# Grinder or Rotozip or Sawzall?



## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Slots for what.. :blink::blink:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I've done an awful lot of old work, but I have yet to come across the need to cut slots in drywall. You've got me curious now too. What the heck are you doing?


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

Retrofit wiring. Running romex, BX, and bell wiring through wooden studs holding finished walls.

By cutting slots, I mean long ones - all along whatever walls we're pulling wires in.

The EC I'm doing residential for wants it done this way and it's just eating time up left, right and center.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Don't houses in Canada have attics, crawl spaces, and basements? I can see maybe needing to do that in a Florida-type home, with no basement, no crawl space, and very low pitched roofs with no accessible space above the ceiling... but Canada??


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I use this when cutting out a channel to run wires if that is what you are doing..

Easy to adjust the depth so you don't cut something lurking in the wall..


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

MDShunk said:


> Don't houses in Canada have attics, crawl spaces, and basements? I can see maybe needing to do that in a Florida-type home, with no basement, no crawl space, and very low pitched roofs with no accessible space above the ceiling... but Canada??


Condos and townhouses, moving outlets and installing stair step lights and adding potlights on underused breakers.


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

B4T said:


> I use this when cutting out a channel to run wires if that is what you are doing..
> 
> Easy to adjust the depth so you don't cut something lurking in the wall..


What is it and where can I get it?


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

cordless multi tool does a pretty good job at that too

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...ss-system/m12-cordless-multi-tool-kit/2426-22


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

CDN EC said:


> What is it and where can I get it?


Try here.. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5090DW-9-6-Volt-Cordless-Circular/dp/B00004YODY


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

For old brick homes in town, the exterior walls were often plaster on brick. For that, I have a Hitachi wall slotter.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> For old brick homes in town, the exterior walls were often plaster on brick. For that, I have a Hitachi wall slotter.


OH yeah I like the look of that tool..Have a link that will come in handy.:thumbsup:


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

Nice, thanks! Anything to save time and energy when doing that, cutting double drywall with a drywall saw is so time consuming it's a waste.

2 jobs that called for it in the past week. One was a 33d floor condo that had no access over or under, and the other was a townhouse with concrete floors and stairs.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Marc.. I would guess around $1100.00 for that setup.. really nice tool..

I just need a good reason to buy one.. :laughing:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

HARRY304E said:


> OH yeah I like the look of that tool..Have a link that will come in handy.:thumbsup:


I got it 10 years ago, maybe. It was around a grand at the time. Ordered it at the Milwaukee dealer locally. They also handle some Hitachi. I can't seem to find one online. Mine is a WC35 model. You can find zillions of them on UK sites for pretty good prices. They must do a lot of plaster on brick and block. A lot of their power tools are 110v (some funny construction site requirement). I suppose you could order one from the UK and put a north american cord cap on it.


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

CDN EC said:


> For cutting slots in drywall, what do you use?
> 
> The drywall saw is just taking too much time


Any time that you need to cut holes in dry wall the best way to go is use a 4" hole saw and save the puck you can cut strapping and put it back after you fish in your wires a little mud and your good.

the big holes you create you can reach in and grab your snake or any other tool you are using to get the wires from A-to - B.:thumbup:


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> I got it 10 years ago, maybe. It was around a grand at the time. Ordered it at the Milwaukee dealer locally. They also handle some Hitachi. I can't seem to find one online. Mine is a WC35 model. You can find zillions of them on UK sites for pretty good prices. They must do a lot of plaster on brick and block. A lot of their power tools are 110v (some funny construction site requirement). I suppose you could order one from the UK and put a north american cord cap on it.


It common on larger UK jobsite that do reqired *120* volts tools but for resdential owners they can get away with 240 volt tools without issue.

In France very few spots we have to use 120 volts tools but majorty of the time it easier to just run 240 volt tools.

Yeah we have tonnes of plaster on brick and block even stone walls.

Merci,
Marc


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> I got it 10 years ago, maybe. It was around a grand at the time. Ordered it at the Milwaukee dealer locally. They also handle some Hitachi. I can't seem to find one online. Mine is a WC35 model. You can find zillions of them on UK sites for pretty good prices. They must do a lot of plaster on brick and block. A lot of their power tools are 110v (some funny construction site requirement). I suppose you could order one from the UK and put a north american cord cap on it.


Interesting I can find some work for that tool Maybe across drive ways and stuff like that.:thumbsup:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

HARRY304E said:


> Interesting I can find some work for that tool Maybe across drive ways and stuff like that.:thumbsup:


It will definitely do that.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I can't find that 9.6v Makita saw anywhere.. I think it got upgraded to a 12V, model.. 

I have a diamond blade for cutting tile and the saw has a great design.. now it looks like a miniature circular saw..


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Electric chainsaw...


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

M12 hackzall with the blade cut down to 13mm or whatever your drywall thickness and it will pass over studs and dwangs nicely.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

chewy said:


> M12 hackzall with the blade cut down to 13mm or whatever your drywall thickness and it will pass over studs and dwangs nicely.


I caught my dwang in my zipper one time. Ouch. Sure wouldn't want a hackzall accident down there. Thanks for the good advice.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> I caught my dwang in my zipper one time. Ouch. Sure wouldn't want a hackzall accident down there. Thanks for the good advice.


Not many members would admit to having their zipper undone while handling their dwang around a room full of studs...


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

chewy said:


> Not many members would admit to having their zipper undone while handling their dwang around a room full of studs...


Yeah, well... I'm cool like that.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

If you were hanging around me with your dwang out I would give the head of it a hard finger flip. Cause I am cool like that. :laughing:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I wish Chewy would just tell us what sort of Aussie slang "dwang" is. Probably like a furring lath or something. Until then, I can only think of a penis, and I usually don't have a dirty mind.


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## Clarky (Sep 25, 2011)

This year I bought a Craftsman { don't ever buy from sears but was desperate} 12 Volt multi tool cordless, has paid for it's self. Great for cutting in wall devices in plaster and lath old houses,


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## Theriot (Aug 27, 2011)

Don't remember how I ever done anything without my rotozip. I use it for everything. It faster than a multi tool and more delicate a rip saw. I almost never take out my multi tool. I have a few brands and all take their own blades or you need a adaptor that is never to be found and the blades are pricey. My rotozip has made me so much money.


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## big vic (Jan 23, 2012)

http://www.rockwelltools.com/US/Rockwell_VersaCut.aspx


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## walkerj (May 13, 2007)

CDN EC said:


> Nice, thanks! Anything to save time and energy when doing that, cutting double drywall with a drywall saw is so time consuming it's a waste.
> 
> 2 jobs that called for it in the past week. One was a 33d floor condo that had no access over or under, and the other was a townhouse with concrete floors and stairs.



Not sure about Canada but, if those are townhouses and it is double 5/8" rock, it is likely a rated wall. 

While this is likely not your problem, you can't patch a double layer gypsum wall by just patching it back in your slot. 
The seams must not line up on the two layers or you have taken away the proper rating. 

Just FYI and CYA


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

B4T said:


> I use this when cutting out a channel to run wires if that is what you are doing..
> 
> Easy to adjust the depth so you don't cut something lurking in the wall..


This saw is a classic. I just use a cordless sawzall, less dust than circ saw and rotary saw.


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## coon88 (Dec 9, 2011)

Fein multimaster


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## randas (Dec 14, 2008)

I like the 12 gague for opening up walls quickly


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> I wish Chewy would just tell us what sort of Aussie slang "dwang" is. Probably like a furring lath or something. Until then, I can only think of a penis, and I usually don't have a dirty mind.


Its a peice of 2x4 that goes between studs as a brace every 600mm.


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## Turtle3000 (Feb 25, 2012)

Milwaukee mini cordless saw all works awesome. I find rotozips a little hard to control.


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

walkerj said:


> Not sure about Canada but, if those are townhouses and it is double 5/8" rock, it is likely a rated wall.
> 
> While this is likely not your problem, you can't patch a double layer gypsum wall by just patching it back in your slot.
> The seams must not line up on the two layers or you have taken away the proper rating.
> ...


Thanks for the head's up.

It's one of those scenarios where I get brought in to do certain things and they direct exactly how it's to be done. I'll mention it to them but it likely won't change a thing


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

Turtle3000 said:


> Milwaukee mini cordless saw all works awesome. I find rotozips a little hard to control.


 Dumbest tool I ever bought. Rotozip.


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## Svtlightning207 (Apr 2, 2012)

Roto zips are nice, when you know how to use them, I did know how to use it once, but forgot, soo I stick to the key hole saw. For large sections, sawzall is nice, just keep it at a angle where the blade doesn't dig in too deep.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

For our uses in cutting drywall, it's really hard to beat the multi-master. OK, so it's rather slow- BUT it's extremely controllable, you can make square cuts and little notches easily, and - best of all - there's very little dust in the air. What dust is made tends to be of rather large grains, that fall straight to the floor.

Another 'plus' to the multimaster is that you can easily make your cut right down the face of a stud - which makes replacing the patch so much easier.

Contrast that to rotozips and circular saws, which seem to fill the air with a fine dust that will take days to settle.

Circular saws, saber saws, and saws-it-alls can too easily hack into the framing, and making that cut down the face of a stud in a real challenge. The saws-it-all will chew apart anything it finds in the cavity, and a saber saw uses the cavity like an amplifyer, broadcasting its' hum all over the house.

Grinders are major dust makers. Respirators are a must.

Using a hand saw is pretty efficient, but there's still that problem of cutting right atop a stud.


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## BiggyDx7 (Apr 17, 2012)

Sawsall


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## magneticpersona (Apr 28, 2012)

I destroyed 2 drywall saws this week trying to cut into some plaster walls, so maybe the way to go is use what the drywallers use, a rotor saw i believe?


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

Amish Electrician said:


> For our uses in cutting drywall, it's really hard to beat the multi-master. OK, so it's rather slow- BUT it's extremely controllable, you can make square cuts and little notches easily, and - best of all - there's very little dust in the air. What dust is made tends to be of rather large grains, that fall straight to the floor.
> 
> Another 'plus' to the multimaster is that you can easily make your cut right down the face of a stud - which makes replacing the patch so much easier.
> 
> ...


Which blade are you using on there? How long have you had it last? Judging by the looks of it, it wouldn't last through 2 decent house renos :blink:


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

I use the moon-shaped blade with the carbide grit. 

The toothed blades are faster, and tear up the edges of the paper less- but wear is an issue. Fein blades last pretty long, but are expensive Cheap blades ... well, might as well not bother.


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

Cutting down on dust would be great though, would hate to have to set up the plastic barriers on every small addition


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

That's what's so nice about the multi-master.

Look at it while you're making a horizontal cut ... and you'll see quite a bit of the dust is quite happily dancing about on the moving blade. The tool simply does not throw dust into the air. Typically, you wind up with a nice little pile right below where you were cutting.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

I tape my shop vac to the side of my multi tool and it gets 90% of the dust.


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

After much deliberation, went with this: 









$149.99...Not a bad deal when it includes the small driver


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

CDN EC said:


> After much deliberation, went with this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thats what I use and tape the M18 vac hose to the side of it and there is very little dust even making it to the floor below the cut.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

B4T said:


> I use this when cutting out a channel to run wires if that is what you are doing..
> 
> Easy to adjust the depth so you don't cut something lurking in the wall..


 
I have been using that same saw since I started. Works perfect, doesn't throw too much dust and cuts right down a stud face fast.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Amish Electrician said:


> For our uses in cutting drywall, it's really hard to beat the multi-master. OK, so it's rather slow- BUT it's extremely controllable, you can make square cuts and little notches easily, and - best of all - there's very little dust in the air. What dust is made tends to be of rather large grains, that fall straight to the floor.
> 
> Another 'plus' to the multimaster is that you can easily make your cut right down the face of a stud - which makes replacing the patch so much easier.
> 
> ...


 

You can't beat the speed of cutting down a stud face with that little makita saw and it doesn't throw that much dust. The blades are thinner than oscillating blades.


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## LARMGUY (Aug 22, 2010)

CDN EC said:


> Thanks for the head's up.
> 
> It's one of those scenarios where I get brought in to do certain things and they direct exactly how it's to be done. I'll mention it to them but it likely won't change a thing


I hope they don't have a fire after you run your wires. If they do, I hope the GC's records of remodeling go up with it. 

Be careful when you are brought in to "do certain things".


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

LARMGUY said:


> I hope they don't have a fire after you run your wires. If they do, I hope the GC's records of remodeling go up with it.
> 
> Be careful when you are brought in to "do certain things".


It's their liability on the jobs, not mine. They typically bring me in for wiring they can't figure out or don't have time to, etc., and usually do the rough-in before I get there, but a few times lately I've gotten stuck doing the rough work myself. Sub-sub contracting 

I did mention it to them though, they didn't have a clue about them being rated walls :whistling2:


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## CDN EC (Jul 31, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I have been using that same saw since I started. Works perfect, doesn't throw too much dust and cuts right down a stud face fast.


That was originally my first choice, but went with the Milwaukee multi-tool for the versatility and for the extra tool. Been needing to use a friend's dremel to cut out bolt studs out of 1104 boxes lately for these big home automation dimmers and thinking this tool either has a steel-cutting blade, or can modify the wood cutting one by tapping in a piece of hacksaw blade.


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## mart6992 (May 16, 2012)

I see what you're asking. I've had to butcher drywall ceilings, etc to get a drill to the joists/studs.
I love a cordless sawzall for this.


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## mbednarik (Oct 10, 2011)

use a circ. saw and set the depth, works great.


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