# Spa Disconnect Question



## 277v (Feb 22, 2014)

Residential Spa/Hot Tub outside disconnect box. This box has a pull out disconnect, a contactor(like a A/C contactor) with 4 wires going to a gfci w/ no ground. I was wondering do you still wire the gfi line and load or just put the 4 wires coming from the contactor all on the line side. It had been previously wired all on the line side but I can't think of any reason to wire it that way. Thanks in advance.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

Unsure of your configuration 277

but i am sure the only protection a gfci offers is on the load side

~CS~


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## 277v (Feb 22, 2014)

*Reply*

240v comes into pull out disconnect-out of disconnect to a contactor(240v)-then from the contactor 240v to the spa-out of the top of the contactor 4 #12 wires go to the gfi. i just tied it straight through by-passing the gfi but my brother in law wanted the gfi he took off back on. He says that all 4 #12 wires were on the line side but he isn't 100% sure. So when I put the gfi on I wired it the way I believe it should be. Line/Load. Just trying to see if there is any reason to have everything on the line side, I can't think of anything. Just looking for reassurance.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

First off, your 4-12's sound small, but should be H-H-N-G

2ndly, i'm unsure of what type gfcis you have , if this is a faceless gfci that drops out said contactor, or what, is there any info inside the cover?

in any case, to comply with 680, as well as listings, a gfci for an outdoor 'spa' is required

if in fact your BIL took it out because it was tripping, it was most likely doing it's job

~CS~


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## 277v (Feb 22, 2014)

*Faceless*

It is the faceless gfi


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## 277v (Feb 22, 2014)

Also he has had this unit and this set-up for 12 years. The heater went out and tripped the gfci. He thought the gfi went bad and started tearing into it then called me after the new heater was installed. I haven't added or set this disconnect up. He shouldn't have messed with it and wouldn't need to be bothering you.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

277v said:


> Also he has had this unit and this set-up for 12 years. The heater went out and tripped the gfci. He thought the gfi went bad and started tearing into it then called me after the new heater was installed. I haven't added or set this disconnect up. He shouldn't have messed with it and wouldn't need to be bothering you.


Ok, is this similar to what you have 277?>









might look something like this w/cover on?










If so, the H-H-N goes _through_ the sensor from source >>> contactor
Any imbalance drops the contactor out, the coil of which should be made off the GFCI load side to do so

~CS~


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## 277v (Feb 22, 2014)

*Nailed it*

I work strictly on motor controls and haven't messed with residential in 20+ years however it only made sense that their had to be a load. The gfi he picked up from Wiseway is a standard GFCI with a face. The one he took out he threw away. So I never got to see what it looked like but can imagine just like the photo. I installed the one he picked up because Wiseway said they had never seen one like the old one before. Thanks for all your help. I guess I will go to A&S Electric Parts and see if they have the correct one. But a gfi is gfi right. Once again I really appreciate your time and direction.


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## socalelect (Nov 14, 2011)

chicken steve said:


> Ok, is this similar to what you have 277?>
> 
> might look something like this w/cover on?
> 
> ...


How does that thing work chicken man


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

socalelect said:


> How does that thing work chicken man


I've used them and I liked it. You can get it with an alarm too which is nice


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

socalelect said:


> How does that thing work chicken man


Same as any gfci, just has a bigger CT on the outside vs the inside of it>










link











~CS~


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

BTW~ I altered one of these to protect a straight 3ph pool motor, which by 680 isn't required to be gfci protected. The inspector let the 110.3B go on it.


~CS~


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## 277v (Feb 22, 2014)

I was reading 110.22 and didn't think I could use a standard GFI in place of the one that was previously there. But, if the CT is the only difference then I reckon it is ok. My fault for misinterpreting 110.22.Thanks again...............


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## 277v (Feb 22, 2014)

*110.22*

I guess 110.22 is strictly in a series. Well I reckon just an old GFI will work just fine then. Unless the GFI must have the sensor on the back, which from the way the #10 wires were ran looked like they had been using it for space in the panel vs. protection. Thanks again.


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

Been a while, but the last I time I used one of those Leviton doughnut GFCI's, they were only listed in combination with certain contactors.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

What is the advantage of that over a regular spa panel with a 2p50/60 gfci breaker?


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

Not a whole lot nrp3, maybe just the fact that it's all inclusive w/pullout disco

Otherwise, nothing sensitive lasts, as you well know, out in NE weather...

~CS~


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

So true.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

Further_ fat for the fire _would be that a disco within sight isn't required for a resi spa per 680.41, making that 240Vgfci50/60 all the more attractive nrp3

But all those dump & run hot tub dealers who sell the_ 'entire package' _have the HO's convinced otherwise ...

~CS~


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I like having the GFI at the disconnect instead of at the panel, especially for long runs. Pool guys, home of the $400 electrical install.


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