# Stove & Dryer Receptacles



## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

Deep 4-square metal box with bracket and double gang mud ring.


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## wired 1 (Sep 24, 2013)

*stove or dryer*



Little-Lectric said:


> If you are putting in recessed boxes for the stove and dryer, do you prefer a single gang nail-on, 2-gang nail-on, or 4" sq metal box?


 ummmm you need a 4 11/16 box, not 4x4 or gang able...


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

wired 1 said:


> ummmm you need a 4 11/16 box, not 4x4 or gang able...


Why? How do you fasten a recessed dryer recept to a 4 11/16 box?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

A two gang DEEP nailon is the best way to go.. that is 3.5" deep.. you wont get that with any metal 1900 box.. :no::no:


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

B4T said:


> A two gang DEEP Carlon Blue nailon is the best way to go.. that is 3.5" deep.. you wont get that with any metal 1900 box.. :no::no:


:thumbsup: FIFY


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

B4T said:


> A two gang DEEP nailon is the best way to go.. that is 3.5" deep.. you wont get that with any metal 1900 box.. :no::no:


Do you use a metal or plastic plate with that?


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## wired 1 (Sep 24, 2013)

*stove/dryer*



wendon said:


> Why? How do you fasten a recessed dryer recept to a 4 11/16 box?


 American?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Little-Lectric said:


> Do you use a metal or plastic plate with that?


You don't need a plate with a nail-on box.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

wendon said:


> Why? How do you fasten a recessed dryer recept to a 4 11/16 box?


By using a 2-gang plate the same as if it was a 1900 box. But I disagree with the guy saying a 4 11/16 is necessary.


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

The thread title says "stove or dryer".

Any of the three choices in the op will work for the dryer recept.

The stove recept, however needs to be two gang and sturdy. Even a two gang nail-on, if it's not supported by a block on the other side, can flex back into the wall when someone crams in the range cord.

Carlon makes a nice little two gang nail on with a range cable clamp, otherwise a deep four square with nail bracket is the sturdiest.


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## darren79 (Dec 20, 2011)

HackWork said:


> By using a 2-gang plate the same as if it was a 1900 box. But I disagree with the guy saying a 4 11/16 is necessary.


That is the only way I have seen them done, must be a Canadian thing.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/30-amp-dryer-receptacle/947947

No way that is going on a 4x4.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I would go the metal box route myself. 99% of the installations I see in new construction are 2 gang nail on boxes.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

darren79 said:


> That is the only way I have seen them done, must be a Canadian thing.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.ca/product/30-amp-dryer-receptacle/947947
> 
> No way that is going on a 4x4.


That's right. 4-11/16 (deep) box for both dryer and range receptacles.

I gotta find a Canadian flag...


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

MTW said:


> I would go the metal box route myself. 99% of the installations I see in new construction are 2 gang nail on boxes.


Why would you use a metal box.. :blink::blink:

Deep 2/gang gives you plenty of room... any metal box won't have the sq. inch as the nailon....

I'm talking about either 1900 or 411/16... BBQ will throw out some weird box nobody ever saw... except him.. :laughing:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

B4T said:


> Why would you use a metal box.. :blink::blink:


Primarily durability, especially having to deal with #10 and #6 wires.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

MTW said:


> Primarily durability, especially having to deal with #10 and #6 wires.


#6 wire is EZ.. you just roll it in place.. I never have to fight with it.. 

You need to "custom cut" the conductors on the receptacle so they are all the same length...

I say this because I have taken enough of them apart where all the conductors were the same length before attacked to the receptacle...

I'm sure you already know this... so it is for anyone reading this who doesn't... :thumbsup:


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

For B4T...










6" :laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> For B4T...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh yes... ACE Hardware had (10) of those sitting on the shelf just waiting for a home.. :laughing:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

B4T said:


> Oh yes... ACE Hardware had (10) of those sitting on the shelf just waiting for a home.. :laughing:


You sure about that? I doubt Ace would sell such and odd item.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

:laughing:

I never really got the metal box for range or dryers either. When I redid my laundry the old plastic box went out and a new one went in 2 seconds with my claw hammer done. Metal boxes with NM is :jester:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Jlarson said:


> :laughing:
> 
> I never really got the metal box for range or dryers either. When I redid my laundry the old plastic box went out and a new one went in 2 seconds with my claw hammer done. Metal boxes with NM is :jester:


Wow, you're awesome.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

MTW said:


> You sure about that? I doubt Ace would sell such and odd item.


That was a joke..... even my supply house wouldn't have a box like that.. :no::no:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

B4T said:


> That was a joke..... even my supply house wouldn't have a box like that.. :no::no:


Ok.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

B4T said:


> even my supply house wouldn't have a box like that..


I found out about those things when some computer tard wanted them for cat5. We didn't go for it :laughing:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Jlarson said:


> I found out about those things when some computer tard wanted them for cat5. We didn't go for it :laughing:


I would bet finding a cover to fit a 4/wire 50A. receptacle is almost impossible..


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

MTW said:


> Wow, you're awesome.


I know. :thumbup:

Still don't see why the dryer needs a metal box :laughing:


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

B4T said:


> #6 wire is EZ.. you just roll it in place.. I never have to fight with it..
> 
> You need to "custom cut" the conductors on the receptacle so they are all the same length...
> 
> ...


Why did your wires "attack" the receptacle?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Little-Lectric said:


> Why did your wires "attack" the receptacle?


Well.... excuseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee me..


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## farmantenna (Nov 22, 2012)

I use the special range/dryer(2g) box by Arlington or Allied molded which is approved the larger wire size.


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## HadItUpToHere (Aug 16, 2013)

> http://www.homedepot.ca/product/30-amp-dryer-receptacle/947947


This bad boy on a 4 and 11/16 box. Only way I've ever done it.


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## mbednarik (Oct 10, 2011)

A standard 2 gang nail up will fail a rough here if it has anything larger than #8 wire installed. Carlon said it is not suitable for anything larger than 10.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

2-gang nail-on. It's a dryer receptacle not a space shuttle.


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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

3xdad said:


> The thread title says "stove or dryer".
> 
> Any of the three choices in the op will work for the dryer recept.
> 
> ...


the op says stove AND dryer. in the same box?:001_huh:


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

these w/range clamp>








~CS~


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

erics37 said:


> 2-gang nail-on. It's a dryer receptacle not a space shuttle.


NO!!! Electrical construction is much more complicated then the space shuttle.


:laughing::laughing:


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

I worked for an EC that did new homes exclusively and at the time (99-00), we were still using the 1996 NEC so we always installed a one gang box with a 10/3 in it for the dryer receptacle because the 3-wire outlet would fit in it.  Then the code changed but the guys running the crews would still install a one gang. You really had to jam the 4-wire outlet in there.


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## Meadow (Jan 14, 2011)

2 gang, sometimes with adjustable out screws where plug can be seen.


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## isaacelectricllc (Dec 30, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> If you are putting in recessed boxes for the stove and dryer, do you prefer a single gang nail-on, 2-gang nail-on, or 4" sq metal box?



For dryers, its a 2 1/8" deep 1900 box with a 5/8" two gang mud ring. For ranges, a 2 1/8" deep 1900 box with a 1 1/4" two gang ring. I just set the box back to where the mud ring sticks out about 1/2" past the framing.
I like to have lots of room to shove the wires back.


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## mark35 (Mar 24, 2009)

HadItUpToHere said:


> This bad boy on a 4 and 11/16 box. Only way I've ever done it.


That's cool, never saw one of them before. After some trial and error, I'm now leaning towards these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...60-55050-000/202077645?N=1z11wfr#.UkquzhbvyqQ

The lugs are easy to tighten and your conductors will bend easily into place as opposed to terminating them onto a receptacle and then fold/jam them back into the box. Even in new construction you can use them. On the finish bring your 6/3 up near the base of the wall and mount this sucker down low horizontally so the appliance cord will fold into the stove's cavity when pushed back, and you'll be able to remove the bottom draw and unplug the stove when necessary.


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## mbednarik (Oct 10, 2011)

mark35 said:


> That's cool, never saw one of them before. After some trial and error, I'm now leaning towards these:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-50-Amp-Single-Surface-Mounted-Single-Outlet-Black-R60-55050-000/202077645?N=1z11wfr#.UkquzhbvyqQ
> 
> The lugs are easy to tighten and your conductors will bend easily into place as opposed to terminating them onto a receptacle and then fold/jam them back into the box. Even in new construction you can use them. On the finish bring your 6/3 up near the base of the wall and mount this sucker down low horizontally so the appliance cord will fold into the stove's cavity when pushed back, and you'll be able to remove the bottom draw and unplug the stove when necessary.


some of the new double ovens dont have a bottom drawer or room for the surface outlet. It will stick out from the wall.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

mbednarik said:


> some of the new double ovens dont have a bottom drawer or room for the surface outlet. It will stick out from the wall.


This is why I won't do the wiring for any kitchen appliance without having a cut sheet in advance....

I had to eat the labor of a repair once... I'm not going through that again for free... :no::no:


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Ok, now that we've settled the question about the kind of box, what is the height that you set the dryer box?

I always set the range receptacle as low as I can, trying to hit the area where the stove drawer will be.
But I see dryer receptacles all over the place. High, low, somewhere between. Mine at home is above the dryer.

What is the most common height for the dryer box?


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## Locknutz (Sep 7, 2012)

Little-Lectric said:


> Ok, now that we've settled the question about the kind of box, what is the height that you set the dryer box? I always set the range receptacle as low as I can, trying to hit the area where the stove drawer will be. But I see dryer receptacles all over the place. High, low, somewhere between. Mine at home is above the dryer. What is the most common height for the dryer box?



48" o.c. is the standard here


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

36" to the bottom of the box


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## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

I'd put a 4' 11/16 or 5s for some of you with a two gang p-ring for the stove. It'll cost ya a quarter more. Plenty of room. No bs


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

I do 2gang plastic boxes for both. Standard receptacle height for stove and switch height for dryer and laundry circuit.


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