# Bending Conduit (EMT)



## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

I'm not sure what your referring to. Making a bend and messuring for the second one is how you do it..

Cox wrote a good book on bending. That book is about 30 years old and might have it in it.. I'll look Wednesday.


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

I see guys using this trick all the time. You just make your first bend, stick the conduit against the wall or another unbent piece of conduit and measure after the bend until you find the distance you want, pencil it, line up the appropriate mark on the bender and make the next bend.

I like using the iBend Pipe app, or the regular multipliers more than this trick though.


----------



## ckeely (Dec 6, 2012)

I know the "normal" way is to use your offset distance with the multiplier and make both marks, then bend but this was a different way...not really sure if it was better or worse. Just remember that you could bend any degree offset and not have to memorize the tables. Let me know if you see something maybe out of the ordinary in the Cox book. Thanks!


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

I'd still say it's worse in situations where there's already bends in the conduit and you can't line it up to a flat surface, or you don't have a flat surface handy. What if you're on a lift?


----------



## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

Do not learn this way. Use your tape and take accurate measurements, that's what its for. Mocking up pipe and making marks is a big waste of time


----------



## 347sparky (May 14, 2012)

ckeely said:


> Some time ago I had a JW teach me a way to bend conduit. It was not the typical Bendfield's technique. He would make a bend, lay it down on a flat surface, and measure the second bend for the offset. Does this sound familiar to any of you master benders out there? I just wanted to refresh this in my skills but just can't seem to remember the steps to do it. Any help would be appreciated!


It's in the Ugly's reference book listed as the Chicago bender technique.


----------



## Bbsound (Dec 16, 2011)

Just bend 30 degree offsets and all your multiplier is 2. 

Pretty easy to remember


----------



## RGH (Sep 12, 2011)

you can download ugly's to your iphone...about $13....do it..!!!...:thumbsup:


----------



## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

RGH said:


> you can download ugly's to your iphone...about $13....do it..!!!...:thumbsup:


For the Iphone?


----------



## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

Ya use 30's when u can but the method the op is speaking of comes in very handy. I know my other multipliers but I use this method often when I need 45 or something other than 30. You cannot use it for over 45 remember.

You make the 1st bend at the pt. Like ya'll said....if it's a 10 inch offset. Ya lay your pipe with the one bend in it next to a straight piece and measure from the straight one down to the bent piece....mark the spot for the 2nd bend and presto.

Ya may have to tweak it some. Remember a multiplier for 45's is what 1.416 or something so unless your using that in your method you would have to tweak it some anyway.

Folks are so quick to discount a way they don't use. Use BOTH methods BOTH when appropriate. I had a foreman bitch at me cause I didn't use this method all the time. Ridiculous. 30's x 2 most of the time and this 'trig' method once in a while when needed.


----------



## Deep Cover (Dec 8, 2012)

RGH said:


> you can download ugly's to your iphone...about $13....do it..!!!...:thumbsup:


I have looked and cannot find a copy of Ugly's for the iPhone.


----------



## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

Vintage Sounds said:


> I'd still say it's worse in situations where there's already bends in the conduit and you can't line it up to a flat surface, or you don't have a flat surface handy. What if you're on a lift?


Do you float in your lift? All the ones I have been in have a floor platform...


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

glen1971 said:


> Do you float in your lift? All the ones I have been in have a floor platform...


Why would he need a lift if he can float?


----------



## sseivard (Apr 25, 2012)

Like 347 said its for rigid with a Chicago bender. Those degree dials never are right you have to do everything by clicks and find the center of the bends.


----------



## ckeely (Dec 6, 2012)

cultch said:


> Ya use 30's when u can but the method the op is speaking of comes in very handy. I know my other multipliers but I use this method often when I need 45 or something other than 30. You cannot use it for over 45 remember.
> 
> You make the 1st bend at the pt. Like ya'll said....if it's a 10 inch offset. Ya lay your pipe with the one bend in it next to a straight piece and measure from the straight one down to the bent piece....mark the spot for the 2nd bend and presto.
> 
> ...


Please explain in some more detail if possible. What measurement would you use? Where do you put your bender on the mark? Thanks.


----------



## cultch (Aug 2, 2011)

An offset is 2 measurments. 1st is the point=at what point does the obstruction occur. Lets say 12". Ya mark the pipe at 12" (with a big fat sharpie of course)

The 2nd # is the actual offset=how far does your pipe have to move in space to avoid the obstruction. Lets say 10".

30 degree bends won't do ya need a sharper angle so ya go with the trig method.

Ya put the bender on the hash mark on most benders. I don't think that's even gonna matter much as long as you use the same mark both times. Put it right on the 1st mark ya made on the pipe (your point mark).

Pull a 45 or whatever. Doesn't need to be precise most of the time. Your gonna pull past the 30 mark and stop before the 45 mark.

Take the pipe outa the bender. Lay pipe flat on the ground. Lay a straight piece right up against it on the ground. Now ya got a nice little trig triangle thing going right?

The straight piece of pipe at the top and the angled piece below that or closer to you...

Take your tape measure and butt it up against that straight piece. Measure down 10" and mark the angled piece of pipe at the point where 10" meets your angled pipe coming from your straight pipe. Too far left it will be less than 10"...no good. Too far right it will be more than 10"...no good. So your tape measure has to be at a 90 degree angle coming from that straight piece or you'll throw your measurement off. Mark it...spin it...make the 2nd bend. This time just use your level to get the angle the same.

Now...go throw it in the dumpster and try again...you'll get it...


----------



## RGH (Sep 12, 2011)

I have an amazon acct thru kindle...then it is sinc to my phone..sorry should of clearer...I have resi and industial versions '08 cycle package deal $26.


----------



## piperunner (Aug 22, 2009)

Wow and its a new year .


----------



## MIKEFLASH (Apr 14, 2012)

Its so much easier to use your multipliers 30 deg x 2 .... 45 deg x 1.4 and 22 x 2.5 piece o' cake


----------



## jimmy21 (Mar 31, 2012)

Why do people say there are charts to memorize? Just memorize the formula. You should already have a calculator handy.

1/(sin of angle) x (amount of offset) = distance between bends

Where these charts come in to play, I'm not sure





The only time you should use that trick is if you need a really rough measurement... "I need about a foot of offset. Anywhere from 10" to 26" should be fine." If you are using that method for everything than you are a hack and should go back to being an apprentice so you can learn how to do things correctly.


----------



## jimmy21 (Mar 31, 2012)

double post


----------



## MIKEFLASH (Apr 14, 2012)

jimmy21 said:


> Why do people say there are charts to memorize? Just memorize the formula. You should already have a calculator handy.
> 
> 1/(sin of angle) x (amount of offset) = distance between bends
> 
> ...


Dido


----------



## MIKEFLASH (Apr 14, 2012)

Mutipliers multipliers multipliers


----------



## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

MIKEFLASH said:


> No offense but dont know what your talking about. I normally use 30's exept when i dont have a lot of room i use 45's just pull a measurement and use a multiplier .... Dont understand whats hard about that


If you normally run pipe larger than 2 inch you'll hardly ever use 30s and 45s


----------



## MIKEFLASH (Apr 14, 2012)

ponyboy said:


> If you normally run pipe larger than 2 inch you'll hardly ever use 30s and 45s


I get what your sayin


----------



## uconduit (Jun 6, 2012)

if you are using a bubble level and you want to get that pipe in fast, nice-looking, and matching the existing installed conduits that someone else may have installed nearby then use the common angles
-----IIRC-----
7* - 8
8* - 7
10* - 5.5
30* - 2 <---- ON BUBBLE LEVEL, MOST COMMON
45* - 1.414 <----- ON BUBBLE LEVEL, LESS COMMON
60* - 1.15


for a 12" offset you place the lines 24" apart if you are using a 30* angle. There are situations where using the common multipliers just won't work, but unless there is a really pressing reason not to use the common multiplier it's best practice just to use the common angles.


----------



## varmit (Apr 19, 2009)

For accuracy, you can use the strait edge method to check your first bend.

Explained: Lay out and make both marks for offset on pipe. Make first bend. Lay pipe against a strait edge. Measure from strait edge to second mark. If this distance is less than the needed offset, add more bend to first bend. If measurement is too much, take a little out.

Multipliers or a calculator are your friends for accurate bends.


----------



## eejack (Jul 14, 2012)

ckeely said:


> Some time ago I had a JW teach me a way to bend conduit. It was not the typical Bendfield's technique. He would make a bend, lay it down on a flat surface, and measure the second bend for the offset. Does this sound familiar to any of you master benders out there? I just wanted to refresh this in my skills but just can't seem to remember the steps to do it. Any help would be appreciated!


All of the advice on bending with proper measurements aside...

This method requires you to know the center of bend on your bender. In most cases it is something like a star or a heart mark on the bender. Sometimes you need to work it out yourself.

Anyway the method works like this.

Bend your first bend.

Lay down the conduit, and using a straight edge ( another pipe ) on the bent end of the conduit, measure the amount of offset you want. The trick is to keep your ruler square to the straight edge and to measure and mark the bottom of the bent piece of pipe.

Once you have your mark, set that mark on your center of bend on the bender and bend until the offset is parallel.

I normally use proper bending methods but there is a time for every tool in the bag...I just don't bring this one out very often.

Enjoy


----------



## jimmy21 (Mar 31, 2012)

eejack said:


> All of the advice on bending with proper measurements aside...
> 
> This method requires you to know the center of bend on your bender. In most cases it is something like a star or a heart mark on the bender. Sometimes you need to work it out yourself.
> 
> ...


The center of bend changes with the amount of bend. That's why this trick will never be all that accurate


----------



## Loose Neutral (Jun 3, 2009)

eejack said:


> All of the advice on bending with proper measurements aside...
> 
> This method requires you to know the center of bend on your bender. In most cases it is something like a star or a heart mark on the bender. Sometimes you need to work it out yourself.
> 
> ...


This is close to what i do also. When I'm using a triple nickel and it's dialed in I use a multipliers of course, but a couple weeks ago I was running some 3" and they had 1 of those crazy triangle benders with the travel rod in an old warehouse that I didn't know **** about. I used the above method except I mark the front of the shoe, make my bend, then pull it out lay it down find my distance from the mark to the center of bend. Then with the straight egde mark my second bend. That mark is the center of bend, so i then move my mark up using the measurement i got from the front of the shoe to center of bend. Bang dead nuts. For benders that aren't accurate or you have no experience with or you are using angles other than your common 30 or 45 this method is the way to go.


----------



## ptcrtn (Mar 14, 2011)

jimmy21 said:


> The center of bend changes with the amount of bend. That's why this trick will never be all that accurate


finding center of bend is easy. Remember to mark conduit at front of shoe.


----------



## Hippie (May 12, 2011)

jimmy21 said:


> The center of bend changes with the amount of bend. That's why this trick will never be all that accurate


Why? If both bends are the same the centers wont change. I use this method all the time and its very accurate and easy to make matching offsets


----------



## dogleg (Dec 22, 2008)

I use both methods just depending on the situation and which way I feel like using.However if I remember correctly it seems that the multiplier method goes from top of pipe to top of pipe and the straight edge method is the overall (top to bottom)The area where I'm at now(residential) mainly just bending 1/2 and 3/4 emt and can tweak it pretty easy for an accurate fit.


----------



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

ckeely said:


> Some time ago I had a JW teach me a way to bend conduit. It was not the typical Bendfield's technique. He would make a bend, lay it down on a flat surface, and measure the second bend for the offset. Does this sound familiar to any of you master benders out there? I just wanted to refresh this in my skills but just can't seem to remember the steps to do it. Any help would be appreciated!


I've used that method once or twice . I call it the flying by the seat of your pants method . It works , but takes longer and guaranteed you'll be monkeying with it to get it to fit the job . Using degrees and multipliers is easier and more accurate . The straight edge method is good for guys who can't remember the multipliers or look at the bender handle that has all that info usually . It's a matter of preference and what you feel comfortable with really .


----------



## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

drumnut08 said:


> ......look at the bender handle that has all that info usually . .......


After two days, that sticker is usually unreadable.


----------



## eejack (Jul 14, 2012)

jimmy21 said:


> The center of bend changes with the amount of bend. That's why this trick will never be all that accurate


The entire method is inaccurate but accurate enough to be within a eighth or so.

In truth, if you need to be dead balls on, you are doing it another way. You are also spending the time to make certain what you are running on it on is accurate, you are spending extra time on the measurements etc.

It is a quick and dirty method that requires two measurements, no math, no accuracy on the first bend and just a level check on the second bend. It does work on any size conduit and any bender.


----------



## Loose Neutral (Jun 3, 2009)

drumnut08 said:


> I've used that method once or twice . I call it the flying by the seat of your pants method . It works , but takes longer and guaranteed you'll be monkeying with it to get it to fit the job . Using degrees and multipliers is easier and more accurate . The straight edge method is good for guys who can't remember the multipliers or look at the bender handle that has all that info usually . It's a matter of preference and what you feel comfortable with really .


 Sounds like you have no clue.


----------



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

Loose Neutral said:


> Sounds like you have no clue.


Nah , have plenty of clues , no new to get nasty !


----------



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

drumnut08 said:


> Nah , have plenty of clues , no new to get nasty !


Need , that is .


----------



## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

I say use what works. I like knowing all available methods and techniques. If it comes in handy once its worth knowing. I'd seriously doubt anyone could put up as much conduit as me using this straight edge method. Its a one trick pony and only has one real benefit as far as I can see


----------



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

ponyboy said:


> I say use what works. I like knowing all available methods and techniques. If it comes in handy once its worth knowing. I'd seriously doubt anyone could put up as much conduit as me using this straight edge method. Its a one trick pony and only has one real benefit as far as I can see


Yeah , that's basically what I said when " loose neutral " told me I don't have a clue , lol ! Use whatever works for you . I didn't condemn that method . Just stated that's it's not my choice . To each his own !


----------



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

Loose Neutral said:


> Sounds like you have no clue.


Not sure what prompted that comment , but I'll just consider the source . I didn't condemn your method either . Maybe you should take a reading comprehension course before you pass judgement chief ?


----------



## 347sparky (May 14, 2012)

Personally I use the straight line method a lot because I think 30 degree bends are too sharp for offsets of 12" or less. I do use the multiplier on larger offsets, but if I'm pulling the wire I like more gradual, smoother offsets.


----------



## eejack (Jul 14, 2012)

jimmy21 said:


> Why do people say there are charts to memorize? Just memorize the formula. You should already have a calculator handy.
> 
> 1/(sin of angle) x (amount of offset) = distance between bends
> 
> Where these charts come in to play, I'm not sure


The charts are for those of us who do not carry calculators. Most of the time they are unneeded but when you wander away from 15, 22.5, 30 and 45 they come in handy.


----------



## aftershockews (Dec 22, 2012)

I do need to learn the right way so to speak but I was taught different and can bend conduit quite well. I do have a problem with dog legs though.


----------



## dogleg (Dec 22, 2008)

Well not everyone is going to like me ,so I guess your entitled to your own likes and dislikes.


----------



## Loose Neutral (Jun 3, 2009)

drumnut08 said:


> Not sure what prompted that comment , but I'll just consider the source . I didn't condemn your method either . Maybe you should take a reading comprehension course before you pass judgement chief ?


Maybe you should learn to read. You call it a fly by night method. There was 2 legitimate uses for this method posted right above yours. I call it a method that has it's uses and that was taught to me by good journeyman. You also said it's a method for guys who can't remember multipliers. It's not to hard to remember them, charts everywhere in case you can't. Try walking up to the bender i described in my post and using the multiplier method. I Haven't had to use the straight edge method in a while, but it sure came in handy this time and was accurate to an 1/8. Didn't have to monkey it in, it slid right in. Matching offset's, another good time to use this method. It's not a matter of preference, it's a matter of that's what you have to do in some situations and i'm glad I know how Champ.


----------



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

Loose Neutral said:


> Maybe you should learn to read. You call it a fly by night method. There was 2 legitimate uses for this method posted right above yours. I call it a method that has it's uses and that was taught to me by good journeyman. You also said it's a method for guys who can't remember multipliers. It's not to hard to remember them, charts everywhere in case you can't. Try walking up to the bender i described in my post and using the multiplier method. I Haven't had to use the straight edge method in a while, but it sure came in handy this time and was accurate to an 1/8. Didn't have to monkey it in, it slid right in. Matching offset's, another good time to use this method. It's not a matter of preference, it's a matter of that's what you have to do in some situations and i'm glad I know how Champ.


Thanks for setting me straight buddy ! Now I know where I stand with you and vice versa . I'll refrain from how I really feel since you felt the need to bash my post and misconstrue what I meant ! No harm no foul ! Different strokes for different folks , but my 20 + years in the trade has afforded me the knowledge to know a few things , no matter what you think !


----------



## Loose Neutral (Jun 3, 2009)

drumnut08 said:


> Thanks for setting me straight buddy ! Now I know where I stand with you and vice versa . I'll refrain from how I really feel since you felt the need to bash my post and misconstrue what I meant ! No harm no foul ! Different strokes for different folks , but my 20 + years in the trade has afforded me the knowledge to know a few things , no matter what you think !


I didn't say we couldn't be friends, i just didn't agree with your post. Tickle tickle.:blink:


----------



## drumnut08 (Sep 23, 2012)

Loose Neutral said:


> I didn't say we couldn't be friends, i just didn't agree with your post. Tickle tickle.:blink:


No , we're good man ! I'm a lover not a fighter , lol ! Like I said , whatever works best for the individual is the method you should use . There's lots of ways to do everything in our trade and if you find a way that's best for you , by all means , use it . Peace !


----------



## sseivard (Apr 25, 2012)

I have seen miles of rigid put up by finding the center of the bend. It works great with a Chicago bender and if you write down you common bend numbers you can bend the exact same offset first time every time.


----------



## jimmy21 (Mar 31, 2012)

drumnut08 said:


> There's lots of ways to do everything in our trade and if you find a way that's best for you , by all means , use it . Peace !


some ways are just a lot more hack than others


----------



## MaxFuse (Oct 23, 2011)

IMHO Less is better when it comes to angles of offsets/saddles,as long as you have the room,makes it easier to pull.

The center bending technique is especially helpful in building large racks of conduit where the center points have to move in order to maintain paralell.


----------



## Hippie (May 12, 2011)

MaxFuse said:


> IMHO Less is better when it comes to angles of offsets/saddles,as long as you have the room,makes it easier to pull.
> 
> The center bending technique is especially helpful in building large racks of conduit where the center points have to move in order to maintain paralell.


And on that note, what about matching an existing offset? Are you going to get out the protractor to measure the angles, use formulas, etc, when all you have to do is transfer the angle from the existing with your handy folding ruler and center bend it up in 2 minutes?


----------



## Loose Neutral (Jun 3, 2009)

Hippie said:


> And on that note, what about matching an existing offset? Are you going to get out the protractor to measure the angles, use formulas, etc, when all you have to do is transfer the angle from the existing with your handy folding ruler and center bend it up in 2 minutes?


Right on. If you don't know this method and Come across the bender I'm talking about, the one with the piston and the travel rod, your f'd. I guess the guys that don't know it would just be standing there with their thumb up their ass scratching their heads..


----------



## Cherry Hill Bill (Jan 8, 2013)

Loose Neutral said:


> Maybe you should learn to read. You call it a fly by night method. There was 2 legitimate uses for this method posted right above yours. I call it a method that has it's uses and that was taught to me by good journeyman. You also said it's a method for guys who can't remember multipliers. It's not to hard to remember them, charts everywhere in case you can't. Try walking up to the bender i described in my post and using the multiplier method. I Haven't had to use the straight edge method in a while, but it sure came in handy this time and was accurate to an 1/8. Didn't have to monkey it in, it slid right in. Matching offset's, another good time to use this method. It's not a matter of preference, it's a matter of that's what you have to do in some situations and i'm glad I know how Champ.


Are you talking about the one shot bender? Lays on it's side? I used that recently too and I also used the center of bend method. No issues here. :thumbsup:


----------

