasing ghosts.

Of course it goes without saying, if you need cat 3 or 4, you need to make sure you have the right equipment ( I don't recall if my wiggy was just cat 2 or not)


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

*Hated it at 480*



bill39 said:


> _“_
> On a serious note, I always kept one around and would use it to impress upon a new kid what voltage “felt” like. Feeling the difference between 120 & 480V using a wiggy for the first time is not something you forget easily.
> .



I still to this day hate the loud click and small arc when used at 480 volts. But I would not be without it, still trust it more than low z meter.


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

Still using the good ol' Wiggys.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

460 Delta said:


> Wiggy=solenoidal tester of course.


Each type of tester has it’s place 

Plug checker, NC, DMM, and wiggy. I use them all but if I could only have one it would be the wiggy.

I have the ideal with the continuity checker built in and that one tool fills a lot of roles.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

macmike has Knopp wiggy for main use. On the truck is a Fluke t-pro 1000. And a couple of multi meters. And a few larger amp probes. I love the larger witdth of my new Fluke t-1000 , it can fit around a 3/0 for reading amps. Larger than that though and I gotta dig out a clamp on meter.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I replaced my wiggy when the Fluke T+ pro came out, no ghost voltage readings.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I replaced my wiggy when the Fluke T+ pro came out, no ghost voltage readings.



I bought the T+ Pro and it's a great meter, but I don't break it out unless I need the additional functions. The etcon is more pocket sized. Turns out I don't need more than voltage and continuity most of the time. 



The Knopp is really nice but I decided having the continuity tester in the same tool is a must for me, I use it constantly.


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

I have on the truck a Fluke 1587 a flule 377 ammeter a Tegam Voltman and a Knopp Wiggie. Use the Tegam for troubleshooting relay circuits because it toggles between volts and continuity. The Tegam also goes between 1 and 600 volts AC/DC. A nice meter. 
The 1587 is my go EDC meter / megger. The 377 is my EDC ammeter the Knopp is more thak likely the first meter I will use if I am looking for the presence / absence of voltage. 
Solenoid testers are ideal when you are looking for open service conductors.

LC


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> I have on the truck a Fluke 1587 a flule 377 ammeter a Tegam Voltman and a Knopp Wiggie. Use the Tegam for troubleshooting relay circuits because it toggles between volts and continuity. The Tegam also goes between 1 and 600 volts AC/DC. A nice meter.
> The 1587 is my go EDC meter / megger. The 377 is my EDC ammeter the Knopp is more thak likely the first meter I will use if I am looking for the presence / absence of voltage.
> Solenoid testers are ideal when you are looking for open service conductors.
> 
> LC


Do you mean 376? I've never heard of a 377.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## TheLivingBubba (Jul 23, 2015)

Wiggy? I have a t+ pro. Meters I have a few. Usually I just use the 87v and put it on low z.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

HackWork said:


> I’ve gone to full circle. I started with a Wiggy, then I went through many digital testers in meters. Now I find myself back with my original black Wiggy. It’s the best for resi service work.
> 
> I just wish it had a continuity tester. I think the Ideal Volt-con solenoid tester does.


Hi Hack Boy. :vs_wave:

A voltage tester without a continuity feature is completely worthless. If you're going to use a solenoidal tester, the VolCon is the best. That was my go to tester before the digital ones came out.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> Hi Hack Boy. :vs_wave:
> 
> A voltage tester without a continuity feature is completely worthless.


What happened to you? The only thing worthless here are your posts. 

I use a wiggy without a continuity tester on a daily basis, so do many other people on this forum and in this thread. For you to call it completely worthless is simply idiotic.

As I mentioned earlier, it would be nice to have a continuity tester built-in, but it’s not a dealbreaker. The basic wiggy still serves me very well, as I mentioned in my first post when I said that I’ve tried everything else and have returned to it.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

It probably comes down to what kind of work we do on a daily basis. The wiggy works well for the mostly resi stuff I do. I also have a tic tester. When I'm working on generators, I need all the features so I reach for the fluke 28 or sometimes the 189. If I need the clamp, the 381 comes out after I change the batteries again...


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

HackWork said:


> What happened to you? The only thing worthless here are your posts.
> 
> I use a wiggy without a continuity tester on a daily basis, so do many other people on this forum and in this thread. For you to call it completely worthless is simply idiotic.
> 
> As I mentioned earlier, it would be nice to have a continuity tester built-in, but it’s not a dealbreaker. The basic wiggy still serves me very well, as I mentioned in my first post when I said that I’ve tried everything else and have returned to it.


I have a need to measure continuity all the time when doing residential troubleshooting, especially to determine circuit integrity back to the panel by testing N-G or for ringing out circuits. It makes zero sense to carry two separate testers when they make good quality digital ones that do both. So like I said, a voltage-only tester is worthless to me.


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## cad99 (Feb 19, 2012)

My employer bought me a ideal von con when I went to industrial maintenance. I laughed but use it every day fluke comes out for when need hard numbers. But all day in the bag is the volcon. Ours has replacement leads available and silicone but not of fluke quality. It’s a great go nogo all day tester. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> I bought the T+ Pro and it's a great meter, but I don't break it out unless I need the additional functions. The etcon is more pocket sized. Turns out I don't need more than voltage and continuity most of the time.
> 
> 
> 
> The Knopp is really nice but I decided having the continuity tester in the same tool is a must for me, I use it constantly.


I had the first Fluke volt-con, I forget the model number. It didn't have a solenoid so I didn't care much for it.

I love the T+ Pro, pocket sized and can handle a lot of basic troubleshooting.


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## HertzHound (Jan 22, 2019)

MTW said:


> I have a need to measure continuity all the time when doing residential troubleshooting, especially to determine circuit integrity back to the panel by testing N-G or for ringing out circuits. It makes zero sense to carry two separate testers when they make good quality digital ones that do both. So like I said, a voltage-only tester is worthless to me.


I got by all these years with using voltage for my continuity checks. Just send power out and back to check continuity. It’s probably more fool proof most of the time. There are times It won’t work. But at that point I’ll get an ohmmeter. 

I bought a Fluke T5-600 once. The first time I used it was in a crawl space of an attic working at the In-laws for free. Their rental is a total disaster (I refuse to work there anymore). I had to fix a splice above the kitchen sink. Three two wires in the box. One feed. One light over sink. One dead end switch leg. I left the switch off. Should have power on feed, open on switch leg and continuity on light. For whatever reason the resistance of the ballast must have been higher than the T5 could read. I was so pissed off when I climbed out of the attic I almost smashed the brand new tester in the driveway. I returned the tester. Maybe the T5-1000 would have worked because it has a higher resistance range?

That was the only Fluke I ever owned until recent. I bought the T+Pro because I wanted to fit in here. Nice tester but they really should have more range in the resistance end. I haven’t really used it though. I just don’t use testers the way I used to. I had to check the fuses in a disconnect in the shop a few weeks ago. I had to borrow a tester.


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## HertzHound (Jan 22, 2019)

Actually now that I think about it, while I was up in the attic, I could have used power for my continuity. I could have spliced the black feed to one of the other blacks. If I had power on the neutral, that would have been the light because the switch was open. 

Oh well. I’m still never working in that fire trap again.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

HertzHound, using power to check for continuity is even easier when using Wago lever nuts to connect temp power to those wires :biggrin:


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

MTW said:


> Hi Hack Boy. :vs_wave:
> 
> A voltage tester without a continuity feature is completely worthless. If you're going to use a solenoidal tester, the VolCon is the best. That was my go to tester before the digital ones came out.


I disagree. The first tester I grab when I go on a call, be it residential, commercial, or industrial, is my Knopp. The second tester I grab is my Fluke 87, and the 3rd is my Fluke 376FC or my Amprobe megger. I check for voltage well before I check for continuity most of the time. Most of the industrial places we do work for have 120v control, and the feedback from the Knopp is easy to figure out, without having to tweak the range on the Fluke 87 low Z scale. I like the audio and physical feedback from the wiggy-type testers when troubleshooting, because it lets me think ahead to the next thing when I don't have to interpret results on a DMM screen as to whether its induced voltage or not. Sure, I can figure out pretty quickly, but it's easier to not have to.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Dumb question time. I have a NCVT and a Fluke 324. What will these other testers do for me?


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Maybe nothing.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Dumb question time. I have a NCVT and a Fluke 324. What will these other testers do for me?


If you can't tell from this thread, all the other threads on wiggy's, and your own knowledge of ghost voltages, then I don't think we can help you now.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> If you can't tell from this thread, all the other threads on wiggy's, and your own knowledge of ghost voltages, then I don't think we can help you now.


Okay, thanks.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Dumb question time. I have a NCVT and a Fluke 324. What will these other testers do for me?


Dumb answers:

1. You can't tell voltage with any degree of accuracy with an NCVT

2. You can't tell if you have ghost voltage with a digital meter unless it's LoZ.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Dumb answers:
> 
> 1. You can't tell voltage with any degree of accuracy with an NCVT
> 
> 2. You can't tell if you have ghost voltage with a digital meter unless it's LoZ.


Okay, more dumb questions:

I can check voltage with the 324 and it might show 0.8 volts. I take that as zero. If it reads 120 or 120.8, what’s the difference? I am trying to wrap my head around when a wiggy is useful. If the NCVT is confusing me, that’s when I pull out the Fluke.

Literature says a Wiggy will test a GFCI but I don’t care about that. It has a test button.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Okay, more dumb questions:
> 
> I can check voltage with the 324 and it might show 0.8 volts. I take that as zero. If it reads 120 or 120.8, what’s the difference?


 In those two instances you are not dealing with ghost voltage. 

Ghost voltage is when your meter or tick tracer tell you a circuit is hot due to inductance, usually caused by the dead wires being in close proximity to live ones. So the meter would show 115V or the tick tracer would alert, even though it is actually dead.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Okay, more dumb questions:
> 
> I can check voltage with the 324 and it might show 0.8 volts. I take that as zero. If it reads 120 or 120.8, what’s the difference? I am trying to wrap my head around when a wiggy is useful. If the NCVT is confusing me, that’s when I pull out the Fluke.
> 
> Literature says a Wiggy will test a GFCI but I don’t care about that. It has a test button.


What about when you read 80.53 vac with the digital and a wiggy would say 0?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> What about when you read *80.53 vac* with the digital and a wiggy would say 0?


For a period of time I followed MDShunk's advice and just used a T5-600 for everything while discounting any voltage lower than 100-105V or so to be ghost voltage.

I got shocked at least once, a few small arc blasts, a few ruined tools, and a lot of trips back and forth due to thinking the circuit was on when it actually was dead. Ghost voltage can read up to 120V. 

So I find it easier to just use the Wiggy in the first place.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> In those two instances you are not dealing with ghost voltage.
> 
> Ghost voltage is when your meter or tick tracer tell you a circuit is hot due to inductance, usually caused by the dead wires being in close proximity to live ones. So the meter would show 115V or the tick tracer would alert, even though it is actually dead.


So you’re saying an induced voltage could read as high as 115V on a normal multimeter? I seriously didn’t know that. I guess a poor man’s wiggy would be a pigtail and a light bulb.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> So you’re saying an induced voltage could read as high as 115V on a normal multimeter? I seriously didn’t know that.


Yup.

From NEMA: 


> BULLETIN
> No. 88
> October 1998
> Revised February 2003
> ...


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> For a period of time I followed MDShunk's advice and just used a T5-600 for everything while discounting any voltage lower than 100-105V or so to be ghost voltage.
> 
> I got shocked at least once, a few small arc blasts, a few ruined tools, and a lot of trips back and forth due to thinking the circuit was on when it actually was dead. Ghost voltage can read up to 120V.
> 
> So I find it easier to just use the Wiggy in the first place.


I've lucked out, only turned one pair of dikes into 12ga strippers that way.

That's when I decided to try the T+ Pro.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

HackWork said:


> In those two instances you are not dealing with ghost voltage.
> 
> Ghost voltage is when your meter or tick tracer tell you a circuit is hot due to inductance, usually caused by the dead wires being in close proximity to live ones. So the meter would show 115V or the tick tracer would alert, even though it is actually dead.


that and for a while there were some resi dimmers that would get a small nuteral current from the ground wire SMFH


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

99cents said:


> So you’re saying an induced voltage could read as high as 115V on a normal multimeter? I seriously didn’[email protected]; know that. I guess a poor man’s wiggy would be a pigtail and a light bulb.



Actually, every AC voltage you have ever read is an induced voltage. The induction in most cases takes place in these specialized induction devices called “transformers” but the basic principle of induction can take place anywhere an ungrounded conductor is in close proximity to a current carrying conductor.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

five.five-six said:


> Actually, every AC voltage you have ever read is an induced voltage. The induction in most cases takes place in these specialized induction devices called “transformers” but the basic principle of induction can take place anywhere an ungrounded conductor is in close proximity to a current carrying conductor.


I never thought of it that way but you’re right!


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

99, old timers would make testers out of a weather proof socket, some test lead, stainless weld rod sharpened and phenolite for handles. A 230 volt bulb, and away you go.


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## em158 (Jul 7, 2016)

just the cowboy said:


> I still to this day hate the loud click and small arc when used at 480 volts. But I would not be without it, still trust it more than low z meter.


You should see the remains of one that has been used on 4160.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

em158 said:


> You should see the remains of one that has been used on 4160.


I have heard stories, but never actually saw it happen. Welcome to the forum.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

I own a poop pot full of testers and carry and use a wiggy whenever I am in the field.

https://www.amazon.com/Knopp-K-60-C...139&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&tag=googhydr-20


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## Tonedeaf (Nov 26, 2012)

I stopped using mine 20 years ago when the fist Fluke T5 came out about 1997ish.

I keep it it the truck for a back up but haven't used it in two decades


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## MCasey (Dec 7, 2016)

We supply our people with an Ideal volt con and a Fluke clamp meter. I insist they use the volt con before touching a conductor. We do not provide or suggest non contact testers.


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