# Any ideas?



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Finished basement remodel. A patio door flanked by two windows were taken out, and two new sliders installed in their place. 

On each side of the old door/windows, there were receps. 










The feed between the two were removed to install the two doors. Headers & framing above the door take up entire space available.










Anyone have a suggestion on how to get power across this space? No removing of ceiling is allowed.





Yes, this is a trick question....... I've already got it done. :whistling2:


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

refeed the de-energized leg from another constant source ~CS~


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## mikeanso (Nov 5, 2012)

chicken steve said:


> refeed the de-energized leg from another constant source ~CS~


Yup. You will find some part of that circuit that is easy to access with another circuit or directly from the panel.

If you are dead set on reconnecting these two boxes, you can router out a bit of the door jam so the romex will sit flush under the trim. Or crown molding, or going outside and under the siding, etc.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Sub it out to the experts at Cletis1971 electric.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

they only work part time BBQ......~CS~


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Basement is finished. No access anywhere.

The two boxes must be connected together.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Either take out the green insulation and run the wire in that 1/2" space or remove the siding from the outside wall... should be 1/2" space there... 

Header is 3" wide unless there is something I can't see from here..


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

That's not 'green insulation'. It's the factory-painted edge of OSB.... which is screwed into place to hold the door in.


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## Hippie (May 12, 2011)

Router like mikeanso said? That's about all I can come up with


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Well, one could use a router. But in this case, a table saw was much better.


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## Bbsound (Dec 16, 2011)

Cut the slab and put in PVC


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

threshold?


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## niteshift (Nov 21, 2007)

Looks like you routered a path below the top plate and above the header, and covered/nail plated it with suspended ceiling t-rail.


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## niteshift (Nov 21, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Well, one could use a router. But in this case, a table saw was much better.


Yes it would.


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## k_buz (Mar 12, 2012)

Crown Moulding


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

niteshift said:


> Looks like you routered a path below the top plate and above the header, and covered/nail plated it with suspended ceiling t-rail.


That's sheetrock.


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

i'll check back tomorrow afternoon for the answer.:thumbsup:


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*pu*

Is this some sort of trick question or puzzle or really a job?


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## CADPoint (Jul 5, 2007)

Diagonal crown molding across the top or build up some wood structural, remove gypsum that would be under the board for path way. One could use larger wood flashing.
You need a carpenter and the AHJ.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

480sparky said:


> Finished basement remodel. A patio door flanked by two windows were taken out, and two new sliders installed in their place.
> 
> On each side of the old door/windows, there were receps.
> 
> ...


I have them leave a space along the bottom of the header.


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## 347sparky (May 14, 2012)

480sparky said:


> Finished basement remodel. A patio door flanked by two windows were taken out, and two new sliders installed in their place.
> 
> On each side of the old door/windows, there were receps.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you went underneath.


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

3xdad said:


> i'll check back tomorrow afternoon for the answer.:thumbsup:


Damn.

Anyhoo, i'd say you were there for the demo and dadoed the inside of the 2X material used to build the header with aforementioned table saw. Installed your cable with two long flying ends, closed up the header, installed header, fished to recepts. Bing bang boom, done.


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## Chris1971 (Dec 27, 2010)

BBQ said:


> Sub it out to the experts at Cletis1971 electric.


Your comments are demeaning.:no:


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## jefft110 (Jul 7, 2010)

3xdad said:


> i'll check back tomorrow afternoon for the answer.:thumbsup:


Both you and I will have completely forgotten about this thread by tomorrow afternoon.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Cletis said:


> Is this some sort of trick question or puzzle or really a job?


It's a real job.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

3xdad said:


> Damn.
> 
> Anyhoo, i'd say you were there for the demo and dadoed the inside of the 2X material used to build the header with aforementioned table saw. Installed your cable with two long flying ends, closed up the header, installed header, fished to recepts. Bing bang boom, done.












Cross section of the header:













Drill a hole in the vertical framing to line up with the kerf in the 2x:











Push the FishSticks through:












Tie the NM on:













Pull on the FishSticks:












Badda-boom! Done!!!:thumbsup:


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

Thanks Ken.

If it's not too much to ask, could you up my post count by 10k and grant me immunity?


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

3xdad said:


> Thanks Ken.
> 
> If it's not too much to ask, could you up my post count by 10k and grant me immunity?


That's way above my pay grade.


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## LARMGUY (Aug 22, 2010)

When he said "tablesaw" I got it. For a tablesaw to be effective in this application you have to have the material before it is installed. A router could have been used to dado or a skill saw after the remodel but he tricked you into believing it was already done when he arrived.


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## etb (Sep 8, 2010)

480sparky said:


> That's not 'green insulation'. It's the factory-painted edge of OSB.... which is screwed into place to hold the door in.


:001_huh:

Those homeowners will be pissed in a few years.....


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

etb said:


> :001_huh:
> 
> Those homeowners will be pissed in a few years.....



About what? That their door is solidly installed?


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## etb (Sep 8, 2010)

480sparky said:


> About what? That their door is solidly installed?


Can't imagine a mfr would approve of anything other than insulation above the head jamb. When it's packed solid (or equivalently, shimmed tight in the center of head) and the header sags a door or slider window can bind.

I looked again and see it's LVL; if sized right it may not be an issue, but with a load bearing wall and 2x....


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## etb (Sep 8, 2010)

fixed your sig for ya


480sparky said:


> About what? That their door is solidly installed?
> __________________
> *participate in the great charade of choice, party, and representation!, dammit!*


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

etb said:


> Can't imagine a mfr would approve of anything other than insulation above the head jamb. .......


Solid framing above is the manufacturer's spec. Either way, it's not my problem.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

Cletis said:


> Is this some sort of trick question or puzzle or really a job?


...classic case of the pot calling the kettle black :whistling2::whistling2:.


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## magneticpersona (Apr 28, 2012)

if they have crown moldings, run a wire behind it over the door and fish down from the top of the drywall into the outlets to connect them. That should take care of it! if you buy some white sealer you can put back the moldings and it looks like you were never there


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