# Unibit for impact gun



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I need a 7/8" impact rated Unibit with a 1/4" hex quick-change shank.

I can find them, but I would like you guys to recommend models that you actually used.

Thanks.


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## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

HackWork said:


> I need a 7/8" impact rated Unibit with a 1/4" hex quick-change shank.
> 
> I can find them, but I would like you guys to recommend models that you actually used.
> 
> Thanks.




Unibits get so dull so quickly unless you are using them in soft metal or plastic. Besides that just uses your hydraulic quick punch. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## U Mirin? (May 19, 2015)

I've used the dewalt ones. Not heavy use but they seem to work well


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Harbor Freight has the best ones hands down...... I actually get them and use them, I seem to loose the dumb things, so I don't like to spend cash on the Lenox, Greenlee or Milwookie ones....

They last long enough that they are worth it..... LOL


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I buy the Harbor Freight too, same thing - hex shank, good enough for most things, and doesn't hurt as bad if you lose one. They don't have any short / steep ones AFAIK but they do have the stepless type, just a tapered bit that you can stop at any point.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Drsparky14 said:


> Unibits get so dull so quickly unless you are using them in soft metal or plastic. Besides that just uses your hydraulic quick punch.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the first unibit I was ever given, still works. They stay sharp for an extraordinarily long time. The only thing that gets dull quickly is the pilot tip, which is fine because I start them with a 1/4" bit.

I want this unibit so that I can keep it in my service tray and pop it into my little impact gun when I need to make a quick KO, without having to go back out to the truck to get more tools. I don't want to carry around a hydraulic KO set all the time.....


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Switched said:


> Harbor Freight has the best ones hands down...... I actually get them and use them, I seem to loose the dumb things, so I don't like to spend cash on the Lenox, Greenlee or Milwookie ones....
> 
> They last long enough that they are worth it..... LOL





splatz said:


> I buy the Harbor Freight too, same thing - hex shank, good enough for most things, and doesn't hurt as bad if you lose one. They don't have any short / steep ones AFAIK but they do have the stepless type, just a tapered bit that you can stop at any point.


I don't mind Harbor Freight tools for some things, as long as they aren't going to put me in danger (like Jack Stands for a car ). 

But I also don't mind spending money on something better. IFWIW, I don't lose tools, ever.

If the Harbor Freight one does last a long time, then I'll get it. I just don't want to buy it and then go to use it and have it not work. Then, when I am walking out to the truck, I will be cursing both of you


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

BTW, I didn't know others were available with the 1/4" hex shank, who else makes them?


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I don't think I've ever lost a step bit but I have had them disappear borrowed / stolen. I think a lot of maintenance men etc. that "borrow" them don't realize how expensive they are, I wouldn't expect them to actually return a 1/4" bit or a sharpie. 

I still have the first Ideal titanium I ever bought, going on 20 years (!) but others are gone. The Ideal still cuts, though the tip is shot. If it gets so bad it won't cut holes I am going to try sharpening it.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

The Horrible Freight Christmas tree should be fine.
They do work well, but i found the 1/2" step dulls quick in tougher metals like stainless steel.
Should be fine for what you need it for and cant beat the cost.
Last one i got was 2 for $13.

Texting and Driving


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

See, 2 for $13 scares me because we know how expensive these normally are.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

You'll be pleasantly surprised. They're fine for softer metals.

Horrible Freight itself scares me. Lol

Even of 1 wears out, you got the other as backup and if you used it once or twice you already got your moneys worth

For a knockout in panels or JB's, i doubt you'll have any issues with em.


Texting and Driving


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> See, 2 for $13 scares me because we know how expensive these normally are.


Hate to say it but Harbor Freight bits might show a lot of others brands are gouging. Keep in mind a lot of times they're coming from the same factory in China. The better brands are not all made in USA any more but they are still expensive. 

I suspect that step bits were once very labor intensive to make but with modern machining are dirt cheap. The others just never got around to lowering their prices to match production costs. 

When a uni bit fails it doesn't just quit out of the blue one day, it's a little slower when it's dull, but it will make it through the day. 

If you're cutting a lot of holes, you'll be using something different anyway. The way you use it, same way I use it, it's just compact and handy.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

trentonmakes said:


> You'll be pleasantly surprised. They're fine for softer metals.
> 
> Horrible Freight itself scares me. Lol
> 
> ...


That right there is my entire point. If it wears out and I go to use it and it doesn't work, I will be pissed that I didn't just spend the money on a decent product.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Hate to say it but Harbor Freight bits might show a lot of others brands are gouging. Keep in mind a lot of times they're coming from the same factory in China. The better brands are not all made in USA any more but they are still expensive.
> 
> I suspect that step bits were once very labor intensive to make but with modern machining are dirt cheap. The others just never got around to lowering their prices to match production costs.
> 
> ...


Fine, you convinced me. I'll get the HF one.

My next objective is to find a tackle box style organizer, only small enough to fit into a tool pouch. Long and skinny maybe.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

Horrible Freight may have that too!

Just hold your nose in there, that chinese rubber has a stank too it

Lol

Texting and Driving


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Their organizers are made of cheap plastic and crack easily.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

trentonmakes said:


> Horrible Freight may have that too!
> 
> Just hold your nose in there, that chinese rubber has a stank too it
> 
> Lol


It's no joke! My cousin gets a rash every time he goes in Harbor Freight


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## sburton224 (Feb 28, 2013)

I also like the step bits with the 1/4" hex shank for use in a impact...I've used a couple of the dewalts as well as a couple different ones off of Ebay. This one http://www.ebay.com/itm/172543968625 has held up just as well as my $50 Klein. I do however take it easy on them and use cutting oil on real hard metals.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

That's 2 votes for Dewalt, 2 votes for Harbor Freight, and 1 vote to carry a hydraulic KO set around with me everywhere.


Does anyone actually use a KO set to make 1/2" KO's? I always use a 7/8" holesaw to make the starter hole when using a KO set, I've never KO'd a 7/8" hole.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Hack,
Have you considered just buying a nice 7/8" carbide holesaw and using that instead? The one with the spring inside that flicks the slug out is really nice.

I'm not a fan of the Uni-bit personally. they work, they are easy to sharpen but they just make way too much of a mess for me.
I do keep one of those long skinny ones that go up to 1/2" only the enlarge 1/4" mounting holes when using 3/8" sleeve anchors mounting to a block wall.

I remember those things being about $35 when they first came out in the early 80s. At the time, and they still might, they had a lifetime warranty. 
I was working with my dad and he loved his Uni-bit. One day it broke in half, had to be a weakness in the metal.
We went to the supply that week and he asked me to go get it. 
I didn't know and had thrown it away. 
The counter guy busted out laughing, told me about the warranty. 
It was a very long and quiet ride home.

Maybe that's really why I don't use them.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Suncoast Power said:


> Hack,
> Have you considered just buying a nice 7/8" carbide holesaw and using that instead? The one with the spring inside that flicks the slug out is really nice.


 Yeah, I got one, plus a few dozen 7/8" and 1-1/8" good quality holesaws that I normally use to make smaller KOs. Or at least I used to use them when I did commercial work.

But in this instance I am just looking for something small to keep on me at all times for the random KO I need to make.



> I'm not a fan of the Uni-bit personally. they work, they are easy to sharpen but they just make way too much of a mess for me.


 Agreed. I normally use a holesaw to make a hole and a unibit just to expand a hole. But this situation is different.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Suncoast Power said:


> Hack,
> Have you considered just buying a nice 7/8" carbide holesaw and using that instead? The one with the spring inside that flicks the slug out is really nice.


That's probably the way to go if it's just for KOs. 

I use the unibit for enlarging holes in boxes etc so I can use a larger fastener, making a half inch holes in steel studs for snap toggles, making holes in steel stud top plates for a 3/4" grommet, etc., just whatever comes up. It isn't always the best tool for the job but it's small and saves trips to the truck.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Suncoast Power said:


> I'm not a fan of the Uni-bit personally. they work, they are easy to sharpen but they just make way too much of a mess for me.


Do you just sharpen them with a flat stone on the flat part?


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

splatz said:


> Do you just sharpen them with a flat stone on the flat part?


Yes. It only takes a few passes to tidy it up.
I used a file for years until I discovered the stone.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That's 2 votes for Dewalt, 2 votes for Harbor Freight, and 1 vote to carry a hydraulic KO set around with me everywhere.
> 
> 
> Does anyone actually use a KO set to make 1/2" KO's? I always use a 7/8" holesaw to make the starter hole when using a KO set, I've never KO'd a 7/8" hole.


Actually since they came out with the carbide cutters I don't use a step bit very often. I have never seen one with a 1/4 inch shaft though.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Other than that I bought some HF one awhile back. they seem fine to me.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

trentonmakes said:


> You'll be pleasantly surprised. They're fine for softer metals.
> 
> Horrible Freight itself scares me. Lol
> 
> ...


I second this... I mean for $10-$13 even a cheap ass like you can experiment with HF crap!:whistling2:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Drsparky14 said:


> Unibits get so dull so quickly unless you are using them in soft metal or plastic. Besides that just uses your hydraulic quick punch.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I take it you didn't realize they are the easiest bit to sharpen as the cutting edge is totally flat.

A couple passes with a diamond stone or file and it stays nice and sharp.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Switched said:


> I second this... I mean for $10-$13 even a cheap ass like you can experiment with HF crap!:whistling2:


 This better not be aimed at me, I am specifically asking for a higher-priced product that will last. That's the entire point of this thread, finding something good that will work and not have to be experimented with. 

I want to spend $30-40 on a unibit.

Maybe I got poopie English, no one ever understands my simple questions.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I also like the HF bits but the ones that go to 7/8" are round shank not 1/4" hex from what I've seen there.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> This better not be aimed at me, I am specifically asking for a higher-priced product that will last. That's the entire point of this thread, finding something good that will work and not have to be experimented with.
> 
> I want to spend $30-40 on a unibit.
> 
> Maybe I got poopie English, no one ever understands my simple questions.


I am scared of a $13 airbag or fire extinguisher because you might die if it doesn't work. 

But all you have to lose if a $13 unibit doesn't work as well as you want is $13 and a trip out of the air conditioning from the house to the van. 

So when you said you were scared of a $13 unibit we figured you're a cheap ass. 

But now I see you just really, really hate the heat.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> I am scared of a $13 airbag or fire extinguisher because you might die if it doesn't work.
> 
> But all you have to lose if a $13 unibit doesn't work as well as you want is $13 and a trip out of the air conditioning from the house to the van.
> 
> ...


So you want to hurt my feelings all over again?


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> So you want to hurt my feelings all over again?


Hey don't mind me, I am a cheap ass and get all scorched if I get beat for $13.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Hey don't mind me, I am a cheap ass and get all scorched if I get beat for $13.


I'm cheap when I can be. When it comes to something that I will use for the next 20 years and will save me countless wasted trips, I don't mind spending a little to ensure it works.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I'm cheap when I can be. When it comes to something that I will use for the next 20 years and will save me countless wasted trips, I don't mind spending a little to ensure it works.


I hear you. If the Dewalt is made somewhere other than China and actually has a 1/4" hex shaft I might buy something like that just because I like it. 

Actually I just looked at the Dewalt, it has the spiral design which I don't see an advantage to and it would be harder to sharpen.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

When your Harbor Freight bit snaps and takes out your eye, you'll think of good ol' Hax.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> When your Harbor Freight bit snaps and takes out your eye, you'll think of good ol' Hax.


Never happen, I didn't skimp when I bought these impact rated safety contact lenses.


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## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

HackWork said:


> That's 2 votes for Dewalt, 2 votes for Harbor Freight, and 1 vote to carry a hydraulic KO set around with me everywhere.
> 
> 
> Does anyone actually use a KO set to make 1/2" KO's? I always use a 7/8" holesaw to make the starter hole when using a KO set, I've never KO'd a 7/8" hole.




I use a KO set to make holes larger if not, I have a carbide bit set that I wouldn't trade for anything. 

https://m.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-TKO-Ca...ZnndJDK3hU3uUo6yhwEe6Z2Cgewu85H0aAtNqEALw_wcB











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Drsparky14 said:


> I use a KO set to make holes larger if not, I have a carbide bit set that I wouldn't trade for anything.
> 
> https://m.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-TKO-Ca...ZnndJDK3hU3uUo6yhwEe6Z2Cgewu85H0aAtNqEALw_wcB
> 
> ...


I've got a rice cooker and at least 25 pairs of underwear (Hanes tightly whities).


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> I've got a rice cooker and at least 25 pairs of underwear (Hanes tightly whities).


And not one of them have the 1/4" hex shafts that fit an impact either....


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

The sharpest bit in any of my hydraulic sets is the 1/2'' since none of them have ever been used since the invention of unibits in the early 1980's.


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## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

Get the dewalt, I've had my fun messing with ya lol I have one in my bags too. I just never seem to use it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I don't use unibits so I have a question. What is the advantage of using an impact driver? Wouldn't it be better to use a drill and allow it to cut its way through? Just asking.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> I don't use unibits so I have a question. What is the advantage of using an impact driver? Wouldn't it be better to use a drill and allow it to cut its way through? Just asking.


I've never tried it in an impact driver. I only want one to use in my impact driver because I always have my impact driver with me.

As far as the benefits, impact drivers profvide a lot more torque while not twisting back on you. Whether that will work better with a unibit or not, I am not sure.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

I've been looking for one with a 1/4" hex quick release shaft too, but I want it so I can snap it into a cheap quick release extension bit, or into my Milwaukee right angle adapter. I've run into a couple tricky fishing situations where that setup would have been the tits. 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

B-Nabs said:


> I've been looking for one with a 1/4" hex quick release shaft too, but I want it so I can snap it into a cheap quick release extension bit, or into my Milwaukee right angle adapter. I've run into a couple tricky fishing situations where that setup would have been the tits.


The HF ones are good but 3/4" is the largest they carry I believe.


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## active1 (Dec 29, 2009)

Harbor Freight unibits here too.
They are so economical you don't worry about drilling drywall, loosing, wearing out.
They are about 1/5 the cost of the Home Depot ones.

That said unibits are my last choice to cut a hole.
Use them mostly for enlarging holes or making non standard sizes.
Compared to other ways to cut holes they make the most metal shavings and work a cordless the hardest.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I still can't imagine losing a tool.

Maybe OCD is a good thing to have in this respect.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> I still can't imagine losing a tool.
> 
> Maybe OCD is a good thing to have in this respect.


In the beginning I'd count them in and out of a job.

It's gotten way better since back then.


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

I've used the 1/4" quick connect harbor freight ones in an impact many times. They're the ones I buy. They last unless you're doing a lot of stainless.

Yes, I also will predrill a little pilot hole (usually use a peanut or tech screw for that because who cares if they get dull after a dozen little holes? It's just a peanut screw - throw it away). 

I've also had great luck with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002..._39?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M2EHD2R9QXCPDE69D0XM
DeWalt impact ready 1 1/8" thin kerf hole saw. They work great on an impact, cost a lot less than a carbide high speed cutter, and seem to last a good while. Worth a try. 

So if I'm punching out a tub for 3/4" or 1" emt, I'll map out my holes, poke a pilot hole with a tech screw, then use the thin kerf hole saw. Works great. But I also use my 1/4" shank unibits a ton, but usually for making small holes bigger rather than KOs for pipes.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

That dewalt holesaw looks nice, and isn't much bigger than a unibit.

Funny how it shows how screwed up Amazon pricing is. The 3/4" (tradesize) holesaw is $11 while the 1/2" is $14 lol.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

Drsparky14 said:


> I use a KO set to make holes larger if not, I have a carbide bit set that I wouldn't trade for anything.
> 
> https://m.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-TKO-Ca...ZnndJDK3hU3uUo6yhwEe6Z2Cgewu85H0aAtNqEALw_wcB
> 
> ...


I like these better than regular hole saws.
They cut stainless like butter[emoji106]

To OP, stop being a puzzy and buy the HF unibits, i gurandamtee they wont explode! Lol

Texting and Driving


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I refuse to buy anything at Harbor Freight. I bought a bunch of consumables years ago that were all complete garbage - spade bits that were good for one hole, blades that snapped, etc. I spend the money on brand name tools. It's more expensive for a reason.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

HackWork said:


> I've got a rice cooker and at least 25 pairs of underwear (Hanes tightly whities).


No thigh rash with those. :thumbsup:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MTW said:


> I refuse to buy anything at Harbor Freight. I bought a bunch of consumables years ago that were all complete garbage - spade bits that were good for one hole, blades that snapped, etc. I spend the money on brand name tools. It's more expensive for a reason.


When it comes to some stuff, like a second oscillating tool or hammer drill Harbor Freight is fine. But consumables like you mentions, I can't expect them to last that long, and it always stops working at the worst time. Like a spade bit that you take up to the attic and crawl out to the lowest spot to drill down into the outside wall, but the bit goes dull before getting thru the top plate. 

I'd rather just spend the money on a good bit and know it works.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

MTW said:


> I refuse to buy anything at Harbor Freight. I bought a bunch of consumables years ago that were all complete garbage - spade bits that were good for one hole, blades that snapped, etc. I spend the money on brand name tools. It's more expensive for a reason.


Thats not necessarily true!
Theor sockets are pretty decent even tjpugh ratchets are pretty lacking and not ergonomically friendly!

The breaker bar is fine compared to others at 3x the cost.

With slight modification that 2 ton press is the cats meow! Its top heave so needs a little bracing


If anything i steer clear of anything electronic they sell.

Texting and Driving


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

HackWork said:


> When it comes to some stuff, like a second oscillating tool or hammer drill Harbor Freight is fine. But consumables like you mentions, I can't expect them to last that long, and it always stops working at the worst time. Like a spade bit that you take up to the attic and crawl out to the lowest spot to drill down into the outside wall, but the bit goes dull before getting thru the top plate.
> 
> I'd rather just spend the money on a good bit and know it works.


Splatz mentioned they dont just go dull and stop working! Even the top dollar ones made of the finest steel!
I agree
They're called consumables for a reason

I still stand by, for sheet metal and thicker iron steel....you cant go wrong with thier unibits[emoji106]

Texting and Driving


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MTW said:


> I refuse to buy anything at Harbor Freight. I bought a bunch of consumables years ago that were all complete garbage - spade bits that were good for one hole, blades that snapped, etc.* I spend the money on brand name tools. It's more expensive for a reason.*


NOT always true: 

http://www.electriciantalk.com/f14/klein-horrible-freight-same-140761/


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I'd rather just spend the money on a good bit and know it works.


I just doubt that the other 1/4 hex shank unibit, the dewalt,is a good bit / better bit if it's made in China. 

If you're paying for quality it's fine if you're paying for the name you're getting beat.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Ive been using the Harbor Freight unibits for years with no issues


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I've had the Horrible Fright unibits stick in the impact chuck.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

The plot thickens...


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

I bough the China Freight step bits on a dare a few months back... I'm shocked at how well they hold up. As good as any name brand I've tried and much better than the embarrassingly chitty Greenlee version.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

RePhase277 said:


> I bough the China Freight step bits on a dare a few months back... I'm shocked at how well they hold up. As good as any name brand I've tried and much better than the embarrassingly chitty Greenlee version.


I took a thumbnail off with one...... so they go quite well through soft tissue just so you know!


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Why does the Harbor Freight website show 3 different models of each, although they look exactly the same?

Also, the 7/8" model has a smooth shank. Only the 3/4" model has a 1/4" hex shank so all of this Harbor Freight talk was for nothing.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Why does the Harbor Freight website show 3 different models of each, although they look exactly the same?
> 
> Also, the 7/8" model has a smooth shank. Only the 3/4" model has a 1/4" hex shank so all of this Harbor Freight talk was for nothing.


Post#31:



MechanicalDVR said:


> I also like the HF bits but the ones that go to 7/8" are round shank not 1/4" hex from what I've seen there.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

So why is everyone saying to buy one when the whole point of wanting this is to drill a quick 7/8" hole and pop a button connector in?


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

I rarely use Unibits anymore.

Impact drivers work even better with Greenlee KO sets.






I always start my KOs with the common throw-away self-tapping screw.

But I favor (Greenlee) carbide holesaws, for the most part.

They are essential for punching through stainless steel, BTW.

I have a separate T.C. pilot bit just for starting such penetrations. 

Imported from Japan, it cost me a mint. It was a special order, too. 

I'd requested a spare pilot bit for my Greenlee set and got the T.C. pilot... which I did not expect.

I quickly discovered that I had NO regrets. Twenty-years on, that puppy is STILL sharp.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> So why is everyone saying to buy one when the whole point of wanting this is to drill a quick 7/8" hole and pop a button connector in?


Because they are focused on 'unibit' and not 1/4" hex shank, then the HF debate kicked in as per usual.

Selective seeing.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Because they are focused on 'unibit' and not 1/4" hex shank, then the HF debate kicked in as per usual.
> 
> Selective seeing.


Speed reading -- and even quicker amnesia.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Switched said:


> I took a thumbnail off with one...... so they go quite well through soft tissue just so you know!


My buddy Skip was using a unibit on a box he was holding between his thighs. Somehow it slipped and cut a notch in his pecker head. :001_unsure:

Good or bad, he started cheating on his 250lb wife with a 20 year old 100lb girl.
We told him that she wasn't half the woman his wife was but he ended up marrying her anyway.
And of course she cheated on him, took his new house, he went to jail. 

That's another reason I don't care for unibits.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

HackWork said:


> I still can't imagine losing a tool.
> 
> Maybe OCD is a good thing to have in this respect.


People that lose tools are what I call "setter downers" I always put them right back in by pouch or pocket. 
The only tools I lose are the ones people borrow and I just kiss those goodbye as they leave.
Put your tools away in a tray or pouch.
This can save you from being accused of marring up a finished surface or destroying a machine' etc.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

splatz said:


> I am scared of a $13 airbag or fire extinguisher because you might die if it doesn't work.
> 
> But all you have to lose if a $13 unibit doesn't work as well as you want is $13 and a trip out of the air conditioning from the house to the van.
> 
> ...


Are you callin him yellow?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Suncoast Power said:


> My buddy Skip was using a unibit on a box he was holding between his thighs. Somehow it slipped and cut a notch in his pecker head. :001_unsure:
> 
> Good or bad, he started cheating on his 250lb wife with a 20 year old 100lb girl.
> We told him that she wasn't half the woman his wife was but he ended up marrying her anyway.
> ...





:huh:

Isn't it too early for alcohol?


----------



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Isn't it too early for alcohol?


Watermelon candy.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Suncoast Power said:


> Watermelon candy.


Plugged a melon with vodka huh?


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Because they are focused on 'unibit' and not 1/4" hex shank, then the HF debate kicked in as per usual.
> 
> Selective seeing.


I hope they all step in doody today.


----------



## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> I've had the Horrible Fright unibits stick in the impact chuck.


Oh yeah, I had one of those too.
I took it to a Dewalt repair place and I think I got a new chuck and a new switch, all under warranty.
It was the beginning of the end with Dewalt for me. I discovered Milwaukee Fuel and never went back.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Jlarson said:


> I've had the Horrible Fright unibits stick in the impact chuck.





Suncoast Power said:


> Oh yeah, I had one of those too.
> I took it to a Dewalt repair place and I think I got a new chuck and a new switch, all under warranty.
> It was the beginning of the end with Dewalt for me. I discovered Milwaukee Fuel and never went back.


Had several brands of nut runners jam in the Milwaukee impacts, vise grips and opposite direction impact and they pop out.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Suncoast Power said:


> Are you callin him yellow?


That's racist!


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Suncoast Power said:


> Are you callin him yellow?





splatz said:


> That's wacist!


Fify


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I may violate my "No Harbor Freight" rule and try a unibit.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I need a 7/8" impact rated Unibit with a 1/4" hex quick-change shank.

I can find them, but I would like you guys to recommend models that you actually used.

Thanks.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I need a 7/8" impact rated Unibit with a 1/4" hex quick-change shank.
> 
> I can find them, but I would like you guys to recommend models that you actually used.
> 
> Thanks.


I like the Harbor Freight.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

HackWork said:


> I need a 7/8" impact rated Unibit with a 1/4" hex quick-change shank.
> 
> I can find them, but I would like you guys to recommend models that you actually used.
> 
> Thanks.


:laughing:

Expect another 5 pages of useless information.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

telsa said:


> I rarely use Unibits anymore.
> 
> Impact drivers work even better with Greenlee KO sets.
> 
> ...


Biggest problem I have with my Greenlee carbides is breaking off teeth. They're not cheap to replace when you buy them one at a time!

Sent from my Samsung with a cracked screen protector


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

wendon said:


> Biggest problem I have with my Greenlee carbides is breaking off teeth. They're not cheap to replace when you buy them one at a time!


If you're breaking them off when the pilot bit gets through the metal, you can buy reverse pilot bits now. They cut counterclockwise, then you reverse the drill once they get through. 

So far I've been too cheap to buy them, I drill the pilot holes first with a good 1/4" bit that doesn't tend to walk, then follow with the hole saw.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Anyone?


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

HackWork said:


> Anyone?


I think you're the guinea pig on this one.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I guess the Dewalt should work for my purpose.


They do make the best tools. :whistling2:


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

I think I would use an extension just in case the end torqued in the chuck and get stuck.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Suncoast Power said:


> I think I would use an extension just in case the end torqued in the chuck and get stuck.


What if the extension get stuck in the chuck


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I guess the Dewalt should work for my purpose.
> 
> 
> They do make the best tools. :whistling2:


Were there others with hex shank? All I know of is Harbor Freight and Dewalt and the eBay noname chinese that look EXACTLY like the Dewalt.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

HackWork said:


> I guess the Dewalt should work for my purpose.
> 
> 
> They do make the best tools. :whistling2:


No question about it. I sold all my Milwaukee stuff in favor of DeWalt.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Were there others with hex shank?


 I don't know, I left that job up to you.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

HackWork said:


> I guess the Dewalt should work for my purpose.
> 
> 
> They do make the best tools. :whistling2:


And continues....


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

MTW said:


> No question about it. I sold all my Milwaukee stuff in favor of DeWalt.


Sold it? That Milwaukee junk isn't worth selling. I tossed mine in a fire after I bought all new DeWalt stuff.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I don't know, I left that job up to you.


My conclusion was it's better to use the M12 drill than the impact driver as your daily driver, use any damn bit you please.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

RePhase277 said:


> Sold it? That Milwaukee junk isn't worth selling. I tossed mine in a fire after I bought all new DeWalt stuff.


I sold what I could. The rest I ran over with my van so nobody else would be plagued by using inferior tools like Milwaukee.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> My conclusion was it's better to use the M12 drill than the impact driver as your daily driver, use any damn bit you please.


I did that for a period of time, it sucked. I went back to the M12 impact and never looked back.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

splatz said:


> My conclusion was it's better to use the M12 drill than the impact driver as your daily driver, use any damn bit you please.


Seriously? You still drive screws with a drill?  I stopped doing that almost 10 years ago.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Weird, you'd think a small keyless chuck on a 1/4" hex shank would be easy to find, not finding anything high quality there...


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MTW said:


> Seriously? You still drive screws with a drill?  I stopped doing that almost 10 years ago.


Are you saying I should go unscrew them and re-screw them with the impact?


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

splatz said:


> Are you saying I should go unscrew them and re-screw them with the impact?


I can't speak for him, but I'd say yes. Go do that now and check back in when you're done.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Weird, you'd think a small keyless chuck on a 1/4" hex shank would be easy to find, not finding anything high quality there...


https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20753A...d=1502038314&sr=8-1&keywords=chuck+1/4"+shank
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW052...rd_wg=kYXwk&psc=1&refRID=XYCWMN5QPP8BKPJY0AB5
https://www.amazon.com/DRILLPRO-0-5...rd_wg=8if1w&psc=1&refRID=1S0K327SNK50QCP676N6
https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-Conv...rd_wg=jmACk&psc=1&refRID=VQ22XJXX5NGB1ZAFHDM5
https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-Chan...rd_wg=3fb1L&psc=1&refRID=Y55TH9QXJBT9HT9C2F16
https://www.amazon.com/Presa-10111-...rd_wg=qxxXp&psc=1&refRID=GVXMEQHJKVVM5EVZ23AW


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Are you saying I should go unscrew them and re-screw them with the impact?


No, but you should feel bad. Driving screws with a drill is so silly.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

This picture was taken during the few months that I switched to keeping a drill in my service tray and using it most of the time. It was a very dark period for me  I'll never go back :no:












You can see that I also carried a 7/8" holesaw, but I had to get rid of that when I switched back to the impact gun with 1/4" quick-chuck.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

https://goo.gl/images/WC8qFo

This little guy is the same weight and a half inch more compact then the impact. It's better then the old screwdriver which only has 500 rpm. The fuel version is 1,700 rpm with 350 pounds of torque. I don't own one but prefer one in my arsenal when working in homes with sleeping babies etc..

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> https://goo.gl/images/WC8qFo
> 
> This little guy is the same weight and a half inch more compact then the impact. It's better then the old screwdriver which only has 500 rpm. The fuel version is 1,700 rpm with 350 pounds of torque. I don't own one but prefer one in my arsenal when working in homes with sleeping babies etc..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I actually hate that screwdriver gun. It has all the negatives of the other models with none of the advantages.

The impact gun has 1,200 inlbs. of torque vs. 350 of the screwdriver you posted. The negative of the impact is you need all the bits to have a 1/4" quick-change shaft.

The drill has a typical chuck that you can use any bit on. But the negative is that it has a lot less power than the impact.

The screwdriver has the limited chuck and the lower torque. Both negatives, no positives. 

If you are OK with the lower torque, then use the drill with the universal chuck. If you are ok with the 1/4" quick-change chuck, use the impact. The screwdriver doesn't have a place. 

Just my opinion.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

HackWork said:


> I actually hate that screwdriver gun. It has all the negatives of the other models with none of the advantages.
> 
> The impact gun has 1,200 inlbs. of torque vs. 350 of the screwdriver you posted. The negative of the impact is you need all the bits to have a 1/4" quick-change shaft.
> 
> ...


Trimming out you wouldn't need the torque and most service calls im replacing gfci' s or burnt out back stabs. So for me its just like the impact without the noise. I haven't tried one out yet but am itching to obtain one. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

splatz said:


> Are you saying I should go unscrew them and re-screw them with the impact?



Yes. Yes you should.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

splatz said:


> Are you saying I should go unscrew them and re-screw them with the impact?





RePhase277 said:


> I can't speak for him, but I'd say yes. Go do that now and check back in when you're done.





MTW said:


> Yes. Yes you should.


Well that's just great. I am going to be busy all afternoon.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I'll stop using my M12 Fuel impact when you pry it out of my cold, dead hands.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> Trimming out you wouldn't need the torque and most service calls im replacing gfci' s or burnt out back stabs. So for me its just like the impact without the noise. I haven't tried one out yet but am itching to obtain one.


I see what you are saying, but my point is that if you don't need the torque, then why not use the drill with the universal chuck that can take any bit?

This is just my pet peeve from using all 3, I don't see the purpose in the screwdriver.

FWIW, the M12 Fuel impact gun has a low and high setting. You can put it into low for trimming out. I personally keep it in high and just use trigger-control to tighten devices screws, but the lower option is there for those who might like it.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20753A...d=1502038314&sr=8-1&keywords=chuck+1/4"+shank
> https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW052...rd_wg=kYXwk&psc=1&refRID=XYCWMN5QPP8BKPJY0AB5
> https://www.amazon.com/DRILLPRO-0-5...rd_wg=8if1w&psc=1&refRID=1S0K327SNK50QCP676N6
> https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-Conv...rd_wg=jmACk&psc=1&refRID=VQ22XJXX5NGB1ZAFHDM5
> ...


Note that these are all no-name chinese just as seen on ebay and aliexpress, usually shipping from China, except the Dewalt which has one that looks just like one of the no-name Chinese. Dewalt is looking like a way to pay triple - quadruple for noname chinese stuff.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Note that these are all no-name chinese just as seen on ebay and aliexpress, usually shipping from China, except the Dewalt which has one that looks just like one of the no-name Chinese. Dewalt is looking like a way to pay triple - quadruple for noname chinese stuff.


But from what you keep saying, everything made is chinese junk. 

A lot of those chucks have very good reviews. China makes excellent products.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I only use my unibits in regular drills.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> But from what you keep saying, everything made is chinese junk.
> 
> A lot of those chucks have very good reviews. China makes excellent products.


I know, you should try the unibits from Harbor Freight.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> I know, you should try the unibits from Harbor Freight.


Will a 3/4" hole work for a button connector? I know 7/8" is a little big for button connectors, a factory 1/2" KO is slightly smaller.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> Will a 3/4" hole work for a button connector?


Yes you can oversize a hole by pushing sideways on a unibit. But Dewalt makes a little 7/8" impact rated hole saw that's better.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Yes you can oversize a hole by pushing sideways on a unibit. But Dewalt makes a little 7/8" impact rated hole saw that's better.


Then why did you tell me to get the Harbor Freight one? Jeeze.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Since splatz totally screwed me on this, I decided to go in a different direction.

I was at Home Depot bright and early buying up the new shipment of Murray 100 amp panels. I went to buy a drill bit and found a small Milwaukee hole saw that is impact rated and should work perfectly for me.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Didn't they have the Dewalt?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I didn't even look, I just saw that one and bought it. 

Besides, you said that the Dewalt is overpriced and the harbor freight was better. I can't keep up anymore


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

HackWork said:


> Since splatz totally screwed me on this, I decided to go in a different direction.
> 
> I was at Home Depot bright and early buying up the new shipment of Murray 100 amp panels. I went to buy a drill bit and found a small Milwaukee hole saw that is impact rated and should work perfectly for me.
> 
> View attachment 110513


Don't use those on pvc boxes. The thickness of the slug pops out the spring of the hole saw. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

zac said:


> https://goo.gl/images/WC8qFo
> 
> This little guy is the same weight and a half inch more compact then the impact. It's better then the old screwdriver which only has 500 rpm. The fuel version is 1,700 rpm with 350 pounds of torque. I don't own one but prefer one in my arsenal when working in homes with sleeping babies etc..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


This is what i use and it is awesome. With the adjustable chuck you can device out with it and if needed it drives a 3 inch screw like butter.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> This is what i use and it is awesome. With the adjustable chuck you can device out with it and if needed it drives a 3 inch screw like butter.


What drives 3" screws better? An impact gun with 1,200inlbs. of torque that inherently won't cam out of the screw head? Or a 350inlb. homeowner/handyman powered screwdriver that will cam out since it's nothing more than an old fashioned drill with a chuck that limits the bits you can put into it?

For those of you watching, Sabrina and I have been going back and forth about this for over 5 years now.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

HackWork said:


> What drives 3" screws better? An impact gun with 1,200inlbs. of torque that inherently won't cam out of the screw head? Or a 350inlb. homeowner/handyman powered screwdriver that will cam out since it's nothing more than an old fashioned drill with a chuck that limits the bits you can put into it?
> 
> For those of you watching, Sabrina and I have been going back and forth about this for over 5 years now.


Just want I want to use. Some ****ing loud assed drill with no touch. 
If all I am doing is screwing big stuff ,yea I will get out the impact but 90% of stuff is taken care of with the M12 screwdriver.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> Just want I want to use. Some ****ing loud assed drill with no touch.
> If all I am doing is screwing big stuff ,yea I will get out the impact but 90% of stuff is taken care of with the M12 screwdriver.


When using the impact gun to turn device screws and other screws you would use the powered screwdriver for, the impact doesn't start hammering. It only hammers when you need the power. In the lower speed setting it's quiet for devicing and other small screwing.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Did you try that milwaukee hole saw yet? Is it really 40% faster? 

There's one place here that says "BEST PIZZA IN TOWN!" on the box, but it isn't the best pizza in town. That's why I am asking.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

splatz said:


> Did you try that milwaukee hole saw yet? Is it really 40% faster?
> 
> There's one place here that says "BEST PIZZA IN TOWN!" on the box, but it isn't the best pizza in town. That's why I am asking.


3 or 4 months back I talked here about the set of those I bought . Using the impact gun just short burst your way thru the metal. It works superb speed wise, the slow down is removing the plug sometimes. They have two holes in the sides but I haven't figured out a way to utilize those teeny holes to pry out the plug. Next we are going to need a Milwaukee pry out tool......


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> 3 or 4 months back I talked here about the set of those I bought . Using the impact gun just short burst your way thru the metal. It works superb speed wise, the slow down is removing the plug sometimes. They have two holes in the sides but I haven't figured out a way to utilize those teeny holes to pry out the plug. Next we are going to need a Milwaukee pry out tool......


Does your's not have the spring? The one I just bought does.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Does your's not have the spring? The one I just bought does.


I don't know how I did it, but my springs seem to have sprung.......

They worked ok for a short while. Probably because I drilled #12 gauge sheet metal holes. Something thin like fluorescent fixtures would probably not kill the springs.


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> 3 or 4 months back I talked here about the set of those I bought . Using the impact gun just short burst your way thru the metal. It works superb speed wise, the slow down is removing the plug sometimes. They have two holes in the sides but I haven't figured out a way to utilize those teeny holes to pry out the plug. Next we are going to need a Milwaukee pry out tool......


Put your channellocks on them put the drill in reverse and back off the holesaw from the arbor, use the pilot to push the slugs out, spin it back on.

Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> I don't know how I did it, but my springs seem to have sprung.......
> 
> They worked ok for a short while. Probably because I drilled #12 gauge sheet metal holes. Something thin like fluorescent fixtures would probably not kill the springs.


That's my complaint on them, the spring.
Any thick material will back the spring off the arbor. under cabinet fixtures and fluorescents are probably where they shine. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> That's my complaint on them, the spring.
> Any thick material will back the spring off the arbor. under cabinet fixtures and fluorescents are probably where they shine.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I cant picture what you mean. What happens to the spring with thicker material? I assume thicker material will compress the spring down harder inside of the holesaw. What goes wrong?

BTW, I've been using the M18 fan, I love it. I'm happy that it moves as much air as it does, but it's a little noisy. In some situations it might bother the homeowner. Too bad :thumbsup:


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

HackWork said:


> I cant picture what you mean. What happens to the spring with thicker material? I assume thicker material will compress the spring down harder inside of the holesaw. What goes wrong?
> 
> BTW, I've been using the M18 fan, I love it. I'm happy that it moves as much air as it does, but it's a little noisy. In some situations it might bother the homeowner. Too bad [emoji106]


I haven't really noticed how except the pvc has been the culprit. I think your right about the compressing of the spring because the thickness of the pvc.
I haven't used one on pvc in a while but have just noticed that current one I own is missing the Allen key screw, which keeps the arbor in place. They need to address these items for this saw to work for me. 
I also just use my impact for trimming and keep it on high gear with no problem. 
One thing I offer my customers is the reattaching of any drywall (salvageable) that needs to be removed for fishing wires. So when I set that backing behind the drywall the torque of the impact comes into play. I don't paint or patch but try to help out when I can (small selling point).

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> This is what i use and it is awesome. With the adjustable chuck you can device out with it and if needed it drives a 3 inch screw like butter.


Say hello to my little friend! 
My impact is very jealous.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Those are stupid and worthless. Fuel impact is the best. 

Hax, I know you bought a holesaw, but my old man has a Makita unibit that is a 1/4" quick chuck shank that is the tits. Way better than the Milwaukee I used to use. I have become a convert to the carbide holesaw. I have a Ruko unibit for when I want to do unibit things, but isn't 1/4" quick chuck so I figure it's irrelevant to the discussion.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> Say hello to my little friend!
> My impact is very jealous.


 Your impact isn't jealous. That toy is weaker and does nothing that the impact can't do. It has no place in the world.



Going_Commando said:


> Those are stupid and worthless. Fuel impact is the best.


 Exactly.



> Hax, I know you bought a holesaw, but my old man has a Makita unibit that is a 1/4" quick chuck shank that is the tits. Way better than the Milwaukee I used to use. I have become a convert to the carbide holesaw. I have a Ruko unibit for when I want to do unibit things, but isn't 1/4" quick chuck so I figure it's irrelevant to the discussion.


Thanks, if I ever need the unibit with a 1/4" shank I'll try the Makita.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

zac said:


> Say hello to my little friend!
> My impact is very jealous.
> 
> 
> ...


I bought a set when they first came out in Fuel.

Love em both!

Best of luck with it.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Those are stupid and worthless. Fuel impact is the best.
> 
> 
> Yeah guy.
> ...


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

I've been following this thread and don't really understand using a drill bit on an impact gun. Doesn't the pounding of the impact gun dull the bits? 

I'll be the first to admit to not using an impact gun much at all. I been doing mainly estimating, engineering, and system startups for quite awhile instead of a lot of installation work.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

bill39 said:


> I've been following this thread and don't really understand using a drill bit on an impact gun. Doesn't the pounding of the impact gun dull the bits?
> 
> I'll be the first to admit to not using an impact gun much at all. I been doing mainly estimating, engineering, and system startups for quite awhile instead of a lot of installation work.


They don't seem to dull the bits or over heat them.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

bill39 said:


> I've been following this thread and don't really understand using a drill bit on an impact gun. Doesn't the pounding of the impact gun dull the bits?
> 
> I'll be the first to admit to not using an impact gun much at all. I been doing mainly estimating, engineering, and system startups for quite awhile instead of a lot of installation work.


The impacts work well with drill bits etc rated for impacts. I have used mine for about 5 years exclusively. When I worked commercial years ago we were slinging 18 volt or 14.4 volt hammer drills to screw in metal boxes into metal studs. I never know why we didn't follow the lead of the tin knockers using their impacts! I trim out with my impact and prefer its light weight. The reason I like a regular drill if I'm screwing in backing (no noise in a customers house with a baby) or other material that's going to draw out the clack. Screwing in trim with an impact is not an issue....i do however use a slotted screw driver for the trim [emoji3] 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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