# Blade to use for hacksaw



## MS_Sparky_352

Hey guys .. What tpi is best for what thickness of conduit ?


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## splatz

MS_Sparky_352 said:


> Hey guys .. What tpi is best for what thickness of conduit ?


The 24tpi and IME a good brand like Lenox makes a huge difference.


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## Southeast Power

I bought some blades that have three different TPI with the 32 in the front, 24 in the middle and 18 near the handle.
They work really well.


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## backstay

Sawzall right, you don't really still use a hacksaw?


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## Chris1971

backstay said:


> Sawzall right, you don't really still use a hacksaw?


:thumbsup:


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## MS_Sparky_352

Chris1971 said:


> backstay said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sawzall right, you don't really still use a hacksaw?
Click to expand...

Nope lol I'm a broke greenie .. I mean a good ole hack saw ?


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## MS_Sparky_352

splatz said:


> MS_Sparky_352 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys .. What tpi is best for what thickness of conduit ?
> 
> 
> 
> The 24tpi and IME a good brand like Lenox makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...

What's IME ?


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## MechanicalDVR

MS_Sparky_352 said:


> What's IME ?


In My Experience


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## MS_Sparky_352

MechanicalDVR said:


> MS_Sparky_352 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's IME ?
> 
> 
> 
> In My Experience
Click to expand...

 ?? thanks


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## MechanicalDVR

Southeast Power said:


> I bought some blades that have three different TPI with the 32 in the front, 24 in the middle and 18 near the handle.
> They work really well.




Tri cut blades, my favorites for a hacksaw:


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## MS_Sparky_352

MS_Sparky_352 said:


> MechanicalDVR said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MS_Sparky_352 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's IME ?
> 
> 
> 
> In My Experience
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ?? thanks
Click to expand...

 those questions were suppose to be thumbs up icons ..


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## MechanicalDVR

MS_Sparky_352 said:


> those questions were suppose to be thumbs up icons ..


No sweat, you're welcome!


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## Southeast Power

Im pretty good with a hacksaw and would be my first choice running small sizes EMT and shallow unistrut.


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## zac

Southeast Power said:


> Im pretty good with a hacksaw and would be my first choice running small sizes EMT and shallow unistrut.


Have you tried the milwaukee m12 bandsaw? 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## HackWork

zac said:


> Have you tried the milwaukee m12 bandsaw?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Winner winner chicken dinner.


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## drewsserviceco

I don't even have a hacksaw frame on the truck. Last one I had hasn't left the shop in 10 years. The M12 bandsaw is the cats meow.


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## Southeast Power

zac said:


> Have you tried the milwaukee m12 bandsaw?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I have one and yes it's nice but, just too much to carry around for small EMT work.
If I'm working out of a cart, I'll take it but, it has its limits.
A hacksaw can cut 2" EMT no problem. I think that 12volt stops at 1-1/4" EMT.

When you get into its working niche, there is nothing better.


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## splatz

I have the M12, it's probably my favorite power tool ever. Coolest little gadget I've ever seen. I'd never cut strut with a hack saw with this thing in the truck, or 1" - 1-1/4". 

For 1/2" and maybe a small amount of 3/4" I'll sometimes not bother to bring it from the truck, a hacksaw is fast enough and fits in a tote. For half inch I have been using a mini hacksaw, it's small enough to fit in a tool pouch or back pocket.


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## Southeast Power

This one.
I've had it for maybe 30 years. I remember paying about $22 for it and that was one hella splurge at the time.


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## hardworkingstiff

Back when I used a hacksaw, 24-32 TPI for EMT, 14-18 TPI for rigid, strut, PVC

I think my hacksaw is 30 years old


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## HackWork

I have a really nice, cool looking Lenox hacksaw that has never been used. It was on the tool list so I had to keep one in my truck. And I put it on my service van, but have no use for it. I can't think of a use either, since I have a sawzall, hackzall, and mini bandsaw.


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## MTW

I can't remember the last time I used a hacksaw. My Hackzall is set up and ready to go at all times.


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## John Valdes

Lennox 32 TPI.


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## cabletie

I would not want to see the look on my bosses face if he saw someone using a hacksaw. I wouldn't blame him if he fired the foreman on the spot for not having enough M12s to go around. M18s start to loose their usefulness. M24, just get the chop saw. 

You can't be bashful about getting tools on the job.


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## 3DDesign

Hack Saw blade teeth point away from the user/handle.
Hack Saw blades should have two teeth in the material they're cutting at all times.


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## telsa

Hacksaws are for when the bandsaw breaks... and the occasional PVC feeder in the dirt.

They are too slow for production.


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## MechanicalDVR

telsa said:


> Hacksaws teach a newbie humility.
> 
> They are always too slow for production work.


Fify!


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## LasVegasJDub86

I guess if it's on the tool list , you gotta have it unfortunately. I can't live without this


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## MTW

Best troll thread ever. What kind of hacksaw blades to use in 2017. :lol:


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## MechanicalDVR

MTW said:


> Best troll thread ever. What kind of hacksaw blades to use in 2017. :lol:


Hey now, I still have hacksaws..........












You'd have to shovel off the dust but I have them.


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## telsa

MechanicalDVR said:


> Fify!


I won't break out my bandsaw for dirt work.

PVC cuts like butter, anyway.

For small PVC, I prefer my old 'cordless DeWalt panel saw.'

It zips through PVC like it's butter. ( 1 1/4" on down ) 

Otherwise, my hacksaw stays on the tool wall// in reserve.


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## MechanicalDVR

telsa said:


> I won't break out my bandsaw for dirt work.
> 
> PVC cuts like butter, anyway.
> 
> For small PVC, I prefer my old 'cordless DeWalt panel saw.'
> 
> It zips through PVC like it's butter. ( 1 1/4" on down )
> 
> Otherwise, my hacksaw stays on the tool wall// in reserve.


I use a cutter for pvc up to 2", way quicker than sawing.


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## HackWork

MechanicalDVR said:


> I use a cutter for pvc up to 2", way quicker than sawing.


That thing is expense. I have the one that does up to 1-1/4". But I never got the 2" one since it's expensive and the sawzall or hackzall cuts right thru it.


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## MechanicalDVR

HackWork said:


> That thing is expense. I have the one that does up to 1-1/4". But I never got the 2" one since it's expensive and the sawzall or hackzall cuts right thru it.


It's quick and easy and doesn't need a battery.


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## HackWork

MechanicalDVR said:


> It's quick and easy and doesn't need a battery.


Yeah, that's why I like the smaller one. I could throw it in a tray with my other tools and fittings when running smaller pipe in the ground or around a house or something like that. 

But with 2" pipe I am usually only working in one spot and already have some type of saw out.


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## MechanicalDVR

HackWork said:


> Yeah, that's why I like the smaller one. I could throw it in a tray with my other tools and fittings when running smaller pipe in the ground or around a house or something like that.
> 
> But with 2" pipe I am usually only working in one spot and already have some type of saw out.


You never run 2" underground?


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## telsa

My DeWalt panel saw cuts small PVC in about .333 seconds... leaving a burr-free pipe.

I have a Klien PVC cutter -- I'm ashamed at what I paid for it.

The speed difference is astounding.

What's really sweet: trimming PVC stubs that are to enter a low set gutter -- all perfectly aligned -- in seconds. You just run the panel saw along like they're bamboo.


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## LasVegasJDub86

telsa said:


> My DeWalt panel saw cuts small PVC in about .333 seconds... leaving a burr-free pipe.
> 
> I have a Klien PVC cutter -- I'm ashamed at what I paid for it.
> 
> The speed difference is astounding.
> 
> What's really sweet: trimming PVC stubs that are to enter a low set gutter -- all perfectly aligned -- in seconds. You just run the panel saw along like they're bamboo.



You talking about this....???


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## LasVegasJDub86

This?


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## telsa

LasVegasJDub86 said:


> You talking about this....???


A DeWalt panel saw is 18 VDC and has a 5.375" blade.

Zing... it's through the PVC.


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## telsa

I use the classic saw only when I'm compelled to work PVC feeder pipes that are already laid and set into a trench.

The other option being sawing a cut-in with string// cord// wire... via friction// heat.


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## MechanicalDVR

telsa said:


> My DeWalt panel saw cuts small PVC in about .333 seconds... leaving a burr-free pipe.
> 
> I have a Klien PVC cutter -- I'm ashamed at what I paid for it.
> 
> The speed difference is astounding.
> 
> What's really sweet: trimming PVC stubs that are to enter a low set gutter -- all perfectly aligned -- in seconds. You just run the panel saw along like they're bamboo.


How does any saw not produce fuzz that needs to be cleaned off?


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## MechanicalDVR

telsa said:


> A DeWalt panel saw is 18 VDC and has a 5.375" blade.
> 
> Zing... it's through the PVC.


Ah, a circular saw.....

I was thinking a handsaw as well!


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## MechanicalDVR

telsa said:


> I use the classic saw only when I'm compelled to work PVC feeder pipes that are already laid and set into a trench.
> 
> The other option being sawing a cut-in with string// cord// wire... via friction// heat.


Theyt make a garrote for that.


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## telsa

MechanicalDVR said:


> How does any saw not produce fuzz that needs to be cleaned off?


The carbide blade is astounding in that regard.

The first time I demo'd this in front of my GF -- ages ago(*) -- he ran out and purchased two DeWalts on the boss's dime... the next day.

He couldn't believe how quick and clean the cuts were.

I will admit that I will de-burr the interior, sometimes, -- but that's just a fetish of mine. It's actually unnecessary.

You don't get the ultra-clean cuts unless you're sporting the carbide blade.

BTW, the weight of that puppy is dreamy. It's no burden on the wrist at all.

(*) I had a connection at the TOP of DeWalt -- one of their vice-presidents. So I was able to get one of the first four-tool kits in 18VDC ever to hit the market. I was an 'early adopter.' I had these puppies before anyone in town. No-one had ever seen the puppy panel saw before. It was that new. 

[ Sawzall, Panel saw, Drill, Goose-neck light ]


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## drewsserviceco

MechanicalDVR said:


> How does any saw not produce fuzz that needs to be cleaned off?



I set up my 10" chop saw when I was doing the equipment room for a car wash. Did everything (power, controls and communications) in PVC to avoid corrosion. Super clean, square cuts. If I wasn't overzealous I wouldn't really have to ream it, but the pencil reamer is so easy to carry and fast to use I couldn't help myself.


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## MS_Sparky_352

MechanicalDVR said:


> telsa said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hacksaws teach a newbie humility.
> 
> They are always too slow for production work.
> 
> 
> 
> Fify!
Click to expand...

Used hacksaw for the first time today .. Talk about humiliating ahaha it's cool though .. Guys gotta good laugh amd i got a great learning experience


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## MS_Sparky_352

3DDesign said:


> Hack Saw blade teeth point away from the user/handle.
> Hack Saw blades should have two teeth in the material they're cutting at all times.


This info came in handy today... The manufacturer mounted the complimentary blade the wrond direction and i recalled this thread and was saved from looking like a total fool .. Thanks


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## MechanicalDVR

telsa said:


> The carbide blade is astounding in that regard.
> 
> The first time I demo'd this in front of my GF -- ages ago(*) -- he ran out and purchased two DeWalts on the boss's dime... the next day.
> 
> He couldn't believe how quick and clean the cuts were.
> 
> I will admit that I will de-burr the interior, sometimes, -- but that's just a fetish of mine. It's actually unnecessary.
> 
> You don't get the ultra-clean cuts unless you're sporting the carbide blade.
> 
> BTW, the weight of that puppy is dreamy. It's no burden on the wrist at all.
> 
> (*) I had a connection at the TOP of DeWalt -- one of their vice-presidents. So I was able to get one of the first four-tool kits in 18VDC ever to hit the market. I was an 'early adopter.' I had these puppies before anyone in town. No-one had ever seen the puppy panel saw before. It was that new.
> 
> [ Sawzall, Panel saw, Drill, Goose-neck light ]




I have one but never thought of cutting tubing with it.

I'd think it could create chip-out as it exited the cut.


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## MechanicalDVR

drewsserviceco said:


> I set up my 10" chop saw when I was doing the equipment room for a car wash. Did everything (power, controls and communications) in PVC to avoid corrosion. Super clean, square cuts. If I wasn't overzealous I wouldn't really have to ream it, but the pencil reamer is so easy to carry and fast to use I couldn't help myself.


What type blade?

Fine tooth?


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## HackWork

MechanicalDVR said:


> You never run 2" underground?


Nope, there's no call for it. Anything that I would normally use 2" for would be bumped up to 2-1/2" or 3" underground.

Plus, for the $125 that the 2" PVC cutter costs, you can buy a Fuel Hackzall and a crapload of blades.


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## MechanicalDVR

MS_Sparky_352 said:


> Used hacksaw for the first time today .. Talk about humiliating ahaha it's cool though .. Guys gotta good laugh amd i got a great learning experience


and a sore elbow for tonight if you cut a lot of material....


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## MS_Sparky_352

MechanicalDVR said:


> MS_Sparky_352 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Used hacksaw for the first time today .. Talk about humiliating ahaha it's cool though .. Guys gotta good laugh amd i got a great learning experience
> 
> 
> 
> and a sore elbow for tonight if you cut a lot of material....
Click to expand...

Nah didnt get far through the material before the guys quit laughing and generously shared their power toys .. I did some research on some recommended portable band saws and it's definitely a near future purchase .. I liked the reviews of the Milaukee M12 but the cutting depth is limited .. What are you using these days


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## MechanicalDVR

MS_Sparky_352 said:


> Nah didnt get far through the material before the guys quit laughing and generously shared their power toys .. I did some research on some recommended portable band saws and it's definitely a near future purchase .. I liked the reviews of the Milaukee M12 but the cutting depth is limited .. What are you using these days


I want the M12 bandsaw, 1 5/8" cut is great for most of what I'd cut.

I have a 18v bandsaw that I use most of the time instead of the deep cut corded model.


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## hardworkingstiff

MS_Sparky_352 said:


> This info came in handy today... The manufacturer mounted the complimentary blade the wrond direction and i recalled this thread and was saved from looking like a total fool .. Thanks


Some blades come with an arrow pointing to the handle which would put the teeth pointing at the handle instead of away from the handle. I've always used a hacksaw with the teeth pointing away from the handle.

In case your interested. http://www.electriciantalk.com/f17/hacksaw-blade-direction-43811/


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## 3DDesign

hardworkingstiff said:


> Some blades come with an arrow pointing to the handle which would put the teeth pointing at the handle instead of away from the handle. I've always used a hacksaw with the teeth pointing away from the handle.


Yes pointing away is the proper orientation. I took hack saw in college.


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## cabletie

I think the biggest safety hazard is using the wrong blade in a chop saw. Chop saws should always have a blade with a zero or negative hook angle. A positive hook angle will pull the stock up into the blade instead of pushing it down to the table. 

http://www.cmtutensili.com/media/files/143_1274_2016_usa_chart_usa.pdf


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## MechanicalDVR

3DDesign said:


> Yes pointing away is the proper orientation. I took hack saw in an *American* college.



Just the opposite in Japan.


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## splatz

The Japanese saws that cut on the pull work very well in wood. They work for the same reason it's easier to pull a rope than it is to push a rope. With a regular saw that cuts on the push, the saw blade has to be beefy and stiff so that it doesn't bend; with a pull saw, the saw isn't trying to bend at all, so you can use a much thinner piece of metal. That means less material removed in the kerf, and a much easier cut. 

Cutting on the pull you have to really have the material pinned down good. 

Cutting metal is totally different. The hacksaw frame maintains tension in the blade, so it isn't going to bind. It will work with the blade either way, I have tried it both ways, I think you can bear down on the material better with the push setup, which will allow for a faster cut, especially with softer stuff like pipe.


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## sparkiez

Don't feel bad about just learning to use a hacksaw. There is more technique to it than people think. I've always used 32 TPI blades almost exclusively for any type of metal. I'll use whatever on PVC.

That being said, I just use a cordless reciprocating saw most of the time anymore, and don't carry a hacksaw. The real downside is that I prefer to use a hacksaw if I'm cutting pipe that still has wire in it that I need to use or fmc.


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## active1

When it comes to hack saws buy the better one.
A cheap saw will fall apart or not provide enough tension on the blade.

The blade likes a good amount of tension.
Less tension causes more blade deflection and and less cutting.
At the end of the day I would release some tension off the blade.
Over time the under tension the blade stretches and looses the tension. 

The other key is you need to hold your material secure.
If the material moves your energy is not cutting.
Wedge it in the bender, agent a ladder or ?? with your knee.
Some jobs guys would make a cutting jig.
Just pound in a few nails on a piece of horizontal wood framing that's on an outside corner. So the nails & wood do most of the conduit holding.

I'll admit the days of the hack saw are about over.
There was a time when I could cut 1/2 or 3/4 EMT as fast or faster than a cordless in a race. If your carrying tools up lots of stairs you may like the hack saw better vs a cordless kit. The blade cost for who ever buys it is low for the hacksaw. You can get a lot of cuts out of one. The sawsall blade some guys destroy or replace a few a day.

The key is practice with the hacksaw. Never seen anyone that could cut well when 1st using it. Medium pressure to get the cut started. Once you have a grove lay into it with downward force on the forward (pushing away from you) cut. And less force on the backstroke (pulling toward you).

Your really at your companies mercy or agreement for what you use.
One of the biggest contractors in Vegas does not use sawsalls, or bandsaws.
Yes to this day hospitals, hotels, and arenas hack saws are still being used here. 
It all chop saw or your hacksaw. While others have cordless tools in about every shape, style, size, and voltage.

Depending on you work agreement if you are to provide your own cordless tools (sorry if you do) I would recommend only a recip saw (sawsall). Plenty of cutting options, but no reason for you to buy. Out of every cutting tool the sawsall can be used well in most tasks.


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## LasVegasJDub86

What is this company your talking about in Vegas, just curious !!?


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## LasVegasJDub86

active1 said:


> When it comes to hack saws buy the better one.
> A cheap saw will fall apart or not provide enough tension on the blade.
> 
> The blade likes a good amount of tension.
> Less tension causes more blade deflection and and less cutting.
> At the end of the day I would release some tension off the blade.
> Over time the under tension the blade stretches and looses the tension.
> 
> The other key is you need to hold your material secure.
> If the material moves your energy is not cutting.
> Wedge it in the bender, agent a ladder or ?? with your knee.
> Some jobs guys would make a cutting jig.
> Just pound in a few nails on a piece of horizontal wood framing that's on an outside corner. So the nails & wood do most of the conduit holding.
> 
> I'll admit the days of the hack saw are about over.
> There was a time when I could cut 1/2 or 3/4 EMT as fast or faster than a cordless in a race. If your carrying tools up lots of stairs you may like the hack saw better vs a cordless kit. The blade cost for who ever buys it is low for the hacksaw. You can get a lot of cuts out of one. The sawsall blade some guys destroy or replace a few a day.
> 
> The key is practice with the hacksaw. Never seen anyone that could cut well when 1st using it. Medium pressure to get the cut started. Once you have a grove lay into it with downward force on the forward (pushing away from you) cut. And less force on the backstroke (pulling toward you).
> 
> Your really at your companies mercy or agreement for what you use.
> One of the biggest contractors in Vegas does not use sawsalls, or bandsaws.
> Yes to this day hospitals, hotels, and arenas hack saws are still being used here.
> It all chop saw or your hacksaw. While others have cordless tools in about every shape, style, size, and voltage.
> 
> Depending on you work agreement if you are to provide your own cordless tools (sorry if you do) I would recommend only a recip saw (sawsall). Plenty of cutting options, but no reason for you to buy. Out of every cutting tool the sawsall can be
> used well in most tasks.



What EC in Vegas ?


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## active1

PM sent to LasVegas.


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