# Problem with Greenlee Quick-cutter hole saw



## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Why would you try to cut slow with a hole saw?

My tip is to start at the fastest setting and ease your way against the surface, don't jam it in there to the point you'd _have_ to use the torque setting on whatever drill you're using.

Unless your bit is truly defective, or just really dull, I don't see why that method wouldn't work.

Wait...is it for wood or metal?

Because I just learned a little trick for the metal the involves a washer.


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## OMS (Apr 23, 2008)

The quick cutter is an adjustable hole saw used for recessed lighting installation in drywall. It has two blades. Have you used this model of saw?


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## Toronto Sparky (Apr 12, 2009)

Steel high speed lube with oil.. Aluminum use water. If Stainless get some cutting compound designed for stainless (works great).


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

You are much better off using a keyhole saw to cut the rock than a holesaw.

Once you cut into pipes or wires above the ceiling, you will understand why I say this. 

Cut 100 holes with a hand held saw and 100 time you won't have to fix a thing.. *IF YOU ARE CAREFUL :thumbsup:*


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## jbberns (Jan 14, 2009)

I have used it a lot for cutting ceiling tiles for can lights. I thought it works great. 
I always went fairly fast but don't put a lot of pressure on it. Never tried sheet rock. Looks like this.

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/greenlee/06923/


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## OMS (Apr 23, 2008)

Thanks. I'll try it on tiles next. It comes with a bowl to catch the cuttings. I think for sheet-rock I'll try it without the bowl. This should help engage those little spring-steel "stabilizers."


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

Frasbee said:


> Why would you try to cut slow with a hole saw?
> 
> My tip is to start at the fastest setting and ease your way against the surface, don't jam it in there to the point you'd _have_ to use the torque setting on whatever drill you're using.
> 
> ...


 i always use my hole hawg on slow with hole saws. its much more powerful and i feel that i can control it better. i havnt had that hole hawg smash me in the face or fly out of my hands in a long time doing it like this


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## jbberns (Jan 14, 2009)

Frasbee said:


> Because I just learned a little trick for the metal the involves a washer.


Probally have to be a pretty big washer for this set up, if its the trick i'm thinking of.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

I think it's a piece of junk. Throw it away before you screw up someone's ceiling (like me). I use one that's branded Lightolier. It uses two replaceable blades that are also adjustable. It has a DURABLE plastic shield that sits real tight against the ceiling and you won't drill into any pipes because you control the depth. There are a few just like mine on the market. Just make sure it has two blades vs. just one (I have both).


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I have used it and even when drilling into ceiling tiles placed over a bucket every once in a while it binds and bucks back. I haven't used it in a sheetrock ceiling. I have used a regular holesaw made for can lights and have never had any issues with it, even in a cordless drill.


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## Larry Fine (Oct 24, 2007)

I use 'real' hole-saws with an 18" or 2' extension, which makes it a lot easier to keep the saw against the ceiling evenly.

I use deep 6" and 8" clear plastic potted-plant liners. They're shaped just like the ones the fancy hole cutter kits come with.

It takes about 5 seconds for a 6-3/8" hole with my 36v DeWalt drill. I keep a trashcan next to me to dump the slug and dust into.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Roto-zip. Just don't mangle all the wires like the rockers like to do.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

Larry Fine said:


> I use 'real' hole-saws with an 18" or 2' extension, which makes it a lot easier to keep the saw against the ceiling evenly.
> 
> I use deep 6" and 8" clear plastic potted-plant liners. They're shaped just like the ones the fancy hole cutter kits come with.
> 
> It takes about 5 seconds for a 6-3/8" hole with my 36v DeWalt drill. I keep a trashcan next to me to dump the slug and dust into.


Can't beat a real hole saw.

I had one job to retrofit about 70 high hats in areas with sheet rock ceiling tiles. I ordered the right size hole saw about 6- 5/8" with a grit edge instead of teeth. There is no question the saw paid for itself a few times over.


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