# Conduit bending



## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

I bought a few bundles off conduit and a bender and practiced doing box off sets, kicks and 45's. This was before 1/2 " emt would bend just by looking at it. I would unbend the bends I made and use the same piece of emt over and over again until it wouldn't straighten out. I don't know anyone who has purchased a book or dvd so I can't comment on if they suck or not. Hands on learning is always better IMO.


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## Wireman191 (Aug 28, 2011)

Bulldog1 said:


> I bought a few bundles off conduit and a bender and practiced doing box off sets, kicks and 45's. This was before 1/2 " emt would bend just by looking at it. I would unbend the bends I made and use the same piece of emt over and over again until it wouldn't straighten out. I don't know anyone who has purchased a book or dvd so I can't comment on if they suck or not. Hands on learning is always better IMO.


 I agree 110% but if your looking to buy something to get a little better, here ya go.:thumbsup:


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## Lz_69 (Nov 1, 2007)

You can get it direct publisher for about $20, I sort of like the Benfield book a little better for learning basic stuff since if I remember correctly the Cox book kind of leaned towards using trig for everything.

http://www.coxco.net/Conduit_pipe_Bending_Book_p/b0010.htm


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

For teaching newbies I firmly believe it's best for them to not develop any bad habits/incorrect habits right out of the gate. Just taking a bundle of pipe and letting them learn by trial and error without any instructions is a how this happens. As a journeyman either teach the newbie right or make them get a good conduit book (my favorite is either Richard Cox's or this one: http://www.conduitbending.com/Home.htm )

My list of GOOD habits would include:

*Offset measurements should be center-to-center measurement NOT overall (bottom of pipe to top of pipe).

*A 90's measurement should be to the back of the bend.

*Get an accurate measurement, to the nearest 1/16th (my first JW would say his measurements like this: 4 and 7/16+" or 9 and 3/16-" for example).

* Typically use only 45, 30, 15, and 5 degree bends for offsets. Makes it easier for the next guy when trying to match bends (angle preferences vary).

* When running rigid, run a few extra threads on the end of the pipe entering a box. This allows a little forgiveness on a poorly bent 90 or offset.

*Use a sharp pencil or marker (PLEASE don't let this start another rant about permanant markers).

* Any others???


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

I have a copy of a book scanned here. It's about 10 megs....great book. Not sure on the name although i'm sure some of you could tell me what it is by the content. It's great!


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## Wireman191 (Aug 28, 2011)

bill39 said:


> For teaching newbies I firmly believe it's best for them to not develop any bad habits/incorrect habits right out of the gate. Just taking a bundle of pipe and letting them learn by trial and error without any instructions is a how this happens. As a journeyman either teach the newbie right or make them get a good conduit book (my favorite is either Richard Cox's or this one: http://www.conduitbending.com/Home.htm )
> 
> My list of GOOD habits would include:
> 
> ...


 Permanent markers.:no:


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Permanent markers, yes....... Your an idiot if a permanent marker is your idea of bad habit.


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## troublemaker1701 (Aug 11, 2011)

here is a basic hand bending quide
http://www.kleintools.com/sites/kle...d-Benders-ConduitBenderGuide-Instructions.pdf


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Wireman191 said:


> Permanent markers.:no:





Bkessler said:


> Permanent markers, yes....... Your an idiot if a permanent marker is your idea of bad habit.


I would not say your an idiot to think that, just someone that has their priorities out of order.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

BBQ said:


> I would not say your an idiot to think that, just someone that has their priorities out of order.


Isn't out of whack priorities the definition of a moron at least, maybe an idiot is a bit harsh.


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

Bkessler said:


> Isn't out of whack priorities the definition of a moron at least, maybe an idiot is a bit harsh.


I would hope that we could all agree that pencil is preferred to permanent markers. I don't care what you use and anyone except another electrician wouldn't even notice. But having permanent black marks on your pipe is noticeable. Unless of course you rub the marks off after.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

CheapCharlie said:


> I would hope that we could all agree that pencil is preferred to permanent markers. I don't care what you use and anyone except another electrician wouldn't even notice. But having permanent black marks on your pipe is noticeable. Unless of course you rub the marks off after.


Nope I leave it on there for the world to see.


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

PLEASE!!!! not another rant about using permanant markers on conduit. That's been done enough.

How about some other GOOD conduit bending habits.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

CheapCharlie said:


> I would hope that we could all agree that pencil is preferred to permanent markers.


I don't worry about that anymore than I worry about the stickers or EMT that is inch marked.

If the job is leaving unpainted EMT exposed obviously the customer does not care about the looks.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

bill39 said:


> PLEASE!!!! not another rant about using permanant markers on conduit. That's been done enough.


OK boss, when is break?


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## Aegis (Mar 18, 2011)

Best way to teach someone is show them how, then watch them do it and then offer some tips during or after they're done. After that it's experience and learning from mistakes. IMHO.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

BBQ said:


> I don't worry about anymore than I worry about the stickers or EMT that is inch marked.
> 
> If the job is leaving unpainted EMT exposed obviously the customer does not care about the looks.


Maybe if your work looks like dog dirt the marker looks bad.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

learn to bend conduit correctly, best web site out there, and its FREE

http://www.porcupinepress.com/_bending/ParallelBends.htm

(put arrow on gray rectangle on left, it list all bend types)


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

360max said:


> learn to bend conduit correctly, best web site out there, and its FREE
> 
> http://www.porcupinepress.com/_bending/ParallelBends.htm
> 
> (put arrow on gray rectangle on left, it list all bend types)


The best way to learn is to be on a job with 50,000 feet that needs to be installed.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

Bkessler said:


> The best way to learn is to be on a job with 50,000 feet that needs to be installed.


the web site I posted is the same thing you will be told by a journeyman that is teaching you how to correctly bend conduit, along with other tips and tricks. By the way, most electricians think permanent marker on conduit is taboo. Is it wrong...no, will the owner say something....probable not, will a union journeyman look at it and cringe....probable.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

360max said:


> the web site I posted is the same thing you will be told by a journeyman that is teaching you how to correctly bend conduit, along with other tips and tricks. By the way, most electricians think permanent marker on conduit is taboo. Is it wrong...no, will the owner say something....probable not, will a union journeyman look at it and cringe....probable.


I've never worked with someone who thought it was taboo in 19 years. besides I've done nothing but run pipe everyday for years at a time. A marker ring won't blemish my work. BBQ had it right, if your concerned about a marker on a pipe your priorities are out of whack. How do you feel about math problems in marker over everything in sight. I change all fractions to decimals in my head and do the math on ductwork, studs, inside of panels, ladders, even the pipe I am bending.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

:thumbsup: Sharpie


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

Most of what I do is run pipe, year in year out. Most union electricians that I know and have worked with will not use marker on conduit. As for BBQ priorities statement, I never said it was a priority, and never said it was wrong.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

dronai said:


> :thumbsup: Sharpie


:thumbsup: pencil :thumbsup:


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

I guess you would have no problem using sharpie when putting bends in 500 and 700 wiremold


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

360max said:


> I guess you would have no problem using sharpie when putting bends in 500 and 700 wiremold



Never bent wiremold before.


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## Rockyd (Apr 22, 2007)

People get their priorities skewered, and their panties in a bunch about nothin! I'm union, I use sharpie most of the time. Only if it's an exposed, "viewable" run will I only use pencil.

People who use pencil, I have to ask "How many times do you "lose": your marks, or worse, bend on the wrong mark? Never had that problem with a sharpie.

I'd also look foolish out there trying to use a pencil on ocal or robroy...


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## MattMc (May 30, 2011)

Try the IPhone conduit bending apps. They can help things you might forget. I just use them for the more obscure types of bends and degrees that I don't use alot, I typically just use 30 degrees for everyday stuff it's simple and speed up my pipe work because I dont have to think it out or make any calculations. Whatever works for you though.


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## MattMc (May 30, 2011)

Also the best way to learn it is to get a few tips from your jman. I was basically left alone to run 1000's of feet emt and rigid for industrial lines, and mechanical rooms, everybody learns differently but just doing it is the best way, and you pick up the little tricks along the way.


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## e57 (Jun 5, 2009)

BBQ said:


> I don't worry about that anymore than I worry about the stickers or EMT that is inch marked.
> 
> If the job is leaving unpainted EMT exposed obviously the customer does not care about the looks.


Well, sometimes the exposed pipe is what they want to see look good. At times it can be an architectural detail...


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## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

bill39 said:


> *Offset measurements should be center-to-center measurement NOT overall (bottom of pipe to top of pipe).
> 
> *Get an accurate measurement, to the nearest 1/16th (my first JW would say his measurements like this: 4 and 7/16+" or 9 and 3/16-" for example).
> 
> *Use a sharp pencil or marker (PLEASE don't let this start another rant about permanant markers).


top to top or bottom to bottom here

16th's...really? Once in a while I do but I try not to let anyone know. lol

pencil but it doesn't really matter.


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## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

Bkessler said:


> I've never worked with someone who thought it was taboo in 19 years. besides I've done nothing but run pipe everyday for years at a time. A marker ring won't blemish my work. BBQ had it right, if your concerned about a marker on a pipe your priorities are out of whack. How do you feel about math problems in marker over everything in sight. I change all fractions to decimals in my head and do the math on ductwork, studs, inside of panels, ladders, even the pipe I am bending.


I convert to decimals as well. I always keep a piece of cardboard or something in my back pocket if it's something tricky I can jot it down real quick.


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## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

Rockyd said:


> People get their priorities skewered, and their panties in a bunch about nothin! I'm union, I use sharpie most of the time. Only if it's an exposed, "viewable" run will I only use pencil.
> 
> People who use pencil, I have to ask "How many times do you "lose": your marks, or worse, bend on the wrong mark? Never had that problem with a sharpie.
> 
> I'd also look foolish out there trying to use a pencil on ocal or robroy...


Never lose my marks with pencil. Sharpies can be finicky when used on slightly damp surfaces or real cold. Sometimes a brand new one ain't worth a F on anything real smooth.

I agree it's nothing to get riled up about however I don't like the sharpie marks cause I will have circuit #'s written there most times. A mark may make a # look like a different # when standing on the floor looking up.


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## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

I see dudes all the time just love to bend the crap out of pipe. 3 pt saddles instead of 90's w. kicks. My immediate superviser was making 90's w/ offsets instead of 90's with kicks just the other day. The art of finding a way without a zillion bends is the forgotton art or so it seems where I stand. I can just about pipe a whole job with nothing but 90's, kicks and 30 degree offsets.


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## MattMc (May 30, 2011)

I agree clutch. The more simple it is with the best route and least bends the better. It is always better when it doesn't stand out to the eyes.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Best way to learn is to hump out several master bundles of 3/4 pipe.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Bkessler said:


> Never bent wiremold before.


 It's easy :thumbup:... just use your knee!:laughing: Seriously!


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Bulldog1 said:


> I bought a few bundles off conduit and a bender and practiced doing box off sets, kicks and 45's. This was before 1/2 " emt would bend just by looking at it. I would unbend the bends I made and use the same piece of emt over and over again until it wouldn't straighten out. I don't know anyone who has purchased a book or dvd so I can't comment on if they suck or not. Hands on learning is always better IMO.


There is no way that I can say that you are telling the truth...or not, but I know thousands of electricians and not one has bought bundles of pipe to bend in his spare time just to learn.


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## nutzack (Nov 11, 2011)

RIVETER said:


> There is no way that I can say that you are telling the truth...or not, but I know thousands of electricians and not one has bought bundles of pipe to bend in his spare time just to learn.


In my company all the dude always tell me its how they learned and the only way now and days an apprentice can learn there's just not enough time to spend hours teaching someone to bend.

If I use sharpie I get yelled at. 
I agree with it your selling a product


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

nutzack said:


> In my company all the dude always tell me its how they learned and the only way now and days an apprentice can learn there's just not enough time to spend hours teaching someone to bend.
> 
> If I use sharpie I get yelled at.
> I agree with it your selling a product


The real world is that they bent a lot of the companies pipe. And if there is not enough time to spend teaching... you are with the wrong teacher.


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## MattMc (May 30, 2011)

Of course there should be time. If you tell the apprentice the route you want, then give them a few pointers on how to offset kick and 90 any good apprentice will get it after a couple or few small jobs if they screw up you just make them do it again but explain what they did wrong. Anybody who is good can figure out the rest on their own. It takes a little time to get really good at it and figure everything out. Now if you are talking bending rigid then that's different it takes time to teach a greenhorn that skill.


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## cccp sparky (Nov 5, 2011)

I bending wiremold 700 for renovation of a plaster home. Owner was a money does not matter, make look good. Bending the wiremold tricky. Must sand smooth bender shoe and make many tinys bends to the wiremold saddle. One big bend in a wiremold is a very ugly.


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## NMJockey (Apr 9, 2011)

what so hard about leaving pencil mark its barely visible and only electricians notice that ish!!!!


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## Aegis (Mar 18, 2011)

I use pencil on my emt, I think it just looks better without black marks on it. If it's in a wall who cares, but if it's visible it looks better without marks.


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

We had the Cox book in our apprentice. We used the formulas from the book on shop class nights. And practiced concentric 90's and offsets with emt and ridged in different style benders. I remember it being on one of our tests how to figure the length of straight pipe needed to cut and thread before putting three different kinds of bends in it. I still do that when running ridged. Most of my co-workers just bend the ridged and then cut and thread it with the porta-pony. I prefer a straight piece of pipe in the 300 machine my boss has mounted in a gang box with the automatic oiler and feeder.
 I also bought the Cox tape measure from the back of the book. It works nice having half the tape measure already multiplied by 1.41 for 45's. And has some useful formulas on the back. It would be nice if it was 1" wide and 25'. It would be money well spent by an employer if he bought them for his men if he had a large conduit job. I don't wear it on my hip, I just keep it close by when I am running a lot of conduit.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

Well i know theres some who think bending conduit is just bend it .

Before there were books on how too, we bent conduit with our own formulas you might say .

The key is the distance from center line of bend to each or any size conduit bend per angle or degree of that shoe to that collar of that shoe . The length used from that point to exact center of conduit being bent at that point . Each type of bender is close per conduit size but not the same it depends on the radi of that shoe or who makes the bender.

You can take time on any bender and bend your degrees starting with a 5 degree 20 - 30- 45- 60 -90 ect ect of each size conduit from that measured distance per degree each change in distance from center line of bent conduit and record the length from your mark when placed in collar .
If you bend big pipe you know you put your mark on the collar from that mark to center line of conduit bent .


You now have the distance to add or subtract when bending any angle on that size conduit only per degree and no formulas needed.

This gives you a way to change direction in racks to make all conduits look like all the bends line up on centers cut and thread it before bending no math needed just your tape or a wooden ruler which we use .
Take that info and you can design changes in racks of multiple runs any size .
its easy you just need to waste a few master bundles of 2 inch thur 4 inch .

Just kidding this can be done over time with scrap conduit or years of bending conduit .

If you want good looking conduit racks and a easy method try it .

This is any bender any style and any size conduit or type of conduit ever made .

I just love when we get a new electrician thats been in the trade 20 years and he tells me well i really never used that type of bender before thats a different brand then we had .:no:







Sorry iam getting old !


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## rdr (Oct 25, 2009)

cccp sparky said:


> I bending wiremold 700 for renovation of a plaster home. Owner was a money does not matter, make look good. Bending the wiremold tricky. Must sand smooth bender shoe and make many tinys bends to the wiremold saddle. One big bend in a wiremold is a very ugly.


Sanding a bender shoe? Seriously?

Wrap the finished part of the wiremold in painter's tape. That works too. :thumbsup:


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

piperunner said:


> Well i know theres some who think bending conduit is just bend it .
> 
> Before there were books on how too, we bent conduit with our own formulas you might say .
> 
> ...












not a whole lot different


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

sparky970 said:


> not a whole lot different


You must be bending segs this week .

But we still have this old timer in the bone yard when its needed only issue i have is i hate the 20 foot long pipe and the time it takes to bend one you can not use 10 foot pipe in it on anything over a 30 degree it slips out this one is only for 4 "5" or 6" inch .


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

piperunner said:


> You must be bending segs this week .


 I bet he's not. I bet you're not either. Do you have any pictures of your own segs, "piperunner"? Thanks for the cool new word. Now people will think I know what I'm talking about when I drop segs.


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Some of my typical installations. This was at one of our Tank Batterry upgrades.


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

CFL said:


> I bet he's not. I bet you're not either. Do you have any pictures of your own segs, "piperunner"? Thanks for the cool new word. Now people will think I know what I'm talking about when I drop segs.


not necessarily.

do you actually know how to do segment bending? without making
a bone pile out behind the job trailer?

i need a piece of 3 1/2" GRC bent with a 44" radius, to the center of
the conduit. it needs to be 58" tall, measured from the back of
the conduit. i won't hold your feet to the fire with making you
come up with developed length, and cut and thread before bending.

just put it on the end of a stick.

how many segments will you use, and how far apart will they be,
and how many degrees will each one be?

this way, you can use either a one shot, or a segment bender,
depending on what's available.

now, the second pipe will have 1 5/8" between it and the first pipe,
will be 2" GRC, and will be on the outside of the 3" pipe. the conduit
ends should line up when you are done, and they are in place.

how many segments will you use, and how far apart will they be,
and how many degrees will each one be?

put your money where your mouth is.


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

robroy952 said:


> Some of my typical installations. This was at one of our Tank Batterry upgrades.


I don't see any pics?


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> I don't see any pics?


They are there. I see them on your reply as well....

Is this better?


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Nice looking work rob, You from out of state?


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> Nice looking work rob, You from out of state?


I'm in southern California.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

robroy952 said:


> I'm in southern California.


I met originally. Because it's really nice looking work.


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

FulThrotl said:


> not necessarily.
> 
> do you actually know how to do segment bending? without making
> a bone pile out behind the job trailer?
> ...


Come on, don't be stupid. I was making fun of piperunner. I know what a segment bend is. But all the real pipe runners call them segs.


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Bkessler said:


> I met originally. Because it's really nice looking work.


Thank you. I was born and raised in Camarillo, Ca.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

robroy952 said:


> Some of my typical installations. This was at one of our Tank Batterry upgrades.


Well nice looking work great to see some conduit work .


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

CFL said:


> I bet he's not. I bet you're not either. Do you have any pictures of your own segs, "piperunner"? Thanks for the cool new word. Now people will think I know what I'm talking about when I drop segs.



Well so you say we dont bend long radi conduit Hummmm you might go back a few years or months into my conduit photos . How much money do ya have ?


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## MattMc (May 30, 2011)

Nice work its good to see some nice pipe work pics.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

piperunner said:


> Well so you say we dont bend long radi conduit Hummmm you might go back a few years or months into my conduit photos . How much money do ya have ?



Man get with the times MC cable jobs look way better than any conduit jobs. :whistling2::jester:


Nice work


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

CFL said:


> Come on, don't be stupid. I was making fun of piperunner. I know what a segment bend is. But all the real pipe runners call them segs.


yeah, i sorta got that. i freely accept that i may be stupid.
so, i'm asking you, as you seem to be the self appointed segment
authority here, to prove your expertise.

i asked for some measurements. can you do it, or not?

my question was, can you give me some measurements that will work?
i'm not impressed by what you say you know, i'm impressed by
what you can actually do.

so... i'm waiting on those numbers....

clue:

the 3" to the first bend is 1' 2 5/16".....
the segments are 4 5/8" long.
there is a 6 degree bend between them......

there ya go... i met you half way... only
one to do now....


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

My 2 cents.... Pipe work looks good. 

Splice boxes not supported.

No disconnects for the motors. Let me guess MCC with in sight of.

Thank for posting up some nice pictures:thumbsup:


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Island Electric said:


> My 2 cents.... Pipe work looks good.
> 
> Splice boxes not supported.
> 
> ...


How you going to mount an explosion proof box that has no mounting holes? You can't drill your own.


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

Island Electric said:


> My 2 cents.... Pipe work looks good.
> 
> Splice boxes not supported.
> 
> ...


yeah, it does.
the disconnecting means i suspect is under the plastic bags...

i've seen a lot of explosion proof boxes unsupported, similar
to a malleable condulet being unsupported. some of them
don't have ears or bosses for support.

and it might be something that will be added later......


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

......


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

FulThrotl said:


> yeah, i sorta got that. i freely accept that i may be stupid.
> so, i'm asking you, as you seem to be the self appointed segment
> authority here, to prove your expertise.
> 
> ...



I've always stretched a piece of surgical tubing between the start and stop mark. Then take the first and last segs and split the distance between marks and use 2 2.5 deg bends.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

FulThrotl said:


> not necessarily.
> 
> do you actually know how to do segment bending? without making
> a bone pile out behind the job trailer?
> ...



Well i dont think he will answer but the developed length would be longer than your 58 tall pipe which means he may have to cut it ahead of time . but what do i know let see if he can fined his marks .


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

Why don't we all just assume the other guy knows what he's doing. Who cares who knows how to do what? What are you trying to prove? WOW, you can do math....congrats. I make one post in this thread and get all these emails of new posts of useless banter. Can't we just be professional? Some spend more time slinging pipe than others...so be it.


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

sparky970 said:


> I've always stretched a piece of surgical tubing between the start and stop mark. Then take the first and last segs and split the distance between marks and use 2 2.5 deg bends.


yeah, i do something similar... i take 10' of dressmakers elastic,
and on one edge, make 15 marks exactly 1" apart... flip it over,
on the other side, make 15 marks exactly 2" apart.... on the
other end of the elastic, i do the same thing at 3" and 4" apart....

take the developed length, mark it on the pipe, and stretch
the elastic between them, and mark the pipe segments......
or i should use the word segs, maybe.

i even use a sharpie..... mostly to piss off half the people on
this here forum.... ;-)

we probably learned from the same guy.......

actually doing the math usually isn't warranted.. we aren't
building the space shuttle here....


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> Why don't we all just assume the other guy knows what he's doing. Who cares who knows how to do what? What are you trying to prove? WOW, you can do math....congrats. I make one post in this thread and get all these emails of new posts of useless banter. Can't we just be professional? Some spend more time slinging pipe than others...so be it.


Well thanks Charlie but ever time someone puts up conduit they go nuts i just cant understand it .

I guess we need to just look at the guys work and respect the post its nice to see other folks work i enjoy it but there always someone who screws that up . personally i think he does great work and it looks good iam impressed with his photos . NICE JOB !!!!:thumbup:

Funny ya never see there work but there always bitchen


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

I don't do much pipe work, but I'll post up some pics of mine. I'm not scared! LOL


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## user8640521 (Jan 17, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> Why don't we all just assume the other guy knows what he's doing. Who cares who knows how to do what? What are you trying to prove? WOW, you can do math....congrats. I make one post in this thread and get all these emails of new posts of useless banter. Can't we just be professional? Some spend more time slinging pipe than others...so be it.


i fully understand your frustration. there currently is a thread
running here about the merits of marking your conduit for bending
with a sharpie or a pencil.

it has 107 replies so far... most of them just abusing other posters.

and as for assuming people here know what they are doing, i suspect
that YMMV on that one. i hadn't been on here in a long time, and
logged in, to see a lot of familiar names that i'd seen on mike holt's 
forum, spanning back several years.... so i started reading a bit....

then i started using the ignore feature, as there are a number of folks
on here who just spew swill. after putting a half dozen people on ignore,
it became manageable and less irritating.

so, when i was reading something from someone, and the response was
ridicule, to someone who is probably a pretty capable industrial mechanic,
and didn't merit ridicule, i simply decided to see if he knew what he was
talking about.

and as far as "whooo whee... being able to do the math"... you'd be
astounded at the number of people who couldn't bend six pieces of
conduit concentrically to save their life. unless you have spent some
time in refineries or heavy industrial, you don't get that skill set. and
it is not used much any more, unless you are in a tight place and need
something to fit, and don't have the room.

as for professionalism, much of what i see posted here seems written
by the likes of a 14 year old, with a mouth.

there isn't much content here that i can't find elsewhere, without having
to wade thru 1,500 prepubescent posts, so i'll limit my remarks, and the
time spent reading here.

it's ok, i know where the door is, and i won't let it hit me in the ass on my
way out of it.


randy


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

FulThrotl said:


> yeah, i do something similar... i take 10' of dressmakers elastic,
> and on one edge, make 15 marks exactly 1" apart... flip it over,
> on the other side, make 15 marks exactly 2" apart.... on the
> other end of the elastic, i do the same thing at 3" and 4" apart....
> ...


I've always used 18 shots and write the radius on the conduit, in sharpie


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Island Electric said:


> My 2 cents.... Pipe work looks good.
> 
> Splice boxes not supported.
> 
> ...


There are disconnects. The bags are covering Hand/Off/Auto switches, which goes back to the starter panels. Those boxes are supported. How is having two pieces of 3/4" GRC supported off of 1-5/8 deep strut less than 18" away from the box, not supported??? Those aren't splice boxes, I pulled the other HOA control wires straight through. Even on my last HOA switch I ran a dead leg to the strut. I am actually going to be at that Tank Battery tomorrow. I have to install two new starter panels for the vapor recovery compressors. I will take some better pics of the finished product.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> I don't do much pipe work, but I'll post up some pics of mine. I'm not scared! LOL



Well Charlie will enjoy it would like to see other areas of conduit work thanks for the response . Take care :thumbsup:


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

robroy952 said:


> There are disconnects. The bags are covering Hand/Off/Auto switches, which goes back to the starter panels. Those boxes are supported. How is having two pieces of 3/4" GRC supported off of 1-5/8 deep strut less than 18" away from the box, not supported??? Those aren't splice boxes, I pulled the other HOA control wires straight through. Even on my last HOA switch I ran a dead leg to the strut. I am actually going to be at that Tank Battery tomorrow. I have to install two new starter panels for the vapor recovery compressors. I will take some better pics of the finished product.



Well your photos were fine looked ok to me . You dont have to explain your work they need to read the code book rigid pipe supports the FS box . 

Nice job good work it looked clean and neat better than ive seen on this forum in sometime .

I guess they looked at the bag and could not understand it was covering the disco . I really like the racks in the background clean looking !


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Thanks. I really appreciate feedback, whether good or bad. I will take some better pics tomorrow of the racks. They were fun. I even put in all the stanchions. (Well, I had some help with the concrete, and digging, I'm not gonna lie...)
This upgrade is almost finished, and there is plenty of work to be done still. They are in the process of drilling seven new wells at this location. Lot$ of work for me!!!!


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

*


robroy952 said:



There are disconnects. The bags are covering Hand/Off/Auto switches, which goes back to the starter panels. Those boxes are supported. How is having two pieces of 3/4" GRC supported off of 1-5/8 deep strut less than 18" away from the box, not supported??? Those aren't splice boxes, I pulled the other HOA control wires straight through. Even on my last HOA switch I ran a dead leg to the strut. I am actually going to be at that Tank Battery tomorrow. I have to install two new starter panels for the vapor recovery compressors. I will take some better pics of the finished product.

Click to expand...

*Awesome work:thumbsup: Not here to put you down at all. Yes it is solid! I couldn't agree more. 

The reality is the HOA's or the junction boxes are not supported. You say it is supported ok... but if it was a dropped ceiling with 2 conduits supported by a piece of strut would that mean the 1900 box 18" away would not need to be supported? It's really not any different. 

It more or less came down to... did you want to waste more strut with 2 legs going vertical with 3 cross pieces for supporting pipe, Junction box and HOA. 

Not a big deal but here in Chi-town we get crazy like that. I don't want to sound like I'm a know it all but just saying. Before I became a resi-premadona I was on high profile projects like yours. They over kill things out here. it's normal for us here. Go Bears! 

I should not of said anything because the work looks great.:thumbsup: Sorry man.


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

*


piperunner said:



You dont have to explain your work they need to read the code book

Click to expand...

*:icon_redface:


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Island Electric said:


> Awesome work:thumbsup: Not here to put you down at all. Yes it is solid! I couldn't agree more.
> 
> The reality is the HOA's or the junction boxes are not supported. You say it is supported ok... but if it was a dropped ceiling with 2 conduits supported by a piece of strut would that mean the 1900 box 18" away would not need to be supported? It's really not any different.
> 
> ...


No worries, as everybody does things a little different. There was so much work going on with this project. I have been working 60 hour plus weeks for the last few months. Most of that overtime was from this project. In the event that something is not properly supported, I have the welder weld me up some chit to make it work. It's very nice having a welder at your beckoning to help you out:thumbup: a couple 3/8" wedge anchors and some back plate perfectly centered behind the HOA box....
I didn't have any supports made for this setup though, but I have in the past.


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

Here's a couple of pics. Don't bash me too hard. We don't do pipe very often. I have some other pics of another job but I'll have to dig them up tomorrow.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

What are those little nipples on the T's? Reminds me of a drip tee on a gas line.

-John


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

Big John said:


> What are those little nipples on the T's? Reminds me of a drip tee on a gas line.
> 
> -John


Drains. Common practice here to put a drain on any elevation change. We all know water gets in, we let it out (Or try to) so it doesn't freeze.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

CheapCharlie said:


> Here's a couple of pics. Don't bash me too hard. We don't do pipe very often. I have some other pics of another job but I'll have to dig them up tomorrow.



Looks like you matched what was there.


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

CheapCharlie said:


> Drains....


 I wondered but it looks like they have pipe caps on the end. Or is that just my lying eyes?

-John


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

They have holes drilled in them.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> They have holes drilled in them.


:thumbsup:

Somebody is gonna call you a hack because you didn't buy some overpriced drain fitting though. :laughing:


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

Drain Fitting? Enlighten me. never heard of them. Website?


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Something like that, all the industrial fitting manufactures make some. They have their place in hazloc's but if you're just in a regular location just drill a tiny hole somewhere.


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> Here's a couple of pics. Don't bash me too hard. We don't do pipe very often. I have some other pics of another job but I'll have to dig them up tomorrow.


Well Charlie looks like snow on the ground looks like a sub station were.


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

Northern Manitoba. About a foot fell last week. Here to stay till April. Much more to come!


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## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> Northern Manitoba. About a foot fell last week. Here to stay till April. Much more to come!



Well your way up there Charlie its a little cool up there ya.

I have two Black Russian Terriers from Canada we get them from a breeder up around Montreal i need to keep my AC down to 70 for them .


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## gregorysridley (Nov 7, 2011)

This resources has really has a good outcome in terms of the terms on mature electricity. It makes a lot of sense that it is surely a goal keeper indeed.

*SPAM*


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## CFL (Jan 28, 2009)

Island Electric said:


> The reality is the HOA's or the junction boxes are not supported. You say it is supported ok... but if it was a dropped ceiling with 2 conduits supported by a piece of strut would that mean the 1900 box 18" away would not need to be supported? It's really not any different.


A 1900 box does not have threaded hubs.


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## CheapCharlie (Feb 4, 2011)

Some more


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Here it is after.


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## RobRoy (Aug 6, 2009)

Some more.


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## e57 (Jun 5, 2009)

CheapCharlie said:


> Some more


Although those are just pictures, the proximity of the porciline makes me nervous though my iPad. But then I wonder if people with a fear of heights experience the same though pictures of heights?? Because that last picture gives me the fear of bursting into a ball of white light.....


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