# Heavy duty 1/2 corded drills.



## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

JPRO2 said:


> What do you all prefer for big heavy half inch drills for drilling out houses we use the Makita d handles. But it will be time for a new one for the truck soon just wondering what you use ?
> 
> This is what were currently using http://www.homedepot.ca/product/makita-1-2-handle-drill/944514


We have Milwaukee 1/2" angle drills on all the vans.


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## seabee41 (Dec 21, 2010)

Milwaukee Super Hawg:thumbup:


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## socalelect (Nov 14, 2011)

milwalkee ass kicker (hole hawg) the old school one


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## nutzack (Nov 11, 2011)

I prefer the milwaukee super hawg even though it almost killed me


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

nutzack said:


> I prefer the milwaukee super hawg even though it almost killed me


I think everyone has almost been killed by one of those things. That's how you know it's a good tool.


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

socalelect said:


> milwalkee ass kicker (hole hawg) the old school one


That's the one I use when I need to make a lot of holes in a hurry. Those things are indestructible!

I also have a Milwaukee right-angle drill that is variable speed. I use it mostly for hole-saws, as the Hole Hawg is single speed and will hurt you bad if it binds up.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

nutzack said:


> I prefer the milwaukee super hawg even though it almost killed me



Same here....:thumbup::thumbup:


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

The super hog seems like a popular choice ! Are you guys using the long augers or the short 6 inch augers? . Orsomething other then a auger?


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## kbatku (Oct 18, 2011)

18" 7/8ths


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

I'm glad you started this thread because I was going to ask the same question. Thought I got a good deal on this milwaukee and returned it the next day. I need something with selectable speeds because the 7/8 Irwin in the picture would come to a stop in a few joists.











As my budget is not very large I was looking at this model:

model 5380-21 mainly for 3/4" to 1.25" short ship augers and some masonry work.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Just replaced the brushes on this badboy, seems to run like new now.


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## Arc'n'Spark (Jul 21, 2011)

zwodubber said:


> I'm glad you started this thread because I was going to ask the same question. Thought I got a good deal on this milwaukee and returned it the next day. I need something with selectable speeds because the 7/8 Irwin in the picture would come to a stop in a few joists.
> 
> As my budget is not very large I was looking at this model:
> 
> model 5380-21 mainly for 3/4" to 1.25" short ship augers and some masonry work.


Why not a right angle? As a side note I just bought one of those bits a little while ago and am now engaged to it :laughing:


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

I like the op's drill. The worst thing a drill in this category can have is a separate reverse switch. I would only consider one with forward/reverse on the trigger switch itself.

I also find the D handle type drills easier to work with than the right angle types.


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## cort16 (Nov 22, 2011)

I always use the milwaukee howl hawg , it will walk straight thru studs easily


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## Arc'n'Spark (Jul 21, 2011)

I know it's not Milwaukee, but does anyone else use this?

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/drills-12-specialty-drills-dw124.aspx#


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

zwodubber said:


> I'm glad you started this thread because I was going to ask the same question. Thought I got a good deal on this milwaukee and returned it the next day. I need something with selectable speeds because the 7/8 Irwin in the picture would come to a stop in a few joists.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Not to sure why but Milwaukee has never made a hammerdrill in this design that holds up. They die pretty fast right out of the box. Hilti or Bosch for hammer drills.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I have been in construction since I was a kid working for family and Milwaukee has always been the longest lasting from what I have seen. I have a sawzall from the 1960's that still works just fine and my cousins have circular saws and drills as old and or older that still work fine. Milwaukee has been a standard in construction for my lifetime.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

gotta yard sale Milwakee 10amp 3/4" chuck

the drill motor is about the size of a football

not much slows it down, but after roughing a few houses with it, i figured out _why_ it was @ a yard sale....

~CS~


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I have been in construction since I was a kid working for family and Milwaukee has always been the longest lasting from what I have seen. I have a sawzall from the 1960's that still works just fine and my cousins have circular saws and drills as old and or older that still work fine. Milwaukee has been a standard in construction for my lifetime.


i have a golden oldie Milwakee sawzall like this>









i figure i'll rebuild her, just because i like Milwakee

but i am curious about the age of it, being pre-red plastic and all

~CS~


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

maybe i should ask this dude...?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

chicken steve said:


> i have a golden oldie Milwakee sawzall like this>
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks just about identical to my 1967 model.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

chicken steve said:


> maybe i should ask this dude...?


 
I have seen a few of his shows and if he restored a 1960 sawzall it would probably have the same sticker price as a F150 pickyp. He likes to really profit on his restores. Ever see the $6800 fire extinguisher?


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Looks just about identical to my 1967 model.


bethcha there's still parts out there Mechdude.....

~CS~


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I have seen a few of his shows and if he restored a 1960 sawzall it would probably have the same sticker price as a F150 pickyp. He likes to really profit on his restores. Ever see the $6800 fire extinguisher?


yeah, the antique FE on wheels

the dude's got on heckova gig 


~CS~


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

chicken steve said:


> bethcha there's still parts out there Mechdude.....
> 
> ~CS~


 
More than likely, I put brushes in several years back and got a spare set at the time (right off the shelf at the dealer).


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> More than likely, I put brushes in several years back and got a spare set at the time (right off the shelf at the dealer).


bet that wouldn't be so with a '67 Makita .....

~CS~


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

chicken steve said:


> yeah, the antique FE on wheels
> 
> the dude's got on heckova gig
> 
> ...


Yup he paid $300 for it and I thought the 1 1/2" crimped copper 90s on the handrail looked pretty damn ghettofabulous.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

chicken steve said:


> bet that wouldn't be so with a '67 Makita .....
> 
> ~CS~


Or a 1997 either. I have a Makita 5" random orbit sander I use around the house, the pad blew apart. I looked it up on line and it's in stock at $38, the whole kit was $49 less than 4 years back.


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## davis9 (Mar 21, 2009)

I've beat this drill up for 5yrs plus and at about 100 bucks it has been a great value. Still have it in the truck ready for the next rough. I use 3/4 or 7/8 ship augers with it. it has 2 speeds, but I use the lower speed since it will clutch out occasionally on high. Still spins fast on low though.LOL

Tom


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

The design of the *angle drill* is far superior to the hole hawg style drill. You get 100 times better leverage to keep you from getting hurt. 1/2" drill have some serious torque. 

A lot of the drilling is done one handed. Get it started with two hands and finish it with two hands but you7 can relax and let the drill/bit do it's thing in the middle.

Milwaukee is the gold standard.


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

How do you guys like the angle drills for drilling overhead threw top plates ? How heavy are those suckers? I see the plumbers using them all the time with there big 5 inch hole hog cutters


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

JPRO2 said:


> How do you guys like the angle drills for drilling overhead threw top plates ? How heavy are those suckers? I see the plumbers using them all the time with there big 5 inch hole hog cutters


 
WIth 8' walls, they are great. 

At 6'1", I'm tall enough to get it started with a short 6" bit. A long 18" bit makes it easier. When you drill next to a stud, the stud will hold the drill in place and you can one hand it. A *good bit* will suck it up and all you have to do is give a little push or twist for that last 1/8".


And..... He threw the ball. He drilled _through_ the stud. The plumbers use _their_ drills over there.


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

Awesome thanks for the reply I'll have to look into some heavy right angle drills. I use the long augers so I should be alright


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## davis9 (Mar 21, 2009)

Use an 18" extension on an 18" auger. Makes life easier IMO.

Tom


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## crosport (Apr 4, 2010)

just can't beat a 1/2" milwaukee with the 3' long angled boom attached.No standing on ladders to drill overhead,works great for drilling down low also.Anyone use these before?


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## JSpark (Nov 25, 2011)

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWD460-2-Inch-Bind-Up-Control/dp/B001TL0BUS/ref=pd_cp_hi_2. 

I just got a couple of these so far so good anyone else use these?


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## Sencoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Those should do the trick.:thumbsup:

I was actually wondering why Dewalt hasn't tried to get some of the electrical sales back from milwaukee. They are marketing giants.

I use a Hole Hawg with a long auger, keeps me off ladders,........mostly.

Every carpenter who sees it swears their cousin/buddy broke his wrist with one.:laughing:


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## zoltan (Mar 15, 2010)

Arc'n'Spark said:


> I know it's not Milwaukee, but does anyone else use this?
> 
> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/drills-12-specialty-drills-dw124.aspx#


this is the best rough in drill IMO. way lighter than the super hawg or hole hawg, plenty of power in high, and low has a clutch for hole saws. you can get into some tight spots with the low profile head, and the longer handle gives you some pretty good leverage too.


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Not to sure why but Milwaukee has never made a hammerdrill in this design that holds up. They die pretty fast right out of the box. Hilti or Bosch for hammer drills.


Went with Bosch, so far it's gone through everything I throw at it.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

I have gotten completely away from drills and auger bits.

I use a cordless impact driver with the Irwin Speed-bor Max bits. If I need a really large hole, I use a cordless Milwaukee driver, 7/16 hex chuck, with self-feed bits.

ZBO has a picture of an ordinary drill with one of the Irwin bits. I have no problems getting them through wood. They won't cut nails... but nail damage is limited, as the bit simply stops drilling any deeper. Deep hole? Use an extension.

Impact drivers are noisy, but they do not transmit any torque to your wrist. The tool/bit combo is also short enough to fit between ordinary stud spacings.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

zwodubber said:


> I'm glad you started this thread because I was going to ask the same question. Thought I got a good deal on this milwaukee and returned it the next day. I need something with selectable speeds because the 7/8 Irwin in the picture would come to a stop in a few joists.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Dude just go buy a used hole hawg on ebay. It will be the best tool purchase you make this year. then next year get your self a nice SDS hammer drill. 2 different drills for 2 different jobs.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> Dude just go buy a used hole hawg on ebay. It will be the best tool purchase you make this year. then next year get your self a nice SDS hammer drill. 2 different drills for 2 different jobs.


 
I agree, I use three a 1/2" RAD, hole hawg for big stuff, and a Bosch bulldog.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

I use this


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## Voyager (Mar 4, 2010)

I use the Makita 1/2" right angle drill and have had very good luck with it.


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## mrmike (Dec 10, 2010)

Bought one of these bad boys 1199 vsr on ebay for $89 last year. This thing has awesome power & the reverse switch is out of the way & no stupid lock on button!

















Share your own related images 
*Factory-Reconditioned Bosch 1199VSR-RT 8.5 Amp 1/2-Inch Hammer *


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## arni19 (Nov 20, 2009)

JPRO2 said:


> What do you all prefer for big heavy half inch drills for drilling out houses we use the Makita d handles. But it will be time for a new one for the truck soon just wondering what you use ?
> 
> This is what were currently using http://www.homedepot.ca/product/makita-1-2-handle-drill/944514


Every power tool i own is milwaukee, except for this drill. Perfect design imo, not to heavy and the d handle is nice to work with. Put a 18" milwaukee auger bit ( swear by them) in it and have at er.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

Best corded 1/2 drill I ever bought was a WEN brand. It is one speed, and I got it as a disposable one, Or so I thought. That thing will not die. 
It has replaceable brushes and runs like a tank. The only bad thing about it is the placement of the hold on button.
I was drilling thru a foundation and it caught a piece or rebar. It about broke my arm as it took off. 
Luckily it grabbed the line set to my central air unit and twisted around like a pretzel. It stopped spinning and just hummed at me. LoL

That was about 20 years ago and I just saw the WEN brand at Menards the other day.

I have a Bosh 1/2 hammer drill and that works great. It's shaped like a smaller AEG and is balanced well. But I hate the keyless chuck with the dust boot. It fills with dust and jams all the time. 
My Milwaukee keyed hammer doesn't drill as quickly, but the chuck stays cleaner.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

mcclary's electrical said:


> I use this


 That's what I use most of the time and I fricken love it. Gobs of torque. Also like the longer grip than the Milwaukee hole hawg. If it is only a hole or 2, I will just use an 18v cordless, but more than that or a real auger, I switch to the rigid. I've never tried one of those super hawg things though. Bet they would be slick in older houses with thick beams for floor joists where you only have 8-12" to play.


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## wdestar (Jul 19, 2008)

If you can get your hands on an old Milwaukee 1/2 holeshooter, go for it. The best drill I ever bought.


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## SteveO. (Oct 17, 2011)

Amish Electrician said:


> I use a cordless impact driver with the Irwin Speed-bor Max bits.


Do you find the speed-bor bits last long enough to make them worth the money? I bought two sets last week and have only used them for one reno but I did the entire thing with my 18v impact and it worked great. Didn't plug the drill in once. 

On a side note, I also bought the M12 power port and 18V Milwaukee LED work light this week and love them. :thumbsup: Power port works great for keeping the iPod and iPhone running all week with the radio on and the LED work light is far brighter than the incandescent version.


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## Archania (Mar 16, 2009)

I swear by the old (pre China crap) Milwaukees, the Hole Hawg and D-handle right angle drill. Hole hawg for the big stuff and D-handle for smaller things. If I'm just going through a couple studs with romex, I'll just use a cordless drill with a 1/2" bit.
And Hilti, I don't know. I have a demo hammer that has worked well, but burned out a hammer drill from them. Probably only used the hammer drill 25 times before it died, not very good.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

wdestar said:


> If you can get your hands on an old Milwaukee 1/2 holeshooter, go for it. The best drill I ever bought.



20+ years on mine. Love it.:thumbup:
Got a nice-almost new- D handle, replaced brushes and had that going for 10 yrs. all bosch for my hammer drills and cordless stuff.:thumbsup:


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

The DeWalt DW124 that I bought almost 20 years ago has served me quite well. At the time, it was one of the only options with a clutch. A few years back, I added a Lenox 7/16" quick-connect.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

JPRO2 said:


> What do you all prefer for big heavy half inch drills for drilling out houses we use the Makita d handles. But it will be time for a new one for the truck soon just wondering what you use ?
> 
> This is what were currently using http://www.homedepot.ca/product/makita-1-2-handle-drill/944514


Whatever you get make sure it has a high RPM. The low ones will grab and have more torque than you can control. The high geared ones will bind up before they wrap you up.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

the milwaukee hole hawg is pretty much the only drill you need besides a pistol drill of course


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

Bit choices ...

First off, I use the "Speed-bor MAX." The "Speed-bor" is an ordinary spade bit, while the 'Max" has three huge spiral flutes and three cutting edges. It also has a screw-feed point.

I get lots of life out of them. About the only thing thaqt will damage them is hitting a nail. When you hit a nail, the bit bounces off, but the site of impact is dulled. So, it takes several different nail strikes to damage enough of the cutting edges to make a difference.


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## dmitchell343 (Oct 14, 2012)

In drilling top plates in a residence, a straight drive drill can be used from the floor. An angle drill would require drilling every hole off a ladder.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)




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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

dmitchell343 said:


> In drilling top plates in a residence, a straight drive drill can be used from the floor. An angle drill would require drilling every hole off a ladder.



Not when you know better.

I can drill out an entire standard 8'-ceiling spec home with a Milwaukee 1675 (like B4T's post) standing on the floor. Top plates included.


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## LARMGUY (Aug 22, 2010)

Irwin Tools.


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## BIGRED (Jan 22, 2007)

This is what I use.


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

480sparky said:


> Not when you know better.
> 
> I can drill out an entire standard 8'-ceiling spec home with a Milwaukee 1675 (like B4T's post) standing on the floor. Top plates included.


that's the de facto drill for the housing guys. has been for 30+ years.
if i did a bunch of housing, that is what i'd have. with an 18" auger,
you can drill 8' lids from the floor, and pretty much the whole house.

i have three drills on my truck.

Milwaukee super hawg, with plumbers augers and extensions,
and 18" long ships augers. a bit overkill for housing, unless you
are running 2" emt for branch circuits.... 
but it runs my tugger, and that is it's main job.

Milwaukee 1/2" hole shooter, with keyless chuck and side handle.
best all around corded drill.

the drill that replaced every drill i have, is this:
http://drills.festoolusa.com/cordless-drills/models/t-serie
have the T-18 with the right angle and eccentric accessories.

took 5 drills off the truck, haven't used anything else in about
9 months. you can chuck it up against any other battery
drill, and "arm wrestle" them. it'll spin a dewalt with a full
battery backwards with smoke coming out of the dewalt.
same with milwualkee. burns them up.

brushless motor, 3 phase. overload and low voltage protected.

$625. don't whine it's too expensive. all the crap batteries 
you have to buy for milwualkee and dewalt cost more than that.
i only needed two batteries, drilling out a kitchen for 3/4" flex.


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