# Plug On Neutral Panelboards



## joesparky28 (Mar 12, 2015)

I am considering installing a new panel board with the plug on neutral feature. Where the neutral bar extends all the way down the panel board and the breaker just plugs onto the neutral bus bar. Eaton and Square D each make one. I am looking for your input on if they speed up installation, the pros or cons, and if you prefer square D to Eaton.


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## J F Go (Mar 1, 2014)

That's the only style I'll install. I've done a bunch of those with the Homeline Sq. D and not only does it speed things up but it sure makes for a clean install too.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I switched to mostly Square D Homeline panels about 6 months ago and I think they have all been Plug-On Neutral panels. The price is the same so it's a no-brainer. 

I don't actually install AFCI breakers so I don't know about that part, but I heard good things. Having the full length neutral bar in a cheap panel is awesome.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

Yes it speeds installation but be sure to leave enough slack when turning into the breaker with the phase and neut wires. If you do need to work on the breaker later it is easier to pull the breaker out to get to the terminals. Also they are long and really cut into your gutter space. 


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I like the look of this:

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/cata...ibution-controls-systems/br-load-centers.html

I don't mind Homeline but the AFCI breakers are huge.


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## joesparky28 (Mar 12, 2015)

*Nice Eaton Panels*

I like the look and features of the Eaton panels over the Square D.


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## Willie B (Jan 31, 2020)

I've used exclusively Square D panels more than 50 years. I prefer QO, but they add a lot of cost. Since the Homeline series meet all the same standards, I've been using them 20 years. I see failures at the buss bar grabbers often on similar panels: GE, Siemens, Eaton, Murray, Bryant, Challenger, Cutler Hammer BR series. I don't see this problem in Homeline. 

I believe Homeline have tin plated copper buss. Copper is a better conductor than aluminum, and despite aluminum's amazing ability to conduct heat away, (lowering temperature), copper does even better. Aluminum oxidizes instantly on contact with air. Copper more slowly, and the tin plating serves as an anode, preventing copper from oxidizing.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Willie B said:


> I've used exclusively Square D panels more than 50 years. I prefer QO, but they add a lot of cost. Since the Homeline series meet all the same standards, I've been using them 20 years. I see failures at the buss bar grabbers often on similar panels: GE, Siemens, Eaton, Murray, Bryant, Challenger, Cutler Hammer BR series. I don't see this problem in Homeline.
> 
> I believe Homeline have tin plated copper buss. Copper is a better conductor than aluminum, and despite aluminum's amazing ability to conduct heat away, (lowering temperature), copper does even better. Aluminum oxidizes instantly on contact with air. Copper more slowly, and the tin plating serves as an anode, preventing copper from oxidizing.


Copper is only a better conductor than aluminum when comparing the same exact size, which we never do. Because the material that we work with such as wire and bussing is sized for the ampacity, copper has nominally the same level of conductance as aluminum.

The typical sizes of conductors for a 200A resi service is 4/0 AL or 2/0 Cu. The aluminum is a better conductor than the copper.


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## Willie B (Jan 31, 2020)

Agreed. Copper is a better conductor of heat moving the concentration of BTUs away from the commonly high resistance point where circuit breaker meets buss. In the years before Homeline, The interchangeable brands had failures, (overheating) at the connection where breaker grips buss many times more frequently than QO or Cutler Hammer CH. Might not be relevant any more. Maybe everybody has found a way to fix a frequent problem. I like copper buss bars. 

It might not be a proper use of the product, but I use Noalox on most connections over 20 amps regardless of the metal. I've had excellent results.


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

Willie B said:


> Agreed. Copper is a better conductor of heat moving the concentration of BTUs away from the commonly high resistance point where circuit breaker meets buss. In the years before Homeline, The interchangeable brands had failures, (overheating) at the connection where breaker grips buss many times more frequently than QO or Cutler Hammer CH. Might not be relevant any more. Maybe everybody has found a way to fix a frequent problem. I like copper buss bars.
> 
> It might not be a proper use of the product, but I use Noalox on most connections over 20 amps regardless of the metal. I've had excellent results.


Anything over 20A?? I could see it on bigger wire perhaps, but #10 - #6? I'm guessing the real reason you have good results is simply that you take the time to make good connections. I doubt the Noalox has a lot to do with it.

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## Willie B (Jan 31, 2020)

You are likely correct. From my perspective, bad terminations are about 70% of what we, as electricians worry about. If my termination is clean, tight, and protected from all the poltergeists that cause failure, I'm almost always good. Where there is still failure, oxidation is involved. If I can prevent oxidation, I can improve my success rate. 

If you see my info when I recently joined this forum, I left out my most important goal: To never unintentionally take a life, or cause a fire. 

I've spent more time than most electricians have lived thinking about the how to of that goal. I'll willingly waste a bit of Noalox if I believe it changes the risk factors. 

Never seen a new termination result in fire. Years later, through heat, oxidation, or a combination, the resistance/current equation provides the necessary heat. If fuel & oxygen are provided, fire results.

Fact is; almost all fires there were warning signs ignored preceding the fire.


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