# Hole Hawg



## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Which model of the "Hole Hawg" do you prefer?


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## lefleuron (May 22, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> Which model of the "Hole Hawg" do you prefer?


 
I think its 3 foot long, might be 3.5. Long enough to shoot straight, but not so big it takes 2 guys to handle it. NOT the 4-4.5 foot one, too heavy.

And not the pencil model (1.5- 2 feet long), you can't shoot that straight over 5 feet, and if it hits a rock just right it will dive like a submarine.

No matter the model, just make sure to pin the air hose to the whip, or you will be sorry one day. Especially if the hose comes off under a new concrete driveway.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

There are 3 that I am aware of - the original, the original with extended length, and the "Super Hawg" which was basically a copy of the original Black and Decker Timberwolf. 

I use the original Hole Hawg as I really only use it for drilling out studs for rough in wiring. It can't be beat for that task, IMO.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> Which model of the "Hole Hawg" do you prefer?


If you are talking of the Milwaukee choices I prefer the two speed low RPM model. (They sell two 2 speed models, one with higher RPM than the other)


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

BBQ said:


> If you are talking of the Milwaukee choices I prefer the two speed low RPM model. (They sell two 2 speed models, one with higher RPM than the other)


Yes, I'm talking about the Milwaukee for studs etc. Should have been more specific. I've seen a couple of different model #, one is 1670-1. I don't know all the differences between the models. Pretty sure I want the 2 speed though.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> Yes, I'm talking about the Milwaukee for studs etc. Should have been more specific. I've seen a couple of different model #, one is 1670-1. I don't know all the differences between the models. Pretty sure I want the 2 speed though.


Last time I checked they had three models

1 speed

2 speeds (About 325/600 RPM)

2 speeds (About 750/1250)

For me if I need that heavy type of drill I want the low speed version with much more torque, just hang on tight.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

#1675.








​


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

480sparky said:


> ​


Yeah, that is a Hole Hog, good thing you are here to provide the pictures. :laughing:


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

I have that one too. Thats a heavy biatch. I use the dewalt corded one also.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

BBQ said:


> Yeah, that is a Hole Hog, good thing you are here to provide the pictures. :laughing:


It is not a Hole Hog. It is a Hole _Hawg. _:thumbup:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

480sparky said:


> #1675.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have always had that model.. take the handle off.. insert a 4" long spade bit and you can drill "I" joists that are 12" on center..


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

B4T said:


> I have always had that model.. take the handle off.. insert a 4" long spade bit and you can drill "I" joists that are 12" on center..


A spade bit?  

Spade bits bind up really easily. I'd much prefer a short auger bit.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Who drills out I joists?:001_huh:


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

This








and this







.

The only drills you need for roughing-in. :thumbsup:


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Peter D said:


> A spade bit?
> 
> Spade bits bind up really easily. I'd much prefer a short auger bit.


You are drill "I" joists that have 1/2" particle board as a web..

An auger bit has nothing to grab and you will be spinning your wheels..


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

480sparky said:


> Who drills out I joists?:001_huh:


The job where I had to install over (60) cans on the first floor had no holes in the joists..


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> I have always had that model.. take the handle off.. insert a 4" long spade bit and you can drill "I" joists that are 12" on center..


When I did work with wood it was always a auger bit. Spade bits seem to crap out really quickly ....... especially when you hit a nail. 

With a drill that powerful just use an auger bit and hang on, you will shear a nail off if you hit one. :thumbsup:


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

BBQ said:


> When I did work with wood it was always a auger bit. Spade bits seem to crap out really quickly ....... especially when you hit a nail.


On average I get about 10 holes out of a spade bit before it's junk. But then again, I usually have to drill out ancient petrified wood, not nice clean 2X4's fresh out of the lumberyard.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

B4T said:


> You are drill "I" joists that have 1/2" particle board as a web..
> 
> An auger bit has nothing to grab and you will be spinning your wheels..


That makes sense, I can see an augur bit stopping at the last little bit.


I am not sure what I would use, I might have to use a spade bit for that.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

BBQ said:


> That makes sense, I can see an augur bit stopping at the last little bit.
> 
> I am not sure what I would use, I might have to use a spade bit for that.


I tried an auger bit.. waste of time.. particle board is really hard and the screw feed does nothing..

There are no nails in the "I" joist web to ruin the spade bit..


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

I chucked an 1 1/8 hole saw into a Hole Hawg last friday. It took forever to get through but it did a nice job.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

thegoldenboy said:


> I chucked an 1 1/8 hole saw into a Hole Hawg last friday. It took forever to get through but it did a nice job.


One time I was doing some plumbing :whistling2: so I went all out and got the auger bits that the plumbers use. I'll never use a hole saw again to drill out a joist.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Peter D said:


> On average I get about 10 holes out of a spade bit before it's junk. But then again, I usually have to drill out ancient petrified wood, not nice clean 2X4's fresh out of the lumberyard.


I never use a spade bit where there might be nails..

I don't want McNutty to add that to his running list of things I do that "bother him".. he has many issues.. :no::no:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

thegoldenboy said:


> I chucked an 1 1/8 hole saw into a Hole Hawg last friday. It took forever to get through but it did a nice job.


Through what? Concrete?


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

B4T said:


> I never use a spade bit where there might be nails..
> 
> I don't want McNutty to add that to his running list of things I do that "bother him".. he has many issues.. :no::no:


I'd rather ruin a $2 spade bit than an auger. I hit nails all the time.


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

Peter D said:


> One time I was doing some plumbing :whistling2: so I went all out and got the auger bits that the plumbers use. I'll never use a hole saw again to drill out a joist.


I was drilling through the floor, I was given the Hawg and the hole saw, so I made it work. :whistling2:


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

480sparky said:


> Through what? Concrete?


No, sub floor. We didn't have the right size auger bits or spade bits so the hole saw kit was brought out. We found out last minute of the day that we needed to stub pipes through a floor that was about to be tiled and my boss wanted exact sized holes, no room for play.


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## lefleuron (May 22, 2010)

Little-Lectric said:


> Yes, I'm talking about the Milwaukee for studs etc. Should have been more specific. I've seen a couple of different model #, one is 1670-1. I don't know all the differences between the models. Pretty sure I want the 2 speed though.


 Sorry buddy,

To me a hole hawg is used to bore a hole under buildings and roads.

My bad.:laughing:


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

Speedy Petey said:


> This
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I have the Super Hawg, top picture, it's an arm breaker if you are not careful. I have mine for the Maxis puller.

I also have the regular right angle drill, like the one in the second picture but without the extension. I got it when I was an apprentice back in the 70's, it still works good.


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## lefleuron (May 22, 2010)

No,

Hole hog.....


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

lefleuron said:


> No,
> 
> Hole hog.....


And the thread title........* Hole Hawg *. :whistling2:


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## tkb (Jan 21, 2009)

Has anyone tried those one toothed hole saws for thick wood?

http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?id=OneToothRoughWoodHC


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

tkb said:


> Has anyone tried those one toothed hole saws for thick wood?
> 
> http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?id=OneToothRoughWoodHC


I tried one of those for making 4" holes in cement board soffits.. it sucked!!

Got a regular carbide tipped hole-saw and it went smooth..

I also tried the same hole-saw for a dryer vent through wood is it sucked there also..

Bottom line.. the work better sitting on the shelf in the original box..


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## lefleuron (May 22, 2010)

480sparky said:


> And the thread title........* Hole Hawg *. :whistling2:


 :laughing: Your a very good reader 480. So is my seven year old daughter, she is proud of it also.

Notice the edit under the post.......

It says "poor spelling". I thought everyone would catch onto that! :laughing:


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

I'd get the super as it has a clutch. If you are using a normal hole hawg I'd get one that has the higher speed setting and use that only. It has less torque on high and won't wrap you up if you hang on to it. On low.. If it catches and you don't have a cheater bar on it, it's spinning.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

lefleuron said:


> Sorry buddy,
> 
> To me a hole hawg is used to bore a hole under buildings and roads.
> 
> My bad.:laughing:


That's ok, I just thought you had been out in the sun too long with no Koolaid!


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

tkb said:


> Has anyone tried those one toothed hole saws for thick wood?
> 
> http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?id=OneToothRoughWoodHC


I saw one at Waffle House, wait you said saw. I was thinking about the 3rd shift waitress.:laughing:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

lefleuron said:


> :laughing: Your a very good reader 480. So is my seven year old daughter, she is proud of it also.
> 
> Notice the edit under the post.......
> 
> It says "poor spelling". I thought everyone would catch onto that! :laughing:



So, how do I know what you edited? :001_huh:


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Let me back this thread up a little. I don't have any houses to rough in and don't know if I will working by myself. What I've ran into a few times is having to drill floor joists in basements. I had a job last week where I had to drill through about 20 joists and was a little hard with just a straight drill, have to start the drill at an angle until there was enough room for the drill between joists. Now, having said that, would I be better served with the "Super Hawg" or any right angle drill or the "Hole Hawg"?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Little-Lectric said:


> Let me back this thread up a little. I don't have any houses to rough in and don't know if I will working by myself. What I've ran into a few times is having to drill floor joists in basements. I had a job last week where I had to drill through about 20 joists and was a little hard with just a straight drill, have to start the drill at an angle until there was enough room for the drill between joists. Now, having said that, would I be better served with the "Super Hawg" or any right angle drill or the "Hole Hawg"?


My vote is the Hole Hawg and get a 18" "nail eater" bit.. 7/8" diameter..

That drill has more than enough power and will last you many years.. 

It is more compact than the Super model..


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## HARRY304E (Sep 15, 2010)

Speedy Petey said:


> This
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yup that is the one i have it will rip arms off hold on tight.


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