# UniBit



## kev900 (Jan 26, 2011)

Was lookin at buying a unibit and I am wondering which brand had a decent one? any input would be helpful, Thanks.


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## arni19 (Nov 20, 2009)

Greenlee


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## SparkYZ (Jan 20, 2010)

Lennox


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

Dottie makes unibits with replacement tips. I recommend them, otherwise once the tip wears the bit is junk. Saves a lot of money on replacement.

-John


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## freeagnt54 (Aug 6, 2008)

I've only ever tried the greenlee uni bits but they seem good.

A tip I learned for making your bits and hole saws last longer is to keep the shavings from turning black, as soon as you see them changing colors stop and let it cool a second before you start drilling again.


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

greenlee, and lots of oil


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

Make a pilot hole and your unibit will last a lot longer. Also use the proper speed on your drill and lube if necessary. Spend the money on a decent brand. Only use the unibits from Harbor Freight if all that you are going to be drilling s plastic.


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## buzzbar (Mar 19, 2011)

Resist the urge to drill at the fastest speed possible, especially with stainless steel.


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

The Irwin unibits are pretty decent too for the price. The most important part is the Lenox cutting oil. I've used many different types, and this one has been the best.


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

keep them away from ss especially ss316 that will scrap them very fast


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

oliquir said:


> keep them away from ss especially ss316 that will scrap them very fast


I'm pretty sure they make one just for stainless steal....:thumbsup:


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Harbor Freight. :thumbsup:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

knowshorts said:


> Make a pilot hole and your unibit will last a lot longer.


What is the point of having a unibit then?


I have great luck with either Lenox or Greenlee in my opinion the real key is keeping them cool. I use anything I have to make that happen.

I had to make 70 1/2" KOs in a trough one after another and I kept a cup of snow beside me to cool the bit after each hole.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Peter D said:


> Harbor Freight. :thumbsup:


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

BBQ said:


> What is the point of having a unibit then?
> 
> I have great luck with either Lenox or Greenlee in my opinion the real key is keeping them cool. I use anything I have to make that happen.
> 
> I had to make 70 1/2" KOs in a trough one after another and I kept a cup of snow beside me to cool the bit after each hole.


I use mine to enlarge holes, not create them. I still use by unibits almost daily, but for a bunch of holes, I'm starting to favor the new Ideal T.K.O.s.


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

He only uses them on blue boxes, so it's ok.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> What is the point of having a unibit then?
> ...........












:whistling2:

----------------------------------------------------


I've used Lenox's VB-1 and VB-12 for years.




















The VB-12 has thicker areas at 7/8 and 1-1/8 for trade size connectors, plus goes to 1-3/8" for 1" stuff.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

480sparky said:


> :whistling2:


Yes, and?


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

BBQ said:


> Yes, and?


He just has to be a tool, don'tcha know?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> Yes, and?


................it's .........a............unibit.......................

and.................

..........you........... need..............a................starter..............hole........


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

480sparky said:


> ................it's .........a............unibit.......................
> 
> and.................
> 
> ..........you........... need..............a................starter..............hole........


Likely why I have never bought one of those but does nothing to answer the question of mine you quoted. Tool off.:laughing:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Peter D said:


> He just has to be a tool, don'tcha know?


He has been good lately, he must be itching for some tooling by now.:laughing:


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

BBQ said:


> ...In my opinion the real key is keeping them cool....


 For all the talk about how to properly drill different metals and use different bits, I think that's pretty much the universal solution.

I've cut a 3" hole through 1" steel with a holesaw by keeping it saturated with cutting fluid. 

Same thing with drilling stainless with a unibit. If the coolant starts steaming off, it's getting too hot, spray more. Works every time.

-John


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> Likely why I have never bought one of those but does nothing to answer the question of mine you quoted. Tool off.:laughing:



Well, git yesself a video camera, chuck one of those puppies up in your cordless, and let's see how long it takes you to drill a hole.:whistling2:


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

BBQ said:


> What is the point of having a unibit then?
> 
> 
> I have great luck with either Lenox or Greenlee in my opinion the real key is keeping them cool. I use anything I have to make that happen.
> ...


What, no C frame KO punch?


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Greenlee makes a freaking awesome unibit. It is the only brand we buy now.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

tkb said:


> What, no C frame KO punch?


I would have beat a guy with a c frame.

I had the trough on the ground, had it been up on a wall the story would be different.

I put a new 7/8" unibit in a holehog and put my full weight into it, almost stalling the hole hog. The steel would peal off in just one or two large strips each smoking hot. Each hole was under 5 seconds.

But ....... my work boot soles were loaded with shavings melted into them.:jester:


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

BBQ said:


> I would have beat a guy with a c frame.
> 
> I had the trough on the ground, had it been up on a wall the story would be different.
> 
> ...


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## electric mike (Jun 15, 2009)

BBQ said:


> I put a new 7/8" unibit in a holehog and put my full weight into it, almost stalling the hole hog. The steel would peal off in just one or two large strips each smoking hot. Each hole was under 5 seconds.:jester:


 
when tools get abused like that, you can only hope the shop is paying for them :laughing:


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Chinese*

What about those chinese ones they have a t flea markets for $20 ? 

Actually, I've have great luck with the greenlee ones.


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## airfieldsparky (Jun 10, 2011)

I like the greenlee ones, although I just picked up a lennox set of them pretty cheap they seem to drill faster, but we will see how long it lasts. As far as starting the hole I like to keep a couple of those little 1/2" no. 10 zip screws in my pouch, does a killer job for starting the hole rather then burning through all the small drillbits in your kit starting holes. Zip screw, unibit and a k.o set and your good to go.


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## walkerj (May 13, 2007)

Always drill a 1/4" pilot hole. 
Step bits walk too easily.

Sent by my thumbs.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

walkerj said:


> Always drill a 1/4" pilot hole.
> Step bits walk too easily.
> 
> Sent by my thumbs.


Try using a center punch, I dont have that problem with step bits when I do that.


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## catfishjack (Sep 4, 2011)

get a lennox and don't get attached to it


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## LARMGUY (Aug 22, 2010)

catfishjack said:


> get a lennox and don't get attached to it


Especially when it hangs in a metal top plate and the torque loosens the chuck. Goodbye bit. Two of the best decisions I ever made was buying high quality drill bits and a Drill Doctor.


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## mikeh32 (Feb 16, 2009)

chewy said:


> Try using a center punch, I dont have that problem with step bits when I do that.


I use an automatic center punch


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## freeagnt54 (Aug 6, 2008)

I just looked up the price of my greenlee unibit and it costs about 3 times as much as I thought it did.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

electric mike said:


> when tools get abused like that, you can only hope the shop is paying for them :laughing:


Both tools came out like new so I have no idea what you mean.


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## Sawdust454 (Sep 26, 2008)

Actually very happy with these from automation direct.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...tional_size/High_Speed_Steel_(HSS)_TiN_Coated

They have a coating on them and I can cut several holes and the bit does not get hot.


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## bduerler (Oct 2, 2009)

http://idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=35-524&div=3&l1=saws_drill_bits&l1b=step_drills

http://idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=35-520&div=3&l1=saws_drill_bits&l1b=step_drills

i use these


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

BBQ said:


> What is the point of having a unibit then?


I always make a starter hole too, first with a tec screw, then a 1/4" bit then the unibit. And I am sure everyone agree's I am mr awesome and that this must be the best way to do it. Case closed.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Bkessler said:


> I always make a starter hole too, first with a tec screw, then a 1/4" bit then the unibit. And I am sure everyone agree's I am mr awesome and that this must be the best way to do it. Case closed.


You had me for a minute there. :laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

BBQ said:


> You had me for a minute there. :laughing::laughing::laughing:


I am a hole expert.


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> I always make a starter hole too, first with a tec screw, then a 1/4" bit then the unibit. And I am sure everyone agree's I am mr awesome and that this must be the best way to do it. Case closed.


You are on a PW job. Tech screw, 1/4" bit, 3/8" bit, 1/2" bit, then a 3/8" round file to 7/8", then a manual ko punch.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

I'm in the market for a 1/8" drill bit. Anybody got any good suggestions? While I'm at it, I'm also gonna splurge and buy a 10/32 screw. What does everybody use? Might even get one with a washer.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

mcclary's electrical said:


> ......... Might even get one with a washer.


Flat? Split? Tooth? 

Steel? Aluminum? Stainless? Rubber? Vinyl?

Plain? Fender?


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

knowshorts said:


> You are on a PW job. Tech screw, 1/4" bit, 3/8" bit, 1/2" bit, then a 3/8" round file to 7/8", then a manual ko punch.


That's funny, you forgot about standing around between each step to chat with the other trades.


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Check these out.

https://kimballmidwest.com/catalog/MarketingText/Roto-Kut Hole Cutters.pdf

One of the guys I work with had these, and let me try them out. I just had my company order me the whole set. They are badåss! The metal shavings don't go inside the panel like a unibits does.:thumbup:


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> That's funny, you forgot about standing around between each step to chat with the other trades.


I also left out the fact that you are working on the second floor. In order to get the 1st bit you would have to go down to the basement to get the drill index from the foreman. The foreman tells you that Matt checked it out and he's on the 3rd floor. So you go to the 3rd floor to see Matt. He's not there. His apprentice tells you he went across campus to use the nice bathrooms. He had a breakfast burrito before work. He took his bags with him too. After waiting a few minutes you decide to take the trip across campus also. Not necessarily because of the nicer bathrooms, mainly to get the drill index and you will be walking right by the Physiology Department and that instructor in Room 104B is really hot. You meet Matt on his way back and unfortunately you never got to see a glimpse of Ms. Carter. Oh damn, look at what time it is. It's break time. 

After break you go back to the second floor to start your hole. You break out the cordless and the battery is dead. You reach for your other battery that you have in your flashlight and somehow the 'on' switch was activated and drained that battery also. So you grab your charger and now you have 2 choices. Go to the basement and charge you battery or go to the 5th floor spider box. You decide to go to the 5th floor so you can sneak a smoke or two on the roof rather than going to the basement and run into the foreman. 

You grab your batteries and proceed to drill your 1/4" hole. Man, it goes through butter. You then proceed to drill out your 3/8" and 1/2" holes. Now for the filing. But, Tony interrupts you. He has a message that the foreman needs the drill index for the new guy and wants you to return it to the basement as soon as possible. So you start to head down the stairs to the basement and that stairwell is blocked between the 1st floor and basement. You exit on the 1st floor and walk to the other side of the building to access the other set of stairs to the basement. You finally return the drill index and make your way back to the 2nd floor. You break out your trusty round round file and you get about half way done and the handle snaps. You try a 33 band-aid and that doesn't work. You try tie wire, same result. Then you think, this a college campus. You will head over to the Industrial Arts building and look for a Wood Shop. To your amazement, you find the building with ease. Unfortunately, this building just went under a renovation also, and it is now Creative Arts Building 2. Industrial Arts classes were cancelled due to budgetary reasons. Really? So you have an brilliant idea. Then you look at your phone and it's 11:45. Time to clean up and go have lunch. 

Now, back to your idea. Since you actually took wood shop in 7th grade, you think you may be able to possibly create a handle for your file out of the handle from a paint brush. You walk into the painting class. Boy, did you pick the wrong painting class. This one happened to be nude painting, and it was a dude. You approach the instructor to ask for an old brush, but you cant really get the naked man out of your mind. The guy had to be in his late 30s', at least 100 pounds overweight, and obviously never heard of man-scaping. Why, oh why, is he sporting a solid 1 1/2" flaccid over you? Oh well, you shake those thoughts and you got to get back to work. In not much time at all, you make a new handle for your file and finish your 1st of 13 holes. Wow, it's 2:10. Time to clean up and go home. The next day you finally get an apprentice. Now you can stay at your work area and send him everywhere, and while you're waiting you can spend the day on your ET app.



I do miss prevailing wage jobs.


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Cool story bro:jester:


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

You just described last Wednesday but left out the part about the college girls and how hot they are.


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> You just described last Wednesday but left out the part about the college girls and how hot they are.


You're right, I take it for granted that everyone knows how hot the chicks in the 909/951 can be.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

knowshorts said:


> You're right, I take it for granted that everyone knows how hot the chicks in the 909/951 can be.


It looks like 1-15 commute. Do you know the 5 second rule?


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

_Knowshorts, _I laughed my ass off reading that. :thumbup: 

-John


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> It looks like 1-15 commute. Do you know the 5 second rule?


If it's the 5 second rule I know of while working in "educational" facilities, you gotta wear sunglasses if you need more time to download into the spank bank.


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*this*

http://www.vansantent.com/sheet_metal_cutters.htm


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## knowshorts (Jan 9, 2009)

Big John said:


> _Knowshorts, _I laughed my ass off reading that. :thumbup:
> 
> -John


If you knew how much I struggled in school with all the grammar related subjects, then that definitely means a lot. Glad you enjoyed it.

And, I think what makes it funny is that we have all had days like that.


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## freeagnt54 (Aug 6, 2008)

robroy952 said:


> Check these out.
> 
> https://kimballmidwest.com/catalog/MarketingText/Roto-Kut Hole Cutters.pdf
> 
> One of the guys I work with had these, and let me try them out. I just had my company order me the whole set. They are badåss! The metal shavings don't go inside the panel like a unibits does.:thumbup:



how much did that cost, and do they make an electrician set?


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## MarkyMark (Jan 31, 2009)

Not sure if Peter D was joking or not, but Harbor Freight seriously does make the best unibit. It is probably the only thing worth buying there. Instead of $40 + per unibit, they are 3 for $14 if you catch them on sale. They are cheap as hell because they are only surface hardened steel, not tool steel heat treat hardened, but they stay sharp just as long, if not longer, than the expensive ones. If you lose or misplace one - who cares - you bought a three-pack, and there are two more sitting in your drill box.


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## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

The dottie with replacement tips is great, has three cutting sides for quicker cutting and smaller burrs. Also which ever you choose, read the instructions, most people dont and dont realize 600rpm is a good speed average. A 1800-2000rpm in a Makita or dewalt 18v drill will burn it out a hell of a lot faster. Slow with oil any decent bit will last pretty long.


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