# 100hp motor, using bolt on lugs for terminal box



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

You ARE speaking of the pecker-head?


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

Does one of the local supply houses rent the hydraulic crimper? Are there requirements from the motor or equipment company that specify crimp on lugs? Sometimes they tell you what to use for the connections.


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## JRaef (Mar 23, 2009)

I would rent a crimper...


Actually I would buy one, because the NEXT time you had to rent one, you would have paid for it.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

As @telsa asked where?
I don't like bolt on lugs to fixed terminal blocks in pecker heads due to vibrations. Crimped are no problem or in off motor applications. Also remember motor leads are fine strand cable and may need special rated connectors if you every do the motor side.

Cowboy


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## Breakfasteatre (Sep 8, 2009)

I've never heard it called a peckerhead in canadurpp, only on this forum.

One of our tenants is a supply house so I ordered up the lugs and it's only 25 bucks to rent the crimper. 

Thanks for the advice guys!


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Breakfasteatre said:


> *I've never heard it called a peckerhead in canadurpp, only on this forum.*
> 
> One of our tenants is a supply house so I ordered up the lugs and it's only 25 bucks to rent the crimper.
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys!


You ain't been around.:wink:


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Or seen the right shaped one on a big motor


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Sounds like a euro motor with the white terminal block inside the pecker head. 

If so be careful and don't go farm tight or you will break the block. 

P.s if anything goes wrong and you have cut the crimps of the motor cables or remove the block then you can forget about the warranty


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## joebanana (Dec 21, 2010)

telsa said:


> You ARE speaking of the pecker-head?


Hey, hey, hey, this is a family oriented site. Of sorts. But I guess "pot head" isn't much better. Carry on!


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## joebanana (Dec 21, 2010)

Breakfasteatre said:


> I've never heard it called a peckerhead in canadurpp, only on this forum.
> 
> One of our tenants is a supply house so I ordered up the lugs and it's only 25 bucks to rent the crimper.
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys!


You should hear what we call large black temp power cord.


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

Breakfasteatre said:


> In the past with the few motors this size that I have terminated, there have been wire leads and I've used split bolts.
> 
> What are your thoughts?


We use crimps or insulated taps.

I don't think I've ever seen or have come across a motor spliced with split bolts...


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

Cow said:


> We use crimps or insulated taps.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I've ever seen or have come across a motor spliced with split bolts...


I have. And I have respliced a motor because the sharp edges of the split bolt shorted against the peckerhead cover. 

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

Cow said:


> We use crimps or insulated taps.
> 
> I don't think I've ever seen or have come across a motor spliced with split bolts...


Might be a regional thing but it's pretty common around here, but becoming a little rarer due to kearney's being pretty expensive.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

460 Delta said:


> Might be a regional thing but it's pretty common around here, but becoming a little rarer due to kearney's being pretty expensive.


Same here.


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## paulengr (Oct 8, 2017)

Split bolts are UL ZMVV. Two wires only. For connecting cables together. Dry locations only. Coarse strand only unless specifically marked. Not for vibration. So three strikes against use in peckerheads and we only need one to fail it,

Like others I’ve replaced a lot of split bolts. Insulated terminals (Insultaps, Polaris plugs, etc.) last a little longer until they wear through the rubber jacket. Wire nuts fall off and are same category as split bolts (ZMVV). So I’m firmly in the crimped lug camp. They’re smaller, they hold up, and rated for it. It takes less time to install mechanical lugs but I’ve seen far more failures with them.

Aside from cutting through insulation just take a look at the wire after removal. What you want to see is all strands making full contact. That means there is enough pressure to crush every strand and crack the oxide coating, and squeeze then so we get metal to metal contact, essentially a cold weld. Anything less is just mechanical holding but ZERO electrical contact. Mechanical lugs with the set screws definitely do this in ONE SPOT. 90% of the cable is just pushed to the side and doesn’t contribute anything to power transmission. This is especially true of fine strand motor leads which mostly just snap off in the crush zone too. The box type mechanicals with a slide tend to do much better but most don’t have enough pressure to work well enough. Even crimp connectors are mostly not fine strand rated.

As far as the IEC terminal block vs North American lead wires approach both work. I have had trouble with some peckerheads where terminal blocks would be nice but also peckerheads where there isn’t enough wire bending space with the IEC terminals, and I’ve had them crack and the brass studs like to strip out. I would be a 100% IEC fan boy if the terminal block was made better.


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## Breakfasteatre (Sep 8, 2009)

Great insights. Thanks guys!


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

I like the motor terminal blocks the best. Put on your lugs and bolt down.
No dressing required, no bolts, washers, nuts and especially no split bolts to worry about.
They also come with jumpers that can be adjusted to operation.
This motor termination is the best and the easiest.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

I've used split bolts. Not inspected, utility install. Tighten down, one layer vinyl, ball of duct seal around, double layer of 130C and a final layer of vinyl. Many have been in service for 30+ years, no issues.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

John Valdes said:


> I like the motor terminal blocks the best. Put on your lugs and bolt down.
> No dressing required, no bolts, washers, nuts and especially no split bolts to worry about.
> They also come with jumpers that can be adjusted to operation.
> This motor termination is the best and the easiest.


On larger motors ive seen the wires crack there insulation due to heat from the motor and the tight radius you have to bend to get the lead in without crossing over the sharp studs.

We had a lot of 12 lead wye delta 100 hp centrifuge motors and they were a nightmare to get 6 leads and 3 jumpers landed. 

On rewinds we had them remove the terminal block which made termination a lot simpler.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

joe-nwt said:


> I've used split bolts. Not inspected, utility install. Tighten down, one layer vinyl, ball of duct seal around, double layer of 130C and a final layer of vinyl. Many have been in service for 30+ years, no issues.


That’s close to how I do it,Scotch 27, then a few layers of 130C, then a couple wraps of 1755 friction on top. 
In my opinion, tightening is key, tighten then rap with a small hammer, then repeat until it won’t get tighter. I’ve used this system for years with good results.


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

paulengr said:


> Split bolts are UL ZMVV. Two wires only. For connecting cables together. Dry locations only. Coarse strand only unless specifically marked. Not for vibration. So three strikes against use in peckerheads and we only need one to fail it,
> 
> Like others I’ve replaced a lot of split bolts. Insulated terminals (Insultaps, Polaris plugs, etc.) last a little longer until they wear through the rubber jacket. Wire nuts fall off and are same category as split bolts (ZMVV). So I’m firmly in the crimped lug camp. They’re smaller, they hold up, and rated for it. It takes less time to install mechanical lugs but I’ve seen far more failures with them.


There are a lot of split bolts rated for 3 wires, they are also rated for fine stranded and welding wire. Actually all the ones I buy now are rated for 3 wires. I will NEVER use polaris on motors. I have replaced 100's of motors due to polaris. If its a pump with high vibration or heat they loosen up and then melt. Split bolts will not loosen up with vibration after they are taped up where polaris can with the set screws and different metals for the screws/wires/connector. For medium sized motors I use split bolts, for large motors I use crimp lugs and then bolt together. If done properly split bolts will not fail. I have not had one split bolt fail in 20 years. You need cambric tape, rubber splicing tape, and supper 33. It will not wear through.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

gpop said:


> On larger motors ive seen the wires crack there insulation due to heat from the motor and the tight radius you have to bend to get the lead in without crossing over the sharp studs.
> 
> We had a lot of 12 lead wye delta 100 hp centrifuge motors and they were a nightmare to get 6 leads and 3 jumpers landed.
> 
> On rewinds we had them remove the terminal block which made termination a lot simpler.


I always crossed over if required. So the radius was not an issue. But thats because of enclosure size not because of the block.
And yes, in the motor shop we had many ask for the blocks to be removed.
Jumpers were under all the leads and posed no obstruction. They played no part whatsoever.

Each method has its pros and cons. Split bolts are the worst and take the most time. Bolts and nuts while better, still required more attention.
Terminal blocks require no tape, no rubber or any vinyl. All that is required is a socket wrench and lugs on the leads.
I like them.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

John Valdes said:


> I always crossed over if required. So the radius was not an issue. But thats because of enclosure size not because of the block.
> And yes, in the motor shop we had many ask for the blocks to be removed.
> Jumpers were under all the leads and posed no obstruction. They played no part whatsoever.
> 
> ...


Being in the motor shop, it probably wasn't a problem to put on an oversized peckerhead or put a long whip on the motor with some type of flex or connector.


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## Quickservice (Apr 23, 2020)

kb1jb1 said:


> Does one of the local supply houses rent the hydraulic crimper? Are there requirements from the motor or equipment company that specify crimp on lugs? Sometimes they tell you what to use for the connections.


Both supply houses I used to worked for rented out hydraulic crimpers. If it was a very good customer we often loaned them out rent free.


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## JRaef (Mar 23, 2009)

460 Delta said:


> Might be a regional thing but it's pretty common around here, but becoming a little rarer due to kearney's being pretty expensive.


 Yep. I learned in a Steel Mill where that was considered the ONLY acceptable method; split bolt, a layer of varnished cambric tape, a layer of 3M 88 rubber splicing tape, then 3M 33+ on top. In fact on the rare occasions (back then) when we got in some Eurotrash motor with a terminal block, it was our policy to cut it off and use the split bolts. Anyone caught using a wire nut for a motor connection was written up.



Now though Polaris (type) connectors are becoming more prevalent; I wish those had existed back then...


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

JRaef said:


> Yep. I learned in a Steel Mill where that was considered the ONLY acceptable method; split bolt, a layer of varnished cambric tape, a layer of 3M 88 rubber splicing tape, then 3M 33+ on top. In fact on the rare occasions (back then) when we got in some Eurotrash motor with a terminal block, it was our policy to cut it off and use the split bolts. Anyone caught using a wire nut for a motor connection was written up.
> 
> 
> 
> Now though Polaris (type) connectors are becoming more prevalent; I wish those had existed back then...


I think that 1755 friction is the way to go as the last layer, it seems, in my limited experience, to hold up to vibration much better than 33 or 88.


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