# Watt Stopper HELP!!



## Meadow (Jan 14, 2011)

Best piece of advice would be simply install new ones from a different manufacturer. If your having that much trouble with them chances are they are deffective to begin with.


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## farlsincharge (Dec 31, 2010)

I have always had good luck with wattstopper and have used them in situations exactly as you describe. Sorry, I can't be of more help but I just don't want you to be too hasty in tearing them out.

Have you made any adjustments to the sensor sensitivity levels?


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

I just wondered if anyone else has come across problem with these because of a high room temperature in the with the sensor.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

farlsincharge said:


> I have always had good luck with wattstopper and have used them in situations exactly as you describe. Sorry, I can't be of more help but I just don't want you to be too hasty in tearing them out.
> 
> Have you made any adjustments to the sensor sensitivity levels?


Your the guy I was looking for

I don't want to take them out. Ever had any issues with them being to close to light's in the room?

I have messed with the settings, If I leave them on test mode they work great..The cust wants them to remain on for 30 mins. seems the longer I leave them to stay on, the more problems I have getting them to turn off.


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## gardiner (Sep 25, 2007)

We did a project about a year ago with Watt Stoppers where some developed the same type of problem after a couple of months in each case the areas they were in had extremely high humidity. Could be your having the same problem.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Voltech said:


> I didnt install these and they have only been in for about 3 months. the EC that installed them are now out of business.
> 
> These are_ WattStopper’s DT-200 Series Dual Technology
> Ceiling Sensors combine PIR and ultrasonic
> ...



If you remove power and then re-power them with no change in performance, call the customer service number, they might send you some new ones. Someone could have wet them or something.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

farlsincharge said:


> I have always had good luck with wattstopper and have used them in situations exactly as you describe. Sorry, I can't be of more help but I just don't want you to be too hasty in tearing them out.
> 
> Have you made any adjustments to the sensor sensitivity levels?


I have adjusted the the turn setting in the unit and have turned off the ultrasonic part of them off.

Maybe I need to turn the PIP off and use only the ultrasonic sensor on. I have also turned off the auto part as well


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

I have not talked to anyone who has installed these or anything like it. The ones that do always say, " Are those things that you have to wire a little box with them too.


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

gardiner said:


> We did a project about a year ago with Watt Stoppers where some developed the same type of problem after a couple of months in each case the areas they were in had extremely high humidity. Could be your having the same problem.


Nice I have never delt with these before and this is top of my list of reasons.

DDo you think the issue was from the moisture from the humidity or just the heat and room temp. They have some in the shower houses that work flawlessly, but those rooms have some air movement that keeps those room a bit cooler


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## gardiner (Sep 25, 2007)

Voltech said:


> DDo you think the issue was from the moisture from the humidity or just the heat and room temp. They have some in the shower houses that work flawlessly, but those rooms have some air movement that keeps those room a bit cooler[/QUOTE
> 
> There might of been a lot of heat involved, I am not sure I only got the report back that this occurred and was not the electrician that dealt with it. But then it was in the southern states during the summer so it might have been heat and humidity.


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

are you using the switch replacement with the push button on / off switch and os? 

i had a problem once with the ceiling mounted os throwing of the os in the combo switch so i wired it to another zone .


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

jhall.sparky said:


> are you using the switch replacement with the push button on / off switch and os?
> 
> i had a problem once with the ceiling mounted os throwing of the os in the combo switch so i wired it to another zone .



No, no switch, just the OS


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## Mike_586 (Mar 24, 2009)

Personally, when I run into issues with a product like that, one that I've never really used before, my first step is to get a copy of the literature or make a call to the manufacturer.

Sometimes the answer is something I'd have figured out on my own without much trouble, but a lot of times I've found that there are undocumented shortcomings or features that the tech/engineer informs me of that totally saves my bacon and lets me give the client a solid and intelligent answer why they are having issues with the system and how it can be solved.

One thing that I'll mention, is be as accurate as possible with the guy you're dealing with about every detail possible, from the model number, voltage, the environment the sensors are in, how they are arranged, etc. The more accurate information the better, it often makes a huge difference.

I don't know how many times I've heard "Oh wait a minute! Are you talking about Rev 1.c of model ###.###.#?...."


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

Voltech said:


> I just wondered if anyone else has come across problem with these because of a high room temperature in the with the sensor.


 
the pir is not a problem as the temp scale top end is around 150*f........

how do you have them wired to the contactor panel? are the running on the DC side ?


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

jhall.sparky said:


> the pir is not a problem as the temp scale top end is around 150*f........
> 
> how do you have them wired to the contactor panel? are the running on the DC side ?


Im not using a contactor, or what I would call a contactor. They are wired as follows,Im not using the line switch option


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## Voltech (Nov 30, 2009)

Mike_586 said:


> Personally, when I run into issues with a product like that, one that I've never really used before, my first step is to get a copy of the literature or make a call to the manufacturer.
> 
> Sometimes the answer is something I'd have figured out on my own without much trouble, but a lot of times I've found that there are undocumented shortcomings or features that the tech/engineer informs me of that totally saves my bacon and lets me give the client a solid and intelligent answer why they are having issues with the system and how it can be solved.
> 
> ...


Yeah that Was the 1st thing I did, I have all the docs that wattstopper provides for this model (online) I would have called them but they are only open M-F


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

jumper the call control and check the power pack voltage make sure its not acting up.

also test the continuity of the control with a piece of tape covering the sensor pick ups if its stuck itll show up here.


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## sparky105 (Sep 29, 2009)

I had a power pack acting up and it caused the os to not time out so it stayed on. It was a loose connection in a splice. They have a warm up time similer to a photo eye but longer it is in the literature so when the connection arced it would reset the unit it never got out of the warm up mode. Also there was an issue with air movement moving window blinds and we think another issue was a flag outside a window activating one. They are a real royal pain. try the setting on walk through it will stay on for the setpoint. but if it doesn't sense any movement within the first couple onf minutes it will turn off quicker.


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## CanadianSparky (May 10, 2011)

sparky105 said:


> and we think another issue was a flag outside a window activating one. They are a real royal pain.


Where did you find one that works through windows? All the units I have ever installed do not work through windows?


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## sparky105 (Sep 29, 2009)

I don't know if that was it or not but it would act up now and again and so we moved it to a wall that was not facing the window. there was a huge flag outside and that was all we could think of. No more issue. I hate the f'n things


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## CanadianSparky (May 10, 2011)

i don't mind installing them actually haha. I've done a few "energy saving program" installs where hydro gives the commercial customer a kick back for installing the systems in there work place. The reason I asked about the window is because I have done installs where the offices walls are glass and they don't work from outside the wall and also I have done another where the office has glass dividers between a bunch of the cubicles so it was a bit of a pain to place them all where they would activate properly. I used more sensors than I should of on that job just because of the glass dividers


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## sparky105 (Sep 29, 2009)

I have a customer with 9 floors of these things and they are a royal pain. It's hooked to a Cooper light system and It is so glitchy it dives me around the bend. The worst part is trouble shooting during working office hours people moving around and all. I now just take the whole loop out and go to the pnl room and wire them into the pnl to find the problem unit. It isn't hard to find issues after hours but they hate paying premium time to fix their crap


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

CanadianSparky said:


> Where did you find one that works through windows? All the units I have ever installed do not work through windows?


 
you are correct .



:thumbsup:


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