# Oscillating Multi-tool, worth getting?



## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

What hand tools do you have? a good set of bits for that drill might be in order if you already have a full set of tools. 

No, an Oscillating tool will cut conduit, but you will be replacing fairly expensive blades that won't do as good a job as a sawzall type reciprocating saw. 
If you have a Drill, you will find an impact driver is much better on battery life and easier to start screws with.


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## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

Oh, and if you have a dollar store tape measure, throw it forcefully on the ground and get a good stiff one with magnets on the end. I've been known to smash apprentices tape measures when they use those cheap ones.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

You have tools you use all the time and tools that are great when you need them. A oscillating tool and a battery grinder are great tools to own (Oscillating when you can not make sparks and grinder when it doesn't matter) but they are not tools you will use every day. 

Look at the tools the other guys have and that is basically what you require until you get to that point in life where you can afford to buy toys.


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## Dan the electricman (Jan 2, 2011)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Oh, and if you have a dollar store tape measure, throw it forcefully on the ground and get a good stiff one with magnets on the end. I've been known to smash apprentices tape measures when they use those cheap ones.


First, smashing someone else's tools is REALLY stupid, unless *you* are supplying the replacement. If you'd done that to me, I'd have smashed your face.

Second, oscillating tools are very useful in residential work, but less so in commercial, and industrial. I think a reciprocating saw is better.


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## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

:smile: Well Dan, you think you would have. But to ease your temper, I did :vs_laugh:


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Next to my drill and impact, the multi-tool is my most used power tool.

It is by far one of the best investments a service guy could make. Say it doesn't work out, your not out much and then you can use it at home!


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

A portable band saw would be the best thing to cut EMT. I'm purchasing the Milwaukee M12 bandsaw as my next tool purchase. It'll cut up to 1 5/8" material. Perfect for smaller sizes of EMT and unistrut.

I own an oscillating tool and only use it for certain things. And I'm sure as heck not putting a 50 dollar blade on it.

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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Fein Mult-Masters are too expensive for apprentices.

They will bail you out of seemingly impossible situations, but they are not a production-oriented tool.

They chew through blades at an astounding rate... and the blades are not cheap.

You want:

1) Impact-Driver -- you will use it virtually every day -- typically all day long.

2) Great tool sacks -- these are where apprentices screw up -- they try and economize on them. For the longest time, you'll be wearing them eight-hours a day.

3) Boots -- these are where apprentices screw up -- get boots that you love. For some firms, you're restricted to steel-toed boots. Keep your boots in good repair.

Some guys find the imports perfectly fine. Let your feet be the judge. You may find that you need in-sole support, I sure do.

Canadian made, American made, boots are by far the most expensive. They also last, and last, and last... some for decades. The high end boys will custom fabricate boots to your own feet. This stuff is too expensive for apprentices, but is something that you can make an X-mass present of them to yourself -- next year.

Red Wing & Dayton

https://www.daytonboots.com/

&&&&

To sum up: concentrate investments in gear that you'll use the Most.

Remember, vibrators are for live-action video stars.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Kevin, I get the Bosch blades. Some of them can be as much as $35-$40 for a 2 pack of blades, and they are absolutely worth it. Hands down the best blades I have found. 

That being said, switch out blades often for the material being used. Your blades will last a lot longer.


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

Switched said:


> Kevin, I get the Bosch blades. Some of them can be as much as $35-$40 for a 2 pack of blades, and they are absolutely worth it. Hands down the best blades I have found.
> 
> That being said, switch out blades often for the material being used. Your blades will last a lot longer.


You're in Cali and I'm in Ontario. USA vs Canadian pricing can vary. Next time I'm in the states I'll have to pick up some though.

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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Kevin_Essiambre said:


> You're in Cali and I'm in Ontario. USA vs Canadian pricing can vary. Next time I'm in the states I'll have to pick up some though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


Yeah... I forget that until I look at the back of a book and realize a $20 book for me is like $35 for you!


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

When you become an electrical contractor you are going to need a multitool on all sorts of jobs, not just residential. I'll show you what I mean. Look at the picture below. You can see how I left a good message to the general contractor who is about to install a sink cabinet to the wall in a corner of the new break room at my current commercial build out tenant improvement job. It's a travel agency.









I call the picture- "Of course he didn't cut the hole.." So now I'm gonna have to cut out a big section of the side of the stupid cabinet since I wasn't around when he put it in , to throw a typical macmikeman fit and threaten him with using my GD chainsaw on his cabinet work. I get the worst of assholes to bid to of anybody here I bet. Just complete shi!heads lately. I was on a good track for years, but then those guys all retired. Now it's just animals.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

ElectricianTalk said:


> What hand tools do you have? a good set of bits for that drill might be in order if you already have a full set of tools.
> 
> No, an Oscillating tool will cut conduit, but you will be replacing fairly expensive blades that won't do as good a job as a sawzall type reciprocating saw.
> If you have a Drill, you will find an impact driver is much better on battery life and easier to start screws with.


Why would an apprentice buy drill bits?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Oh, and if you have a dollar store tape measure, throw it forcefully on the ground and get a good stiff one with magnets on the end. I've been known to smash apprentices tape measures when they use those cheap ones.


What’s your problem, dude, the d!ck enlarger pills didn’t work?

He asked about a power tool, not tape measures anyway.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> When you become an electrical contractor you are going to need a multitool on all sorts of jobs, not just residential. I'll show you what I mean. Look at the picture below. You can see how I left a good message to the general contractor who is about to install a sink cabinet to the wall in a corner of the new break room at my current commercial build out tenant improvement job. It's a travel agency.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I feel your pain, mac. You put on a box extender so they have no choice. Always a challenge to stay ahead of the idiots.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> I call the picture- "Of course he didn't cut the hole.." So now I'm gonna have to cut out a big section of the side of the stupid cabinet since I wasn't around when he put it in , .


I'd have left the note too, along with an extension ring firmly attached.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

Oscillating tools are awesome, but not for cutting conduit (unless it was an installed conduit that needed to be shortened and nothing else would do). As a new apprentice, there are plenty of other tools you'll use more that are a better use of your money. Like others have said, look around at what some of the other guys are using for ideas.

If you're cutting a lot of EMT, a reciprocating saw or a band saw is what you want. Personally I have the M18 compact band saw, though many around here are partial to the M12.

I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your drill, though I would advise against investing any further in the Porter Cable platform. They don't have nearly the selection of tools that some of the other brands do, and I don't believe are as well made. Stick with Milwaukee, Makita, or *cough* DeWalt. Bosch is ok too. 

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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Lots of good advice above. As a lower priced alternative to a hacksaw you might like the Klein 88906 EMT scoring tool, not a cheap tool at $35 - $40 but sometimes it's easier to use than a hacksaw. 

I really don't mind using a hacksaw if I have a high tension hacksaw with a fresh blade, and a good place to hold it while cutting. The tubing cutter is more pocket / pouch friendly and you don't need place to hold it while you're cutting like you do with a saw.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

99cents said:


> I feel your pain, mac. You put on a box extender so they have no choice. Always a challenge to stay ahead of the idiots.




Kicking myself in ass for not doing it. But still................ :vs_mad:


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

B-Nabs said:


> Oscillating tools are awesome, but not for cutting conduit (unless it was an installed conduit that needed to be shortened and nothing else would do). As a new apprentice, there are plenty of other tools you'll use more that are a better use of your money. Like others have said, look around at what some of the other guys are using for ideas.
> 
> If you're cutting a lot of EMT, a reciprocating saw or a band saw is what you want. Personally I have the M18 compact band saw, though many around here are partial to the M12.
> 
> ...


I have been disappointed with DeWalt... lately their battery life sucks.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I am very happy with my M18 oscillating tool. I had the Rockwell Sonicrafter, but I wanted a cordless so I bought the Milwaukee M18. If I needed another one, I would just buy the $30 harbor freight corded model.


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## Ctsparky93 (Sep 17, 2016)

jelhill said:


> I have been disappointed with DeWalt... lately their battery life sucks.




I have about 8-10 batteries 20v any where from 2ah to 6ah. Some are 5 years old and only 1 has failed on me with extensive usage. 


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## Ctsparky93 (Sep 17, 2016)

Oscillating tools are very helpful when you need them. But a impact and sawzall are more important. If you do a lot of pipe a compact bandsaw is amazing. I don’t carry my sawzall since I got it. 


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I am very happy with my M18 oscillating tool. I had the Rockwell Sonicrafter, but I wanted a cordless so I bought the Milwaukee M18. If I needed another one, I would just buy the $30 harbor freight corded model.


I sprung for the Fein Multimaster, everyone was jealous, in fact evidently one was so jealous that they stole it. 

I just use Harbor Freight now. The Harbor Freight don't last that long but I kind of abuse them. I think I usually pay under $20 with the sale price / coupon etc. If I see a decent corded on sale cheap I'd buy it and see if it lasts longer. 

Side by side tests with the Fein an HF showed that although the Fein was of course better and far better made, the blade was more important. I'd take the bobo HF tool with a good fresh blade any day over the Eurodeluxe Fein with a dull junky blade. 

I think this is definitely a tool where the corded will do some things the cordless will not, it vibrates faster and it's harder to bind up the blade. I don't use it that often, and there's usually a receptacle nearby.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Ctsparky93 said:


> Oscillating tools are very helpful when you need them. But a impact and sawzall are more important. *If you do a lot of pipe a compact bandsaw is amazing. I don’t carry my sawzall since I got it. *


That's the main thing, if you do a lot of pipe work.

I have had the M12 mini bandsaw for a long time and I think it is an excellent tool. However, I don't do that much pipe, and when I do pipework I usually have the M12 Hackzall right there anyway. The Hackzall can do so many other things.

So unless you are going to be doing a lot of pipe, I think the Hackzall or small sawzall is the best bet- at least at first.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> I sprung for the Fein Multimaster, everyone was jealous, in fact evidently one was so jealous that they stole it.
> 
> I just use Harbor Freight now. The Harbor Freight don't last that long but I kind of abuse them. I think I usually pay under $20 with the sale price / coupon etc. If I see a decent corded on sale cheap I'd buy it and see if it lasts longer.
> 
> ...


The Milwaukee M18 is pretty powerful, I have never been in a situation in which I felt it was performing worse than the Rockwell Sonicrafter. The battery also lasts a long time with it. I purposely bought the M18 model because the M12 was weak and had a short battery life.

I like being able to go in and do the work without running a cord, which was often an issue. I also like being able to use it with no power, which happens a lot when changing out a panel in a plaster wall. 

So the cordless model is definitely handy for me. But for a second tool a corded model would be fine. And I wouldn't spend big money on it when the Harbor Freight one gets such good reviews. As you said, it's all about the blades.


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

AloftyElectrician said:


> Hey Ya'll
> I'm a bit new here, well very very new, like my first post. I'm also a pretty new apprentince. Been on the job for about 3 months now and was thinking it's time for my next power tool. My company does almost solely small commercial work. I already picked up what I think is my first need in a good cordless hammer drill. Got a Porter Cable compact PCC601LB. It was a good deal and I love it so far. Now I'm thinking of getting the oscillating multi-tool they make and was wondering if it was worth it. Do these things cut EMT, 1 inch is the biggest I've needed to do so far and just had to use my good ole hacksaw on them. Or is there something else I should think of getting first? Thank you all in advance.


At first I didn’t think I would ever need an oscillating (multi) tool for electrical work so I bought a cheap one at Habor Freight just in case. Didn’t take long before I ran into the need to (neatly) cut some chair molding in order to run wiremold down a wall... multi-tool worked great. I can’t think of any other saw I could have done it with without butchering the molding or the wall. Maybe a jig saw but I doubt it. I also learned that I can cut Sheetrock faster and straighter with the multi-tool. For me a saws-all or hacksaw seems better for cutting conduit. I have also use the multi-tool for all kinds of little jobs at home.


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## AloftyElectrician (Dec 16, 2018)

Wow guys, like I said I'm awfully new here, I posted this thread last night at 11pm my time and I can scarcely believe the response at 7 this morning. Thank you all so much for weighing in. The consensus I'm seeing so far is that I probably won't need a multi-tool, at least unless I start doing service or maybe remodels. Which isn't really what my company does. I do have a big ryobi sawzall 18v. But the thing is I usually leave it in the car because we move around alot and I don't usually bring anything with me that doesn't fit in my shoulder bag. Which right now is just my hand tools, compact hammer drill with some bits and my hole-saw kit. There is a crew that runs all the EMT for us, they got those badass little M12 bandsaws and they're so cool. But usually if I get to touch conduit it's because either the framers messed up one of our stubs and we need to replace it or we need to run another EMT that the other crew couldn't do at the time. 
So it's not like I'm bending pipe all day, I just wanted something that I could use to cut the occasional pipe, but would also have a bunch of other purposes to justify taking up bag space. But I may try one of those pipe scorers, they look like a good solution for right now.
Thanks again all you guys.


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

*Oscillating multi tools are great.*

Dude, you're a 3 month apprentice, unless you need it for stuff at home, let the contractor you work for buy the power tools, you just need to show up with your daily hand tools.


Oh, and if you do buy one, don't bring it in to work and use it there, it's not your responsibility to provide it.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

Wow guys, like I said I'm awfully new here, I posted this thread last night at 11pm my time and I can scarcely believe the response at 7 this morning.

It's because most of the guys here are losers and having nothing else to do.

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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

Ctsparky93 said:


> I have about 8-10 batteries 20v any where from 2ah to 6ah. Some are 5 years old and only 1 has failed on me with extensive usage.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Maybe I just need to invest in some new batteries.


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## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

99cents said:


> Why would an apprentice buy drill bits?


Not drill bits, but bits to drive or remove screws and bolts. Perhaps you refer to those as tips? Impact driver tips. Torx, security, 5/16", 3/6" etc.



99cents said:


> What’s your problem, dude, the d!ck enlarger pills didn’t work?
> 
> He asked about a power tool, not tape measures anyway.


Apparently you enjoy when an apprentice messes up a measurement, costing the boss money. Those cheap tape measures are the one thing that a lot of apprentices get first. They don't have money for a 25$ tape measure so they get the cheapest one possible.

When an apprentice is told off to go mark out all of the switch box heights on office doors, mount the boxes and straps, and each one is up to 6" different, I guess you would get frustrated too. Unless you are one of those guys who always is looking for a way to "get back at the MAN". I doubt you ever owned your own business. 

In reference to Dan's comment, on it being STUPID to smash anothers tools, I will not say that I have never done anything stupid. But it sure got the point across. 

I gave the kid my tape measure and told him that I never wanted to see him with one of less quality. Ya'll need to stop jumping to conclusions.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

splatz said:


> Lots of good advice above. As a lower priced alternative to a hacksaw you might like the Klein 88906 EMT scoring tool, not a cheap tool at $35 - $40 but sometimes it's easier to use than a hacksaw.
> 
> I really don't mind using a hacksaw if I have a high tension hacksaw with a fresh blade, and a good place to hold it while cutting. The tubing cutter is more pocket / pouch friendly and you don't need place to hold it while you're cutting like you do with a saw.


Never used one. It doesn't leave a sharp edge on the conduit?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Not drill bits, but bits to drive or remove screws and bolts. Perhaps you refer to those as tips? Impact driver tips. Torx, security, 5/16", 3/6" etc.
> 
> 
> Apparently you enjoy when an apprentice messes up a measurement, costing the boss money. Those cheap tape measures are the one thing that a lot of apprentices get first. They don't have money for a 25$ tape measure so they get the cheapest one possible.
> ...


6 inch difference? Sure, ok, yeah. :vs_laugh:


Are you going to smash me now for questioning you? :sad:


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## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

99cents, you have to cut halfway through, and then snap it right at that score. Usually you have to step on the score point or right close to it in order to snap it right. Leaves a nice rounded inside. No sharp edge at all. No need to ream unless the outside gets flared out to far for the connector.


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## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

:vs_laugh: Hack, his tape measure was bending at the tip and where ever it stopped was where he marked, mounted the box.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Not drill bits, but bits to drive or remove screws and bolts. Perhaps you refer to those as tips? Impact driver tips. Torx, security, 5/16", 3/6" etc.
> 
> 
> Apparently you enjoy when an apprentice messes up a measurement, costing the boss money. Those cheap tape measures are the one thing that a lot of apprentices get first. They don't have money for a 25$ tape measure so they get the cheapest one possible.
> ...


An inch is the same on both cheap and expensive tape measures so you make no sense. If you're concerned, get a stick and a Sharpie and draw device heights on it for the guys. Or use a laser.

To answer your question, I do run my own business. I do a walk through before drywall. You won't find a device out by an inch on my jobs. 6" is ridiculous. This is on you for very poor supervision. 

Destroying other people's tools is a crime.


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## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

Ok, you win, I'm done.


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## bostonPedro (Nov 14, 2017)

In your scenario an oscillating multi-tool is not a tool you want to get. They are great in residential but seldom used in commercial work. They are also never used to cut conduit. I actually use a jig saw( and that is once in a blue moon) more in commercial than I do a multi tool but when I do residential I have never used a jig saw but have used a multi tool typically to cut old works in plaster, sheet rock and wood baseboards. Valuable tool but not for an apprentice who is building their tool chest. Get an impact drill, a Sawzall is far more useful unless you are consistently doing small conduit work in which case a mid size bandsaw is more valuable to cut strut and small conduit. I suggest you look into a conduit reamer that attaches to a drill or impact 
like this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWA2600IR-Impact-Conduit-Reamer/dp/B00OA02UBS as a splurge item if you tend to do a lot of smaller conduit work


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Not drill bits, but bits to drive or remove screws and bolts. Perhaps you refer to those as tips? Impact driver tips. Torx, security, 5/16", 3/6" etc.
> 
> 
> Apparently you enjoy when an apprentice messes up a measurement, costing the boss money. Those cheap tape measures are the one thing that a lot of apprentices get first. They don't have money for a 25$ tape measure so they get the cheapest one possible.
> ...


We mark our outlets at 12", I like grabbing a 2x4 and cutting it at 12"....then go around and use that to make my marks.

Sounds like you need something like this to mark out your switch boxes. Just don't whack him over the head with the 45" 2x4!

Lol

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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

Get yourself an impact and a sawzall, hold off on the oscillating tool for now.

Invest in a better brand like milwaukee/makita if your going to make a career out of this. I prefer makita myself, but majority go for milwaukee.

Your going to be using these two along with your drill daily. Spend wisely and buy tools built too last!

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## bostonPedro (Nov 14, 2017)

99cents said:


> I feel your pain, mac. You put on a box extender so they have no choice. Always a challenge to stay ahead of the idiots.


I will use metal boxes with a 3/4 to 1 inch plaster ring for garbage disposal and dishwasher outlets I put in the wall under the sink to make sure they always protrude and never get buried and it also makes them look good when they are cut into the cabinet backing as they are in the wood and not set back. Great for sheetrock but they also do a lot of veneer skim coat plaster work here and a few times they have feathered it out even with wall thinking it was a mistake :vs_laugh:


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

To the OP: Stick with what you have and upgrade as money becomes available. Like someone else said, you will want to get away from Porter Cable sooner or later but, if it works for now, use it and abuse it. The three cordless tools a guy (and girls like Martine) should have are a drill, impact driver and a small reciprocating saw.

One day, you will become a tool snob like the Milwaukee fans around here. If you want to become a true elitist, you will buy Bosch.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

99cents said:


> Never used one. It doesn't leave a sharp edge on the conduit?


This one is specifically a scoring tool, there's a shoulder on the cutting blade that only allows it to go through so far, then you snap it in half - no sharp edge. 

The sharp edge you get with some similar type cutters reams off pretty quick anyway, I would use those, but some of them will squeeze the conduit a little so it's maybe 1/8" small at the end, I won't use those.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

splatz said:


> This one is specifically a scoring tool, there's a shoulder on the cutting blade that only allows it to go through so far, then you snap it in half - no sharp edge.
> 
> The sharp edge you get with some similar type cutters reams off pretty quick anyway, I would use those, but some of them will squeeze the conduit a little so it's maybe 1/8" small at the end, I won't use those.


I've got both in my bags, they come in handy when doing a swap out or repair work where wiring is installed and you can't get it out. 

I also have a small bag of various anti-short bushings that will slide right into the conduit and the connector/coupling can then slide right down and hold it in place. Probably isn't needed, but I like the extra security of it. With the wiring installed it is difficult to make sure there are zero burs all around.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

splatz said:


> This one is specifically a scoring tool, there's a shoulder on the cutting blade that only allows it to go through so far, then you snap it in half - no sharp edge.
> 
> The sharp edge you get with some similar type cutters reams off pretty quick anyway, I would use those, but some of them will squeeze the conduit a little so it's maybe 1/8" small at the end, I won't use those.


The trick is not too apply much pressure, let the tool do the work. The other key is, like you said, snapping it after it's scored.
Leaves a nice clean cut requiring no scoring.

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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

trentonmakes said:


> The trick is not too apply much pressure, let the tool do the work. The other key is, like you said, snapping it after it's scored.
> Leaves a nice clean cut requiring no scoring.


Really? I'll give it a try ... what do you do, just turn the screw less?


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

splatz said:


> Really? I'll give it a try ... what do you do, just turn the screw less?


Yep

I turn it several times...turn it maybe a 1/4 turn and go again.....

You just want to score it...maybe go 1/2 way then whack it!

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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

Switched said:


> I've got both in my bags, they come in handy when doing a swap out or repair work where wiring is installed and you can't get it out.
> 
> I also have a small bag of various anti-short bushings that will slide right into the conduit and the connector/coupling can then slide right down and hold it in place. Probably isn't needed, but I like the extra security of it. With the wiring installed it is difficult to make sure there are zero burs all around.


I carry a Lenox "close quarters" tubing cutter for times when you have to cut conduit in tight spaces, with or without wires installed. Sometimes it does leave a burr on the inside, so I also carry a deburring tool like the one in the link below.

https://www.amazon.com/Noga-Heavy-D...rring+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31jvvWqcjfL&ref=plSrch

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## Ctsparky93 (Sep 17, 2016)

There also a brand called dewalt. Which some tools work just as good or better then other manufacturers. Cough cough. 


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## paulengr (Oct 8, 2017)

I'd suggest getting away from Porter Cable for two reasons. Yes the impact and the drill are nice but Stanley just spent a ton of money on buying the Craftsman brand name. They are positioning it to be their mid level brand, right where Porter Cable sits. So it's not looking good for that brand.

Second even though the stuff is very expensive the fact is that Milwaukee caters to electricians and plumbers. They have tons of specialty tools. So if you end up needing to buy a $2500 motorized lug crimper you will already have batteries and charger to support it compared to say Bosch or Porter Cable where now you need all that stuff too for the special tool. Dewalt is a close second but they basically don't have a 12 V line except in name only and lots of holes in their 20V Max lineup. They cater more to carpenters.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Porta cable isnt a bad brand as its cheap yet takes a beating better than a dewalt. Theres also the advantage that no ones going to steal it or the battery.
Later in life when you have learnt not to abuse or misplace a tool then its time to upgrade.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Switched said:


> Kevin, I get the Bosch blades. Some of them can be as much as $35-$40 for a 2 pack of blades, and they are absolutely worth it. Hands down the best blades I have found.
> 
> That being said, switch out blades often for the material being used. Your blades will last a lot longer.


Can I ask what materials you are cutting that you use the better blades?

I use mine for cut outs in sheetrock and cabinets most often and use some damn cheap blades that really hold up well.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> Kicking myself in ass for not doing it. But still................ :vs_mad:


There is always next time!





Ctsparky93 said:


> I have about 8-10 batteries 20v any where from 2ah to 6ah. Some are 5 years old and only 1 has failed on me with extensive usage.


Your experience sounds like more the exception than the rule maybe that's just with the 20v.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Can I ask what materials you are cutting that you use the better blades?
> 
> I use mine for cut outs in sheetrock and cabinets most often and use some damn cheap blades that really hold up well.


Lath and plaster. I do a lot of rewires and the Bosch blades hold up best for them. On wood, I don't think one brand is particularly better than the other, but for lathe and plaster I prefer the Bosch. I can get away with a single blade for a whole house maybe two houses. 

This is what I use:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1...ing-Wood-and-Metal-2-Pack-OSC114C-2/204679858


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

jelhill said:


> Maybe I just need to invest in some new batteries.


Invest in better tools.

Of all my DeWalt stuff I had around the house I'm down to a 1/2" impact, sheetmetal shears, and 4" angle grinder.

Oh and a dozen batteries.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Apparently you enjoy when an apprentice messes up a measurement, costing the boss money. Those cheap tape measures are the one thing that a lot of apprentices get first. They don't have money for a 25$ tape measure so they get the cheapest one possible.
> 
> When an apprentice is told off to go mark out all of the switch box heights on office doors, mount the boxes and straps, *and each one is up to 6" different, *I guess you would get frustrated too. Unless you are one of those guys who always is looking for a way to "get back at the MAN". I doubt you ever owned your own business.



*6" different?* 

*REALLY bro?*

There is no way in hell that is because of a cheap tape measure. That's more like a moron that can't read or recall numbers.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Never used one. It doesn't leave a sharp edge on the conduit?


I haven't used the Klein but the Greenlee I bought took a flight off a roof into a drainage ditch!


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## Ctsparky93 (Sep 17, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> There is always next time!
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Yea the old 18 volt platform batteries were ****. But the new stuff is great. The only thing Milwaukee has on dewalt is their extensive tool line which is nice. But I am too invested in dewalt to change. I am thinking about getting some m12 tools tho. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ctsparky93 (Sep 17, 2016)

Switched said:


> Lath and plaster. I do a lot of rewires and the Bosch blades hold up best for them. On wood, I don't think one brand is particularly better than the other, but for lathe and plaster I prefer the Bosch. I can get away with a single blade for a whole house maybe two houses.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Have you tried any of the carbide grout removal blades they are amazing on plaster? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GLGFX3K/ref=psdcmw_8106524011_t2_B00FRMZVMI


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

ElectricianTalk said:


> :vs_laugh: Hack, his tape measure was bending at the tip and where ever it stopped was where he marked, mounted the box.


*So the guy was a complete moron and it had zero to do with the tape!*


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Ctsparky93 said:


> Have you tried any of the carbide grout removal blades they are amazing on plaster? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GLGFX3K/ref=psdcmw_8106524011_t2_B00FRMZVMI
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, but they don't seem to hold up as well, especially after they hit the steel for those old metal boxes with the steel flanges. 

I haven't had much luck with the grout removal ones on a multi-tool, but I have no issue opening up a 1G box in old ceramic tile to add a 2G or widen it out for a new 1G with the sawzall units.

How do those hold up if you hit metal?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Ctsparky93 said:


> There also a brand called dewalt. Which some tools work just as good or better then other manufacturers. Cough cough.


Individual experience will vary!


Greatly!


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I haven't used the Klein but the Greenlee I bought took a flight off a roof into a drainage ditch!


You should be more careful.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> You should be more careful.


If it was in any other state but NJ I would have just tossed it in the air and shot it!


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## paulengr (Oct 8, 2017)

MechanicalDVR said:


> If it was in any other state but NJ I would have just tossed it in the air and shot it!



Why is that a problem? That's the state where you can shoot pigeons because you are a mean ass son of a botch or just for the heck of it but you can go to jail for shooting them for pest control unless you are licensed, and the governor's chauffeur can drive 150 MPH+ but don't you get caught going 1 MPH over if you're an ordinary citizen.


It's also the state where this is the normal hunting practice...get 99 of your closest friends together. 50 of them stand side by side about 100 feet apart along a road. The other 50 go around to the other side of a wood lot and make lots of noise to drive the deer into the firing line! Deer there are smaller than dogs and they keep score on the number of spots instead of the number of points on the antlers.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

paulengr said:


> Why is that a problem? That's the state where you can shoot pigeons because you are a mean ass son of a botch or just for the heck of it but you can go to jail for shooting them for pest control unless you are licensed, and the governor's chauffeur can drive 150 MPH+ but don't you get caught going 1 MPH over if you're an ordinary citizen.
> 
> 
> It's also the state where this is the normal hunting practice...get 99 of your closest friends together. 50 of them stand side by side about 100 feet apart along a road. The other 50 go around to the other side of a wood lot and make lots of noise to drive the deer into the firing line! Deer there are smaller than dogs and they keep score on the number of spots instead of the number of points on the antlers.



I can tell two things right off from this:

1. You have no clue what NJ gun laws are like (they just had a law take effect that makes it illegal for LEOs to have a mag with a capacity over 10rds while off duty)

2. You have never hunted deer in NJ, the only small ones are the ones that eat out of garbage cans in urban areas. Average weight of bucks harvested there last year was 150#.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I can tell two things right off from this:
> 
> 1. You have no clue what NJ gun laws are like (they just had a law take effect that makes it illegal for LEOs to have a mag with a capacity over 10rds while off duty)
> 
> 2. You have never hunted deer in NJ, the only small ones are the ones that eat out of garbage cans in urban areas. Average weight of bucks harvested there last year was 150#.


The things he says are always so crazy. It's like talking to a drunk person.


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## Electrician-Guy (Dec 15, 2018)

MechanicalDVR said:


> *6" different?*
> 
> *REALLY bro?*
> 
> There is no way in hell that is because of a cheap tape measure. That's more like a moron that can't read or recall numbers.


Sigh... now I'm going to have to buy a cheap piece of junk tape measure and show what he was doing. No, He wasn't a moron, and didn't have a problem with numbers. He kept marking out right at 48" to the top. He was just green. He did turn out to be a decent electrician so not a moron, just ignorant.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Sigh... now I'm going to have to buy a cheap piece of junk tape measure and show what he was doing. No, He wasn't a moron, and didn't have a problem with numbers. He kept marking out right at 48" to the top. He was just green. He did turn out to be a decent electrician so not a moron, just ignorant.


You realize thought that throwing someones tape measure is wrong! If you did that today the young guy would have make a social media post about the travesty that is his life, and then he would have to go home to mom and dad to discuss the bullying he is getting at work.

You would likely be hauled into the police office where you would be booked on terror charges for your threatening manner, and maybe even some hate crimes charges for your bias against HF tools!

:surprise:


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

Switched said:


> I've got both in my bags, they come in handy when doing a swap out or repair work where wiring is installed and you can't get it out.
> 
> I also have a small bag of various anti-short bushings that will slide right into the conduit and the connector/coupling can then slide right down and hold it in place. Probably isn't needed, but I like the extra security of it. With the wiring installed it is difficult to make sure there are zero burs all around.


Now this proves that you are never to old to learn. I was racking my senile brain just a few weeks ago about how was a safe way to cut a piece of conduit that already had wire in it.


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

ElectricianTalk said:


> Sigh... now I'm going to have to buy a cheap piece of junk tape measure and show what he was doing. No, He wasn't a moron, and didn't have a problem with numbers. He kept marking out right at 48" to the top. He was just green. He did turn out to be a decent electrician so *not a moron, just ignorant*.


I have encountered more than my share of those in my career! You will also learn that when a guy is lazy in addition to being ignorant the screwups are doubled. :sad:


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I started with a corded Fein and it worked well, used off of ebay. Then I tried a friends M18 cordless one and I bought one not long after. The Fein went to the garage with the growing pile of corded stuff. I don't know that it was an improvement so much as convenience.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

nrp3 said:


> I started with a corded Fein and it worked well, used off of ebay. Then I tried a friends M18 cordless one and I bought one not long after. The Fein went to the garage with the growing pile of corded stuff. * I don't know that it was an improvement so much as convenience*.


Sounds like what my buddy told me about why he got married last year.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

jelhill said:


> Now this proves that you are never to old to learn. I was racking my senile brain just a few weeks ago about how was a safe way to cut a piece of conduit that already had wire in it.


If it is a larger conduit you can often sleeve a piece of smaller into it while you're cutting around it. For instance 1/2" EMT will slide right into 3/4" EMT.

The problem with the reamer though is you often don't have the room to get the reamer in there, but it is amazing what you can do with a sawzall blade and patience.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Switched said:


> If it is a larger conduit you can often sleeve a piece of smaller into it while you're cutting around it. For instance 1/2" EMT will slide right into 3/4" EMT.
> 
> The problem with the reamer though is you often don't have the room to get the reamer in there, but it is *amazing what you can do with a sawzall blade and patience*.


Small half round file that is smooth on the backside is great for this type thing.


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

Switched said:


> If it is a larger conduit you can often sleeve a piece of smaller into it while you're cutting around it. For instance 1/2" EMT will slide right into 3/4" EMT.
> 
> The problem with the reamer though is you often don't have the room to get the reamer in there, but it is amazing what you can do with a sawzall blade and patience.


How about reaming it with a dremmel or regular drill grinding point?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

jelhill said:


> How about reaming it with a dremmel or regular drill grinding point?


It's taking a chance at damaging a conductor jacket, shoot for a much easier way.


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## arkie guide (Feb 26, 2021)

Electrician-Guy said:


> Oh, and if you have a dollar store tape measure, throw it forcefully on the ground and get a good stiff one with magnets on the end. I've been known to smash apprentices tape measures when they use those cheap ones.


In my day, you smash my tape measure, we would be on the ground in a minute, the you would buy me a new one..


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

arkie guide said:


> In my day, you smash my tape measure, we would be on the ground in a minute, the you would buy me a new one..


Please take a few minutes to fill out your profile. It's required and I have left a link with instructions below.









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## SWDweller (Dec 9, 2020)

telsa said:


> Fein Mult-Masters are too expensive for apprentices.
> 
> They will bail you out of seemingly impossible situations, but they are not a production-oriented tool.
> 
> ...


I have never owned a custom set of work boots or any boot for that matter.
What I would recommend is an boot that is insulated to at least 20kv. May sound redundant but your working about people that can make mistakes. Mine were always fiberglass toes even though the place I worked for wanted steel toes. Lets see steel and your an electrical worker. DUMB dumber dumbest.
Next FR underwear and or pants and shirts. 
These are tools, tools that may help keep you alive. 

Carolina makes great boots





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