# High quality low voltage under cab lights



## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

NDC said:


> A client of mine has kitchen cabinets roughed in with low voltage wiring. I normally install line voltage led strips for under cabinets but I'd like to utilize the wiring that's already there. What are some good quality low voltage lights that I can look into?
> All of the LV wire runs to a switched receptacle in a cabinet.


Did you look at LV verison of LED undercabent lighting system yet ?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Rab if you have lots of money, Ikea if you don't.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> Rab if you have lots of money, Ikea if you don't.


Never thought to check out Ikea thanks


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> Never thought to check out Ikea thanks


I get brutalized here for using it but it's the best bang for the buck I have found in Canada. I was installing it customer supplied and then started buying it for jobs I supply. I have never had an issue with it and it goes up as easily as anything else. Be sure to buy the power cord for the driver. It's sold separately.


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## AK_sparky (Aug 13, 2013)

99cents said:


> I get brutalized here for using it but it's the best bang for the buck I have found in Canada.



I agree. I haven't actually used it, but since I'm looking at under-cab lights for my house I've been looking around. The IKEA stuff gets good reviews and is a really good price.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

NDC said:


> A client of mine has kitchen cabinets roughed in with low voltage wiring. I normally install line voltage led strips for under cabinets but I'd like to utilize the wiring that's already there. What are some good quality low voltage lights that I can look into?
> All of the LV wire runs to a switched receptacle in a cabinet.


First off I thought receptacles in a cabinet were verboten by code up there?

Secondly I also vote for Ikea lights.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> First off I thought receptacles in a cabinet were verboten by code up there?
> 
> Secondly I also vote for Ikea lights.


Never heard that one before. We install receptacle in cabinets for over the range micros all the time. The receptacle in question shares the same cabinet as the OTR receptacle only that it is switched via a backsplash switch.

My supplier says they have and sell a ton of low voltage pucks for under cabinet lighting. I am going to check them out on Monday.

Also going to head to Ikea tomorrow to see what these lights look like. Any particular model I should be looking at? Is it Omlopp? Are they dimmable?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> Never heard that one before. We install receptacle in cabinets for over the range micros all the time. The receptacle in question shares the same cabinet as the OTR receptacle only that it is switched via a backsplash switch.
> 
> My supplier says they have and sell a ton of low voltage pucks for under cabinet lighting. I am going to check them out on Monday.
> 
> Also going to head to Ikea tomorrow to see what these lights look like. Any particular model I should be looking at? Is it Omlopp? Are they dimmable?


Omslopp lights and Ansluta driver(s). Don't think they're dimmable. Forget about the pucks. Go with the sticks.

Rab is dimmable but you need the mag ballast. Big bucks.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

Whats wrong with the omlopp driver? Also when you supply+install these light, do you tell your clients that they are Ikea brand? Is it really noticeable that they are Ikea? 
It's going to be hard to upsell Ikea anything for me.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> Whats wrong with the omlopp driver? Also when you supply+install these light, do you tell your clients that they are Ikea brand? Is it really noticeable that they are Ikea?
> It's going to be hard to upsell Ikea anything for me.


Omslopp is the stick, Ansluta is the driver. I just tell my clients I have had a good history with Ikea and that's good enough for them. If you want the upsell, go with Rab but be prepared for sticker shock.

There might be something on the driver that says Ikea.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

NDC said:


> Never heard that one before. We install receptacle in cabinets for over the range micros all the time. The receptacle in question shares the same cabinet as the OTR receptacle only that it is switched via a backsplash switch.


In the thread about closet receptacles someone posted about it being against code up there.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

From receptacle in closet:


Originally Posted by The_Modifier 
No you cannot. 
26-710 (i)

B-nabs reply: That talks about cabinets and cupboards, makes no mention of closets.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> From receptacle in closet:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by The_Modifier
> ...


Thanks. I did not know about that rule. This is in a newly built home and the outlet was supplied by the builder or so this guy says it was.. The box is surface mounted in an 1110 box unlike the OTR plug so now it's got me thinking some other than the builder did it. The outlet is controlled by a backsplash switch though.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I know a guy who knows a guy who cuts the cord off and hard wires it. No receptacle, no requirement for a....

Never mind.


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## jenoonan (Oct 24, 2016)

We've been using Kichler's LED tape light with optional track and lens for a very nice clean look. It adds up quickly but it looks very clean even if you are sitting below that level in an adjoining room and can see it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Whitehouze (Feb 28, 2017)

How are you installing the led tape? (Solider or connectors? And how are you extending the wires?(marettes or a sort of inline connector?) I'm wondering if this is doable with 12 or 24v systems or a code violation in Ontario as it's vague with class 2 circuits... is it just the transformer required to be csa/cul etc or the light strip itself there are hundreds selling these asfor the IKEA system they are cheap and complete and provide somewhat of a custom look and the drilling large holes in cabinetry to accommodate the large connectors and the name turns me and potential customers away... 
let me know your thoughts on how to accomplish what seems a simple task without any implications or code violations lol thanks in advance


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## mbednarik (Oct 10, 2011)

Diodeled blaze tape is what I usually use. Never had a problem


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## Whitehouze (Feb 28, 2017)

Could you pm me please have a few questions on install procedures... I know how to do it but want to ensure I'm doing it correctly thanks


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

MechanicalDVR said:


> From receptacle in closet:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by The_Modifier
> ...


Just saw this, although it is an older post...

26-710(h)(i-v) exempts all the microwave, OTR hood etc from the "no receptacles in a cupboard rule.

26-710(j) exempts the receptacle for the low voltage lights from the "no receptacle in a cupboard rule.

Cheers

John


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

It's not uncommon to extend the ELV wiring by cutting off the connectors
and adding in sections of LVT (doorbell type wire). Unfortunately this 
modification most likely voids the warranty and any approvals the unit
had. The most likely reason there's many of these out there is that the 
inspectors don't see this wiring. If you want to be sure ahead of time,
contact the inspector or manufacturer. 
Lotus lights have a lot in common with UC lights. In post 19 find Lotus's 
response to this question.
http://www.electriciantalk.com/f8/lotus-lights-dont-do-203114/

BTW, I use line voltage UC's everywhere unless the HO insists on ELV. 
And even then, with the last one I did, I supplied the outlet for the ELV
and told the HO that the kitchen installer would have to put in the ELV. 
Surprisingly, that went fine. 
P&L


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I extend the wiring with LVT all the time.. inspectors don't care about the low voltage side and, by the way, I phoned a Lotus technical dude last year and it's exactly what he told me to do. Maybe it was before they sold extenders. The warranty BS is just so they can sell extenders.

I have never had a fixture failure using LVT. It makes for a nicer job using skinny wire under the cabinet.


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## Whitehouze (Feb 28, 2017)

So I could use the over the rage recepticle. 
I was hoping to use 18 gauge wire plenum rated, solder the wire to the cul listed strip so it is a continuous run of cable or use a DC connector with terminals on it to ease installation and avoid bunching up a bunch of slack cable any thoughts on doing it this way
Thanks for the input everyone


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

If I have unfinished basement below the kitchen, that's where I put my driver. Otherwise, I put it in a cabinet (below the sink or above the range or fridge).

I just butt splice. Sometimes if I want to make it pretty and I have time I heat shrink over top. Sticky backs and tie wraps keep the wiring neat.


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## Whitehouze (Feb 28, 2017)

Yes I was thinking exactly that. But more so concerned with the wiring connections to the strip to keep clean and provide a custom install without splices


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## mitch65 (Mar 26, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> First off I thought receptacles in a cabinet were verboten by code up there?
> 
> Secondly I also vote for Ikea lights.


can't have them in closets....


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

mitch65 said:


> can't have them in closets....


Code ref?
P&L


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Code ref?
> P&L


 
I think it is in Section 13... @99cents would know for sure.

Cheers

John


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Navyguy said:


> I think it is in Section 13... @99cents would know for sure.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> John


Finally, someone understands  .


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

Navyguy said:


> I think it is in Section 13... @99cents would know for sure.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> John


Man, section 13 has a little bit of everything in there. Way more varied than sections 7 or 11.


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