# Which Fluke meter?



## randomkiller

I use the 87V and recommend it highly, it's a great meter.


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## te12co2w

I second the 87 notion. The instruction pamphlet must have been written by someone that doesn't speak english and then translated because it is not that easy to understand, but the meter is a good one. I've had mine 20 years and it is still working well. The only time I've heard complaints about it is when I've lent it to someone else and they have broken the leads. This meter can be fooled by phantom voltage however. Fluke makes an adapter to address this problem. Costs around 2 or 3 hundred dollars though. I haven't bought that adapter. Also I bought the 400 amp clamp on amp meter adapter for it. That one I don't know about though. When I clamp it on it always starts out showing a lot more current than is actually flowing. From there it begins to count down until it finally steadies up on the actual current. It seems to be accurate because I've checked it against other meters, but this count down thing bothers me. I called fluke and they stopped short of telling me that was normal, but didn't offer any suggestions on whether it could be a meter or amp clamp problem.


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## william1978

I like the 87v also.


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## John

I would go with the 1587 so you have the capability of a Megger.


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## randomkiller

John said:


> I would go with the 1587 so you have the capability of a Megger.


It's close to twice the price of the 87V for that added feature.


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## John

randomkiller said:


> It's close to twice the price of the 87V for that added feature.


The OP did include the 1587 on the list, so IMHO the 1587 is the best of the lot. Mmmmmmmm.

Quality and versatility trumps purchasing something that should last a lifetime on the cheep.:thumbsup:


Carry On!


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## william1978

I also like my T1000 it fits in the in my pants pocket perfect.


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## TOOL_5150

87v is a very good meter. For a cheeper megger get an extech handheld one for eeryday use.

~Matt


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## TOOL_5150

te12co2w said:


> I second the 87 notion. The instruction pamphlet must have been written by someone that doesn't speak english and then translated because it is not that easy to understand, but the meter is a good one. I've had mine 20 years and it is still working well. The only time I've heard complaints about it is when I've lent it to someone else and they have broken the leads. This meter can be fooled by phantom voltage however. Fluke makes an adapter to address this problem. Costs around 2 or 3 hundred dollars though. I haven't bought that adapter. Also I bought the 400 amp clamp on amp meter adapter for it. That one I don't know about though. When I clamp it on it always starts out showing a lot more current than is actually flowing. From there it begins to count down until it finally steadies up on the actual current. It seems to be accurate because I've checked it against other meters, but this count down thing bothers me. I called fluke and they stopped short of telling me that was normal, but didn't offer any suggestions on whether it could be a meter or amp clamp problem.


Sounds like you have the meter on the wrong setting.

~Matt


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## 76nemo

*The best of their best.*

If you are going into Industrial and want Fluke's newest child, look at their 289. Something's not right with your amperage readings, because even with inrush, you'd never be able to watch the reading go down, you wouldn't hardly see it with min/max readings. I may have to agree with the 1587 suggestion. Although the OP didn't inquire about an IR tester, you know darned well he'll use it in Industrial work. The 1587 has the low-pass function for working with VFD's as well as the 87V and 289. It's to each their own.

87V
1587, or.....
289:thumbsup:


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## BWilson

the 87 is a great meter had one at another job then i got a t-1000 and that turned out to be my everyday meter didnt need the 87 unless i was needing to read milli-amps, i have a 787 know because i do mainly instrument work and need it for reading milli-amps and also for sourcing a 4-20milli-amp signals, but like i said for quick troubleshooting the t-1000 is a good meter easier to tote around also,

bart


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## BP_redbear

Of the list, I would also recommend the 87V. I had the 1587 and a 189.

189 was great, but it lacked the Lo Pass filter that the 87V (and the 1587) have. This feature allows you to take ACCURATE voltage readings of VSD/VFDs.

Agreed with random that the 1587 can be pricey if you don't want the megger, but understand that the 1587 is a full-featured DMM, as well as a 2.2G ohm megger.

Kinda agree with TOOL_5150 (on buying a extech megger and a 87V), however depending on what someone is willing to spend... and do I really want to pack two meters ? ... (87V plus a dedicated megger); then I would personally go with the 1587 (if I knew I was going to be megging, such as motors, which I did frequently in a food processing & packaging plant, and some but less so in 2 tool & die mfr plants).

But you can't knock the 87V for its best all-around top notch industrial testing.

Tried to get Fluke to combine the 87V 's features (with LoPass), with the 1587 (megger and LoPass), AND the data-logging, accuracy, and speed of the 189. 

Nope.

So, I had to have the 1587 and the 189. Couldn't see buying a 87V, although I wanted to. (When I got the 1587 Mitchell Instruments online (and catalog) was selling the Fluke "Motor Troubleshooting Kit", which included the 1587, a 9040 Phase Sequence Indicator, and a i400 400Amp current clamp attachment for just under $400). It was a great deal. I already had a 336 clamp, so it seemed like I had everything I ever could want...except the 189 for data-logging, and its Fluke ViewForms software to chart and print the information in detail.

Anyway, no more industrial plants for me. Now I am just a 1st year apprentice, sold everything except the 336.

*te12co2w* : I had the Fluke i400 400amp AC current clamp attachment, and I do not recall that sort of situation with it. When clamping on a conductor with steady current, it was pretty much right there, bang. Well, not BANG!!!. but, fast.
Unless it was like said earlier, like with motor inrush current, and even in that case, it reacted exactly like my Fluke 336 did (and does).


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## 76nemo

*Redbear hit it.*

He hit it on the head. I chose the 1507 because of the PI/DAR function. The 189 is splendid with logging, but to add to that, the 289 has logging capability, Low-Pass feature, and the Low-Z feature to rule out ghost V readings. The 1587 doesn't have the Low-Z feature. If I was going into the field new, and this is just me, I would go with the 289 and the i1010 clamp. Then again, I would be lacking the IR testing.

Just can't win for lose here


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## BP_redbear

iAmCam said:


> I currently do not do alot with my current meter (Canadian Tire.) But I am goign to be goign into more industrial and commercial type settings and need a new meter. I will be trouble shootign abit. I will get a Fluke. Im looking at the:
> 
> - Fluke 117
> - Fluke 1587
> - Fluke 179
> - Fluke 87V
> 
> I want to be prepared for anything. I am not sure if I should just leave the 117 out because its not the best for industrial type stuff. I am most leaning toward the 87V but not sure. _*Is One of these more limited than the others??*_
> 
> Thanks


But, to actually answer your question (in less words) _"Is one of these MORE LIMITED than the others??"_ ... One word.

*Yes.*

The 117 is the most limited ... except is this the ONLY one on the list with LoZ feature? (cancels stray voltage)

The 179 is more capable than the 117.

The 87V is more capable yet,

And, I believe the 1587 is the most capable (unless the 87V has better ranges on current, voltage, capacitance). I would have to compare features, and some of the guys who have 87V meters can better tell us.

Sorry...can't...stop...typing...long day, just got home from class...been gone since 0550. ...Now 2208. Goodnight.

BP out.


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## 76nemo

No, the 114, the 116, the 117, the 289 all have the Low-Z function:no:

The function alone may save your life:thumbsup:


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## randomkiller

76nemo said:


> No, the 114, the 116, the 117, the 289 all have the Low-Z function:no:
> 
> The function alone may save your life:thumbsup:


Very true.


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## randomkiller

John said:


> The OP did include the 1587 on the list, so IMHO the 1587 is the best of the lot. Mmmmmmmm.
> 
> Quality and versatility trumps purchasing something that should last a lifetime on the cheep.:thumbsup:
> 
> 
> Carry On!


I don't think I'm cheap, I would say thrifty. I would get the 87V and a seperate megger for way less money.


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## randomkiller

te12co2w said:


> I second the 87 notion. The instruction pamphlet must have been written by someone that doesn't speak english and then translated because it is not that easy to understand, but the meter is a good one. I've had mine 20 years and it is still working well. The only time I've heard complaints about it is when I've lent it to someone else and they have broken the leads. This meter can be fooled by phantom voltage however. Fluke makes an adapter to address this problem. Costs around 2 or 3 hundred dollars though. I haven't bought that adapter. Also I bought the 400 amp clamp on amp meter adapter for it. That one I don't know about though. When I clamp it on it always starts out showing a lot more current than is actually flowing. From there it begins to count down until it finally steadies up on the actual current. It seems to be accurate because I've checked it against other meters, but this count down thing bothers me. I called fluke and they stopped short of telling me that was normal, but didn't offer any suggestions on whether it could be a meter or amp clamp problem.


 
That adapter is less than $50 at Grainger.


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## TOOL_5150

randomkiller said:


> That adapter is less than $50 at Grainger.


What is this adapter RK?

~Matt


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## te12co2w

Thanks to Tool and others for the wrong setting tip. I think I've always been on the right setting, but I will definitely verify that. Also, to RK, I didn't check Grainger's for that adapter. I will now though.


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## Lz_69

TOOL_5150 said:


> What is this adapter RK?
> 
> ~Matt


Well the 87v has a high input impedance that can get fooled buy ghost voltages so you can use the adapter, it's probably just an impedance matching transformer, to convert it to a low impedance input. 

Here's a link to the fluke site if you want more info.

SV225 Stray Voltage Adapter

*
*


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## randomkiller

TOOL_5150 said:


> What is this adapter RK?
> 
> ~Matt


 
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2JYX4


$41.95 list


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## wptski

randomkiller said:


> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2JYX4
> 
> 
> $41.95 list


Interesting! First time that I've seen it sold by itself. Most often a tenpack or with testleads in a zipper case!


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## TOOL_5150

Awesome - That just made my 87v Even better IMO.

Thank you RK and LZ 69!

~Matt


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## TOOL_5150

te12co2w said:


> Thanks to Tool and others for the wrong setting tip. I think I've always been on the right setting, but I will definitely verify that. Also, to RK, I didn't check Grainger's for that adapter. I will now though.


I very recently had a brain fart and had my meter on the wrong setting - it did the same thing. I hope it is as simple as that for you as well.

~Matt


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## iAmCam

I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the 87V. However is this the best all around meter. I do some smaller service calls and extras in residential during the evenings. Will the 87V still be the best all around meter for every industry?


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## MechanicalDVR

iAmCam said:


> I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the 87V. However is this the best all around meter. I do some smaller service calls and extras in residential during the evenings. Will the 87V still be the best all around meter for every industry?


There is a difference in needing a meter and a basic tester, for most troubleshooting of residential electrical systems a Fluke T5 is the best thing in your back pocket, there is no need to use a real VOM all the time.


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## fungku

I got the 335 and think it's great 
It's not cheap, though...


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## wptski

MechanicalDVR said:


> There is a difference in needing a meter and a basic tester, for most troubleshooting of residential electrical systems a Fluke T5 is the best thing in your back pocket, there is no need to use a real VOM all the time.


The Fluke T5 is a high impedance tester also, so unless your not worried about stray voltage, it's fine. Although I have a T5-600V, I perfer using a Fluke T+ Pro which has a low impedance. Both are good choices as is the Fluke 87V with a stray voltage adapter handy. Some Fluke DMMs have a low impedance function along with high impedance too. All kinds of choices out there!


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## randomkiller

wptski said:


> The Fluke T5 is a high impedance tester also, so unless your not worried about stray voltage, it's fine. Although I have a T5-600V, I perfer using a Fluke T+ Pro which has a low impedance. Both are good choices as is the Fluke 87V with a stray voltage adapter handy. Some Fluke DMMs have a low impedance function along with high impedance too. All kinds of choices out there!


For day to day normal install work all you need is a T-5 or T+, you don't need to carry a $400+ meter to see if a 50' run of 12-3 has continuity. A pocket sized tester is the most used meter, hell it wasn't that far back we all went for the Volt-con over the Wiggy. Back when there was a Simpson 260 someplace out in the truck.


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## wptski

randomkiller said:


> For day to day normal install work all you need is a T-5 or T+, you don't need to carry a $400+ meter to see if a 50' run of 12-3 has continuity. A pocket sized tester is the most used meter, hell it wasn't that far back we all went for the Volt-con over the Wiggy. Back when there was a Simpson 260 someplace out in the truck.


It also depends on what type of electrician you are, construction or maintainance? A maintainance electrician who troubleshoots machinery needs a meter and a tester won't cut it. A meter can be a do all but a tester can't!

Where I retired from, maintainance electricians use to carry Fluke 87's in their back pockets of their baggy coveralls. They went to a different pants/shirt work outfits, no room for the 87's. They started supplying Fluke T5-1000's and Volt-Cons.


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## randomkiller

wptski said:


> It also depends on what type of electrician you are, construction or maintainance? A maintainance electrician who troubleshoots machinery needs a meter and a tester won't cut it. A meter can be a do all but a tester can't!
> 
> Where I retired from, maintainance electricians use to carry Fluke 87's in their back pockets of their baggy coveralls. They went to a different pants/shirt work outfits, no room for the 87's. They started supplying Fluke T5-1000's and Volt-Cons.


"For day to day normal install work "

Is it clearer now ???


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## 76nemo

randomkiller said:


> "For day to day normal install work "
> 
> Is it clearer now ???


Back up a minute killer. wptski is one of the nicest people I have ever got to know, and also very highly intelligent. I think you took him wrong, he was just trying to offer some help:thumbsup:


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## wptski

randomkiller said:


> "For day to day normal install work "
> 
> Is it clearer now ???


You better go back and read the original post to see exactly what working situation they are asking about.

Thirty years ago a industrial electrician carried a Wiggy and a continuity tester because that's all they needed for relay logic. That's not the case anymore!


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## 76nemo

wptski said:


> You better go back and read the original post to see exactly what working situation they are asking about.
> 
> Thirty years ago a industrial electrician carried a Wiggy and a continuity tester because that's all they needed for relay logic. That's not the case anymore!


 
Chick-ching, or should I say,.... "Bingo". There are dual input impedance meters on the market for a reason. I have to disagree killer, working in service and control work, we need the dual impedance input. A low impedance tester such as a Wiggy can load a circuit enough to close it, and who knows what it will close. I'll go with dual input anyday!!!:thumbsup:


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## iAmCam

Alright so some new questions.... what is the difference in a clamp meter and a normal multimeter. WHich would be better for commercial/light indust. How bout the Fluke t-5 1000 and the Fluke 337? Which would be better. I may still go ahead with the 87V but am looking into testers and clamps.


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## TOOL_5150

A clamp meter and a DMM are basically the same, one just has an amp clamp built into it. The T5 has an open jaw type meter that can accept up to #2. You can get the 87v and just buy an amp clamp for it. I think its fluke model i1010 or i410

~Matt


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## fungku

Only thing about my fluke clamp meter I don't like is I wish it were a bit shorter


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## 76nemo

fungku said:


> Only thing about my fluke clamp meter I don't like is I wish it were a bit shorter


That's why alot of people go with a clamp accessory for their DMM, like:












You can see details here:

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/A...FlukeUnitedStates&category=PRCU(FlukeProducts)


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## 76nemo

*Just AC*

There's also the i400 for AC only, and comes with either banana or BNC connectors,(i400s) for scopes, and PQA's

The i400:


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## fungku

Well, I guess it's either have something long or carry around more stuff....


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## 76nemo

fungku said:


> Well, I guess it's either have something long or carry around more stuff....


 
Unfortunately, that's the case. Either way though, you are either pulling out a clamp meter or a clamp accessory if you need amperage measurement

I fully agree with you. I have the 337, and it doesn't just go anywhere, especially when there's no slack:huh:


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## wptski

76nemo said:


> There's also the i400 for AC only, and comes with either banana or BNC connectors,(i400s) for scopes, and PQA's
> 
> The i400:


Don't forget that besides the connector difference the i400 output is 1mA/1A whereas the i400S output is a dual range, 40A is 10mV/1A and 400A is 1mV/1A. Input using mV instead of mA is a easy mistake to make using the i400!


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## 76nemo

wptski said:


> Don't forget that besides the connector difference the i400 output is 1mA/1A whereas the i400S output is a dual range, 40A is 10mV/1A and 400A is 1mV/1A. Input using mV instead of mA is a easy mistake to make using the i400!


 
Here, here Good point!!!!!!!!! I like the looks of the i400 so much better. Go ahead guys, call me feminine...............


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## wptski

76nemo said:


> Here, here Good point!!!!!!!!! I like the looks of the i400 so much better. Go ahead guys, call me feminine...............


If your using a Fluke with the 400mA input, the i400 is a direct read. If you have a scope too, you can't use the i400 with it because it doesn't have a current input like a DMM might have. On the other hand, with a BNC>banana adapter, you can use the i400S on a DMM but you have to move the decimal point for the correct value.


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## BP_redbear

*Ask yourself: Do I really need all the functions and ranges of a full-featured DMM??*

There is a difference in having a Fluke 87V with a current clamp attachment versus having a Fluke 336 clamp meter.

Both will read current, obvoiusly. But, consider all the other things that the 87V can do that the 330-series of clamps cannot.

The 330s are basically a current clamp with basic tester capabilities; voltage, resistance, continuity. The 87V has much more functions and ranges, as well as accuracy.

However, as far as current goes, the 336 that I have features 'Inrush', where the 87V with a clamp attachment wouldn't.

Also, if it is the i400 clamp attachment I used with my Fluke 189 or my Fluke 1587, the i400 is AC only, and the 336 reads AC and DC current.

Just a few points. Meter selection depends a lot on what you will be doing with it the most. I kind of wish that I had a T5-600 or T5-1000 as a Inside Wireman (apprentice), whereas the 336, 189, 1587, and i400 were just some of the tools that helped me do my job as an Industrial maintenance electrician and technician.

What I like about the T5s are that they are auto-sensing; it will auto sense AC or DC, which would be good in a plant environment where there are all kinds of voltage systems and levels. You just select 'V'. T5's are more compact... of course you can't hang it around a conductor and stare at the display with your hands on your hips like you can with the clamps.

All have their plusses and minuses. What do you want it to do?


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## randomkiller

76nemo said:


> Back up a minute killer. wptski is one of the nicest people I have ever got to know, and also very highly intelligent. I think you took him wrong, he was just trying to offer some help:thumbsup:


 
I never said he isn't a nice guy just thoiught he didn't see what I said. My meaning is there is no "one size fits all" meter, you need a few different types of meters and testers and meters to properly troubleshoot nowadays.
I like the 87V with the ghost reducer and the T-5 and the T+ Pro, I also carry a seperate megger and other meters in my truck. I don't like to put all my eggs in one basket. 
Never cared for Swiss Army knives either.


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## BP_redbear

Back off killer.
I use the nail file on my Swiss Army knife for my big toenails.
Nevermind.


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## 76nemo

randomkiller said:


> I never said he isn't a nice guy just thoiught he didn't see what I said. My meaning is there is no "one size fits all" meter, you need a few different types of meters and testers and meters to properly troubleshoot nowadays.
> I like the 87V with the ghost reducer and the T-5 and the T+ Pro, I also carry a seperate megger and other meters in my truck. I don't like to put all my eggs in one basket.
> Never cared for Swiss Army knives either.


 

I gotcha, I thought you're ready to jump on him. Maybe it's your avatar rk No, honestly, sometimes these forums get out of hand, as I have seen in others. I have seen knock down dragouts over nothing more than someone just having a bad day.

All said.


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## randomkiller

BP_redbear said:


> Back off killer.
> I use the nail file on my Swiss Army knife for my big toenails.
> Nevermind.


 
As long as you don't become one of those guys that thinks a pocket full of multi tools can solve your daily tool needs. Have you met the type that carries a swiss army knife, 10 in 1 screwdriver, couple different leathermens, a gerber visegrip multitool, a jumper wire, a gatorgrip wrench, and a meter the size of a business card with attached leads?


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## BP_redbear

randomkiller said:


> As long as you don't become one of those guys that thinks a pocket full of multi tools can solve your daily tool needs. Have you met the type that carries a swiss army knife, 10 in 1 screwdriver, couple different leathermens, a gerber visegrip multitool, a jumper wire, a gatorgrip wrench, and a meter the size of a business card with attached leads?


Nah. I was just making fun of nemo and your exchange. I have 3 or 4 Swiss army knives in my knife collection, some Wenger, some Victorinox, but don't really use them much, except the one that has the file on it. They are made well, and the blades being relatively thin, they do cut and strip well, as opposed to many pocket knives where the blade is thick and kind of wedges its way through material with more effort required.

I don't have any use for the Leatherman-type multi-tools. I know that many people do. My opinion is that they are marginally useful on some things, but not masterfully useful at anything. Trying to think of my most used multi-tool right now. It's probably my lineman pliers!

My heritage is German-Swiss, so I had to speak up about your Swiss army knife comment rk. You know the history of the Swiss army knife. It was a multi-tool designed for soldiers to maintain their firearms, kind of like the combo tools supplied with the US M1 and USM14 rifles.

Anyway. Take care of your meters, never read voltage with your test leads in the amperage jacks, and unless you have a meter as good as Fluke's, never test for voltage with the meter set on resistance (don't do it even with a Fluke, lol. Fluke just has internal safeguard circuitry to protect the meter). Apparently, or obviously some don't, as a co-worker did just that (read voltage with meter set on ohms, or maybe he had the leads in the current jacks. All I can recall is he said it 'blew up' his meter. Probably his own stupidity, although it is easy to be reading resistance, say on a removed fuse, then go to test for voltage without changing the selector to voltage. 

Later.
BP out


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