# how to pound ground rodS



## John M. (Oct 29, 2016)

This may be a stupid question, but how is the best way to pound ground rods in. hammers can be very slow. What do you find that works good?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Apprentice.
Helper.
Larger rotary or demo hammer.
Sledge hammer.


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## samgregger (Jan 23, 2013)

Fence post driver or Hilti


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

My SDS has a ground rod adapter, but have hardly ever used it. We either use ground plates now or where possible tie on to the water main.

However the best tool to use is the apprentice...

Cheers

John


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

Careful using a rotary hammer, you can booger up the NUT that holds the Chuck in place on some of them. If you go that route use the bit that's made for it or make one from an old bit.

If your not gonna pay for that then get a drilling hammer. (Most folks call it a hand held sledge or something similar)

Some landscapes may require a hole be bored. Then the GR inserted and filled with flowable fill. 

Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

Guess* if *the specs call for rod(s) you have no choice, but I'll 
never pound a gnd rod again.
Dig a 600mm hole. Drop in the plate. Done. 
P&L


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Navyguy said:


> My SDS has a ground rod adapter, but have hardly ever used it. We either use ground plates now or where possible tie on to the water main.
> 
> However the best tool to use is the apprentice...
> 
> ...


We have to tie into the water main as well as a ufer ground on a new house or drive 2 ground rods on an existing house when upgrading the service.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

HackWork said:


> We have to tie into the water main as well as a ufer ground on a new house or drive 2 ground rods on an existing house when upgrading the service.


Not sure if we are saying the same thing (not sure what a UFER is)... ground rod plate or 2 x 10' ground rods or attach to copper water line ahead of water meter.

All three methods need to be bonded to the cold water line (after the water meter), the gas line, cast sewer lines and in some cases metal duct work (is there is a flexible collar at the furnace).

Cheers

John


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Demo hammer with a rod adapter is easiest.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

HackWork said:


> Apprentice.
> Helper.
> Larger rotary or demo hammer.
> Sledge hammer.


I found the guys using an 18 volt Milwaukee SDS drill with a deep socket.
It was pushing them in pretty.
The guys were as proud a two peckered billy goat.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> We have to tie into the water main as well as a ufer ground on a new house or drive 2 ground rods on an existing house when upgrading the service.


Two ground rods for a service change? Crazy. We just confirm #6 to the water main. For a new house, I either dig a hole in the basement for the ground plate or throw it in the trench.


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

Navyguy said:


> Not sure if we are saying the same thing (not sure what a UFER is)... ground rod plate or 2 x 10' ground rods or attach to copper water line ahead of water meter.
> 
> All three methods need to be bonded to the cold water line (after the water meter), the gas line, cast sewer lines and in some cases metal duct work (is there is a flexible collar at the furnace).
> 
> ...


It's Ufer, not ufer or UFER, Herbert G. Ufer.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Navyguy said:


> Not sure if we are saying the same thing (not sure what a UFER is)... ground rod plate or 2 x 10' ground rods or attach to copper water line ahead of water meter.
> 
> All three methods need to be bonded to the cold water line (after the water meter), the gas line, cast sewer lines and in some cases metal duct work (is there is a flexible collar at the furnace).
> 
> ...


We have to run a GEC to the metal water line. We also need a suplimental grounding electrode. In a new house you have to use a concrete encased electrode (20' of rebar inside of the footing) which we call a Ufer ground. If the house is already built, we have to drive 2 8' ground rods instead of the Ufer.

We can run the GEC from the ground rods to the water pipe within 5' of it entering the house or directly to the panel.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drsparky said:


> It's Ufer, not ufer or UFER, Herbert G. Ufer.


Next you can tell us what STFU means.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> We have to run a GEC to the metal water line. We also need a suplimental grounding electrode. In a new house you have to use a concrete encased electrode (20' of rebar inside of the footing) which we call a Ufer ground. If the house is already built, we have to drive 2 8' ground rods instead of the Ufer.
> 
> We can run the GEC from the ground rods to the water pipe within 5' of it entering the house or directly to the panel.


Okay, I'm trying to imagine this. I have an old house. The basement ceiling is 7'. Somehow I manage to get an 8' ground rod into 7' headspace. I drill a hole in the concrete floor. I get down two feet and hit a tree root with my ground rod.

And I have to do this twice?

Or do you pound them in outside and pipe the wire in? What about frozen dirt? I know some places down there have frozen dirt.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Okay, I'm trying to imagine this. I have an old house. The basement ceiling is 7'. Somehow I manage to get an 8' ground rod into 7' headspace. I drill a hole in the concrete floor. I get down two feet and hit a tree root with my ground rod.
> 
> And I have to do this twice?
> 
> Or do you pound them in outside and pipe the wire in? What about frozen dirt? I know some places down there have frozen dirt.


You drive them outside. Haven't you seen all the threads about driving ground rods? You are posting in one right now :laughing:

Driving a ground rod into frozen dirt is easier than digging a hole for that plate you guys use. 

We don't pipe the wire (GEC) in here, we just run it any way that we can. There is no depth requirement for it.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Next you can tell us what STFU means.


Probably a surname from a country with a vowel shortage.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Here is an example. You can see the GEC coming out of the house and the 2 ground rods I drove in by hand until I couldnt get them any further. That was time for the Hilti.









I'm using the iPad so it uploaded the image sideways.


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

Suncoast Power said:


> I found the guys using an 18 volt Milwaukee SDS drill with a deep socket.
> It was pushing them in pretty.
> The guys were as proud a two peckered billy goat.


If be proud too if I figured out how to attach a socket to a hammer drill bit. Do they make a 3/8 drive adapter or something?

Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/5337-21


I bought one of these in 1983, I've been using it ever since.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> You drive them outside. Haven't you seen all the threads about driving ground rods? You are posting in one right now :laughing:
> 
> Driving a ground rod into frozen dirt is easier than digging a hole for that plate you guys use.
> 
> We don't pipe the wire (GEC) in here, we just run it any way that we can. There is no depth requirement for it.


I don't usually read ground rod posts. No need.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Here is an example. You can see the GEC coming out of the house and the 2 ground rods I drove in by hand until I couldnt get them any further. That was time for the Hilti.
> 
> View attachment 102913
> 
> ...


Cool. Thanks, Hack  .


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Toss it in the trench.


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## JRaef (Mar 23, 2009)

A piece of 2" RGC about 2ft long with a coupling on one end and a plumbing plug in the coupling (because they are stronger). Slide it up and down over the rod and let the weight drive it in.


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## CT Tom (Aug 10, 2014)

Hilti with rod driving attachment. Never tried the plates, will have to look into them, some areas here are brutal on rods.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

JRaef said:


> A piece of 2" RGC about 2ft long with a coupling on one end and a plumbing plug in the coupling (because they are stronger). Slide it up and down over the rod and let the weight drive it in.



We've a 5' 3/4"GRC sliding sledge, coupled @ 2' , for when there is no power

SDS hammer drill w/ 1/2" emt sleeve , if there is power available

In the case of an open ditch ,250.53G is taken advantage of (ala JLarson):thumbsup:

further> IF <25 Ohms validation were universal , I suspect Ufers would gain popularity rather quickly

~CS~


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Flyingsod said:


> If be proud too if I figured out how to attach a socket to a hammer drill bit. Do they make a 3/8 drive adapter or something?
> 
> Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


Now that I think about it, they were using my 18 volt fuel hammer drill.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I normally dig a small hole, fill it with water and jack it off all the way in. Then I hide the evidence by covering it with decent dirt.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

chicken steve said:


> further> IF <25 Ohms validation were universal , I suspect Ufers would gain popularity rather quickly


This might seem like a crazy idea but I think you should be allowed to make a ufer that isn't part of the foundation. Use it pretty much like a plate. 

I am pretty well convinced that surge protection works better with low ground impedance but after seeing the photos @drsparky posted of concrete damaged by lightning strikes, I wouldn't want the rebar in my foundation to be a ground electrode.


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## Buzz1067 (Dec 13, 2016)

*TheGroundPounder*

I recently purchased TheGroundPounder. It's a American made tool that works great. I only drive rods every other week on new services. I purchased this on website Greenwood Tool Company, but I did see J. Harlen Co. Is selling them as well. Great tool. There's a video on YouTube.

https://goo.gl/images/EHrthI


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Buzz1067 said:


> I recently purchased TheGroundPounder. It's a American made tool that works great. I only drive rods every other week on new services. I purchased this on website Greenwood Tool Company, but I did see J. Harlen Co. Is selling them as well. Great tool. There's a video on YouTube.
> 
> https://goo.gl/images/EHrthI


That's literally a pipe with a block of steel welded to it. $240?


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

Suncoast Power said:


> I found the guys using an 18 volt Milwaukee SDS drill with a deep socket.
> It was pushing them in pretty.
> _The guys were as proud a two peckered billy goat._


:laughing:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Suncoast Power said:


> I found the guys using an 18 volt Milwaukee SDS drill with a deep socket.
> It was pushing them in pretty.
> *The guys were as proud a two peckered billy goat.*


I can't say I have any idea how proud a two peckered billy goat would be.

Never came across such a goat. :no:

Do you frequent goat ranches often?:whistling2:


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## Buzz1067 (Dec 13, 2016)

The word for today is " manufactured" . Try to show Osha a tool welded up in a garage with no warning labels on a commercial job site.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Buzz1067 said:


> The word for today is " manufactured" . Try to show Osha a tool welded up in a garage with no warning labels on a commercial job site.


Are you serious?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Flyingsod said:


> If be proud too if I figured out how to attach a socket to a hammer drill bit. Do they make a 3/8 drive adapter or something?
> 
> Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


They makes adapters for SDS to 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" square drive.

The 1/2" one i have is made by Hitachi.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

SDS ground rod socket:










1" hex:










I'm sure they can be had for any shaft configuration.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

HackWork said:


> That's literally a pipe with a block of steel welded to it. $240?


Find a welder who can weld up four half inch plate squares on the end of a 2" piece of rigid that is say 2' long with threads, so, you can thread on another 18" piece. That would pound it down far enough to safely be able to use a roto hammer or flip the driver over and finish the job with the plates.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Buzz1067 said:


> The word for today is " manufactured" . Try to show Osha a tool welded up in a garage with no warning labels on a commercial job site.


While I would normally agree with your thought process here, I have seen plenty of tools such as shovels, sledge hammers, and fence post drivers that have the look of 'home made' and have absolutely zero labels on them and have never been questioned or seen them brought up by inspectors of any kind.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Buzz1067*  
_The word for today is " manufactured" . Try to show Osha a tool welded up in a garage with no warning labels on a commercial job site._

While I would normally agree with your thought process here, I have seen plenty of tools such as shovels, sledge hammers, and fence post drivers that have the look of 'home made' and have absolutely zero labels on them and have never been questioned or seen them brought up by inspectors of any kind. 

Sometimes the "homemade" tool is the only option to keep you from serious hand injury.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

Got a machine shop guy to make this for me in '79. Weighs 14Kg or 30.86 pounds. 1/2 inch wall on that pipe.

Tried to use it a couple of years back.  Screw that. Went to HD and rented a Bosh and ground rod driver bit.

I hurt myself dragging it out for you guys this morning. I think I'll throw it out.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

daveEM said:


> Got a machine shop guy to make this for me in '79. Weighs 14Kg or 30.86 pounds. 1/2 inch wall on that pipe.
> 
> Tried to use it a couple of years back.  Screw that. Went to HD and rented a Bosh and ground rod driver bit.
> 
> I hurt myself dragging it out for you guys this morning. I think I'll throw it out.


If you are going to use that, get yourself one of these as a helper:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Real bad driving method:


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Real bad driving method:


You aren't kidding. Hopefully that was just for the photo.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

What could possibly go wrong?


MechanicalDVR said:


> Real bad driving method:


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

five.five-six said:


> What could possibly go wrong?


He should clearly have on safety glasses. What if the ground rod shatters into a million pieces?


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## John M. (Oct 29, 2016)

You said you used your 18 volt fuel Milwaukee? What socket did you put on it?


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## samgregger (Jan 23, 2013)

HackWork said:


> Here is an example. You can see the GEC coming out of the house and the 2 ground rods I drove in by hand until I couldnt get them any further. That was time for the ̶H̶i̶l̶t̶i̶ cutoff wheel.


That's better


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## mitch65 (Mar 26, 2015)

I used one of these last summer. It took all of about 15 seconds to drive a rod in fairly loose soil. They have rod adapters for them. Slick but expensive if you dont use it a lot.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

I bought one of these at Home Depot when I had to drive 12 of them for a concert event.









Good $40 investment


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Suncoast Power said:


> I bought one of these at Home Depot when I had to drive 12 of them for a concert event.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


And it even comes with a sticker on it, without having to pay an extra $200 :thumbsup:


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Real bad driving method:


That has to be a 'gag' shot.

The bucket, alone, would press the rod into the earth.


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## Buzz1067 (Dec 13, 2016)

That red one was a good investment. You needed a ladder to start it, and a sledgehammer to finish it. The forty bucks went to some Chinese family overseas while the good ole America worker collected welfare all because his fellow American complained about the higher price he had to pay for the tool he could write off on taxes.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

John M. said:


> You said you used your 18 volt fuel Milwaukee? What socket did you put on it?


I was a deep socket and they were 5/8" rod so, must have been at least one size up from that.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Buzz1067 said:


> That red one was a good investment. You needed a ladder to start it, and a sledgehammer to finish it. The forty bucks went to some Chinese family overseas while the good ole America worker collected welfare all because his fellow American complained about the higher price he had to pay for the tool he could write off on taxes.


It paid 3 union guys OT for 12 hours. Not a bad investment.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

HackWork said:


> And it even comes with a sticker on it, without having to pay an extra $200 :thumbsup:


The plate is a bit thin, it has ground rod prints on it.
I would like to find a small chunk of plate and plug weld it inside of the bottom.


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## cc2kj (Aug 3, 2012)

Aren't most water lines plastic out to the street anymore?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

cc2kj said:


> Aren't most water lines plastic out to the street anymore?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In most places, I haven't seen a new copper water line go installed in a long while.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

cc2kj said:


> Aren't most water lines plastic out to the street anymore?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's always a risk, that and poking through the sewer line.
I try to be as tight against the footer as possible and look for clean outs, valves and other clues something might be underground.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Suncoast Power said:


> It's always a risk, that and poking through the sewer line.
> I try to be as tight against the footer as possible and look for clean outs, valves and other clues something might be underground.


You exercise some due diligence rather than just jump in like a mad man.
Experience taking ove the task at hand!:thumbsup:


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## John M. (Oct 29, 2016)

I have a Milwaukee impact wrench with a 1/2" drive for a socket. Are there any ground rod driver sockets to fit that?


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

I've used sledge hammers, SDS Macho Drills, Back Hoes, and 90 pound jack hammers to drive ground rods.
Did a project where I had 80 - 10' x 3/4 grounds rods to put in. The J-men and apprentices all complained about how hard it was to get them driven. Being the boss I figured I guess I need to show these P***ies how to put in a ground rod ! Learned a lesson that day ! My Ass was handed to me. I'd never seen ground so hard! 
I ended up having my backhoe operator lift me up in the front bucket, Put a 90 pound jack hammer on the rod and hit the lever. The operator slowly lowered the bucket as the rods were going in. Did that for about 60 couple of the rods.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

I'm curious as to what would _require_ *80 *Manchester? ~CS~


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

A school with triangle grounds (three ground rods driven in a triangle for each ground point and there are multiple ground points).


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Buzz1067 said:


> The forty bucks went to some Chinese family overseas while the good ole America worker collected welfare all because his fellow American complained about the higher price he had to pay for the tool he could write off on taxes.


Your other excuse about the sticker was cute, but this is just downright sad.

You bought it, if you like it than you don't have to justify your purchase to anyone. But stop with the stupid excuses trying to defend it's outrageous price to everyone else. For $240 you can buy a barely used demo hammer on eBay.

BTW, being able to write a tool off on taxes is meaningless when it comes to wasting an extra $200. Sometimes I think people don't even understand what a write-off is.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

John M. said:


> I have a Milwaukee impact wrench with a 1/2" drive for a socket. Are there any ground rod driver sockets to fit that?


An impact wrench/gun won't drive a ground rod.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Buzz1067 said:


> That red one was a good investment. You needed a ladder to start it, and a sledgehammer to finish it. The forty bucks went to some Chinese family overseas while the good ole America worker collected welfare all because his fellow American complained about the higher price he had to pay for the tool he could write off on taxes.


At this point in time if the American worker capable of working went on welfare in lieu of finding a job he is a lazy F'.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

We had a job years ago we had to drive 256 10' rods the old hammer drill and ground rod attachment did the trick. you could start a rod and go back to trenching while it drove away.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> BTW, being able to write a tool off on taxes is meaningless when it comes to wasting an extra $200. Sometimes I think people don't even understand what a write-off is.


VERY true. It's very surprising how many people think a write off is like getting it for free. Every business owner will understand within a year or so  

(You don't get to deduct the price of the tool from the amount of taxes you pay, at zero cost to you. You just get to not pay taxes on the money you spent on that tool.)


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

brian john said:


> We had a job years ago we had to drive 256 10' rods the old hammer drill and ground rod attachment did the trick. you could start a rod and go back to trenching while it drove away.



This is all I ever do. They have a trigger lock for a reason. I don't even start it from a ladder anymore. No other nonsense tools to carry, that only drive ground rods. 

The ground rod adapter takes up no space at all in my Hilti case.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

manchestersparky said:


> I've used sledge hammers, SDS Macho Drills, Back Hoes, and 90 pound jack hammers to drive ground rods.
> Did a project where I had 80 - 10' x 3/4 grounds rods to put in. The J-men and apprentices all complained about how hard it was to get them driven. Being the boss I figured I guess I need to show these P***ies how to put in a ground rod ! Learned a lesson that day ! My Ass was handed to me. I'd never seen ground so hard!
> I ended up having my backhoe operator lift me up in the front bucket, Put a 90 pound jack hammer on the rod and hit the lever. The operator slowly lowered the bucket as the rods were going in. Did that for about 60 couple of the rods.


Improvise, adapt, and overcome!


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## mdnitedrftr (Aug 21, 2013)

brian john said:


> We had a job years ago we had to drive 256 10' rods the old hammer drill and ground rod attachment did the trick. you could start a rod and go back to trenching while it drove away.


Why so many ground rods?


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## cc2kj (Aug 3, 2012)

Suncoast Power said:


> It's always a risk, that and poking through the sewer line.
> 
> I try to be as tight against the footer as possible and look for clean outs, valves and other clues something might be underground.



That's true. But what I was getting at is that bonding of the water line in new construction is over. It's all plastic around here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

cc2kj said:


> That's true. But what I was getting at is that bonding of the water line in new construction is over. It's all plastic around here.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well if it's all plastic in the house and outside the house, there is no metal to bond to I would think. I believe all you'd do is sink two ground rods and be done with it.


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## cc2kj (Aug 3, 2012)

Bird dog said:


> Well if it's all plastic in the house and outside the house, there is no metal to bond to I would think. I believe all you'd do is sink two ground rods and be done with it.



My question is there is all this talk in this thread about bonding the water line. I'm curious where this is because around here everything is PEX. No one runs copper anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Bird dog said:


> Well if it's all plastic in the house and outside the house, there is no metal to bond to I would think. I believe all you'd do is sink two ground rods and be done with it.


You need the Ufer ground too.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

cc2kj said:


> My question is there is all this talk in this thread about bonding the water line. I'm curious where this is because around here everything is PEX. No one runs copper anymore.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When upgrading services on older houses, you have to upgrade the grounding too, which the main electrode is the water pipe and the suplimental one is driving two ground rods.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

My community requires a minimum of 10 feet of 1" copper. Most are copper the whole way.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

mdnitedrftr said:


> Why so many ground rods?


Repairing a ground plane for an AM radio station


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> My community requires a minimum of 10 feet of 1" copper. Most are copper the whole way.



WHY? And if not tested at time of install then regularly tested the rods could be corroded and not as effective as they feel a 1" 10' rod should be.


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

chicken steve said:


> I'm curious as to what would _require_ *80 *Manchester? ~CS~


Was a prison Job I was running. 50 new perimeter light poles. I was not allowed to just put them in the bases. I had to drive them next to the bases in undisturbed soil. 
Then I had 3 Generators, 4 new guard towers (with panels in each one). A new building for the Guards. 3 new Medium Voltage Transformers, a new kitchen building. 
It was a great project,all done in phases. In Total it lasted 3 years.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

brian john said:


> WHY? And if not tested at time of install then regularly tested the rods could be corroded and not as effective as they feel a 1" 10' rod should be.


Sorry,I should have said for the main water line. Our water lines are almost all copper here.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

manchestersparky said:


> Was a prison Job I was running. 50 new perimeter light poles. I was not allowed to just put them in the bases. I had to drive them next to the bases in undisturbed soil.
> Then I had 3 Generators, 4 new guard towers (with panels in each one). A new building for the Guards. 3 new Medium Voltage Transformers, a new kitchen building.
> It was a great project,all done in phases. In Total it lasted 3 years.


Where?

Hagerstown?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> Sorry,I should have said for the main water line. Our water lines are almost all copper here.


I was thinking that but glad you cleared it up.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

John M. said:


> I have a Milwaukee impact wrench with a 1/2" drive for a socket. Are there any ground rod driver sockets to fit that?


Just put a 3/4" deep socket on it. :thumbsup:


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

HackWork said:


> An impact wrench/gun won't drive a ground rod.


I'll admit it was somewhat of a beach environment with compacted sand when we did it.
Also, I have no problem driving ground rods at a very steep angle if it would go any faster.


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## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

We got a variance on one site for the rod length and is the only time we were "allowed" to modify the length.. There was a layer of slate that about 9' below grade and you couldn't get through it with a rod... All of the piles they were installing had to be predrilled to 90% diameter. We went in til we hit it and cut them off.. Also deleted the 100 or so along the piperacks nd used the piles for those rods.. But all the building ones were still a battle..

There have been a few places I've been to that want 60-80' rods too and those can be fun, depending on where they are going..


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## Semi-Ret Electrician (Nov 10, 2011)

Buzz1067 said:


> I recently purchased TheGroundPounder. It's a American made tool that works great. I only drive rods every other week on new services. I purchased this on website Greenwood Tool Company, but I did see J. Harlen Co. Is selling them as well. Great tool. There's a video on YouTube.
> 
> https://goo.gl/images/EHrthI


The video looks like he was driving it into quicksand


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Semi-Ret Electrician said:


> The video looks like he was driving it into quicksand


I think if that flat end was just a bit concave it would help avoid glancing blows.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Semi-Ret Electrician said:


> The video looks like he was driving it into quicksand


yeah Id love to see him using that tool to drive a ground rod in the clay and rock we have here


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## manchestersparky (Mar 25, 2007)

brian john said:


> Where?
> 
> Hagerstown?


Out side of Jessup - but I also did work at that prison as well - redid the metal shops. The last company I was with did a good amount of prison / jail work


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Did you see Avon Barksdale when you were in Jessup??


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Due to the glaciers of 20,000 years ago... many of us have to deal with truly rotten ground.

Every hill and mountain around here used to be covered by miles of ice... which took all the topsoil away.

Our local solution to bad, so-called, soil is to power it out with a back-hoe or excavator. The size of these machines and their slow rate of progress would astound you. 

Their shovels often have to be replaced by hydraulic jack-hammer heads. (!!!)

After the original material has been powered out, it, the hole, is backfilled with decent fill. ( typ. screened to 2" minus ) 

This is then re-compacted... and made tight.

Next an auger punches a hole for a light base... 

Or a ground rod or two is driven.

BTW, hereabouts, Ufers are required. Ground rods are limited to dinky temp Services.

Plan B is a Ground Ring. ( 3/0 is the norm )


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