# Temp Service



## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

If it's overhead, you'll need a stout post (at least a 6x6) dug in fairly deep, and if it's a long drop, probably some diagonal braces to support it. Make sure it's tall enough to satisfy Poco's and CEC's overhead clearance requirements.

If it's underground then just stuff a post in the ground and mount a meter main to it. Don't forget a ground rod or two either way.

I usually just stick a couple of weatherproof boxes and in-use covers on the post with some GFCI receptacles. You shouldn't need any more than two or three 20 amp circuits.

After the regular service is up, take down your temporary deal and store it at the shop for the next job. You can rent it out to people too for some extra pocket change.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Be careful where you sink ground rods. Contact the POCO and the gas utility before banging any in.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

I can't put a receptacle in before the rough in for one inspector. I mounted an RV box at the service on a new house wiring job(30 amp and 20 amp) before the rough and was fined by the state. Now no one gets power before the rough in.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

backstay said:


> I can't put a receptacle in before the rough in for one inspector. I mounted an RV box at the service on a new house wiring job(30 amp and 20 amp) before the rough and was fined by the state. Now no one gets power before the rough in.


Wow that is really ********.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

erics37 said:


> Wow that is really ********.


I tried to fight it by going over his head, but the state said too bad...pay up! Cost me about $105 extra.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

backstay said:


> I tried to fight it by going over his head, but the state said too bad...pay up! Cost me about $105 extra.


What part of Article 590 did that violate?:blink:


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## cwsparky (Mar 26, 2012)

*Passing the math on the IBEW test*

I am a aspiring electrician. graduated from Atlanta Technical College. finding it difficult to find work in the electrical field. Getting ready to take the IBEW test again for the third time really feel I'm ready this time. I will never give up but, feel like time is passing me by. any tips on how to pass don't care just trying to get work cause I finally feel like I found what I want to do for the rest of my life. Any suggesttions?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Whiteway said:


> Putting up my first temporary service for a new house. I've done temp services for commercial jobs before but never a resi job. Any tips guys might have for me. Im in Canada too.


I wouldn't think you'll need anything different than you do on commercial work, except you won't need any crazy 240 receptacles for spider box cords or anything. Just a few GFCI receptacles, each on its own circuit. The bubble cover is a requirement, but the lids don't last long. I generally tack up a piece of rubber roofing to hang down over the whole shebang, because the covers get ripped off about 2 days after you heat the temp pole up. If you have surplus or used junk laying around to build your temp service from, use that stuff up. No need to go brand new or fancy, I feel.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

HARRY304E said:


> What part of Article 590 did that violate?:blink:


They said I didn't file for a temp service. I did file for the whole house, but that just wasn't good enough for this guy.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

backstay said:


> They said I didn't file for a temp service. I did file for the whole house, but that just wasn't good enough for this guy.


Well if you didn't pull a permit and get your temp service inspected then that's a totally different story. Not the state that's ******** in that case :whistling2:


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

erics37 said:


> Well if you didn't pull a permit and get your temp service inspected then that's a totally different story. Not the state that's ******** in that case :whistling2:


The RV box was an add on to the job. It was wired in at the pole from a meter main with breakers in it. It is still there. I never thought of it as a temp service(it isn't a service, it's a feeder). We have a system here where as jobs grow the inspectors send you a "Z Form" that tells you how much more to pay. So if you were working on a project that had 5 new circuits and you filed for that, but the customer asked to add more after work started, you pay for the added circuits( $6 ea) not a whole new REI (min $40)


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## woodchuck2 (Sep 18, 2009)

You may want to check with your local POCO to see if they charge for temporary services. I just spoke with a POCO planner about a pedestal i am installing and made the remark of it temporarily powering a job site trailer until the main building was built and after that the pedestal would be permanent to power the building. They wanted to charge customer $1k for a temporary service fee. I told the planner good luck with that and we will just consider the pedestal as being permanent from the get go.


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## rrolleston (Mar 6, 2012)

woodchuck2 said:


> You may want to check with your local POCO to see if they charge for temporary services. I just spoke with a POCO planner about a pedestal i am installing and made the remark of it temporarily powering a job site trailer until the main building was built and after that the pedestal would be permanent to power the building. They wanted to charge customer $1k for a temporary service fee. I told the planner good luck with that and we will just consider the pedestal as being permanent from the get go.


Mount a meter main between two 6x6 posts with treated plywood so the plywood is right where the side of the building will be. When you are done with that wall screw the treated to the building and remove the posts or leave them there. POCO here wants a lot for temp service and more if you go over a certain time frame. Start with permenant and save.


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## kawimudslinger (Jan 29, 2010)

haha you guys build some weird temp. services in the states.

Here in PEI, and we should be close to New Brunswick in how we build these, use a:

6x6x16' or 3-2x6x16' nailed together. Make sure you have 4 2x4 supports in all 4 directions. Use a ground plate, 60a meter with pvc going up to the FE. And atleast 2 GFCI plugs, we always use 20A. 

It's not rocket science. I heard of some not getting passed because the guys forgot to check if there were breakers in the panel haha, three and not 4 supports and non-gfci plugs.


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## woodchuck2 (Sep 18, 2009)

rrolleston said:


> Mount a meter main between two 6x6 posts with treated plywood so the plywood is right where the side of the building will be. When you are done with that wall screw the treated to the building and remove the posts or leave them there. POCO here wants a lot for temp service and more if you go over a certain time frame. Start with permenant and save.


This one i built using two PT 8X8's with PT 2X6's for the platform, this is mounted in the ground about 20' from the building and about 10' from the job trailer. I will post pics tomorrow of it. I just set the pedestal today after digging up the old wire service wire. The building caught fire last April and is finally being replaced. There was never a disconnect installed so when it burned the wire burned back into the ground about 6' before i found it. The line crew and i went over the wire this morning, did some testing and they gave me the go ahead to use it. Tomorrow i go back to hang the disconnect panel and wire it in so i will take some pics.


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## rrolleston (Mar 6, 2012)

woodchuck2 said:


> This one i built using two PT 8X8's with PT 2X6's for the platform, this is mounted in the ground about 20' from the building and about 10' from the job trailer. I will post pics tomorrow of it. I just set the pedestal today after digging up the old wire service wire. The building caught fire last April and is finally being replaced. There was never a disconnect installed so when it burned the wire burned back into the ground about 6' before i found it. The line crew and i went over the wire this morning, did some testing and they gave me the go ahead to use it. Tomorrow i go back to hang the disconnect panel and wire it in so i will take some pics.


I use 6x6 with no trouble but always use schedule 80 for the whole service cable from the pole to the pedestal and expansion couplings on both ends.


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## woodchuck2 (Sep 18, 2009)

Here is a pic of the one i just installed that came into question whether it would be temporary or permanent. I pushed for it to be permanent although until the new structure is built it will only be temporarily powering a jobsite trailer. When the new structure is finished this pedestal will permanently be powering the structure. I built it to last as you can tell. I was going to use 2X10's but i was afraid of warpage.


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## kawimudslinger (Jan 29, 2010)

Nice temp...but WAY overkill.


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## Theriot (Aug 27, 2011)

woodchuck2 said:


> Here is a pic of the one i just installed that came into question whether it would be temporary or permanent. I pushed for it to be permanent although until the new structure is built it will only be temporarily powering a jobsite trailer. When the new structure is finished this pedestal will permanently be powering the structure. I built it to last as you can tell. I was going to use 2X10's but i was afraid of warpage.


What brand meter pan is that? Was there a knock out on the top are did you cut it out.


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## woodchuck2 (Sep 18, 2009)

If i remember correctly the meter socket is Milbank. I ended up calling my inspector to see if he would allow me to cut out in the top of the box. I have done it in the past with residential sockets with no issue but i was unsure with this but he gave me the go ahead. The dis-connect was the only one i could get from my supplier and i was not happy with it. The thing is over 3' long and i did not need that many circuits. If i were to go with the lower knockout in the socket and keep the panels even i would have had all the wires coming in to the side of the buss and then loop up to the breaker. If i had lowered the dis-connect so the top was even with the lower knockout of the socket then the dis-connect would have been only mere inches off the ground. I also cut out the entry in the dis-connect also as it only had knockouts on the lower sides and bottom. If i had some better forethought i would have kept the panels even in height, put a tray down between the two, ran the wire out the lower right side of the socket and down into the left lower side of the dis-connect and looped them back up to the breaker. Tomorrow it gets inspected and powered up.

And i know, the expansion joint will not work worth a hoot with that clamp below it. It just has to be there. The conduit goes into the ground about 3' with a sweep and there is an expansion loop there.


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## sparkymartyKY (Apr 6, 2012)

sparkymartyKY
retired railroader

For our local Habitat For Humanity, I have built three temporary poles.
They consist of two 4x4 10' treated poles, half-lapped in the middle to make it a total of 18' or so, tall.

Two 3 foot lengths of channel iron with three-eights through bolts across the joint strengthen it.

Four half-inch carriage bolts hold the half-lap joint together.

The pole is placed in a two foot deep hole and is braced with two long 2x4s.

3/2 SE feeds down to the meter base which is nippled into a C-H loadcenter.
Four 20A breakers each feed a GFCI recept. w/bubble cover.

#4 bare copper goes to two ground rods.

The boss wanted 'MORE POWER!'

The AHJ and POCO are fine with this design.

We move these from job to job as needed.

-Marty












the AHJ and POCO are fine with this design


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