# Best remodel box for plaster wall?



## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I hardly ever do renos on houses old enough to have lath and plaster but I'm doing one right now.

I normally use F-clips but they won't work on walls this thick. What's my Plan B?


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Can't say it's the best, but I almost always use these e-z boxes.. 
I think they only work to about 1" though.










I use these on cabinets where the wood is built up..


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

99cents said:


> I hardly ever do renos on houses old enough to have lath and plaster but I'm doing one right now.
> 
> I normally use F-clips but they won't work on walls this thick. What's my Plan B?


I just finished one and used tiger boxes. A few of course I had to put a bracket box and mud ring on.


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## guy2073 (May 4, 2011)

I use any plastic box, but i normaly have to tin snip 1/4" off the plastic tabs to get my depth. I use my osculating tool to cut the plaster and lath to keep damage to a minimum.

There is a company that makes a tan remod box with metal tabs, they work great but hard to find.
http://www.alliedmoulded.com/index....egory/template/products_sub_res/categoryid/50


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I think I'll make my hole and then get the GC to glue a 2 X 2 inside the wall beside the box with some PL400.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

If you are using romex, the clips on these are are plenty deep for lathe/plaster. Slater brand.












> I think I'll make my hole and then get the GC to glue a 2 X 2 inside the wall beside the box with some PL400.


Just screw the backing into place thru the plaster/lathe. Two little drywall screw heads are simple to patch/fill.


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## Joefixit2 (Nov 16, 2007)

220/221 said:


> If you are using romex, the clips on these are are plenty deep for lathe/plaster. Slater brand.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I've been using those for years on plaster lath, they work great for switches. For receptacles we always cut in right alongside a stud. This way you can use a "Smart Box" and screw it right to the stud.


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## Darkness into light (Mar 8, 2013)

They make F clips with longer fingers. These were the best I found. You can take standard F clips and fold them together to obtain longer fingers, but it builds up a little thickness to them and I will use these as last resort if I don't have a longer fingered F clips


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Use steel boxes with plaster ears and use #4 wood screws into the lathe. Done it hundreds if not thousands of times.


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

The only problem with the Slater boxes is depth inside the plaster walls sometimes they are too deep.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

Sparky J said:


> The only problem with the Slater boxes is depth inside the plaster walls sometimes they are too deep.


Really? I've never seen skinny studs in old houses around here. I have run across them one time in an early production model early 60's era house.


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## FrunkSlammer (Aug 31, 2013)

Around here lath and plaster houses have real 2x4's.


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## guy2073 (May 4, 2011)

Around here alot of interior walls are turned 2x4 walls.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

Joefixit2 said:


> I've been using those for years on plaster lath, they work great for switches. For receptacles we always cut in right alongside a stud. This way you can use a "Smart Box" and screw it right to the stud.


We just screw right through them into stud

kind of a pre-smart box technique

~CS~


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

220/221 said:


> Really? I've never seen skinny studs in old houses around here. I have run across them one time in an early production model early 60's era house.


I had one a few months back it was 2"x3"s but with the plaster and lath depth it almost fit. I had to give the fingers that met the back of the box a little persuasion with my multi-master. 
But yes I do like the longer screws that they have. Only complaint is the stupid push ins for quicker screwing in. My suppliers only get them not the regulars and I have a few or use up before I can get regulars.


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## kbsparky (Sep 20, 2007)

FrunkSlammer said:


> Around here lath and plaster houses have real 2x4's.





guy2073 said:


> Around here alot of interior walls are turned 2x4 walls.


Persactly. Many interior (non-load-bearing) walls were built with the studs "sideways" to increase usable space. Makes it difficult to use any kind of deep box when adding wiring later on.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

I have been using a rotozip with tile bit to cut out the plaster and then the wood bit to cut the lathe behind. Keep the vacuum handy because its a little messy. I do it this way in order to not crack the plaster. I use what ever depth metal old work box will fit, deeper the better. I use a small bit to predrill for small woodscrews so the lathe won't split.


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## Joefixit2 (Nov 16, 2007)

nrp3 said:


> I have been using a rotozip with tile bit to cut out the plaster and then the wood bit to cut the lathe behind. Keep the vacuum handy because its a little messy. I do it this way in order to not crack the plaster. I use what ever depth metal old work box will fit, deeper the better. I use a small bit to predrill for small woodscrews so the lathe won't split.


 
Seems like that would take a while. I like to use a grinder with a 4" diamond blade and a good shop vac. Makes a real clean straight cut with no cracks. Lately I've done a few with a multi tool, used an old blade for the plaster and it worked surprisingly well with barely any dust. I'm saving all my worn out blades till I can find where to buy some abrasive particles and some good glue to stick it on.


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## pistol pete (Jul 4, 2011)

You guys are nuts .. razor knife and a hammer works anyday once you enscribe the plaster just blast It out .. and 6/32's work for extending fingers on plastic boxes


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I just used a Hackzall with a metal blade.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Fein type tool always makes less dust. Love mine. I'll have to get some grit blades and try it. It does take a while with the rotozip and it kicks up the dust. Also makes a precise hole. Certainly not the only way.


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## butcher733 (Aug 4, 2012)

Take a deep carlon old work box and cut the tabs in half lengthwise with *****. Back the screws out as far a possible and install. Works great, cheap, and always available.


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## 220/221 (Sep 25, 2007)

pistol pete said:


> You guys are nuts .. razor knife and a hammer works anyday once you enscribe the plaster just blast It out .. and 6/32's work for extending fingers on plastic boxes


What the hell is behind your plaster?

If it's wood or metal lathe, a hammer isn't gonna do a damn thing. If it's plaster board with 1/2" of plaster, it's going to blow a big ass hole in it. 

And, what kind of razor knife will enscibe plaster?


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

nrp3 said:


> I have been using a rotozip with tile bit to cut out the plaster and then the wood bit to cut the lathe behind. Keep the vacuum handy because its a little messy. I do it this way in order to not crack the plaster. I use what ever depth metal old work box will fit, deeper the better. I use a small bit to predrill for small woodscrews so the lathe won't split.


I do the same except use a multitool. I either use an old blade, a carbide blade, or chip out the plaster with my screwdriver and line man's the old fashioned way, then use a wood blade on the lathe. Works great and I hardly ever need patching done.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

We use a lot of these in older dwellings for smokes & lights>










we're that lazy!


~CS~


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Used a few of those too.


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## Ontariojer (May 19, 2011)

Iberville BC-2104-LRB.
Also comes in a 2 gang LRB-2
Hubble has a similar box

Welded with ears. Easiest,cleanest way by far. I too have done thousands(but i like to use a #5 screw )


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