# Tips for running Rigid Conduit.



## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

pipe fitting is fun
get a pro tractor


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## pjg (Nov 11, 2008)

Learn how to calculate your shrink and gain. That way you can cut and thread prior to bending. Get a Benfield bending manual


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## eejack (Jul 14, 2012)

Put a small rag in the end of the pipe before you thread it. It keeps the oil and debris out, makes clean up quicker. Just remember to remove it. Keep a rag on you to wipe off the pipe where you want to mark it - pencil for bends, sharpie for cuts.

Rigid is fun, enjoy it.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Don't.


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## LightsOn81 (Jan 6, 2012)

The best thing to do with running rigid as far as layout is plan out your run and visualize as much as is possible. You want to avoid using thread less or Ericsson fittings but don't kill yourself trying to never use them. When it comes to installing and threading, use a screwdriver to break the threads before you back the die off. This will preserve the life on the teeth. If you run out of threading oil, for Gods sake don't use motor oil. The best threading oil beside threading oil is bar chain oil for chain saws. Like another guy said, ream and swab your field threads. Wear gloves and keep one set just for threading and one for installing. Be exact in your measurements.


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## MollyHatchet29 (Jan 24, 2012)

Hold on tight to that power pony. Oh and eat your wheaties. 

Rigid isn't as forgiving as EMT so measure and bend precisely. 

Have fun and good luck.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Don't plan your next stick. Plan your entire run.


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## D-Bo (Apr 15, 2012)

learn your shrink and gain for 90s and offsets like the back of your hand so no one has to see them whipping around the back of the mule. thats not good for anybody


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## NacBooster29 (Oct 25, 2010)

Layout as much as possible. Use as few bends as possible. Straight pipe is easy pipe.


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## Control Freak (Mar 8, 2008)

After you cut and thread, leave that piece on the vise and spin the next piece on. Makes it alot easier than trying to spin it together on the floor or in place. Also try to tie the pipe up using rope and slings. Only fasten one side of the rack when using trapeze style strut racks.The rack will get in the way of the next pipe.


In NYC most jobs that require threaded conduit prohibit using thread-less fittings.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Control Freak said:


> In NYC most jobs that require threaded conduit prohibit using thread-less fittings.


I'm sure that rule has nothing to do with intentionally increasing the amount of (union) labor required to do the job.


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## Control Freak (Mar 8, 2008)

Also when using Erickson fittings and Meyers hubs you should run factory threads through the threader before installing them otherwise you will have a tough time. Make sure to fasten the vise to the deck as well if you are using a pony instead if a 300. I tie the pony to the vise with a sling so if it does get away from me it doesn't break my wrist.

Don't forget that you always need extra "meat" on the pipe for threads. Other than that it's the same as EMT.


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## Control Freak (Mar 8, 2008)

Peter D said:


> I'm sure that rule has nothing to do with intentionally increasing the amount of (union) labor required to do the job.


Here we go.....!...
Lmao


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

eejack said:


> Rigid is fun, enjoy it.


Remind me not to go party with you. :laughing:


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## Article 90.1 (Feb 14, 2009)

Instead of trying to spin a 10' stick into a coupling, "start" the coupling onto the next stick a few turns, then send the stick home.

When cutting let the saw do the work.

If threading on a vise with a pony always know what your escape route is. Also stand on the side that will let the pony pull away from you WHEN it jams.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

Peter D said:


> I'm sure that rule has nothing to do with intentionally increasing the amount of (union) labor required to do the job.


......it has more to do with the intent of running rigid in the first place, get back in the truck.:laughing:


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

I see a lot of guys will stand on both sides of the conduit and talk when threading with a rigid pony. Always stand clear of the pony handle on BOTH sides of the conduit, because if the person threading lets go or looses his grip, that pony handle is going to fly around that conduit at a high rate of speed. The person threading has the responsibility for the safe use of the tool and all who surround him.


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## NacBooster29 (Oct 25, 2010)

We have the luxury of a rigid threading machine on wheels. It turns the pipe and the die stays stationary. The only downside is you cannot stick a short 90 in the jaw. You need at least 30" of straight pipe to thread. The pros of such a machine are that it dispenses oil for you. It has a reamer on it. It has a tubing virtue on it. Very nice tool. If you have a few grand pick one up.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

We have that also, well spent money if you run rigid a lot.


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## MollyHatchet29 (Jan 24, 2012)

NacBooster29 said:


> We have the luxury of a rigid threading machine on wheels. It turns the pipe and the die stays stationary. The only downside is you cannot stick a short 90 in the jaw. You need at least 30" of straight pipe to thread. The pros of such a machine are that it dispenses oil for you. It has a reamer on it. It has a tubing virtue on it. Very nice tool. If you have a few grand pick one up.


The 1822? We had one at the old magnet wire plant I worked at, but ours cut the pipe too. Too easy... very expensive. It does save a lot of time, though.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

KLovelace29 said:


> The 1822? We had one at the old magnet wire plant I worked at, but ours cut the pipe too. Too easy... very expensive. It does save a lot of time, though.


Chucking a 3 foot stub 90 in one of those and then spinning it around is a great way to clobber a guy in the head too :brows:


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## MollyHatchet29 (Jan 24, 2012)

erics37 said:


> Chucking a 3 foot stub 90 in one of those and then spinning it around is a great way to clobber a guy in the head too :brows:


Good to know... Now where's Niteshift?


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## cory3408 (Aug 12, 2012)

Try to minimize the use (or it may look sloppy) but the threaded 3 piece couplings/ unions can really save a lot of headache


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## bobelectric (Feb 24, 2007)

Get young help. Did a job using 4" rmc. 100 # a stick.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

Plan your run, whistle alot and if needed, install the hardest piece first. Then work in both directions. 
Use a threadless if needed. Time = $, so don't waste it fighting a mistake. 
Drink lots of coffee.


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## 123electric (Jun 3, 2012)

When bending with a 885, 884 learn your ram travel, unless your using factory bends.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

One thing that I make my guys do is to use short 90's. It makes it easier to spin on and since we are always changing things it makes it easier to take apart. The other thing is to limit the number of bends on a single stick of conduit. Couplings are cheap compared to the labor required to get multiple bends on a single stick of pipe correct. Unions have there place and sometimes there is no other way, but good planning can eliminate the need for many of them without increasing the labor time.


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## NJWVUGrad (May 12, 2011)

Invest in a no dog for offsets. I was a third year apprentice and was the ground man for JW running rigid in a boiler room and he couldn't get over how he never saw me fixing an offset . Always kept a no-dog in my bibs for using on the chicago and can count on one hand the number of dogs i had to fix. 

My JW gave me a ration of sh*t when he found out I was using it (he was a d-bag like that). My thought is that some people have a knack for doing it by eye and some don't, I don't so why waste time and material. 

And write all your take up and travel measurements on the side of the chicago if you can. I would spray the legs with some light spray paint at the beginning of the job and write down all my measurements with a sharpie then hit it with some clearcoat. 

I like unlined bibs to stay clean when using a 300 machine, and you can keep a notepad and pencil in the front pocket for writing down the bends you need.


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## denny3992 (Jul 12, 2010)

KLovelace29 said:


> Hold on tight to that power pony. Oh and eat your wheaties.
> 
> Rigid isn't as forgiving as EMT so measure and bend precisely.
> 
> Have fun and good luck.


co i worked for kept a 1" rope with a loop in the end on all tripods so u could put it around the pony handle in case it got away!


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

always check the insides of the pipe, even on the factory ends, before assembling !! threadings/shavings left in the pipe by accident will ruin your day when its time to pull wire


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## bthesparky (Jan 23, 2009)

Good earth magnet level, fatmax tape, no dog, channies with good teeth. Plan, plan, plan. Run factory threads when going into a fitting.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

Two(edit...three) words. Threadless connectors/couplings





KLovelace29 said:


> Rigid isn't as forgiving as EMT so measure and bend precisely.
> 
> .


In some ways, rigid is more forgiving. You can adjust a bent 90 with no signs of kinkage that would appear on the EMT.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

Peter D said:


> I'm sure that rule has nothing to do with intentionally increasing the amount of (union) labor required to do the job.


So you are saying non-union shops have no clue when it comes to ridged.



NacBooster29 said:


> We have the luxury of a rigid threading machine on wheels. It turns the pipe and the die stays stationary. The only downside is you cannot stick a short 90 in the jaw. You need at least 30" of straight pipe to thread. The pros of such a machine are that it dispenses oil for you. It has a reamer on it. It has a tubing virtue on it. Very nice tool. If you have a few grand pick one up.


This is the only type I have ever used. Oh, I do remember doing it by hand once or twice in all these years.



KLovelace29 said:


> The 1822? We had one at the old magnet wire plant I worked at, but ours cut the pipe too. Too easy... very expensive. It does save a lot of time, though.


All stationary threaders can cut if you have a pipe cutter attachment. Is there a special cutting tool attachment I am not familiar with?




220/221 said:


> Two(edit...three) words. Threadless connectors/couplings
> In some ways, rigid is more forgiving. You can adjust a bent 90 with no signs of kinkage that would appear on the EMT.


Thread-less connectors and couplings are for hacks. Use EMT if you must use thread-less anything. There are uses for them, but new work is not one of them.
I can throw a wasted section of EMT out the window with zero concern for material cost. I cannot throw a wasted section of ridged out the window if I am concerned about material cost.


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## Sparkypyro (Nov 2, 2011)

If you haven't already done so set yourself up with a platform to work on, old pallets with a sheet of plywood works well. Get some plastic tarp and lay over top of plywood with equal amounts hanging off all sides. Line the top all the way around with 2X4's laying flat. Bring up edges of tarp and staple to 2X4's. You can also wrap the plastic around the 2X4's before you fasten them down. Now set your threader in the middle then fill the interior with kitty litter to soak up any spills. Also slightly elevate the back end of the threader to keep the oil from running down the inside of the conduit.Surprised at how many times I have not seen this done on big job sites. Really helps keeping the oily footprints to a minimum on the job site. What's nice about using a pallet base is the entire setup can be moved easily with a fork lift or pallet jack without disassembling.


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## al_smelter (Jan 25, 2011)

Read post 31 again. And again. Been there, done that.


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

I hate short 90's. I hate pulling through short 90's. I hate everything about short 90's, except I agree it's easier to install.


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## Sparkypyro (Nov 2, 2011)

wildleg said:


> I hate short 90's. I hate pulling through short 90's. I hate everything about short 90's, except I agree it's easier to install.


How is pulling through a short 90 any different?


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

Sparkypyro said:


> How is pulling through a short 90 any different?


It uses less wire :thumbsup:


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## Sparkypyro (Nov 2, 2011)

nolabama said:


> It uses less wire :thumbsup:


I think he means a short stub, not a reduced radius 90.


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

I like sweeps. I never have problem pulling thru them. whatever floats your boat.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

Sparkypyro said:


> I think he means a short stub, not a reduced radius 90.


Yes, that is exactly what I meant. 

Short radius 90's are to be avoided. In the rare cases where we are installing 1/2 rigid, we always bend it on the 3/4 shoe as the radius for 1/2" on a chicago bender is too tight to be usable.


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## kelleyss (Mar 22, 2012)

Short piece of rope through tristand leg up to pony ain't going no where 1/2 - 2 inch I'm lazy one hand on pony one Marlborough light in other with a little oil pump every now and then


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## Stan B. (Jul 25, 2008)

Wow, great thread. One thing that I think was touched on but easy to miss in all these posts is (depending on the type of run) - don't get ahead of yourself with securing the conduit super tight right away. As long as it doesn't impede measuring, temporary supports can be your friend; sometimes you'll need to hang a length or two down or otherwise pull it out of its run to spin that 90 or offset on.

edit: Oh and wear crappy clothes.


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## Stan B. (Jul 25, 2008)

NacBooster29 said:


> We have the luxury of a rigid threading machine on wheels. It turns the pipe and the die stays stationary. The only downside is you cannot stick a short 90 in the jaw. You need at least 30" of straight pipe to thread. The pros of such a machine are that it dispenses oil for you. It has a reamer on it. It has a tubing virtue on it. Very nice tool. If you have a few grand pick one up.


Sounds like a Ridgid 535. We had one on one of our jobs (usually we get a 300), it was great not having to hand pump the oil.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

First off, use IMC in preference to RMC. It's a lot lighter.

Plan, plan, plan. Getall your supports set up in advance. 

Make sure you can unplug the threader in a hurry, if it grabs you. Don't wear anything the threader can grab.

De-burr the pipe like a man posessed- especially if you're cutting the pipe with a pipe cutter of any sort.

Lay down some floor protection. A plastic tarp, covered by an absorbent canvas tarp, pig mat, or even cardboard will work. (Take care to keep things from slipping when you step on them) Probably the best way is to make a huge box - 8-ft. square for starters - and fill it with sand or kitty litter. It's all about catching the oil drips and metal chips.

Use LOTS of thread oil when cutting threads. Get the right oil - not just any oil will do. Also run your dies over any 'factory' threads, to remove any excess zinc coating.


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## green light (Oct 12, 2011)

I like to put a little dab of noalox on the threads berfore I spin em together.


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## denny3992 (Jul 12, 2010)

worked a place where they specd 3m scotch cote


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## bill39 (Sep 4, 2009)

denny3992 said:


> worked a place where they specd 3m scotch cote


on pipe threads? That's weird.
Scotchkote is for waterproofing taped up joints.

I worked in a refinery where they spec'd a type of pipe dope that was copper-colored and was to provide better conductivity. I don't even want to think how much that must cost these days.


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## JDJ (Aug 9, 2011)

bill39 said:


> on pipe threads? That's weird.
> Scotchkote is for waterproofing taped up joints.
> 
> I worked in a refinery where they spec'd a type of pipe dope that was copper-colored and was to provide better conductivity. I don't even want to think how much that must cost these days.



Kopper-Kote? Budweiser had that for all RobRoy installations. Conductivity and helped against corrosion.


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## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

Yea, Kopr-Kote is the Thomas & Betts, UL-listed version of a coper based anti-seize. The oil refinery probably had you use "C5-A," which is essentially the same product made by Henkel / Permatex. C5-A js not listed for electrical connections; Henkel dropped the effort after seeing the costs - their markets are not very interested in such a listing.

In any case, such products are not a 'pipe dope' in the usual sense. Rather, they keep threads from rusting together. Anti-seize compounds eventually evaporate, leaving a film of fine metal dust between pieces. 

I can also understand someone using Scotch-Kote on assembled connections; perhaps for sealing, perhaps to help keep the threads from rusting. "Cut" metal will rust much quicker than metal with a 'mill finish.'


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## cdnelectrician (Mar 14, 2008)

Amish Electrician said:


> Yea, Kopr-Kote is the Thomas & Betts, UL-listed version of a coper based anti-seize. The oil refinery probably had you use "C5-A," which is essentially the same product made by Henkel / Permatex. C5-A js not listed for electrical connections; Henkel dropped the effort after seeing the costs - their markets are not very interested in such a listing.
> 
> In any case, such products are not a 'pipe dope' in the usual sense. Rather, they keep threads from rusting together. Anti-seize compounds eventually evaporate, leaving a film of fine metal dust between pieces.
> 
> I can also understand someone using Scotch-Kote on assembled connections; perhaps for sealing, perhaps to help keep the threads from rusting. "Cut" metal will rust much quicker than metal with a 'mill finish.'


We used to use it a lot in chem plants, thank god the last contractors used it too... It makes it a heck of a lot easier to get stuff apart later. Also helps when spinning on boxes etc .


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

If your going to do a lot of threading, build a 6'x6' out of 2x4's and line with plastic, than kitty litter (fresh) or some other oil absorbing material, and put threader in center of 6x6 frame. Oil spills and mess is contained to the 6'x6', works great. It can also double as a penalty box for apprentices:whistling2::laughing:.


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

LightsOn81 said:


> When it comes to installing and threading, use a screwdriver to break the threads before you back the die off. This will preserve the life on the teeth. .


I am not familiar with this technique
Can you explain?


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

wcord said:


> I am not familiar with this technique
> Can you explain?


I believe what he is saying is to 'clean' out the threading dye before reversing the threader, continue to oil on reverse as this serves two purposes; keeps thread dye cool and lubricates.


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## niteshift (Nov 21, 2007)

KLovelace29 said:


> Good to know... Now where's Niteshift?


:laughing:


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## Awg-Dawg (Jan 23, 2007)

360max said:


> I believe what he is saying is to 'clean' out the threading dye before reversing the threader, continue to oil on reverse as this serves two purposes; keeps thread dye cool and lubricates.


 Thats how I do it.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

JDJ said:


> Kopper-Kote? Budweiser had that for all RobRoy installations. Conductivity and helped against corrosion.


That would be against the manufacturers directions


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

360max said:


> I believe what he is saying is to 'clean' out the threading dye before reversing the threader, continue to oil on reverse as this serves two purposes; keeps thread dye cool and lubricates.





Awg-Dawg said:


> Thats how I do it.


Always do that , just wondering what he meant by "break". 
Those little shavings can wreck a set of teeth 
And as been mentioned, use lots of oil


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## al13nw4r3LC76 (Apr 6, 2009)

Thank you for all the knowledge! I'm going to be graduating next friday and I'm realizing that I have so much more to learn! I have an apprentice (1st year ) working with me and was able to share with him the stuff you have all let me know. As well as some other things I've picked up over the years.

We installed a run of 2 inch today and we both did well. We took careful measurements and it turned out great. Made the foreman happy and only had to use 1 union.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

al13nw4r3LC76 said:


> Thank you for all the knowledge! I'm going to be graduating next friday and I'm realizing that I have so much more to learn! I have an apprentice (1st year ) working with me and was able to share with him the stuff you have all let me know. As well as some other things I've picked up over the years.
> 
> We installed a run of 2 inch today and we both did well. We took careful measurements and it turned out great. Made the foreman happy and only had to use 1 union.


Why is an apprentice training a 1st year?


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## union347sparky (Feb 29, 2012)

sparky970 said:


> Why is an apprentice training a 1st year?


Happens all the time. I was a third year in charge of a first year and a helper. We were pulling branch circuitry. I always had a major beef with the blind leading the blind. I complained because I was always working by myself roughing in walls then down the hall a crew of three journeyman were working together. No matter how much I bitched nothing seemed to change.


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## running dummy (Mar 19, 2009)

sparky970 said:


> Why is an apprentice training a 1st year?


He's graduating next Friday, as stated in his post. 

Pretty sure he can teach a first year a few things


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## eejack (Jul 14, 2012)

al13nw4r3LC76 said:


> Thank you for all the knowledge! I'm going to be graduating next friday and I'm realizing that I have so much more to learn! I have an apprentice (1st year ) working with me and was able to share with him the stuff you have all let me know. As well as some other things I've picked up over the years.
> 
> We installed a run of 2 inch today and we both did well. We took careful measurements and it turned out great. Made the foreman happy and only had to use 1 union.


Good for you. Keep learning and keep spreading the knowledge. I have been doing this schtuff for nearly 30 years and I learn something new all the time.

I had an apprentice who I was teaching how to bend recently who showed me an app for his phone - ibend I think it was called. He used the phone as a protactor and it beeped when the desired bend was hit.

At least he didn't call me gramps when I called that neato. :laughing:


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## Louieb (Mar 19, 2007)

Some jobs do not care what app you have,If they see a cell phone in your hand during working hours you are gone.Its like a no tolerance thing.


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## NJWVUGrad (May 12, 2011)

union347sparky said:


> Happens all the time. I was a third year in charge of a first year and a helper. We were pulling branch circuitry. I always had a major beef with the blind leading the blind. I complained because I was always working by myself roughing in walls then down the hall a crew of three journeyman were working together. No matter how much I bitched nothing seemed to change.


Gotta love it...I was a third year apprentice and had been with a shop for 9 mos...I had been with them as a first year for a full year as well. Me and the foreman worked together wellk. It was always me, him and maybe 2 or 3 other guys at the beginning of a job.

When things got rocking and rolling they would man the job up out of the hall, this is where union guys can get a bad rap. All of the sudden I can't look at the prints, guys b*tch if I'm working by myself or with another apprentice or god forbid I am doing something they would rather be doing. 

Just do your f"in job and stop worrying about what everyone else is doing.


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## janagyjr (Feb 7, 2011)

Louieb said:


> Some jobs do not care what app you have,If they see a cell phone in your hand during working hours you are gone.Its like a no tolerance thing.


It's understandable. Often privilege gets abused and then everyone loses out.


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

nolabama said:


> pipe fitting is fun
> get a pro tractor


pipe fitting is the fitters job, we run conduit.


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## Cl906um (Jul 21, 2012)

as far as using a hogs head far threading larger pipe w porta pony, grind down a 1" pipe rgc btw to fit in. if it is a newer head it will allow you to do this with a set screw on one side of it. this allows you to mount the head in a vise instead of lifting it to larger pipe every time. next take a rope and put a clove hitch to a piece of i think 1".maybe 3/4. whatever fits into the end of the porta pony handle, and tape it up so will not slide off the 2' long piece. tie other end of rope to bottom of tri stand leg on right side. this allows you to pull out of handle of porta pony when not using it to set down. have fun with this. follow the experienced. they will show u alot of tricks. spinning 90's with ropes... rigging .spinning together pipe with rope. find the laziest smart guy around. they think up these things in their sleep, and ask for advice. i bulled a lot when i was an apprentice. regret none of it.


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## icefalkon (Dec 16, 2007)

eejack said:


> Good for you. Keep learning and keep spreading the knowledge. I have been doing this schtuff for nearly 30 years and I learn something new all the time.
> 
> I had an apprentice who I was teaching how to bend recently who showed me an app for his phone - ibend I think it was called. He used the phone as a protactor and it beeped when the desired bend was hit.
> 
> At least he didn't call me gramps when I called that neato. :laughing:


LOL I was called an "old timer" the other day by a 1st Yr. Apprentice...I was like...WHAT???? When did I become my old man?? LOL


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