# Electric baseboard thermostat location



## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

220wire said:


> Is there any codes (IBC, NFPA, etc) for bedroom heat requirements?
> 
> I ask b/c I'm looking at a job that the engineer wants to relocate the wall mounted thermostats in the bedrooms to outside the bedrooms (2-3 b/r) to the hallway outside the bedrooms, along with controlling the bathroom heat from the same location in the hall.
> 
> Doesn't make sense and I think it could be a fire hazard if the heat was turned up and the doors were shut


It would never be a fire hazard, just a typical engineers screw up


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## 360max (Jun 10, 2011)

220wire said:


> Is there any codes (IBC, NFPA, etc) for bedroom heat requirements?
> 
> I ask b/c I'm looking at a job that the engineer wants to relocate the wall mounted thermostats in the bedrooms to outside the bedrooms (2-3 b/r) to the hallway outside the bedrooms, along with controlling the bathroom heat from the same location in the hall.
> 
> Doesn't make sense and I think it could be a fire hazard if the heat was turned up and the doors were shut



I would bet the instructions say otherwise, and would therefore be a violation of 110.3.b


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

360max said:


> I would bet the instructions say otherwise, and would therefore be a violation of 110.3.b


I doubt they say otherwise. 

It is a odd design but I doubt a violation.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

220wire said:


> Doesn't make sense and I think it could be a fire hazard if the heat was turned up and the doors were shut


I would doubt that the room would get that hot, as far as the heater getting too hot that is really only going to happen if you blocked the airflow to it.

But, electric baseboard heat has a full length high temperature cut out that would shut it down if the air flow was blocked or if the air in the room was so hot that it stopped keeping the heating element cool.


The safety cut out is part 6 on this drawing


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

BBQ said:


> I would doubt that the room would get that hot, as far as the heater getting too hot that is really only going to happen if you blocked the airflow to it.
> 
> But, electric baseboard heat has a full length high temperature cut out that would shut it down if the air flow was blocked or if the air in the room was so hot that it stopped keeping the heating element cool.
> 
> ...



Isn't that also a thermocoupling or RTD for the thermostat?


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

Little-Lectric said:


> Isn't that also a thermocoupling or RTD for the thermostat?


What is "RTD"? (I bet when you tell me I'll go, ... DOH....)


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## 220wire (Aug 18, 2008)

I guess fire hazard was wrong. 

It just seems like a waste to have several sources of heat on when some rooms may be to temp already. I cant find anything in the IBC -just that habitable rooms need to be aboe to maintain 70* or somewheres close. Cadet stated that the tstat should be on the opposite wall-maybe a startting point


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

I've done central tstats for floors controlling 25 amp contactors for electric heat. It can be done and it does work as long as the baseboards are sized appropriately.


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## don_resqcapt19 (Jul 18, 2010)

Is that really any different than a typical hot air heating system with a single thermostat for the whole house?


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

don_resqcapt19 said:


> Is that really any different than a typical hot air heating system with a single thermostat for the whole house?


Or my oil fired steam heat for a two floor home with a single stat on the first floor


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

An engineer on a house build? Why?


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Thermostat is always located on interior wall above light switch.. that makes most sense for a good design...


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

B4T said:


> Thermostat is always located on interior wall above light switch.. that makes most sense for a good design...


I'm gonna have to agree with you. Its a t-stat turning on a baseboard heater not linking up satellites in outer space. No need to over engineer it


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## big vic (Jan 23, 2012)

It's also a disconnect for the heaters.......should be within sight


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

big vic said:


> It's also a disconnect for the heaters.......should be within sight


I think there is an exception for a lockable circuit breaker to serve as the disconnect.


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## Hippie (May 12, 2011)

hardworkingstiff said:


> I think there is an exception for a lockable circuit breaker to serve as the disconnect.


Yeah and it has to be a 2 pole t stat


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

hardworkingstiff said:


> I think there is an exception for a lockable circuit breaker to serve as the disconnect.





Hippie said:


> Yeah and it has to be a 2 pole t stat


It is one or the other.

You can use a single pole stat and install breaker lockout as the disconnecting means *OR * you can install a 2 pole stat with a marked off position that will serve as the disconnecting means without a breaker lockout.


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## Hippie (May 12, 2011)

BBQ said:


> It is one or the other.
> 
> You can use a single pole stat and install breaker lockout as the disconnecting means OR you can install a 2 pole stat with a marked off position that will serve as the disconnecting means without a breaker lockout.


That's what I meant, now that I read my response it is confusing


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## Gene Mattice (Dec 18, 2012)

*Geno*

An RTD is a resistance temperature detector. It doesn't matter where the thermostat is. they are commonly used on radiant heating systems. I have put 18 thermostats in an office once. they controlled any room in the building


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