# Question about kitchen cabinets



## lightman (Oct 14, 2015)

When you guys wire a new house or do a remodel, and you have an island or bar in the kitchen, who cuts the holes for the boxes? Provisions have been made to bring power into the unit from the bottom. It would be great if the cabinet guy would do it, But?


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

If it is a special veneer or something expensive I'd ask the cabinet guy. Standard finishes I do it myself after getting the location approved by the lady of the house.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Chances are that the cabinet guy is gone by the time you arrive on site to do finishing. Besides that, I have never seen a cabinet guy cut holes for electrical. I'll try to rope the GC into cutting them. If not, cover it with painter's tape and use a Hackzall with a jigsaw blade.


----------



## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

I've worked with really good and really bad cabinet guys. If the guy is good
and I don't have to wait too long then I prefer to have them do it. Still like
to be there so I can get it exactly where I want it. 
If you do it yourself, lots of masking tape on the cupboard and the saw shoe
will reduce marring as well as chipping. Then again my favourite saw is the 
oscillating type where there is no shoe. 
P&L


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

PlugsAndLights said:


> I've worked with really good and really bad cabinet guys. If the guy is good
> and I don't have to wait too long then I prefer to have them do it. Still like
> to be there so I can get it exactly where I want it.
> If you do it yourself, lots of masking tape on the cupboard and the saw shoe
> ...


I use the reverse tooth blade in a jig saw for cabinet cut outs.


----------



## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I have gone to putting plugmold under the granite but on the cabinet. Out of
site. easy peasy.


----------



## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

sbrn33 said:


> I have gone to putting plugmold under the granite but on the cabinet. Out of
> site. easy peasy.


Pictures?
P&L


----------



## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Pictures?
> P&L


I will look when I get a chance and see if I have any. I just put it under the overhang but mount it facing out so I can mount it to the wood. Cut to length.


----------



## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

I use masking tape and a fein oscillating multi tool


----------



## telsa (May 22, 2015)

electricguy said:


> I use masking tape and a fein oscillating multi tool


That's the ticket.


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Ive always cut my own holes but I use angled plug mold when budget allows


----------



## lightman (Oct 14, 2015)

Thanks Guys! I'm hoping that either the cabinet guy or the GC will do it. Its not there yet, so I haven't seen it. Kinda hoping theres enough overhang that I can mount a surface mount box. Something like a wiremold box, under each end or on the sides. I hear you, about where ever the Lady of the house wants it! There are so many unknowns in resi work!


----------



## ktown (May 15, 2014)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Pictures?
> P&L


Hey P&L: have you ever used plugmold in a kitchen? I hear it used in the states quite often, but we recently tried using it on a kitchen remodel and the ESA inspector flat-out refused to pass it. His interpretation of "wall space" in section 26 was that the receptacles had to be in the wall... Might get away with it on an island though.

Luckily it was the rough-in inspection and we were able to have the cabinet guys make a false bottom and flush-mount some 1104's.

As for the OP: We get cabinet guys to cut out for custom kitchens, no exceptions. Otherwise its painters tape and an oscillating tool. Typically we leave a box on site for the cabinet guys to size to, but the really high end kitchen companies around here have ready-made templates for all the different boxes and the cabinets are cut-out right from their shop.


----------



## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

ktown said:


> Hey P&L: have you ever used plugmold in a kitchen? I hear it used in the states quite often, but we recently tried using it on a kitchen remodel and the ESA inspector flat-out refused to pass it. His interpretation of "wall space" in section 26 was that the receptacles had to be in the wall... Might get away with it on an island though.
> 
> Luckily it was the rough-in inspection and we were able to have the cabinet guys make a false bottom and flush-mount some 1104's.
> 
> As for the OP: We get cabinet guys to cut out for custom kitchens, no exceptions. Otherwise its painters tape and an oscillating tool. Typically we leave a box on site for the cabinet guys to size to, but the really high end kitchen companies around here have ready-made templates for all the different boxes and the cabinets are cut-out right from their shop.


I would love to see what they dinged you on for plugmold. As long as it is GFCI/AFCI protected they have nothing. A spine can be a hard thing to find.


----------



## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

ktown said:


> Hey P&L: have you ever used plugmold in a kitchen? I hear it used in the states quite often, but we recently tried using it on a kitchen remodel and the ESA inspector flat-out refused to pass it. His interpretation of "wall space" in section 26 was that the receptacles had to be in the wall... Might get away with it on an island though.
> 
> Luckily it was the rough-in inspection and we were able to have the cabinet guys make a false bottom and flush-mount some 1104's.
> 
> As for the OP: We get cabinet guys to cut out for custom kitchens, no exceptions. Otherwise its painters tape and an oscillating tool. Typically we leave a box on site for the cabinet guys to size to, but the really high end kitchen companies around here have ready-made templates for all the different boxes and the cabinets are cut-out right from their shop.


What a load of crap. Plugmold is used all the time in the US AND Canada to meet the wall space requirements for receptacles. That guy would have had to pass the job or fight in the yard.


----------



## ktown (May 15, 2014)

sbrn33 said:


> I would love to see what they dinged you on for plugmold. As long as it is GFCI/AFCI protected they have nothing. A spine can be a hard thing to find.


It wasn't my project so I kept out of it.

I agree that the inspector was being particularly picky, but I also know plugmold is a lot harder to make compliant with the CEC rules _in a kitchen_. We had to have GFCI around the sink, split 15A outlets with TR because legrand only does TR in 15 amp, and only 4 outlets per split circuit. This meant custom-made plugmold (because customer wanted stainless steel) and 3 GFCI breakers at 220$ each. 

The fact that the inspector didn't pass it was an easy excuse to get rid of the plugmold without the customer blaming us as much. In my opinion, the regular receptacles mounted in the cabinet looked much better anyways.


----------



## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

Anyone been able to sell customers pop up receptacles for a kitchen counter


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

electricguy said:


> Anyone been able to sell customers pop up receptacles for a kitchen counter


Never tried. Not a fan of them.


----------



## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

ktown said:


> Hey P&L: have you ever used plugmold in a kitchen? I hear it used in the states quite often, but we recently tried using it on a kitchen remodel and the ESA inspector flat-out refused to pass it. His interpretation of "wall space" in section 26 was that the receptacles had to be in the wall... Might get away with it on an island though.
> .


No, I haven't tried plugmold in a kitchen. Wouldn't even consider it for
regular counter space. Think it might have a place in islands/peninsulas. 
P&L


----------



## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

RePhase277 said:


> What a load of crap. Plugmold is used all the time in the US AND Canada to meet the wall space requirements for receptacles. That guy would have had to pass the job or fight in the yard.


Guess we do things differently up here. Occasionally appeal a decision 
but don't generally assault inspectors, or anyone else. 
P&L


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

PlugsAndLights said:


> No, I haven't tried plugmold in a kitchen. Wouldn't even consider it for
> regular counter space. Think it might have a place in islands/peninsulas.
> P&L


The time I have had it requested it was done to keep receptacles out of back splashes. So I've installed it on the bottom of cabinets. Also had a few jobs where the switches were done in the same fashion. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

zac said:


> The time I have had it requested it was done to keep receptacles out of back splashes. So I've installed it on the bottom of cabinets. Also had a few jobs where the switches were done in the same fashion.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


Who wants to bend down and look up to plug something in? Will 
the dozens of future owners think that was a good idea or a dumb 
fad? 
Then again, I did put all the switches in a big house at knee height 
a couple years ago. Owner loved it cuz it didn't interfere with his 
art. I thought it looked stupid. 
P&L


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

PlugsAndLights said:


> No, I haven't tried plugmold in a kitchen. Wouldn't even consider it for
> regular counter space. Think it might have a place in islands/peninsulas.
> P&L


Installed on the wall at the space just underneath the top cabinets it is out of sight and provides a neater look with busy backsplash patterns. Some designers ask for this.


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Who wants to bend down and look up to plug something in? Will
> the dozens of future owners think that was a good idea or a dumb
> fad?
> Then again, I did put all the switches in a big house at knee height
> ...


People want it done so that the back splash isn't cluttered. I think it looks o.k. The issue for me is you see the cords drape down. I think its a solid piece of granite...why not? A better solution for me would be custom colored devices. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

zac said:


> People want it done so that the back splash isn't cluttered. I think it looks o.k. The issue for me is if you see the cords drape down, kinda drapey. I think its a solid piece of granite...why not? A better solution for me would be custom colored devices.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk




Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Guess we do things differently up here. Occasionally appeal a decision
> but don't generally assault inspectors, or anyone else.
> P&L


Uh oh. Triggered!


----------



## 350X (May 20, 2016)

lightman, I've made a habit to cut in all my boxes for various reasons. I even get paid for it. 

I've used corner mold on several houses lately, they all had full granite back splash. They turned out awesome! If needed, put gfi's in dining. As far as the complaint about bending over to plug in, it's a minor procedure for most. 







not my job, but I like it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 350X (May 20, 2016)

RePhase277 said:


> What a load of crap. Plugmold is used all the time in the US AND Canada to meet the wall space requirements for receptacles. That guy would have had to pass the job or fight in the yard.




I've got a real story about this, regarding a very hot tempered boss I had, but I don't want to imply us Americans are crazy. I'll just say ^^^^thats funny. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

Cut it yourself that is almost always the requirement. Use an occilating multi tool or a rotozip both leave less to chance with foobaring the cabinet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

For years I would score the cabinet for the box, drill a hole in opposite corners and use my sawzall. The cabinet guy and builders would freak out but I never had a problem- scoring the cabinet a bit larger than the box is critical.

Today we use the sillite receptacles because it is so much easier and looks better. 1 3/4" hole saw or a self feeder bit work well.


----------



## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

Multitool/oscillating tool and masking tape is how I do it. Also try to get the (female) owners blessing. Would rather cut an OWWC into a cabinet before I put in a wiremold box or plugmold. 

I hate plugmold in general and hate the trend of using it in kitchens. No matter what, there will be something to see, either a receptacle and wall plate or a mess of dangling cords. I'd rather rough in just the wiring ahead of time and then coordinate with tile guy where I can cut in an OWWC that would be aesthetically pleasing and not disrupt the layout. 

Also, then I can make sure that he doesn't eff up the finish depth of box and proper device installation. For all the work we do in the walls and in the basements/attics, and the knowledge to do it code compliant, at the end of the day that receptacle or switch is all the homeowner is going to see.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

What's an OWWC?


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I can't remember the details but I only screwed up an island receptacle once. I ended up making a single gang into a two gang. The client was an architect. I told her I always put in two receptacles and she loved it  .


----------



## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

*just*



350X said:


> I've got a real story about this, regarding a very hot tempered boss I had, but I don't want to imply us Americans are crazy. I'll just say ^^^^thats funny.


US Americans are crazy, but apparently not as crazy as Canadian inspectors who turn down plugmold for no reason, or Canadians who take silly things too seriously. Eh?


----------



## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

99cents said:


> What's an OWWC?


Ozark Wilderness Waterways Club. He's obviously speaking metaphorically. "Cut an OWWC into a cabinet." means " take a refreshing trip down a wild mountain river."


----------



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

My guys use the oscillating tool but it takes too long for me-- I don't have a lot of patience on the job. The sawzall was a major tool for me. My guys don't use it much. 

Times have changed and methods have also. My guys rarely do things as I have done. When I roughed in a house I had 3 cords setup with the long neck drill for overhead, the angle drill for thru studs and the straight drill for drill down into the crawl- it had the longer auger. My guys use the long neck for everything. They use cordless all the time for smaller jobs... That's why they burn them up so often- they are not really made for drill thru studs all day long.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

RePhase277 said:


> Ozark Wilderness Waterways Club. He's obviously speaking metaphorically. "Cut an OWWC into a cabinet." means " take a refreshing trip down a wild mountain river."


You're doing better than me. I looked it up and I found a floor warming mat  .


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

Dennis Alwon said:


> My guys use the oscillating tool but it takes too long for me-- I don't have a lot of patience on the job. The sawzall was a major tool for me. My guys don't use it much.
> 
> Times have changed and methods have also. My guys rarely do things as I have done. When I roughed in a house I had 3 cords setup with the long neck drill for overhead, the angle drill for thru studs and the straight drill for drill down into the crawl- it had the longer auger. My guys use the long neck for everything. They use cordless all the time for smaller jobs... That's why they burn them up so often- they are not really made for drill thru studs all day long.


I agree with you Dennis on the oscillating tool. It makes clean precise cuts though.

I'm small potatoes and don't know your size or scope of work. With that being said I haven't had any issues with my Milwaukee fuel for doing all my corded duties in residential. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

99cents said:


> You're doing better than me. I looked it up and I fond a floor warming mat  .


It's OK. At least you can admit failure. It's all about reading between the lines and getting to the meat of a subject. In this case, the guy is overworked and needing a stress-relieving getaway. When you're as homely as me, you learn to look inward.


----------



## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

99cents said:


> What's an OWWC?



Old Work Wall Case. 

Learned from the old timers I apprenticed under. They preferred the metal ones and Madison Bars, but I've switched over to plastic now. Still keep a few metal on the truck, just in case.


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

drewsserviceco said:


> Old Work Wall Case.
> 
> Learned from the old timers I apprenticed under. They preferred the metal ones and Madison Bars, but I've switched over to plastic now. Still keep a few metal on the truck, just in case.


Gotcha. We're not allowed those in Canada. Our electrons are different.


----------



## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

Dennis Alwon said:


> My guys use the oscillating tool but it takes too long for me-- I don't have a lot of patience on the job. The sawzall was a major tool for me. My guys don't use it much.
> 
> Times have changed and methods have also. My guys rarely do things as I have done. When I roughed in a house I had 3 cords setup with the long neck drill for overhead, the angle drill for thru studs and the straight drill for drill down into the crawl- it had the longer auger. My guys use the long neck for everything. They use cordless all the time for smaller jobs... That's why they burn them up so often- they are not really made for drill thru studs all day long.




Get the Milwaukee m18 battery powered hole hawg. That baby is a beast


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> For years I would score the cabinet for the box, drill a hole in opposite corners and use my sawzall. The cabinet guy and builders would freak out but I never had a problem- scoring the cabinet a bit larger than the box is critical.
> 
> Today we use the sillite receptacles because it is so much easier and looks better. 1 3/4" hole saw or a self feeder bit work well.


Holesaw is cool, self-feed on hardwood _foolish_!


----------



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Holesaw is cool, self-feed on hardwood _foolish_!


Why-- self feed bit is what I have use for the sillites. Not this brand but they make a beautiful hole


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Why-- self feed bit is what I have use for the sillites. Not this brand but they make a beautiful hole


Because in oak or cherry or another hardwood that lead screw tip has a great chance of splitting a board. In essence it is no more than a screw powered wedge. The tip isn't a cutting device.

They are best used in soft woods like framing materials.


----------



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Because in oak or cherry or another hardwood that lead screw tip has a great chance of splitting a board. In essence it is no more than a screw powered wedge. The tip isn't a cutting device.
> 
> They are best used in soft woods like framing materials.


The tip can screw up-- so what you won't see it with an 1 3/4 hole. Never had a problem and have done it for years. If you have used sillite receptacles then you would know there is very little play and that bit has done me fine.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> The tip can screw up-- so what you won't see it with an 1 3/4 hole. Never had a problem and have done it for years. If you have used sillite receptacles then you would know there is very little play and that bit has done me fine.


Then I'd bet most of the cabinets you bored through are veneer over a baseply.

You wouldn't do many in good wood without splitting a board or ripping it apart.

Been there and seen it happen several times over the years. 

I was there when a young locksmith ruined a 100+ year old door with a 2 1/8" self feed boring for a deadbolt, the forstner bit he was told to use was going too slow for him.


----------



## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

That sillites is a great idea.


----------



## daks (Jan 16, 2013)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Guess we do things differently up here. Occasionally appeal a decision
> but don't generally assault inspectors, or anyone else.
> P&L


 Ummmm, well... do drywallers count? :whistling2:


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

daks said:


> Ummmm, well... do drywallers count? :whistling2:


They only count if they are holding you up!


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

350X said:


> lightman, I've made a habit to cut in all my boxes for various reasons. I even get paid for it.
> 
> I've used corner mold on several houses lately, they all had full granite back splash. They turned out awesome! If needed, put gfi's in dining. As far as the complaint about bending over to plug in, it's a minor procedure for most.
> 
> ...


I used that stuff on a job about a year ago. It looked kind of cheap to me and was a pita to install.


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

ktown said:


> Hey P&L: have you ever used plugmold in a kitchen? I hear it used in the states quite often, but we recently tried using it on a kitchen remodel and the ESA inspector flat-out refused to pass it. *His interpretation of "wall space" in section 26 was that the receptacles had to be in the wall...* Might get away with it on an island though.
> 
> Luckily it was the rough-in inspection and we were able to have the cabinet guys make a false bottom and flush-mount some 1104's.
> 
> As for the OP: We get cabinet guys to cut out for custom kitchens, no exceptions. Otherwise its painters tape and an oscillating tool. Typically we leave a box on site for the cabinet guys to size to, but the really high end kitchen companies around here have ready-made templates for all the different boxes and the cabinets are cut-out right from their shop.


lmao......that is the most idiotic inspector's interpretation I have ever heard. I would have laughed in his face and demanded to speak with his boss.

Almost as stupid as the inspector a few years back that told me the bare copper wire between the 2 ground rods had to be buried 24". Called his boss and got that straightened out in a matter of minutes.


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

electricguy said:


> Anyone been able to sell customers pop up receptacles for a kitchen counter


Do you know of any that are UL listed and hardwired? They had some on the market about 10 years or so ago but they were discontinued shortly after.

All of the ones I have seen for sale come with a cord that plugs in. They would not be code compliant for spacing requirements since they arent hardwired.


----------



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

drspec said:


> Do you know of any that are UL listed and hardwired? They had some on the market about 10 years or so ago but they were discontinued shortly after.
> 
> All of the ones I have seen for sale come with a cord that plugs in. They would not be code compliant for spacing requirements since they arent hardwired.


Those were the Mocketts which are back on the market and the direct wired ones are quite expensive

http://www.mockett.com/pcs77-23g.html


----------



## 350X (May 20, 2016)

drspec said:


> I used that stuff on a job about a year ago. It looked kind of cheap to me and was a pita to install.




Corner mold doesn't require you to go upside down when plugging into. 

Bottom line is if the customer is ok with it, so am I. 
Now if they wanted a pop up receptacle, I would highly discourage it. In fact, I'd be no part of something so asinine. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Those were the Mocketts which are back on the market and the direct wired ones are quite expensive
> 
> http://www.mockett.com/pcs77-23g.html


thats good to know they are available again even if it looks like theyre out of the price range for most jobs


----------



## ktown (May 15, 2014)

drspec said:


> lmao......that is the most idiotic inspector's interpretation I have ever heard. I would have laughed in his face and demanded to speak with his boss.


Yeah, this was the same inspector that tried to explain how code is just a minimum requirement and we should always try to exceed code. I can see where he was coming from, but he genuinely believed that _every_ code should be exceeded at all times... always upsize wire, always strap more than needed, always supply more receptacles than needed, etc.


----------



## 350X (May 20, 2016)

350X said:


> In fact, I'd be no part of something so asinine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's wasn't appropriate. My apologies. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

ktown said:


> I agree that the inspector was being particularly picky, but I also know plugmold is a lot harder to make compliant with the CEC rules _in a kitchen_. We had to have GFCI around the sink, split 15A outlets with TR because legrand only does TR in 15 amp, and only 4 outlets per split circuit.


4 outlets per circuit? On the counter?


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

eddy current said:


> 4 outlets per circuit? On the counter?


Four single receptacles.


----------



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

The new wiremold pop up boxes with usb ports don't look too bad if you need to go that route. I installed two in black granite and they aren't bad for what they are. Pricey, yes. I haven't tried the Arlington flavor yet. I had a sample on hand and felt comfortable with the product so that's what I went with.


----------



## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

drspec said:


> Do you know of any that are UL listed and hardwired? They had some on the market about 10 years or so ago but they were discontinued shortly after.
> 
> All of the ones I have seen for sale come with a cord that plugs in. They would not be code compliant for spacing requirements since they arent hardwired.


I will have to look to see what is Approved now.. did hear that there was some non listed ones years ago and we could not use them.


----------



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Here's the Arlington kind:

http://www.aimedia.co/media/catalog-pages/Q-19.pdf


----------



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Here's the wiremold version installed:


----------



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

http://www.legrand.us/wiremold/work-surface/dqff-dequorum-flip-up-table-box-field-wired.aspx


----------



## Patriot1776 (May 20, 2016)

Dennis Alwon said:


> For years I would score the cabinet for the box, drill a hole in opposite corners and use my sawzall. The cabinet guy and builders would freak out but I never had a problem- scoring the cabinet a bit larger than the box is critical.
> 
> Today we use the sillite receptacles because it is so much easier and looks better. 1 3/4" hole saw or a self feeder bit work well.




I've never run into this type of product but I like how compact it is! I wouldn't use a self feed but for those holes though they are too aggressive for the finish work, go with a high quality forstner bit and make sure that baby stays razor sharp! They cut a cleaner neater hole - that's why they are used by fine woodworkers. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Patriot1776 said:


> I've never run into this type of product but I like how compact it is! I wouldn't use a self feed but for those holes though they are too aggressive for the finish work, go with a high quality forstner bit and make sure that baby stays razor sharp! They cut a cleaner neater hole - that's why they are used by fine woodworkers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My guys like the hole saw the best. I have used forstners also


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

99cents said:


> Four single receptacles.


LOL. Good one. Seriously though you can still only have two per circuit, single plex or duplex.

Code doesn't say "no more than two duplex receptacles....". It says " no more than two outlets". CEC. 26-722(b)(i)


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

eddy current said:


> LOL. Good one. Seriously though you can still only have two per circuit, single plex or duplex.
> 
> Code doesn't say "no more than two duplex receptacles....". It says " no more than two outlets". CEC. 26-722(b)(i)


Seriously? I would talk to my inspector if the situation ever came up.


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

99cents said:


> Seriously? I would talk to my inspector if the situation ever came up.


They wont pass it. What's is stopping someone from changing your single plex with douplex's after inspection?


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

eddy current said:


> They wont pass it. What's is stopping someone from changing your single plex with douplex's after inspection?


In a word: NOTHING!


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

eddy current said:


> They wont pass it. What's is stopping someone from changing your single plex with douplex's after inspection?


True but anything can be effed up after inspection. I see your point, though  .


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> True but anything can be effed up after inspection. I see your point, though  .


YES anything can be aborted after inspection,

but some things scream *CHANGE ME* and others not so much.


----------



## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> YES anything can be aborted after inspection,
> 
> but some things scream *CHANGE ME* and others not so much.


Single plex outlets on a kitchen counter do scream "change me".


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

eddy current said:


> Single plex outlets on a kitchen counter do scream "change me".


Loud and clear!

With the man of the house saying what kind of idiot electrician did this?????


----------



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Plugmold just screams "add on" anyway.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Plugmold just screams "add on" anyway.


Not if it is all that's there.


----------



## lightman (Oct 14, 2015)

Just a follow up on my question. The builder cut the holes out and mounted a box on each end for me. He even left the top off so I had easy access to my wire. I liked some of the ideas that you guys suggested but just ended up with a single gang box. I had my saber saw, a roll of painters tape and a couple of old work boxes loaded up if I needed them but the GC saved me the work.


----------



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I've installed black TR plugmold that went with the cabinet and countertop colors. It's not my go to choice, but you need to be creative often to install receptacles in islands and peninsulas.


----------



## lightman (Oct 14, 2015)

Thats true. I've done several over the years but I don't like cutting holes in expensive cabinets. Mine have come out looking neat, even better than some that the carpenters cut, but it still makes me nervous!


----------



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I don't know if it has been mentioned but in the 2017 NEC a counter receptacle can qualify for the needed receptacle for a peninsula as long as the countertop is continuous with no disruptions from sinks, ranges etc


----------



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I sat through the review this weekend and saw that. Will save some time and some aggravation.


----------



## lightman (Oct 14, 2015)

Thats worth bringing up for discussion, although this was a free standing island. Probably not covered in this. I have a peninsula in my kitchen and it may not meet code! My Wife is really domesticated and we have never missed having a receptacle here, so go figger!


----------

