# Stake-on pliers



## electro916 (Jan 16, 2009)

stryker21 said:


> I got hired on with a company and the tool list had 8" stake-on pliers on it. Does anyone know what these are? I searched on google but couldn't find anything.



Probably meant Sta-Kon pliers.

Connector Crimpers are what they mean.

I use these by Klein.


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## stryker21 (Jan 30, 2010)

right on!! must have been a typo. thanks!!!


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

I like Kline Sta-Kon the best. I have tried GB, Greenlee and Channel Lock brand. Always seem to loose them but occasionally break them.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Once you have the stak-on pliers/crimp-er and you are ready to use them on insulated lugs, look into the insulation and see the separation in the rolled part you are crimping. That separation will go into the round side of the tool. That will prevent the lug metal from "splaying" and will be a better connection.


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## stryker21 (Jan 30, 2010)

drsparky said:


> . Always seem to loose them


I had Ideal but I lost them, well my 2 year old hid them some where real good.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

stryker21 said:


> I had Ideal but I lost them, well my 2 year old hid them some where real good.


It sounds as if he found an Ideal spot.


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## stryker21 (Jan 30, 2010)

RIVETER said:


> It sounds as if he found an Ideal spot.


She, but yeah. I got then in school. My 1st Electrician tool set


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

stryker21 said:


> She, but yeah. I got then in school. My 1st Electrician tool set
> http://http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/05211102000


Okay, now we know.


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## mattsilkwood (Sep 21, 2008)

RIVETER said:


> Once you have the stak-on pliers/crimp-er and you are ready to use them on insulated lugs, look into the insulation and see the separation in the rolled part you are crimping. That separation will go into the round side of the tool. That will prevent the lug metal from "splaying" and will be a better connection.


 I was always under the impression that insulated terminals go back by the hinge. The part behind the cutters are for non-insulated terminals


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

mattsilkwood said:


> I was always under the impression that insulated terminals go back by the hinge. The part behind the cutters are for non-insulated terminals


Any and all of them go into the die that fits it best, and does not overly squish it.:thumbsup:


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

I use them for wire/tie wrap cutters too. I like the longer handles better than *****.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> Any and all of them go into the die that fits it best, and does not overly squish it.:thumbsup:


 
Matt is correct, you are using yours improperly, if you're using insulated terminals, the entire dye is round. The other dye is for non insulated. They are clearly marked. Not much sense in using an insulated dye and punching through it


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## Toronto Sparky (Apr 12, 2009)

I use Burndy..


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Matt is correct, you are using yours improperly, if you're using insulated terminals, the entire dye is round. The other dye is for non insulated. They are clearly marked. Not much sense in using an insulated dye and punching through it


I've been using the same T&Bs for many years and I am not using them wrong. They crimp from a #22 to a #10 and the insulation rarely punctures.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

Take this for what it is worth but the tool you use must be listed by the manufacturer of the crimps you use as acceptable. 110.3(B)

Just letting you know, rock on.


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> I've been using the same T&Bs for many years and I am not using them wrong. They crimp from a #22 to a #10 and the insulation rarely punctures.


Look at the instructions that come with the crimps, what crimpers are listed as acceptable?


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> I've been using the same T&Bs for many years and I am not using them wrong. They crimp from a #22 to a #10 and the insulation rarely punctures.


 

I don't care if you've had them 100 years, you're still using them wrong:no:


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## LJSMITH1 (May 4, 2009)

Bob Badger said:


> Look at the instructions that come with the crimps, what crimpers are listed as acceptable?


 
Who really needs to read those silly instructions anyway? :laughing:


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## Bob Badger (Apr 19, 2009)

LJSMITH1 said:


> Who really needs to read those silly instructions anyway? :laughing:


Certainly not me. :laughing:


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

mcclary's electrical said:


> I don't care if you've had them 100 years, you're still using them wrong:no:


I use my T&Bs for about everything and they have worked for me. I'll bet you never used your Kleins as a hammer either.:no:


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## Jamuz (Aug 8, 2007)

What does that have to do with the price of tea in China?:001_huh:


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Jamuz said:


> What does that have to do with the price of tea in China?:001_huh:


Isn't that where they grow that thorn bush tea?


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> I use my T&Bs for about everything and they have worked for me. I'll bet you never used your Kleins as a hammer either.:no:


 

Just because it works for you, doesn't make it correct.:noI can't believe we're even debating it.) Beating a staple in with klein's is not the same as ruining an insulating ring terminal


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Just because it works for you, doesn't make it correct.:noI can't believe we're even debating it.) Beating a staple in with klein's is not the same as ruining an insulating ring terminal


The only reason we are debating it is because you brought it up. I am not about to change my methods after 30 years of success...with all due respect.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

RIVETER said:


> The only reason we are debating it is because you brought it up. I am not about to change my methods after 30 years of success...with all due respect.


 
I completely understandcarry on


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

mcclary's electrical said:


> I completely understandcarry on


That was too easy...I'm sorry too.:thumbsup:


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## Ampere (Jul 16, 2010)

I prefer the T&B crimper, a bit pricey, but top quality


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Ampere said:


> I prefer the T&B crimper, a bit pricey, but top quality


 


Good tool, that's the one I have


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

I bought my Kline pair back in the mid 1980s still they were something like $35 at the time. I still use them on a regular basis.


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

Ok here it is again. Wire connectors are to be crimped using the approved crimper as listed on the box. I was told this by a UL inspector.
So if you are using Ideal crimps you need to use an Ideal crimper not a Klien or 3M or..... 

And yes I know that the boss buys the material and you use what ever tool you have to install them. In the real world of construction you do what you can with what you got and move on.:whistling2:


Check out the quality of the crimps using the wrong crimping tool and as to using the right crimping tool.

View attachment 3809


View attachment 3810



Gee Wiz people, you have to use the right tool for the right job. :no:


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

John said:


> Ok here it is again. Wire connectors are to be crimped using the approved crimper as listed on the box. I was told this by a UL inspector.
> So if you are using Ideal crimps you need to use an Ideal crimper not a Klien or 3M or.....
> 
> And yes I know that the boss buys the material and you use what ever tool you have to install them. In the real world of construction you do what you can with what you got and move on.:whistling2:
> ...


So you are saying that I cant crimp them with the handle side of my 9" linemans?


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

jrannis said:


> So you are saying that I cant crimp them with the handle side of my 9" linemans?


You can do anything you want , because you don't work for me. :jester:


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

John said:


> You can do anything you want , because you don't work for me. :jester:


It still sounds like a bunch of crap. "A UL inspector told me..................."


BTW,
UL people can lead you down deep and slippery slopes if you let them.


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

jrannis said:


> It still sounds like a bunch of crap. "A UL inspector told me..................."


It is. UL specifacations are more political than anything else..


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Sorry,
I just cant find any reference to what the guy told you. I do believe that there are some "type specific" crimps and tools but for the generic types, it would seem as though a generic crimp tool would be just fine for what we terminate.


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## Jamuz (Aug 8, 2007)

Quality is not the same as aesthetics. What you are showing is a better looking crimp rather than proving that one is stronger than the other. We are not paid to create art. At least I'm not.


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## Interlock (Jul 14, 2010)

I see most people using the crimper built into their lineman's pliers for StaKons, even tho that die is for uninsulated crimps only. A lot of people also use that lineman crimper for grounding barrel crimps in resi work.


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## John (Jan 22, 2007)

jrannis said:


> Sorry,
> I just cant find any reference to what the guy told you. I do believe that there are some "type specific" crimps and tools but for the generic types, it would seem as though a generic crimp tool would be just fine for what we terminate.





John said:


> And yes I know that the boss buys the material and you use what ever tool you have to install them. In the real world of construction you do what you can with what you got and move on.:whistling2:


I agree with what you are saying it's just there is the proper tool for crimping wire terminals and there are UL requirements for wire terminations in order to get the UL stamp of approval. Doing construction does not really need UL approval on the final product whereas if you were wiring the internals of a toaster you will need their approval.


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