# Bathroom Vanity Lights



## Haley (Oct 3, 2017)

Vanity light will not cover old work box. Now what?


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

Haley said:


> Vanity light will not cover old work box. Now what?


I call BS!
No way a vanity light wont cover an old works box!

Texting and Driving


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

We need a pic or it didn't happen!


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## Haley (Oct 3, 2017)

trentonmakes said:


> I call BS!
> No way a vanity light wont cover an old works box!
> 
> Texting and Driving


Maybe,if I take the box back out and slice an eight off one of the ears.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Haley said:


> Vanity light will not cover old work box. Now what?


You need more vanity, buddy.


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## Haley (Oct 3, 2017)

telsa said:


> You need more vanity, buddy.


van·i·ty
ˈvanədē/Submit
noun
1.
excessive pride in or admiration of one's own appearance or achievements.


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## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

You should hook up with this poster and come up with an idea http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/cut-hole-too-big-fixture-base-228145/


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

Next time use a bakelite box or a Carlon Superblue that you cut a 3 5/8" round hole for instead of the full 4" boxes. Either that or use Arlington sconce boxes.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I have had to mount tiger grip single gang boxes before because the high end lights on each side of mirrors where so skinny a round fixture box would not work. Lighting manufacturers don't really give a crap sandwich for codes or even listings for that matter, when it comes to high end , very high priced light fixtures they can sell to rich .


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

In artsy-fartsy high-end residential just STOP cutting in old-work boxes until you know what the fixture will cover.

Crazy %$#@ from Europe// Red China will have 'issues' with coverage// their footprint.

Go into this with your eyes wide open and stop whining. 

There is nothing that the Internet commentariat can do about your assumptions.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

telsa said:


> In artsy-fartsy high-end residential just STOP cutting in old-work boxes until you know what the fixture will cover.
> 
> Crazy %$#@ from Europe// Red China will have 'issues' with coverage// their footprint.
> 
> ...


Good point....
Many times we leave whips hanging or in ceiling to be cut in during the finish.

Texting and Driving


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Is the fixture UL listed. I have seen lights that require a 3" octagon box. That can be a PITA. I try and get the home owner to give me specs before I rough in but that is not always possible.


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## active1 (Dec 29, 2009)

Sometimes an adapter plate may need to be fabricated to fit some of those high end imports.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

trentonmakes said:


> Good point....
> Many times we leave whips hanging or in ceiling to be cut in during the finish.
> 
> Texting and Driving


That too. Even on new construction I don't rough in a box for vanity fixtures. I leave a wavy loop of romex in the wall in the stud bays where side lights or the top center light could be. When the mirror/vanity combo gets picked out I can just zip my 3 5/8" hole saw where they land, reach in through the holes, grab the romex, and pop in an old work box. Never had a problem with an inspector doing that either since there is going to be a vanity light (or lights), we just don't know what it is yet.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

Going_Commando said:


> That too. Even on new construction I don't rough in a box for vanity fixtures. I leave a wavy loop of romex in the wall in the stud bays where side lights or the top center light could be. When the mirror/vanity combo gets picked out I can just zip my 3 5/8" hole saw where they land, reach in through the holes, grab the romex, and pop in an old work box. Never had a problem with an inspector doing that either since there is going to be a vanity light (or lights), we just don't know what it is yet.


I done that same way too but the only major qurik is if the customer do have tile that run from floor to ceiling now that will change the gameplan a little.,,


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## mdnitedrftr (Aug 21, 2013)

telsa said:


> In artsy-fartsy high-end residential just STOP cutting in old-work boxes until you know what the fixture will cover.
> 
> Crazy %$#@ from Europe// Red China will have 'issues' with coverage// their footprint.


Yup.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

Going_Commando said:


> Next time use a bakelite box or a Carlon Superblue that you cut a 3 5/8" round hole for instead of the full 4" boxes. Either that or use Arlington sconce boxes.



THIS!
Just about all lights will cover a 3 1/2ish inch round box. Just drill 3 5/8" holes for the vanity lights. Use the plastic 3 1/2" round old work if you don't hit a stud or a metal 3 1/2" pancake if you do.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

We always bury loops of wire and cut the boxes in later. Never had an issue doing it this way.


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## DoctaPeppa (Oct 13, 2017)

MTW said:


> We always bury loops of wire and cut the boxes in later. Never had an issue doing it this way.


Idk seems greasy. Just find center of the sink and your builders usual height? It's not like it's ever gonna be off to the side.. even with today's flaky hip trends...


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## DoctaPeppa (Oct 13, 2017)

DoctaPeppa said:


> MTW said:
> 
> 
> > We always bury loops of wire and cut the boxes in later. Never had an issue doing it this way.
> ...


Sorry maybe I'm talking outta my ass, haven't touched resi in a few years. Just trying to master commercial which I love. Just what i wouldve used to do though, I used to be a certain builders main electrician till I hated the stress and quit lol. U gotta bug other trades for prints and figure the room out yourself


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

On a bigger job, _demand_ cut sheets , especially if there's a lighting lady, _demand _a layout from GC /PM/Archy as well...

On a smaller job, you may need to be _creative_ 

for instance , who here_ hasn't _been able to C/L a vanity fixture to a sink because the plumbing vent from it is right on the C/L?

~CS~


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

chicken steve said:


> On a bigger job, _demand_ cut sheets , especially if there's a lighting lady, _demand _a layout from GC /PM/Archy as well...
> 
> On a smaller job, you may need to be _creative_
> 
> ...


They always seem to know better around here. The vent never goes on the C/L.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

DoctaPeppa said:


> Idk seems greasy. Just find center of the sink and your builders usual height? It's not like it's ever gonna be off to the side.. even with today's flaky hip trends...


I've done a pile of sconces on either side of the mirror over the years, and customers normally want them at different heights so the light washes their face correctly. I've also seen mirror sizes change 1,000,000 times, vanities randomly bumped off the wall to add shelves or allow room for a towel bar, etc. Then you get to cut your box out, try to re-work ****, etc. Or they add a medicine cabinet after the fact that is surface mounted on the wall, and then you can just zip a hole into the sheetrock, pull our your romex, and zip the fixture into the little box the carpenter makes to sit on top of the medicine cabinet so the fixture actually overhangs the cabinet properly. That's why I leave the big loopty-loop of wire in the wall. When everything is done, zip the holesaw through for whatever fixtures they finally pick out at whatever height the customer wants, and slap it in. New work, old work, it don't matter.


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## trentonmakes (Mar 21, 2017)

Going_Commando said:


> I've done a pile of sconces on either side of the mirror over the years, and customers normally want them at different heights so the light washes their face correctly. I've also seen mirror sizes change 1,000,000 times, vanities randomly bumped off the wall to add shelves or allow room for a towel bar, etc. Then you get to cut your box out, try to re-work ****, etc. Or they add a medicine cabinet after the fact that is surface mounted on the wall, and then you can just zip a hole into the sheetrock, pull our your romex, and zip the fixture into the little box the carpenter makes to sit on top of the medicine cabinet so the fixture actually overhangs the cabinet properly. That's why I leave the big loopty-loop of wire in the wall. When everything is done, zip the holesaw through for whatever fixtures they finally pick out at whatever height the customer wants, and slap it in. New work, old work, it don't matter.


Its not greasy! Its actually...
Easy peesy japaneesy[emoji106]






Texting and Driving


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