# Learning to bend on a Chicago bender



## Golden Arc (Apr 28, 2008)

I recently went from doing commercial construction to doing industrial maintenance. I am not used to running 3/4 and 1 inch rigid using a Chicago bender. Does anybody have any tips or know any websites that would be helpful?


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## Malaking_TT (Dec 17, 2010)

Golden Arc said:


> I recently went from doing commercial construction to doing industrial maintenance. I am not used to running 3/4 and 1 inch rigid using a Chicago bender. Does anybody have any tips or know any websites that would be helpful?


Tip. Use regular hand benders. I recommend Ideal brand.


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## Golden Arc (Apr 28, 2008)

Malaking_TT said:


> Tip. Use regular hand benders. I recommend Ideal brand.




They don't have very many hand benders readily avaiable like they do Chicago benders.


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## Malaking_TT (Dec 17, 2010)

Golden Arc said:


> They don't have very many hand benders readily avaiable like they do Chicago benders.


They're cheap. Platt sells them.


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## Control Freak (Mar 8, 2008)

Find your true deducts. ( because Chicago's tend to get banged up a bit.)

Also I don't bend offsets with multipliers. Usually the factory markings are worn off on them cause like i said they get banged up ( because we only use them for slab work really) . There is a way to bend sets like that when you really can't get the bender level.

Give yourself a longer handle for the bender as well for a little more leverage.

Rigid is great to work with. True craftsmanship! It's fun to spin sh$& together........ But your shop needs a real bender like a cyclone. Perfect compact bender. Give me that and a power pony and I'm good!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Control Freak (Mar 8, 2008)

Malaking_TT said:


> Tip. Use regular hand benders. I recommend Ideal brand.


I don't think you're going to buy your own benders right?


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

Going to have to waste a couple of pieces temporarily to learn your gain, stub up, clicks per degree, and maybe travel method if you want. 

Normally feed through from one end continuously going one direction.

Be smart about using three piece couplings.

Time with the same bender will fix a lot of errors..

Get an Ugly's Reference Book. Big Orange will have it for about $15 plus or minus a buck. Depends on where you live.


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## Malaking_TT (Dec 17, 2010)

Control Freak said:


> I don't think you're going to buy your own benders right?


I haven't yet but I've thought about it. Pisses me off when all I get is a crap greenlee.


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

The bender handle for a Chicago is just 1 1/4" GRC He can make a handle that works!


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

If you can't use your hand benders then you'll have to bend a few as test pieces and write down the true numbers. Each Chicago bender gets it's own flavor over time. Trial & error till your familiar with it.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Malaking_TT said:


> I haven't yet but I've thought about it. Pisses me off when all I get is a crap greenlee.


Me and a journey were running some 3/4 emt and bent a 45 offset with a greenlee bender. Both sides were kinked. I'm not sure if it was the bender, or the roof (it's soft), or both. But I never had a problem like that with the ideal benders.


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## s.kelly (Mar 20, 2009)

For the most part, I agree, forget multipliers. Unless I need something very specific, I prefer to bend one half of the offset counting "clicks" of the ratchet mech. Measure and bend the other side.

If you do not have a "no dog" type offset now is the time to get one. With time you will need it less and less, but it helps when you need precision.

If there is a scrap pile of shorts around, make some test bends and learn the bender.

RockyD and Control Freak have good advice.

It is different than a foot bender, takes a little longer, but I would rather run rigid than EMT any day.


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## Malaking_TT (Dec 17, 2010)

Frasbee said:


> Me and a journey were running some 3/4 emt and bent a 45 offset with a greenlee bender. Both sides were kinked. I'm not sure if it was the bender, or the roof (it's soft), or both. But I never had a problem like that with the ideal benders.


When bending allied EMT make sure the stamp in the pipe that says "EMT" in not to the inside of your bender shoe or it will kink right there. I've noticed it to be worse on the greenlees. The reason I like Ideal brand better is the star is more accurate (or seems to be) and I use the star almost as much as the arrow. Always comes out perfect with an Ideal, not so awesome with the greenlee.


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

If you don't have a no dog, and it has to be exposed...Strap a small piece of strut to te tail of the pipe, so that everything remains true. Put your bubble on the strut...


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## miller_elex (Jan 25, 2008)

Ratchet benders.... okay.

Ratchet threaders.... NO WAY! That chit about killed me dead after the fourth one.


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## s.kelly (Mar 20, 2009)

Never thought of the strut on the end. That is going to come in handy!


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## dowmace (Jan 16, 2008)

miller_elex said:


> Ratchet benders.... okay.
> 
> Ratchet threaders.... NO WAY! That chit about killed me dead after the fourth one.


I would much rather use my ratcheting threaders than a power pony, if it's small enough for me to use the pony on then I would rather just use my ratcheter on it and be done with it. I know a lot of guys use the power pony just fine. I just always fight with mine for some reason it must just be me.


I hate chicago benders absolutely hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate the mother things. Greenlee 555 is great.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Control Freak said:


> I don't think you're going to buy your own benders right?


There is nothing wrong with having your own set of pipe benders i recommend ideal benders money well spent..:thumbsup:


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

IMO, hand benders are for EMT and Chicago style benders are for RMC and IMC. I have used both extensively and both types have their pros and cons.

In an industrial atmosphere you should check for company SOP about the kind of conduit allowed. I have worked where EMT was fine and in some were EMT was not allowed.

And whatever you do, don't buy your own benders unless you are starting a business. Most facilities do not allow tools to be brought into the facility, as some places provide hand tools in conjunction with things like benders and do not want any confusion as to who owns what. They also replace these things at no cost, so just leave your stuff at home.

Like everyone said Chicago benders take some getting use to. The tricks will come, especially if you are working with a seasoned hand.
Many offsets like already mentioned can be eliminated with Unistrut. It takes time and patience. If you know how to bend with a hand bender, you should pick this right up.
In manufacturing, conduit is exposed. You want to be able to stand back and say "I built that". Appearance is everything with exposed conduits.
Good luck.


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## Mr Rewire (Jan 15, 2011)

wear gloves so you wont bleed all over the place when you mash your finger:thumbsup:


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

Frasbee said:


> Me and a journey were running some 3/4 emt and bent a 45 offset with a greenlee bender. Both sides were kinked. I'm not sure if it was the bender, or the roof (it's soft), or both. But I never had a problem like that with the ideal benders.


Proper pressure against the shoe is all important. One of the dangers of bending "upside down " is not getting enough pressure against the shoe. I tend to bend on 10 and 22.5 degree for three point saddles, and 30 degree offsets. When you have to pull the wire, you make the pipe smart as possible (and straight pipe is cheap pipe).

I like Ideal and Benfield benders for EMT. But then EMT sucks compared to GRC for forgiveness, You can do almost anything with GRC for corrections and "fudging" and still look good. Unfortunately the cost is way different...


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Rockyd said:


> Proper pressure against the shoe is all important. One of the dangers of bending "upside down " is not getting enough pressure against the shoe. I tend to bend on 10 and 22.5 degree for three point saddles, and 30 degree offsets. When you have to pull the wire, you make the pipe smart as possible (and straight pipe is cheap pipe).
> 
> I like Ideal and Benfield benders for EMT. But then EMT sucks compared to GRC for forgiveness, You can do almost anything with GRC for corrections and "fudging" and still look good. Unfortunately the cost is way different...


I hear you on ground bends. Good chance it was in the air (I gave him the measurements, he bent the pipe), since it was a 20' stick and we try to avoid bending on the soft rubber roof because it gives. The 45 was because of space constraints and obstacles preceding that. It was a 2' offset with only so much distance between each support. I walked the run before we ran it, that was the most painless route to go, and the only bend in the run.

I always thought EMT was pretty good for making corrections...so long as you make the right mistakes.


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## Malaking_TT (Dec 17, 2010)

Frasbee said:


> I hear you on ground bends. Good chance it was in the air (I gave him the measurements, he bent the pipe), since it was a 20' stick and we try to avoid bending on the soft rubber roof because it gives. The 45 was because of space constraints and obstacles preceding that. It was a 2' offset with only so much distance between each support. I walked the run before we ran it, that was the most painless route to go, and the only bend in the run.
> 
> I always thought EMT was pretty good for making corrections...so long as you make the right mistakes.


If you're bending on the ground on a soft surface it's basically like reducing foot pressure. I only bend 90's on the ground. Everything else is in the air. When I'm bending in a lift I bend 90's in the air. Grab bender handle with one hand, wrap elbow over pipe and squeeze while handle is not touching ground or lift.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

Malaking_TT said:


> Tip. Use regular hand benders. I recommend Ideal brand.


 
You must be a pretty big and strong fella. Even using the Klein Powr-Jacks, you're still talking $250 new for both and you need a whole lot of azz........... I'd be impressed to see you manhandle that on a hand bender for just six hours straight running branch...........


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## Malaking_TT (Dec 17, 2010)

76nemo said:


> You must be a pretty big and strong fella. Even using the Klein Powr-Jacks, you're still talking $250 new for both and you need a whole lot of azz........... I'd be impressed to see you manhandle that on a hand bender for just six hours straight running branch...........


I'm about 155lbs. I can bend 3/4 rigid easily with a hand bender. I can do 1" but it is pretty difficult.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

Malaking_TT said:


> I'm about 155lbs. I can bend 3/4 rigid easily with a hand bender. I can do 1" but it is pretty difficult.


 
I'm the same weight, but doing overhand for a couple of hours straight would be difficult if nothing more than simple offsets........


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## Golden Arc (Apr 28, 2008)

Yeah im about 160 and scrawny and bending a 3 point saddle with a hand bender was damn near impossible. 


To be more specific with my earlier question i was wondering about bending 3 point saddles also just in general, the marks you make on your pipe do you go by the line on the bender(someone has marked it with a sharpie) just like you would the arrow on a hand bender? Ive been putting my marks to the front of the shoe.


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## Malaking_TT (Dec 17, 2010)

Golden Arc said:


> Ive been putting my marks to the front of the shoe.


I think that's correct but I've only used a Chicago bender once a long time ago and hated it.


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## cdnelectrician (Mar 14, 2008)

Chicago benders are the way to go when running small rigid...takes some getting used to but I liked using it, you can do some really nice conduit work with one . It was also handy to have when working in an explosive atmosphere, instead of bending everything on the electric bender way out in the shop we just did it at the site with the chicago since there were no electric tools allowed in there. And yes, that meant ratchet threaders too !


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

Golden Arc said:


> I recently went from doing commercial construction to doing industrial maintenance. I am not used to running 3/4 and 1 inch rigid using a Chicago bender. Does anybody have any tips or know any websites that would be helpful?


Chicago benders are THE TOOL for running rigid. 

Tips:
For offsets, use some scraps to bend, to determine the bend centers of the degree bends normally used. Mark these locations on the bender shoe.

ALWAYS use math to determine offset center to center measurements.

Strap a 10 to 12 inch piece of strut to the pipe on which to place your level.
DO NOT USE THIS AS A LEVER TO ALIGN THE BENDS.

Get yourself a magnetic protractor for about $15 at Sears, HD Lowes, ect.

On 90s, to allow for spring back, it is usually easier/faster to over bend a little on small conduit, and unbend the overshoot, rather than wrestling the bend back into the bender to add a few more degrees.

It all gets easier with practice.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

varmit said:


> Strap a 10 to 12 inch piece of strut to the pipe on which to place your level.
> DO NOT USE THIS AS A LEVER TO ALIGN THE BENDS.



Or just buy a 'no-dog' level


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

Chicagos work fine. Get good at it and the hand benders wil gather dust. If you need to segment bend a chicago makes it easy. I perfer the strut method for level, it is more accurate than a no-dog.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

drsparky said:


> I perfer the strut method for level, it is more accurate than a no-dog.


To each their own but I really do not believe that one bubble in liquid is really more accurate then another.


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

BBQ said:


> To each their own but I really do not believe that one bubble in liquid is really more accurate then another.


Bubbles react to gravity the same but it seems to me that strut method it is easier to see small changes of a few degrees than on a no-dog.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Frasbee said:


> Me and a journey were running some 3/4 emt and bent a 45 offset with a greenlee bender. Both sides were kinked. I'm not sure if it was the bender, or the roof (it's soft), or both. But I never had a problem like that with the ideal benders.[/quote


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## Golden Arc (Apr 28, 2008)

varmit said:


> Chicago benders are THE TOOL for running rigid.
> 
> Tips:
> For offsets, use some scraps to bend, to determine the bend centers of the degree bends normally used. Mark these locations on the bender shoe.
> ...



Sorry but to be more clear when i said i wasn't used to running 3/4 or 1 inch rigid using a Chicago Bender it was because the only time i had really ran rigid was probably 3" or above using a hydraulic bender everything else has been EMT on a hand bender. I also have a no dog level and they dont allow you to bring your own tools into the plant you have to get a permit just to use a drill. 



I am getting the hang of offsets but the problem is 3 point saddles. Say for instance i want to bend a small saddle to go over a piece of 3/4 or 1 inch pipe. I make my three marks but the shoe will not allow you to get close enough to the ohter marks after making the first bend.


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

Golden Arc said:


> Sorry but to be more clear when i said i wasn't used to running 3/4 or 1 inch rigid using a Chicago Bender it was because the only time i had really ran rigid was probably 3" or above using a hydraulic bender everything else has been EMT on a hand bender. I also have a no dog level and they dont allow you to bring your own tools into the plant you have to get a permit just to use a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> I am getting the hang of offsets but the problem is 3 point saddles. Say for instance i want to bend a small saddle to go over a piece of 3/4 or 1 inch pipe. I make my three marks but the shoe will not allow you to get close enough to the ohter marks after making the first bend.


You have to lay out the bends, using a degree of bend that spaces the center lines far enough apart, to allow enough center to center spacing to allow the bend to be done in the bender. As I said above, you must mark the bend CENTER LINE of degrees of bend, that you commonly use, normally 10, 15 and 30, on the bender.

An example: Say that you need a 2 inch saddle in a piece of 3/4 RMC. The shortest center to center (C/L) measurement, that will fit is about 7 inches.
You can lay out the bend using 15-30-15 degrees. Mark where you want the C/L to be. Make another mark 7.7 inches (7 11/16") each way from the C/L. mark. Put the mark, closest to the shortest end of the conduit, on the 15 degree mark on the bending shoe. Put your level perpendicular on the pipe, 
bend 15 degrees. Rotate pipe 180 degrees, align the center mark of the 3 marks on the pipe with the 30 degree mark on the bender. Bend 30 degrees. rotate pipe 180 degrees and align the third mark, on the pipe, with the 15 degree mark on the bender. Bend 15 degrees. Check for straitness/ accuracy and install.

It becomes easier with a little practice. Good luck on the new job.


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## Golden Arc (Apr 28, 2008)

varmit said:


> You have to lay out the bends, using a degree of bend that spaces the center lines far enough apart, to allow enough center to center spacing to allow the bend to be done in the bender. As I said above, you must mark the bend CENTER LINE of degrees of bend, that you commonly use, normally 10, 15 and 30, on the bender.
> 
> An example: Say that you need a 2 inch saddle in a piece of 3/4 RMC. The shortest center to center (C/L) measurement, that will fit is about 7 inches.
> You can lay out the bend using 15-30-15 degrees. Mark where you want the C/L to be. Make another mark 7.7 inches (7 11/16") each way from the C/L. mark. Put the mark, closest to the shortest end of the conduit, on the 15 degree mark on the bending shoe. Put your level perpendicular on the pipe,
> ...



Ok i was trying to bend doing 22-45-22 and bending the 45 degree bend first just like on a hand bender. Also you usually bend the first bend on the notch on a hand bender but on a Chicago there is no notch.


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## sparkymcwiresalot (Jan 29, 2011)

I use my no dog for offsets and reserve the strut method when I'm doing concentric multishot bends. The no dog isn't accurate enough to keep from cork screwing the pipe on multishot bends.


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## MIGMONKEY (Oct 10, 2015)

My world changed when a seasoned jman showed me a nifty trick with the Greenlee 555. Tip the thing on its back. Shim to make sure its level. Throw your pipe in. Do your bend. Release tension by going to -5 degrees. Throw your level on the pipe past the last bend. Level by rotating the pipe. Bend. Zero dogs all day long. Where it gets complicated is when your doing a saddle and you do your second part of the saddle.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

drsparky said:


> Bubbles react to gravity the same but it seems to me that strut method it is easier to see small changes of a few degrees than on a no-dog.


 ....no dog can only be attached to the end of conduit, while strut can be attached anywhere on conduit. I use no dog most of time tho, wish they'd make the bubble larger


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

dowmace said:


> ...
> I hate chicago benders absolutely hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate hate the mother things. Greenlee 555 is great.


I will take the Chicago bender over the 555 every time for detail bends on 3/4" and 1".


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)




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## Jhellwig (Jun 18, 2014)

drsparky said:


>


If the guy hasn't figure out how to use a Chicago in the last 4 years he needs to not be an electrician.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> I will take the Chicago bender over the 555 every time for detail bends on 3/4" and 1".


Amen, brother.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

BBQ said:


> To each their own but I really do not believe that one bubble in liquid is really more accurate then another.


The shorter the bubble vial the less accurate the level....typical "no-dogs" have much shorter bubble vials than a torpedo level (it is not really the length of the vial but the radius of the curvature, you can get a bigger radius (more accurate) in an longer vial). However the "no-dog" takes a lot less time than a piece of strut and a level.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I would like to hear feedback on that new sidewinder 555 with the quad shoes that bend 4 identical at the same time. Anybody had a chance to try it? Once you got your bending skills down on sidewinders , offsets are not so hard to do, and 4 at the same time and exactly the same seems like it could be of real value if you are chugging commercial buildouts like I used to do.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> I will take the Chicago bender over the 555 every time for detail bends on 3/4" and 1".


If I walked into a room and found the small size shoe on the 555 especially if I see somebody trying to bend 3/4'' on it , they be fired and out the door. 
WTF??


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> If I walked into a room and found the small size shoe on the 555 especially if I see somebody trying to bend 3/4'' on it , they be fired and out the door.
> WTF??


So what's wrong with bending 3/4" on a 555? Do you prefer a hand bender?

If you only have a couple of bends to make on 3/4" rigid then use the hand bender. If you're running pipe all day then using a Chicago bender or 555 electric is the way to go. Either one is preferable to hand bending all day. Just my opinion.


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## MIGMONKEY (Oct 10, 2015)

macmikeman said:


> If I walked into a room and found the small size shoe on the 555 especially if I see somebody trying to bend 3/4'' on it , they be fired and out the door.
> WTF??


If someone went back to the job box to get some lock washers because they forgot, would you beat them senseless?

I like the 555 because you can avoid dogs all day long. There are a ton of journeymen who are always jamming their pipe under the scissor lift to make final adjustments to the pipe after using the hand bender. Or maybe the company I work for just hires scrubs.:laughing:


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## pipeandwire (Dec 28, 2016)

Golden Arc said:


> Sorry but to be more clear when i said i wasn't used to running 3/4 or 1 inch rigid using a Chicago Bender it was because the only time i had really ran rigid was probably 3" or above using a hydraulic bender everything else has been EMT on a hand bender. I also have a no dog level and they dont allow you to bring your own tools into the plant you have to get a permit just to use a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> I am getting the hang of offsets but the problem is 3 point saddles. Say for instance i want to bend a small saddle to go over a piece of 3/4 or 1 inch pipe. I make my three marks but the shoe will not allow you to get close enough to the ohter marks after making the first bend.


due to short 3 pointers and even small offset on chic bender i like to make my bends @ 15 and 30 rather then 22 and 45. on regular benders ill even go 10 degrees then 20. makes things much easier to pull when either pulling by yourself or pulling big cable. plus if using a chicago bender and u have a large offset just put it up on the gangbox so the nose doesnt hit the ground on the second bend. i have an anti-dog but i dont usually use it. i believe in the shoe method "the bend will always follow the shoe" but i do like to level off the side of the shoe so i know my kicks will be level.


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## pipeandwire (Dec 28, 2016)

macmikeman said:


> If I walked into a room and found the small size shoe on the 555 especially if I see somebody trying to bend 3/4'' on it , they be fired and out the door.
> WTF??


i do agree with what another member said.. if ur bending rigid all day with the same shoe theres nothing wrong with the triple nickle, cyclone or chic bender. ESPECIALLY if working outside and me and the pipe are cold. using a foot bender under those circumstances make for pretty ugly long 90's. with any of the mechanical benders u know your gonna get the same bend everytime. and if your bending rigid THATS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. especially if your using a mule and dont have a porta pony for messups.


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## Cl906um (Jul 21, 2012)

pipeandwire said:


> i do agree with what another member said.. if ur bending rigid all day with the same shoe theres nothing wrong with the triple nickle, cyclone or chic bender. ESPECIALLY if working outside and me and the pipe are cold. using a foot bender under those circumstances make for pretty ugly long 90's. with any of the mechanical benders u know your gonna get the same bend everytime. and if your bending rigid THATS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. especially if your using a mule and dont have a porta pony for messups.


That reply took forever. Where am I? It's almost 2017. I have been sleeping for 2 years?


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## pipeandwire (Dec 28, 2016)

Cl906um said:


> That reply took forever. Where am I? It's almost 2017. I have been sleeping for 2 years?


hope u haven't been waiting for my reply  I just registered today


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## pipeandwire (Dec 28, 2016)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> I will take the Chicago bender over the 555 every time for detail bends on 3/4" and 1".


most people give up quickly on how to release the pipe after bending, which agreed can be frustrating at first. but like ANY bender, once ur use to it and know its gain and shrink they are all the same. may even be better then the trip nickle or cyclone cus u can put the arm directly into the shoe and get your fudge factor a smidge here or there where the others your at the discretion of hitting the button.


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## Cl906um (Jul 21, 2012)

pipeandwire said:


> hope u haven't been waiting for my reply  I just registered today


Welcome. I saw that, and replied to this old Azz thread to joke a bit. No biggie. You will find your way around soon enough I am sure. There are dates on the threads, and you kinda dug up some old bones.


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## Cl906um (Jul 21, 2012)

Just thought since you were from Chicago, you should reply to the Chicago bending thread. Or did you use Chicago as a search?


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## Cl906um (Jul 21, 2012)

Great. Now I scared you away. Just kidding.


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## pipeandwire (Dec 28, 2016)

Cl906um said:


> Great. Now I scared you away. Just kidding.


been working on a outdoor rigid project for a while. my buddy uses an app for all his dimensions and take-ups and positions. while I'm sure they are useful I have my own way and things typically work out how I want them. I was just searching for info that figures out roll offsets. I have my own method of width + height * .73 which gives me damn near exactly what I want but was just seeing if theres other ways.


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## pipeandwire (Dec 28, 2016)

I just did the hypotenuse cal and its actually .7-.71 been using .73 for years lol


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

Whatever happened to good ol A squared+B squared = C squared. 


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## Cl906um (Jul 21, 2012)

Pythagorean theorem


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## ElectricMatt (Dec 29, 2016)

pipeandwire said:


> been working on a outdoor rigid project for a while. my buddy uses an app for all his dimensions and take-ups and positions. while I'm sure they are useful I have my own way and things typically work out how I want them. I was just searching for info that figures out roll offsets. I have my own method of width + height * .73 which gives me damn near exactly what I want but was just seeing if theres other ways.




That is pretty close... I just use the good old Pythagorean theorem. A squared + B squared = C squared.... but I may use the .73 when I am running EMT. For rigid I am a little more particular about being "nuts"



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