# Cutting boxes into brick, etc



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Anybody seen this Arbortech saw?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Looks like a great tool but we rarely have to do that. When we do have a job like that I just cut at the joints and use my bosch hammer drill.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

BTW-- that saw is $1000.00


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> BTW-- that saw is $1000.00


I can be a downright artiste with a hammer drill and chisel. Just thought this was much simpler and if you have a few to do rental of one would be a huge plus in your corner.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

I already have a Fein Multi-Master -- and a Milwaukee grinder with a dry diamond blade.

Combined they are much cheaper -- and much more flexible -- able to perform many more tasks than the proffered tool.

BTW, that puppy is designed for masons -- as its primary role is to scalp out soft mortar so that the brick can be re-pointed.

It's an essential tool for masons that need to cut-in and blend to old work, too.

You can find it demonstrated -- years ago -- on "This Old House."


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I just ordered 2. Because I don't want to use a dirty one.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

I wish I could find the pics of the boxes I cut into a brick wall a few years back. Used an angle grinder and a m12 sds hammer drill.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Sounds like a great way to get r done for the tools we'd have on hand.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

found them





































who needs to waste money on a $1k tool when an angle grinder and a hammer drill works just as well?


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

Nice!!!


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## Roger123 (Sep 23, 2007)

Tough piece of work and it came out nice!


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

This saw looks like a Fein multimaster specifically made for the task of cutting brick. 

Telsa, have you had luck cutting brick or block with the Multimaster? I haven't tried it. It seems like the blades wouldn't be sturdy enough to stand up to that task. If so what blade did you use? 

I have gone the Michaelangelo route many times, drill and hammer and chisel, but he painted that church ceiling faster than me. 

BTW, if you have a core bit that's the right size, you can use that the same way you'd use an auger bit to rough out a mortise in wood. In my experience they go through red brick like butter.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Two types of red brick in my experience. Really soft ones and really really really hard ones that even slow down a diamond saw. For concrete blocks I often use a roto zip with a tile bit in it, just have to make repeated shallow passes of the knockout going slightly deeper into the block each pass. Works pretty good for the short ends, my diamond blade on the little Makita grinder works the long sides without overcutting. All in all, I'm no fan of any work in brick or concrete unless it's wet concrete right out of the truck.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> This saw looks like a Fein multimaster specifically made for the task of cutting brick.
> 
> Telsa, have you had luck cutting brick or block with the Multimaster? I haven't tried it. It seems like the blades wouldn't be sturdy enough to stand up to that task. If so what blade did you use?
> 
> ...


I have used a small core bit in the past to remove the bulk of the center material of a box cut out but there is still chiseling to square up the corners. In soft brick it isn't that bad, in hard brick it is a task not to knock other bricks and mortar loose. I haven't liked using an angle grinder as the cut is so shallow for the amount of dust you create and chips you send out as projectiles. Grit blades on a oscillating tool are great for soft brick but they still wear out fast. It all depends on how much of this you do.


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