# Milwaukee Angle Drill Extension



## Kunolop (Feb 9, 2013)

Anybody use one of these, one of my employees is asking for one? Any good?


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Where exactly does he want it?


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

they still make those?


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## halfamp (Jul 16, 2012)

never seen a long tom that was battery powered. don't think I'd buy one either, that's one tool that should stay corded


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Personally I think even the corded version sucks, not enough power. But depends what exactly he needs it for.


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## Kunolop (Feb 9, 2013)

He wants it for new residential work, he came from the kelowna , bc and says this is all they use for drilling a house out. The extension would be put on a corded model, I just couldn't find a picture of one. A least you wouldn't need a ladder to drill out the joists.


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

I have the corded version and it is awesome for roughing in houses. Best money I spent in my early years.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Could serious speed things up, he may be on to something!


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## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

Kunolop said:


> He wants it for new residential work, he came from the kelowna , bc and says this is all they use for drilling a house out. The extension would be put on a corded model, I just couldn't find a picture of one. A least you wouldn't need a ladder to drill out the joists.


 being 6' + , i never need a ladder to drill with 8' ceilings


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

My suggestion is to get a single speed drill head though. I've used them with variable speed drills and I found that your grip relaxes and you wind up drilling in a lower speed until you notice it. It get's to be a PIA.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Next72969 said:


> being 6' + , i never need a ladder to drill with 8' ceilings


And you're cheaper than that Milwaukee attachment? :whistling2:


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## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

FrunkSlammer said:


> And you're cheaper than that Milwaukee attachment? :whistling2:


 how much is it?


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Next72969 said:


> how much is it?


Couple hundred.


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## Kunolop (Feb 9, 2013)

Next72969 said:


> how much is it?


Drill is about $300, attachment is $200. Normally we use just a Makita d handle drill which is $150 so its more than triple the cost.


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## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

FrunkSlammer said:


> Couple hundred.


 oh hell im way cheaper


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Next72969 said:


> oh hell im way cheaper


Then pack your bags, consider yourself bought! :thumbup:


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Kunolop said:


> Drill is about $300, attachment is $200. Normally we use just a Makita d handle drill which is $150 so its more than triple the cost.


For things like this you can't quibble over a couple hundred bucks. It's a long term investment that over it's life is almost free IMO. The thing will last virtually forever.


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## Next72969 (Dec 9, 2012)

Speedy Petey said:


> For things like this you can't quibble over a couple hundred bucks. It's a long term investment that over it's life is almost free IMO. The thing will last virtually forever.


 ive honestly never seen one in use.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

To keep employees off ladders will speed productivity up, and lower risk of them falling and getting hurt.

Win/win.


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

Next72969 said:


> ive honestly never seen one in use.


I hear quite a few guys say that. Kind of like twisty screw drivers.
I only worked for three guys in the years before going out on my own and all three had them.


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

Boom drill, I love mine, it's great for drilling out TGI's and floor joists, I always keep it on the van


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

As far as power goes you can drill all day long with a 1-1/8" naileater, no problem. 
I usually keep a 1" in it.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

I found it bogged down and couldn't cut it when I was working on a wood frame low rise. 

The milwaukee hole hawg is great, powerful enough to kill ya.. the right angle drill is pretty lacking.. but where ya need it, ya need it! 

(IMO)


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

I've had one for years and it's the cat's meow. It's about the only corded tool we use anymore. Most of our holes on a rough-in are drilled with this drill. No climbing a ladder to drill out floor joist and no stooping to drill out studs. Well worth the money. I'm not sure how the cordless version would work though.


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## sparky402 (Oct 15, 2013)

Now im interested in getting one. Any links. Im assuming it goes on a hole hawg right


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

sparky402 said:


> Now im interested in getting one. Any links. Im assuming it goes on a hole hawg right


D-handle drill.


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## Kunolop (Feb 9, 2013)

sparky402 said:


> Now im interested in getting one. Any links. Im assuming it goes on a hole hawg right


 http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/miscellaneous/48-06-2860

They list all the drills it fits on, most likley just the d handle drills.


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## sparky402 (Oct 15, 2013)

Is it hard to drill a series of holes in a straight line.


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## DERITM (Apr 8, 2009)

Been using these since 1981. Only way to drill out residential and I only do EMT. You learn to "sight drill" and can slide full lengths in, no measuring.


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

I usually find a plywood seam and use it for a straight line reference, works pretty good


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

mikeg_05 said:


> I usually find a plywood seam and use it for a straight line reference, works pretty good


Snap a chalk line. Piece of cake. Makes for easier pulling too when your holes are straight. If you don't have a jig, snap a line for your box height too.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Chalk line? what is this 1980?

Shoot a laser beam! Takes 5 seconds to make a line.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

FrunkSlammer said:


> Chalk line? what is this 1980?
> 
> Shoot a laser beam! Takes 5 seconds to make a line.


A laser beam isn't earth-friendly. It uses batteries which end up in the land fill, polluting our ground water. :no::no:


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

wendon said:


> A laser beam isn't earth-friendly. It uses batteries which end up in the land fill, polluting our ground water. :no::no:


Use rechargeable batteries and recharge them with electricity generated by hugging trees. Hug harder and you'll charge faster. :brows:


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

I prefer chalk if Im lining up existing points to add in a third, takes me forever to get the laser aligned.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

wendon said:


> A laser beam isn't earth-friendly. It uses batteries which end up in the land fill, polluting our ground water. :no::no:


We can never go back. Life was so much better hundreds of years ago but that was then. Your horse is in the garage for the night I hope.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

daveEM said:


> We can never go back. Life was so much better hundreds of years ago but that was then. Your horse is in the garage for the night I hope.


By the time you have your laser set up to the correct height and leveled I'll have my chalk line snapped and be drilling holes.
Now a laser that would drill holes, that would be a different story!!


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

We're talking about making a straight line to drill TGI/joists right? 

I can take the laser out of the case, set it on the floor, turn it on (self levelling), shoot the line I like in definitely under 10 seconds. 

You can snap a chalk line in less than 10 seconds? :no: Be honest old man!


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

FrunkSlammer said:


> We're talking about making a straight line to drill TGI/joists right?
> 
> I can take the laser out of the case, set it on the floor, turn it on (self levelling), shoot the line I like in definitely under 10 seconds.
> 
> You can snap a chalk line in less than 10 seconds? :no: Be honest old man!


I'm talking about drilling holes in studs. Out here we put receptacles in the walls too! I can see the line on the ceiling if you didn't care if it was parallel with the wall. Don't get me wrong I like the idea of a laser for setting can lights etc. but I still think there's used for the trusty chalk line.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

FrunkSlammer said:


> We're talking about making a straight line to drill TGI/joists right?



When did it become ok to drill TGI joists?


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## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

wendon said:


> I'm talking about drilling holes in studs. Out here we put receptacles in the walls too! I can see the line on the ceiling if you didn't care if it was parallel with the wall. Don't get me wrong I like the idea of a laser for setting can lights etc. but I still think there's used for the trusty chalk line.


The chalk becomes more useful in finish work if you only stock the purple wipe away kind instead of the bloody red indelible permanent stuff usually stocked by the framers and masons..

Once you get some of the red stuff in a reel its very hard to clean it out and change colors.


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## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

DERITM said:


> Been using these since 1981. Only way to drill out residential and I only do EMT. You learn to "sight drill" and can slide full lengths in, no measuring.


What size hole for what size EMT? I've seen this done with full lenghts of CPVC, but there's a lot more give in it than EMT!

I'd pay $10 just to watch somebody put a 10 foot stick of EMT through ten feet of joists 16 on center, seems unlikely unless hole size is pretty big on the first starter holes where you are angling up into the bay or you're putting a pretty good tweak on the tube in the process...

We need more EMT residential pictures on here. They would be of great benefit to the forum and make you a MVP with high thanks value per post in short order, even with low post count total. :thumbup:


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

macmikeman said:


> When did it become ok to drill TGI joists?


Im going to assume you meant TJI










and not all of those have the holes ready to knock out so you would have to drill them


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

I still call them TGI's even if they are TJI's. Just sounds better.


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## DERITM (Apr 8, 2009)

Yeah, I'm not good at posting pix or I would. 1-1/8" planetor bits, you drill with "pitch" remaining in the center 1/3 of the wood, of course. Wow, @ $10 a stick I could make $120 an hour, or is that for just one? (Ha!) If you need to go more than 10' then you just pitch back down and insert from the other end and tweek the meeting point for the coupling with a bender in place.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

markore said:


> The chalk becomes more useful in finish work if you only stock the purple wipe away kind instead of the bloody red indelible permanent stuff usually stocked by the framers and masons..
> 
> Once you get some of the red stuff in a reel its very hard to clean it out and change colors.


Are you serious?? It's a lot simpler to just have one for red and one for blue.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

If you snap a line to drill studs for romex you are a better than me. I would choke my guys if I caught them diicking around like that.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

sbrn33 said:


> If you snap a line to drill studs for romex you are a better than me. I would choke my guys if I caught them diicking around like that.


I'm the boss. I would compliment them on something like that. Takes very little time. I would complain if I caught them backstabbing though....:whistling2:


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## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

wendon said:


> Are you serious?? It's a lot simpler to just have one for red and one for blue.


Or one for red, one for blue, one for purple?
I'm a finish and automation guy so I have no need for red...

What do you use permanent for? Rough framing before drywall? Won't the blue work just as well?


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

sbrn33 said:


> If you snap a line to drill studs for romex you are a better than me. I would choke my guys if I caught them diicking around like that.


But just imagine how proud you would be of the hidden wires in the finished ceiling being perfectly parallel to the wall. :laughing:

Yeah I have no idea why Wendon would snap a chalk line for pulls. :no:


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## markore (Dec 7, 2011)

DERITM said:


> Yeah, I'm not good at posting pix or I would. 1-1/8" planetor bits, you drill with "pitch" remaining in the center 1/3 of the wood, of course. Wow, @ $10 a stick I could make $120 an hour, or is that for just one? (Ha!) If you need to go more than 10' then you just pitch back down and insert from the other end and tweek the meeting point for the coupling with a bender in place.


Cool story, Bro! :thumbup:


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

FrunkSlammer said:


> But just imagine how proud you would be of the hidden wires in the finished ceiling being perfectly parallel to the wall. :laughing:
> 
> Yeah I have no idea why Wendon would snap a chalk line for pulls. :no:


It's a 110.12 thing, you wouldn't understand.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

markore said:


> Or one for red, one for blue, one for purple?
> I'm a finish and automation guy so I have no need for red...
> 
> What do you use permanent for? Rough framing before drywall? Won't the blue work just as well?


Haven't used purple yet. Red is permanent. Blue works just fine. Home Depot ads are disgusting.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Purple is just red and blue


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