# Recessing a receptacle in finished brick



## robertandjada (May 21, 2017)

Tapcon bit and some imagination

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

This task is COMMON in Europe.

There are a TON of British YouTube videos showing technique and tools.

It's a rarity in North America.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

How thick the brick it is ?? a full sized brick or the thin brick style ??

that will make the differnce how you remove the brick and install the receptale in the brickwall.

I have done few of them in Philippines so it simaur to the European metholds of installing it.


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## joebanana (Dec 21, 2010)

Here ya go


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

If it's soft brick you can use an oscillating tool with a grit blade. Harder brick is going to need an angle grinder. Drill some holes with a masonry bit to define it's shape and make the corners.


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## drspec (Sep 29, 2012)

Like this?























For this one we used an angle grinder, SDS drill and a cold chisel. We had to do 2 like this. Took about 15 minutes per hole. We also had to cut in a receptacle box.
















Not a good pic but you get the idea 









Finish it off with some mortar in a tube and youre good to go


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I use the angle grinder, chipping hammer method myself with good results much like drspec posted.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

I take a Handy box and and outline the box with a pencil. Bring the box up against the upper brick so that the entire mortar joint is removed. Do the same on the left edge.
Use a 1/4" masonry bit at least 6" long the drill out the center of the pencil line all the way around keeping the holes as close as possible. Drill a few holes in the center and the brick will fall apart. Install the Handy box using Old Work Clips
Usually two in the bottom is all you need. This will permanently support the box and lock it in place. Fill in any gaps with mortar. 
It looks original when I'm done.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Hmmmmm, OWC's hold it that well? 

I would typically screw it into the sheathing behind it, shoving something behind the box to keep it spaced out. Or a few tapcons thru the sides into the brick.


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

3DDesign said:


> I take a Handy box and and outline the box with a pencil. Bring the box up against the upper brick so that the entire mortar joint is removed. Do the same on the left edge.
> Use a 1/4" masonry bit at least 6" long the drill out the center of the pencil line all the way around keeping the holes as close as possible. Drill a few holes in the center and the brick will fall apart. Install the Handy box using Old Work Clips
> Usually two in the bottom is all you need. This will permanently support the box and lock it in place. Fill in any gaps with mortar.
> It looks original when I'm done.


Why a handy box rather than another type?


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

readydave8 said:


> Why a handy box rather than another type?


I use a Handy box or Masonry box.
The threaded holes for the screws are inside the box area. Some other boxes have the threaded holes outside the box area and screws can hit the brick or get covered with mortar


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

HackWork said:


> Hmmmmm, OWC's hold it that well?
> 
> I would typically screw it into the sheathing behind it, shoving something behind the box to keep it spaced out. Or a few tapcons thru the sides into the brick.


Yes, OWC's push the box against the brick on the other edge and lock it in place. If there's room, I'll use four, two top and two bottom, but usually just two on one side.
I've never had it fail.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

If you look at the pic above you will see that the box fits between the mortar joints vertically. You can use a chisel or a hammer drill- hammer drill is easier to screw things up but I have done it. 

Best is to drill a series of holes on the break where you want to cut and then chisel it oput where the mortar joint is. Basically remove about half a brick


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

Diamond blade on a grinder for a BC1110 box or a 4" core drill for a BC54151-K box. Never secured the box with anything except I might use a shim to center the box if required. Mortar in place and you are golden.

Use the same approach with block too. Try to place the boxes near mortar joints or in the webs of blocks is possible.

Cheers
John

Cheers

John


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