# Toe Kick Lighting



## JamisonElectric (11 mo ago)

Hey All,

I am looking for a solution to extend some toe kick lighting on a portion of a kitchen cabinet that is a hidden door. The lighting is 24V and have been unsuccessful in tracking a solution that would allow power to be broken when the cabinet opens but makes contact when the cabinet is closed. Anyone know of a good solution for this type of installation.

Thank you


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

N.O. plunger switch would work


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## JamisonElectric (11 mo ago)

jw0445 said:


> N.O. plunger switch would work


I need to be able to continue the 24V to the side of the cabinet that opens. The stationary portion of the cabinet has the 24V lighting. Plunger switches that I have seen won’t be an option for this application. 


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

You need it to break contact when it opens and make contact when it’s closed?


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## JamisonElectric (11 mo ago)

Yes


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

I dont understand what you are trying to say. Can you draw a picture or something?


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

JamisonElectric said:


> I need to be able to continue the 24V to the side of the cabinet that opens. The stationary portion of the cabinet has the 24V lighting. Plunger switches that I have seen won’t be an option for this application.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


then you need a jbox and/or a jumper around the switch for the other that will remain on


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## Texan77 (Jan 1, 2022)

Can you feed it from the hinged side with a flexible jumper? Or is it a removable panel/drawer?


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## JamisonElectric (11 mo ago)

The 24V power comes from the stationary side of the cabinet. Getting power to the hinged side of the cabinet is not an option at this point. I cannot use a jumper or jbox. The whole cabinet opens including the toe kick portion. I will draw something for visual. 


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

JamisonElectric said:


> The 24V power comes from the stationary side of the cabinet. Getting power to the hinged side of the cabinet is not an option at this point. I cannot use a jumper or jbox. The whole cabinet opens including the toe kick portion. I will draw something for visual.


The answer is still a plunger switch but I think you actually want NC contacts. Are you an electrician?


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

splatz said:


> The answer is still a plunger switch but I think you actually want NC contacts. Are you an electrician?


I'm thinking the plunger at rest would be open and when the door is closed it makes contact. No?


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

jw0445 said:


> I'm thinking the plunger at rest would be open and when the door is closed it makes contact. No?


Yes, I think "normal" is plunger-up. I am thinking you'd want the light out when the door is closed like the refrigerator, but maybe the OP wants the opposite?


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

From post #1
I am looking for a solution to extend some toe kick lighting on a portion of a kitchen cabinet that is a hidden door. The lighting is 24V and have been unsuccessful in tracking a solution that would allow power to be broken when the cabinet opens but makes contact when the cabinet is closed. Anyone know of a good solution for this type of installation.

Thank you


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## JamisonElectric (11 mo ago)

The plunger switch needs power, it will not transfer power from one side of the toe kick to the other side when the cabinet is closed. I need to get power from one side of the stationary toe to the hinged side (with no power) when the hinged side of the cabinet is closed. I am very familiar with a plunger switches and their operation as we use them often in restaurants, grocery stores etc for fly fans. If I am unaware of one that will transfer 24V from one side of the cabinet to the other can you send me a link to your solution. I would greatly appreciate it. Yes I am an electrical contractor. 


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## Texan77 (Jan 1, 2022)




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## JamisonElectric (11 mo ago)

Right on!! I will take a look at them. Thank you Texan77 


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