# Recessed Panel Change to Surface Mount



## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

Punch 2" holes in the back of the panel, use chase nipples and bushings, line up the old panel cover to the back of the panel as a template for the mounting screws and dimensions for punches, pull conductors thru chase nipples, screw panel to old one( for ground continuity), wire new surface panel.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

Shockdoc said:


> Punch 2" holes in the back of the panel, use chase nipples and bushings, line up the old panel cover to the back of the panel as a template for the mounting screws and dimensions for punches, pull conductors thru chase nipples, screw panel to old one( for ground continuity), wire new surface panel.


Shockdoc.,

We are not too crazy with that methold as you suggest due there are some case you will have to get that new panel off when something fail behind of that panel.

We went thru like that with both Americiane and French panel so there is no differnce how we slice it. So ., really not worth it in some location.

Merci,
Marie et Marc


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## denny3992 (Jul 12, 2010)

Ive done the shockdoc method, not sure any other way to do it?


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

frenchelectrican said:


> Shockdoc.,
> 
> We are not too crazy with that methold as you suggest due there are some case you will have to get that new panel off when something fail behind of that panel.
> 
> ...


There should no reason for any failure in the old panel if all the conductors are pulled into the new one splice free. The old box is now used as a pull box. 
I have seen the bottom feeders splice and extend their circuits in the old box behind the panel, bad practice.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

Shockdoc said:


> There should no reason for any failure in the old panel if all the conductors are pulled into the new one splice free. The old box is now used as a pull box.
> I have seen the bottom feeders splice and extend their circuits in the old box behind the panel, bad practice.


That useally true if the exsting conductors are long enough to reach in the new panel then it will be not a issue.

We just have one service call yesterday with bad panel splice which they used the old customer unit as splicing spot and half of the splices were toasted.

That part if done right it is ok but majory of our time we have to think out of the box somehow. and we can add a additional box as the situation arise but most case the larger new load centre will cover the old one nice.

Merci,
Marie et Marc


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## SparkyDino (Sep 23, 2013)

I doubt any AHJ would allow that here, mounting new panel over old one without busting the wall open directly under the old panel & re-routing the conduits into the new tub. the new tub should be longer, so lowering the conduits to offset into the new one wouldn't be an issue.

:001_huh:


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## jza (Oct 31, 2009)

frenchelectrican said:


> That useally true if the exsting conductors are long enough to reach in the new panel then it will be not a issue.
> 
> We just have one service call yesterday with bad panel splice which they used the old customer unit as splicing spot and half of the splices were toasted.
> 
> ...


Fantastic

Super great


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

Is that conduit in the old panel?

If so, there's no way in hell I'd mount a panel over it. 

1. Go next to it and nipple in somehow.
2. Recess it and leave a chase for future access.

If it was cable, and I was forced into it, I'd feel dirty but.... I'd tape the neutrals to their hots to eliminate any future tshooting questions.

And, yeah, I've seen it done with all the splices buried in the old panel.:jester:


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

I would suggest removing old panel, install flush mount panel in its place, and pipe two-1" conduits above ceiling and put into empty 12x12 box for any future expansion.


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## Whidbey (Aug 17, 2013)

Fir out enough of a wall for the new panel to fit in. Flex off of the existing EMT connector to make a 90 to get into the back of the new panel. Done it a few times here and the AHJ had no problems. Your mileage may vary.


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## Tiger (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd open up the wall below the panel and attempt to get those circuits into junction boxes below the panel and run short conduits from the boxes to the panel. I don't work with block, but the rotary hammer could probably open it up quick if the wire is blocked or mortared in. If a little more precision is needed I'd go with a cold chisel and hammer.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

******* electric would mount new panel on old panel door, accessibility problem solved.:whistling2::whistling2::jester::laughing:


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

360max said:


> I would suggest removing old panel, install flush mount panel in its place, and pipe two-1" conduits above ceiling and put into empty 12x12 box for any future expansion.


There is only about 4" of space between the dropped ceiling and the structure roof. No room up there for a box.



Tiger said:


> I'd open up the wall below the panel and attempt to get those circuits into junction boxes below the panel and run short conduits from the boxes to the panel. I don't work with block, but the rotary hammer could probably open it up quick if the wire is blocked or mortared in. If a little more precision is needed I'd go with a cold chisel and hammer.


Those conduits run under the floor and up through the block. You couldn't
bust the block out without adding a lintel to support the wall.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

Little-Lectric said:


> *There is only about 4" of space between the dropped ceiling and the structure roof. No room up there for a box.
> *
> 
> 
> ...


..than run three , 3/4" conduits and put them in 4 11/16" boxes for future use, if that is what the owner is concerned with.


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## carryyourbooks (Jan 13, 2010)

i'd mount a gutter box over the bottom of the old panel with a chase nipple in the back. then splice wire with polaris taps to new panel. cover rest of old panel with plywood.


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## Meadow (Jan 14, 2011)

Ugly, but put a large J box with a cover over the old panel. EMT over to an interior surface mount or drill through the wall and put the new panel on the other side but keeping the Jbox. Label it as such. 

In situations like that I personally go with this this:


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...QGleLYizEn9vXgJFNi1pIOA&bvm=bv.53217764,d.aWc


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## rrolleston (Mar 6, 2012)

I would find a panel that I could pull the guts out and throw them into this old can and find a way to mount the new cover on there.


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

frenchelectrican said:


> Shockdoc.,
> 
> We are not too crazy with that methold as you suggest due there are some case you will have to get that new panel off when something fail behind of that panel.
> 
> ...



Hi Marc!.
ShocDoc will not have splices in the old panel. (I hope) therefore a non issue.:thumbsup:


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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

rrolleston said:


> I would find a panel that I could pull the guts out and throw them into this old can and find a way to mount the new cover on there.


i have done that and it looks like there is not too many wires that you could do that too. plenty of room. then just use anchors to mount new door to wall:thumbup:


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## SparkyDino (Sep 23, 2013)

The customer doesn't want the new panel recessed as he wants a way to be able to add circuits in the future.

re-route the conduits to a surface mounted panel is what I would do, and I'm guessing code.


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

There is another method that's used also, pemanently screw shut the old panel door, punch a 2" hole in it, install a 2" FMC 90, 14" of 2" FMC and a straight 2" FMC connector into the side of your new surface panel. Make all your splices in the old box , route your conductors thru the panel cover 90, close old cover and carry on with the rest of the install. I like the panel over the panel better, looks cleaner.


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## denny3992 (Jul 12, 2010)

Maybe pull can and install 12x12 trough over pipes, that would
Leave atleast 4" surface to get into new can... Its alot of work but doable.... 

In new construction ive brought stubs up in a masonary wall and put a 12x12 trough with 6" exposed for future circuits above the drop ceiling


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

carryyourbooks said:


> i'd mount a gutter box over the bottom of the old panel with a chase nipple in the back. then splice wire with polaris taps to new panel. cover rest of old panel with plywood.





denny3992 said:


> Maybe pull can and install 12x12 trough over pipes, that would
> Leave atleast 4" surface to get into new can... Its alot of work but doable....
> 
> In new construction ive brought stubs up in a masonary wall and put a 12x12 trough with 6" exposed for future circuits above the drop ceiling


My thoughts exactly.

Is there anyway you could land those pipes in a deep trough, frame out where the old panel is and screw you new panel over the area where the existing panel is. Then just nipple between trough and new panel.

Make sure trough is deep enough to stick out past the wall. (Obviously :jester


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