# Interlocking two timing relays



## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

Funkadelicfred said:


> Working on trying to get two timing relays together but I'm not too great with the control stuff. I've got two Schneider RE17RMMU and I'm trying to get one my load to turn on every ten minutes for 5 seconds, indefinitely. Can someone advise?


could you explain a lot more please ?


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

Almost Retired said:


> could you explain a lot more please ?


Sure. What do you need?


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)




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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)




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## Wardenclyffe (Jan 11, 2019)

https://download.schneider-electric.com/files?p_enDocType=Instruction+sheet&p_File_Name=HRB5754401_04.pdf&p_Doc_Ref=HRB57544


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

Wardenclyffe said:


> https://download.schneider-electric.com/files?p_enDocType=Instruction+sheet&p_File_Name=HRB5754401_04.pdf&p_Doc_Ref=HRB57544


Yeah I read it and it helped but I'm still stuck. I'm. Not ready sure what y1 is


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## Wardenclyffe (Jan 11, 2019)

Funkadelicfred said:


> Yeah I read it and it helped but I'm still stuck. I'm. Not ready sure what y1 is


Y1: Control contact-- not sure either lol


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## Almost Retired (Sep 14, 2021)

to begin with ::
_and I'm trying to get one my load to turn on every ten minutes for 5 seconds, indefinitely. Can someone advis_e? 
is not self explanatory
what is your goal ? what do you want to happen?
and how often?
and when should it start?


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

Easiest solution is a double dial recycle timer. On sets the on interval, the other sets the off interval.


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## MikeFL (Apr 16, 2016)

check out this video


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

This is on eBay and I’ve used the exact same one on low output wells where the pump outstrips the recovery rate. Other uses are limited only by your imagination.


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

Almost Retired said:


> to begin with ::
> _and I'm trying to get one my load to turn on every ten minutes for 5 seconds, indefinitely. Can someone advis_e?
> is not self explanatory
> what is your goal ? what do you want to happen?
> ...


I don't want to seem rude cause I appreciate the help but I don't need help with that. The load isn't relevant, I said what I wanted it to do(to Turn on every 10 minutes for 5 seconds), when it should start is always being in its indefinite. I just needed help with the wiring.


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

460 Delta said:


> Easiest solution is a double dial recycle timer. On sets the on interval, the other sets the off interval.
> 
> View attachment 163810


"Too expensive" quote from not me


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

Got it going


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## Mbit (Feb 28, 2020)

See I wouldn't have thought that would work. What's keeping the on relay in the energized position after the off relay energizes? Dumb question I know 🤣


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## Mbit (Feb 28, 2020)

Spring?


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## Peewee0413 (Oct 18, 2012)

Wardenclyffe said:


> Y1: Control contact-- not sure either lol


Command 

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk


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## MikeFL (Apr 16, 2016)

Should be able to do it all with one relay.
ON time and OFF time.


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

Mbit said:


> See I wouldn't have thought that would work. What's keeping the on relay in the energized position after the off relay energizes? Dumb question I know 🤣
> 
> View attachment 163819


The settings. There's a bunch of letters on the bottom like a and h and c and the H will reset the relay to its starting position once its finished its timing cycle.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I would have tried one relay on Di (flasher) with the T set to 10 minutes, and the output / secondary / contacts / R of the Di relay going to the coil / control / Y1 of the second relay set to Bw, with the T set to 5 seconds. On Bw, the contacts of the relay turn on for time T, every time the coil / control changes state. 

Or to be totally fair I'd have said let's get the right relay instead of two wrong relays.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Mbit said:


> See I wouldn't have thought that would work. What's keeping the on relay in the energized position after the off relay energizes? Dumb question I know 🤣


I am not getting it either, I'd think it would have to latch itself? Or maybe a momentary switch to get it started? 

There's also a timing issue regarding the instant of the switch / crossover, that may or may not be an issue with this relay, if there's any delay it might just drop.


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## Mbit (Feb 28, 2020)

Funkadelicfred said:


> The settings. There's a bunch of letters on the bottom like a and h and c and the H will reset the relay to its starting position once its finished its timing cycle.


Gotcha, hey man you made it work that's all you can do sometimes.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Mbit said:


> Gotcha, hey man you made it work that's all you can do sometimes.


make one relay a tick-tock at 10 minutes (DI) use the other relay (5 second) to cause it to drop out and reset.

Ugly as hell but it probably works.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

gpop said:


> make one relay a tick-tock at 10 minutes (DI) use the other relay (5 second) to cause it to drop out and reset.
> 
> Ugly as hell but it probably works.


Both relays start in the N/C position R1- 10 min changes state as A1 is being feed from R2. (T-16 N/C)
(may take 5 seconds as its a crap shoot between the 2 relays of who is first to change state)
R2 has no feed as r1 has changed state. 

10 minutes later r1 switchs from N/O (T-16) to N/C (T-18) that now supply's power to R2
R2 changes state so R1 no longer has power causing it to reset.
R2 times out and changes state to repower R1 which changes state to remove power from R2 causing it to reset. 

A lot easier way's to skin the cat using the Y1 terminal but it works.


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

gpop said:


> Both relays start in the N/C position R1- 10 min changes state as A1 is being feed from R2. (T-16 N/C)
> (may take 5 seconds as its a crap shoot between the 2 relays of who is first to change state)
> R2 has no feed as r1 has changed state.
> 
> ...


I was trying to figure out the Y1 terminal but I couldn't really understand it. It was my first time with timers.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Funkadelicfred said:


> I was trying to figure out the Y1 terminal but I couldn't really understand it. It was my first time with timers.


Well I am glad it wasn't just me, those pictographic instructions from Schneider were as clear as mud. AWFUL. Like I'd switch brands if my brand had instructions that bad. 

You can think of the Y terminal as basically the positive terminal of the relay's coil. So when you apply 24VDC to Y, Y1 goes high, and the contacts change as they are supposed to depending on the setting you set. Then 15 is the common contact, 16 is the NC, and 18 is the NO.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

MARK-TIME Coin Operated TIMER With Key | eBay

Not sure if this will help, but it may generate some revenue.


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

splatz said:


> Well I am glad it wasn't just me, those pictographic instructions from Schneider were as clear as mud. AWFUL. Like I'd switch brands if my brand had instructions that bad.
> 
> You can think of the Y terminal as basically the positive terminal of the relay's coil. So when you apply 24VDC to Y, Y1 goes high, and the contacts change as they are supposed to depending on the setting you set. Then 15 is the common contact, 16 is the NC, and 18 is the NO.


Oh so you'd need a transformer and some push buttons to utilize it then.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Funkadelicfred said:


> I was trying to figure out the Y1 terminal but I couldn't really understand it. It was my first time with timers.


Its not as complicated as it seems 
To do something in the future you need a power supply to keep the timer in the relay running so certain things require power on U which is the switch to A1 (when U is off R will always be off). You also need power to monitor a change of state for accurate timing. 

If you are using A, H, Di settings then the switch to terminal Y1 makes no difference. 

If you plan to use B, C, Bw, Ac then you have to use both switch U and the switch to Y1 (ignore the dotted line that is a indicator to show Y1 switch is closed)

Tbh what you did is perfectly fine. As a controls guy i hate the randomness of having 2 relays racing for who's first when power is applied but as you plan to let this run forever its probably a mute point. You may get a random event say during a power flicker but then again that could happen no matter which way it is wired.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Funkadelicfred said:


> Oh so you'd need a transformer and some push buttons to utilize it then.


Nope same power as you are using on A1.


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

gpop said:


> Nope same power as you are using on A1.


But the timer runs on AC 120v.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Funkadelicfred said:


> But the timer runs on AC 120v.












runs ac or dc 12 to 240v. 
Now we know you are using 120vac we will try to keep the answers based on that voltage. 










Notice A1 and Y1 are on the same power supply line so if A1 is 120vac so is Y1.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Funkadelicfred said:


> Oh so you'd need a transformer and some push buttons to utilize it then.


It looks like your model will run on 24vdc or 24-240VAC, so you don't need a control transformer, and no need for a pushbutton either. Just the two relays.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)




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## MikeFL (Apr 16, 2016)

Doesn't each of those relays have a cycle time and a run time?


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Out of interest what is the load doing. Only thing i have seen that requires that kind of timing is a blow-down/purge timer and if that's the case there are cheaper options then using relays.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MikeFL said:


> Doesn't each of those relays have a cycle time and a run time?


You can set the time on those two little dials, and set the type of cycle with the other little dial. The are like Swiss army timer relays.


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

gpop said:


> Out of interest what is the load doing. Only thing i have seen that requires that kind of timing is a blow-down/purge timer and if that's the case there are cheaper options then using relays.


Umm not too sure I just got told what to do with it. I believe its a circ pump (in a dairy barn) just to stop water from freezing in winter or something along those lines. The plumbers just told us what they wanted.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Funkadelicfred said:


> Umm not too sure I just got told what to do with it. I believe its a circ pump (in a dairy barn) just to stop water from freezing in winter or something along those lines. The plumbers just told us what they wanted.



So the load is probably a solenoid. This is the normal go to in that situation. (you can buy on fleebay for 30 bucks)









1/2 in NPT, 100-120V, Brass Timed Electric Auto Drain Valve


Auto Drain Valve, 100-120V, 1/2 In.




www.grainger.com


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## Funkadelicfred (Jan 30, 2019)

gpop said:


> So the load is probably a solenoid. This is the normal go to in that situation. (you can buy on fleebay for 30 bucks)
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/13...VR_DjBx3IQwSLEAQYASABEgLJivD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


Yes load is a solenoid


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## Gwhoffmeyer (May 22, 2013)

MikeFL said:


> Should be able to do it all with one relay.
> ON time and OFF time.


“Alexa, turn on every 10 minutes for five seconds and repeat forever…"done.


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