# outdoor main disconnect height



## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

I have to replace the main disconnect switch and enclosure you see in the picture below. The enclosure itself is 27" high. I didn't measure it on site, but after studying the pic I believe the present handle is about 30" from grade. 

The replacement I'm contemplating is a Square D QO QO1816M200FTRB, with 8 spaces and feed-thru lugs, so I can tap off for a 100-amp feeder to an outbuilding. I have not located a picture of the new Square D enclosure with the door open, but I believe the main is likely to be positioned closer to the top than in this enclosure, which only has the one breaker in it. 

This is not a mobile home. I don't believe the code specifies a minimum. 
Am I mistaken in thinking this replacement will meet code?


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

There isn't a code minimum, but use common sense. Don't install it at a height that a seasonal flood is going to enter it, or whatever.


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

[OP addition:] The logic behind not simply replacing the meter & disconnect both with a combination enclosure is that there is a 4/0 sub-feed cable exiting the disconnect switch near the bottom of the enclosure, through the back, and going some distance into the house. I believe there is zero slack on that cable, and I do not want to replace it. A combination unit wouldn't come anywhere near that point of entry.


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

RePhase277 said:


> There isn't a code minimum, but use common sense. Don't install it at a height that a seasonal flood is going to enter it, or whatever.


we get snow (or used to, anyway) in this area, but in this location no history of flooding, no nearby bodies of water.

And I think the common sense ship sailed when they located this switch so low in the first place.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

If you Google that model number there are many pictures that show the door open and the breaker height.

Either way, why not just come out of the side of the meter pan into the side of the disco? Come into the lowest KO on the disco so it's under the internal equipment.


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## mikewillnot (Apr 2, 2013)

HackWork said:


> ...Either way, why not just come out of the side of the meter pan into the side of the disco? Come into the lowest KO on the disco so it's under the internal equipment.


 there is 4/0 SER exiting the existing disconnect switch near the bottom of the enclosure, through the back, and going some distance into the house. I believe there is zero slack on that cable, and I do not want to replace it. A combination unit wouldn't come anywhere near that point of entry. Same problem with the solution you suggest, positioning the disco next to the meter pan.


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## Julius793 (Nov 29, 2011)

I would go with a meter combination and install a outdoor junction box where the breaker is now located


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

Julius793 said:


> I would go with a meter combination and install a outdoor junction box where the breaker is now located


Same


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

mikewillnot said:


> there is 4/0 SER exiting the existing disconnect switch near the bottom of the enclosure, through the back, and going some distance into the house. I believe there is zero slack on that cable, and I do not want to replace it. A combination unit wouldn't come anywhere near that point of entry. Same problem with the solution you suggest, positioning the disco next to the meter pan.


 It's as simple as this:



Julius793 said:


> I would go with a meter combination and install a outdoor junction box where the breaker is now located


Use the $5 set-screw barrel reducers from Home Depot to make the splices, they work perfect for 4/0.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

mikewillnot said:


> [OP addition:] The logic behind not simply replacing the meter & disconnect both with a combination enclosure is that there is a 4/0 sub-feed cable exiting the disconnect switch near the bottom of the enclosure, through the back, and going some distance into the house. I believe there is zero slack on that cable, and I do not want to replace it. A combination unit wouldn't come anywhere near that point of entry.


They make combination meters with a main breaker and feed through lugs. Should work perfect for that


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

mikewillnot said:


> *I have to replace the main disconnect switch and enclosure you see in the picture below.
> 
> 
> [ This is quite a presumption. You don't claim to increasing the size of this Service. You just want to double tap it... to send power off to an auxiliary load.]
> ...


You're talking about the SERVICE. This is the domain of the Poco. 

Until you've reached the disconnecting means// OCPD you're outside the NEC.

Before making any big plans, you need perform a load calc to see if a heavy-up is essential.

You've mentioned a 4/0 feeder... implying that you're looking at a 200A Service -- right now... so no heavy-up.

Using the Tap Rules, you can double tap ahead of your current main... setting a second disconnect... [ six-throw rule] 

*Or you can double tap on the load side of your current main and set an adjacent 100A OCPD// feeder main... and leave everything pretty much as it is.* [ + Tap Rules ] This would be lowest cost, quickest, and safest.

You imply that you want to set a sub-panel (100A) some considerable distance from the MAIN... so the SqD unit seems over designed for you.


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## ppsh (Jan 2, 2014)

Heres the enclosre you're looking at.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Julius793 said:


> I would go with a meter combination and install a outdoor junction box where the breaker is now located


:thumbsuping ding ding, we have a winning suggestion here! 

Couldn't agree more.

If the current configuration is a hack job don't compound it by doing it over again, make an improvement.


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## active1 (Dec 29, 2009)

Julius793 said:


> I would go with a meter combination and install a outdoor junction box where the breaker is now located


To add in the 3R junction box I would use a splice method for wet locations.
Insulated crimp with heat shrink. Or a wet location insulated set screw one from Burndy or NSI.

Like also said you need to recalculate the load for the service.
You have a 200a service and want to add 100a for an out building.

What size / conductor type is that cable coming off the top of the meter?
Hard to say from the pic but everything looks small for even a 200a.

If I was doing that much work I would start fresh and redo the entire service.

Also why are you wanting feed thru lugs for the 100a out building?
What are you planing on hanging another 100a disco next to it?
Why not just put a 100a breaker in your new meter panel to power the out building?


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