# Pool motor stalling



## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

I have a 1 hp pool pump motor that stalls when I turn it on after it's been off for a few minutes (warm?).
It hums a little when the timer starts it in the morning (cold?) but runs all day after that. 
I'm not a motor guy. All I can figure is it's the capacitor, so I changed that. It didn't help. 
The motor shop says bring it in, but I'll probably have to buy a new motor. I thought maybe a different size cap, but the motor shop said that won't work. 
Anyone have a solution?


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

garisilver said:


> I have a 1 hp pool pump motor that stalls when I turn it on after it's been off for a few minutes (warm?).
> It hums a little when the timer starts it in the morning (cold?) but runs all day after that.
> I'm not a motor guy. All I can figure is it's the capacitor, so I changed that. It didn't help.
> The motor shop says bring it in, but I'll probably have to buy a new motor. I thought maybe a different size cap, but the motor shop said that won't work.
> Anyone have a solution?


Is it protected by overloads?


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Are there two windings?


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

There's internal protection. It trips when the motor is turned back on after being off for a few minutes. It cools off and the motor tries to start, but it trips again. The interval between start attempts is a few minutes. Only if I leave it off for more than about 15 minutes will it start. And it's a 115/230 volt motor so that would mean 2 windings.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

garisilver said:


> There's internal protection. It trips when the motor is turned back on after being off for a few minutes. It cools off and the motor tries to start, but it trips again. The interval between start attempts is a few minutes. Only if I leave it off for more than about 15 minutes will it start. And it's a 115/230 volt motor so that would mean 2 windings.


No, I meant are there start windings and run windings with centrifugal switch?


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

There is a centrifical switch.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

garisilver said:


> There is a centrifical switch.


Is it working? the symptoms sound like it's not


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

Starts every morning and runs all day. When the pool service shows up, they shut it off manually to clean the basket, and when they turn it on, it hums for a bit and shuts down on overload. So they leave the service switch off and the homeowner can turn the switch back on later, and it starts up then.


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## Motorwinder (Dec 30, 2010)

Take it to the motor shop. Could be the switch, the governor, or bad bearings/housings. The latter could throw the air gap off.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

garisilver said:


> Starts every morning and runs all day. When the pool service shows up, they shut it off manually to clean the basket, and when they turn it on, it hums for a bit and shuts down on overload. So they leave the service switch off and the homeowner can turn the switch back on later, and it starts up then.


That's not what I asked. Did you verify if the centrifugal switch is working?


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## oldtimer (Jun 10, 2010)

garisilver said:


> Starts every morning and runs all day. When the pool service shows up, they shut it off manually to clean the basket, and when they turn it on, it hums for a bit and shuts down on overload. So they leave the service switch off and the homeowner can turn the switch back on later, and it starts up then.


 On some units, you can clean up the contacts on the centrifugal switch, or
adjust the springs, or both.

The switch itself can be replaced, if necessary.


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

The motor starts every day. So the centrifugal switch must be okay when it starts cold. So is it possible that it's not working when the motor is warm? It's a mechanical switch, so I would think that heat wouldn't have any effect. But, then again, I did say I'm not a motor guy.


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## Motorwinder (Dec 30, 2010)

Most pool pump motors don't even have switches anymore. Some do but most are split-phase. 

Went and talked to my single-phase tech about this, and he said it's probably a bad housing. That would make it hum in the morning, then when it gets hot, it would expand and pull the rotor out of center. Not starting.


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

FWIW It's an A.O. Smith C48K2PA105C5. Very common with pools here in S. Florida.


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## Motorwinder (Dec 30, 2010)

Those are good motors. If you take that back cover off you'll see the cap and switch. You probably just need to clean and adjust the switch. Emery cloth the contacts and make sure they're making contact with each other.

If you housing was bad, the motor would be noisy.


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

What bugs me is that the motor ALWAYS starts in the morning. The motor ALWAYS stalls when the pool guy shuts it off for a few minutes. It seems to me that if the swich needed adjustment that it wouldn't be so consistent in that way, and it would sometimes stall in the morning and sometimes start for the pool guy. The only thing I see different is that the motor is cold in the morning and warm when the pool guy shows up.


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## Motorwinder (Dec 30, 2010)

garisilver said:


> What bugs me is that the motor ALWAYS starts in the morning. The motor ALWAYS stalls when the pool guy shuts it off for a few minutes. It seems to me that if the swich needed adjustment that it wouldn't be so consistent in that way, and it would sometimes stall in the morning and sometimes start for the pool guy. The only thing I see different is that the motor is cold in the morning and warm when the pool guy shows up.


Well the adjustment might be so fine that when it warms up it will move away ever so slightly. A little tweak with the needle nose is all it will need. Plus cleaning will help it make better electrical contact.


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

Okay. I'll go with that. Can you tell me about properly adjusting the switch?


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## Service Call (Jul 9, 2011)

It's on it's way out. Get a new one. I actually replaced both bearings in mine (sized in millimeters and I got it right) used 8/32 threaded rod for new through bolts. Still working.


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## Motorwinder (Dec 30, 2010)

OK, I was talking to the counter guys that sell these motors. They opened up a new one and showed me the switch and governor. If it's an old style, there's a ¼" screw on the bottom of the switch. Just tighten that up, and it should close the contacts. If it's a newer on then you'd have to tweak it with a needle nose. 

They sell alot of these, and don't think it's the switch. They said they've never seen any problems with these switches or the governor.(rotating switch). They are thinking it's some mechanical problem in the motor or pump.

You can reach in and turn the governor to see if it turns freely. Everything is assessable behind that cover.


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

Thanks. I'll check it out and report back.


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

Motorwinder

Why don't you think that it's not a cracked rotor/stator?

Not that I'm calling you out but if the other things aren't it there's not much else that could be wrong... correct... I'm just asking... ?


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## Motorwinder (Dec 30, 2010)

CADPoint said:


> Moterwinder
> 
> Why don't you think that it's not a cracked rotor/stator?
> 
> Not that I'm calling you out but if the other things aren't it there's not much else that could be wrong... correct... I'm just asking... ?


It could be. But I bet it's not. Stators don't crack, they burn.(unless dropped) Rotors do crack, but it would still start when hot, just vibrate and make a lot of noise. I'm thinking it's binding in the pump when it gets hot. It's hard to analyze on-line. I would wait til it doesn't start, then try to turn the shaft in the back to see if it's tight.


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

Another FWIW to keep you guys thinking. The motor has been doing this for well over a year.


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## JRaef (Mar 23, 2009)

When it's colder, everything has a little moisture on it from condensation and the switch makes better contact, it only has to do so for an instant. 

After it's been running and warm and the pool guy turns it off, it's dry when he goes to re-start and the little extra nudge of conductivity you were getting from condensation is no longer there. 

Clean and adjust the contacts, that's what it sounds like it is. Just because the motor supply house wants to believe it can't be fixed doesn't mean it can't. You have nothing to lose for trying it, you already have that motor.


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## garisilver (Mar 10, 2009)

JRaef said:


> You have nothing to lose for trying it, you already have that motor.


My feelings exactly.


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## oldtimer (Jun 10, 2010)

garisilver said:


> My feelings exactly.



Please keep us informed, I am interested.

Let us know how you solve the problem!

I M O, the answer is in the switch!


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

garisilver said:


> I have a 1 hp pool pump motor that stalls when I turn it on after it's been off for a few minutes (warm?).
> It hums a little when the timer starts it in the morning (cold?) but runs all day after that.
> I'm not a motor guy. All I can figure is it's the capacitor, so I changed that. It didn't help.
> The motor shop says bring it in, but I'll probably have to buy a new motor. I thought maybe a different size cap, but the motor shop said that won't work.
> Anyone have a solution?


Motor undersized for the load whatever it is.


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## mrmike (Dec 10, 2010)

The problem shows that the motor gets hot after running a long time, so I think you can eliminate that switch, as it starts it when cool. 

In my experience troubleshooting motors in Indusrty- it is more likely to be a mechanical fault like Bad motor bushings or bearings. If it was an electrical fault, the motor would have never lasted this long under those conditions........................

Over time, because of the mechanical resistance on the motor load, it will damage the motor windings & fail. This motor should be near the end of its life & I would replace it........


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

already seen that motor was running at 120v instead of 240V, was running few hours then stop then restart, stop...


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

The choke might be opening prematurely or not closing at all. Did you pump the gas prior to start up?


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## poolpumprepairguyFL (Dec 2, 2011)

garisilver said:


> I have a 1 hp pool pump motor that stalls when I turn it on after it's been off for a few minutes (warm?).
> It hums a little when the timer starts it in the morning (cold?) but runs all day after that.
> I'm not a motor guy. All I can figure is it's the capacitor, so I changed that. It didn't help.
> The motor shop says bring it in, but I'll probably have to buy a new motor. I thought maybe a different size cap, but the motor shop said that won't work.
> Anyone have a solution?


YOU MUST GIVE ALL INFO ON OR ABOUT PUMP AND MOTOR.. SAY IT'S STA RITE WITH A 1 HP AO SMITH SQUARE (OR ROUND) FLANGE WITH A SERVICE FACTOR OF ? (SF)1.? A MOTOR NUMBER IS NICE .LIKE A USQ1102. :thumbup:
NOW FOR THE PROBLEM.. 1ST CHECK POWER AT THE BACK OF THE MOTOR @ THE LINES L1 AND L2 CHECK TO SEE WHAT THE MOTOR IS SET AT, CHECK VOLTAGE WITH MOTOR RUNNING.. CHECK OK ?:clap:. GO TO NEXT TEST WITCH IS AMP CHECK A 1 HP WITH A 1.25 SF @ 230 V SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 7.6 AMPS FULL LOAD DOUBLE THAT FOR 110 VOLTS .. 9.6 FOR 1.5 HP.. IF THE AMPS ARE HIGH REMOVE FILTER AND REPLACE LID, IF YOU DEAD HEAD A PUMP IT WILL MAKE THE MOTOR RUN HOT AND CYCLE ON AND OF AND EVENTUALLY BURN THE MOTOR UP. I DO NOT RECOMMEND FOOLING AROUND WITH CAPACITORS THEY CAN PACK A NASTY PUNCH THAT YOU WILL NOT SOON FORGET :boxing:.. AFTER YOU HAVE DONE THESE SIMPLE TESTS YOU ARE NOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ENOUGH TO BRING IT TO YOUR LOCAL POOL PUMP MOTOR REPAIR GUY AND ASK HIM IF HE COULD THROW IT ON THE BENCH AND TEST IT FOR YOU. MOST ALL WILL DO IT FOR FREE only takes a few minutes AND IF THEY DON'T LOOK ELSEWHERE. MOST NOISY MOTOR REPAIRS COST ABOUT 75.00 . ASK HIM HOW TO AVOID FUTURE PROBLEMS WITH YOUR MOTOR AND PUMP THIS WILL SAVE YOU $$$$ OVER THE YEARS.. HOPE I WAS OF HELP.... JAY Forida


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## lefleuron (May 22, 2010)

poolpumprepairguyFL said:


> YOU MUST GIVE ALL INFO ON OR ABOUT PUMP AND MOTOR.. SAY IT'S STA RITE WITH A 1 HP AO SMITH SQUARE (OR ROUND) FLANGE WITH A SERVICE FACTOR OF ? (SF)1.? A MOTOR NUMBER IS NICE .LIKE A USQ1102. :thumbup:
> NOW FOR THE PROBLEM.. 1ST CHECK POWER AT THE BACK OF THE MOTOR @ THE LINES L1 AND L2 CHECK TO SEE WHAT THE MOTOR IS SET AT, CHECK VOLTAGE WITH MOTOR RUNNING.. CHECK OK ?:clap:. GO TO NEXT TEST WITCH IS AMP CHECK A 1 HP WITH A 1.25 SF @ 230 V SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 7.6 AMPS FULL LOAD DOUBLE THAT FOR 110 VOLTS .. 9.6 FOR 1.5 HP.. IF THE AMPS ARE HIGH REMOVE FILTER AND REPLACE LID, IF YOU DEAD HEAD A PUMP IT WILL MAKE THE MOTOR RUN HOT AND CYCLE ON AND OF AND EVENTUALLY BURN THE MOTOR UP. I DO NOT RECOMMEND FOOLING AROUND WITH CAPACITORS THEY CAN PACK A NASTY PUNCH THAT YOU WILL NOT SOON FORGET :boxing:.. AFTER YOU HAVE DONE THESE SIMPLE TESTS YOU ARE NOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ENOUGH TO BRING IT TO YOUR LOCAL POOL PUMP MOTOR REPAIR GUY AND ASK HIM IF HE COULD THROW IT ON THE BENCH AND TEST IT FOR YOU. MOST ALL WILL DO IT FOR FREE only takes a few minutes AND IF THEY DON'T LOOK ELSEWHERE. MOST NOISY MOTOR REPAIRS COST ABOUT 75.00 . ASK HIM HOW TO AVOID FUTURE PROBLEMS WITH YOUR MOTOR AND PUMP THIS WILL SAVE YOU $$$$ OVER THE YEARS.. HOPE I WAS OF HELP.... JAY Forida


 Jay,

Your not an electrician, are you?


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## poolpumprepairguyFL (Dec 2, 2011)

lefleuron said:


> Jay,
> 
> Your not an electrician, are you?


`nope just some hobo MECHANIC that does pool pump and motor repair in Florida, AND I'M AMAZED AT ANSWERS GIVEN TO THIS POOR GUY. THIS SITE IS AS BAD AS FIXYA.. DUH MY CAR IS RED(IF YOUR LUCKY) AND THERE'S A NOISE IN OR AROUND IT, WHAT CAN IT BE ?? .TA DA ABOUT 75 REPLIES .. REMINDS ME OF THE MOVIE http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0387808/ .. A MUST WATCH ... I KNOW I'M A NEWBIE(HAVING ONLY DONE THOUSANDS OF PUMPS) BUT THERE SHOULD BE A REQUIREMENT WHEN ASKING A QUESTION. THIS NON INFO LEADS TO A RUNAWAY IN ANSWERS THAT I'M SURE JUST CONFUSES THE HLL OUT OF THE ASKER.. I NOW IT'S FREE HELP, BUT I HAVE NOTICED LATELY ON OTHER SITES THAT I INJECT MY USELESS KNOWLEDGE, OF THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF BS ANSWERS..I REMEMBER ONE ABOUT A 92 SUBURBAN THAT STALLS (NEEDS A FUEL PUMP) I SUGGESTED A FUEL FILTER AND PRESSURE TEST FIRST THING, FUEL PUMP THAT'S IN THE TANK ! TURNS OUT IT NEEDED A COMPUTER. MY FEELING IS ALL THE PRO'S OR GURUS ARE JUST GOING TO GIVE UP AND LET YOU POOR BASTRDS LEARN THE HARD WAY! THERE NEEDS TO BE A FILTER OR A REQUIRED QUESTIONNAIRE .. IF I KEEP SEING THIS ON THIS SITE I WILL DO LIKE I HAVE WITH THE OTHERS AND UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THEM OR MARK'EM AS SPAM. AS I HAVE JUST DONE WITH FIXYA.. 800 @92%.. IF ANYBODY KNOWS OF A GOOD SITE , PLEASE INFORM ME ! THANK YOU.. THE GUY WHO PRESSES BEARINGS ON ! NOT WITH A HAMMER.. THE POOLS OPEN 365 COME ON IN THE WATERS JUST FINE ((((( FLORIDA )))))) J


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

poolpumprepairguyFL said:


> `nope just some hobo MECHANIC that does pool pump and motor repair in Florida, AND I'M AMAZED AT ANSWERS GIVEN TO THIS POOR GUY. THIS SITE IS AS BAD AS FIXYA.. DUH MY CAR IS RED(IF YOUR LUCKY) AND THERE'S A NOISE IN OR AROUND IT, WHAT CAN IT BE ?? .TA DA ABOUT 75 REPLIES .. REMINDS ME OF THE MOVIE http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0387808/ .. A MUST WATCH ... I KNOW I'M A NEWBIE(HAVING ONLY DONE THOUSANDS OF PUMPS) BUT THERE SHOULD BE A REQUIREMENT WHEN ASKING A QUESTION. THIS NON INFO LEADS TO A RUNAWAY IN ANSWERS THAT I'M SURE JUST CONFUSES THE HLL OUT OF THE ASKER.. I NOW IT'S FREE HELP, BUT I HAVE NOTICED LATELY ON OTHER SITES THAT I INJECT MY USELESS KNOWLEDGE, OF THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF BS ANSWERS..I REMEMBER ONE ABOUT A 92 SUBURBAN THAT STALLS (NEEDS A FUEL PUMP) I SUGGESTED A FUEL FILTER AND PRESSURE TEST FIRST THING, FUEL PUMP THAT'S IN THE TANK ! TURNS OUT IT NEEDED A COMPUTER. MY FEELING IS ALL THE PRO'S OR GURUS ARE JUST GOING TO GIVE UP AND LET YOU POOR BASTRDS LEARN THE HARD WAY! THERE NEEDS TO BE A FILTER OR A REQUIRED QUESTIONNAIRE .. IF I KEEP SEING THIS ON THIS SITE I WILL DO LIKE I HAVE WITH THE OTHERS AND UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THEM OR MARK'EM AS SPAM. AS I HAVE JUST DONE WITH FIXYA.. 800 @92%.. IF ANYBODY KNOWS OF A GOOD SITE , PLEASE INFORM ME ! THANK YOU.. THE GUY WHO PRESSES BEARINGS ON ! NOT WITH A HAMMER.. THE POOLS OPEN 365 COME ON IN THE WATERS JUST FINE ((((( FLORIDA )))))) J


Cool Dog..:thumbup::thumbup::laughing:

IS THERE A REASON THAT YOU LEAVE THE CAPS LOCK ON FOR YOUR WHOLE POST?:blink::blink::laughing:


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## poolpumprepairguyFL (Dec 2, 2011)

HARRY304E said:


> Cool Dog..:thumbup::thumbup::laughing:
> 
> IS THERE A REASON THAT YOU LEAVE THE CAPS LOCK ON FOR YOUR WHOLE POST?:blink::blink:


yes it's called getting OLD AND WITH THIS PROCESS THE EYESIGHT GOES, IF YOUR ONE OF THEM SENSITIVE TYPES THAT GETS THERE FEELINGS HURT BECAUSE OF MY TEXT SIZE.. I MUST FORMALLY APOLOGIZE TO YOUR STUPID REPLY TO A IMPORTANT SUBJECT, CONGRATULATIONS NOW YOU KNOW WHY OLDER PEOPLE USE CAPS .. IT'S F L A T O U T E A S I E R T O R E A D  PS .. DON'T GET OLD YOU WONT LIKE IT !!! MOM HE LEFT THE CAPS ON... MOM,MOM,MOM,MOM... "HARRY"


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

poolpumprepairguyFL said:


> yes it's called getting OLD AND WITH THIS PROCESS THE EYESIGHT GOES, IF YOUR ONE OF THEM SENSITIVE TYPES THAT GETS THERE FEELINGS HURT BECAUSE OF MY TEXT SIZE.. I MUST FORMALLY APOLOGIZE TO YOUR STUPID REPLY TO A IMPORTANT SUBJECT, CONGRATULATIONS NOW YOU KNOW WHY OLDER PEOPLE USE CAPS .. IT'S F L A T O U T E A S I E R T O R E A D  PS .. DON'T GET OLD YOU WONT LIKE IT !!! MOM HE LEFT THE CAPS ON... MOM,MOM,MOM,MOM... "HARRY"



:ban:


Ok, after letting my eyesight recover from all of that...

I agree with mrmike, I am 99% sure the OP's problem is bad bearings or a pump issue. 

I have had the same failures on film projector motors, they exhibit the same symptoms.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

Normally I don't step into this one but Poolpumprepairguy.,

If you can read this I did adjust the size a little so you can read this more clear and please do not use the CAP LOCKS that means in the fourm that is shouting.

Merci,
Marc


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## poolpumprepairguyFL (Dec 2, 2011)

mxslick said:


> :ban:
> 
> 
> Ok, after letting my eyesight recover from all of that...
> ...


a 1hp film projector motor ? Once again with no motor specs this is a guess fest. With totally useless replies .. Here is a guess 4 ya, it's a shorted run winding.. Or do like i said before bring it to a motor shop and get it tested for free. Oh look the motors fine this guy just hasten replaced his filter in three years.. Ohhh


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

Jesus Christ, knock the thing down replace the motor bearings and the mechanical seal (cheap cheap cheap) have a look around inside, megger whatever you want to megger, and clean and adjust the start switch* while you are at it. Probably less than an hour's work and maybe 20 bucks.

Small electric motor bearings are so cheap.

BTW, get yourself an old deep fryer, fill it with gear oil, and fry your bearings. They will slip right on. Just be fast and get them on straight the first time.

If you are working in the field and don't have a press to get the old ones off, grind a couple weak spots in the race with a little angle grinder and give them a good wack with a hammer while the other side of the race is sitting on an anvil, or some anvil substitute (head of a big hammer clamped in your vice or something) and they will crack off pretty easy.

You do know about tapping the ends during reassembly so everything goes together straight and takes a good seat don't you?


* Why can't he replace the centrifugal start switch with an electronic timed start switch if it's bad?

Oh and BTW, you might knock this thing apart and find that it's nothing but a rag or some piece of crap stuck behind the impeller.

JRK Bearing up in LI NY can probably hook you up with whatever bearings, seals, snap rings, wafer washers and chit you might need.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

sorry,,,,,

JRK Bearings Co 
1490 Coney Island Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11230-4714
(718) 692-3032 ‎


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## Electrotech06 (Dec 11, 2011)

*motor suggestion*

Does the motor have a thermal overload on it? the Problem could be that from an overheated busching or other part of that nature. Your best bet is to test the amperage on the motor first to make sure that current isent causing the overheating of your unit. but my guess from what you said about it being like this for a year or so the motor coils would have burned out by now. so id say get yourself a rebuild kit for that particular motor after you have measured the the motor and double checked the measurments with the name plate. I hope this helps 

Student: South Central College - Electric Technician A.A.S
Aaron Mende


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Electrotech06 said:


> Does the motor have a thermal overload on it? the Problem could be that from an overheated busching or other part of that nature. Your best bet is to test the amperage on the motor first to make sure that current isent causing the overheating of your unit. but my guess from what you said about it being like this for a year or so the motor coils would have burned out by now. so id say get yourself a rebuild kit for that particular motor after you have measured the the motor and double checked the measurments with the name plate. I hope this helps
> 
> Student: South Central College - Electric Technician A.A.S
> Aaron Mende


 

You're saying the coils of the motor are bad, you're saying he should get a rebuild kit. Are you suggesting he, (himself) rewind the motor?


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## Electrotech06 (Dec 11, 2011)

If he knows how too rewind them yes. if the coils are bad the motor would in a sense be shot he would need to change out the coil or have someone do it. a rebuild kit sorry sorry im so use to hydraulic pumps and pneumatic pumps. im sure it could be something mechanical rubbing in the motor.



> Student: South Central College - Electro-mechanical Technician
> Aaron Mende


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## ACDC (Apr 15, 2010)

garisilver said:


> I have a 1 hp pool pump motor that stalls when I turn it on after it's been off for a few minutes (warm?).
> It hums a little when the timer starts it in the morning (cold?) but runs all day after that.
> I'm not a motor guy. All I can figure is it's the capacitor, so I changed that. It didn't help.
> The motor shop says bring it in, but I'll probably have to buy a new motor. I thought maybe a different size cap, but the motor shop said that won't work.
> Anyone have a solution?


Hi, if your problem isn't sorted yet, try this. Start the pump when it's cold, let it run for a minute, stop it, wait 30 seconds, start it again, if it stalls, let me know cause then it will be an easy fix.

Greetings


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## kingull (Jan 2, 2012)

Motorwinder said:


> Most pool pump motors don't even have switches anymore. Some do but most are split-phase.
> 
> Went and talked to my single-phase tech about this, and he said it's probably a bad housing. That would make it hum in the morning, then when it gets hot, it would expand and pull the rotor out of center. Not starting.


Incorrect: most motors on pools (In australia) are PSC:
(Permanent split Cap)
Dual windings: Main and auxiliary with capacitor.
Capacitor is matched to winding so must be correct sized permanent rated capacitor.
Overloads are often "inherent" (Encased in winding) "Klixon" brand used in au


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