# Stripped panel cover screws



## cad99 (Feb 19, 2012)

I usually tap them if there is more then one missing or striped. But if I do one I do them all so they match. 


Living the dream one nightmare at a time[emoji769]


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

I usually find something in my _'ditty box_' that'll fit 99.....~CS~


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

I normally would tap it out to a larger size, but I have seen these used.


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## Electrozappo (Apr 8, 2014)

Put bigger self tappers I think #10 or tap to 1/4-20 or the clip nuts


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> I normally would tap it out to a larger size, but I have seen these used.


I hate those clips! Many of times pulling off a dead front I've cringed hearing them fall inside the panel. 

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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

Electrozappo said:


> Put bigger self tappers


I just go up one size with a sheet metal screw.


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## Electrozappo (Apr 8, 2014)

John Valdes said:


> I just go up one size with a sheet metal screw.




Yeah same idea, I never full blast the self tappers I try to shove the drill head in there as much as I can to prevent the burs from flying around the inside


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

John Valdes said:


> I just go up one size with a sheet metal screw.


Then you need to bond the cover to the cabinet as sheet metal screws are not permitted for grounding and bonding


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

I useally use selftapping sheet metal screws but try to use self tapping * machine * screws due it have fine thread pitch ..


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

John Valdes said:


> I just go up one size with a sheet metal screw.


Oh it's you! If I ever find you..'... grrrr [emoji1] 

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## Nom Deplume (Jul 21, 2013)

If you wanted to do a nice job, invest in a rivet nut tool and install some rivet nuts that should last.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-nuts/=127jxwx


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## jclarmo (Oct 18, 2012)

Isn't this what electrical tape is for?


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Jam a couple of #12 hex head screws into the holes with your drill. Problem solved.


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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

although ive seen it a hundred times, i was told that sheet metal screws are not legal. has to be a screw without a point. makes sense the way some panels are so jam full of wires! ive learned through the years that if you put the screw in right, instead of FORCING it, they dont normaly strip:whistling2:


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I always love it when I see wood screws or sheet rock screws. It's a good opportunity for a sale in one way or another. I don't but I know some guys who keep tons of spare screws for each type/brand of panel on hand. I always assumed they just tap/drilled a higher size and used a different screw that was still approved. Clip nuts seems like a good addition to the screw box though.


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## Anathera (Feb 16, 2016)

Our inspector blew our panel apart by over tightening a Siemens cover screw into a wire with a drill, I can only imagine how much easier it'd be with a pointed screw

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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> Then you need to bond the cover to the cabinet as sheet metal screws are not permitted for grounding and bonding


I'm thinking it's just a method of attachment since the panel cover is painted. But I don't like the idea of having a pointy screw around live wires.


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

papaotis said:


> although ive seen it a hundred times, i was told that sheet metal screws are not legal. has to be a screw without a point. makes sense the way some panels are so jam full of wires! *ive learned through the years that if you put the screw in right, instead of FORCING it, they dont normaly strip*:whistling2:


Yep, there's no good reason these screws should become stripped in 
the first place. Clear sign of electricians who aren't even close to 
being craftsmen. Unless your on a ship, or other place where there's
vibration, there's no reason to tighten these screws. When it stops 
turning easily it's tight enough. 
P&L


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Yep, there's no good reason these screws should become stripped in
> the first place. Clear sign of electricians who aren't even close to
> being craftsmen. Unless your on a ship, or other place where there's
> vibration, there's no reason to tighten these screws. When it stops
> ...


******** and weekend warriors.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> Then you need to bond the cover to the cabinet as sheet metal screws are not permitted for grounding and bonding


Never gave it a second thought.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> I normally would tap it out to a larger size, but I have seen these used.


That's what I use. 1/4-20 w/ truss head screws.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

99cents said:


> I'm thinking it's just a method of attachment since the panel cover is painted. But I don't like the idea of having a pointy screw around live wires.


I would expect that the bonding of the cover is part of the product standard and listing process. The code clearly requires the cover to be bonded.


> 250.4(A)(3) Bonding of Electrical Equipment. Normally non–current-carrying conductive materials enclosing electrical conductors or equipment, or forming part of such equipment, shall be connected together and to the electrical supply source in a manner that establishes an effective ground-fault current path.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

John Valdes said:


> Never gave it a second thought.


To be fair, the clips i posted would also require some type of boding connection.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> To be fair, the clips i posted would also require some type of boding connection.


They make them


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

splatz said:


> They make them


i see that often on industrial panels


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## philipdybel (Feb 29, 2016)

"If they stripped one screw, they will eventually strip them all" (you can quote me on that)

Recommend always carry a box of 1/4-20 x 1/4" RHMS ($3 per 25 at Home Depot or whatever), 1/4-20 tap, drill bit set, and cordless drill.

Advantages:
1) They will probably not strip out a 1/4-20 screw. (unless they are a total *** -- in which case there's always 1/2-13...)
2) When they lose the screw (which they will), they can get an replacement from Ace Hardware.
3) Even without a UL label / listing on this "equipment modification", it is obvious to any reasonable person that it's "functionally identical" to the original. (in case an Inspector asks)


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

Are any of you actually stripping out these screws or have seen it happen? It doesn't seem to me it should happen that often. I've always assumed it's because the original screw gets lost and someone jams whatever horrible sheet metal screw they find laying on the ground in the hole.

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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I've only run into them. Never done it or seen it done.


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## danickstr (Mar 21, 2010)

I think most panel screws are 10/32. Next up is 12/24 and fairly common. I sometimes have luck retapping the holes with a 10/32 tap since they just used whatever crap they had and pushed the metal around - not necessarily removed it. But I carry both taps and give it a go. The 1/4 20 idea is good also since it's available


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## cdslotz (Jun 10, 2008)

John Valdes said:


> I just go up one size with a sheet metal screw.


until you hit a wire...


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## Bad Electrician (May 20, 2014)

We carry self tapping screws in a variety of sizes.

https://www.grainger.com/category/thread-forming-and-cutting-screws/screws/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8nc


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