# Wannabe Electricians and Damn Wire Nuts!



## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

PsiMan84 said:


> Get someone tell my there are so many so many electricians that seem to love putting wire nuts on for a compressor running 40amps draw? Went today to a service call and kept hearing buzzing from a junction box everytime compressor started. Guess what i saw? 6AWG wires tired together with wire nuts. I see this so much out there and in one instance i went out for compressor problems and when i started compressor i saw smoke coming out from junction box with this same setup. This stuff makes me angry. :no:


Were the wire nuts rated for number six? If so they are rated for use on your compressor. Why would you be angry? You got to make money on a service call!


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

This guy is under some serious pressure. :laughing:


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

i just have an issue with using wire nuts on things like this. cause every time a compressor starts it draws like 4 times the amperage. It is easy money so i don't complain at that. I'm the type of guy that does all motor connections with split bolts instead of wire nuts. You have less problems in connections. Is there any motor control electrical guy that can back me up here. lol.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

If the nuts were rated for 2 #6's and were installed properly I really see no problem with doing the install like that.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

I'm not a motor control electrical guy but I split bolt splice #6 cu all the time. The biggest wirenuts I use are the big blue ones but I don't use those to splice #6.
I'm not sure but i don't think they're listed for even one #6.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I have used big blue Scotchlok for (2) #6 and I just checked the rating.. fits specs..


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

Rudeboy said:


> I'm not a motor control electrical guy but I split bolt splice #6 cu all the time. The biggest wirenuts I use are the big blue ones but I don't use those to splice #6.
> I'm not sure but i don't think they're listed for one #6.


Same Here. I've even seen #4 with wire nuts. If electricians think its ok then :thumbsup: bring on the service calls. Need some overtime anyways. :thumbup:


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## one2question (Sep 2, 2010)

Why not crimp? That is the most permanent and maintenance free install. I have been places that spec all connections to be crimped. They hardly ever if ever fail.:thumbup:


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Black4Truck said:


> I have used big blue Scotchlok for (2) #6 and I just checked the rating.. fits specs..


Yep, no need to break out the split bolts. I have probably used 100's if not thousands of those "big blues" and have yet to see a failure, even on two #6's.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

You can't have girly hands to use them on (2) #6.. I hold the conductors with my pliers and twist the wire nut till the plastic touched the jaws..


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## pugz134 (Nov 8, 2010)

I am a big fan of the NSI type insulated splices. They are small enough to use for number 6 inside a motor peckerhead. All different type hole setups to allow for different wiring combinations. I refuse to use Burndys anymore. Too much time to insulate.

Just my 2 cents


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

Black4Truck said:


> You can't have girly hands to use them on (2) #6.. I hold the conductors with my pliers and twist the wire nut till the plastic touched the jaws..


agree on this. i don't know how many times i go to service calls cause of lose connections on a compressor causing high amps.


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> Yep, no need to break out the split bolts. I have probably used 100's if not thousands of those "big blues" and have yet to see a failure, even on two #6's.


 
I have used plenty of big blues. when I saw the original post, I was starting to think I've been dioing it wrong.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

I think you guys _are_ doing it wrong. 

Pretty sure they're listed for two #8 and not #6.


Hope you don't burn the building down.
:laughing:
:thumbsup:
j/k


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

i just figrued i'd post something like this on this forum cause i know how everybody likes to get at each other here. Like the old man that showed me the tricks of the trade once told me, everyone has there way of doing things and everyone will always tell you their way is right. I use wire nuts alot to be honest its just this instance got me angry cause there was no disconnect. Just wires from compressor tied in junction box. thats when i got kinda mad.


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

do wirenuts even have amperage ratings? i'm here looking at datasheets for wirenuts and all i see are voltage ratings.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Rudeboy said:


> Hope you don't burn the building down.


It's far too late for that. In fact I just got a memo that me and the rest of my company have to go to fire fighting training cause we are going to start putting out our own fires. :laughing:


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

PsiMan84 said:


> do wirenuts even have amperage ratings? i'm here looking at datasheets for wirenuts and all i see are voltage ratings.


Well, in a way they do.
:whistling2:


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

Rudeboy said:


> Well, in a way they do.
> :whistling2:


The way i figure they are telling you they are is by telling you what wire size its made for.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

PsiMan84 said:


> The way i figure they are telling you they are is by telling you what wire size its made for.


Yes. I thought my brain was working strangely tonight but yes, that's what i was alluding to. 
How much water it holds...


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

screw it i'm using this from now on. Says for all connections. :laughing::thumbup:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

3M Scotchlok (B) 20066.. rated for (2) #6


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

Ideal WT54-1 Buchanan WingTwist
Wire Connectors

These are the ones i see day in and day out. 
says 


600V (1,000V maximum in fixtures and signs)
#14 to #6 AWG
Min. 3 #12
*Max. 1 #6 with 2 #8 *
Four color-coded models accept #18 to #6 AWG wire
Unique contoured wing design provides maximum torque
Fixed, square-wire spring
No pre-twisting required
UL Listed and CSA Certified
Reusable
Shell rated for 105° C
Flame-retardant shell


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

So it's a problem of people not using material properly not a problem with the material itself.


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

True. I had never looked at the specs before so gotta agree. there is nothing wrong with the material. Just not properly used for the wires it was designed to be used with in the first place.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Accepts 3 #12 to *2 #6 w*/1 #12 AWG wire combinations
Rated for 600 Volt maximum
Contoured wing design for secure grip
Live-action, square-wire spring
No pre-twisting required
UL Listed and CSA Certified
Reusable
Shell rated for 105° C
Flame-retardant shell


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

B4t is correct, nice to know.
:thumbsup:


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## miller_elex (Jan 25, 2008)

Use a Blue Wingnut, and tape that bitch on!


No need to waste money or time on split bolts....


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Black4Truck said:


> Accepts 3 #12 to *2 #6 w*/1 #12 AWG wire combinations
> Rated for 600 Volt maximum
> Contoured wing design for secure grip
> Live-action, square-wire spring
> ...


That's my favorite nut.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

miller_elex said:


> Use a Blue Wingnut, and tape that bitch on!
> 
> 
> No need to waste money or time on split bolts....


Those are IDEAL wire nuts.. best you can get IMO.. :thumbsup:


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

PsiMan84 said:


> do wirenuts even have amperage ratings? i'm here looking at datasheets for wirenuts and all i see are voltage ratings.


 I don't think they do because the wirenut isn't supposed to be current-carrying. All it's supposed to do is hold the wires in tight contact with each other, so the mating surface of the conductor carries the current. You can get high-temperature wirenuts that are made entirely of porcelain and have no metal in them whatsoever.

I think the idea behind the conductor sizes is just to tell you what they can hold before they start to break....

And if we're plugging wirenuts: Nothing beats 3M Performance Plus! :thumbsup:

-John


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## miller_elex (Jan 25, 2008)

Big John said:


> Nothing beats 3M Performance Plus! :thumbsup:


Is that the tan one with the red skirt? WTF? I hate the dually colored wirenuts!!!!!!!! When I want a tan, I need a tan, when I want a red, I need a red, call me anal.


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

That only shows the "features" of the wirenut. If you look at the specs you will see it takes two #6 no problem.
http://yellow77.com/media/pdfs/products/references/ideal_ul_listed_combinations.pdf




PsiMan84 said:


> Ideal WT54-1 Buchanan WingTwist
> Wire Connectors
> 
> These are the ones i see day in and day out.
> ...


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## Ima Hack (Aug 31, 2009)

Black4Truck said:


> You can't have girly hands to use them on (2) #6.. I hold the conductors with my pliers and twist the wire nut till the plastic touched the jaws..


Exactly, I've used the big blue wirenuts many times and never had a callback. The key is to get tight the first time, especially with the vibration you'll get from a compressor.


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## PsiMan84 (Oct 29, 2010)

Ima Hack said:


> Exactly, I've used the big blue wirenuts many times and never had a callback. The key is to get tight the first time, especially with the vibration you'll get from a compressor.


i think that might be the main culprit. Cause i will go to a service call and those suckers would be melted. Is that an on going issue? people not tightening connections correctly? Some of these microprocessor controllers that i work on are so sensitive that they display fault codes just because someone was too lazy to tighten things correctly.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

miller_elex said:


> Is that the tan one with the red skirt? WTF? I hate the dually colored wirenuts!!!!!!!! When I want a tan, I need a tan, when I want a red, I need a red, call me anal.


 Alright, that's anal.:jester:
I just like 'em because they work on so many combinations. If I get in a bind and gotta splice 3 #12 and for some reason I only have orange wirenuts, normally I'd be out of luck, but the if I've got the 3M oranges, then they can handle it!

-John


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

electricmanscott said:


> That only shows the "features" of the wirenut. If you look at the specs you will see it takes two #6 no problem.
> http://yellow77.com/media/pdfs/products/references/ideal_ul_listed_combinations.pdf


 :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

It's not the nut, it's the nutter.

The wire nuts were not properly installed.

I always use chanel locks to tighten up blue nuts.


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## JacksonburgFarmer (Jul 5, 2008)

I do not like using wirenuts for a motor....period. 

However I do like when others do.....makes for more service calls for me.

IF you are going to use wirenuts on a motor, strip conductors about 1.5" long, un twist, put all conductors together, twist, and cut to spec.d' length. Then install wire nut. At this point the wire nut is a insulator, instead of a connector.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

JacksonburgFarmer said:


> I do not like using wirenuts for a motor....period.
> 
> However I do like when others do.....makes for more service calls for me.
> 
> IF you are going to use wirenuts on a motor, strip conductors about 1.5" long, un twist, put all conductors together, twist, and cut to spec.d' length. Then install wire nut. At this point the wire nut is a insulator, instead of a connector.


I don't use nuts in the terminal box of the motor itself, but in a jbox for the circuit feeding the motor I will.


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## oldtimer (Jun 10, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> (I don't use nuts in the terminal box of the motor itself,) but in a jbox for the circuit feeding the motor I will.


 So, what do you use?


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

oldtimer said:


> So, what do you use?


Ring terminals bolted together, split bolts, Polaris lugs. Though on occasion I have twisted and soldered and then capped with a wirenut.


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