# Attaching 4 sq. boxes to I-beams



## subelect (Nov 25, 2007)

Is there some Caddy fastener that would make it easier to attach lots of 4 square boxes to I-beams? I thought about using a single beam clamp (1/4-20 bolt) to the box, but I was not sure if there was something better/sturdier out there?
The customer needs us to run 3/4" EMT into each box and continue 3/4" out to additional boxes on the next I-beam.
Anything better than using lots of self-tapper screws would be an improvement. 
Thanks,
Rick


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

subelect said:


> I thought about using a single beam clamp (1/4-20 bolt) to the box,


Use 2 per box and it will be solid.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Like Bob said, or else you could get real fancy and spot Mig a chunk of shallow strut onto each beam and then spring bolt to that.


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## mdfriday (May 14, 2007)

One should do it. Once it is piped it will be solid.


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## wirenut71 (Dec 5, 2010)

Maybe use this:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I generally use these when I'm planning to hang boxes like you describe:


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

Beam clamps is what I use.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

wirenut71 said:


> Maybe use this:



Exactly what I would use. Load up with ¼x20 nuts, a hammer, a nutdriver and go to work.


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## 10492 (Jan 4, 2010)

Shoot them in place with a 22 cal hilti.


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

wirenut71 said:


> Maybe use this:


I've used those before on one job, they worked pretty good. Better than drilling and tapping.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I've done it every way there is. I even welded the 1900's right to the beam once or twice :whistling2:. I usually go with beam clamps or the bang on caddy clips most though.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Dnkldorf said:


> Shoot them in place with a 22 cal hilti.


Interesting that you've specified the caliber, but we haven't talked about the flange thickness yet.


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## 10492 (Jan 4, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> Interesting that you've specified the caliber, but we haven't talked about the flange thickness yet.


What color load do you want to use for what thickness beam?


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## subelect (Nov 25, 2007)

Thank you all.
Rick


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## Ima Hack (Aug 31, 2009)

subelect said:


> I thought about using a single beam clamp (1/4-20 bolt) to the box, but I was not sure if there was something better/sturdier out there?


I think this is as sturdy as it gets without welding, if the j-box is not supporting anything it's way overkill. 













Those Caddy bang ons will do just fine, cheaper & quicker.


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## Breakfasteatre (Sep 8, 2009)

I beams at site im working at are too thick for caddy bang ons, unless they make them in different sizes.

Had to use the cast bolt on pictured


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Breakfasteatre said:


> I beams at site im working at are too thick for caddy bang ons, unless they make them in different sizes.
> 
> Had to use the cast bolt on pictured



Caddy makes them for up to ¾" flange. #M912S.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

I've used various Caddy items that work alright. I've also used toggle bolts on the beams that have a gap between them. Also used self tapping screws. No real preference.


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## miller_elex (Jan 25, 2008)

Self tapping machine screws too, if the flange is 1/4 or less.

No doubt, bang-on mineralacs for the pipe supports.

As for welding strut or boxes on to the deal, I don't think its worth the risk to your health to breathe fumes from welding on galvanized stock. Just not worth the possible long-term effects, and I typically do really crazy sh1t on jobs to cut corners in the safety arena. My 2c.

Sounds like on this job, the money will be made by making sure the lift stays charged and in good working order.


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## miller_elex (Jan 25, 2008)

nitro71 said:


> I've also used toggle bolts on the beams that have a gap between them.


In that gap on the bottom of bar joists is where I hang trapezes from sandwiched square washers on thrd rod.


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

Maybe some o' these :thumbup::jester:


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## BigCrapper (Dec 5, 2010)

I would ask your supply house for a "Caddy Fastener" catalog. Forget about self tappers. They have a clamp and support for every type of beam application.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

macmikeman said:


> Like Bob said, or else you could get real fancy and spot Mig a chunk of shallow strut onto each beam and then spring bolt to that.


In my career, I have never ever used a welder or anything like it when doing installation work. I guess it's okay, but I was taught to never weld any electrical equipment. Only to use the proper fasteners.



Dnkldorf said:


> Shoot them in place with a 22 cal hilti.


I never liked shooting anything. Especially metal. IMO, powder actuated guns are for shooting steel framing to floors.



Jlarson said:


> I've done it every way there is. I even welded the 1900's right to the beam once or twice :whistling2:. I usually go with beam clamps or the bang on caddy clips most though.


Is there any code reference as to why not to weld like this? Like I said before. I was taught to never ever weld. Is our equipment listed to be welded? I am asking?



miller_elex said:


> As for welding strut or boxes on to the deal, I don't think its worth the risk to your health to breathe fumes from welding on galvanized stock. Just not worth the possible long-term effects, and I typically do really crazy sh1t on jobs to cut corners in the safety arena. My 2c.


I am not as concerned about the safety aspect of this practice as I am the loss of craftsmanship doing it this way.
Are we really allowed to weld boxes and conduit to I beams? I am asking?
I have been taught its not allowed or its not the right way.


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## oldtimer (Jun 10, 2010)

John Valdes said:


> In my career, I have never ever used a welder or anything like it when doing installation work. I guess it's okay, but I was taught to never weld any electrical equipment. Only to use the proper fasteners.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 You are right, there are all kinds of fasteners out there. You may have to do some research to see what works best. Talk to your supplier.


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## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

I like the caddy beam clamps too, one for boxes that don't demand the extra sturdiness of two and two for boxes that your doing long pulls from.


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## Mr. Sparkle (Jan 27, 2009)

I had to do it, heck nobody else did yet.....


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## danhasenauer (Jun 10, 2009)

Dnkldorf said:


> What color load do you want to use for what thickness beam?


I have used the .27 cal purple Hilti loads (highest power) on I-beams, no problems. (wear earplugs!)


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## 10492 (Jan 4, 2010)

danhasenauer said:


> I have used the .27 cal purple Hilti loads (highest power) on I-beams, no problems. (wear earplugs!)


I thought black was?

HD sells them, but you have to order them.

I used the black to shoot 3/8" studs in floors.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Dnkldorf said:


> I thought black was?


Black? I have never seen black charges.



> Color coding:
> 
> Color coding for the "rounds" or "single shots" (the three shot strengths or colors typically sold to the general public are brown, green and yellow in brass):
> 
> ...


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder-actuated_tool


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## 10492 (Jan 4, 2010)

BBQ said:


> Black? I have never seen black charges.


No kidding. I could of swore they was black. Special order load.

I could be wrong.......


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