# Milwaukee Hackzall's



## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

If you’re running emt all day long (1.5” and under), I’d recommend the m12 band saw. Also great for cutting down bolts, cutting strut, threaded rod, lots of stuff.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

The non-Fuel model doesn't have anywhere near the power as the Fuel model. 

Also, when the pipe vibrates it means that you aren't holding it tight enough to the guard. You gotta pull it into the guard very hard. And use a good blade with small teeth.


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

If you do any amount of conduit work I would highly recommend the bandsaw. I will walk out to my truck to get the bandsaw a lot of times rather than pick up the sawzall right beside me for even one cut. There is no comparison. Actually I hardly even use a sawzall anymore.

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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Forge Boyz said:


> If you do any amount of conduit work I would highly recommend the bandsaw.


 I agree with this, if you are doing a good amount of conduit work.

But this...


> I will walk out to my truck to get the bandsaw a lot of times rather than pick up the sawzall right beside me for even one cut. There is no comparison. Actually I hardly even use a sawzall anymore.


..is kinda crazy. Since I don't do that much conduit work, I don't use my bandsaw often at all. For the 4-5 cuts I might have to do, I will use my M12 Fuel Hackzawl which cuts thru EMT like butter. 

Walking out the the truck for a bandsaw to make 1 cut? :surprise:


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

HackWork said:


> I agree with this, if you are doing a good amount of conduit work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It sounds worse than it actually is. About the only times I have the sawzall off the truck is for big PVC pipe, hacking out wood for something on a resi job or if it won't fit in my bandsaw. So most times I have the sawzall out I would have to change the blade anyway.

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## zac (May 11, 2009)

Before I purchased the fuel version and the bandsaw I used the little hacksaw to cut emt. One job in particular i used it to cut 
1"1/4 - 1"1/2 all day with no problems.



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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Forge Boyz said:


> If you do any amount of conduit work I would highly recommend the bandsaw. I will walk out to my truck to get the bandsaw a lot of times rather than pick up the sawzall right beside me for even one cut. There is no comparison. Actually I hardly even use a sawzall anymore.
> 
> Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


Same, unless I already have a metal cutting blade in a sawzall. I use the crap out of my m12 bandsaw.


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

HackWork said:


> The non-Fuel model doesn't have anywhere near the power as the Fuel model.
> 
> Also, when the pipe vibrates it means that you aren't holding it tight enough to the guard. You gotta pull it into the guard very hard. And use a good blade with small teeth.


It looks like I will spend the extra dough to pick up the M12 Fuel version. Eventually I will pick up the M12 bandsaw but I currently don't do much EMT that is why I wanted the hackzall for a little bit more versatility. I think the blade I was using only had 14tpi. I know that 24tpi is better for EMT.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Rey said:


> It looks like I will spend the extra dough to pick up the M12 Fuel version. Eventually I will pick up the M12 bandsaw but I currently don't do much EMT that is why I wanted the hackzall for a little bit more versatility. I think the blade I was using only had 14tpi. I know that 24tpi is better for EMT.


If I had to do it over, I probably wouldn't even buy the bandsaw. It's awesome, but I just don't do that much pipe.

The M12 Fuel hackzawl is excellent for all-around work.


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

HackWork said:


> Rey said:
> 
> 
> > It looks like I will spend the extra dough to pick up the M12 Fuel version. Eventually I will pick up the M12 bandsaw but I currently don't do much EMT that is why I wanted the hackzall for a little bit more versatility. I think the blade I was using only had 14tpi. I know that 24tpi is better for EMT.
> ...


Yeah, I think I'll go your route Hackwork and opt for the m12 fuel . As much as I'd like to add that m12 bandsaw to the stable, I just don't do that much pipework to justify the purchase at the moment.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

IMO - 24TPI is ok for strut but marginal for small EMT, 32 TPI is better. 

I'd rather use a hacksaw than the non-fuel Hackzall on conduit and even the fuel hackzall is marginal with strut. 

The M12 mini bandsaw in five seconds will show you how much more efficient a bandsaw is than a reciprocating saw. It doesn't seem that ferocious if you just pull the trigger and run it, but it is an example of the slow and steady worker gets done first.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

You don’t need a Fuel. You’re using it wrong. Make sure the shoe is tight against the pipe. It should go through 1/2” EMT even with an old toothless blade, no problem.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

The non fuel hacksaw will always be in my arsenal. I like it for its small compactness and for cutting open drywall when I don't feel like burying a jbox[emoji1787][emoji1787]. 
If i could only choose one I'd go for the fuel version. The fuel version is roughly the same size as the non fuel m18 hacksaw. In my opinion that's just too big considering the m18 non fuel out outperforms it.

Also the m12 non fuel is great for underground work. 

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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I have used a non-Fuel Hackzall on EMT, rigid, PVC, strut, rebar and everything in between, no problem. Telling this guy to buy a Fuel is like telling a lousy driver to trade in his Civic for a Lamborghini and his problems will go away.


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

99cents said:


> I have used a non-Fuel Hackzall on EMT, rigid, PVC, strut, rebar and everything in between, no problem. Telling this guy to buy a Fuel is like telling a lousy driver to trade in his Civic for a Lamborghini and his problems will go away.


A lot of my problems would go away if I had a Lambo. with a whole new set of problems. 😊


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## Wireless (Jan 22, 2007)

tjb said:


> If you’re running emt all day long (1.5” and under), I’d recommend the m12 band saw. Also great for cutting down bolts, cutting strut, threaded rod, lots of stuff.



Even better than the bandsaw is the metal cutting circular saw


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

Wireless said:


> tjb said:
> 
> 
> > If you’re running emt all day long (1.5” and under), I’d recommend the m12 band saw. Also great for cutting down bolts, cutting strut, threaded rod, lots of stuff.
> ...


Those are pretty efficient but too noisy for me, however, they could be deemed on the versatile side by changing the blade to a wood blade. 

But we are electricians - not carpenters.

I like the m12 hackzalls and will head down to HD to go see how the fuel feels in my hands compared to the non fuel.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac is right about the non-Fuel M12 Hackzawl being smaller and handy for softer things like drywall and PVC. 

But the other guy is dead wrong about it being good for steel like rigid pipe or rebar. The Fuel model is much more powerful while still being easily handled with 1 hand. If you are going to get one, the M12 Fuel is a no brainer.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> zac is right about the non-Fuel M12 Hackzawl being smaller and handy for softer things like drywall and PVC.
> 
> But the other guy is dead wrong about it being good for steel like rigid pipe or rebar. The Fuel model is much more powerful while still being easily handled with 1 hand. If you are going to get one, the M12 Fuel is a no brainer.


He said in his opening post that it vibrated like crazy. That means the pipe is moving with the saw blade. You will never cut anything unless the shoe is snug against the pipe and the pipe stays stationary.

My preference is 18V anyway. Longer blade travel and lots of power.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> He said in his opening post that it vibrated like crazy. That means the pipe is moving with the saw blade. You will never cut anything unless the shoe is snug against the pipe and the pipe stays stationary.


 Yes, if you look at the top you will see where I explained that he had to hold the pipe tight against the guard to avoid that. But that doesn't change the fact that the Fuel model is significantly more powerful. It's a night and day difference. I've had the non-Fuel bog down while cutting thru older 2x framing, and it's a dog on thicker steel. 



> My preference is 18V anyway. Longer blade travel and lots of power.


 While the tool itself is around the same size, the M18 battery is much larger and heavier. If I needed more power than the M12 Fuel, I would skip over the M18 model and just get the conventional M18 sawzall, which is a brute.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Personal preference I guess. I use the Bosch 18V now which is a Milwaukee clone. Even with a fat 6.3 battery, it’s easy to use. A full blown Sawzall is a completely different beast. I have one but never use it.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Personal preference I guess. I use the Bosch 18V now which is a Milwaukee clone. Even with a fat 6.3 battery, it’s easy to use. A full blown Sawzall is a completely different beast. I have one but never use it.


I haven't had to use a sawzall in a long time since the M12 Fuel Hackzawl does everything that I need. The last time I used a sawzall was to cut an 8" exhaust hole thru a very old house which had multiple sheathings.

The non-Fuel M12 Hackzawl is good for some instances, and if you have the money to spend on both then its fine. But the OP seems to only want to buy 1 tool now, so the Fuel model makes more sense, IMO.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

The M12 bandsaw gives me a woody.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I haven't had to use a sawzall in a long time since the M12 Fuel Hackzawl does everything that I need. The last time I used a sawzall was to cut an 8" exhaust hole thru a very old house which had multiple sheathings.
> 
> The non-Fuel M12 Hackzawl is good for some instances, and if you have the money to spend on both then its fine. But the OP seems to only want to buy 1 tool now, so the Fuel model makes more sense, IMO.


Yeah, like I say, personal preference. The 18V can handle some pretty gnarly chit but it is bigger and bulkier.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

Rey said:


> Those are pretty efficient but too noisy for me, however, they could be deemed on the versatile side by changing the blade to a wood blade.
> 
> But we are electricians - not carpenters.
> 
> I like the m12 hackzalls and will head down to HD to go see how the fuel feels in my hands compared to the non fuel.


I find that people who say that use an impact over a fuel drill (all m12). 

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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

HackWork said:


> I haven't had to use a sawzall in a long time since the M12 Fuel Hackzawl does everything that I need. The last time I used a sawzall was to cut an 8" exhaust hole thru a very old house which had multiple sheathings.
> 
> The non-Fuel M12 Hackzawl is good for some instances, and if you have the money to spend on both then its fine.  But the OP seems to only want to buy 1 tool now, so the Fuel model makes more sense, IMO.


 @HackWork, which blades and batteries do you like/prefer for the m12 fuel hackzall?


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

sorry for the repost...


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Rey said:


> sorry for the repost...


You better be or we will kick you to the curb in a second. 

Have you stepped in any human waste this week? :vs_laugh:


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Diablo blades are the best bang for the buck (made by Bosch I think). Milwaukee blades are overpriced.


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

99cents said:


> Diablo blades are the best bang for the buck (made by Bosch I think). Milwaukee blades are overpriced.


I can get Milwaukee blades @ cost + 10% so I'm good there. How many tpi do you like for EMT? I've ususally just went with 32tpi or 24tpi. I see Milwaukee makes some EMT blades but they are 14tpi :confused1:

And then it seems at least the 4.0 batteries for the 12v fuel is recommended to get any real work done?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Rey said:


> @HackWork, which blades and batteries do you like/prefer for the m12 fuel hackzall?


My father gave me a could hundred sawzall blades so I just use them. I don't even know the TPI. I just pick one with a lot of small teeth for metal and bigger teeth for wood.

I did buy some of those short Milwaukee blades which have come in handy a couple times.

The nice thing about the M12 line is that you can use the smaller batteries when needed. Sometimes you have to get the Hackzall into a tight spot and the 2.0 or 3.0 little battery works best. All other times I use the larger XC sized 4.0 or 6.0 batteries.


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

HackWork said:


> My father gave me a could hundred sawzall blades so I just use them. I don't even know the TPI. I just pick one with a lot of small teeth for metal and bigger teeth for wood.
> 
> I did buy some of those short Milwaukee blades which have come in handy a couple times.
> 
> The nice thing about the M12 line is that you can use the smaller batteries when needed. Sometimes you have to get the Hackzall into a tight spot and the 2.0 or 3.0 little battery works best. All other times I use the larger XC sized 4.0 or 6.0 batteries.



Okay, thanks.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> My father gave me a could hundred sawzall blades so I just use them. I don't even know the TPI. I just pick one with a lot of small teeth for metal and bigger teeth for wood.
> 
> I did buy some of those short Milwaukee blades which have come in handy a couple times.
> 
> The nice thing about the M12 line is that you can use the smaller batteries when needed. Sometimes you have to get the Hackzall into a tight spot and the 2.0 or 3.0 little battery works best. All other times I use the larger XC sized 4.0 or 6.0 batteries.


Same here. Small teeth metal; big, ugly teeth, wood. I was using 1/2” EMT for stakes and used an Axe blade. Worked good  .


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

ok, thanks guys.


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

Who has the best deal on the M12 Fuel Hackzall's?


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

HackWork said:


> I agree with this, if you are doing a good amount of conduit work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I also walk out to the van to get my bandsaw. The thing is awesome. Use it for EMT and just last week was using it to cut 500MCM copper on a 400 amp service... I had manual cutters beside me but went to get that bandsaw. 

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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Forge Boyz said:


> I will walk out to my truck to get the bandsaw a lot of times rather than pick up the sawzall right beside me for even one cut.





sbrn33 said:


> The M12 bandsaw gives me a woody.





Kevin_Essiambre said:


> I also walk out to the van to get my bandsaw. The thing is awesome.


I'll walk out to get the bandsaw for one cut but that has nothing to do with saving time. Sometimes I go out and take it out, pull the trigger, chuckle, pull the trigger, chuckle, do that a few more times, then put it away and go back to work.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I gotta be honest with you, the bandsaw isn't _that_ great. 

I primarily use it to cut old 1-1/4" service risers down to 4' lengths when doing a service upgrade and it doesn't cut thru all that quickly. It's pretty good, but nothing that special. And the 5 or 6 cuts I make will bring a new 4.0 battery down to 2 bars. I've noticed that with all my newer 4.0's.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I gotta be honest with you, the bandsaw isn't _that_ great.
> 
> I primarily use it to cut old 1-1/4" service risers down to 4' lengths when doing a service upgrade and it doesn't cut thru all that quickly. It's pretty good, but nothing that special. And the 5 or 6 cuts I make will bring a new 4.0 battery down to 2 bars. I've noticed that with all my newer 4.0's.


I wonder if you got a lemon. I think I cut more strut than that to get to two bars and that's a lot harder than 1-1/4" conduit.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

splatz said:


> I wonder if you got a lemon. I think I cut more strut than that to get to two bars and that's a lot harder than 1-1/4" conduit.


Not out here. Our risers are rigid.

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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Buy a 6 AH battery.


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## Rey (Nov 8, 2017)

tjb said:


> Buy a 6 AH battery.


 @tjb thanks I'll check it out.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> Not out here. Our risers are rigid.


Yes, I forgot to write rigid. All old services were rigid, I've never seen a resi service in EMT.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

tjb said:


> Buy a 6 AH battery.


They are good. I only have 1 because you pay a large premium for the best battery.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

HackWork said:


> Yes, I forgot to write rigid. All old services were rigid, I've never seen a resi service in EMT.


I have...









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## zac (May 11, 2009)

HackWork said:


> Yes, I forgot to write rigid. All old services were rigid, I've never seen a resi service in EMT.


I was assuming pvc. I thought your risers could be done in PVC. 

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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> I was assuming pvc. I thought your risers could be done in PVC.


Old services were mostly rigid, a few SE cable.

New services are mostly PVC and a few SE cable.

I have never seen EMT in resi. Only commercial.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

I'm sure it's been discussed here, but meter hubs aren't listed for anything but rigid. Of course, I just glue-softened a PVC TA this morning to screw into a meter hub, so....


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

CoolWill said:


> I'm sure it's been discussed here, but meter hubs aren't listed for anything but rigid. Of course, I just glue-softened a PVC TA this morning to screw into a meter hub, so....


Here in Canada we got these fancy PVC meter base hubs.

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