# Reuseable Wagos



## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

You all have probably seen these but if you have or haven't you can still get a free sample.

https://www.wago.com/221/us/


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Lever Nuts!

I love them, and now they are free! 

You keep this up and you may become my BFF again, Dennis :biggrin:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Thanks Dennis, looks good!


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

I ordered the sample last year. They shipped to Canada too :vs_cool:
I got 1-2 port , 1- 3 port , and one 5 port connector.


I liked them, so I ordered a bunch of them.
I especially like them for lighting fixtures (with stranded wires).
I don't feel confident enough to use them on a heavy loaded circuit yet .... I'm just sketchy that way :biggrin:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

emtnut said:


> I ordered the sample last year. They shipped to Canada too :vs_cool:
> I got 1-2 port , 1- 3 port , and one 5 port connector.
> 
> 
> ...


I felt the same way, but I have used them in some situations with large loads and no issues yet.

One of the reasons why I starting using them more for bigger loads is when I found that they actually have a 32A rating, not the 20A that they say on the side. 20A is just the "nominal rating" due to the #12 wire max size. 

The newer models that accept #10 wire have a 41A rating.

I also saw tests on YouTube in which they were abusing them along with wirenuts and they held up just as well.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I felt the same way, but I have used them in some situations with large loads and no issues yet.
> 
> One of the reasons why I starting using them more for bigger loads is when I found that they actually have a 32A rating, not the 20A that they say on the side. 20A is just the "nominal rating" due to the #12 wire max size.
> 
> ...


Baby steps.... baby steps ... I need more time man ! :vs_OMG:

They do really seem to connect well when you push the lever in.
The ratings you posted sound promising.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I felt the same way, but I have used them in some situations with large loads and no issues yet.
> 
> One of the reasons why I starting using them more for bigger loads is when I found that they actually have a 32A rating, not the 20A that they say on the side. 20A is just the "nominal rating" due to the #12 wire max size.
> 
> ...


How do you feel about using Wagos & Lever nuts on motor loads?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Bird dog said:


> How do you feel about using Wagos & Lever nuts on motor loads?


At this point I would not worry at all. Their ratings can easily handle it and they have been in use for a long time now with great results.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

First time I saw this kind of thing was in a recessed fixture. Didn’t know what they were. Cut them off and used wire nuts  .


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Even if you don't care to use wagos, they're great for extending that short wire in the back of a device box.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> First time I saw this kind of thing was in a recessed fixture. Didn’t know what they were. Cut them off and used wire nuts  .


I have never seen a lever nut in a recessed light. Do you mean the standard Wago pushin connector?


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

Yeah... 99 means the standard push in style, they seem to be common on 80% of the fixtures purchased now.

I would like to thank Hack for turning me onto the lever nuts, they are very nice, very nice.


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## MikeFL (Apr 16, 2016)

First time I used Wagos they were inside a manufacturer's cobra head they had sent me to develop a custom dimming timer for their products. Must say I like them very much. Certainly a sign of quality relative to wire nuts. We use wire nuts in products we sell and in kits we package up for customers and one day just may switch to Wagos.


They're $0.24 ea on Amazon Prime if you buy 500 at a time.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Bird dog said:


> Even if you don't care to use wagos, they're great for extending that short wire in the back of a device box.


Yup. They're the ticket. :biggrin:


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I have never seen a lever nut in a recessed light. Do you mean the standard Wago pushin connector?


They were lever nuts or a cheap knock off.


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

emtnut said:


> Baby steps.... baby steps ... I need more time man ! :vs_OMG:
> 
> They do really seem to connect well when you push the lever in.
> The ratings you posted sound promising.


I went through their booth at a trade show a while back. I didn't know they did so many different products right through PLCs and power supplies. Anyway, they have din mount lever clamp style blocks rated up to 125A.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

Thanks Dennis for posting that and I will plan to order it and try that updated verison of that wago lever and look better than the oringal one is. 

Yuh it nice so I can hit #10 conductors sizes to make it easier to deal with it.

If they pass my test then I will able order a bunch of it. the best place I can use the wago lever is the luminaire that will make my task more easier.


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

I'm also looking forward to trying out the din mounting carrier....looks like it may be a good solution for additions in tight cabinets.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

stuiec said:


> I went through their booth at a trade show a while back. I didn't know they did so many different products right through PLCs and power supplies. Anyway, they have din mount lever clamp style blocks rated up to 125A.


Ya got any link or info related to that item when ya posted on that ? 

I been thinking of that item may come very handy in few spots what I know of.


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

frenchelectrican said:


> Ya got any link or info related to that item when ya posted on that ?
> 
> I been thinking of that item may come very handy in few spots what I know of.


https://www.wago.com/global/c/insta..._1_54:125.0:Bemessungsstrom_1_54:140.0&page=0


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

stuiec.,

Thanks for the link on that and I have see different verison but seems it is more promising for me for that item I been looking for. 

I will concant them and see what I can order it and try it out. 

Again., thanks for the link.


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

I have @HackWork to thank as well for introducing me to these little doodads.

I got my free samples last year around the same time as E-nut. 

Nice stuff.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

I wish I had them in my early years. I have not used the lever nuts. Only the push in Wago's.
Every wirenut I twisted in my whole life has been with my hands. Not good.
The industry has improved big time. Evolved.


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## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

emtnut said:


> I ordered the sample last year. They shipped to Canada too :vs_cool:
> I got 1-2 port , 1- 3 port , and one 5 port connector.
> 
> 
> ...



I got six different ones some for a larger gauge wire.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Looks expensive...


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## stuiec (Sep 25, 2010)

sbrn33 said:


> Looks expensive...


I thought you liked fancy.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> Looks expensive...


They make up for their price in speed. Even if they didn't, they are worth it in many situations to save frustration.

Just one example of where they really work well is putting lights up. Whether it be ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, or even lamppost heads. You simply let the wires hang down from the ceiling (or wall, or pole) ready to go, then you put the lever nuts on the ends of the fixture wires. How you hold the light with 1 hand and clip the lever nuts onto the romex wires with the other hand. That's it, you're done. 2 seconds later the light is up. No more trying to hold the light while needing both hands to install wirenuts. 

You will find many instances like this in which lever nuts work great.


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## TGGT (Oct 28, 2012)

emtnut said:


> I ordered the sample last year. They shipped to Canada too :vs_cool:
> I got 1-2 port , 1- 3 port , and one 5 port connector.
> 
> 
> ...


I watched a video where a guy overloaded a circuit until the plastic on the wago melted off. The metal clamping the wires held true until he physically broke them off. He sent like 800 Amps or something crazy high through them. Satisfied my doubts, anyway.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Do I have to strip the wires?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

sbrn33 said:


> Do I have to strip the wires?


Of course.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

electricguy said:


> I got six different ones some for a larger gauge wire.


WTF ??? The bastids only sent me 3 :vs_mad::vs_mad:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

emtnut said:


> WTF ??? The bastids only sent me 3 :vs_mad::vs_mad:


This new offer that Dennis posted probably comes with 6, 3 of the old models and 3 of the newer ones that do #10.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

Signal1 said:


> I have @*HackWork* to thank as well for introducing me to these little doodads.
> 
> I got my free samples last year around the same time as E-nut.
> 
> Nice stuff.


Signal... did you get gyped like me and only got 3 ??

Or are you on the "let's send this guy 6 of 'em list" ?? :vs_mad:


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

emtnut said:


> Signal... did you get gyped like me and only got 3 ??
> 
> Or are you on the "let's send this guy 6 of 'em list" ?? :vs_mad:


Gyped.

1- 2 port, 1- 3 port, 1- 4 port. 

I liked them though and bought the 100 pack of 2 port ones.

They are also nice for troubleshooting too. They have a test port that you fit your meter lead in without taking the splice apart, if you need to isolate something, you can just unclip a wire, do what you need, and put it back together easily without twisting.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Signal1 said:


> Gyped.
> 
> 1- 2 port, 1- 3 port, 1- 4 port.
> 
> ...


I believe you mean 5-port.

I wish they made a 4-port. I would use it all the time. I'd like it to be stacked, 2 with the levers facing one way and the other 2 with the levers facing the other way. This would be square shaped and a similar size to a typical wirenut and fit nicely into boxes.

Speaking of testing, they work great for when you need to connect and disconnect things during testing or troubleshooting. Such as troubleshooting 3-way switch wiring that the stupid homeowner screwed up.


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

electricguy said:


> I got six different ones some for a larger gauge wire.





Signal1 said:


> Gyped.
> 
> 1- 2 port, 1- 3 port, 1- 4 port.
> 
> ...


I liked them too. I guess you and I don't rate thou :sad:

I don't like Electricguy anymore :vs_smirk:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I don't think they made the #10 models when you guys got the offer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I don't think they made the #10 models when you guys got the offer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Doesn't matter ... I'm still butt-hurt :vs_mad:


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## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

HackWork said:


> I believe you mean 5-port.
> 
> I wish they made a 4-port. I would use it all the time. I'd like it to be stacked, 2 with the levers facing one way and the other 2 with the levers facing the other way. This would be square shaped and a similar size to a typical wirenut and fit nicely into boxes.
> 
> Speaking of testing, they work great for when you need to connect and disconnect things during testing or troubleshooting. Such as troubleshooting 3-way switch wiring that the stupid homeowner screwed up.


Yes it is a 5 port.

I like this idea though. It would make a nice compact connector.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Signal1 said:


> Yes it is a 5 port.
> 
> I like this idea though. It would make a nice compact connector.


The reason I asked about the 4-port is because they do make them, but not for our country. If you look closely, you can see the 32A rating on the side where our's say 20A:


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

HackWork said:


> They make up for their price in speed. Even if they didn't, they are worth it in many situations to save frustration.
> 
> Just one example of where they really work well is putting lights up. Whether it be ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, or even lamppost heads. You simply let the wires hang down from the ceiling (or wall, or pole) ready to go, then you put the lever nuts on the ends of the fixture wires. How you hold the light with 1 hand and clip the lever nuts onto the romex wires with the other hand. That's it, you're done. 2 seconds later the light is up. No more trying to hold the light while needing both hands to install wirenuts.
> 
> You will find many instances like this in which lever nuts work great.



And here is a fact: The manufacturer's follow Hax. I know this because a sensor light I hung a few weeks back had lever nuts attached to the wires when I opened the box. They are watching us................... :glasses:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Ever since I had a hand injury, I've been using the 222 series of lever nuts everywhere I can because I have some trouble doing up a traditional wire nut properly. The 221 series is something I have not seen before, but I'm going to check them out because they go up to #10 (the 222's only go up to #12). The 222's hold up very well in motor applications, so I have high hopes for the 221's to do equally well on #10 motor leads when I try them out. The new compact size and see-through connector appeals to me.


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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

MDShunk said:


> Ever since I had a hand injury, I've been using the 222 series of lever nuts everywhere I can because I have some trouble doing up a traditional wire nut properly. The 221 series is something I have not seen before, but I'm going to check them out because they go up to #10 (the 222's only go up to #12). The 222's hold up very well in motor applications, so I have high hopes for the 221's to do equally well on #10 motor leads when I try them out. The new compact size and see-through connector appeals to me.


This is the #1 reason for me making the switch away from wire nuts, I just can't make them up like I used to. I broke my index fingers knuckle and I can't make a good connection anymore, without using a set of pliers to twist the nut on (Or one of those drill attachment tools). But then getting it back off if needed sucks just as bad.

The levers... I like that. Still can't open them with my index finger on my right hand, but it's easy enough to pop them open with my middle finger.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> Ever since I had a hand injury, I've been using the 222 series of lever nuts everywhere I can because I have some trouble doing up a traditional wire nut properly. The 221 series is something I have not seen before, but I'm going to check them out because they go up to #10 (the 222's only go up to #12). The 222's hold up very well in motor applications, so I have high hopes for the 221's to do equally well on #10 motor leads when I try them out. The new compact size and see-through connector appeals to me.


The 221's are great. They are much smaller and being able to see that the wire is fully inserted helps a lot. 

I haven't used the newer models that accept up to #10, I have only seen them on Amazon just now for almost double the price of the ones that do #12. Also, the ones that do #10 must be bigger, which goes against the point of the 221 line being smaller than the 222. 

The standard 221's are the 221-41x line while the ones that accept #10 are the 221-61x line. 

I used to buy them from here: https://www.onlineelec.com/parts/wago/push-wire-connector/

But I find them cheaper on Amazon now, with no minimum order.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I haven't got the new larger Wagos yet, I'll keep some around for working on electric heat. One of the things I hate the most is making connections to #10 solid in a box where the wire is so short it doesn't even come out past the box, and you know it's going to be heavily loaded. At this point I am confident in the product and satisfied that the lever nut will be a better connection than a fumbling wire nut connection on a tiny stub of wire. 

BTW, with hand injuries, making wire nuts easier on the hands and fingers - I have tried a number of gadgets and the most useful has been a 5/16" racheting wrench, it's just the right size for tan twisters. I think that Dottie wire nut socket in a wrench rather than on a driver might be the best thing, but I have not tried that yet.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

MDShunk said:


> Ever since I had a hand injury, I've been using the 222 series of lever nuts everywhere I can because I have some trouble doing up a traditional wire nut properly. The 221 series is something I have not seen before, but I'm going to check them out because they go up to #10 (the 222's only go up to #12). The 222's hold up very well in motor applications, so I have high hopes for the 221's to do equally well on #10 motor leads when I try them out. The new compact size and see-through connector appeals to me.


What voltage motors do you use these on? I was thinking about it, but it looks like they are 450v rated?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Going_Commando said:


> What voltage motors do you use these on? I was thinking about it, but it looks like they are 450v rated?


I see that now. That wouldn't really work for me then. Most everything is 480. Although their 450 volt rating might be metric volts. I'm not sure what that would be in Imperial Volts. :wink:


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

MDShunk said:


> I see that now. That wouldn't really work for me then. Most everything is 480. Although their 450 volt rating might be metric volts. I'm not sure what that would be in Imperial Volts. :wink:


It's really unfortunate. Those things would be great for small hp conveyor motors and such. We have been doing so much 480v stuff for the past year or so that I can't recall the last motor I hooked up at 208v. Crazy. 

I did find out the older style 2-hole lever nuts won't fit through the fixture bar for pendant mounted Lithonia emergency lights. I changed out 20 something in a store over the summer and was pumped to try them out, but alas, no fit. Had to use orange wirenuts.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Going_Commando said:


> What voltage motors do you use these on? I was thinking about it, but it looks like they are 450v rated?





MDShunk said:


> I see that now. That wouldn't really work for me then. Most everything is 480. Although their 450 volt rating might be metric volts. I'm not sure what that would be in Imperial Volts. :wink:


Hard to believe the Wago people didn't think of this, why would you make a product rated for 450V?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

If you look at the picture on the last page, you will see that the ones used in Europe that are the same exact thing but use different labelling state 250V. 

So the US ones say 20A and 450V while the European ones say 32A and 250V.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

HackWork said:


> If you look at the picture on the last page, you will see that the ones used in Europe that are the same exact thing but use different labelling state 250V.
> 
> So the US ones say 20A and 450V while the European ones say 32A and 250V.


Pretty dumb, really. Why not just keep the 250V rating? Seems nuts that I can use Wagos on a Euro 415V machine in the states, but the Euros can't use the same connector in Euroland.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Going_Commando said:


> Pretty dumb, really. Why not just keep the 250V rating? Seems nuts that I can use Wagos on a Euro 415V machine in the states, but the Euros can't use the same connector in Euroland.


I assume it has to do with them adhering to our standards.

Like the way our's have a 20A rating because that is what the maximum wire size (#12) can generally handle here, while in Europe they can do 32A.

Maybe it was a listing thing in which it was easier to get listed with those lower ratings? Bureaucracy.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

HackWork said:


> I assume it has to do with them adhering to our standards.
> 
> Like the way our's have a 20A rating because that is what the maximum wire size (#12) can generally handle here, while in Europe they can do 32A.
> 
> Maybe it was a listing thing in which it was easier to get listed with those lower ratings? Bureaucracy.


They may have felt 480v might be cost prohibitive for the end user or only the US would need a 480v rating & economies of scale go down.


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

*Old School*



Dennis Alwon said:


> You all have probably seen these but if you have or haven't you can still get a free sample.
> 
> https://www.wago.com/221/us/



I have encountered so many problems with stab-in terminals on receptacle that I am always leery of quick-wire connectors. Old electricians are doomed to be old school I guess.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

jelhill said:


> I have encountered so many problems with stab-in terminals on receptacle that I am always leery of quick-wire connectors. Old electricians are doomed to be old school I guess.


I have been doing service for 30 years. In real life I have encountered more bad screwed connections than bad stab ins. That being said I have only backstabbed a dozen times or so.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

jelhill said:


> I have encountered so many problems with stab-in terminals on receptacle that I am always leery of quick-wire connectors. Old electricians are doomed to be old school I guess.


 I can see your point. But, when this problem was encountered wasn't the home so old that it needed to have maybe a new service, replace panels or a rewire? You can't expect residential grade to last as long as spec grade.
Also, there are things that we may do at work that we would not do to our homes (I would pigtail all the receptacles, so, the ckt current doesn't go through the break away tab between the screws).


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

jelhill said:


> I have encountered so many problems with stab-in terminals on receptacle that I am always leery of quick-wire connectors. Old electricians are doomed to be old school I guess.


Standard push-in wago connectors as well as lever nuts use a different method of clamping and contacting the wire. It’s not the same as a backstab.


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## jelhill (Nov 11, 2018)

Bird dog said:


> I can see your point. But, when this problem was encountered wasn't the home so old that it needed to have maybe a new service, replace panels or a rewire? You can't expect residential grade to last as long as spec grade.
> Also, there are things that we may do at work that we would not do to our homes (I would pigtail all the receptacles, so, the ckt current doesn't go through the break away tab between the screws).


I would say about 60% of the time it was an old home. A friend called me who has a condo that was built around 2003, and whoever wired it did not pigtail any of the receptacles... wired through all of them. It took a while to find out why half of his living room was dead.... yet again, the culprit was a stab-connection. I have totally lost count how many times I have encountered that.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I won't use stab connections, but the lever nuts are a horse of another color. They're a cam action. Pressure wise, substantially equivalent to a screwed connection.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> I won't use stab connections, but the lever nuts are a horse of another color. They're a cam action. Pressure wise, substantially equivalent to a screwed connection.


AFAIK, they use the same spring pressure cage clamp that the typical Wago push-in connectors use. The only difference is that the lever opens that clamp allowing you to insert the conductor easier.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

HackWork said:


> AFAIK, they use the same spring pressure cage clamp that the typical Wago push-in connectors use. The only difference is that the lever opens that clamp allowing you to insert the conductor easier.


You're right, but the spring pressure is miles more on the lever nuts. 

For those having trouble opening them, there's an opening tool. Wago part number 210-101 for the regular lever nuts and 210-102 for these new fancy clear ones. It's a spendy tool, but I use it on the 3 and 4 port ones pretty regularly. I generally open more than I need before I roll out on a job where I'll be using them.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> You're right, but the spring pressure is miles more on the lever nuts.
> 
> For those having trouble opening them, there's an opening tool. Wago part number 210-101 for the regular lever nuts and 210-102 for these new fancy clear ones. It's a spendy tool, but I use it on the 3 and 4 port ones pretty regularly. I generally open more than I need before I roll out on a job where I'll be using them.


Wow, that's insane, $170! :vs_laugh:

I don't have a problem opening them, at least not yet. And I don't like to open them early because that's the best way to snap the lever onto your finger, which hurts :sad:

Also, and this is just my OCD, but I don't like having them opened longer than I have to because I feel that it is weakening the spring. I know, I know, crazy talk. :biggrin:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

HackWork said:


> Wow, that's insane, $170! :vs_laugh:


Yes, spendy, but it's easy for me to spend other people's money now. 



HackWork said:


> I don't have a problem opening them, at least not yet. And I don't like to open them early because that's the best way to snap the lever onto your finger, which hurts :sad:


Haven't had that experience yet. Maybe you're just clumsy? :biggrin:



HackWork said:


> Also, and this is just my OCD, but I don't like having them opened longer than I have to because I feel that it is weakening the spring. I know, I know, crazy talk. :biggrin:


I share that concern, but it hasn't really been validated.


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## The_Modifier (Oct 24, 2009)

HackWork said:


> You keep this up and you may become my BFF again, Dennis :biggrin:


Oh really? Well you Canadian passport I just made you is now up for sale!


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

The_Modifier said:


> Oh really? Well you Canadian passport I just made you is now up for sale!


No buddy, I am still going to come and live in your basement. :biggrin:


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

I know someone mention about the voltage rating on the wago and yuh I am aware due I have both 400 and 480 system here and with 400 I have no issues with it but 480 I kinda flirting for arc flash if not prepared correct so ya have to pay attention to excat number of MM of sheating to strip it. 

Otherwise anything else it work as I expected to. 

I do get both American and European spec wagos but Americian specs it little easier to use the levers but otherwise both look simauir.


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## sparkiez (Aug 1, 2015)

I fell in love with these when I went to close a lever, it hit the tip of my fingernail, and I about bit my tongue off. They make a pretty solid connection.


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

Going_Commando said:


> What voltage motors do you use these on? I was thinking about it, but it looks like they are 450v rated?





MDShunk said:


> I see that now. That wouldn't really work for me then. Most everything is 480. Although their 450 volt rating might be metric volts. I'm not sure what that would be in Imperial Volts. :wink:


I know this is an older thread but I thought I might chime in. I use these all the time on 480 volt motors with no issue. The 221's are labeled 450v IEC/EN on the nut it self, but if you go to the UL listing on their web site they are listed for 600 volts per UL 1059 :biggrin:


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