# ouellet oacp ceiling heater.



## Hairbone (Feb 16, 2011)

l1 & l2 are your lines.

T1 & T2 are your thermostat wires. If you turn the heater of and check voltage between T1 & T2 you would read 208 or 240V or whatever you have hooked to it. This would confirm the wires for a single pole thermostat.


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## darren79 (Dec 20, 2011)

I am using a low voltage stat, so I ran L1 through the relay and then L2 straight to the load and nothing connect to T1 and T2.

So if I was using a line stat I would run my power to L1 and L2 and then two wires from T1 and T2 to the stat. If I understand it L1 and L2 are strictly for the power and have nothing to do with the stat.

Did you mean if you turn heater on you would get 208 acroos those terminals?

Thinking some more on this, i assume I take my 208V to L1 and L2(with one wire from the relay). From T1 I hook up the wire from the relay labelled L1. Then from T2 I would hook up to the third wire from the relay. Thus with no heat called from there would 0 volts between T1 and T2 and when heat is called for the relay would close and give you 208V across T1 and T2. Or is the idea to break Line 1 between T1 and T2.


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## Hairbone (Feb 16, 2011)

darren79 said:


> I am using a low voltage stat, so I ran L1 through the relay and then L2 straight to the load and nothing connect to T1 and T2.
> 
> So if I was using a line stat I would run my power to L1 and L2 and then two wires from T1 and T2 to the stat. If I understand it L1 and L2 are strictly for the power and have nothing to do with the stat. correct
> 
> ...


You have to be careful with the thermostat you choose as some of these units are not listed for field installed LV thermostats - usually a factory installed option. Checking voltage from t1 & t2 will confirm you are reading 208V through the heater coil and confirm a line voltage single pole thermostat will work. In my install the heating contractor tossed out the instructions and i just cut in an old work box in the adjacent wall and stuck the thermostat in it.


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## Hairbone (Feb 16, 2011)

post the link to the heater cut sheet


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## darren79 (Dec 20, 2011)

Here's the relay
http://www.ouellet.com/line-voltage-relay-specs.aspx?i=83

No real good info on the heater.

I beleive T1 and T2 would be either side of the load. 

I saw T1 and T2 and thought motor leads and never crossed my mind they would be for a thermostat.

L2 would go to one side of the transformer and the load. Black would go to T1 and red would go to T2, thus breaking Line 1 via the relay instead of a line voltage thermostat.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Is the heater setup for an internal T stat. If not there is no reason not to use a Line Voltage T- stat and connect to l1 and l2 from the load side of the stat. T1 and T2 should go to the heater coil.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

See if this helps

Color - Standard: white, almond.
- Optional: metallic silver, bronze, metallic charcoal, textured black, beige-grey,
aluminum, semi-gloss black (upcharge of 10%).
- Custom colors available upon request.
Finish - Standard: epoxy/polyester powder paint.
Voltage - 120V, 208V, 240V/208V, 277V, 347V, 480V, 600V, 1-phase.
Construction - 18-gauge steel front cover.
- High-limit temperature control with automatic reset.
Fan - Factory-lubricated motor (open and ventilated).
- 160 cfm fan (1.5 to 4.8kW; 55.5 dBA), 2 X 160 cfm fan (6 to 8kW; 58.5 dBA).
- Fan delay purges heater of residual heat.
(Any remote thermostat or relay must be connected to the heater control terminal block.)
Heating element - Durable tubular heating element with fins.
Control - 240V control (standard with contactor when needed).
- 24V relay, with or without transformer available.
- Built-in thermostat available.
Note: If an electronic thermostat is used, it must be compatible with forced-air heaters.
Installation - Maximum recommended installation height: 10 ft. (3 m).
- Minimum clearance from adjacent walls: 10 in. (25.4 cm).
- Adaptor for surface mounting available.
- Adaptor for T-Bar ceiling available.
Warranty - 1-year warranty against defects.
Applications - Apartment building, commercial building, drop ceiling, stairwell, garage.


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## Hairbone (Feb 16, 2011)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Is the heater setup for an internal T stat. If not there is no reason not to use a Line Voltage T- stat and connect to l1 and l2 from the load side of the stat. T1 and T2 should go to the heater coil.


 
Dennis, 

If the origonal poster checks the voltage per my post between T1 &T2 they can confirm that a line voltage thermostat is correct for those leads. 

Per the specs you posted it list a purge fan and the heater is set up for the purge fan to operate even with a thermostat being off, therefore connecting a line volatge thermostat to L1 & L2 negates the purpose of the purge function and manufactuers spec. Also it wouldn't work without a jumper between T1 & T2 - or something like that.


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