# DeWalt Charger says powerline problem



## TOOL_5150

I hate to ask the obvious, but have you checked the powerline to make sure its wired correctly?

~Matt


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## tcdavis66

no, but good thought. it could be a slightly different voltage here at my apartment.


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## BryanMD

tcdavis66 said:


> I just bought brand spankin new batteries.
> The charger is older
> checked out other day at the jobsite.


the jobsite voltage is more likely to be suspect,
especially if it is based on a generator.


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## walkerj

I have had problems with my Dewalt on busy jobsites with lots of power tools running constantly.

I assume that they won't operate on a low voltage situation like VD


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## 480sparky

To start with, what is the problem? Batteries not charging at all? Or not holding a charge?


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## walkerj

480sparky said:


> To start with, what is the problem? Batteries not charging at all? Or not holding a charge?


 
Dewalt chargers have a flashy light combination that indicates "powerline problem" and the charger simply doesn't charge


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## tcdavis66

right Walker, . I'm hoping the batteries are fully charged (since there new) and thats why I get the problem powerline code on the charger. I don't know, power at the jobsite and here should be fine, you would think. You don't think dewalt has changed the batteries in some way? like I said this charger is one of the first models...maybe 15 years old. Guess I could run the battery down and try again. whoa, batteries not fully charged out of box,. It's not charging! powerline poroblem! what the hey?


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## jbfan

I had a charger that had a loose solder joint on the big cap inside.
Resoldered the joint and the charger still works after 5 years.


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## tcdavis66

The allen bolts have a nipple, I can't open the darn thing. but i think its was working not to long ago. I'm gonna try and find another power source I guess


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## crazymurph

tcdavis66 said:


> The allen bolts have a nipple, I can't open the darn thing. but i think its was working not to long ago. I'm gonna try and find another power source I guess


 
Are you saying that the bolts are tamper proof? You can get the tool that will work.


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## BryanMD

jbfan said:


> I had a charger that had a loose solder joint on the big cap inside.
> Resoldered the joint and the charger still works after 5 years.


I've never been inside a charger and as many replacements as are around for prices between real cheap and zero... can't see any point to it.

Inside the radio though are two different very low amp agc fuses.
It wasn't fun learning how to get inside that case the first time.


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## muck

Check the polarity of the receptacle


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## Bob Badger

muck said:


> Check the polarity of the receptacle


The charger will not care about the polarity of an AC receptacle.


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## muck

Bob Badger said:


> The charger will not care about the polarity of an AC receptacle.


Bob, I would think the same thing about a heater - but I just had one that wouldn't stay running because of reversed polarity. Works fine now - must have something to do with the electronics.


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## jbfan

BryanMD said:


> I've never been inside a charger and as many replacements as are around for prices between real cheap and zero... can't see any point to it.
> 
> Inside the radio though are two different very low amp agc fuses.
> It wasn't fun learning how to get inside that case the first time.


 I'm still trying!
Tell me how you did it!:thumbsup:


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## BryanMD

jbfan said:


> I'm still trying!
> Tell me how you did it!


after you get the (8?) black phillips drive screws out of those deep wells on the back... you need something like a drift pin to poke back down in one or two of those wells. (I was able to use the tail end of a file)

put a flashlight on it and you should see a small shoulder.... anyway, just knock on the other end of the pin with your kleins and that should separate the case.

when I had mine open I used that as an opportunity to replace the frayed cord too: added a 1900 box to the side for 2 recept (1 gfi) and used 12g SO.

No one minds me plugging in because while I take up a spot I provide 4 more for others to plug in. :thumbsup:


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## jbfan

Thanks Bryan.


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## bduerler

BryanMD said:


> after you get the (8?) black phillips drive screws out of those deep wells on the back... you need something like a drift pin to poke back down in one or two of those wells. (I was able to use the tail end of a file)
> 
> put a flashlight on it and you should see a small shoulder.... anyway, just knock on the other end of the pin with your kleins and that should separate the case.
> 
> when I had mine open I used that as an opportunity to replace the frayed cord too: added a 1900 box to the side for 2 recept (1 gfi) and used 12g SO.
> 
> No one minds me plugging in because while I take up a spot I provide 4 more for others to plug in. :thumbsup:


i would like to see a pic of that setup sounds pretty handy


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## dsparky

*Dewalt charger*



jbfan said:


> I had a charger that had a loose solder joint on the big cap inside.
> Resoldered the joint and the charger still works after 5 years.


I realize this is an old thread, but I am compelled to write that this is exactly what was wrong with my charger! I was more than surprised to wiggle the cap and notice the loose solder joint. Resoldered it and it works perfectly.

BTW, I took a small drill bit - 1/16" or so, and with the drill it easily broke the little anti tamper pin on the torx screws so that a regular torx would remove them with just a bit of finagling.


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## thoenew

On the subject of TR bits, I went on ebay and bought one of the sets. 100 some bits for cheap. Definitely not the highest quality, but good enough for how often their used.

This isn't the one I got, but pretty much the same.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Piece-H...ultDomain_0&hash=item4145e1e062#ht_2666wt_905


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## CanadianBrad

The problem, I'm afraid, is that you've purchased DeWALT.

I don't mean to start a "who makes the best" argument here, but in the past 12 years I've spent with power tools, especially the last year on the jobsite, I've noticed severe degradation of the DeWALT brand. My employer, who's been an electrician for 30 years and self-employed for 14, has noticed a similar trend. Several of our old DeWALT tools have been replaced with Makita, which offer better longevity, more power, and lighter weight, at the expense of somewhat reduced availability(DeWALT is still the most marketed "professional" brand). And, if that Milwaukee M18 band saw we just picked up is any indicator of Milwaukee quality, they've got something special going on too.

My boss was actually toying with the idea of kitting out the new work van with Milwaukee stuff. Our senior j-man still has a full collection of older DeWALT stuff, and me and my j-man share a collection of older DeWALT/new Makita stuff, while he has nearly all new Makita tools. With a fourth vehicle getting on the road, he's considering loading it up with Milwaukee and evaluating the difference, so that when it comes time to replace the DeWALT stuff(which will be inside a year, judging by performance), he can make his decision based on hands-on experience.

In response to your question, I'm with Bryan. A battery charger is widely available and fairly inexpensive. In my opinion, less hassle to just pick up a replacement.


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## Theriot

I have a ton of Milwaukee stuff the only thing I don't like is their roto zip. Love it for about two months and than started hearing the bearing make noise and than it broke. I did use it for a lot of overhead Sheetrock work but still two months just don't cut it.


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## Shankerw

UPDATE - I had the same double flashing powerline problem. I took my charger apart and could find nothing amiss or wrong on the inside. Based on all the feedback about loose big capacitor (even though mine was snug as a bug) I went ahead on faith and added a little solder to the capacitor leads and lo and behold IT FIXED IT. Batteries are now back on and charging. Thanks to all the contributors here.


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