# Split bolt , polaris or crimp



## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

If the wires are for small motors, I always used wire nuts.
Back in my time there were no Polaris so we used split bolts or lugs with nut and bolt.

If I was installing a big motor today, it would be with polaris or similar type of method.
Lugs with nuts and bolts are very good to.

I guess thats what you mean by "crip"


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

John Valdes said:


> If the wires are for small motors, I always used wire nuts.
> Back in my time there were no Polaris so we used split bolts or lugs with nut and bolt.
> 
> If I was installing a big motor today, it would be with polaris or similar type of method.
> ...


Crimp...


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

I have never liked split bolts in a motor. 

Almost all of the motor connections we make are made with crimp lugs and screws and nuts. The smaller motors are insulated using rubber and plastic tape. Often on 7.5hp and up we will use a Raychem "GelCaps". You still use the crimps and the bolts and nuts, but no tape. You just slide the GelCap over the connection and clip the retainer closed. They are completely waterproof and re-enterable.


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

As a general rule, I'll use wirenuts up to an Ideal red. If it takes a bigger wirenut than that, I try and use insulated taps.


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

We're all different; I'll use wirenuts on anything that's fed by #6 and smaller. I can't recall even one failure in all the years I've worked with motors. 

Larger than #6, these days I usually use the Polaris type. Given the choice though, I'll use crimps. I always make the first wrap of tape with the sticky side out, then 130C then either 33 or 88. 

This way when the splice needs to be taken apart, simply slit it lengthwise with a knife and it'll fold open. If you put the sticky side in (like normal), it'll be much harder to get the tape off. 

I've seen far more split-bolts burn up that anything else. Especially if DLO cable is involved.


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

micromind said:


> I've seen far more split-bolts burn up that anything else. Especially if DLO cable is involved.


Are split bolts listed for use with fine strand cable?


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Wire nuts on small stuff then polaris blacks or greys. Sometimes a PDB if we have to put a larger jbox on. 

I only screw with crimps and tape in emergencies when the right polaris isn't available right away.


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

The only thing I use a split bolt for anymore is to get out of a serious jam. 

Wire nuts. Up to #6

Polaris after that. 

Never bolt lugged a motor. Would if it was huge.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

micromind said:


> ... Given the choice though, I'll use crimps. I always make the first wrap of tape with the sticky side out, then 130C then either 33 or 88.
> 
> This way when the splice needs to be taken apart, simply slit it lengthwise with a knife and it'll fold open. If you put the sticky side in (like normal), it'll be much harder to get the tape off. ...


What are you using for the first wrap? I just use the 130C and the 33. The instructions for the 130C call for it to be wrapped sticky side out, and unless you have made a poor connection that creates a lot of heat, it comes off just like you suggest.


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> What are you using for the first wrap? I just use the 130C and the 33. The instructions for the 130C call for it to be wrapped sticky side out, and unless you have made a poor connection that creates a lot of heat, it comes off just like you suggest.


I've never heard of using 130C sticky side out.....learn something new every day!!

I usually use some sort of cheap stuff, like 1700. 

Makes sense though, and it'd likely seal better than 1700.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

This one is a polaris lug AND a Crip :whistling2:


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## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

I always used split bolts on motors that shook a lot. I even used split bolts on parallel 300's to a 500 hp, as long as you use the kambrik,rubber, and electrical tape thing, that split bolts as good as a cad weld.


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## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

erics37 said:


> This one is a polaris lug AND a Crip :whistling2:


It's even blue.


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## walkerj (May 13, 2007)

What the hell good does this do for a motor?


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

Up to #8's I use marrettes...#6 and larger I use crimp lugs and boots.. A couple wraps of 88 on first then the boot.. Makes changes alot easier...


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

Chrisibew440 said:


> It's even blue.


Boy, nothing gets by you


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## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

erics37 said:


> Boy, nothing gets by you


Imagine all the other garbage I pay attention to.


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

Nice. Thanks. These are 480 v 10 hp. We first used polaris it4 4-14 awg . No 10 line side from mcc. The motor supplier says split bolt or nothing. 

learning to learn


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

If I could spell , spell check might help.. yes sir I meant crimp

learning to learn


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

walkerj said:


> What the hell good does this do for a motor?


Gives troubleshooting a whole new meaning.


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

I generally always use crimp lugs, bolts and tape on motor terminations. ( I have been bashed on here before for this opinion.) Polaris type connections would be my second choice. Split bolts are the worst possible motor termination - difficult to properly tighten, prone to loosening and difficult to tape. 

In years past, wirenuts were NEVER allowed as motor a termination method. The reasoning was that the twisting/untwisting of the conductors would damage the wire and cause the need to cut the wire shorter on each motor replacement. I have found many failed wirenut terminations on #8 and larger on motors.

Taping connections: If there are no job specific specs, I always back wrap 33 (sticky side out) for the first pass, then two passes of friction tape, and then a pass of 33. The friction tape is cheap and very effective in preventing "punch through" of the termination.


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## JRaef (Mar 23, 2009)

Once I got into industrial work, I discovered that using wire nuts on motor connections was a terminal offense.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

JRaef said:


> Once I got into industrial work, I discovered that using wire nuts on motor connections was a terminal offense.


 _Boooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!

:laughing: _


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

JRaef said:


> Once I got into industrial work, I discovered that using wire nuts on motor connections was a terminal offense.


Even in lower hp motors? Like 40 hp and lower?


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

On most industrial jobs, with any specs, wirenuts are never allowed on any motor termination. Wirenuts are only used on lighting and 120 volt receptacles.


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

varmit said:


> On most industrial jobs, with any specs, wirenuts are never allowed on any motor termination. Wirenuts are only used on lighting and 120 volt receptacles.


Haha


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

varmit said:


> On most industrial jobs, with any specs, wirenuts are never allowed on any motor termination. Wirenuts are only used on lighting and 120 volt receptacles.


On 120 volt 1/4 hp exhaust fans you'd use a crimp lug? And fit the wires fit?

Control devices also use wire nuts.. But that is a different can of worms...


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

What im hearing is that all 3 can work if properly installed. I l like to avoid what I prefer on things like this. Motors can get expensive..thanks for all the input im gonna save this thread. Will heat play a part in any of these methods . With normal operating temp and 33/88/33 3m

learning to learn


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Even quicker then wire nuts, wago lever nuts, snap the lever down and done.


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## walkerj (May 13, 2007)

Jlarson said:


> Even quicker then wire nuts, wago lever nuts, snap the lever down and done.


Mother of god


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## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

glen1971 said:


> On 120 volt 1/4 hp exhaust fans you'd use a crimp lug? And fit the wires fit?
> 
> Control devices also use wire nuts.. But that is a different can of worms...


I don't believe that I have ever dealt with a 1/4 HP exhaust fan on a large industrial project. If the small motor was 120 volt, most of these make up with stacons anyway. I have worked on projects where wirenuts were not allowed to be used for any purpose other than temporary. 

I have no objection to wirenut usage, but there are better options for some applications.

One of the more dumb specs, that I have dealt with was a requirement to rough in an metal stud office area, of a power plant, with RMC. I think that the conduit held the walls in place.(haha)


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## tates1882 (Sep 3, 2010)

Crimps and bolts anything 75hp or above, Polaris lugs if the motor is replaced frequently. Split bolts for motors 25-75hp, wire nuts with a couple wraps of tape in the direction of the twist for smaller then 20hp.


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

Tates882 this is how my boss said he does it when its up to him. In my /our situation it was spec split bolt. . 

learning to learn


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> Even quicker then wire nuts, wago lever nuts, snap the lever down and done.


I saw a box of those at Platt recently and was seriously thinking about giving 'em a shot. Maybe I will now.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

erics37 said:


> I saw a box of those at Platt recently and was seriously thinking about giving 'em a shot. Maybe I will now.


I made the mistake of getting some to try and now we have to buy them in gallon freezer bag quantity. :laughing:


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

How much are they 

learning to learn


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I think the individual list price on the 2 ports is like 22 cents but when you buy from a supplier in bulk there's price breaks. They come in 3 and 5 port too.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

Platt lists them at 19 cents each (my price) for the 2-port. 24 cents for the 3-port and 39 cents for the 5-port.

I think I'm gonna get a jug of 3-port ones if I can remember.


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

Are they up to #10 awg. They look like a good idea. Do they require a wrap of tape if for a motor connection. 

learning to learn


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

how did you get into the car wash blower business


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

Its a dryer motor

learning to learn


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

Do u have a real question

learning to learn


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

zen said:


> Do u have a real question
> 
> learning to learn


how does your company generate this type of work?


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

I dont know how we actually get these type of jobs. My boss knows motor controls and was expanding. The reason for my post is that we used it4 polaris taps but co that provided the motors. I wanted to know if one is as good as the other as long as done right. Why change from polaris to splir bolt

learning to learn


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

99% of motors I do are with split bolts.
I've never seen one of mine fail, over heat or get glued together because of a bad wrap. 

They tell us that Polaris connectors cost to much. 
I am still trying to count to $17 trillion and until I get there, I don't ask about costs. 

Depending on were it is I always use a wrap of 33 then ether putty or rubber and then top it with 33. 

Fart fans get a wirenut.


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

I believe we spent 10 x more on the polaris than split bolt. The labor could make them closer to the same price when uts all said and done. 

learning to learn


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

We generally only use split bolts. The company I work for does a lot of pump servicing and about 70% of burnt up motors are bad connections from Polaris connectors loosening up and causing a bad connection. Theory is the dissimilar metals heating and cooling at different rates combined with harmonics from these large pumps. Once we change out the connectors from Polaris to split bolts the random motor issues at facilities almost disappear.

Split bolt get tightened with two wrenches, friction tape, splicing tape, and then no. 33. Never had a motor burn up with burnt leads with a split bolt. See burnt and overheated leads all the time with Polaris.


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## Nuzzie (Jan 11, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> Crimp...


Ahh, the old cut a few strands off cause i couldn't get them in the lug (even with a flared lug? wth?). Hack picture.


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## Almost always lurkin (Jul 30, 2014)

zen said:


> Are they up to #10 awg. They look like a good idea. Do they require a wrap of tape if for a motor connection.
> 
> learning to learn


The lever-snap models, the 222- series, only go up to 12 gauge.


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## zen (Jun 15, 2009)

Then those would be good for the inner connection taps on the motor

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