# Bonding Existing Pool



## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

You might find yourself chipping 3 locations looking for rebar as we have before. definetly T&M ..


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## Zparme (Nov 11, 2010)

That sounds like quite a good time.......


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Zparme said:


> That sounds like quite a good time.......


My fav are the ones with fancy pool coping like slate or travertine that is going to be very difficult to match afterwards. 
Luckily, there is a pool deck company here that does a very good job and specializes in aftermarket pool bonding, and patches flawlessly.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Here is a picture of an afterthought pool bond because we were hired after the pour.









I had to find three of these. This pool was in a baasement, so I had to bond the pool, the slab, and the foundation. I used a scanner to scan the floor because there was radiant floor heat in the slab. The scanner told me what was metal and what was non ferrous pipe. The metal was exactly where the scanner said it was, so I didn't hit any floor tubes.


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Here is a picture of an afterthought pool bond because we were hired after the pour.
> 
> View attachment 14398
> 
> ...


That doesn't look like a DB rated clamp:whistling2::laughing:


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Shockdoc said:


> That doesn't look like a DB rated clamp:whistling2::laughing:


 

The one pictured was in a wall, so it just got covered with Dur-ock. The ones in the floor I used a DB clamp so they could pour it back flush.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Zparme said:


> Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction here. I got a call from a couple who needs to have all of their pool equipment moved to another area. Right now, everything is located in a garage, but they are gonna demolish the garage within the next few weeks.
> 
> It's an in-ground pool that's about 40 years old, and it's surrounded by concrete. As far as I can tell, I can't get to any rebar that's encased in the concrete. Of course, the electric supplying the pool is way out of date. No pvc, no gfci, no bonding., etc.
> 
> My question is, how do I properly bond an existing in-ground swimming pool? There really isn't anything located within 5' of the pool, but I know I need to have some sort of grid that I can bond to.


Here's what I would do... call the building department and ask to speak to the electrical inspector. Often times it doesn't even matter what the code book says, it matters whatever that inspector understands about the code.


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

I'm not so sure you have to bond anything other than what you are working on.


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## Voyager (Mar 4, 2010)

electricmanscott said:


> I'm not so sure you have to bond anything other than what you are working on.


 
Bad advice.

If you are going to be responsible for the pool and gound fault issues (and you are responsible if you take the job) you better bring it all up to code. Bond all the equipment and the pool and the surrounding concrete. Otherwise, walk away from the job. You don't want to mess around with the liablities involved with a pool and electrical issues (death) associated with them. That's my thoughts. Do it right or walk away.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Voyager said:


> Bad advice.
> 
> If you are going to be responsible for the pool and gound fault issues (and you are responsible if you take the job) you better bring it all up to code. Bond all the equipment and the pool and the surrounding concrete. Otherwise, walk away from the job. You don't want to mess around with the liablities involved with a pool and electrical issues (death) associated with them. That's my thoughts. Do it right or walk away.


That's why a telephone call's in order. :thumbsup:


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## DAVIDDAUGHERTY (Jun 14, 2010)

Did a job the other day replaced a panel,, the inspector made us bond the pool fence..we had to go from the pool fence to the pool light coper pipe to pump to the panel,,,http://www.24hrvalleywideelectric.com


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

Voyager said:


> Bad advice.
> 
> If you are going to be responsible for the pool and gound fault issues (and you are responsible if you take the job) you better bring it all up to code. Bond all the equipment and the pool and the surrounding concrete. Otherwise, walk away from the job. You don't want to mess around with the liablities involved with a pool and electrical issues (death) associated with them. That's my thoughts. Do it right or walk away.


I didn't give advice.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

DAVIDDAUGHERTY said:


> Did a job the other day replaced a panel,, the inspector made us bond the pool fence..we had to go from the pool fence to the pool light coper pipe to pump to the panel,,,http://www.24hrvalleywideelectric.com


That's a lot of bonding going on! http://www.classicelectriconline.com/


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

I used a scanner to scan the floor because there was radiant floor heat in the slab. [/QUOTE]

MC what scanner did you use BTW?


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Sparky J said:


> I used a scanner to scan the floor because there was radiant floor heat in the slab.


MC what scanner did you use BTW?[/quote]


The M12 milwaukee sub scanner. It can detect metal 6" deep in concrete. It can also find ferrous or non ferrous pipes and tells the difference on the screen. It can find a pvc pipe in the wall.


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## MWayne (Nov 8, 2010)

Shockdoc and McClary, y'all both mention bonding the existing work in three places, is that from article 680 or some other rule? Thanks


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

MWayne said:


> Shockdoc and McClary, y'all both mention bonding the existing work in three places, is that from article 680 or some other rule? Thanks


I only did itbecause the steel was ssperated in three places. The islab around the pool, the bottom of the pool, and the foundation beside the pool since this one was inside.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I end up having it done when additions or something require relocating pool equipment or the pool light j-box. According to the local ahj, the minute I touch existing pool wiring, it becomes my responsibility to get it to code.


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## Sunny 1 (May 11, 2012)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Here is a picture of an afterthought pool bond because we were hired after the pour.
> 
> I had to find three of these. This pool was in a baasement, so I had to bond the pool, the slab, and the foundation. I used a scanner to scan the floor because there was radiant floor heat in the slab. The scanner told me what was metal and what was non ferrous pipe. The metal was exactly where the scanner said it was, so I didn't hit any floor tubes.


Is that # 12? And is that thing qualified to do the job? Excuse me, but I've never done a pool before and it doesn't seem like # 12 is big enough to ground a pool


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Sunny 1 said:


> Is that # 12? And is that thing qualified to do the job? Excuse me, but I've never done a pool before and it doesn't seem like # 12 is big enough to ground a pool


So you're guessing wire's awg by a picture??? Hit the control and + button and it'll be a #10, hit it twice it will be #8...


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

MWayne said:


> Shockdoc and McClary, y'all both mention bonding the existing work in three places, is that from article 680 or some other rule? Thanks


I've always hit three points , just habit if not code.


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## Sunny 1 (May 11, 2012)

mcclary's electrical said:


> So you're guessing wire's awg by a picture??? Hit the control and + button and it'll be a #10, hit it twice it will be #8...


Umm, check my post. I didnt "guess" anything. It was a question.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Sunny 1 said:


> Umm, check my post. I didnt "guess" anything. It was a question.


Im just picking dude. It's #8 solid ( as required)


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## Sunny 1 (May 11, 2012)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Im just picking dude. It's #8 solid ( as required)


Ok thanks


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## Glennsparky (Nov 30, 2011)

Zparme, every wet-niche pool light fixture I've ever seen had a bonding lug inside it. The fixture is also bonded to the rebar. The AHJ may let you extend your bonding grid from the light pipe, if it's metal. Otherwise repull the light with a #8 bond wire and extend the bonding grid from that. good luck.


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