# Greenlee tugger



## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Can someone recommend a greenlee tugger model that is versatile for many different jobs? I’m looking for 6000lb tugger and I like the portable ones that roll around. I’m not sure which direction to go with. Originally was just going to look into a floor mount, but it wouldn’t do any good for long UG exterior service runs. 


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

Take a look at the Itoolco 10k. Their reel jacks are good too.

It rolls around and is very versatile being able to shorten/extend the boom with rigid pipe, etc.

Greenlees pull too slow for me. We've had our 10k and put it through it's paces for the last 4 years or so. Put it into places and positions a Greenlee just isn't able to do.

Cannon 10K™ Wire Puller – iTOOLco


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## Yankee77 (Oct 5, 2020)

WronGun said:


> Can someone recommend a greenlee tugger model that is versatile for many different jobs? I’m looking for 6000lb tugger and I like the portable ones that roll around. I’m not sure which direction to go with. Originally was just going to look into a floor mount, but it wouldn’t do any good for long UG exterior service runs.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Get the greenie with the cart and all the bells and whistles. It’ll be pricey, but it will outlive you.

Maxis also makes a decent 10k tugged with cart, more versatile and lighter than greenlee


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

If you want a 6000 lb puller, go with the Super Tugger (model 6001) and get it with the Versiboom cart. Look at a Greenlee model 6004 and 6005 for the kit. Whatever you do DO NOT get a UT6. They make it sound like a nice 6000lb compact puller, but then they rate it as a 4000 lb continuous, 5000lb intermittent, 6000lb momentary. I've hated what they did with their part numbers. The UT8 is a true 8000lb and the UT10 is a true 10,000lb, but not true with the G3, UT4, UT6. If you think you might need something stronger, go wtih the UT8 (model 6806 for the package). Basically the same as the Super Tugger, but comes with the 8000lb Ultra Tugger motor.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Rob-Bryant said:


> If you want a 6000 lb puller, go with the Super Tugger (model 6001) and get it with the Versiboom cart. Look at a Greenlee model 6004 and 6005 for the kit. Whatever you do DO NOT get a UT6. They make it sound like a nice 6000lb compact puller, but then they rate it as a 4000 lb continuous, 5000lb intermittent, 6000lb momentary. I've hated what they did with their part numbers. The UT8 is a true 8000lb and the UT10 is a true 10,000lb, but not true with the G3, UT4, UT6. If you think you might need something stronger, go wtih the UT8 (model 6806 for the package). Basically the same as the Super Tugger, but comes with the 8000lb Ultra Tugger motor.


So these units also work like a floor mount model ? 

It seems unlike a floor unit these can also pull into exterior cans when you don’t Have the option to mount overhead wheels. 


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## Tonedeaf (Nov 26, 2012)

I posted on this topic before...Green pullers are antiquated and too HEAVY...they dropped the ball in the puller market 15 years ago and other manufactures took ball and slam dunked it.

In the 6K range puller Itool and Maxis(I think they are south wire now) have better models and the weigh alot less than greenlee.


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## Yankee77 (Oct 5, 2020)

Tonedeaf said:


> I posted on this topic before...Green pullers are antiquated and too HEAVY...they dropped the ball in the puller market 15 years ago and other manufactures took ball and slam dunked it.
> 
> In the 6K range puller Itool and Maxis(I think they are south wire now) have better models and the weigh alot less than greenlee.


The difference is Greenlee will outlast them all. I’ll put Greenlee knockout set, jack stands, and tuggers up against any brand, and it will outlast every one em.


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## Tonedeaf (Nov 26, 2012)

Yankee77 said:


> The difference is Greenlee will outlast them all. I’ll put Greenlee knockout set, jack stands, and tuggers up against any brand, and it will outlast every one em.


your right my $12,000.00 greenlee puller will last a forever sitting in my shop....I haven't used it in 15 years.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

I’m looking for something nice used, not easy....

I got lucky with a 555CX last year, been looking for a tugger ever since.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Rob-Bryant said:


> If you want a 6000 lb puller, go with the Super Tugger (model 6001) and get it with the Versiboom cart. Look at a Greenlee model 6004 and 6005 for the kit. Whatever you do DO NOT get a UT6. They make it sound like a nice 6000lb compact puller, but then they rate it as a 4000 lb continuous, 5000lb intermittent, 6000lb momentary. I've hated what they did with their part numbers. The UT8 is a true 8000lb and the UT10 is a true 10,000lb, but not true with the G3, UT4, UT6. If you think you might need something stronger, go wtih the UT8 (model 6806 for the package). Basically the same as the Super Tugger, but comes with the 8000lb Ultra Tugger motor.


G6 turbo looks nice 


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

WronGun said:


> So these units also work like a floor mount model ?
> 
> It seems unlike a floor unit these can also pull into exterior cans when you don’t Have the option to mount overhead wheels.
> 
> ...


Yes, you can remove the motor from the cart and mount them on the floor mount. I think the floor mount is included with the set when you buy it new, but I'd have to check on that. The Super Tugger mounts on the bar style with the tie down chains. The Ultra Tugger fits into it's mount and attaches with pins.



WronGun said:


> G6 turbo looks nice
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


G6 Turbo is crap like I said in my original post. (I mistakenly referred to it as a UT6) Well, not exactly crap, but not a 6000lb puller. For lighter pulls, it's very convenient on that hand truck style, easy to move around and set up. But it's basically a 4000lb puller.


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

G6 TURBO


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Doesn’t it make sense to buy something that can handle more ? 

If I’m going to spend on a tugger does it make sense to go with a G10 for instance. I don’t have a need for that power at the moment but who knows what I’ll be doing in 5 yrs. 

These things seem to keep value very well. Some of these units on eBay look 10-20 yrs old and beat up and they still asking $3,000-$4000 for a floor mount unit. 

I really like the hand cart that the G6 uses. 


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

WronGun said:


> Doesn’t it make sense to buy something that can handle more ?
> 
> If I’m going to spend on a tugger does it make sense to go with a G10 for instance. I don’t have a need for that power at the moment but who knows what I’ll be doing in 5 yrs.
> 
> ...


exactly my point, don't go with the G6 Turbo. The UT10 may be overkill unless you have some big work planned. You're probably better off with a Super Tugger (6000 lb) or UT8 (8000 lb), and just rent the 10 if you ever need it.


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## haltonelectrician (May 27, 2011)

G6 turbo all the way. Maxis 6k is junk. Used both extensively


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## Tyler OLE (Dec 16, 2020)

WronGun said:


> G6 turbo looks nice
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





WronGun said:


> G6 turbo looks nice
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


G6 turbo all the way! we've had ours for about a little over a year now and its worth every bit of its weight and gold


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Tyler OLE said:


> G6 turbo all the way! we've had ours for about a little over a year now and its worth every bit of its weight and gold


Trying to gauge what kind of wire this can pull. Can you give me an example of your biggest wire pull you’ve done with this? 

I have a tendency to always go bigger but it’s already a hassle to get my 555CX around. I don’t have a lift gate truck. 


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Also how does this mount to the floor ? Like if I’m pulling from a ceiling can 


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## Yankee77 (Oct 5, 2020)

Tonedeaf said:


> your right my $12,000.00 greenlee puller will last a forever sitting in my shop....I haven't used it in 15 years.


Use your preferred tuggar equally as much as a greenlee tuggar and the greenlee tuggar wins ever.single.time! I’ve used quite a few tuggars, maxis was favorite to set up, but won’t outlast green lee.


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## Yankee77 (Oct 5, 2020)

Pulling cart setup for ceiling pull


WronGun said:


> Also how does this mount to the floor ? Like if I’m pulling from a ceiling can
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

I’ve pulled with a boom tugger twice in my life. I’m not that old but in my time everything we did was with a floor mount and pulleys. If a can is 15’ high off the ground what good is this machine? It looks likes they all need to clamp onto a conduit, I’ve watched 30 YouTube videos last night. I think I rather stay with greenlee. A G6 with a floor mount kit option would be the most ideal I just wish it was a tad bit stronger. At the same time I think the G6 will handle all my needs. I can get my hands on a mint condition floor model/ demo unit for $4500. Seems like a decent deal, or I could get new for $6000.


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

WronGun said:


> Trying to gauge what kind of wire this can pull. Can you give me an example of your biggest wire pull you’ve done with this?


this is technically just a 4000 lb puller. If you're just doing smaller pulls, it may work for you, but it will only do 6000 lb "Momentarily". 
You don't want this puller if you're pulling 600' of 4 500mcm with a few 90s



WronGun said:


> Also how does this mount to the floor ? Like if I’m pulling from a ceiling can


I'm not positive, but I don't think this has a floor mount. it's a boom type on a handtruck mount. see the pics here: Greenlee G6




WronGun said:


> I’ve pulled with a boom tugger twice in my life. I’m not that old but in my time everything we did was with a floor mount and pulleys. If a can is 15’ high off the ground what good is this machine? It looks likes they all need to clamp onto a conduit, I’ve watched 30 YouTube videos last night. I think I rather stay with greenlee. A G6 with a floor mount kit option would be the most ideal I just wish it was a tad bit stronger. At the same time I think the G6 will handle all my needs. I can get my hands on a mint condition floor model/ demo unit for $4500. Seems like a decent deal, or I could get new for $6000.


Our most popular is the Super Tugger, 6001. It's rated at 6500 lbs max, has a floor mount and also has a boom cart available and comes with a 3' boom tube, but it can be replaced with a full length of 3" rigid to get further reach. You can also get an elbow unit to use 2 lengths of pipe to get up to 20' away from your pull box.
Greenlee 6001 Super Tugger
Ultra Tugger Boom Pacakge


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Rob-Bryant said:


> this is technically just a 4000 lb puller. If you're just doing smaller pulls, it may work for you, but it will only do 6000 lb "Momentarily".
> You don't want this puller if you're pulling 600' of 4 500mcm with a few 90s
> 
> 
> ...


Should I be scared of one that looks beat up ? I think I could get a 6001 for about $2000





















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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Rob-Bryant said:


> this is technically just a 4000 lb puller. If you're just doing smaller pulls, it may work for you, but it will only do 6000 lb "Momentarily".
> You don't want this puller if you're pulling 600' of 4 500mcm with a few 90s
> 
> 
> ...


6001 shows 4500 lbs continuous 


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

You get inventive with tuggers as time goes on. I've field fab'ed mounts to put winches like the 6001 on forklifts, hoe buckets, among other things to get it in the best place to do the job. Plus there's sheaves too.


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

WronGun said:


> Should I be scared of one that looks beat up ? I think I could get a 6001 for about $2000
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That one doesn't actually look that bad. The end cap on the motor is not broken, which is a costly repair. the black chain housings and the circuit breaker switch guard are in pretty good shape, too. the only thing that concerns me is the rust. Not sure if there is any water damage/oxidation inside the motor. 

and yes, the 6001 is rated at 4500 continuous, but it's still a much stronger motor than the G6. It's rated for 6500, but not just momentary like the G6.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I gots the Super Tugger. I believe it's rated for 8000 continuous but I could be wrong about that. Anyway , had it since the eighties. Still going. I don't tackle them sorts of jobs much now though..........


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

macmikeman said:


> I gots the Super Tugger. I believe it's rated for 8000 continuous but I could be wrong about that. Anyway , had it since the eighties. Still going. I don't tackle them sorts of jobs much now though..........


Super Tugger is the 6001, rated 6500lb, the Ultra Tugger UT8 is 8000 lb and the UT10 is 10,000. All good machines


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

I think I feel more comfortable buying a new one, whatever. I’m going to charge 60% of the cost of this tool to the customer. 


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Rob-Bryant said:


> Super Tugger is the 6001, rated 6500lb, the Ultra Tugger UT8 is 8000 lb and the UT10 is 10,000. All good machines


This is the package I’m looking at, I can always get the boom package later if I ever need it.










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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

I think you should demo a unit first. A tugger is a considerable investment, just like buying a car.

I would highly encourage you try and demo a Cannon 10k before purchasing this. For us, we had our Greenlee UT10 on a particular project, but it was cumbersome and hard to get into the places we needed it to. We called up and asked to demo a Cannon 10k, of course the sales people were more than happy to do it. Used it for a bunch of wire pulls over a couple of days and then bought one. The greenlee has now been sitting in the tool room for the last few years at this point, unused.

Like I said before, those type of Greenlee's without a boom have two major flaws. They're slow and not very adaptable to different pulls without ordering/making brackets to fit each pulling scenario or putting a boom on it.

If you're in this for the long haul, it would be money WELL SPENT to find something with wheels and a boom. By the time you spread the cost out over years of ownership, it doesn't really add up to much/year. Also, you will will realize that one of those UT10's even on the high speed of 16ft/min, is incredibly slow. The Cannon 10k at 40ft/min is a comfortable speed even when dealing with bigger wire if you have it set up right.

I've done 500CU 400' through 4-90's with just two of us. And it was a comfortable pull, not a back breaking type pull, where you are flat worn out when it's finished.

No wheels, no boom, and slow pulls cost you money in additional labor. Take into account your reduced long term lower labor costs versus the short term lower upfront purchase price.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

The boom and wheels are really nice, most times you can get it done with just that and the adapters unless you are pulling out of a box way up or something else odd. 

You can always accumulate as you go or as you find deals. No matter what you're gonna accumulate, our one greenlee lives in a 24x48 gangbox wit all the extras that have been added along the way and its heavy, forklift, overhead or one of use that has a crane on our service rig has to move it.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Getting ready to order the tugger, I believe I need another piece to puzzle. 

It’s been a while for me since I’ve done this. 


I’m going to mount the tugger on the floor. I’m pulling into a trough im installing about 8’ high on the wall (2” emt). Do they make some sort of sheeve attachment I can mount to the threads on the pipe so I’m not pulling down scraping the side of the connector or even pulling the pipe outward due to the weight ? I could pull before mounting the trough but in this case I think I would need some sort of floor mounted pulley in order to pull straight down to the floor


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

WronGun said:


> Getting ready to order the tugger, I believe I need another piece to puzzle.
> 
> It’s been a while for me since I’ve done this.
> 
> ...


If you can't you set up with the pulley on the end of the boom inside the trough, can you pull first and then thread the trough on the wire?


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

they don't thread in, but Greenlee makes the feeding sheave that slides into the pipe. I asked my sales rep in the past, he said even though they are made for the feeding end, many people use them on the puller side. Especially if you are pulling down on an angle, the sheave insert will lock up inside the pipe and not pull out like if you were pulling straight out of the pipe. Otherwise, a Hook Sheave mounted to the ceiling or floor


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

Rob-Bryant said:


> they don't thread in, but Greenlee makes the feeding sheave that slides into the pipe. I asked my sales rep in the past, he said even though they are made for the feeding end, many people use them on the puller side. Especially if you are pulling down on an angle, the sheave insert will lock up inside the pipe and not pull out like if you were pulling straight out of the pipe. Otherwise, a Hook Sheave mounted to the ceiling or floor
> 
> View attachment 153880
> View attachment 153881


I suppose I can pull through the pipe with tugger directly below mounted on floor and then slide the tough in after. 


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

splatz said:


> If you can't you set up with the pulley on the end of the boom inside the trough, can you pull first and then thread the trough on the wire?


Try to avoid mounting the tugger in a way that the pulling force is disconnected from the piping you are pulling through. I’ve seen the tops of panels and switchgear cabs get crushed. I realize it can’t always be avoided. 


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

VELOCI3 said:


> Try to avoid mounting the tugger in a way that the pulling force is disconnected from the piping you are pulling through. I’ve seen the tops of panels and switchgear cabs get crushed. I realize it can’t always be avoided.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe I’ll bring the pipe to floor level with a bent 90 and mount it to strut/steel anchors. I’m really trying to avoid having to get the versiboom right now. That will give me a straight pull to the tugger


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

WronGun said:


> Should I be scared of one that looks beat up ? I think I could get a 6001 for about $2000
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like it’s missing the motor brush


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## CMP (Oct 30, 2019)

I'll show you what I use on almost every pull that needs a puller. It's old and slow like Cow mentioned earlier, but there are workarounds to speed things up and make things easier. If your not doing big pulls on every job this is another way to go, for a lot less cost and bulk.

Years ago with a partner we bought a smaller boom puller without any accessories, like your getting ready to do. Every time we tried to use it we would damage the enclosures or the piping. I hated it, until I looked up the accessories. I didn't want a pipe adapter required for every pipe size, and different pulling setup, but they had a clamp on model that would work on all pipe sizes. When we got that, things got a lot better. Then I learned better, how to work with it in many various situations. 

Well that was many years ago. When I went solo it was time to procure another unit, just like you are. I shopped around and got a used kit from a tool dealer, with the gang box. It's a full kit, but still didn't suit my needs most times, and there's a lot of bulk to haul around, similar to what a cart puller requires.










I wanted a small clamp on head, like I used to have, that suits the machine work I normally do. One day driving down the road I saw a small rope sheave laying in the road, likely fell off of some utility truck. Stopped and picked it up to make myself the head attachment, like I wanted. It needed to fit 1-1/2 to 4" for my work. So from memory I fabricated one up like the one I had used previously. The sheave is small and fits in much tighter areas than the ones that came with my kit.

I took a decent look online at photos and couldn't find one of the old Greenlee models like we had, so I went in the back and snapped some photos of the custom creation, to give you the idea. Never did make time to paint it, and have used it for years. Shame on me.



















To avoid pulling the wire assembly around that small sheave, and damaging it, I make an extension to the pipe run for the length of conductor I need for termination. Most jobs just need a 30º or 45º bend to get you outside of the enclosure, and whatever length you need. I now have a collection of extensions that I reuse on projects, stored in a barrel.

The thing I like about this setup is it's compact and portable. One man can move and set it up. It can be setup just about anywhere, and extended with pipe for whatever length the job requires with some rigid. I have even used it set up in a manlift for some ceiling pull boxes that needed splicing. 

Most setups I screw a rigid coupling on the conduit connector in the panel or box, add a set screw connector for an EMT extension. Bend up an extension piece to suit the job at hand, and set up the puller as required. I put a rigid nipple at the end of the extension to clamp my angle head to so it don't crush and come loose during the pull. Depending on the extension length needed, it may need a temporary support for the weight of the assembly and the wire.

When the pull arrives at the end of the extension, I stop there, and remove the setup. Slide the extension off of the conductors, train the conductors to where they need to go, and button up the run.

Here's an example of a setup about 15' above the floor for an isolation transformer for a machine load.
Some 2" EMT with 3#/0 AWG about a 150' run, no muss no fuss and no skinned insulation.


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## CMP (Oct 30, 2019)

To get around the slow speed of my old tugger, you setup the equipment and rope to use the tugger as designed, at first.
Then we grab the rope and pull as much of the run as we can by hand to speed thing up as much as possible. The feeding end is the most important, if the feeder man lets the wire become twisted going into the pipe, the pull becomes much more difficult as you get further into the run length. With the simpull coating on the wire I often need very little lube, mainly on the pulling head.

As to the floor mount model, I wouldn't even consider that for what I do. That customer from those photos, would have a fit if I drilled holes in his freshly epoxy coated floor. Did you notice a chunk of plywood on the floor to protect the finish?



VELOCI3 said:


> Try to avoid mounting the tugger in a way that the pulling force is disconnected from the piping you are pulling through. I’ve seen the tops of panels and switchgear cabs get crushed. I realize it can’t always be avoided.


This is most important, you don't want to be pulling from one thing to another (floor to wall mounted conduit) with no pipe in between to take up the stress, damage will likely result. Skinning up some brand new conductors can get expensive in a hurry, delaying your progress to order some more, and worse make you look like an inexperienced idiot to your customer.
Pulling the conduit off of the wall won't look very good either.

Rob Bryant may be able to help you locate a Greenlee model attachment like the one I showed. They did make them at one time for the small tuggers. But it looks like the ones they make today are for their booms and extensions.

Here is half of a Greenlee model one with a part # on it, like the old one I had. And I have seen one other style that had a piece of angle iron in the clamp section, instead of the channel section like the ones I showed. Hope that helps...
Pipe Adapter Sheave


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## CMP (Oct 30, 2019)

Here's half of one of the other styles, same part# a bit more compact.
Greenlee #443v2


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

CMP said:


> Here's half of one of the other styles, same part# a bit more compact.
> Greenlee #443v2
> 
> View attachment 153936


Creative setup. I may need to expand my equipment for this, but this is what I was thinking. 

Instead of pulling into a can I would install the pipe down to the floor, no factory bending. And supporting it with strut on the wall and 3/8 steel anchors on the floor twice. 

Then I would just remove the last section of pipe and slide the trough up the wall.










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## CMP (Oct 30, 2019)

WronGun said:


> Creative setup. I may need to expand my equipment for this, but this is what I was thinking.
> 
> Instead of pulling into a can I would install the pipe down to the floor, no factory bending. And supporting it with strut on the wall and 3/8 steel anchors on the floor twice.
> 
> Then I would just remove the last section of pipe and slide the trough up the wall


I don't have much time today, but I think your setup as proposed could work, but I still don't like it for a few reasons.

Your still missing a direct mechanical pipe connection from the pipe run to the puller, as both Velocity and I recommend. All of the newer *boom* cart pullers would also give you that type connection.

You will have 10 extra holes into the structure, for the setup that you are picturing. What if you had three similar pulls like that, that's a lot of holes into the customers structure, for a temporary setup. 

The bolt down winch won't have the flexibility to adapting later to a pipe mounted setup like I showed in my example. The other used pullers shown earlier all had a pipe mount, but were missing the chains. I recommend getting a pipe mount style, complete with chains. In the event you need a bolt down mount, they have adapter mounts for that, nothing more than a piece of pipe with some angle iron brackets welded on. Look in my gang box photo, lower left corner, you will see one, never used the thing. But it would do exactly the same thing your sketch shows.

Something else to think of in your mounting setup, is how the leading edge of the rope leaves your capstan. It needs to be lined up with the center of your conduit, both horizontally and vertically, or it will chew up your expensive rope in short order. That takes more measuring and setup time to make that happen for every pull setup you do.

If I was doing your pull with my gear as shown, it would just need a short 30º bend extension, coming out of the top of your trough. Attach the pipe clamp head, and a stick of rigid to mount the puller on. No sliding the trough over the conductors, and no holes in the customers structure.

Spend some time looking at the pulling accessories, and the angle sheave heads that are offered, to get some ideas. Both at Greenlee and on ebay or marketplace. Use search engine photos pages to see many different vintages and styles. 

That's all the time I have for now.


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## WronGun (Oct 18, 2013)

CMP said:


> I don't have much time today, but I think your setup as proposed could work, but I still don't like it for a few reasons.
> 
> Your still missing a direct mechanical pipe connection from the pipe run to the puller, as both Velocity and I recommend. All of the newer *boom* cart pullers would also give you that type connection.
> 
> ...


I hear what you’re saying. I plan on the boom cart for the UT-10 im just trying to avoid buying it now as im spending 6k for the tugger. 

I’m pulling (3) 3/0 and (1) #3 about 240’ 

I don’t have issues with drilling on the floor for this job. 

Next job I will invest in the versi boom. 


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