# EZ Box



## halfamp (Jul 16, 2012)

Looks like a local up and coming product line for the residential market. I'm not into residential but this looks pretty slick for new stick construction MDUs etc. Plus the local midwest element is a plus. Any residential guys see any pros / cons to this stuff?






http://www.ezboxess.com/


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Are they trying to advertise that you can pull into it from the same piece that mounts in the hole? How would you clamp it?


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## halfamp (Jul 16, 2012)

I'd really like to see a better application video to address your questions, I just came across this and it looks pretty slick for a market I am not in.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Lol I like how you say "I am not in" in that sense anything can look great right? 
It seems slick though.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

It look pretty slick but I do not know what those thing will run on pricewise.

It kinda hard to say if that justify the cost for that purpose .,,,,


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I would not invest in this company if that is what you are asking....


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## mdnitedrftr (Aug 21, 2013)

I don't get it. :confused1:

They want me to install those guard things in every stud? What happens when there are multiple studs? What happens when I want to run multiple wires through the same holes without ending up at the same box?


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

Don't buy the idea that box mounts etc are a significant source of arc faults. 
Drilling the hole through the stud in exactly the right place, at a 90deg angle, 
would be a pain. 
P&L


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

IDK.. Quit coming out with stupid products attempting to make up for crappy workmanship and proper testing procedures. 

Train people to install stuff correctly... 90% of the issues are gone.

Train people how to use testing equipment, Megger the wires at rough and before trim, and the other 9.99% is gone.

The last %... Well... Materials fail! lol...

I don't see the value in it, nice novelty though.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Don't buy the idea that box mounts etc are a significant source of arc faults.
> *Drilling the hole through the stud in exactly the right place, at a 90deg angle,
> would be a pain. *
> P&L


A companion jig would be required, no doubt.

It does solve a non-problem, though. :notworthy:

It is no solution for off-angle studs. 

The mounting holes, themselves, will be expensive to install.

The multi-gang box makes absolutely no sense to me.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

telsa said:


> A companion jig would be required, no doubt.
> 
> It does solve a non-problem, though. :notworthy:
> 
> ...


Exactly... I don't see how this will save me time or money. How often does a drill bit wander a little...? Now every box in that room is at slightly different heights!


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

sbrn33 said:


> I would not invest in this company if that is what you are asking....


You're just trying to figure out how to pound spikes through it :jester: .


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## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

I drill holes in studs willy-nilly. You guys would laugh if you saw my roller coater wire from stud to stud. This would take me forever to get boxes the right height.

Hammer vertical from the floor, box on stud to top of hammer, hold in place, pull hammer, bang on box. Drill all the holes around it close enough the same height.

I do like the nail guard sleeves though.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

matt1124 said:


> I drill holes in studs willy-nilly. You guys would laugh if you saw my roller coater wire from stud to stud. This would take me forever to get boxes the right height.
> 
> Hammer vertical from the floor, box on stud to top of hammer, hold in place, pull hammer, bang on box. Drill all the holes around it close enough the same height.
> 
> I do like the nail guard sleeves though.


I was taught boxes at hammer height (yeah, everyone was provided a company hammer) and drill at your hips/waist, which is typically above a receptacle and below a switch.... Unless your freakishly tall or short.... Not that there is anything wrong with that, you just do it at your knees or head...:jester:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

With the way the boxes slide into each other with no chase between boxes seems like one feed coming in and having to feed separate switch legs going out of a 2 or 3 gang box would be close to impossible.

The new boxes are let's say $3 each, the special clamp on the stud drill press for mounting holes is $400, j/s!


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> *With the way the boxes slide into each other with no chase between boxes seems like one feed coming in and having to feed separate switch legs going out of a 2 or 3 gang box would be close to impossible.*
> 
> The new boxes are let's say $3 each, the special clamp on the stud drill press for mounting holes is $400, j/s!


You noticed that. :notworthy:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> You noticed that. :notworthy:


Sure did, it's pretty rare to have separate feeds for each individual device mounted in multigang boxes.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

It's cute, but it solves a problem I don't think exists. I think the gangability is cool.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

MechanicalDVR said:


> With the way the boxes slide into each other with no chase between boxes seems like one feed coming in and having to feed separate switch legs going out of a 2 or 3 gang box would be close to impossible.
> 
> The new boxes are let's say $3 each, the special clamp on the stud drill press for mounting holes is $400, j/s!


There is a 1/2" KO between each box.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I want to buy one of the sleeves and make a youtube video of driving a screw through it. I have told my story of the homeowner that drilled a deck screw right through 1" EMT where it went through a stud. That wouldn't have happened with a nail plate.


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

splatz said:


> I want to buy one of the sleeves and make a youtube video of driving a screw through it. I have told my story of the homeowner that drilled a deck screw right through 1" EMT where it went through a stud. That wouldn't have happened with a nail plate.


Hmmm, I was planning on metal studs with emt for my home. I assumed emt would be strong enough to protect against anything. 

Does anyone know if they make nail plates for metal studs?

As a skeptic,
I too noticed that box nails being a common cause for arcs was kind of a bull**** idea.

Do any of you normally run cable before you install boxes? That's the only way it could happen really.

When I saw the header I thought maybe this was a post about my ex-wife.

Sent from my C6725 using Tapatalk


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Flyingsod said:


> Hmmm, I was planning on metal studs with emt for my home. I assumed emt would be strong enough to protect against anything.


I do not think it would happen with a metal stud. It was a longshot in wood but evidently not long enough  

The wood stud held the screw in place perfectly while he leaned on the drill. A metal stud I don't think it could happen. 

If the pipe was just under drywall, again I don't think it could happen, the drywall would crumble rather than hold the screw in place.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

They do make nailers for metal studs 

https://www.erico.com/part.asp?part=304B2


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> I do not think it would happen with a metal stud. It was a longshot in wood but evidently not long enough
> 
> *The wood stud held the screw in place perfectly while he leaned on the drill. A metal stud I don't think it could happen. *
> 
> If the pipe was just under drywall, again I don't think it could happen, the drywall would crumble rather than hold the screw in place.


Not only did the wood stud hold the screw in place, but the threading action of the screw in the stud pushed the tip of the screw into the metal pipe enough to pierce it and get it started.


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## Jarp Habib (May 18, 2014)

Switched said:


> matt1124 said:
> 
> 
> > I drill holes in studs willy-nilly. You guys would laugh if you saw my roller coater wire from stud to stud. This would take me forever to get boxes the right height.
> ...


I'm holding my head in horror at the thought of using a random non-measuring tool (even a fairly standard company issue tool) to set box heights. Also, company hammer? Hell no. My right arm is the company hammer, the Estwing I hold in my hand would be the detachable face :-D


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

I think this product is crap personally, but I really appreciate the ability of people to think of this stuff.

That is one of the reasons I like Rack-o-Teers (sp?), they have some really cool stuff that is based on real life situations. The electrical box basically has not changed in decades, so I appreciate that these guys are trying to do something different.

Cheers

John


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Jarp Habib said:


> I'm holding my head in horror at the thought of using a random non-measuring tool (even a fairly standard company issue tool) to set box heights. Also, company hammer? Hell no. My right arm is the company hammer, the Estwing I hold in my hand would be the detachable face :-D


It is too bad you feel this way. The hammer idea sounds like a really great idea and something that really makes sense if time is a factor. I guess you could keep using your tape measure and sharpie and let the other guys run circles around you. 
Nothing wrong with changing with the times.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

See you guys are idiots, I'm gonna invest in this chit now, it'll become code just like afcis! muahahhahahahaha


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

sbrn33 said:


> It is too bad you feel this way. The hammer idea sounds like a really great idea and something that really makes sense if time is a factor. I guess you could keep using your tape measure and sharpie and let the other guys run circles around you.
> Nothing wrong with changing with the times.


I already told you to put a laser level on a milk crate. Line up the lower device holes. That way you can use any kind of box, even a 4X4 with a plaster ring, and be deadly accurate (and fast).

How is using a hammer keeping up with the times?


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

They're nothing new. I saw an "EZ Box" at Hunts Point Terminal Market back in the early 70's.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Majewski said:


> See you guys are idiots, I'm gonna invest in this chit now, it'll become code just like afcis! muahahhahahahaha


Good luck with that!


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> I already told you to put a laser level on a milk crate. Line up the lower device holes. That way you can use any kind of box, even a 4X4 with a plaster ring, and be deadly accurate (and fast).
> 
> How is using a hammer keeping up with the times?


I like the laser idea and the lower device hole is excellent. The hammer sounds too much like a stone age stick measurement.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I like the laser idea and the lower device hole is excellent. The hammer sounds too much like a stone age stick measurement.


The whole point of the hammer is that you already have it in your hand. No need to go get something, or carry it with you, or set it up. 

I always found it to be an excellent idea.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Ive always used a hammer in new construction as well. Most hammers are 13" which is imo the perfect height for receptacles. If im matching up heights in an existing house then out comes a pencil and tape measure.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> The whole point of the hammer is that you already have it in your hand. No need to go get something, or carry it with you, or set it up.
> 
> I always found it to be an excellent idea.


I get that just never really dealt with that much wood so didn't carry a hammer on me. One could use a stick for metal studs. To me a hammer is just too short for a box, 16" AFF to the bottom of a box is the lowest I've installed to the best of my memory.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Flyingsod said:


> Hmmm, I* was planning on metal studs with emt for my home*. I assumed emt would be strong enough to protect against anything.
> 
> Does anyone know if they make nail plates for metal studs?
> 
> ...


It's the _length_ of the screws that are used for thin steel studding that save you.

Excessively long screws don't help -- as the full 'purchase' of the grip is achieved right behind the sheet rock. 

Grommetted Romex or MC cable would be as safe as EMT... and are the norm for such cavities.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drspec said:


> Ive always used a hammer in new construction as well. Most hammers are 13" which is imo the perfect height for receptacles. If im matching up heights in an existing house then out comes a pencil and tape measure.


ADA minimum receptacle height is 15" so that 13" is a couple inches low. I've always used 16".


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> ADA minimum receptacle height is 15" so that 13" is a couple inches low. I've always used 16".


does that apply to residential?

I guess I better go take all of those floor receptacles and baseboard receptacles out Ive installed and put them in the wall then 

for commercial its always been 18" AFF to center


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I measured from floor up for every box once..... Once.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I get that just never really dealt with that much wood so didn't carry a hammer on me. One could use a stick for metal studs. To me a hammer is just too short for a box, 16" AFF to the bottom of a box is the lowest I've installed to the best of my memory.


Every EC should build to a standard -- so that his troops stay on message -- quality wise.

For me: all common switches: 46" AFF on center; all common receptacles 18" AFF on center; all bathroom GFCI recepts at 42" on center; etc. 

A story pole with a Sharpie (various colors, too) is a wickedly fast way for a foreman to lay out boxes. He need not even bend over.

Every EC ought to have a standard horizontal boring height, too. for light steel studding that ought to be 24" AFF -- which is where the industry places the first factory penetration.

I have the classic mechanically advantaged tin puncher mounted with a stirrup strap to a stick of narrow strut rail -- set for 24" AFF. Since I'm working off of concrete rough floors, that's all that I need.

The advantage of punching the occasional hole -- to establish a perfect line -- is the optional (occasional) use of EMT -- and, of course, very rapid MC/ Romex pulls.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drspec said:


> does that apply to residential?
> 
> I guess I better go take all of those floor receptacles and baseboard receptacles out Ive installed and put them in the wall then
> 
> for commercial its always been 18" AFF to center


ADA is universal to the best of my knowledge.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> ADA is universal to the best of my knowledge.


_ADA applies to public accommodations. Examples of public accommodations are hotel rooms, restaurants, convention centers, convenience stores and government-owned housing like university dorm rooms. Thus, while the ADA – signed into law in 1990 – applies to multifamily properties, it does not apply to the dwelling units. All areas of public accommodation must be fully accessible. Public areas at a multifamily property include the rental office. A community room might fall under ADA if it is available to more than the residents and their guests (i.e. used for town meetings or leased out)_


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drspec said:


> _ADA applies to public accommodations. Examples of public accommodations are hotel rooms, restaurants, convention centers, convenience stores and government-owned housing like university dorm rooms. Thus, while the ADA – signed into law in 1990 – applies to multifamily properties, it does not apply to the dwelling units. All areas of public accommodation must be fully accessible. Public areas at a multifamily property include the rental office. A community room might fall under ADA if it is available to more than the residents and their guests (i.e. used for town meetings or leased out)_


Thanks for that. Resi has never been my bread and butter.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> The whole point of the hammer is that you already have it in your hand. No need to go get something, or carry it with you, or set it up.
> 
> I always found it to be an excellent idea.


I leave my hammer in my bag unless I need it. Boxes go on with screws. That's what an impact driver is for.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

99cents said:


> I leave my hammer in my bag unless I need it. Boxes go on with screws. That's what an impact driver is for.


This is how I role too. Impact is with me all the time, hammer is not. Screws can be altered easier. For me, I am more efficient with that method.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Majewski said:


> This is how I role too. Impact is with me all the time, hammer is not. Screws can be altered easier. For me, I am more efficient with that method.


Every 70's era house I go into, the device boxes were banged in with nails and they're all loose.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

Ya I hate nailed on boxes.

When I did resi we used to cut a thin piece of wood (like 1" x 2") to whatever height we were told. I seem to remember it was often 16" to centre (so the piece was cut at 14 1/2").

Nowadays (commercial work) I mount my receptacles at the height set out in the job specifications. And if there is no spec, I demand the consultant provide one, so there won't be any quibbling or complaints later. I like such things laid out in writing so there's no debate.

It is common for receptacles to be speced at 12" to centre here, though I have certainly seen higher, particularly obviously if universal access is a consideration.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

99cents said:


> Every 70's era house I go into, the device boxes were banged in with nails and they're all loose.


That can be a godsend when doing old work. It's easier for me to pry em out and let em fall so I can do my thaaaang and fit in a new box.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

B-Nabs said:


> Ya I hate nailed on boxes.
> 
> When I did resi we used to cut a thin piece of wood (like 1" x 2") to whatever height we were told. I seem to remember it was often 16" to centre (so the piece was cut at 14 1/2").
> 
> ...


Smart man, easier to ask and do it once than assume and do it over for free.

12" damn, I'd hate to trim those out.


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## U Mirin? (May 19, 2015)

drspec said:


> _ADA applies to public accommodations. Examples of public accommodations are hotel rooms, restaurants, convention centers, convenience stores and government-owned housing like university dorm rooms. Thus, while the ADA – signed into law in 1990 – applies to multifamily properties, it does not apply to the dwelling units. All areas of public accommodation must be fully accessible. Public areas at a multifamily property include the rental office. A community room might fall under ADA if it is available to more than the residents and their guests (i.e. used for town meetings or leased out)_


According to HUD it's 15 inches. Looks like center of the bottom receptacle is where they measure from. 










And according to ADA 308.2.1 a forward unobstructed lower reach is not to be less than 15 inches from finished floor










Seeing how my mom is in a wheelchair, I'd probably go with that unless customer needed something specific, but then again, I don't do residential and I'm only a dumb apprentice


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

U Mirin? said:


> According to HUD it's 15 inches. Looks like center of the bottom receptacle is where they measure from.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've always liked 16" AFF, I maybe in a wheel chair one day and respect those with a disability.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

Special accommodations are ruining the world. If a handicapped person can't reach a receptacle, that's their fault for being in a wheelchair.


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## mdnitedrftr (Aug 21, 2013)

What does AFF mean?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

mdnitedrftr said:


> What does AFF mean?


Above Finished Floor


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## mdnitedrftr (Aug 21, 2013)

Ahh, makes sense. You youngins and your jazzy lingo....


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

RePhase277 said:


> Special accommodations are ruining the world. If a handicapped person can't reach a receptacle, that's their fault for being in a wheelchair.


I'm sensitive to their issues because my spine is bolted together on the 5 lowest levels. 

Paying some lazy bastard with 6 illegitimate kids to sit on a couch while playing on their free cellphone is a special accommodation, not being handicapped.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

Hey mech, wouldn't 24" be easier if you were seated in a wheelchair? You wouldn't have to necessarily bend forward and down to reach. 

My motivation is a little (mostly) selfish, 18" is low enough, any lower and it's more of a pita to install. 

Maybe we can settle at 36" for everything, switches and receptacles??


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drewsserviceco said:


> Hey mech, wouldn't 24" be easier if you were seated in a wheelchair? You wouldn't have to necessarily bend forward and down to reach.
> 
> My motivation is a little (mostly) selfish, 18" is low enough, any lower and it's more of a pita to install.
> 
> Maybe we can settle at 36" for everything, switches and receptacles??


I've worked in some assisted living complexes that used 24" for receptacles and 42" for everything else.

When I read 12" on here my knees felt the pain.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I'm sensitive to their issues because my spine is bolted together on the 5 lowest levels.
> 
> Paying some lazy bastard with 6 illegitimate kids to sit on a couch while playing on their free cellphone is a special accommodation, not being handicapped.


So.... uh... you... uh.... got any prescription med you want to trade? I'll give you 6 blues for 4 pinks.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

drewsserviceco said:


> Maybe we can settle at 36" for everything, switches and receptacles??



I say we just drop SO cord from the ceiling to the floor. That way you can reach them no matter what.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drewsserviceco said:


> Hey mech, wouldn't 24" be easier if you were seated in a wheelchair? You wouldn't have to necessarily bend forward and down to reach.
> 
> My motivation is a little (mostly) selfish, 18" is low enough, any lower and it's more of a pita to install.
> 
> Maybe we can settle at 36" for everything, switches and receptacles??


This was in a movie, the guy wanted all outlets installed up high so you don't have to bend over. It's a good idea!

I also agree about putting outlets high so they are easier to work on. I like to be able to work on them comfortably from a 5 gallon bucket.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

RePhase277 said:


> So.... uh... you... uh.... got any prescription med you want to trade? I'll give you 6 blues for 4 pinks.


After taking 90 roxicets a week for a number of years they killed me via complete kidney failure. I was revived and have not taken any pain meds since.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> This was in a movie, the guy wanted all outlets installed up high so you don't have to bend over. It's a good idea!
> 
> I also agree about putting outlets high so they are easier to work on. *I like to be able to work on them comfortably from a 5 gallon bucket.*


We need a ergonomic code!


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

MechanicalDVR said:


> After taking 90 roxicets a week for a number of years they killed me via complete kidney failure. I was revived and have not taken any pain meds since.


So.... uh.... you.... uh... probably have a lot just sitting around...


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I've always liked 16" AFF, I maybe in a wheel chair one day and respect those with a disability.


If you shoot for 16" and miss a tad, you're still way within the 15" ADA number.

THAT'S why 16" is the commercial norm, here abouts.

Ditto why we shoot for 46" AFF. 

You're assured of being ADA compliant.

It also means, in commercial builds, that the rockers will have their seam right above your mud ring.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

RePhase277 said:


> So.... uh.... you.... uh... probably have a lot just sitting around...


Flushed them, almost a full script.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> If you shoot for 16" and miss a tad, you're still way within the 15" ADA number.
> 
> THAT'S why 16" is the commercial norm, here abouts.
> 
> ...


At 46" they only cover half your box rather than the entire thing.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

HackWork said:


> This was in a movie, the guy wanted all outlets installed up high so you don't have to bend over. It's a good idea!
> 
> 
> 
> I also agree about putting outlets high so they are easier to work on. I like to be able to work on them comfortably from a 5 gallon bucket.



My first house I remodeled I put receptacles at 22" but I still like switches at 54" which is old school, I know. Was a dream trimming out the receptacles at that height.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> We need a ergonomic code!


The WHOLE idea of LOW receptacles goes back to the beginnings of our trade.

ALL work started out as retro-fit receptacles... ALL lights were by fixture... free standing stuff.

W a-a-a-a-y back in the day, extension cords were commonly used as improvised field wiring. 

The public (commonly) would tap a base-board receptacle and bring a multi-headed extension cord up onto their kitchen counter.

This sequence was how defective toasters, etc. burned down buildings.

BUT.

Today, few want _really low_ receptacles. ( Way back when, you'd be astonished as to how low they were set. )

They make NO SENSE for most... not when you really think about it.

They are a tradition -- from the era when base-board receptacles were the norm.

And that is all.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

telsa said:


> If you shoot for 16" and miss a tad, you're still way within the 15" ADA number.
> 
> THAT'S why 16" is the commercial norm, here abouts.
> 
> ...



I've never seen belly seams on commercial jobs in S.E. PA. Always see the rock installed with vertical seams. Maybe it all the drop ceilings? It there were more hard lids, maybe they would go horizontal??


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drewsserviceco said:


> I've never seen belly seams on commercial jobs in S.E. PA. Always see the rock installed with vertical seams. Maybe it all the drop ceilings? It there were more hard lids, maybe they would go horizontal??


They typically stand boards up in commercial while railroading them in resi.

ETA: At least around here.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drewsserviceco said:


> I've never seen belly seams on commercial jobs in S.E. PA. Always see the rock installed with vertical seams. Maybe it all the drop ceilings? It there were more hard lids, maybe they would go horizontal??


Sheetrock is normally railroaded to keep the joints below eyeline and not to have vertical joints on one stud.

Normally only seen the rock vertical when it's a second course over horizontal first course or with steel framing.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> After taking *90 roxicets* a week for a number of years they killed me via complete kidney failure. I was revived and have not taken any pain meds since.


Holy cow !


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> They typically stand boards up in commercial while railroading them in resi.
> 
> ETA: At least around here.


In commercial with steel studs.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

drewsserviceco said:


> I've never seen belly seams on commercial jobs in S.E. PA. Always see the rock installed with vertical seams. Maybe it all the drop ceilings? It there were more hard lids, maybe they would go horizontal??


In California, commercial, ALL seams are horizontal.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> The WHOLE idea of LOW receptacles goes back to the beginnings of our trade.
> 
> ALL work started out as retro-fit receptacles... ALL lights were by fixture... free standing stuff.
> 
> ...


A big part of the work when I was a kid was rewiring to add grounded outlets, I've spent plenty of time on the floor changing out baseboard receptacle wiring.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> Holy cow !


It took time but they completely stopped my kidney function.


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## icdubois (Nov 16, 2013)

In my area its 18" to center for receps and 48" to center for switches, and rock is vertical.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Drilling the hole through the stud in exactly the right place, at a 90deg angle,
> would be a pain.
> P&L


Don't worry, you can just buy their patented 90 degree hole maker for a perfect fit every time...


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

icdubois said:


> In my area its 18" to center for receps and 48" to center for switches, and rock is vertical.


I have done a ton of new homes. Pretty rare when the rock is not horizontal. In fact the only time I have ever seen vertical rock was DIY projects.


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## U Mirin? (May 19, 2015)

RePhase277 said:


> Special accommodations are ruining the world. If a handicapped person can't reach a receptacle, that's their fault for being in a wheelchair.


I'll be sure to remind my mom that it's her fault for having multiple sclerosis and then notify the M.S. Society that the previously unknown cause of M.S. is now known.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

U Mirin? said:


> I'll be sure to remind my mom that it's her fault for having multiple sclerosis and then notify the M.S. Society that the previously unknown cause of M.S. is now known.


Yes, do that.


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