# Gtd20a



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Are you talking about the switch in the diagram being overid ?


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Yes. The lights simply stay on all the time unless the breaker is turned off.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

I'm pretty sure it's a local disconnect for the unit. It's coming from the supply.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

I'm not quite sure of the usage but that it's just another form of control to back up lights. How many lights do you have?


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

You must have a generator?


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Does it all make sense? It's just a fancy transfer switch.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Yes. There is an emergency power source available and it is wired according to the diagram. However, it is not even turned on while we're testing these things.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

It makes sense--in theory. Why the lights will not switch on and off does not, however.


----------



## Julius793 (Nov 29, 2011)

Because you mis-wired the t2 side. And did you install the jumpers like in the diagram?


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

The lights will drop out for a second until that genny gets up to speed but when that board sees the loss of AC power there's probably a relay that's got DC power run through an AC powered relay. No AC power, drops out relay. Close DC circuit and starts the genny. Somethin of that nature.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Julius793 said:


> Because you mis-wired the t2 side


I have a joint made from the normal power hot: 18 AWG wire going to 1 (on T2) and a 12 AWG pigtail going to 3 (on T1). Neutral is also according to diagram. Jumpers from 1 on T1 to 4 on T2 is made as well as 5 on T1 to 4 on T2...suggestions?


----------



## Julius793 (Nov 29, 2011)

DCF said:


> I have a joint made from the normal power hot: 18 AWG wire going to 1 (on T2) and a 12 AWG pigtail going to 3 (on T1). Neutral is also according to diagram. Jumpers from 1 on T1 to 4 on T2 is made as well as 5 on T1 to 4 on T2...suggestions?


Bud it's 1-3 5-4


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Chrisibew440 said:


> The lights will drop out for a second until that genny gets up to speed but when that board sees the loss of AC power there's probably a relay that's got DC power run through an AC powered relay. No AC power, drops out relay. Close DC circuit and starts the genny. Somethin of that nature.


I think I'm miscommunicating. The generator/emergency power is not the issue. The switch should work regardless of whether or not the e-power is on or available or not. It does happen to be available and when I cut the normal power it does kick on--so that's good.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Julius793 said:


> Bud it's 1-3 5-4



Right. I misspoke. It is wired as you say above. Sorry.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Why did you jump 1 on (t1) to 4 (t2)


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Are you talking about a wall switch?


----------



## Awg-Dawg (Jan 23, 2007)

Chrisibew440 said:


> The lights will drop out for a second until that genny gets up to speed but when that board sees the loss of AC power there's probably a relay that's got DC power run through an AC powered relay. No AC power, drops out relay. Close DC circuit and starts the genny. Somethin of that nature.


 
I don't think that's what it does.:laughing:


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Awg-Dawg said:


> I don't think that's what it does.:laughing:


Probably not. You gotta admit. It sounded good.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Chrisibew440 said:


> Are you talking about a wall switch?


Yes.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Yes, you should still have control with the wall switch. And you don't, is that what your saying?


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Chrisibew440 said:


> Yes, you should still have control with the wall switch. And you don't, is that what your saying?


Right. That is what I am saying. I apologize for my inability to articulate that.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Now were getting somewhere. Lol. Well 2 on (t1) should go straight to your fixture or wall switch whatever you need to do.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Chrisibew440 said:


> Now were getting somewhere. Lol. Well 2 on (t1) should go straight to your fixture or wall switch whatever you need to do.


It is already going straight to the fixture. Which is why I think it is overriding the wall switch.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

That's exactly what your doing. I didn't quite get what you were getting at. But yes if you send it straight to the fixture and not the "line side" of the wall switch then yes when that thing sense the loss of normal power that's what will happen. If you sent 2(t1) to your wall switch and the switch was open or "off" then nothing.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

And right now with it all hooked up. You shouldn't be seeing it function unless your testing it which I believe you said you were huh.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Chrisibew440 said:


> That's exactly what your doing. I didn't quite get what you were getting at. But yes if you send it straight to the fixture and not the "line side" of the wall switch then yes when that thing sense the loss of normal power that's what will happen. If you sent 2(t1) to your wall switch and the switch was open or "off" then nothing.


I will try that first thing in the morning. Thanks.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

No worries. Let me know. My endorphins are in a heightened state right now.


----------



## DCF (Dec 21, 2013)

Chrisibew440 said:


> And right now with it all hooked up. You shouldn't be seeing it function unless your testing it which I believe you said you were huh.


Yes. It will flop over to E-power when you cut the normal power off.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

DCF said:


> Yes. It will flop over to E-power when you cut the normal power off.


Right. That's what it should do.


----------



## Hawkrod (Mar 19, 2012)

Okay, let me apologize if this has already been figured out but I read all the posts a couple of times and I am more confused than when I started! LOL. I will tell you that I have far too much experience with these things and my guys have miswired them more times than I care to admit. I also have had an unnaceptable failure rate with them although they do have a good warranty (doesn't mean much when I am swapping them AGAIN!). These can be wired several different ways but the diagram posted is for use with an emergency power source. Just to clarify, these have to be wired properly because what they do is allow you to have a light on a normal circuit that can be turned on or off with a switch (or timers, BAS etc...) but when power fails they are flipped over to an emergency circuit that is always on (no switch to turn the lights off).

To wire these per the diagram posted (there are actually 6 wiring options for dimmers etc...):
On T1:
#1 is the hot from the emergency power source (do not switch this line),
#2 is the hot side of the load (do not switch this line),
#3 is the hot from the normal power supply and can have a switch or device to turn the fixture on/off,
#4 is not used,
#5 is the neutral from emergency power source,
#6 is the neutral to the load,
#7 is the neutral from the normal power supply. 

Now, to make this happy family work you must install jumpers:
From T1 #1 to T2 #3
From T1 #5 to T2 #4
From T1 #7 to T2 #2
and finally a line from T2 #1 to the non emergency power source. This last one must be wired between the power source and the switch as it must always detect normal power or it will switch to emergency power.

Done properly they work as designed, any mistake and all bets are off! Also note that often when these fail you will hear them as the relays continually go on and off with a tick-tick-tick that drives everybody in the medical department batty!


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Your second to last paragraph states that it must be wired between the power source and the switch. Can you elaborate a little more please.


----------



## Hawkrod (Mar 19, 2012)

Chrisibew440 said:


> Your second to last paragraph states that it must be wired between the power source and the switch. Can you elaborate a little more please.


The wire that will be connected to T2 #1 must come from the non emergency power source and must be connected to T2 directly. If you have a switch in the T1 #3 line then you need to tap power before the switch and run a wire to T2 #1. You can run a hot to the switch and then run two wires from there to the GTD20A. One is a tap from the supply side of the switch to T2 #1 and the other from the switched side to T1 #3. T2 #1 is the sensor source to flip the relay from regular power to emergency power so it must always sense if there is power present in the non-emergency power source.


----------



## Chrisibew440 (Sep 13, 2013)

Hawkrod said:


> The wire that will be connected to T2 #1 must come from the non emergency power source and must be connected to T2 directly. If you have a switch in the T1 #3 line then you need to tap power before the switch and run a wire to T2 #1. You can run a hot to the switch and then run two wires from there to the GTD20A. One is a tap from the supply side of the switch to T2 #1 and the other from the switched side to T1 #3. T2 #1 is the sensor source to flip the relay from regular power to emergency power so it must always sense if there is power present in the non-emergency power source.


Ahhhh. Ok, got it.


----------

