# Help with Tile Cutter motor controls



## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok so this beast will not move anymore... supposed to go up down left right. I can manually push in contactor on bottom left to get blade running but no movement. Fuses look good, connections good... where to start? Thoughts? Ideas? It's a Schaefer control panel.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

How do I post pics? I have pics of machine...


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok so this beast will not move anymore... supposed to go up down left right. I can manually push in contactor on bottom left to get blade running but no movement. Fuses look good, connections good... where to start? Thoughts? Ideas? It's a Schaefer control panel.


I have many thought. But what, besides pressing the motor contactor, have you done? Is there a transformer? What kind of readings are you getting?


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

I have checked voltage. I am getting good readings at contactor and reading voltage in panel... is it DC or ac there? I have continuity through the buttons when pushed. I can email you pics.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok so this beast will not move anymore... supposed to go up down left right. I can manually push in contactor on bottom left to get blade running but no movement. Fuses look good, connections good... where to start? Thoughts? Ideas? It's a Schaefer control panel.





jyeager1 said:


> I have checked voltage. I am getting good readings at contactor and reading voltage in panel... is it DC or ac there? I have continuity through the buttons when pushed. I can email you pics.


If you're reading voltage at the control panel, why don't you know if it is AC or DC? Are you an electrician or tool operator?


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

There is a 120/240/480 transformer


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Got to learn motor controls someday


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

For $12/hr I figure this is a good job


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

I'm getting very low readings ac control panel. 20-38


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

jyeager1 said:


> For $12/hr I figure this is a good job


You figured right.lain:


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok so? Help?


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

How do I post pics


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

jyeager1 said:


> Fuses look good, connections good... where to start? Thoughts? Ideas? .



1. Call an electrician who is good at machines and controls and get it fixed

2. Look on craigslist for a carpet installer 

3. You try to fix asking questions on the web


Hint, one will get you from A to B, the other 2 will get someone hurt.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Wow. Thanks


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

And I thought this was an electrical forum not an a hole forum. Guess I will post on mike holt


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

https://www.cp24.com/news/electrici...ter-explosion-in-financial-district-1.4843836


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

jyeager1 said:


> And I thought this was an electrical forum not an a hole forum. Guess I will post on mike holt


It's an electrician's forum, not a DIY help forum. Same with Holt. And both are crawling with asshole.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

CoolWill said:


> It's an electrician's forum, not a DIY help forum. Same with Holt. And both are crawling with asshole.


Do they still have the moat & trolls? :vs_laugh:


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok this isn't switchgear. I am an electrician. And I love the guys who don't know anything themselves posting their pat answers.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok this isn't switchgear. I am an electrician. And I love the guys who don't know anything themselves posting their pat answers.


Well you sure didn't sound like an electrician. There are tons of DIYs stopping in and ignoring the rules. If you get your post count up to above 20, you can post pics.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

jyeager1 said:


> I am an electrician.



Not for 12 dollars an hour, you not..............


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## JRaef (Mar 23, 2009)

You cannot post pictures here until you have a certain number of postings, I'm not a moderator here so I don't know the number, but I think it might be 25.

The reason I think people are questioning whether or not you are an electrician is because the nature of your posts seems to demonstrate a lack of basic electrical troubleshooting capabilities that any decent trade program would have taught you. But I also know that in some areas, you can get an electrician's license by demonstrating the ability to wire op a light fixture and a switch in an outhouse (that came from an industrial electrician friend of mine in Oregon, where that was literally the test at one time).

So if we take it on faith that you ARE an electrician and you can't figure this out, I suggest the following steps;

1. *Try to figure out what controls are there and how they are SUPPOSED to work.* We have no idea what a "Schaefer tile cutter" is or how it is supposed to work, but you HAVE ONE to look at.

2. *Make a wiring diagram* showing all of the connections and devices. If you don't know what a device is, don't let that stop you from writing down what wires are attached to it and where they go, because sometimes that can help you figure it out when you see the big picture.

3. *Go from what you know, to what you don't know*. You have already started to do that in that you know the arbor (assuming) motor will run when you push in the contactor, so that means it has power and THAT motor works. So now try to figure out what is controlling other parts of the machine and if any of them are required to be running before others will run. For example, your arbor (blade shaft) might be tied to a coolant pump so that if the coolant pump is not running, you can't run the arbor and burn up the blade. That's kind of common on wet saws (again, assuming). The same may be true for the "up down left right" movement; those (again assuming) motors might be tied to the arbor needing to be running before that's allowed.


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## Wardenclyffe (Jan 11, 2019)

Safety switch on the tile clamp is not making and letting the traverse work,...


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

From what you describe it does not have control voltage, if the only way you made anything work was by pushing in the contactor. The other drives are probably DC drives, do them motors have brushes?

FYI pushing in a contactor is a very common way of getting flash burn, shorted motor causes arc at weakest point, be safer. 

Cowboy


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok this isn't switchgear. I am an electrician. And I love the guys who don't know anything themselves posting their pat answers.


Actually, there are about 2 dozen of us here who could figure that thing out in about 30 seconds.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok thanks yes i'm basically working my way from what I understand to what I don't. Trust me I don't like pushing in contactors manually either. Yes I have years of commercial electrical experience. Im out of work and helping someone out right now. So 12/hr and $600 if I get it running.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

Post the pics at a file sharing site and post the link.


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## CoolWill (Jan 5, 2019)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok thanks yes i'm basically working my way from what I understand to what I don't. Trust me I don't like pushing in contactors manually either. Yes I have years of commercial electrical experience. Im out of work and helping someone out right now. So 12/hr and $600 if I get it running.


Go back to that transformer. You posted the primary volts. See if there is power going in and coming out. If there is secondary power, follow it, checking at each location it lands. I suspect you will reach a point where it goes into something but doesn't come out.


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## JRaef (Mar 23, 2009)

CoolWill said:


> Go back to that transformer. You posted the primary volts. See if there is power going in and coming out. If there is secondary power, follow it, checking at each location it lands. I suspect you will reach a point where it goes into something but doesn't come out.


I once was troubleshooting a long bridge crane interlocking system and my partner started at one end by forcing a PLC output, I was at the other end at an actuator that was not working. We each started moving down the line, checking the circuit at each junction box along the way. Eventually we got to the SAME terminal block; he had voltage on his side, I didn't have it on my side! Turned out the assembler at the crane factory had crimped onto the insulation, not the conductor.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok thanks yes i'm basically working my way from what I understand to what I don't. Trust me I don't like pushing in contactors manually either. Yes I have years of commercial electrical experience. Im out of work and helping someone out right now. So 12/hr and $600 if I get it running.


It should take less than a minute to look at the panel and tell what parts you are dealing with. Either you need to post crap until you hit 20 post then post pictures or you need to list all the parts. If you don't know what a part is then you have no idea what the part does which will make fixing it difficult. 

Most of us control guys love this type of puzzle but we tend to get bored quickly so post info to keep us interested. 

If you need help with the post count just post something bitchy and start a fight that will quickly get you to 20-25 posts.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

CoolWill said:


> Go back to that transformer. You posted the primary volts. See if there is power going in and coming out. If there is secondary power, follow it, checking at each location it lands. I suspect you will reach a point where it goes into something but doesn't come out.


goes to a square thing that has 9 spiky things on the bottom and its orange.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok thanks yes i'm basically working my way from what I understand to what I don't. Trust me I don't like pushing in contactors manually either. Yes I have years of commercial electrical experience. Im out of work and helping someone out right now. So 12/hr and $600 if I get it running.


Give me $300. and will get er up and running. :smile: I accept Venmo


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Lol ok thanks for the help. I am trying to get the pics up right now


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Send me a PM if you can, I will send you a book in PDF that I wrote on basic machine control troubleshooting, I think it will help you in this situation. It seems like you want to learn and are not a DYI er

Cowboy

If any others that want to learn need a copy PM me.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Hey cowboy I tried to PM you but it said I dont have permission. My email is same as my username but 325 instead of the one and at g mail. Hope you can message me. I am using dropbox to get pics up.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tk7anq0iytit5js/20200312_091530.jpg?dl=0


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z2nhyogr8ikb9dw/20200312_091605.jpg?dl=0


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7gy3wfi9d8311b7/20200312_091627.jpg?dl=0


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7gy3wfi9d8311b7/20200312_091627.jpg?dl=0

Pics


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

Cool, now start at the top left. Do you have 240V at the breaker?

Does anything power up at all?


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

OK thats better.
First what lights are lit anywhere?
Second look for 24 VDC off of that powersupply to the left of the control transformer.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

Harve, is that a brake on that motor?


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

There isn't a drawing in that cabinet ? You have a plc, and 3 small drives


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

The contactor to the left of the small circuit breakers should be pulled in. That looks to be a Estop relay taking power from drives.
The PLC switch is in the correct position Run. ( that is the unit that says Direct06)
The Run light should be on on the PLC


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Helmut said:


> Harve, is that a brake on that motor?


More that likely a prox switch used for zero speed


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6pbshyd95igf8vs/20200312_100755.jpg?dl=0

All that is lit are the three vfd's at bottom. I am not getting anything, DC or otherwise, on left of transformer.

Pic


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Yea that smaller contactor is not working properly. I can power the PC but only going directly to the contactor. Not where the wire to the plc was landed...on the side terminals of contactor.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

dronai said:


> There isn't a drawing in that cabinet ? You have a plc, and 3 small drives


Bet we can get it working


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

I'm getting voltage at top terminals on side of small contactor but not the bottom.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

And no no drawing. There appears to be an empty holder where paperwork should be.


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

This is not too bad, there is not much in that cabinet.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

what happens if you press an E-stop?


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Did you start from the 480V/ control transformer ? Then just follow the wires. Should hit those breakers, and thru the panduits. I didn't see a DC 24V transformer in there


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

On that power supply white wire to 9 or 6 can't tell what direction it is should be 120 volts. If good next
Brown and blue next to it 24- & 24 + should have 24 VDC on it.
If not remove the + wires and recheck. If voltage comes back you have a short on the DC, If no voltage bad power supply


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Helmut said:


> what happens if you press an E-stop?


I've seen that too, someone hit the E stop without knowing


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

dronai said:


> Did you start from the 480V/ control transformer ? Then just follow the wires. Should hit those breakers, and thru the panduits. I didn't see a DC 24V transformer in there


To the left of the control xformer, open chassis DC power supply.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

PLC is not powered up most times E stop don't kill PLC


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

just the cowboy said:


> To the left of the control xformer, open chassis DC power supply.


Did he measure 24V out ?


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

dronai said:


> Did he measure 24V out ?


This is all he said, he confused me....




jyeager1 said:


> I'm getting very low readings ac control panel. 20-38


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Those 3 breakers are for the drives. This guy needs to stick around and answer some questions.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

I don't see anything about DC power coming off that transformer either according to schematics. Im not getting 120ac or 24+- at power supply either. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dblasrlnu453vfq/20200312_110016.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rgl0w1tma10ifbu/20200312_110044.jpg?dl=0


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

jyeager1 said:


> I don't see anything about DC power coming off that transformer either according to schematics. Im not getting 120ac or 24+- at power supply either.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/dblasrlnu453vfq/20200312_110016.jpg?dl=0
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/rgl0w1tma10ifbu/20200312_110044.jpg?dl=0


So you have no power from the 480V/ 120V control transformer ? Check the fuses on it


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

So on wire 9 and the white wire at the dc supply, you do not have 120V AC?

Trace 9 back to whatever fuse it goes to, and see if the fuse is good and if you have 120V on top of the fuse.

As cowboy stated, it might be a 6


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

And the plc is coming on. But not fully. Only the right side has green lights coming on. I misspoke earlier. And I apologize if i'm not answering fast enough. Im taking advice, checking it, taking pics, uploading then answering. I am very appreciative though. Here's pic of plc lit up. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xgvecq5gvxu984c/20200312_111334.jpg?dl=0


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Your story is changing, i'm out


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

The PLC lights look good.
CPU light would be RED if faulted.
Rx & TX lights are only for communations.

Go back to transformer and power supply, transformer will take voltage from high voltage to 120v AC only. The other unit converts AC to DC.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

You don't have 120VAC or 24VDC at the power supply, yet the PLC is on?

Cmon, check your meter. 

Check the 240V incoming and make sure your meter works.
Then check power supply again.


Then check all your estops.

Then report back.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Helmut said:


> You don't have 120VAC or 24VDC at the power supply, yet the PLC is on?.


My guess is 120 volt PLC.
Transformer is good power wise.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

just the cowboy said:


> My guess is 120 volt PLC.
> Transformer is good power wise.


It has all blue wires going to it, no red and white.

I guessed 24V based upon that, and well, my eyes ain't that good any more.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Back to basics
On terminial strip connect black meter lead to #2 white wire and leave it for now.
All red wires should read 120v under correct conditions ( contacts made ).
move red meter lead to #1 what does it show?
If 120 v repeat for 3,4,6. what does it show?

Post answers


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Yes I always check my meter on ac before working... just habit. But I also checked it on DC just now on car battery. Its fine


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

It is a D0-06DR 120-240 VAC line input


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

just the cowboy said:


> It is a D0-06DR 120-240 VAC line input


Your eyes are better than mine. I can't read that on there.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

Follow what cowboy says to do. This way you won't get confused with too many of us asking you different questions.

We'll just follow along.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok looking at this pic...I test for ac from the second white wire which is on 7th terminal block or the first one on the 6th and I dont get 120 going to the red wires. I get 48volts to the blue or the first and second blocks. 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/75gqsyk64h8rg3v/20200312_114642.jpg?dl=0

I get 120 from white wire to red off the transformer left side.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4cpdrpvwuvt53j1/20200312_114647.jpg?dl=0


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

He is converting single phase 120 to 3 phase. So im getting 120, 120, then 210 on a, b and c. Going all the way back to panel. See pic. So is this another problem? How did this machine run at one time?


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Follow post 70 for now


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

I did...see post 75


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

As for post 76 that is fine


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

He is converting single phase 120 to 3 phase. So im getting 120, 120, then 210 on a, b and c. Going all the way back to panel. See pic. So is this another problem? How did this machine run at one time?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ep1fpry3f4nq3gl/20200312_120212.jpg?dl=0


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

no lower terminial strip following wire numbers not positions


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

As for the convertor you only read L1-L2 L2-L3 L3-L1 do not read to ground it don't mean anything. If you want to read up on this later search "static phase converter"


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok ok...let me see


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Going to do some work be back


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok looking at the main terminal strip im getting 120 from #2 white to red #1, 3 and 4. But nothing after that.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

And yes 240 from all three phases


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok looking at the main terminal strip im getting 120 from #2 white to red #1, 3 and 4. But nothing after that.


Ok, you do not have 120V from #2 to #6, is this correct?

If so, trace out #6 and find out where it goes, and find out where #6 starts to have power again. It appears #6 feeds the DC supply cowboy talked earlier about. You stated that between the this #6 wire on the supply and the white wire you had no power. Where else does #6 go? Trace it out from that point on the terminal block in both directions. Report back with findings.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

#6 runs from the smaller contactor to terminal block to the power supply? The thing to the left of the transformer.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

#6 runs from contactor to TB to this the power supply or plc?


https://www.dropbox.com/s/rgl0w1tma10ifbu/20200312_110044.jpg?dl=0


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

You have 2 (two) #6's on that power supply, where does the other #6 go?

On the contactor, you found a #6. Is there 2 (two) #6's on this contactor, or is there 1(one) #6 and a #4 or other number wire on the other side of the contact where the #6 is?


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Take a good close up[ of the small contactor so we can see all connections and wire numbers. one of them is going to be the coil that goes to a safety.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Helmut said:


> You have 2 (two) #6's on that power supply, where does the other #6 go?
> 
> On the contactor, you found a #6. Is there 2 (two) #6's on this contactor, or is there 1(one) #6 and a #4 or other number wire on the other side of the contact where the #6 is?


Looks like a #1 on top of the aux contact on the right with a #6 on bottom.

No coil voltage my guess you would find wires # 4 and #5 one a safety device and #5 goes to the coil.

P.S. Doing good out here in Colorado may get moved SCADA supervisor job.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Yes both sides go to coil on contactor to tb and power supply then from TB to control panel where I lose it bc it's not numbered


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

just the cowboy said:


> P.S. Doing good out here in Colorado may get moved SCADA supervisor job.


Good to hear my brother.
More snow out there than back here I bet.

I'm pretty much out of it all now. Kept 4 customers that pay well.
Other than that, I nap once a day now, and tinker around the house looking for something to do.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xywwhlf3eamzuf4/20200312_135517.jpg?dl=0

Small Contactor


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

There isn't a #5


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Well not there. Its further down TB and brown wires


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

There's the problem. 

#1 on the contactor is hot. Coil is not energized so #6 never gets hot.

Need to find out why coil won't pull in.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

#4 on a leg of contactor on top and two #1 to coil top. One #1 to transformer and other to fuse block then on to plc. Two #6 on bottom coil and #3 on bottom leg opposite #4 on top


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok so bad coil? Also what about this? I don't know if it happened when another person looked at this who knows even less than me (I know, right!) or part of the machines demise.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uoj2j3ycsetnc9y/20200312_140817.jpg?dl=0


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

The red and white on the top back of the contactor should have 120 volts. What number is on the red one looks like #1? If you have 120v on #1 &#2 at term strip and at coil you have a bad coil.
Fixed


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Its #4 not #1 but I still think a bad coil


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

#1 is going to coil. #4 to back of contactor. Let me check voltage


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r2xfukbi1wit5bp/20200312_142600.jpg?dl=0

120 there


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

120v white to red at back of contactor


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

#1 goes to auxiliary contact on contactor.
#4 is for coil. You stated #4 was hot already.

Shut off machine, pull #4 off coil, and ohm out coil. It's probably open.

Once you get that fixed, you can trouble shoot power supply. If it has a burnt resistor on it, you'll probably need a new power supply, as I doubt you can fix that.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

And someone doesn't like to strip wires far enough do they?

The pressure plates on the terminations look like they are squeezing down on the insulation of the wire instead of the copper wire itself. May want to fix those also.


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

jyeager1 said:


> Ok so bad coil? Also what about this? I don't know if it happened when another person looked at this who knows even less than me (I know, right!) or part of the machines demise.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/uoj2j3ycsetnc9y/20200312_140817.jpg?dl=0


Actually, you did that. If you look at your previous picture of that supply, the resistor isn't fried. You did something wrong. Post 89 to be exact.

Someone just pointed that out to me.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Yea. I noticed the difference also but he had someone look at it between yesterday when i left and took original pics and today. Either way i am gone now. Picking up a new coil and will check tomorrow.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Helmut said:


> Good to hear my brother.
> More snow out there than back here I bet.
> 
> I'm pretty much out of it all now. Kept 4 customers that pay well.
> Other than that, I nap once a day now, and tinker around the house looking for something to do.


David

No I'm on the edge of the plains, we only had about 5-6" so far this year. It's nice not having the dampness out here. Cold at nights but nice during the day.
Harv


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

I wouldn't be surprised if 120v and dc has got a little mixed up.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

I haven't touched any of that wiring in the control panel. I hope there aren't too many issues there. Will I have to replace the entire contactor tomorrow? Hopefully I can find a replacement coil and auxillary contact.


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## The_Modifier (Oct 24, 2009)

jyeager1 said:


> How do I post pics? I have pics of machine...


You need a 132 posts- used to be 100, but then some masonic guy joined and added another 32.


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## The_Modifier (Oct 24, 2009)

jyeager1 said:


> I haven't touched any of that wiring in the control panel. I hope there aren't too many issues there. Will I have to replace the entire contactor tomorrow? Hopefully I can find a replacement coil and auxillary contact.


Late to the post, let's do a recap and list everything you have done. Then we can get this sorted.

1. I know that you're an electrician- according to your filled out profile. I know at least you can read the rules. Thank you.

2. Can you list everything *thoroughly with your results* in one post of what and how you tested so I don't have to read 6-7 pages to find all the information please?

Thank you.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok so recap...I have checked voltage coming into breaker on left. It's 240. Big contactor below is not coming on but will power blade if pushed in manually. Transformer has voltage in and out. Checked for voltage at terminal block. 120 from white wires #2 to red #1, 3 and 4. But no further. Small contactor is coming on. 120 at coil on top from white to red #4 but auxillary contactor not reading on bottom, # 6. Pulled small contactor and power supply to replace contactor, either completely or coil and auxillary and power supply due to resistor burnt up. That's where i'm at.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Going to get parts if I don't respond for a few minutes


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

No comments regarding my summary? Parts ordered and will be here monday/Tuesday. Thanks again for all the help. Am I missing anything?


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

To save having to read the last 100 post.

3 phase input 240v phase to phase coming of a cap bank converting single phase to 3 phase done this way for the large motor on the saw (large contactor)

2 legs being used to a small contactor . That feeds 3 x 2 pole breakers one for each drive. 

Drives are single 240v to 3 phase 240. 24vdc control wiring via plc

240v to 120v transformer being used for contactor power and a few switch's (maybe e-stop with screwed up wiring)

24vdc transformer hard to follow but looks like its fused then powers the plc and screen on door. Also use for inputs to plc and outputs

some cleaver person used the same numbers on both 120v controls and 24v controls so it wouldn't be surprising to find a number#5 120v hooked to a number #5 24vdc and a very expensive mess (plc wont like it)

jyeager is going for the money shot so hes not going to draw a print of the panel. He also seem to struggle with a meter so ohming wires to ensure 120v is not connected to 24vdc will be a problem. 

aux is trashed on small contactor which is worrying as i've only seen one fail in 15 years that wasn't shorted out. There is a fuse on the transformer so maybe im wrong

Dc power supply may be trash. Honestly need wiring to a pig tail and plugging into a receptacle rather using the main panel for power at least until the basic trouble shooting is done to avoid damage to the plc. 

Door wiring is mostly intact but one switch/button under hmi is screwed up on the wiring. Again mixing 120v colors with 24vdc colors makes this a mistake waiting to happen.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

Ok thanks. I will be working on it monday. Im pretty proficient with a meter. Not sure where that shot came from but ok.


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## jyeager1 (Jul 13, 2014)

I will put in a new contactor and DC power supply. Yea I've not seen an aux contact go bad either...


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## dronai (Apr 11, 2011)

Update ?


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## Helmut (May 7, 2014)

dronai said:


> Update ?


He's still looking for more parts that the other guy blew up


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