# Awesome GFCI tester.



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

This is a tool that I wish I had a few of. I borrow it from a guy from time to time. It is a GFCI tester that does several things. You can plug a suspect appliance into it, and it will give you the leakage current of the appliance. You can also plug this device into a suspect bad GFCI, and "dial in" the trip current, to see where it trips. It's an awesome GFCI tester. If anyone knows who might still make these (says Slater, but I'm sure they're not the OEM), let me know. This particular tester was purchased in the early 80's.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Here's another pic where I'm testing the the leakage current of the typical "traffic light" GFCI testers that we normally use. I plugged it into the fancy borrowed GFCI tester to see what these peak out at. As you can see in the pic, mine puts an 8ma load on the circuit.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I think I just found the patent for this: http://www.google.com/patents?vid=USPAT3878458&id=E7gvAAAAEBAJ&printsec=drawing&zoom=4#PPP1,M1


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

The closest thing I've been able to find is this tool from Megger... http://www.megger.com/common/documents/TOOL_APPL_TESTER_DS_en_V10.pdf 
It costs about 5 grand.


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## faber307 (Jan 22, 2007)

That is a sweet little tester. The Megger unit I'm sure is expensive.
I use a Greenlee DVC-10 for testing GFCIs. I don't know what ma. 

http://electricalsupplies4less.stores.yahoo.net/digeltes.html

I'm on my 4th unit and now they're discontinued. I really like it.


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

That is a pretty slick tool MD. It's a wonder why when a tool is perfected it's no longer made. Perhaps megger bought them out and realized what tool like that is worth(not worth 5k though)

It also points out that the neon testers are pretty accurate for testing a gfi


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## frank (Feb 6, 2007)

Here is the Residual Current Device (GFI) to you USA Electricians, that I use.
Digital display tests 3 types of GFI and Circuit breaker characteristics at half test current. One times test current and five times test current. It tests in ranges of 10mA to 500mA and gives the trip time as a fixed figure on the display. Costs about £275 - 00 ($500). BUT. It is made by Megger but I got it cheaper because it carries the wholsesalers 'in house name'. Cute eh!
Just for fun I will put other instruments on the next page so can see how things may differ.

Frank Doncaster England.


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## frank (Feb 6, 2007)

THis is the Earth Lop Impedance tester I use. Again it is digital display and tests for polarity and Earth Loop (ground I think you sometimes say) on 2 levels.

1. TT (Stands for Terra- Terra. (some Latin Thing) Or for us simple minded a ground earth electrode only loop test. Looking for a test of 100 ohms or less.

2. TN. (Stands for Terra Neutral) or more simply live to earth.Looking for a test of 20 ohms or less. Having said that if I did not get some 0.somthing ohms figure I would not switch on myself???????.

Frank Doncaster England.


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## frank (Feb 6, 2007)

Insulation and continuity tester,Best such instrunent I ever bought, And I've bought lots. usually 'cos I leave them on site or under machinery.

Tests continuity 0.00 to 10 ohms.at 25 volts.dc

Tests at 250 volts.500volts and 1000 volts dc for insulation resistance from 10 ohms to infinity. Also audible continuity sounder. Voltage range indicator, ac or dc application back lit digital screen and test value fixed screen feature. Cheap too. I paid £140 - 00 ($220) But with the dollar rate poor at the moment it may sound expensive. I guess for a proper calculation you could say the £30 - 00 ($55) equals an hours work at current rates.


Frank. Doncaster England.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Thanks, Frank. I appreciate seeing the equipment you all use there. That insulation and continuity tester looks fantastic for the price. The one I use is a little different, but I use it pretty hard too. Yours is nicer, though. Could you post the brand and model of that insulation tester? (we call an insulation tester simply a "megger" in the US, even though Megger is a brand name)

That RCD tester is cool too. It won't be long, and we'll have GFCI mains too. I'm surprised we don't already. I see yours has a 6 and a 30 ma trip option. That's nice. Our GFCI protection for people are supposed to trip at 6ma and GFCI for protection of equipment and our new AFCI breakers both trip at 30ma.


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## frank (Feb 6, 2007)

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Technical Specification



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*IR800*









*Hand-Held Insulation Tester*

The *IR800* is the latest hand – held, battery operated insulation tester incorporating resistance and continuity ranges from the Seaward range. Once again the Seward range offers a number of unique features, including voltage measurements up to 1000AC or DC, a dual safety rating, extensive and a unique robustness, which provides a unique and safer feel.

*IR800* is an Electrical Insulation Tester and performs the following measurements:​
Insulation Resistance from 0.001MW to 2000MW.​
Low resistance, up to 20W, with a resolution of 0.01W, to meet Part 4 of EN61557.​
Resistance, with short/open beeper actuated below 30Win a 2000W range.​
Voltage measurement up to 1000V AC or DC​
*Customer Comments*

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<LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">Regulation Compliance – EN61557 and EN1010 standards. Also, Safety, Environmental and EMC requirements. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">Rotary Knob – to select:Insulation Resistance, Continuity, Resistance, Voltage, Battery Check. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">Meets requirements of EN61557-4. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">Resistance Function – When the unit is placed on ‘Ohms’, the initial mode will be a 2000Ohm range, with short/open bleeper for resistances 30 Ohms. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">Battery Life is presented on the primary display as a percentage. It is checked using simulated load condition per EN61557. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">A simple to use, multiple use, lock button is located on the front of the unit. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">A unique backlight is part of the LCD display and has an on/off button. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">The tester will auto shut off after 10 minutes, or 30 minutes under locked conditions. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">The tester will ‘wake-up’ following a number of commands. <LI class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt">A beeper is incorporated to let the user know of several conditions during operation, including: detection of voltage AC or DC, the lock feature is activated, a Short/Open beeper will sound during resistance testing when selected and, a single beep will sound during a Test Lead Zero sequence. 
A ‘Lightening strike’ icon blinks on the display when voltages 30V AC/DC are detected at the inputs in any function.
 
*Downloads*

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IR800 Specification



*Technical Specification*

*Insulation Resistance
*

Auto Ranges: 2.000MW, 20.00MW, 200.0MW, 2000MW
Resolution: 0.001MW on 2.000MW range max
Accuracy: 2% + digits, 2.000MW, 20.00MW, 200.0MW range
Analog Bar Graph: 0 to 1 GW, and infinity
Bar Graph Accuracy: 10%
Test Voltage: 250V; 500V; 1000V
Accuracy: +20% - 0%
Nominal Current: 1mA minimum per EN 61557
Input Protection: 1000V
Voltage Sensing: 0 to 1000V AC/DC to 400 Hz
Audible/ Visable Warning: 30 V AC or DC at inputs
Circuitry protection: Inhibited if 3oV AC or DC at inputs

*Continuity
* 
Accuracy: 2% + 2 counts
Resolution: 0.01W
Open Circuit Test Voltage: 4V DC nominal
Test Current: 200mA, 0 to 2W
Input protection: 1000v
Circuitry Protection: Inhibited if 30 AC or DC inputs
Accuracy: 5% + 2 counts

*Resolution*

Resolution: 1W
Test Current: 25mA nominal
Input Protection: 1000V
Voltage sensing: 0 to 100 V AC/DC to 400 Hz
Accuracy: 2% + 2 counts
Audible/Visible Warning: 30 V AC or DC inputs


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## frank (Feb 6, 2007)

JD.

Sorry about the garbage that came with the posted item. But you may get better info from the Manufacturers site.
As regards the RCD (GFI) tester.
The 6 mA level is set for agricultural trip levels, 30mA for folks. Seems our regulation setters feel we need to take greater care of a barn full of cows than a house full of folks.

6mA is used also for public baths and pools also.

We do have local RCD sockets like yourself but regulations require mains Incomer GFI protection where there is a likelyhood of the use of an internal socket being used for an external cord, or other designated areas. So as a general rule GFI is installed to cover ALL power supply's but lighting and other designated circuits are excempt and so fitted to a Non GFI section within the same bus bar on the Dist' Board. Such a board is called a 'split board' and ensures that if the GFI incomer does fail safe there are still other essential circuits available.

The regs can get pretty messy but after a while you figure them out.

Another feature you have that we don't is a socket in a bathroom or shower room. These are not allowed. Although a Shaver Point is if it has an isolated transformer output. Fans have to be 12 volt fully isolated in a shower cubicle and a local switch to a wall has to be well out of reach or more generally - fitted outside the bathroom or a ceiling mounted pull switch.

As a note of interest I get to the USA twice yearly. May and September for 3 weeks each period. Have done so for the past 15 years. So when there I take a busmans holiday and spend my time looking up at the ceiling of supermarkets and such instead of taking in the sights. Being a 'sparky' is much more fun than sunning on a beach, Well--almost.


Frank. Doncaster England.


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## frank (Feb 6, 2007)

JD

Forgot to mention. Click on any Red or Blue link to access the manufacterers info.

Frank


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## DeepOne (Jan 23, 2007)

Another old good "megger" / insulation tester. Made in 1967. Simple, but very reliable, no battery need, tottally ball bearing in rolling parts. Ranged 250/500V, 1MOm/500MOm.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Thanks for the information, Frank. I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one looking up, scrutinizing the electricals everywhere I go. It's a disease, I'm sure. :jester: 

DeepOne.... that's the megger I remember from high school. Thank you for the picture.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

MDShunk said:


> This is a tool that I wish I had a few of. I borrow it from a guy from time to time. It is a GFCI tester that does several things. You can plug a suspect appliance into it, and it will give you the leakage current of the appliance. You can also plug this device into a suspect bad GFCI, and "dial in" the trip current, to see where it trips. It's an awesome GFCI tester. If anyone knows who might still make these (says Slater, but I'm sure they're not the OEM), let me know. This particular tester was purchased in the early 80's.


i have one of these testers and i love it. i dont think anyone makes them anymore i wish they did im actually afraid of breaking it


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## wptski (Jun 30, 2008)

OMG! I'd love to post a link to this thread in a another well known forum where they think the "only" approved way to test a GFCI is press its own test button and there's "no" such thing as a GFCI tester or at least that's the way they all think now!


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

wptski said:


> OMG! I'd love to post a link to this thread in a another well known forum where they think the "only" approved way to test a GFCI is press its own test button and there's "no" such thing as a GFCI tester or at least that's the way they all think now!


 
Maybe Slater will spring alive and invent an AFCI tester everyone can agree with:lol:


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## KayJay (Jan 20, 2008)

I still have one of these *much less awsome* older Leviton GFCI testers. It’s more like a standard receptacle tester, just with 3 extra GFCI trip test levels of 1, 2 and 3 mA. 
It is supposed to help find overly sensitive GFCI’s that are nuisance tripping. 
Has no leakage current function though.
No longer in production either, but no real great loss. You can still find them on ebay every now and then.


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## Resiguy (Dec 5, 2007)

*Kill A Watt*

Here you go...

http://www.p3international.com/products/special/P4400/P4400-CE.html


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

wptski said:


> OMG! I'd love to post a link to this thread in a another well known forum where they think the "only" approved way to test a GFCI is press its own test button and there's "no" such thing as a GFCI tester or at least that's the way they all think now!


The only way approved by the manufacturers to test a GFCI is by pressing the "test" button on the device.

If you think about the circuitry inside the device you would realize there is no way a seperate tester can prove the GFCI is working properly if the GFCI is being used to replace a 2 wire receptacle (no ground)

Sorry to put the extinguisher on your flame war, but the people in the other forum are right.

-joe


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## wptski (Jun 30, 2008)

Joe Momma said:


> The only way approved by the manufacturers to test a GFCI is by pressing the "test" button on the device.
> 
> If you think about the circuitry inside the device you would realize there is no way a seperate tester can prove the GFCI is working properly if the GFCI is being used to replace a 2 wire receptacle (no ground)
> 
> ...


The reason for the comment to a rather old post was becasue the poster also is/was a member of "that" other forum. I know about the GFCI circuitry.


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

Resiguy said:


> Here you go...
> 
> http://www.p3international.com/products/special/P4400/P4400-CE.html


This meter from Kill-a-Watt does not measure leakage current like the meter pictured above from MDshunk.
Leakage current is the current within an appliance that's bleeding off to ground which would trip a GFI.
This kill-a-watt device is just an amp meter that records


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

wptski said:


> The reason for the comment to a rather old post was becasue the poster also is/was a member of "that" other forum. I know about the GFCI circuitry.


Oh, I get it

Is the other guy MDshunk? Flame on, haha :laughing:


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## gilbequick (Oct 6, 2007)

Joe Momma said:


> The only way approved by the manufacturers to test a GFCI is by pressing the "test" button on the device.
> 
> If you think about the circuitry inside the device you would realize there is no way a seperate tester can prove the GFCI is working properly if the GFCI is being used to replace a 2 wire receptacle (no ground)
> 
> ...


The Ideal Suretest testers give you a precise measurement of how much leakage current it takes to test the GFCI to ensure it is tripping at the proper mA. How is there no way a separate tester can check a GFCI's' trip value?


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## Joe Momma (Jan 23, 2007)

A seperate tester shorts the hot to the ground through a resistor, so if no ground is present the device won't test.
But inside the device the resistor taps off the hot after the CT to the neutral before the CT.


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## Norcal (Mar 22, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> This is a tool that I wish I had a few of. I borrow it from a guy from time to time. It is a GFCI tester that does several things. You can plug a suspect appliance into it, and it will give you the leakage current of the appliance. You can also plug this device into a suspect bad GFCI, and "dial in" the trip current, to see where it trips. It's an awesome GFCI tester. If anyone knows who might still make these (says Slater, but I'm sure they're not the OEM), let me know. This particular tester was purchased in the early 80's.


Have 2 of the same thing except they are I-T-E IMPERIAL CORP.
Other then branding they are exactly the same.

I-T-E IMPERIAL CORP. was bought by Gould Inc. in April 1976 (Just to give a rough idea of it's vintage).


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