# Greenlee stubby auger



## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

Was wondering what your feedback is on these bits. I've been doing more rough ins and am considering these to save space. I have some of the 7" and like them, just not sure if the stubby's are worth it...


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

I use the 12" nail eater bits for roughing in a job.. that stubby is good for one 2X4.. 

Just a waste of time to be changing bits when drilling holes..


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

B4T said:


> I use the 12" nail eater bits for roughing in a job.. that stubby is good for one 2X4..
> 
> Just a waste of time to be changing bits when drilling holes..


Thats what I was concerned with. I thought maybe for ceiling joists which is what I have been doing a lot of.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

That shank is way too thin, it will bend when the drill binds up. Get some ship augers and some nail eater augers. There's nothing better than a freshly sharpened auger and new pine in my opinion.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

zwodubber said:


> Thats what I was concerned with. I thought maybe for ceiling joists which is what I have been doing a lot of.


I still have a longer reach with the 12" bit.. I can get a couple of joists drilled from the same location I have the ladder..


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

chewy said:


> That shank is way too thin, it will bend when the drill binds up. Get some ship augers and *some nail eater augers*. There's nothing better than a freshly sharpened auger and new pine in my opinion.


Nail eaters are a must.. the carpenters are shooting (3) nails for every one a carpenter used to use a hammer for.. :no:


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

Completely agree with nail eaters, I have hit quite a few. I have been using Irwin Speedbor naileaters and since trying the shorter ship augers I find it hard to go back to the speedbor because the augers are so much smoother.

I was thinking stubby's for larger holes when the 18V isn't enough and need the corded Bosch, it doesn't fit between joists very well and I like to keep my runs as straight as possible.

Good feedback so far guys :thumbsup:


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

chewy said:


> That shank is way too thin, it will bend when the drill binds up. Get some ship augers and some nail eater augers. There's nothing better than a freshly sharpened auger and new pine in my opinion.



Actually Greenlee uses a thicker shank which I have already noticed the difference in.

Notice the 1.25" irwin uses a thinner shank than the 1" naileater and auger. I learned to stick with the thicker ones pretty quick.


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

B4T said:


> Nail eaters are a must.. the carpenters are shooting (3) nails for every one a carpenter used to use a hammer for.. :no:


Yeah cause 300 pound data guys are climbing the framing instead of using their ladders apparently :whistling2:


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## chewy (May 9, 2010)

zwodubber said:


> Actually Greenlee uses a thicker shank which I have already noticed the difference in.
> 
> Notice the 1.25" irwin uses a thinner shank than the 1" naileater and auger. I learned to stick with the thicker ones pretty quick.


Ah I didnt spot that on my phone, I thought it was a regular 1/4 hex drive. I actually find a sharp auger a lot faster than those speedbores, I dont like the way they get to the end of the hold and stop pushing and the spurs arent aggressive enough to be quick about busting through. If I have to use one I just drill to that point on a run then its 22oz rip claw finishing the job.


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

chewy said:


> Ah I didnt spot that on my phone, I thought it was a regular 1/4 hex drive. I actually find a sharp auger a lot faster than those speedbores, I dont like the way they get to the end of the hold and stop pushing and the spurs arent aggressive enough to be quick about busting through. If I have to use one I just drill to that point on a run then its 22oz rip claw finishing the job.


Yep, I find the augers create a much smoother cut throughout. When I got the auger pictured I tried it against the speedbor and found the auger much quicker and cleaner.


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

It's only a drill bit. Buy one and if you use it great if not then you didn't need it.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Greenlee nail eater bits in any size are the only bits we buy now. I have the stubby but have only needed it one or two times in a few years.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

B4T said:


> I still have a longer reach with the 12" bit.. I can get a couple of joists drilled from the same location I have the ladder..


 
Being as typical joists are 16" on center how is it that you can hit more than one with a 12" auger?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I have used the Greenlee 6'' nail eater in a right angle drill and the 18" in a D handle drill with great sucess for roughing in. 

I kept the 7/8" stubby drill in my 18v DeWalt small right angle for fit up type work and loved the handy size.


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## running dummy (Mar 19, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Being as typical joists are 16" on center how is it that you can hit more than one with a 12" auger?



Pretty sure he means multiple holes without having to move his ladder. Not passing through one hole to hit another joist...


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

running dummy said:


> Pretty sure he means multiple holes without having to move his ladder. Not passing through one hole to hit another joist...


 
Yeah but it gets tiring to try and figure out what someone means if they can't express it properly.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Being as typical joists are 16" on center how is it that you can hit more than one with a 12" auger?


He meant the extra reach without moving ladder. Not drilling through two at a time


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

I use an 8" auger on a 90 degree drill. Straight holes make wire pulling a lot easier, it even helps to angle the hole in the direction the cable is traveling.


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## pwregan (Apr 13, 2011)

*stubby*

Like previously said- they are a life saver in tight spots in a cordless right angle drill- on the other hand be prepared to have the shank break and have to replace the bit as the shanks are thin and weak


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

Hey dude, are you buying all of your own bits too? Or is any of this going on the company's tab?


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## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

Frasbee said:


> Hey dude, are you buying all of your own bits too? Or is any of this going on the company's tab?


I have been buying all my tools out of my pocket. I originally started as strictly PQ analyst, then got trained in thermography and did all metering and reporting. My truck, the Dranetz meters and Fluke camera were provided to me by the company. As our meters are out for long term tests I began to get involved in the field work starting off with all low voltage calls and installations. 

I then began assisting on all jobs and was given a Milwaukee V18 kit (sawzall, hammer drill, impact and flashlight) and the Ideal Securitest.

Everything else I have been purchasing other than parts used on jobs. So yes, I have been buying all my own tools and am glad to own them although I do feel certain items should be provided.


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