# Residential Must Have Tools



## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

A good tester like the Fluke T+ Pro is an essential in my mind.


----------



## ElectricMon (Jan 17, 2018)

Nc tester
Hammer a real one 
Gloves that are light enough to work with but not to thin so you don't pinch your fingers stapling 
romex strippers
A long beater screwdriver to use as a chisel 
Keyhole saw
Running shoes or sneakers
A stud finder 
An offset whirlydoodle cabinet tip screwdriver


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Take a look here:

http://www.electriciantalk.com/f14/union-j-mans-tool-list-158122/

I agree with the Fluke T+ Pro


----------



## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

I have a consistent need for bolt cutters lately. If you work in bad parts of town it sure makes it easier to get into panels and disconnects.


----------



## ptheriot72 (Apr 11, 2018)

A good light weight drill with multi tips. 
Strippers 
Linesmen 
Hammer 
Good meter 
Glow sticks and fish tape 
Etc 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

Pair of linesmans pliers a Vaco 146 1/4 x6 screwdriver a 16oz straight claw hammer and a 6' folding rule or a 20' Stanley Fat Max tape and a utility / razor kiife.
And a deep desire to do something else .

LC


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

The ability to listen more than talk and ambition are two of the best tools you can arm yourself with.


----------



## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

***** and nippers good for pulling staples.


----------



## Signal1 (Feb 10, 2016)

Not really a tool but something you should have, is a good set of kneepads.

Take care of you knees now, and you'll thank yourself later.


----------



## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

I wish I bought hearing protection that I would actually use. I know it's supposed to be supplied by the employer. We always have it on the job, but if I had a pair of ear muffs attached to my hard hat, I might have used them more. 

I can't say that loud music didn't have an effect. 

I've had tinnitus pretty bad for ten years now, and I'll have the ringing in my ears until I close my eyes for the last time.


----------



## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Maybe a good alarm clock and something that disables your phone during working hours. Those would be two fantastic tools to have.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

cabletie said:


> I wish I bought hearing protection that I would actually use. I know it's supposed to be supplied by the employer. We always have it on the job, but* if I had a pair of ear muffs attached to my hard hat, I might have used them more. *
> 
> I can't say that loud music didn't have an effect.
> 
> I've had tinnitus pretty bad for ten years now, and I'll have the ringing in my ears until I close my eyes for the last time.


:thumbup:

Good point!


----------



## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

Not really a tool either, but as an apprentice I would be asking for one of these if they don't already have one on the truck...

Cheers
John


----------



## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

Navyguy said:


> Not really a tool either, but as an apprentice I would be asking for one of these if they don't already have one on the truck...
> 
> Cheers
> John


We have a plastic one. It doesn't collapse like that but it doesn't run the risk of damaging anything.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Navyguy said:


> Not really a tool either, but as an apprentice I would be asking for one of these if they don't already have one on the truck...
> 
> Cheers
> John


Great choice, fantastic tool for clean up outside!


----------



## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

A folder on phone or computer for each job to save pictures after rough in. This will help figure out where your wires are when the drywall guys either bury your box, can light, or put a screw through romex. lol (serious, this is no joke). Then cut a big ass hole so he has to patch it.


----------



## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

Kevin_Essiambre said:


> We have a plastic one. It doesn't collapse like that but it doesn't run the risk of damaging anything.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


Having it collapse helps to get the insulation between various spaces rafters. The extending handle helps reach into the eve area so you don't need to dig face first when trying to get wires in and out of those tight spaces.

Cheers
John


----------



## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Two tools I can think of some like for residential - 

Your romex stripping tool of choice - maybe the Ideal 45-621










maybe just a hawkbill knife like the 35-286 










The other, @HackWork liked this gadget - the Rackatiers 55455 Staple Shark 

http://www.rack-a-tiers.com/product/37/Staple-Shark


----------



## Woot (Apr 15, 2018)

If you dont have your own power tools, now's the time to start looking. You can go cheap n upgrade later but if you got this far with whatever your using, you mine as well make a big purchase. That's what I would recommend you do anyway. Find the best setup you can afford and what you will use in your own day to day tasks. It seems simple enough but can be confusing as all hell. Once you get into Chuck size/battery amp hours/manufacturs tool options/warranty/14v/18v/20v... etc. Most guys will just go with Milwaukee. It's a great tool, decent company & safe option. I think they are ready to launch a new battery option because their having trouble running their circ saws and possibly a new battery operated chop saw. But I can't confirm that. Might wanna check out YouTube. I also like DeWalt. Some would say it's just as good, similar price. Not quite as many tool options I don't think. My other choice would be Hilti. More expensive but you will be glad u dropped the benji's when you have to hammer drill through a concrete wall or add a ground rod. I would compare hilti's smaller lineup (14v) to any other companies 18 or 20 volt lineup. Their good tools. But if you can't justify the expense (alot of ppl cant) then just stick with the big box store brands. If you get warranty GO HOME & REGISTER IT right away b4 you forget. Or some companies will not honor it. Get your name, or paint, or tape on your tools n batts. So their not mixed up. Take a quick pic/selfie of tool n serial numbers in case an insurance issue arises. If you have battery op power tools... then just disregard all that.😂😂 another important puchase would be test equipment. Get a tic tracer, then get a backup one, then get extra batteries for both. AA. Not one with watch batteries and never risk ur life relying on that thing. A simple meeter that you understand how to use Klein/sperry/fluke and I like a wiggy too. (Google it, may not need it) also u need grunt work tools. Light boots, light gloves, a few pair, hand cleaning wipes for finish work (don't be that guy that panda paws the painted walls),broom, dustpan n brush, tool belt or nail apron, fish sticks, fish tape... and just good hand tools. You are judged at first glance by your tools. Don't care what anyone says. After a few days that won't matter to much. But the first day on each crew, it will. Also if you see a need for a cheap tool that no one has, go buy it. The next time the situation arises, bust it out and play "I need a hero" over your phone, you will be a legend. 😂😂 or just hand it to your j.man n walk away, your choice. Good luck bud. Also throw some stuff in your car or truck- dry clothes, boots, rain gear, protein bars, water bottles, first aid kit, Tylenol, Motrin, Percoce...well, nhha... maybe just some tylenol🤣🤣. But u see what im getting at. Being prepared is better then any tool u could ever buy. The fact that your here on your own time shows you are already ahead of the game. You will be awesome, I'm sure.


----------



## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

@Woot... hit the <enter> key several times in your wall of text. Damn I want to read that.


----------



## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

I think this depends a lot if you are doing repairs/add-ons in older properties or residential as in "new construction".

No one mentioned a MC/BX cutter...? I use MC exclusively for unfinished basements and garages -especially lighting systems, ceiling or wall receptacles for shops, heaters and the switch, laundry receptacles, etc. MC has been really good for running baseboard heat on the first floor where the wire comes up through the floor into the heaters. Surface mounted oven receptacles, dish washers, kick heaters, more.

A folding saw that fits sawzall blades. And get PLASTER BLADES! They last forever if you are cutting drywall or plaster.

A 4" grinder for cutting meter locks, pad-locked basements, panel locks, anything that is case-hardened. Great for adding receptacles in tile walls and concrete/cinder block.

People will laugh, but if you're just doing resi work, you don't need 4-6 fancy screw drivers; get a cheap 4/6 'n 1.

9.5" lineman's pliers (they feel so much better than 9"ers). Although I keep a hammer in my van, I use my lineman's as a hammer a lot -especially in tight places.

Retractable razor, NOT a knife. And either tape it up or get a plastic one since it's safer.

A 4' ladder. And write IN CAPITAL LETTERS in several places: "NO PAINT/NO PLASTER" ...because some **** on some job will grab it and then your ladder starts having flakey stuff that gets left at your customers' houses. Make sure that the GC knows you will walk the **** off the job if someone uses your ladder for painting.

Drop cloths. Also: I keep a door mat in my van which I put at the top of the basement stairs. My customers LOVE ME.

2" Painter's tape: I make a little "shelf" out of it so that any holes that I cut above it don't drop plaster dust near the inevitable crack between the drop cloth and the baseboard.

A 250+ lumen mini-flashlight that I can hold in my teeth if I have to. Also a headlamp; mine is allegedly 2,000 lumens and rechargeable.

A reversible stubby screw driver.

Later:
Cordless hammerdrill -18 volts minimum. A serious metal case that you love. I use a Bosch demolition hammerdrill case that is from the 1980s. It's survived 4 drills and it has SO much stuff in it. 4", 4 1/8", 4 1/4" hole saws.

Good fishing rods and ball-chains with LOTS of attachments. Magnetic fishing tools like Magna-Pull, magnetic tips for your fish rods, magnetic chains, and bullets for fishing tools. LOTS of magnets; I don't even use a helper anymore -if you are on a crew, everyone will be so impressed with how fast you are. Drop a magnetic chain in the wall from the 2nd or 3rd floor, drill a 3/4" hole in the basement ceiling, poke a rod up there with a magnet to snag the chain and you are done pulling wire by the time some dude is still trying to make a bigger hole.

An in-wall camera. HUGE time saver!

Buy gadgets. Being well-equipped makes you stand out. I've "competed" next to crews of 2-3 guys and gotten right to work while they are still arguing about how to drop the lead weight down the wall.

One of the most important tools: your brain and your attitude.
Love your job -or do something else. SERVE your customers, don't just "work". It takes a while, but don't compete on price as much as you compete on service. Assume every customer is going to review you online -but don't do a great job because you're scared of that; do it because you like being a rock-star hero. Make sure every customer's kids, cat, and dog love you. Whether you work for your boss or your work for customers who hire you: Exceed Expectations. Be nice to your inspector; s/he is YOUR EMPLOYEE, not your enemy. Show them how you went above and beyond the NEC. If you find something truly horrible/dangerous, take a "before" picture to show them. My inspector often tells my customers how lucky they are to have me because I do neat and thorough work. One reason he knows that is because I let him know what I do so that he knows that I make his job easier and he trusts my concern for my customers.


----------



## Satch (Mar 3, 2011)

Greg, great post and recommendations. 

If there is one point on your list I have to second, third, ad infinitum, it is the comments about the ladders. I work around dormitory areas and we CONSTANTLY raise pure billyblue hell with our lazy painters. They have a pickup load of lightweight, easy to pack alumimium ladders and will not keep them handy. Too easy to go to our maintenance closets and grab our fiberglass ladders. And no matter HOW HARD YOU TRY you canot keep the flakes and dust off the customers floors. People's stupidity rarely surprises me anymore.


----------



## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> Good fishing rods and ball-chains with LOTS of attachments. Magnetic fishing tools like Magna-Pull, magnetic tips for your fish rods, magnetic chains, and bullets for fishing tools. LOTS of magnets; I don't even use a helper anymore -if you are on a crew, everyone will be so impressed with how fast you are. * Drop a magnetic chain in the wall from the 2nd or 3rd floor, drill a 3/4" hole in the basement ceiling, poke a rod up there with a magnet to snag the chain and you are done pulling wire by the time some dude is still trying to make a bigger hole.
> *


:001_huh:

I consider myself an expert at old work and have done it my entire electrical career, yet what you describe is strange. Assuming interior walls, how do you get to a 3rd floor from the basement without drilling through the intermediate top and bottom plates? With balloon framing what you describe is quite easy on exterior walls, but interior walls are never framed this way. I can snake an exterior balloon framed wall without having to use magnets and glow sticks.


----------



## matt1124 (Aug 23, 2011)

MotoGP1199 said:


> A folder on phone or computer for each job to save pictures after rough in. This will help figure out where your wires are when the drywall guys either bury your box, can light, or put a screw through romex. lol (serious, this is no joke). Then cut a big ass hole so he has to patch it.


This is only for your benefit. I like to know *exactly * where my $hit is so I know where NOT to cut an exploratory hole. 

Cut-cut-cut recept sized hole, keeping the little piece of gyp. "DAM IT, IT'S NOT HERE!"

**move 6 inches over, right along the trim or casing** cut-cut-cut

*Pro tip: * For even more fun, make the drywaller cut it out for you, of course where the wire ISN'T. "I think it's right here!"

:vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


----------



## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

MTW said:


> :001_huh:
> 
> I consider myself an expert at old work and have done it my entire electrical career, yet what you describe is strange. Assuming interior walls, how do you get to a 3rd floor from the basement without drilling through the intermediate top and bottom plates? With balloon framing what you describe is quite easy on exterior walls, but interior walls are never framed this way. I can snake an exterior balloon framed wall without having to use magnets and glow sticks.


Gotcha. I should have explained, because neither of us mentioned the obvious: using the plumbing stack, pipe chase, or next to a vent. A ball chain is invaluable here for multi-story drops.
My prefered method is to fish from the attic down to the basement (usually unfinished where I live) and spread out from the attic and go down into the top floor for instance.

If I can't use the stack:
I look for (but rarely find perfectly lined up) receptacles and/or switches stacked directly over each other (for instance in a hallway wall running the length of the house). If they are in the baseboards (old houses, right?) it's easy pull out the wall case (old work box) to drill through the sole plate -in which case I usually drop a chain from the top and rather than sticking my hand into the hole, I poke the floppy "bullet magnet" attachment for my MagnaPull and it grabs it quick wherever it is in the stud bay. Then I just drop the chain down and do the same thing below. If someone wants to do this, keep in mind that walls are not always built directly above each other, but usually within the same joist bay.

Other wise, I drill a 1" hole in the wall about 2"-3"" below the ceiling, stick a 7/8" bit (18" long) in the hole and drill upwards through the top plate (7/8" is the best size for my strongest magnetic bullet). From above, I do the same thing starting 1" above the baseboard going downward. Again, if someone wants to do this, keep in mind that walls are not always built directly above each other, but usually within the same joist bay.

Also, as a "cheat", sometimes I'll suggest to a customer that they let me add another receptacle in the wall 1 storey below the place I'm going to so I can cut a bigger hole to use to fish (and then put the receptacle there when I'm done -which will look better than a patch). The cost of adding a box and receptacle in often worth the savings in fishing time depending on the building. To encourage them, I might say "Hey, you know I'm running wires past this spot anyhow ..I could put a receptacle in here for $50" -since I am making better money/hour if I'm cutting my fishing time spending 15(?) minutes to make $50 plus saving time on my bid job is great for both of us.

I work in a lot of historic homes with crown moldings and fancy wood work so it can be a challenge. When someone tells me that they had another electrician tell them that they would have to remove the wood or cut a chanel, I smile inside. My way takes a little longer, but it doesn't disrupt the home like channeling plaster does and if you factor in the cost of a good carpenter or historical plasterer, I can make a lot of money by charging more and save my customers some $ too! Caveat: I work alone and can do this, but I'd be lying if I said that I'm not more efficient with a helper here. I don't do this enough to hire someone full-time, but I will hire friends or their helpers to do this sort of thing.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> I think this depends a lot if you are doing repairs/add-ons in older properties or residential as in "new construction".
> 
> No one mentioned a MC/BX cutter...? I use MC exclusively for unfinished basements and garages -especially lighting systems, ceiling or wall receptacles for shops, heaters and the switch, laundry receptacles, etc. MC has been really good for running baseboard heat on the first floor where the wire comes up through the floor into the heaters. Surface mounted oven receptacles, dish washers, kick heaters, more.
> 
> ...



Good list but the fishing gear is something I used all the time in commercial work, so it isn't just for old resi work when speed is concerned.


----------



## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rack-A...As-mEALw_wcB&dclid=CPOZ1_f6qdsCFUa-ZAodwz0GQA


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

