# Ceiling Fan designed for Remote; not switch



## FrunkSlammer

Return fan to Home Depot, they have a no hassle return policy.


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## chicken steve

imho remotes should be for TV, not essential lighting.....~CS~


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## Dennis Alwon

Many of the fans have a remote handheld but you can buy a wall remote as in the Minka Fans


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## dspiffy

How many wires come from the fan to the receiver, and what colors? Does the remote have a reverse function?

If the run cap for the motor is in the fan housing somewhere, it's easy to forgo the remote. If it's in the receiver you have to do some reverse engineering and either mount a reverse switch somewhere or lose the reverse switch.

I HATE ceiling fan remotes.


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## FrunkSlammer

I just hate ceiling fans entirely. 

Unfortunately they're great money makers because people either love them and put them up everywhere or people hate them and take them down everywhere.


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## dspiffy

I love them entirely. Love love love them. I cringe when people take them down.

Then again, 99% of what they sell now is complete and utter junk.


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## chicken steve

This would be a typical arrangement, although others exist>










according to our 210.70 as well as our 210.70 A 2 ex. provisions for dwelling units, we are too install 3ways for stairs, but a _'remote'_ can be used.

Often , as is the case, the lighting lady, HO or whatever _butinski _faction will introduce a fan/light

The light element in the fan being _required _for the stairwell, and operated off the switching _already_ installed

Now that a remote is foisted upon the job, either 3W becomes subject to it's presence. A rather ineffective scenario seeing as most folks can't keep track of their TV remote when the room IS lit , imho...

comments?

~CS~


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## chicken steve

dspiffy said:


> I love them entirely. Love love love them. I cringe when people take them down.
> 
> Then again, 99% of what they sell now is complete and utter junk.


Indeed, and every out of state 2nd home owner just _has_ to install them 30' up in their skibunny A frames , usually taking us 3 sets of staging to just change a bulb

AND the most sensitive piece of equipment IS the receiver , installed in the cup @ the roof line

Just what is the most susceptible area of an A frame in a lightning storm?

_yeppers _! this is why we DON"T sell lighting!.....:thumbsup:

~CS~


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## macmikeman

If the fan itself has only two leads coming out the stem you are jacked and it is sort of a dead end for you. If the fan has three leads coming out of the stem, then you can substitute the remote as long as you run a three wire cable to your switch. So what was the question again?


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## chicken steve

Whether he can forgo the remote on a unit that comes with one Mac

I'm wondering if , given a 3wire as you've mentioned, the remote can be used JUST for the fan, and NOT the light.....


~CS~


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## macmikeman

chicken steve said:


> Whether he can forgo the remote on a unit that comes with one Mac
> 
> I'm wondering if , given a 3wire as you've mentioned, the remote can be used JUST for the fan, and NOT the light.....
> 
> 
> ~CS~


I have done that many times. Or dispensed with them altogether and used a dual fan/ speed wall switch.


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## drumnut08

chicken steve said:


> Whether he can forgo the remote on a unit that comes with one Mac I'm wondering if , given a 3wire as you've mentioned, the remote can be used JUST for the fan, and NOT the light..... ~CS~


. Any fan I've ever installed that comes with a remote / receiver combo. , the receiver is external to the fan , like the aftermarket ones you can buy . If that's the case , simply don't wire in the receiver and hard wire directly to the fan with you're separate fan and light switch legs . If the receiver is " built - in " I'm sure it can still be bypassed , but you may end up taking more of the fan apart ?


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## drspec

drumnut08 said:


> . Any fan I've ever installed that comes with a remote / receiver combo. , the receiver is external to the fan , like the aftermarket ones you can buy . If that's the case , simply don't wire in the receiver and hard wire directly to the fan with you're separate fan and light switch legs . If the receiver is " built - in " I'm sure it can still be bypassed , but you may end up taking more of the fan apart ?


 
and what do you do when the fan doesn't have pullchains and the reversing switch is built into the remote?


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## macmikeman

drumnut08 said:


> . Any fan I've ever installed that comes with a remote / receiver combo. , the receiver is external to the fan , like the aftermarket ones you can buy . If that's the case , simply don't wire in the receiver and hard wire directly to the fan with you're separate fan and light switch legs . If the receiver is " built - in " I'm sure it can still be bypassed , but you may end up taking more of the fan apart ?


Try that with a $900 dollar Casseblanca sp) and you will be spending another $900 again for one that you can use the two new remotes you now own on.. 

You need a sledge hammer and a Lennox sawsall blade to access the guts...


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## drumnut08

macmikeman said:


> Try that with a $900 dollar Casseblanca sp) and you will be spending another $900 again for one that you can use the two new remotes you now own on.. You need a sledge hammer and a Lennox sawsall blade to access the guts...


 if I spent $ 900.00 on a fan , I wouldn't be modifying anything on it , lol . If it didn't meet the homeowners expectations , it can always go back to the store .


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## chicken steve

drspec said:


> and what do you do when the fan doesn't have pullchains and the reversing switch is built into the remote?


good one Dr

~CS~


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## drumnut08

drspec said:


> and what do you do when the fan doesn't have pullchains and the reversing switch is built into the remote?


. Nothing , since I've never installed a high dollar fan with these features , lol ! But if a customer bought a fan with those features , I wouldn't bypass anything . This fan will only work off of this remote , so if that's not ok , you need to get a different fan . Pretty simple really .


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## drumnut08

chicken steve said:


> good one Dr ~CS~


 I guess I missed the joke in that ?


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## Haxwoper

Yeah, this whole thing is something that I HATE having to explain to the customer.

The remote receiver only has a two wire input, but a 3 wire output. So you can't use the separate wall switches for fan and light while also using the remote. The customer never understands.

The other thing I hate about the fans is how the box says "5 Minute installation!!" when in reality it takes 5 minutes just to get the parts out of the box. 35 minutes later when you are finished the customer thinks you didn't know what you were doing :laughing:


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## Haxwoper

drumnut08 said:


> I guess I missed the joke in that ?


It's not just high dollar fans. A lot of basic fans don't have pull chains and you need to remote to turn on, change speed, or change direction.

I have a Home Depot Hampton Bay like that.


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## macmikeman

One more and one last time. If your fan has only two leads coming out of the socket where you attach the stem, you are going to have to use the supplied remote (assuming you are planning to use the light kit.) If it has three, you can forgo the supplied remote. 

And of course there is always the rare pull chain option..... Only the cheapest of cheap homeowner will opt for that one, I usually don't even service that type of customer. 

I have to constantly go thru this stupid explanation with futarded homeowners, I did not think that it would become necessary to have to repeat myself here.....


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## drumnut08

Haxwoper said:


> Yeah, this whole thing is something that I HATE having to explain to the customer. The remote receiver only has a two wire input, but a 3 wire output. So you can't use the separate wall switches for fan and light while also using the remote. The customer never understands. The other thing I hate about the fans is how the box says "5 Minute installation!!" when in reality it takes 5 minutes just to get the parts out of the box. 35 minutes later when you are finished the customer thinks you didn't know what you were doing :laughing:


. That 5 minute thing only refers to the garbage push on blades , I think , lol ? The remotes come with a wall bracket or you can get the ones that go right where the old switch was .


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## chicken steve

macmikeman said:


> I have to constantly go thru this stupid explanation with futarded homeowners, I did not think that it would become necessary to have to repeat myself here.....


_press #3 for FAQ's_.......:jester: ~CS~


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## chicken steve

drumnut08 said:


> .
> 
> 
> 
> That 5 minute thing only refers to the garbage push on blades , I think , lol ?
> 
> 
> 
> it takes more than 5 minutes to get it unpacked, because the packing is tougher than most lighting is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The remotes come with a wall bracket or you can get the ones that go right where the old switch was
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> .
> 
> which 3way would that be....:whistling2: ~CS~
Click to expand...


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## macmikeman

Do I start a new thread with this or slip it in here? What to doing with an architect that draws a ceiling fan controlled from two locations on the plans. 

Is murder allowed for this one exception to normal civilized structure of the state? Would I get into trouble if I drove to his office and plugged him full of holes? I sure hope that is generally agreed as the proper response, cause I spent the better part of today with remedy for just that....


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## drumnut08

macmikeman said:


> One more and one last time. If your fan has only two leads coming out of the socket where you attach the stem, you are going to have to use the supplied remote (assuming you are planning to use the light kit.) If it has three, you can forgo the supplied remote. And of course there is always the rare pull chain option..... Only the cheapest of cheap homeowner will opt for that one, I usually don't even service that type of customer. I have to constantly go thru this stupid explanation with futarded homeowners, I did not think that it would become necessary to have to repeat myself here.....


 I understand completely ! I'm not sure who you're repeating yourself for , but it's not me ?


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## drspec

macmikeman said:


> Do I start a new thread with this or slip it in here? What to doing with an architect that draws a ceiling fan controlled from two locations on the plans.
> 
> Is murder allowed for this one exception to normal civilized structure of the state? Would I get into trouble if I drove to his office and plugged him full of holes? I sure hope that is generally agreed as the proper response, cause I spent the better part of today with remedy for just that....


they do make 3 way ceiling fan controls 

and I believe you can parallel 2 of the fan control remote wall switches


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## macmikeman

Haxwoper said:


> Yeah, this whole thing is something that I HATE having to explain to the customer.
> 
> The remote receiver only has a two wire input, but a 3 wire output. So you can't use the separate wall switches for fan and light while also using the remote. The customer never understands.
> 
> The other thing I hate about the fans is how the box says "5 Minute installation!!" when in reality it takes 5 minutes just to get the parts out of the box. 35 minutes later when you are finished the customer thinks you didn't know what you were doing :laughing:


All this time I thought maybe I was the only one who ever noticed that . Nice to know I am in good company.


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## drumnut08

Haxwoper said:


> It's not just high dollar fans. A lot of basic fans don't have pull chains and you need to remote to turn on, change speed, or change direction. I have a Home Depot Hampton Bay like that.


. Exactly ! Which is why I don't understand the problem the OP has with using what came with the fan , lol ! Splice the feed through at the old switch box , out a blank plate on it and call it a day . Some people have an extreme desire to over complicate the simplest of things , for some reason ?


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## macmikeman

drspec said:


> they do make 3 way ceiling fan controls
> 
> and I believe you can parallel 2 of the fan control remote wall
> switches


Where are these sold at? How is the speed of the fan controlled from both locations? 

How? You would be allowing double resistance or double sine wave chopping which would kill that fan capacitor pretty quickly if the customer sets both fan switches to medium or low speed.


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## drspec

macmikeman said:


> Where are these sold at? How is the speed of the fan controlled from both locations?
> 
> How? You would be allowing double resistance or double sine wave chopping which would kill that fan capacitor pretty quickly if the customer sets both fan switches to medium or low speed.


do you install a 3way dimmer in both locations?

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-DVWFSQ-FH-WH-Single-Pole-3-Way-Control/dp/B000MAVHTG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1387029310&sr=8-6&keywords=3+way+ceiling+fan+switch


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## Dennis Alwon

macmikeman said:


> Where are these sold at? How is the speed of the fan controlled from both locations?
> 
> How? You would be allowing double resistance or double sine wave chopping which would kill that fan capacitor pretty quickly if the customer sets both fan switches to medium or low speed.


I have used 2 wall switches and they work just as a maestro switch would work. That is the electronic ones


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## Dennis Alwon

There is no slave unit-- you use 2 master controls as I pictured above


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## drspec

Dennis Alwon said:


> There is no slave unit-- you use 2 master controls as I pictured above


yeah that's what I was referring to above 

youre talking about these right?

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-DVWFSQ-FH-WH-Single-Pole-3-Way-Control/dp/B000MAVHTG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1387029310&sr=8-6&keywords=3+way+ceiling+fan+switch


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## leland

Just don't use the module.
one or the other. I put the fan on the remote and the light on the wall dimmer.


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## macmikeman

Dennis Alwon said:


> I have used 2 wall switches and they work just as a maestro switch would work. That is the electronic ones


Getting a second three way switch into a recently completed and painted brand new house today to satisfy a rather C**t'ish housewife who all of a sudden now is paying attention to where and how all lights are switched when she was too bored to pay attention to at pre con and during construction walk thru's ... 

Did I mention that I hate spun wool? Or ceilings with zero access and houses built onto slabs? I've tried the wireless remote three way switches before and the ones I tried were total junk. But anyway I got a cable across after much effort and cussing on my part... Hardly any wall repair to deal with after expanding two gang to three gang switch openings.... All pro job but entirely wasted time and effort if Mrs. Dumbass had of payed attention before the drywall...


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## eds

gotta love all that strapping tape that is wrap around the plastic that is wrapped around the fixture stem that is strapped into the Styrofoam, that is doubled wrapped to keep things from falling out, then stuffed into a cardboard box.


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## Dennis Alwon

drspec said:


> yeah that's what I was referring to above
> 
> youre talking about these right?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-DVWFSQ...9310&sr=8-6&keywords=3+way+ceiling+fan+switch



I have seen them but they work like a standard 3 way and a 3 way dimmer. You can only adjust the speed from one place. I was talking about the module unit I pictured above that will dim and control the speed from either location.


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## FrunkSlammer

macmikeman said:


> I've tried the wireless remote three way switches before and the ones I tried were total junk.


Use Lutron Maestro Pico wireless switch, they work perfect, customers love them.

http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/Components/PicoWirelessController/Overview.aspx


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## macmikeman

FrunkSlammer said:


> Use Lutron Maestro Pico wireless switch, they work perfect, customers love them.
> 
> http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/Components/PicoWirelessController/Overview.aspx


I gotta stop being so afraid of using the web to purchase stuff. The supply houses can get me offbeat things like the ones in your link if I want to wait and wait , but nobody stocks any cool stuff. Just repeat big sellers like plain old skylarks. I had a lot of trouble just finding some Ivory dual fan speed/ light control switches. Cases and cases of white available, they sell, ivory don't .


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## dspiffy

I want to correct some things posted earlier in this thread.

A remote receiver can be mounted in the fan's canopy, and usually wired by the installer, or mounted within the fan body somewhere (motor housing, switch housing). If it's the latter you're usually stuck to omit the remote function easily.

If it is mounted in the canopy, often times it will only control fan speed and light level. In this case, there is usually a hot for the motor, a hot for the light, a neutral, and ground. If you want to omit the remote function, simply wire the hots and neutral directly and use whatever wall switches you like. The reverse function is somewhere on the fan body.

There are some variations on this where there are multiple hots for different light circuits.

With some canopy mounted receivers, and almost all receivers internal to the fan body, the remote will also include reverse function. In this case the run capacitor is either internal to the receiver or wired through the receiver, and to operate the fan without the remote you have to hard wire the capacitor to the correct winding leads, and either omit or install a reverse switch. USUALLY if said receiver is mounted in the canopy, there will be a modular plug rather than several wire nuts.

Most of these cases are RF remotes/receivers. You can add additional transmitters, or replace them with wall mounted/hard wired transmitters, but they are often junk and prone to failure. 

Some higher end brands offer controls that use "power line communications" a la X10 (I have no idea what the technical name for this type of signal is? AC encoding?) such as Casablanca's InteliTouch control. You can get an add on kit of these where the receiver mounts in the canopy, but most of the time it will be integral to the fan housing. It's pretty easy to convert an InteliTouch fan to a single speed, constant on motor, but by they time you're in this price point they sell a cheaper non-remote option for the same fans, so it's pointless unless the customer already has a used fan. You can use multiple wall controls with these as well, depending on the manufacturer you have to buy specific controls to use more than one, and depending on the manufacturer they either wire in series, or something more brand specific.

In both cases, you can simply fish a hot through to the light kit and get control of the light separate from the remote. I also like to bypass the stupid "wattage limiters" they are requiring now.

Hunter 5 Minute fans are junk. Most Hunters are junk now, they werent a few years ago, but the current trend of "quick install" and huge ineffective (but decorative) blades has ruined the brand. Hunter bought Casablanca some years back and now they're both going downhill quickly. Emerson still makes a good fan. So does Gulf Coast. Northwest Envirofan makes the best conventional industrial/commercial fans, but I only buy the Gold and Platinum lines. I'll often recommend these for homes when the ceiling is over 9' and they dont need a light. I've never had ANYONE unhappy with them, and have gotten quite a few "thank you" gift cards based on that recommendation.

Most brands now include CFM ratings which is helpful, although last I checked there was nothing enforcing their accuracy. Any 52" fan with a CFM rating of less than ~7000 is junk.

The OP needs to post how many wires come from the fan, and their colors.


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## paulgarett

A lot of posts. Thank you. Its like a conversation

The receiver that goes in the canopy has about 8 wires, a black and white for power in, then a bunch of other colors that connect to the same color wires coming from the fan motor and light. 

I think the multiple wires are for fan speed control (it controls the number of poles that are connected to the stator winding) and the light. 

If you know how consequent pole motors work, then you would understand. How do you control the speed of a motor? 

Ans: Changing the number of poles or the frequency (hence VFDs). 

So which wires is for speed control and which wire is for the light? I am asking Hunter Fans, because it would have been nice to have detailed wiring diagram of the motor and light connections; not just, basic color connections (blue connect to blue, pink to pink, etc.) 

This is an interesting questions, because it goes into the theory of how ceiling fans work. Gosh a wiring diagram or explanation would be great.


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## dspiffy

Most ceiling fans since the 70s have used PSC motors . . . pretty sure ALL ceiling fans since the mid 80s have. The motor has 2 coils, one gets AC directly, the other gets AC through the capacitor which acts as a phase shifter (sorta). Switching which coil gets AC directly determines the rotational direction of the fan. Speeds are determined (usually) one of three ways: 1. the coil has multiple taps, 2. the capacitor value is changed 3. additional capacitors are wired in series with the motor as a whole.

8 wires sounds like the capacitor is in the receiver, AND the speeds are created via coil taps, SO in order to run the fan without the receiver you would have to wire the capacitor directly to the appropriate coil (making it a single direction fan) and connect directly to whichever coil tap is "high". It can be done, but schematics are hard to come by (as there are so many different variations even among manufacturer and model) that it is easier to open the receiver and reverse engineer.


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## paulgarett

Thanks for your response. I have always wondered what type of motor ceiling fans use. 

What does PSC stand for? 

I want to add a few things though. My understanding is most single phase motors use two windings, a start winding and a run winding. They are really split-phase motors or two phase motors. The 90 degree phase angle between the two windings create enough torque to get the motor to turn, otherwise one would have to give it a jump start by physically turning it. There are other types of single phase motors, but the heavy duty ones use split-phase or two-phase. Capacitors are either wired in series or parallel depending on what the motor is used for. 

Tapping the motor windings would simply cause it to be either wired for high voltage or low voltage. If the windings are connected in series (high voltage); in parallel (low voltage). See ohms law. 

I think you have the right idea about reversing a single phase motor, except I'll have to look that up; I think their is a little more to it. 

My understanding is in order to change the speed of a motor, you have to change the number of poles. RPM = 120 x f/# of poles. I know that is true for 3-phase motors, but exactly sure if its also for single-phase motors. It may be 90 x f/# of poles. Or, change the frequency. 

Wound rotor motors speed control can be accomplished through adjusting the current flow to the rotor. 

Interesting discussion about ceiling fan motors. All electricians install them. It would be a great idea to have a discussion about how they work. Thank you.


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## five.five-six

chicken steve said:


> imho remotes should be for TV, not essential lighting.....~CS~


IMO, fans shall have a local means of disconnect.


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## dspiffy

paulgarett said:


> Thanks for your response. I have always wondered what type of motor ceiling fans use.
> 
> What does PSC stand for?
> 
> I want to add a few things though. My understanding is most single phase motors use two windings, a start winding and a run winding. They are really split-phase motors or two phase motors. The 90 degree phase angle between the two windings create enough torque to get the motor to turn, otherwise one would have to give it a jump start by physically turning it. There are other types of single phase motors, but the heavy duty ones use split-phase or two-phase. Capacitors are either wired in series or parallel depending on what the motor is used for.
> 
> Tapping the motor windings would simply cause it to be either wired for high voltage or low voltage. If the windings are connected in series (high voltage); in parallel (low voltage). See ohms law.
> 
> I think you have the right idea about reversing a single phase motor, except I'll have to look that up; I think their is a little more to it.
> 
> My understanding is in order to change the speed of a motor, you have to change the number of poles. RPM = 120 x f/# of poles. I know that is true for 3-phase motors, but exactly sure if its also for single-phase motors. It may be 90 x f/# of poles. Or, change the frequency.
> 
> Wound rotor motors speed control can be accomplished through adjusting the current flow to the rotor.
> 
> Interesting discussion about ceiling fan motors. All electricians install them. It would be a great idea to have a discussion about how they work. Thank you.


PSC motor = permanent split capacitor motor.

Most cheap fans have a 16 pole motor, most higher quality fans have an 18 pole motor. Some older fans had 28 pole motors, these were shaded pole rather than PSC.


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## dspiffy

paulgarett said:


> .


This might help you:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor#Permanent-split_capacitor_motor


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## paulgarett

Thank you. I have no looked at the link yet but I will.
I did some research and you were right about multiple taps in the run winding, controlling the speed of the single-phase motor. 

I assume the multiple wires from the receiver that goes in the canopy are for the multiple speed taps and the light. If this is the case, is it possible to wire it for a fan/speed control switch, not the remote? 

Thank you.


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## dspiffy

Please re-read my previous posts, I've already explained this in detail.

I am assuming the remote has a 'reverse' function?


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## TOOL_5150

paulgarett said:


> I am installing a Hunter Model 3 ceiling fan. It came with a remote control. There are quite a few wires that connect to the module inside the canopy.
> 
> I currently have a fan/speed and light combo switch installed that I want to use for this fan. It seems this fan is designed to only used the remote, with a simple disconnect switch; not a fan/speed light combo.
> 
> It their a way to wire this fan using the fan/speed light combo switch rather than the remote?
> 
> Has anybody had this problem before and have any recommendations?
> 
> Thank you.


I had a customer that bought 2 fans like this, then decided that they want them both controlled by a wall switch. Its easy to do: find the module in the fan canopy, see the 3 wires going into the fan - those are your neutral, fan and light conductors. you can trace the wires to either the light or fan by pulling on them gently. cut the module out, and hard wire as described.


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## Haxwoper

TOOL_5150 said:


> I had a customer that bought 2 fans like this, then decided that they want them both controlled by a wall switch. Its easy to do: find the module in the fan canopy, see the 3 wires going into the fan - those are your neutral, fan and light conductors. you can trace the wires to either the light or fan by pulling on them gently. cut the module out, and hard wire as described.


How do you change direction after you cut the module out?


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## TOOL_5150

Haxwoper said:


> How do you change direction after you cut the module out?


on this fan, it was still a manual switch, so that was left in the circuit.


besides this is california, no one uses, or even knows what that switch does as well as when and why to change the direction of the fan.


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## paulgarett

More complicated than that. The module has about 8 wires. These wires are for the speed control and the light. Not 3 wires. That would be simple. Come on.

Read previous posts.


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## paulgarett

ok thanks. I will have to explore that. I assume I will have to open the receiver to find out which wire is in series with the capacitor; then somehow determine which wire is for the high speed. I guess whichever wire has the least resistance would be the coil for high speed. Does that sound correct?
Thank you.


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## paulgarett

I re-read your posts. Thank you. Again, to find the high speed coil, check for resistance. The least resistance would be the high speed coil, right? Find out which wire is in series with the capacitor; not sure if capacitor is in motor or receiver. I want to bypass the receiver completely, so the capacitor would have to be in the motor for it work, right?


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## dspiffy

TOOL_5150 said:


> I had a customer that bought 2 fans like this, then decided that they want them both controlled by a wall switch. Its easy to do: find the module in the fan canopy, see the 3 wires going into the fan - those are your neutral, fan and light conductors. you can trace the wires to either the light or fan by pulling on them gently. cut the module out, and hard wire as described.





Haxwoper said:


> How do you change direction after you cut the module out?





TOOL_5150 said:


> on this fan, it was still a manual switch, so that was left in the circuit.
> 
> 
> besides this is california, no one uses, or even knows what that switch does as well as when and why to change the direction of the fan.


Really, the reverse function on fans is a sales gimmick and is rarely useful. I'd be fine with all my fans hard wired to downdraft.

As he has already clarified, the OP has way more than 3 wires. In these cases, the receiver is more than just a speed control. I went into more detail earlier in the thread.


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## dspiffy

paulgarett said:


> ok thanks. I will have to explore that. I assume I will have to open the receiver to find out which wire is in series with the capacitor; then somehow determine which wire is for the high speed. I guess whichever wire has the least resistance would be the coil for high speed. Does that sound correct?
> Thank you.





paulgarett said:


> I re-read your posts. Thank you. Again, to find the high speed coil, check for resistance. The least resistance would be the high speed coil, right? Find out which wire is in series with the capacitor; not sure if capacitor is in motor or receiver. I want to bypass the receiver completely, so the capacitor would have to be in the motor for it work, right?


You havent answered my question about whether or not the remote has a reverse function.

It's usually not as simple as determining which wire has the least resistance. The motor has 2 coils, with multiple taps, and multiple things have to be connected in order for it to function.

As I said earlier in the thread, the easiest solution is to open the receiver and reverse engineer. There is usually a SP3T for speed and a DPDT for direction. USUALLY. It can get way more complicated.


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## paulgarett

I am not sure if the remote has a reverse function. I am not at the job now and will not go back until later in the week. 

But, gosh, seems like a lot of extra work to make this fan work. Good reason to not let the customer pick out ceiling fans. 

It would be really interesting to have the wiring diagram of this motor. I am attempting to contact Hunter Fans; they don't answer; put me on hold forever. 

If I do get a hold of them, they probably will not know. 

Lighting companies, fan companies, seem to get away with a lot. The brackets for hanging light fixtures suck. They always have to be retrofitted to work. Ceiling fan companies don't have the specs of the motor; the most important part of the fixture. Why!


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## paulgarett

If I break open the receiver and damage something, then I would be liable to replace the fan; so probably not a good idea. Thanks for all the info though. Good stuff.


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## macmikeman

On Planet macmikeman, that fan went into the dumpster like 5 days ago, and the property owners received the "your fan is broken, buy another one" you cheap bastards speech.


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## paulgarett

Funny.


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## TOOL_5150

this thread was a success.


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## dspiffy

macmikeman said:


> On Planet macmikeman, that fan went into the dumpster like 5 days ago, and the property owners received the "your fan is broken, buy another one" you cheap bastards speech.


While not at all true in this case, and not true of most remote fans . . . ceiling fans made in America and/or before the 1990s are far better quality than almost everything made today, and are WELL WORTH a couple hours troubleshooting or repair.


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## macmikeman

dspiffy said:


> While not at all true in this case, and not true of most remote fans . . . ceiling fans made in America and/or before the 1990s are far better quality than almost everything made today, and are WELL WORTH a couple hours troubleshooting or repair.


Ah but you have not been to Planet macmikeman, I checked the Filemaker database of visitors. On planet macmikeman we don't give a rip about re-using broken old fans when in fact we are able to make a killing on assembly and hanging new ones. This is almost 2014, an old fan made before 1990 is rusty and looks like hell. And they got dust all over em. The blades get warped and the remote controls get broken, lost, and generally unusable after such a long life of battling salt filled air. Homeowners are thrilled to see a lovely brand new modern looking ceiling fan in place of the old rusty one they had. They appear very eager in fact to hand me the $400 after I finish. 

20-25 ft waves coming by Friday. Get ready.


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## chicken steve

I can imagine salt air being detrimental Mac ~CS~


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## macmikeman

Very detrimental Steve, unless you are in the electrical meter/main socket replacement business in which case it becomes your boon. Windward side is like mining bitcoin...


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