# Bath Exhaust Fan in Dropped Ceiling



## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Trimming out a house and the customer wants a bath fan/can combo exhaust installed in the dropped ceiling in the basement bath. The mounts for the fan are made to install between the joists. What is the best way to install this on the ceiling tile and keep the weight off the tile and also keep it from moving when running?
Not that it matters much but this is a recessed can with a fan, not a standard bath fan.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

In similar situations I have cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to lay on top of the tile. That will displace the weight of the fan to the grid instead of it pushing down in the middle of the tile. The weight of the plywood will also help keep the fan from moving. You can drive some small screws thru the vertical part of the grid into the edge of the plywood if you want it more rigid.


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Outhouse.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

HackWork said:


> In similar situations I have cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to lay on top of the tile. That will displace the weight of the fan to the grid instead of it pushing down in the middle of the tile. The weight of the plywood will also help keep the fan from moving. You can drive some small screws thru the vertical part of the grid into the edge of the plywood if you want it more rigid.


This is so much easier than dicking around with various stamped sheet metal contraptions.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

Tie wire 1/2" EMT to the grid. Use peanut crews and two hole straps.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

I think he's using the Halo 6" recess can light / exhaust fan
combo (or some similar product).
It should have expandable brackets like a recess can has 
(but a tad thicker)...spread em out and use self tapping 
screws to secure the ends of the brackets to the steel grid.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

T-bar is probably 1 or maybe 2 max off the joists. Put the fan between the joists as usual butt up against one (toss the brackets). Drop the can level to the finished ceiling and Drive a couple of screws thru the can and presto the can is firm against the joist.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

lighterup said:


> I think he's using the Halo 6" recess can light / exhaust fan
> combo (or some similar product).
> It should have expandable brackets like a recess can has
> (but a tad thicker)...spread em out and use self tapping
> screws to secure the ends of the brackets to the steel grid.



I think (can't remember for sure) that the brackets are too high up on the fan body to line up with the T-bar
If you run screws through the T-bar they will stick out on the other side and won't let the tile fit in.






daveEM said:


> T-bar is probably 1 or maybe 2 max off the joists. Put the fan between the joists as usual butt up against one (toss the brackets). Drop the can level to the finished ceiling and Drive a couple of screws thru the can and presto the can is firm against the joist.



The joists are way too high above the grid for that to work.


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## DashDingo (Feb 11, 2018)

Get creative, your an electrician. Maybe what you end up doing will end up on the “ Gems of the trade” thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

*Erico 512HD*

I've done the fabri-cobbling, now I usually just pick up a couple of these:


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

splatz said:


> This is so much easier than dicking around with various stamped sheet metal contraptions.



Just installed 2 fan/light units in a drop ceiling about 2 weeks ago using the same method that Hack mentioned but added a couple of extra guy wires from the T-Bar up to the joists to be safe. I'm like @splatz, trying to use the various metal t-bar brackets is a pain in the Butt.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

jelhill said:


> Just installed 2 fan/light units in a drop ceiling about 2 weeks ago using the same method that Hack mentioned but added a couple of extra guy wires from the T-Bar up to the joists to be safe. I'm like @splatz, trying to use the various metal t-bar brackets is a pain in the Butt.


I've always used the plywood and additional support wire method with good results.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I normally cut a couple 2x4's to fit in between the grid and screw to them. Kinda like hax's method without the extra labor of cutting a big hole. If I am worried I will secure therm with baling wire.


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## jw0445 (Oct 9, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> I normally cut a couple 2x4's to fit in between the grid and screw to them. Kinda like hax's method without the extra labor of cutting a big hole. If I am worried I will secure therm with baling wire.




And cut a kerf on both ends so the 2x4's sit over the grid


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

You’re going to use a hole saw to cut the hole in the ceiling tile, so drill the hole in the plywood at the same time.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

Jack chain to supports work. 

Plywood/drywall works better.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> I normally cut a couple 2x4's to fit in between the grid and screw to them. Kinda like hax's method without the extra labor of cutting a big hole. If I am worried I will secure therm with baling wire.


If it's being inspected you can't support it off the grid, especially in places with seismic code concerns.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

2 scraps of lumber 23.75" long. Cut hole in tile. Screw Fan to lumber and lumber to grid. Tie wire or jack chain the exhaust fan to the physical ceiling.


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## wmbettsjr (Aug 24, 2018)

Just did a few in some condo bathrooms. The Panasonic's I usually use have a bracket that extends out to 24 inches. Screw the fan housing to that through the ceiling tile and then tie off to the deck like a lay in fixture. 

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