# opinons on corded drills



## ZTelec (Mar 25, 2017)

looking for options in a new corded drill for residential . any feed back is appreciated


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Why not cordless? I don't even carry an extension cord in the van anymore.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Milwaukee, don't waste time on anything else in corded standard drills. 

Bosch in small to medium hammer drills. 

There are a couple other brands if you have money to burn.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

ZTelec said:


> looking for options in a new corded drill for residential . any feed back is appreciated


:no::no::no:

No-one can afford to use corded drills in residential work any more.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Why not cordless? I don't even carry an extension cord in the van anymore.


Yeah, but for you that is only because you are always unprepared.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Yeah, but for you that is only because you are always unprepared.


Pffft. The only corded tool I really use anymore is a Bulldog and, when that goes in the van, the cord goes with it.

:vs_smirk:


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## BlueOval5272 (Jul 25, 2015)

We have a old hole hog that we carry. So old it has no markings as to what it is. The only other corded tool we carry is a big dewalt hammer drill when we have to take out a lot of concrete. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

Corded > Milwaukee Super Hawg, I have three, excellent tool that very rarely gets used.

Cordless > M18 Fuel, Milwaukee Super Hole Hawg, I have two. This is all we use anymore.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I still use cords for the big rotary hammer and ground rod driver, a fan, a vacuum, and a few lights for when a lot of light is needed.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

If you're talking about right angle drills, I only use Milwaukee, I have the gooseneck right angle and the hole hawg which you need boring in some of the 100+ year old beams I encounter. 

I'm not part of the Milwaukee 18V party (but I do have the 12V) and I'm too cheap to spring for a super hole hawg and have that be the only cordless tool from Milwaukee I have. I committed to Ridgid cordless tools 13 years ago, before all the super cool tools were available, and now have to many to make the jump.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

I have had one of these for 17 years, the last 5 it has just sat though as I don't do any NC.... Never had one issue with it and I loved it when I needed it.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Switched said:


> I have had one of these for 17 years, the last 5 it has just sat though as I don't do any NC.... Never had one issue with it and I loved it when I needed it.


You may not need it often but when you need to bore say a 3/4" hole through some serious framing or a pole for hardware or anything heavy duty a battery isn't going to do it.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drewsserviceco said:


> If you're talking about right angle drills, I only use Milwaukee, I have the gooseneck right angle and the hole hawg which you need boring in some of the 100+ year old beams I encounter.


Couldn't agree more. I have some of their drills from way back that are still running strong. Never had any problems. In all those years maybe a set of brushes after 10 years.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> I still use cords for the big rotary hammer and ground rod driver, a fan, a vacuum, and a few lights for when a lot of light is needed.


Yeah, nobody is getting away from serious tools for serious tasks.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> You may not need it often but when you need to bore say a 3/4" hole through some serious framing or a pole for hardware or anything heavy duty a battery isn't going to do it.


3/4 is easy. Drilled out four apartment buildings with Fuels and went through some really gnarly chit, no problem.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> 3/4 is easy. Drilled out four apartment buildings with Fuels and went through some really gnarly chit, no problem.


You think it will put an 18" ship auger through a 10" pole?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> You think it will put an 18" ship auger through a 10" pole?


Daredevil with an extension will eat it without even burping.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Same as others, rotohammer is about it for corded, well, still using the corded circular saw.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Daredevil with an extension will eat it without even burping.


I think you're wrong but I've only drilled poles with ship augers. What is the base hex size of a Daredevil?


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I'll probably buy the corded Super Hawg at some point, next time I have a job that really needs it. I have a right angle corded drill that I occasionally use, the Milwaukee goose-neck one, but the Super Hawg is stronger and has a clutch.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

nrp3 said:


> Same as others, rotohammer is about it for corded, well, still using the corded circular saw.


For me it's metal chop saw, power threader, demo hammer, worm drive saw, hole hawg, and pipe vise. Big vacuum, ventilator fan, lighting, air compressors, and pumps go without saying.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

splatz said:


> I'll probably buy the corded Super Hawg at some point, next time I have a job that really needs it. I have a right angle corded drill that I occasionally use, the Milwaukee goose-neck one, but *the Super Hawg is stronger and has a clutch*.


To my mind, the clutch is essential.

I've seen too many injuries from Hole Hawgs... heard tales of guys breaking their arms... which I can believe.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

telsa said:


> To my mind, the clutch is essential.
> 
> I've seen too many injuries from Hole Hawgs... heard tales of guys breaking their arms... which I can believe.


I've taken a ride using a 4 5/8" auger in a hole hawg when I weighed in at 250+ pounds, they have more than enough power.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Shop vac too. Forgot that. Cordless has gotten so good for most tasks its so much easier and quicker to go that way.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

nrp3 said:


> Shop vac too. Forgot that. Cordless has gotten so good for most tasks its so much easier and quicker to go that way.


I use a 18v vac for most stuff but I have a large Makita vac for big jobs. 

I just saw a cordless water pump which is cool. Cordless is still up and coming but there are tools that aren't going to be cordless anytime soon.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Great for water heaters and storage tank repairs:


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Too cheap at the moment to replace my small Makita corded rotohammer. The bigger Makita that mostly gets used to drive ground rods isn't going anywhere either. Smaller shop vac for clean ups. I have seen the cordless vac, and its nice, but not really on the radar.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I think you're wrong but I've only drilled poles with ship augers. What is the base hex size of a Daredevil?


Doesn't matter. The issue with the Daredevil is that it doesn't clean out the shavings like an auger. You need to keep backing it out to clean out the hole. It doesn't have nearly the drag on it that an auger has, though. For a couple of gnarly holes, it's fine. If you're drilling gnarly holes all day, it will get irritating, not to mention the fact that you will go through a chit load of Daredevils.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

99cents said:


> Pffft. The only corded tool I really use anymore is a Bulldog and, when that goes in the van, the cord goes with it.
> 
> :vs_smirk:


You might be a glutton for punishment if you use say a 1" masonry bit with a reduced shaft.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

So that Milwaukee would drain a 40gal water heater?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Doesn't matter. The issue with the Daredevil is that it doesn't clean out the shavings like an auger. You need to keep backing it out to clean out the hole. It doesn't have nearly the drag on it that an auger has, though. For a couple of gnarly holes, it's fine. If you're drilling gnarly holes all day, it will get irritating, not to mention the fact that you will go through a chit load of Daredevils.


None of what you said sounds efficient use of time. I've tried a smaller shafted cheap auger and had it snap off in a pole, then it was a huge pain to get it out or just make it safe.

If I have two holes to drill in a pole or piling I'm not playing with a battery drill for 15 minutes when a corded drill will take 3 minutes total.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

nrp3 said:


> So that Milwaukee would drain a 40gal water heater?


So they say. If I was still out doing service I'd give one a try. It looks tempting as hell for less than $200.

They say it does 480 gph / 8 gpm, so 5 minutes should drain 40 gals.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

What's the lift on it, does it say?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drewsserviceco said:


> What's the lift on it, does it say?


From their site: generates up to 18’ of lift and produces up to 75’ of head height.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

That's impressive!!


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## ZTelec (Mar 25, 2017)

I've been using something like this for about 2 years and i love it looking for other options like this


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drewsserviceco said:


> That's impressive!!


:thumbsup:

The lift is impressive, the head is crazy.

I've been using pony pumps and the larger size for ever.

I think the clear impeller cover is a huge asset.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

If it is new construction, it is a hole hawg every single time. Don't let these guys tell you that cordless is just as fast, because it is not.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

ZTelec said:


> I've been using something like this for about 2 years and i love it looking for other options like this


I have one more like this and it's okay, not great in hammer mode by any stretch.


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## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

sbrn33 said:


> If it is new construction, it is a hole hawg every single time. Don't let these guys tell you that cordless is just as fast, because it is not.


The cordless are comparable, but it's hard to beat the classic 2 speed hole hawg. I get some eye rolls from the guys, but we still do our main drilling for new houses with the corded, then keep the cordless one out for cleanup. If you have a big job and drill all the holes at once, I don't think it's that big of a hassle to get the cord out for a little while.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Bird dog said:


> You might be a glutton for punishment if you use say a 1" masonry bit with a reduced shaft.


What does that mean? Seriously, I don't drill much concrete.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

WIsparky71 said:


> The cordless are comparable, but it's hard to beat the classic 2 speed hole hawg. I get some eye rolls from the guys, but we still do our main drilling for new houses with the corded, then keep the cordless one out for cleanup. If you have a big job and drill all the holes at once, I don't think it's that big of a hassle to get the cord out for a little while.


No down time running for batteries or babying a bit through a tough spot. 

Time is money!


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> What does that mean? Seriously, I don't drill much concrete.


It means reduced shaft bits are more like masturbation than really hitting the task at hand.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

99cents said:


> What does that mean? Seriously, I don't drill much concrete.


Good way to break a wrist. Better to use a rotary hammer drill even if it is medium size.


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## ZTelec (Mar 25, 2017)

WIsparky71 said:


> The cordless are comparable, but it's hard to beat the classic 2 speed hole hawg. I get some eye rolls from the guys, but we still do our main drilling for new houses with the corded, then keep the cordless one out for cleanup. If you have a big job and drill all the holes at once, I don't think it's that big of a hassle to get the cord out for a little while.


yeah same thing i actually carry my impact with a spade just in case i need any other holes


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

With the advancement in batteries in the last few years, corded tools are becoming dinosaurs. 
Even on big commercial jobs they are using battery tools. Was on a job last year that had over 200 electricians, not a cord in sight. Nothing like drilling concrete all day with a hilti cordless that has a vacuum attached.


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## ZTelec (Mar 25, 2017)

eddy current said:


> With the advancement in batteries in the last few years, corded tools are becoming dinosaurs.
> Even on big commercial jobs they are using battery tools. Was on a job last year that had over 200 electricians, not a cord in sight. Nothing like drilling concrete all day with a hilti cordless that has a vacuum attached.


Yeah batteries are getting better but i don't think they are good enough quiet yet atleast not for drill a whole house


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Bird dog said:


> Good way to break a wrist. Better to use a rotary hammer drill even if it is medium size.


Bulldog is a rotary hammer. What am I missing here? I said the one corded tool I use is a Bulldog. :001_huh:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

ZTelec said:


> Yeah batteries are getting better but i don't think they are good enough quiet yet atleast not for drill a whole house


Romex Racer's crew of Mexicans were drilling entire houses 15 years ago with Dewalt 18V drills and 18" auger bits.

Have you guys tried the new generation of Milwaukee M18? with 1,200inlbs. of torque, it's a monster. I drives a 2 9/16" self feed bit thru old wood better than my 120V magnum holeshooter. 

It takes like 2 or 3 seconds to drill thru a joist. Is it really that important to save 1 second that you have to carrying around a large, heavy, dangerous holehawg with a cord?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I haven't yanked wire in a new house in five years so my days of drilling first and then pulling wire are done. With renos, it's usually easier to go cordless and drill and pull at the same time.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

ZTelec said:


> Yeah batteries are getting better but i don't think they are good enough quiet yet atleast not for drill a whole house


My crew uses nothing but battery drills even on 5,000 sq ft homes.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Romex Racer's crew of Mexicans were drilling entire houses 15 years ago with Dewalt 18V drills and 18" auger bits.
> 
> Have you guys tried the new generation of Milwaukee M18? with 1,200inlbs. of torque, it's a monster. I drives a 2 9/16" self feed bit thru old wood better than my 120V magnum holeshooter.
> 
> It takes like 2 or 3 seconds to drill thru a joist. Is it really that important to save 1 second that you have to carrying around a large, heavy, dangerous holehawg with a cord?


Only if your manhood is judged by the size of your tool  .


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

ZTelec said:


> Yeah batteries are getting better but i don't think they are good enough quiet yet atleast not for drill a whole house


A whole house? Dude, 200 electricians on a job with more than 1 million square feet and everyone using battery drills. I can drill your "whole house" using only one battery, lol!! 

Keep in mind, I'm not talking about Home Depot quality drills either.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I thought this conversation was done a few years ago, about the time I learned a Fuel drill could rip my arm off.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

If I was doing new houses, I would buy an M18 Hawg. I don't know if it has more jam than a Fuel drill but my wrists would like it better.


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

MechanicalDVR said:


> From their site: generates up to 18’ of lift and produces up to 75’ of head height.


I wonder what kind of flow rates it would deliver at those parameters.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> No down time running for batteries or babying a bit through a tough spot.
> 
> Time is money!


Tell me that next time your corded drill is 6" from your target and there's no slack left in your cord.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

99cents said:


> Bulldog is a rotary hammer. What am I missing here? I said the one corded tool I use is a Bulldog. :001_huh:


My mistake. I used it in the early 1990s.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ntent=334760&gclid=CLfI6_y69NICFYa1wAodJSQKKw


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Bird dog said:


> My mistake.


It's all good. You gave Mech the opportunity to talk about masturbation  .


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## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

Don't get my wrong, I have the cordless hawg and love it. It's great for joists, small jobs, and even a whole house if needed. One of the corded hawgs we have is 15+ years at least. Those things are bullet proof. I don't see the cordless lasting that long. It's a nice tool, but I tend to baby it on big jobs. Also, we have guys at our shop that don't keep batteries charged (pet peeve #1), and nothing pisses me off more than when they start to drill with the cordless, and realize they don't have any full batteries. Could've had the house halfway drilled with the cord. 

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Bird dog said:


> My mistake. I used it in the early 1990s.
> 
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ntent=334760&gclid=CLfI6_y69NICFYa1wAodJSQKKw


That is a drill no electrician needs to own.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

WIsparky71 said:


> Don't get my wrong, I have the cordless hawg and love it. It's great for joists, small jobs, and even a whole house if needed. One of the corded hawgs we have is 15+ years at least. Those things are bullet proof. I don't see the cordless lasting that long. It's a nice tool, but I tend to baby it on big jobs. Also, we have guys at our shop that don't keep batteries charged (pet peeve #1), and nothing pisses me off more than when they start to drill with the cordless, and realize they don't have any full batteries. Could've had the house halfway drilled with the cord.
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


I bet their phones are always charged up  .


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> That is a drill no electrician needs to own.


That is an excellent drill. It's bullet proof and powerful. That what I would use when my Dewalt 18V didn't have the power to drill something, especially with self feed bits. But now I am selling it because my M18 drill is more powerful.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That is an excellent drill. It's bullet proof and powerful. That what I would use when my Dewalt 18V didn't have the power to drill something, especially with self feed bits. But now I am selling it because my M18 drill is more powerful.


Saving up for a hole hawg?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-H...737205?hash=item25d266b875:g:IsoAAOSwSlBY0rIs


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

So you guys with the cordless, what chuck do you get?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

sbrn33 said:


> Saving up for a hole hawg?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-H...737205?hash=item25d266b875:g:IsoAAOSwSlBY0rIs


I imagine if Hack has the need for a big, clunky tank, he will buy one. In the meantime, don't hold your breath.


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## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

sbrn33 said:


> So you guys with the cordless, what chuck do you get?


Classic Jacob's. I don't own a bit I can't use. They sell a little 7/16 quick lock adapter I can use if I want the quick change option.

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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> Saving up for a hole hawg?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-H...737205?hash=item25d266b875:g:IsoAAOSwSlBY0rIs


Nope, I have absolutely no use for a hole hawg. Hole hawgs are for slave drivers and silly people.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> So you guys with the cordless, what chuck do you get?


1/2" keyless jacobs style.


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## WIsparky71 (Mar 7, 2015)

Not the first time I've been called a slave driver. 😂

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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

hardworkingstiff said:


> I wonder what kind of flow rates it would deliver at those parameters.


I've seen a video of the pump lifting about 6' and it looked like great flow. Haven't seen anything on pumping against a high head.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Tell me that next time your corded drill is 6" from your target and there's no slack left in your cord.


I always plan well so I don't have that problem!:thumbsup:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That is an excellent drill. It's bullet proof and powerful. That what I would use when my Dewalt 18V didn't have the power to drill something, especially with self feed bits. But now I am selling it because my M18 drill is more powerful.


I have the 0234 1/2" magnum and love it. Had it a long time with no fails.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I have the 0234 1/2" magnum and love it. Had it a long time with no fails.


:thumbsup:


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## catsparky1 (Sep 24, 2013)

We have been tossed on to air planes with two cases full o tools 3000 miles from home for 45 days to build burger joints and not one corded tool .

10 years ago NO WAY YO . 
Cordless has changed the way we work .


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## MCasey (Dec 7, 2016)

Cannot go wrong with Hilti or Milwaukee.


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

Used to use these:










Now these get it done:



















Only thing I bring a cord for is my Bosch SDS-Max and my propane torpedo.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Grogan, is that pistol grip Milwaukee M18 drill the newer 2nd generation drill with 1,200inlbs of torque? I believe the model is 2704.

I ask because some people have alluded to it being nearly as powerful as the M18 hole Hawg that you have next to it. I was wondering if that's true?

I see you have the M18 super Hawg in the next picture, that thing is a beast!


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

That's the older model there, but I do have the gen-2 kit now - both the drill and impact are crazy powerful. Haven't really thought about it in relation to the Hawg, but the gen-1 was 750 in/lbs, so it's a substantial upgrade. The impact with a 1" Daredevil or Speedbor is crazy fast, at 3,000 rpm.

The Super Hawg is pretty bulky, and I only bring it out when I really need it. Since going to TCT hole saws recently for my larger holes, I need it pretty infrequently - usually only bring it along if the framing is ancient.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

Grogan14 said:


> Used to use these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had to Google "propane torpedo". That thing has an after burner! You could attach it to your truck if your battery went out. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

sbrn33 said:


> That is a drill no electrician needs to own.


Those are great drills. I have the 1200 in/lb Milwaukee Fuel, but if I need to drill a bunch of holes in metal, I'd still rather set up shop with a corded drill than beat the crap out of my cordless and risk overheating it.

All this talk of whether the new Fuel has the same balls as a Hole Hawg has me thinking the same thing. It's not just about its torque ratings, it's about duty cycle. A Hole Hawg is made to punch heavy duty hole after hole, whereas I think a pistol grip drill is more likely to overheat when subjected to such conditions. I hardly ever use a cord for anything anymore, but there are times when it does make more sense.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

B-Nabs said:


> Those are great drills. I have the 1200 in/lb Milwaukee Fuel, but if I need to drill a bunch of holes in metal, I'd still rather set up shop with a corded drill than beat the crap out of my cordless and risk overheating it.
> 
> All this talk of whether the new Fuel has the same balls as a Hole Hawg has me thinking the same thing. It's not just about its torque ratings, it's about duty cycle. A Hole Hawg is made to punch heavy duty hole after hole, whereas I think a pistol grip drill is more likely to overheat when subjected to such conditions. I hardly ever use a cord for anything anymore, but there are times when it does make more sense.


I've drilled a lot of dock pilings and that is some pretty tough going, normally I use a hole hawg. I haven't tried with a cordless but I may the next time out.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

B-Nabs said:


> Those are great drills. I have the 1200 in/lb Milwaukee Fuel, but if I need to drill a bunch of holes in metal, I'd still rather set up shop with a corded drill than beat the crap out of my cordless and risk overheating it.
> 
> All this talk of whether the new Fuel has the same balls as a Hole Hawg has me thinking the same thing. It's not just about its torque ratings, it's about duty cycle. A Hole Hawg is made to punch heavy duty hole after hole, whereas I think a pistol grip drill is more likely to overheat when subjected to such conditions. I hardly ever use a cord for anything anymore, but there are times when it does make more sense.


This is true, I am not sure of the duty rating. I do know that using the side handle is probably a good idea so that your second hand doesn't cover the vent holes on the drill. 

I am of the opinion that if a cordless tool served you well for a period of time, then it can be considered a wearable item like a drill bit. The hole hawg is heavy as hell, dangerous, and a pain in the ass to use all day. Using a cordless drill is much, much nicer. If I had to spend $200 every year or two to replace it, I think it would be worth it.

What is a broken nose or sprained wrist going to cost you overall?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> This is true, I am not sure of the duty rating. I do know that using the side handle is probably a good idea so that your second hand doesn't cover the vent holes on the drill.
> 
> I am of the opinion that if a cordless tool served you well for a period of time, then it can be considered a wearable item like a drill bit. The hole hawg is heavy as hell, dangerous, and a pain in the ass to use all day. Using a cordless drill is much, much nicer. If I had to spend $200 every year or two to replace it, I think it would be worth it.
> 
> What is a broken nose or sprained wrist going to cost you overall?


I learned my lesson early on with powerful drills, you need to respect them and pay attention, not push them too much or hold them haphazardly. The last drill related hurt I've had was from an M18 drill that grabbed a nail and jerked my wrist unexpectedly, am impact wouldn't have done that. 

If I was still working full time $200 a year for a drill wouldn't be an issue at all.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

MechanicalDVR said:


> None of what you said sounds efficient use of time. I've tried a smaller shafted cheap auger and had it snap off in a pole, then it was a huge pain to get it out or just make it safe.
> 
> If I have two holes to drill in a pole or piling I'm not playing with a battery drill for 15 minutes when a corded drill will take 3 minutes total.


Have you tried the cordless Hole Hawg with the 9.0 battery? I dare you.

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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

sbrn33 said:


> If it is new construction, it is a hole hawg every single time. Don't let these guys tell you that cordless is just as fast, because it is not.


Cordless isn't just as fast; it's much faster. Been there, done that. If someone is looking for a corded Hole hog, I've got one. I have the old style without a clutch, and I hate that wrist-breaking demon.

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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

99cents said:


> Bulldog is a rotary hammer. What am I missing here? I said the one corded tool I use is a Bulldog. :001_huh:


Replace it with a M18 1 1/8" cordless.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

wendon said:


> Have you tried the cordless Hole Hawg with the 9.0 battery? I dare you.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


No I haven't but it could happen depending on my ambition level.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I have the 0234 1/2" magnum and love it. Had it a long time with no fails.


Let me know when you want another one. Mine's been taking up space for too many years. I got a Bulldog that worked great but now I got the M18.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I'm trying to sell mine on Craigslist, but no one wants it. I even have it in the original metal toolbox it came in.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

wendon said:


> Have you tried the cordless Hole Hawg with the 9.0 battery? I dare you.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk



I have, a buddy of mine has one with the 9.0's. It eats holes.. right up there with my hole hog. The balance is strange to me after decades of using a hole hog and it seems to be a bit heavier. 

But not having the cord catch on the ladder brace every 5th time I go up and not having to roll and stretch a cord is very appealing. 


I may buy one soon.

There are several to choose from, which one fits our trade best?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

wendon said:


> Let me know when you want another one. Mine's been taking up space for too many years. I got a Bulldog that worked great but now I got the M18.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


I have a bunch of cordless tools too but I think we need to see what the longevity of them is going to be if abused like corded tools before I give anything away.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

That is it, I am buying one of these magic drills. CPO here I come.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

wendon said:


> Replace it with a M18 1 1/8" cordless.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


Yeah, it boils down to cost. I saw a refurbed one at the Milwaukee store and thought about buying it. I don't drill much concrete, though.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

My apprentice broke his face using a M18 cordless, nothing to hold on to caught a nail whip around and broke his face.

Funny as hell bleeding all over the place like stuck pig.... till I got the bill for the stitches. 


He's not allowed to drill again until he learns not to put his face where the drill might break it... that and to look the other side of joists for turd pipes and the like.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Yeah, it boils down to cost. I saw a refurbed one at the Milwaukee store and thought about buying it. I don't drill much concrete, though.


I have one and for holes up to 1/2" it's great, it goes much slower from that point up.


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

HackWork said:


> If I had to spend $200 every year or two to replace it, I think it would be worth it.


I say the same to every tradesman that asks me about it - I'd buy one each year if I had to, well worth it. Thankfully, I have not had a problem with a one of my M12 or M18 tools. Carpenter the other day tells me he goes through 3 DeWalt impacts a year, decking with them, but could care less, as they're making him money.

I also don't care to count exactly how many holes I get per charge. That's silly crap, for fanboys that watch YT videos. I've got a ton of batteries, so what do I care. All I care is no friggin' cords.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> That is it, I am buying one of these magic drills. CPO here I come.


OK home depot has one in stock I think. Is there any certain one I need to get?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I have a bunch of cordless tools too but I think we need to see what the longevity of them is going to be if abused like corded tools before I give anything away.


My Fuel drill is about four years old and it's almost done. It has been a trooper, though, and owes me nothing. It's a throwaway world, unfortunately. Maybe I'll find a kid to give it to when I replace it.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> My Fuel drill is about four years old and it's almost done. It has been a trooper, though, and owes me nothing. It's a throwaway world, unfortunately. Maybe I'll find a kid to give it to when I replace it.


Do you often give 'gifts' to kids?

Do the words 'pizza gate' make you uneasy?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Do you often give 'gifts' to kids?
> 
> Do the words 'pizza gate' make you uneasy?


Good grief. Wrong forum section there, bucko.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Good grief. Wrong forum section there, bucko.


You brought it up!


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

Wow, 99 is part of an underground pedophile ring? Can't say I'm suprised. 


NAMBLA does stand for North American Man Boy Love Associatin and Caniduh is north of america so it stands to reason.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> My Fuel drill is about four years old and it's almost done. It has been a trooper, though, and owes me nothing. It's a throwaway world, unfortunately. Maybe I'll find a kid to give it to when I replace it.


"It's a throwaway world, unfortunately."

When companies make products that are crappier and don't last, I don't like it.

But in this situation, it's more along the lines of what B-Nabs said, the cordless drills don't have the same duty cycle as the corded hole hawg. So it stands to reason that they won't last as long, and is worth the expense of having to buy a new one every so often due to the smaller and lighter design making our day much easier.

Sometimes things are better when they are disposable, like diapers :laughing:


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Only two companies I would by a corded drill from Milwaukee and Milwaukee


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

MechanicalDVR said:


> You may not need it often but when you need to bore say a 3/4" hole through some serious framing or a pole for hardware or anything heavy duty a battery isn't going to do it.


My cordless hole hawg drills poles just fine. Its a lot nicer to run off of spikes than a corded drill too.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Out in the slop today with the corded Makita setting plastic anchors. I'd like to try out a cordless rotohammer before I buy one.


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

If I was still on my commercial service truck, I would get one of those battery ban saws. All ready got a ton of 18 volt batteries from Milwaukee, just buy the tool. Save so much time and effort cutting uni-strut, threaded rod and pipe with one of those


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

nrp3 said:


> Out in the slop today with the corded Makita setting plastic anchors. I'd like to try out a cordless rotohammer before I buy one.


When? I've got the m12 that I fricken love.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

nrp3 said:


> Out in the slop today with the corded Makita setting plastic anchors. I'd like to try out a cordless rotohammer before I buy one.


I have to tell you, when I went M18, I very much wanted to avoid getting a hammer drill. I didn't want all that complicated extra weight to carry around because I don't drill masonarry all that much and when I do, I have a corded hammer drill or a root hammer for the big stuff.


Turns out, the hammer drill is handy as hell, I use it all the time.


Pro tip: (you will thank me for this)

Ever have a hole saw that was used without the mandrel locked and you need 2 sets of channel locks or a vice and bloody knuckles to get it apart? I had one that had been locked up for about 10 years. Chuck it up in your hammer drill and run it in reverse into a chunk of scrap wood. Comes off easy-peesy 


Your welcome.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

five.five-six said:


> Pro tip: (you will thank me for this)
> 
> Ever have a hole saw that was used without the mandrel locked and you need 2 sets of channel locks or a vice and bloody knuckles to get it apart? I had one that had been locked up for about 10 years. Chuck it up in your hammer drill and run it in reverse into a chunk of scrap wood. Comes off easy-peesy
> 
> ...


That's a good one. I usually wind up with knuckle damage when that happens, it takes a fair amount of force then when it lets go it really lets go.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> That's a good one. I usually wind up with knuckle damage when that happens, it takes a fair amount of force then when it lets go it really lets go.


I find a pipe wrench on the ground and an impact are quick and easy, with no busted knuckles or bodily harm.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I find a pipe wrench on the ground and an impact are quick and easy, with no busted knuckles or bodily harm.



Try the rotohammer trick next time, you will be pleasantly suprised. 

How do you connect a impact to the mandrel?


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Going_Commando said:


> My cordless hole hawg drills poles just fine. Its a lot nicer to run off of spikes than a corded drill too.


You don't have spikes. Don't you lie to us.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

five.five-six said:


> Try the rotohammer trick next time, you will be pleasantly suprised.
> 
> How do you connect a impact to the mandrel?


Impact socket.


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## five.five-six (Apr 9, 2013)

Find a pipe wrench on the ground, find a impact socket on the ground, find a socket adapter on the ground .... it's a lot easier just to try my trick


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

five.five-six said:


> Find a pipe wrench on the ground, find a impact socket on the ground, find a socket adapter on the ground .... it's a lot easier just to try my trick


Put the holesaw in the pipe wrench and place it on the ground to brace it, slide on the socket and hit reverse, it is much easier a procedure than it sounds I guess. No wood to force the saw against, no chance of slippage.

All the tools required are in my bag.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

five.five-six said:


> Try the rotohammer trick next time, you will be pleasantly suprised.
> 
> How do you connect a impact to the mandrel?


Most rotary hammers have an SDS or Spline drive. A hammer drill with a jacobs style chuck is few and far between, unless you mean the typical 18V drill with hammer function, but that is pretty puny.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Most rotary hammers have an SDS or Spline drive. A hammer drill with a jacobs style chuck is few and far between, unless you mean the typical 18V drill with hammer function, but that is pretty puny.


The only holesaw arbors I have are 3/8" and 7/16" hex shafts so a socket on an impact is no biggy. I wasn't sure why he thought it would be difficult.


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## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

I carry one of these


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Or use a quick change arbor...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-8-in-Ergo-Quick-Change-Saw-Arbor-49-56-7250/202256264


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

sbrn33 said:


> You don't have spikes. Don't you lie to us.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Drilled out a 3/2.5 tract house yesterday with the m18 hole hawg. Used 4 4.0 a/h batteries to do it. Quick chuck is the only way to go. Keyed chucks are stupid. My augers and hole saw arbor are all 7/16 arbored quick chuck and makes swapping bits easy peasy.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

five.five-six said:


> I have, a buddy of mine has one with the 9.0's. It eats holes.. right up there with my hole hog. The balance is strange to me after decades of using a hole hog and it seems to be a bit heavier.
> 
> But not having the cord catch on the ladder brace every 5th time I go up and not having to roll and stretch a cord is very appealing.
> 
> ...


I've got the one with the regular chuck. I didn't want to be limited to quick connect bits.

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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

Going_Commando said:


> Drilled out a 3/2.5 tract house yesterday with the m18 hole hawg. Used 4 4.0 a/h batteries to do it. Quick chuck is the only way to go. Keyed chucks are stupid. My augers and hole saw arbor are all 7/16 arbored quick chuck and makes swapping bits easy peasy.


Your opinion of course. I say quick chucks are stupid. You can always chuck a quick connect adaptor in a standard chuck. Not the reverse. How do you use a step bit in that quick connect chuck?

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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

wendon said:


> Your opinion of course. I say quick chucks are stupid. You can always chuck a quick connect adaptor in a standard chuck. Not the reverse. How do you use a step bit in that quick connect chuck?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


Why would someone use a step bit in a hole hawg?????????????

A hole hawg is for augers, large hole saws, and self-feed bits, all of which now come with 7/16" quick-change shanks.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

wendon said:


> Your opinion of course. I say quick chucks are stupid. You can always chuck a quick connect adaptor in a standard chuck. Not the reverse. How do you use a step bit in that quick connect chuck?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


Not true, I have a 7/16" hex quick mount Jacobs chuck.

I believe I bought it from Hilti. I've posted a pic of it here before.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

wendon said:


> Your opinion of course. I say quick chucks are stupid. You can always chuck a quick connect adaptor in a standard chuck. Not the reverse. How do you use a step bit in that quick connect chuck?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


The cordless drill does the step bits, paddle bits, drill bits, carbide hole saws, etc. I only use the hole hawg for hole saws, auger bits, and self feed bits. Different tools for different uses. The hole hawg is a tool for a specific purpose, so with everything being made quick-chuck (self feeds, augers, etc), there isn't any point to use a jacobs chuck. I can run 2 auger bits when drilling, with one in my back pocket and one in the hole hawg when drilling, and swap within seconds without any tools. If I need an extension I snap in an extension, and then snap my auger or whatever into the extension. No allen wrenches, no chuck keys.


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

Most everything I would care to use in either of my M18 Hawgs comes with a 7/16" shank nowadays. I replaced my couple of hole saw arbors with ones with the same. Keyed chuck is so 1997.


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