# Oscillating multi tool blades



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Have you tried carbide grit blades?


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Use Imperian grit blades. I get many holes out of each, even with the hard plaster.

With wood lathe sometimes I switch to a wood blade. Sometimes the grit blade will cut the wood lath without burning. 

https://www.imperialblades.com/products-3/iboa640-one-fit-1-14-carbide-grit-blade/


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Bookmarked.:thumbsup:


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

https://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Bla...9&sr=1-5&keywords=imperial+blades+oscillating

I still have the first one I bought and it will still cut plaster, although not as well as the newer ones. I cant say how many holes you will get out of each blade, but it's a lot. It's not like using a toothed blade where you will get 2-3 holes before the teeth are gone.


----------



## mcsparks (Oct 22, 2016)

Thanks for the suggestions! I didn't know the carbide grit ones work so much better on plaster...


----------



## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

HackWork said:


> Use Imperian grit blades. I get many holes out of each, even with the hard plaster.
> 
> With wood lathe sometimes I switch to a wood blade. Sometimes the grit blade will cut the wood lath without burning.
> 
> https://www.imperialblades.com/products-3/iboa640-one-fit-1-14-carbide-grit-blade/


Thats what I do. Zip throught the plaster with the carbide blade, then switch to a wood blade with the lathe.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Thats what I do. Zip throught the plaster with the carbide blade, then switch to a wood blade with the lathe.


I started doing it that way. I have an older Rockwell Sonicrafter which works great, but it has an allen-head screw to hold the blades in, which is a bit of a pain to change. Sometimes the wood lath is soft enough that the grit blade will cut it pretty easily as well, which makes the process faster and easier, especially if I'm doing a bunch of holes.


----------



## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

I use carbide grit then wood like the rest have mentioned. The M18 Milwaukee is tool less quick change. 
On a side note, I came up with this brilliant idea to design a box cutting attachment for an oscillating tool only to find out that it already exists


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

NDC said:


> I use carbide grit then wood like the rest have mentioned. The M18 Milwaukee is tool less quick change.
> On a side note, I came up with this brilliant idea to design a box cutting attachment for an oscillating tool only to find out that it already exists
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BqVg_6cCYs


That thing is the schnizzle !


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

NDC said:


> I use carbide grit then wood like the rest have mentioned. The M18 Milwaukee is tool less quick change.
> On a side note, I came up with this brilliant idea to design a box cutting attachment for an oscillating tool only to find out that it already exists
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BqVg_6cCYs


I've never used an oscillating tool for drywall. I know people do, and other people use the Hackzall, but it's just so damn easy to use a jabsaw that I couldn't imagine using anything else. I tape a bag or the top of my Cadweld box to the wall underneath the cut-out, cut the hole, and I'm done in 60 seconds without a speck of dust anywhere.

The funny thing is that I am a really lazy bastard. But using those tools just seems like more work.


----------



## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

HackWork said:


> I've never used an oscillating tool for drywall. I know people do, and other people use the Hackzall, but it's just so damn easy to use a jabsaw that I couldn't imagine using anything else. I tape a bag or the top of my Cadweld box to the wall underneath the cut-out, cut the hole, and I'm done in 60 seconds without a speck of dust anywhere.
> 
> The funny thing is that I am a really lazy bastard. But using those tools just seems like more work.



An old coworker did this on a job once. He tapes a bag under where he was going to make his cut and I thought it was the most brilliant thing to do. Then he removed the tape and tore off a strip of paint. 
Apparently the homeowner had just painted that week and it dint cure yet.
They had extra paint so it was no biggy but the look on my coworkers face was priceless 
 <-- this was the look to a T


----------



## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

The dremel carbide blades have teeth so they do a little better, but pale compared to a wood blade. For a while I was running 2 m12 multi tools, 1 with carbide and 1 with a wood blade, but my older one was dropped in a puddle and died .


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

NDC said:


> An old coworker did this on a job once. He tapes a bag under where he was going to make his cut and I thought it was the most brilliant thing to do. Then he removed the tape and tore off a strip of paint.
> Apparently the homeowner had just painted that week and it dint cure yet.
> They had extra paint so it was no biggy but the look on my coworkers face was priceless
> <-- this was the look to a T


I used to use blue painters tape, but I am too lazy to bring that in so now I mostly use white electrical tape, which is always in my service tray. It doesn't stick to paint well enough to rip it off. Just don't put it too close to the hole.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> The dremel carbide blades have teeth so they do a little better, but pale compared to a wood blade. For a while I was running 2 m12 multi tools, 1 with carbide and 1 with a wood blade, but my older one was dropped in a puddle and died .


Carbide? Teeth?

We are mixing terms here. Are you talking about grit blades at all? 

Carbide is the type of metal, you can have carbide toothed blades, carbide grit, etc.


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

HackWork said:


> I've never used an oscillating tool for drywall. I know people do, and other people use the Hackzall, but it's just so damn easy to use a jabsaw that I couldn't imagine using anything else. I tape a bag or the top of my Cadweld box to the wall underneath the cut-out, cut the hole, and I'm done in 60 seconds without a speck of dust anywhere.
> 
> The funny thing is that I am a really lazy bastard. But using those tools just seems like more work.



Wait wait wait a stinking minute here. You derided me for using a jabsaw to cut out holes for recess fixtures instead of a power tool to go fast, yet you are now endorsing not using the power tools to cut outlets? Are you racist against outlets? That seems like it's not very inclusive you know.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> Wait wait wait a stinking minute here. You derided me for using a jabsaw to cut out holes for recess fixtures instead of a power tool to go fast, yet you are now endorsing not using the power tools to cut outlets? Are you racist against outlets? That seems like it's not very inclusive you know.


This is true. I'm not denying it.

There is no way to cut out a hole in the ceiling with a jab saw without making dust. Plus, recessed lights require a cleaner and more perfect shaped hole.


----------



## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I saw this thing and thought about buying it, if it wasn't $40 I probably would have. It would look forward to saving time on the marking more than the cutting. 

But I thought about it, when you cut in with a saw, you make a horizontal cut first to make sure you aren't on a stud. That way if you are off you can move left or right a little and no problem. Doing it this way saves a headache fairly often. 

With this thing, if you are wrong with your stud finding, you have a bit of a mess to patch up. 



NDC said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BqVg_6cCYs


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Very true spatz. I do the same exact thing. I cut the horizontally line before putting any pencil marks on the wall.


----------



## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

NDC said:


> I use carbide grit then wood like the rest have mentioned. The M18 Milwaukee is tool less quick change.
> On a side note, I came up with this brilliant idea to design a box cutting attachment for an oscillating tool only to find out that it already exists
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BqVg_6cCYs


That's pretty neat. 






After watching that video, this related video showed up next. How bout them apples? I know, not related to the discussion at hand. But still pretty cool.


----------



## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

mcsparks said:


> Just curious what residential guys are using to cut in old work boxes through lathe and plaster walls... no matter what brand I use, it seems that my multi tool blades are only good for cutting in two or three boxes before they go dull. For cost savings I tried some of the cheapo Harbor freight ones and they seemed to go dull just as fast as the name brand ones that cost two or three times as much.


Didn't read a single reply but....since we're both in MN, you anywhere near Acme in Plymouth? I get my blades from them, Imperial. You can order online too or at HD online....

I like the Imperials, they're made in USA too.


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

splatz said:


> I saw this thing and thought about buying it, if it wasn't $40 I probably would have. It would look forward to saving time on the marking more than the cutting.
> 
> But I thought about it, when you cut in with a saw, you make a horizontal cut first to make sure you aren't on a stud. That way if you are off you can move left or right a little and no problem. Doing it this way saves a headache fairly often.
> 
> With this thing, if you are wrong with your stud finding, you have a bit of a mess to patch up.


I've thought about making a template for cut ins but haven't gone through with it. Need to find a hard plastic for the mold. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

zac, you mean like a size of a sg box?


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

Majewski said:


> zac, you mean like a size of a sg box?


Single gang cut in

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

zac said:


> Single gang cut in
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


Iguess I could just cut off the ears and trace it

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I've been seeing things like this on facebook non stop for the last 3 days.


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> I've thought about making a template for cut ins but haven't gone through with it. Need to find a hard plastic for the mold.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


I saved a little bubble level vial for about 12 years with the plan on attaching it to the cut-in box template that I never got around to making. I was going to use thick plexi-glass. 

The box itself works good enough though lol.


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

zac said:


> I've thought about making a template for cut ins but haven't gone through with it. Need to find a hard plastic for the mold.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk




you mean like this?









https://www.amazon.com/LABOR-SAVING...78308122&sr=8-1&keywords=labor+saving+devices


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drspec said:


> you mean like this?
> 
> View attachment 94490
> 
> ...


I remember seeing that long ago, but those notches don't work with the typical cut-in box that I use.


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

drspec said:


> you mean like this?
> 
> View attachment 94490
> 
> ...


Thanks, but as hack said my cut ins would not jive with that template. 
Somebody call Racketeers up! 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

or this?


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

what cut in boxes are you using?

Ive used it for years with 1 and 2 gang P&S and Carlon with no issue


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drspec said:


> what cut in boxes are you using?
> 
> Ive used it for years with 1 and 2 gang P&S and Carlon with no issue


This box is made by Pass & Seymour as well as Slater and a bunch of other brand names. It requires a rectangular cutout. I just trace around the box and then remove the box and fill in where the ears were.


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

I use the carlons as well and another brand that has two screws on the side of the box, maybe arlington? I just don't understand it not being square. 
My marks are 2 1/4" wide and 3 3/4" long....perfect rectangle. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

HackWork said:


> This box is made by Pass & Seymour as well as Slater and a bunch of other brand names. It requires a rectangular cutout. I just trace around the box and then remove the box and fill in where the ears were.
> 
> View attachment 94506



thats the same box I use and the template works perfect for it and it has the levels built in 

Ill occasionally trace around a box and eyeball it but the template makes it easier


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

zac said:


> I use the carlons as well and another brand that has two screws on the side of the box, maybe arlington? I just don't understand it not being square.
> My marks are 2 1/4" wide and 3 3/4" long....perfect rectangle.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


why do the notches bother you so bad? just extend the lines and cut the hole

its not that difficult


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

drspec said:


> why do the notches bother you so bad? just extend the lines and cut the hole
> 
> its not that difficult


Well I'm not a Dr.!
I will have to check it out. Where did you buy it? 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

zac said:


> I've thought about making a template for cut ins but haven't gone through with it. Need to find a hard plastic for the mold.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


I used heavy guage sheetmetal and it worked well.


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

MechanicalDVR said:


> I used heavy guage sheetmetal and it worked well.


I thought about that but didn't want to get stitches pulling the rascal out. 
Did you sand off the edges? 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drspec said:


> why do the notches bother you so bad? just extend the lines and cut the hole
> 
> its not that difficult


The same thing applies to tracing around the box. Just extend the lines where the ears are. Why carry about something else?


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

zac said:


> Well I'm not a Dr.!
> I will have to check it out. Where did you buy it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


I get all my LSD from Tech Tool Supply http://www.techtoolsupply.com/Ez-Cut-Wall-Box-Template-Level-p/53-315.htm


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

HackWork said:


> The same thing applies to tracing around the box. Just extend the lines where the ears are. Why carry about something else?


do you use a level with the box or just eyeball it?

if Im cutting in just 1 or 2 boxes ill generally just trace around the box

if Im cutting in several Ill grab the template


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drspec said:


> why do the notches bother you so bad? just extend the lines and cut the hole
> 
> its not that difficult


Templates should be completely _*mindless*_ so you can point at a room and tell an apprentice to go cut one in here here and here on these 'x's and it gets done with little remorse or yelling.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

zac said:


> I thought about that but didn't want to get stitches pulling the rascal out.
> Did you sand off the edges?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


Yes it's sanded smooth and has a lip for a torpedo level.


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

zac said:


> Well I'm not a Dr.!
> I will have to check it out. Where did you buy it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk



Im not a real dr either.....Telsa let that cat out of the bag a few weeks back :icon_cry:


I ordered the last one from Amazon


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

drspec said:


> do you use a level with the box or just eyeball it?
> 
> if Im cutting in just 1 or 2 boxes ill generally just trace around the box
> 
> if Im cutting in several Ill grab the template


I haven't used a level while cutting out box holes in years. I eyeball everything. Many times in old houses you don't want things level anyway.


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Templates should be completely _*mindless*_ so you can point at a room and tell an apprentice to go cut one in here here and here on these 'x's and it gets done with little remorse or yelling.


Im sorry that template is not simple enough for you. Maybe I should design a perfectly square one with instructions on it so you know where to start the pencil and what direction to trace around it.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

drspec said:


> Im sorry that template is not simple enough for you. Maybe I should design a perfectly square one with instructions on it so you know where to start the pencil and what direction to trace around it.


Templates should be completely mindless, like an apprentice. A mechanic should be capable of using an actual box.


----------



## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

I must confess....I actually traced around a 2 gang box today and I didnt use a level either


----------



## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

You don't need to level the box because there is plenty of play in the device to get it level when installing it.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> You don't need to level the box because there is plenty of play in the device to get it level when installing it.


Some guys that have bad OCD would insist that the cut out is level and plumb or they would lose sleep over it after the fact.


----------



## zac (May 11, 2009)

HackWork said:


> You don't need to level the box because there is plenty of play in the device to get it level when installing it.


Yes but when you start going 3 gang it's a pain in the nalga. That and my vision is some what cross-eyed! 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## mcsparks (Oct 22, 2016)

Majewski, I'll check out acme tool.... would much rather support a smaller outfit instead of one of the big box joints !


----------



## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Some guys that have bad OCD would insist that the cut out is level and plumb or they would lose sleep over it after the fact.


You can count me among those guys. 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

HackWork said:


> I get all my LSD from Tech Tool Supply http://www.techtoolsupply.com/Ez-Cut-Wall-Box-Template-Level-p/53-315.htm


I get all my LSD from the bartender at ******************


----------



## Jarp Habib (May 18, 2014)

Doublepost


----------



## Jarp Habib (May 18, 2014)

NDC said:


> I use carbide grit then wood like the rest have mentioned. The M18 Milwaukee is tool less quick change.
> On a side note, I came up with this brilliant idea to design a box cutting attachment for an oscillating tool only to find out that it already exists


Whoa. That thing is ridiculously slick.


----------



## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Just talked to my rep, that's #42700 and $52.83......who's gonna order it first!?


----------

