# Pulling in POA



## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Klein come-along.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

The PoCo should really do that.

A come-along will work. Depending on how it's setup, I have thrown a rope over the roof and had a helper pull it from the other side of the house. I also had a helper inside of a nearby window pulling the line in.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

HackWork said:


> The PoCo should really do that.
> 
> 
> 
> A come-along will work. Depending on how it's setup, I have thrown a rope over the roof and had a helper pull it from the other side of the house. I also had a helper inside of a nearby window pulling the line in.




Ya that's what I told the client , but he called poco back and they said nope call electrician 


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Here, an electrician has to install the POA. But once that is done you can have the PoCo install the line.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

HackWork said:


> Here, an electrician has to install the POA. But once that is done you can have the PoCo install the line.




Everything is still up in the air but the original POA is about 2' from the house siding 


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

HackWork said:


> The PoCo should really do that.
> 
> A come-along will work. Depending on how it's setup, I have thrown a rope over the roof and had a helper pull it from the other side of the house. I also had a helper inside of a nearby window pulling the line in.


Thats what we did....used a rope
Installed a new POA and used existing loop on wires to reattach
You should be ok with rope to pull it the 2ft 


Texting and Driving


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

I used the rope cumalong type rachet cable to pull the service drop.

Before you do that ., make sure the new POA attachment do hit a good wood frameing to hold it strong.

especially on the long runs you will need to make sure they hold it up good.

make sure you hit the wooden frameing stud that useally the best spot to hit and do NOT reattached the POA at the old location at all due the old location can be comprised already.

and you may have to get a new slider cable grip too so be aware of it.


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

We use a block and tackle kit or a come-a-long depending on how hard the pull is. Combine that with a Klein wire grip to grab the messenger and your set.

I have used mule tape to half hitch around the aerial cable before in a pinch.


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## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

I did a really long run from the pole one time. I was solo so the property owner got on the roof of a detached garage and pushed up with a broom to take some weight off while I attached it to the house!


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

matt1124 said:


> I did a really long run from the pole one time. I was solo so the property owner got on the roof of a detached garage and pushed up with a broom to take some weight off while I attached it to the house!


Last one I did was 135' of 4/0 aerial quad by myself. It was in the boonies and did the pole side from spikes and the building side from a ladder. It was a mofo. Really glad we have a working bucket truck again! Pulling that sucker tight while trying to not tip my extension ladder over backwards and tightening down the clamp on the messenger was a real gas. :Laughing:


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

Klein block and tackle, or a Howe wire tool and a haven grip on the messenger. If you can't get a good grip on the messenger, do like Cow said and use a couple of half hitches around the drop.

This way once you have it up where you need your hands are free to attach it. Don't pull it up too tight either, you want a little sag to it.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Its actually not bad I have the chimney I can wrap around and pull the cable in with a small come-along 

I picked up a messenger support anyways looks like im missing something , how does the messenger wire attach to this thing ?




















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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

That's a wedge clamp. That end piece slides down. Pull it up towards the loop and then insert the messenger cable between it and the main body.

That line is barely pulling in the weatherhead, it's probably not that heavy. You may be able to pull it by hand from the ladder, give that a try before going crazy with gizmos and contraptions.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That's a wedge clamp. That end piece slides down. Pull it up towards the loop and then insert the messenger cable between it and the main body.


Very simple to use as Hackwork describe.,

And when you get done with wedge clamp and loosen up the cumalong or racheting strap the wedge will get tighten down pretty good by itself.

Make sure the wedge clamp is on the ACSR cable side not on the SE cable side. 

as I mention before make sure the POA corncob is secured good before you put the tension on that.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

It's done , why does all this literature in utility books talk about closed loop POA's and through bolts through the joist with a nut and washer


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

WronGun said:


> It's done , why does all this literature in utility books talk about closed loop POA's and through bolts through the joist with a nut and washer
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There is a main reason why thru bolts go thru the joist due in winter time or even other bad weather the ice can pull the drop down pretty fast with weight of ice.

that one issue I always make sure I put the POA right on the good framing piece of building to hold it. ( this part is very true with very long drops all it take a good windy day to rip it out )


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## Jack Legg (Mar 12, 2014)

We have to use these clevis type. Thru bolted into the attic.

Our supply house has 2 sizes one for 100 amp and a larger one for 200 amp services








lag type are not approved anymore here


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

PSE&G supplies the POAs here. All they are is a galvanized metal threaded hook.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Jack Legg said:


> We have to use these clevis type. Thru bolted into the attic.
> 
> Our supply house has 2 sizes one for 100 amp and a larger one for 200 amp services
> View attachment 112562
> ...




Wow , seems like it could be a major project getting into some areas of the attic ! 


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

WronGun said:


> Wow , seems like it could be a major project getting into some areas of the attic !
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


poco used to furnish us toggle, don't know if they still do


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

I'm trying to figure out how I would've done this if I wasn't about to throw a tow strap around the chimney ?




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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

WronGun said:


> It's done , *why does all this literature in utility books talk about closed loop POA's and through bolts through the joist with a nut and washer*
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Because that is a very strong method of attachment.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

WronGun said:


> I'm trying to figure out how I would've done this if I wasn't about to throw a tow strap around the chimney ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A heavy rope tossed over the roof of the house to a tree in the back of the house to attach a come along to.


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## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

Going_Commando said:


> Last one I did was 135' of 4/0 aerial quad by myself. It was in the boonies and did the pole side from spikes and the building side from a ladder. It was a mofo. Really glad we have a working bucket truck again! Pulling that sucker tight while trying to not tip my extension ladder over backwards and tightening down the clamp on the messenger was a real gas. :Laughing:


Yuck! Lucky for me POCO attaches to just about anything we slap on the house around here. The long one was a *cough* unpermitted job *cough* in a town I wasn't registered in.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Going_Commando said:


> Last one I did was 135' of 4/0 aerial quad by myself. It was in the boonies and did the pole side from spikes and the building side from a ladder. It was a mofo. Really glad we have a working bucket truck again! Pulling that sucker tight while trying to not tip my extension ladder over backwards and tightening down the clamp on the messenger was a real gas. :Laughing:




I wouldn't even attempt that , this one was about 30" away from the house and the last 6" started to get very very heavy... I had to make adjustments on the come-along a number of times to get the pull angle correct... I ended up pulling the rope through the POA with 3 half hitches further down the line 


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

I understand that the POA is an electricians job, but connecting the overhead wires should be the utilities job.
The overhead wires can be damaged while the electrician tries to pull them without the proper tools. The utility has the tools and the training.
Around here we are not allowed to touch their wires.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

WronGun said:


> I'm trying to figure out how I would've done this if I wasn't about to throw a tow strap around the chimney ?


The PoCo will attach the come-along to the POA, half hitch the line a few feet down, and pull it in.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Jack Legg said:


> We have to use these clevis type. Thru bolted into the attic.
> 
> Our supply house has 2 sizes one for 100 amp and a larger one for 200 amp services
> View attachment 112562
> ...


That is just stupid.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I have always just ran a rope thru the POA and pulled it in that way. Never needed a come a long yet. I do have one of those Klein clamps though.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> I have always just ran a rope thru the POA and pulled it in that way. Never needed a come a long yet. I do have one of those Klein clamps though.


That's the best way to do it when you have a second person on the ground pulling the rope. 

For someone working alone, the come-along makes it much easier and safer.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That's the best way to do it when you have a second person on the ground pulling the rope.
> 
> For someone working alone, the come-along makes it much easier and safer.


That is true. I normally just take a piece of 12-2 and use that to extend it and run my wires long for the make up. Pulling it tight and connections are the POCO's job.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

eddy current said:


> I understand that the POA is an electricians job, but connecting the overhead wires should be the utilities job.
> The overhead wires can be damaged while the electrician tries to pull them without the proper tools. The utility has the tools and the training.
> Around here we are not allowed to touch their wires.


I agree with that for the most part.

But let's be honest, that part of linework really isn't rocket surgery or brain science.

It's basically grunt work.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> That is just stupid.


Not when you have seen the lag type pull out a thousand times.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Only when they don't know enough to hit the stud.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I do it by feel. If the hook feels solid enough, I am done. I don't find a stud because there is never one where I need it.

I have never had one of my hooks pulled out by anything but a large branch that would be big enough to pull the sheathing right off the wall if it was through bolted.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Put a mast thru the roof . No more worrying about pull out.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I agree with that for the most part.
> 
> But let's be honest, that part of linework really isn't rocket surgery or brain science.
> 
> It's basically grunt work.


The main point is those wires usually belong to the utility. What happens if you damage them? I bet they send you the bill !!


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## MCasey (Dec 7, 2016)

HackWork said:


> I do it by feel. If the hook feels solid enough, I am done. I don't find a stud because there is never one where I need it.
> 
> I have never had one of my hooks pulled out by anything but a large branch that would be big enough to pull the sheathing right off the wall if it was through bolted.


We typically install a short piece of 2x framing material acrooss studs and run the bolt through that, basic sheathinng does not have much strength to hold a bolt.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MCasey said:


> We typically install a short piece of 2x framing material acrooss studs and run the bolt through that, basic sheathinng does not have much strength to hold a bolt.


Most POA's on houses here don't have open access behind them.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Most POA's on houses here don't have open access behind them.


That is the main thing why I could not get into due some were really close up good and nothing can get into.

the overhang pieces are worst that I never want to put a POA on that location.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

eddy current said:


> The main point is those wires usually belong to the utility. What happens if you damage them? I bet they send you the bill !!


You have a point, you'd have to look at them first and see if the insulation is dried out among other things.


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## MCasey (Dec 7, 2016)

HackWork said:


> Most POA's on houses here don't have open access behind them.


Houses are not my field I should have specified.


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## mitch65 (Mar 26, 2015)

Here we don't touch the Utility's triplex. We install the POA and run the wire to it from the meter base, they run the service wire and do the connection on overhead services.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

mitch65 said:


> Here we don't touch the Utility's triplex. We install the POA and run the wire to it from the meter base, they run the service wire and do the connection on overhead services.


The only time we do it is with some utilities when we are changing to a mast or something. We have some customers that own their own overhead, so there's that too. The Klein snatch block and cable grips works tit.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

WronGun said:


> I wouldn't even attempt that , this one was about 30" away from the house and the last 6" started to get very very heavy... I had to make adjustments on the come-along a number of times to get the pull angle correct... I ended up pulling the rope through the POA with 3 half hitches further down the line
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It wasn't a whole lot of fun. Had to set the wedge on the messenger and POA a few times a reset the grip and snatch block to pull some more. It was a bolted type grip, so it was easier to move than a wedge-style. The climbing was fun though. I don't get to do it all that often, so when I do it is a ball buster, but still fun.

I even spliced the 4/0 quad on both sides with a burndy crimper and H-taps. I bet Hax wishes he could do that.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> I even spliced the 4/0 quad on both sides with a burndy crimper and H-taps. I bet Hax wishes he could do that.


Nope, that is silly using a huge bolt cutter style crimper that needs both hands while on an extension ladder dealing with energized lines. 

A set-screw style reducer and a small impact gun are much better.


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## mitch65 (Mar 26, 2015)

Going_Commando said:


> The only time we do it is with some utilities when we are changing to a mast or something. We have some customers that own their own overhead, so there's that too. The Klein snatch block and cable grips works tit.


Yeah, we deal with customer owned as well. just not POCO stuff. We have a bucket truck for most situations, where it can't be used snatch block and second pair of hands comes in handy. it'd almost be nice to have a figure 8 or ascender rig so you could pull it tight and not lose what you pulled if you are by yourself.


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