# Tips for Tapcons



## running dummy (Mar 19, 2009)

I've used this tip on old block that just can't hold for ****. Cut a piece of 12 wire, strip it then put that side by side with the screw. Run them both in together and the wire will wedge it in real nice


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

I use to have the same problem. I stopped clearing the bit and reaming the hole. Just try to make them snug not tight. They will hold better. That's what worked for me and now I'm happy with them.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

Try using a bit one size smaller than the one that comes with the Tapcons.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

InPhase277 said:


> Try using a bit one size smaller than the one that comes with the Tapcons.


I always found it funny that the directions say to use the Tapcon bits. They are just masonry bits. I will try the smaller size bits on some blocks at home for a test.
Will try the wire also.


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## mdfriday (May 14, 2007)

Do not over-tighten...if you do, use a piece of wire as mentioned above.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> I sometimes have to use Tapcons and have trouble getting them tight in concrete blocks. If I run them in all the way with my cordless drill, they just spin and are not tight. I'm not ramming them in, just running them in slowly. I've found that if I run them almost up with the drill, then finish tightening with a screwdriver they will be tighter. However, even that doesn't work all the time. I am using the drill bit that comes with the Tapcons.
> Any suggestions for getting them tight in blocks?
> 
> Also, what holds best when mounting plywood backing for a panel in blocks?


Any suggestions for this?


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## Stab&Shoot (Aug 23, 2011)

If you're mounting something heavy, try a Redhead concrete anchor. They come in all sizes. Real strong.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

Tapcons are for TAPping CONcrete. They're not going to work in softer or more brittle materials, like blocks.

For blocks I use expanding anchors. One type is a stud with a wedge at the bottom and an expanding sleeve (not just a ring or collar). Or, larger sizes of the traditional plastic anchor.

I have had limited success with the 'hammer-in' studs. These studs have a pin that you hammer in, that expands the base of the stud. There's not a lot of room for an oversize hole. I do not use these for anything smaller then 1/4" studs; I've had zero success with the smaller ones.


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## running dummy (Mar 19, 2009)

I have also used hilti products for this. They use the same screw for both applications but have separate bits for concrete or block. They work very well


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## Podagrower (Mar 16, 2008)

Amish Electrician said:


> Tapcons are for TAPping CONcrete. They're not going to work in softer or more brittle materials, like blocks.
> 
> For blocks I use expanding anchors. One type is a stud with a wedge at the bottom and an expanding sleeve (not just a ring or collar). Or, larger sizes of the traditional plastic anchor.


Their pullout strength in hollow block is listed on the package, yes it is less than solid concrete. Also, if you look at the driver supplied in the Condrive kits, it has a lip on it to disengage the fastener before it bottoms out. 
Using the supplied drill bit for block makes a hole just a little too big, in poured concrete, it is almost perfect, and in brick, you better break out the impact driver to tighten the fastener.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

I have one drill with a slightly bent arbor that wallows the hole. Make sure that is not your problem.


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## electricalwiz (Mar 12, 2011)

Little-Lectric said:


> Any suggestions for this?



I use toggle bolts for mounting plywood to block


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## jmellc (Feb 25, 2011)

I have tried them a dozen times & never had any luck with them. Others love them. The wire shim sounds like a good idea. I like plastic anchors for most block apps. #10 kit is most common, #12 kits can be found & #14 anchors & screws can sometimes be found as separate units.


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

Tap cons are widely used here in commercial work. I have found every so often it will bother me to drill another hole when drilling in a area where exposed work is happening. Instead of being a hack and drilling another hole take a small piece of #12 or what ever and insert into the hole then drive the tap con in. If work is not exposed I just relocate the hole.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

I use AJ's and a hollow wall set. 1/4-20 or larger. Lasts forever and easy to remove later.


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## sstlouis03 (Jun 23, 2011)

electricalwiz said:


> I use toggle bolts for mounting plywood to block


 
Thats what I was going to recommend, a 1/4" x 3" or 4" toggle bolt with 1/4" flat washer, only downside if you ever remove you are left with a 1/2" hole thats hard to repair/cover up.


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

*


Wirenuting said:



I use AJ's and a hollow wall set. 1/4-20 or larger. Lasts forever and easy to remove later.

Click to expand...

*AJ's are nice especially when you have the set tool. Alot of guys shy away from then because they are lead and will melt in a fire. Have to watch out for the Firemen. I still see guys use them and they do work nicely with the application the OP is describing. :thumbsup:


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## electricalwiz (Mar 12, 2011)

sstlouis03 said:


> Thats what I was going to recommend, a 1/4" x 3" or 4" toggle bolt with 1/4" flat washer, only downside if you ever remove you are left with a 1/2" hole thats hard to repair/cover up.



It is actually a pretty fix, put a little mortar in the hole and let it set up, come back and hit with a wet sponge, repaint and it is gone


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I hate using TAPCON's.. the hex heads snap off or the phillips tip snaps.. 

1/4" plastic anchors are what I only use now.. but I don't have to follow orders from some "pencil neck' sitting in a office without windows..


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## Podagrower (Mar 16, 2008)

B4T said:


> but I don't have to follow orders from some "pencil neck' sitting in a office without windows..


Makes it much easier to throw stones:whistling2:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Podagrower said:


> Makes it much easier to throw stones:whistling2:


:laughing::thumbup::laughing:


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## cpt_sparks (Jan 27, 2012)

Had to google aj's. I've always just called em lead anchors.


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

Ahhhhh usually it is the pencil neck geek that tells us to use plastic anchors. Plastic anchors are hack :thumbsup: They have their place for light duty. I use them every once in a while for small stuff that will not see any wear and tear.

B4T it sounds like your using tap cons on solid pour concrete. Wrong application for those. Try 1/4" drop in anchors. :thumbsup: 

Oh and who uses phillips heads for tap cons. A 5/16 hex head is what you need to drive them in. tap cons work best for block walls.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Island Electric said:


> Ahhhhh usually it is the pencil neck geek that tells us to use plastic anchors. Plastic anchors are hack :thumbsup: They have their place for light duty. I use them every once in a while for small stuff that will not see any wear and tear.
> 
> B4T it sounds like your using tap cons on solid pour concrete. Wrong application for those. Try 1/4" drop in anchors. :thumbsup:
> 
> Oh and who uses phillips heads for tap cons. A 5/16 hex head is what you need to drive them in. tap cons work best for block walls.


I only use plastic anchors to hold boxes and straps on poured concrete and block walls..

I use the 1/4" drive pin anchors when I need something strong..

I didn't know TAPCON's are not rated for poured concrete.. that was my problem..


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## electricalwiz (Mar 12, 2011)

B4T said:


> I hate using TAPCON's.. the hex heads snap off or the phillips tip snaps..
> 
> 1/4" plastic anchors are what I only use now.. but I don't have to follow orders from some "pencil neck' sitting in a office without windows..


I would not trust plastic anchors to hold CT cabinets, and larger panels, 
for resi applications you are probably fine


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## cpt_sparks (Jan 27, 2012)

I've had pretty good luck with hammer drive anchors in block. 1/4 by 1.5. I hate tapcons, but it's probably cause I don't use them correctly.


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## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

For block or hollow walls...you need the screw type tap tool.










or a toggle bolt

For solid walls










reg set tool

for 3/4" emt or j boxes...plastic anchors all day long.

Tapcons are fine. I can't remember exactly but the bit we used looked way smaller than the tapcon itself. Just use a smaller bit than what ya got. and yeah use the hex head. and yeah there best on concrete.

anyway...that's how I roll...

edit..well shucks the pics didn't show...


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

electricalwiz said:


> I would not trust plastic anchors to hold CT cabinets, and larger panels,
> for resi applications you are probably fine


For those I use 5/16" lead anchors and lag bolts..


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

cpt_sparks said:


> Had to google aj's. I've always just called em lead anchors.


Ackerman Johnson , <spelling> is the name of the company who made them. 
I still remember being "sent" to the truck the first day to get a box of AJ's... :-(


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

cultch said:


> Tapcons are fine. I can't remember exactly but the bit we used looked way smaller than the tapcon itself. Just use a smaller bit than what ya got. and yeah use the hex head. and yeah there best on concrete.
> 
> anyway...that's how I roll...
> 
> edit..well shucks the pics didn't show...


Tapcon's come in a kit. You have to use that smaller bit & their driver. Then it will release before it snaps or strips the hole. 
But I hate em and don't use them.. We can't get the kits so why bother using them.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

We used them for a few services. I think an anchor and screw does a better job. We still carry them on the vans because sometimes they are the best option but as a rule we don't use them to secure panels.


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## Elephante (Nov 16, 2011)

mcclary's electrical said:


> I have one drill with a slightly bent arbor that wallows the hole. Make sure that is not your problem.


 I was having that same problem.Drove me nuts


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

i like these anchors but they are very hard to remove if you ever have too but they hold strong http://www.itwredhead.com/product.php?Hammer-Set-Anchors-17


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

electricalwiz said:


> I would not trust plastic anchors to hold CT cabinets, and larger panels,
> for resi applications you are probably fine


i used to know a guy that used to hang 4 foot light fixtures on sheetrock with plastic anchors :no:


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## CoopElec (May 16, 2011)

*TapCon's*

Take your drill off hammer when you are scewing in the tapcon.


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

Using the tapcons in block walls aim for the mortar joints if they do not bite. I have also found that you need to use the righ length for what your securing. I use the Phillips head ones as I can usually get them flush with the wood unlike the hex head ones. Every now and then one will strip out but usually when I have secured something and have to move or tweak it.


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## LightsOn81 (Jan 6, 2012)

B4T said:


> I only use plastic anchors to hold boxes and straps on poured concrete and block walls..
> 
> I use the 1/4" drive pin anchors when I need something strong..
> 
> I didn't know TAPCON's are not rated for poured concrete.. that was my problem..


Drive pins and lead anchors are the most secure and fastest way to do anything in concrete. A1/4" ads bit to drill your hole flip to hammer and send the drive pin home. Red heads when I'm securing transformers generators etc. Lead anchors for disconnects panels cabinets plywood etc.


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## Theriot (Aug 27, 2011)

Yep the piece of wire works everytime

Sent from my iPad using ET Forum


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## jmellc (Feb 25, 2011)

cpt_sparks said:


> Had to google aj's. I've always just called em lead anchors.


Same here. I like them too for some apps. Steel drop ins are good too sometimes, but not for hollows.


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## kalexv12 (Apr 23, 2009)

I really hate them hammer set anchors especially when your the one who has to demo them out.


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## jmellc (Feb 25, 2011)

electricalperson said:


> i like these anchors but they are very hard to remove if you ever have too but they hold strong http://www.itwredhead.com/product.php?Hammer-Set-Anchors-17


I have had mixed results with them. If I can't get a good swing with hammer, it is a bit loose on the wall. As you said too, very hard to remove later.


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## jmellc (Feb 25, 2011)

LightsOn81 said:


> Drive pins and lead anchors are the most secure and fastest way to do anything in concrete. A1/4" ads bit to drill your hole flip to hammer and send the drive pin home. Red heads when I'm securing transformers generators etc. Lead anchors for disconnects panels cabinets plywood etc.


For solid concrete, I like the wedge anchors that are similar to redheads but don't have the red pin. I always drill deep enough to bury the anchor later, if ever need to move item. Tap anchor to usable depth, nut & tighten. If moving item, remove it & tap anchor below surface. Can dab some patch material in & smooth over.


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## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

I've had a lot better luck using an impact tool to drive in the Tapcons rather than a drill. 

Same thing with long wood screws, like in a deck.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

I prefer wedge anchors for use in concrete. I use them all though depending on the application.


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## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

I was just reading threads about fasteners and saw this one so I thought I'd contribute this:

1). Use the correct drill bit size; seriously, 1/32" off will blow it. Don't drill too deep (I put a piece of tape on the bit to mark the length of the screw).
2). After drilling the hole, REVERSE the drill to slowly pull it out. This is very important because tapcons work in part by compressing the brick dust into the threads of the screw itself. If you just pull the drill out, you'll pull most of the dust out and the tapcons won't hold. Yes, I'm serious.
3). Drill downward at a slight angle. This will help to keep the dust in the hole.
4). Don't over tighten; once the screw stops, be happy.

Tapcons are brilliant, strong, and fast. Because you are making a smaller hole than a lead anchor (or whatever else), they don't wear down your cordless and they are faster/easier than other anchors in hard surfaces.
Unfortunately they are difficult to get the hang of - but once you get the technique, they are the fastest mounting system and very secure.


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## Wiredindallas (Aug 9, 2018)

Good info. I have not normally used them, but I would have never known.how.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

Here's a tip. Don't buy them 

Ill admit that I only tried to use the once but IMO, they wouldn't work. I had to provide backing to hang kitchen cabinets on a block wall that was furred out 3/4, then drywalled.. I tried to attach some 1x6s to give myself plenty of leeway when it came time to hang the cabinets so I figured it would be a good time to try them out. 

Yeah, no.

I ended up with the tried and true 1/4" plastic anchors and long, fat sheet metal screws.


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## paulengr (Oct 8, 2017)

Red heads are much less trouble.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

I use tapcon on a regular basis; however I would say that I do not do as suggested. I actually drill the hole a little deeper and clean out the hole. I put them in with the impact driver. There was an attachment that you click on and off to switch from the bit to the driver and back when you were using a standard corded hammer drill, now I just have a bit in the impact driver and have no issues. Bigger tapcons are better then the smaller ones.

Cheers
John


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I use them occasionally but I don't like them. For them to work properly, the hole has to be the exact right size and clean. Masonry is too much of a mixed bag, it's not like drilling metal. With metal, you use a 1/4" bit, you get a 1/4" hole with no metal in the hole. With masonry, depending how hard the concrete is, how wet, how old, how hard your drill hammers, how straight the shaft is, how straight the bit is, etc. etc., you use a 1/4" bit, you usually get a hole a little larger than 1/4" with an indeterminate amount of debris in it. The little can be enough to ruin it. You have to blow out the hole so they don't bind and snap off. (The instructions do require cleaning out the hole, and drilling deeper than the length of the screw shaft - Concrete Anchors & Fasteners | Tapcon ). They snap off easily when they bind which suggests the shear strength is so so. 

The thing that's good about them is if you're mounting something with several holds like a box or etc., you can drill hold the equipment in place and drill the pilot holes through the mounting holes. With anchors you have to mark the holes then remove the equipment and drill, this takes times and is prone to mistakes. You can do this with nail-in anchors too, they are generally superior, stronger and faster, but harder to remove.


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## Cosmorok (Jun 3, 2019)

This video was posted yesterday, maybe he is a member of the message board and decided to do the Lord's work.
Concrete Fasteners


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