# stranded aluminum spliced to solid copper at range



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

You are supposted to use a listed al to copper connector like the little $6 barrel ones that use a set screw on each end sold at Home Depot. Me and my friend Hax love those. However having said all that, I still ain't ever seen a real melt down due solely to mixing aluminum to copper. I've seen a few times that a mess of copper and aluminum wiring together in a large gray wirenut melted, but it was due to having way too many conductors in there in the first place and nothing was really tightened down to the proper torque anyhow. So there , I just said it. Maybe it happens on boats and other places where salt air adds to the mix.


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## johnnyfalcon (Oct 17, 2017)

macmikeman said:


> You are supposted to use a listed al to copper connector like the little $6 barrel ones that use a set screw on each end sold at Home Depot. Me and my friend Hax love those. However having said all that, I still ain't ever seen a real melt down due solely to mixing aluminum to copper. I've seen a few times that a mess of copper and aluminum wiring together in a large gray wirenut melted, but it was due to having way too many conductors in there in the first place and nothing was really tightened down to the proper torque anyhow. So there , I just said it. Maybe it happens on boats and other places where salt air adds to the mix.


not sure what the barrel connecters are. but i appreciate the response


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

johnnyfalcon said:


> not sure what the barrel connecters are. but i appreciate the response


This is what I think of.


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

Here's where a two port Polaris lug would work.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

hardworkingstiff said:


> This is what I think of.


Yup. Basically a Polaris connector without the rubber jacket and 1/4 the price.


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Yup. Basically a Polaris connector without the rubber jacket and 1/4 the price.


How do you insulate that? I've wrapped it with rubber then vinyl tape, but it seems bulky.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

hardworkingstiff said:


> How do you insulate that? I've wrapped it with rubber then vinyl tape, but it seems bulky.


I will use either rubber tape or a mastic pad, then normal tape (the wider one).

When I could find a good price on a bulk order I will use those plastic suitcase style thingies that you can close around the connector:

https://www.amazon.com/Burndy-CCO-Crimpit-Connector-Length/dp/B008KNNAA6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8

As you can see they are $2 each there, but they go on crazy sales, last time I got them for $12.09, less than 50 cents each.

The Burndy CCO works perfectly around the $5 barrel connector from Home Depot that does up to 250MCM. Total of $6 for what would cost $26 from Polaris.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Either the Polaris or the uninsulated barrel connectors will work fine to me it depends on the space limits you have to work in.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Either the Polaris or the uninsulated barrel connectors will work fine to me it depends on the space limits you have to work in.


Especially when doing it hot.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Especially when doing it hot.


Too true!


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

Aluminum connected to Copper results in Galvanic Corrosion of the Dissimilar Metals. The aluminum does not melt, it corrodes. I always use a plated split bolt where there is a plate between to two conductors.

The same is true when aluminum touches concrete. The Anode / Cathode current flow will cause the aluminum to corrode. A good example is an aluminum lamp post in concrete. The post will corrode at the top of the concrete. I never mount them in concrete, I just compact the soil. If you're mounting an aluminum lighting standard to a concrete base, you should have an insulator like rubber between the aluminum and concrete. Squares of old mining belt work well.


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## samgregger (Jan 23, 2013)

hardworkingstiff said:


> How do you insulate that? I've wrapped it with rubber then vinyl tape, but it seems bulky.


Heatshrink


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

hardworkingstiff said:


> This is what I think of.


With an inline splice and working in a small box, space can be an issue, not to mention short wires. The alumiconn or polaris are side by side but bulky and expensive. The Al-Cu split bolts are good but need a big ball of tape so they wind up pretty big too. A simple two hole lug isn't too far off the mark 










It's not far from an uninsulated alumiconn 










much cheaper and handles up to 2 gauge yet smaller in the box. Some smart lug manufacturer should come up with a two hole lug without a mounting tab as a connector, maybe make the corners a little rounder so it's easier to insulate.


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