# Ideas on mounting a Knaack box in truck



## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

My last pickup had a couple holes already in the bed (don't know if they were stock or not) and since I was a lazy bastard I ran chain down and around. I don't recommend anything besides bolts, though, because when some idiot broad comes flying across 4 lanes and that truck hits the jersey wall and rides it for a hundred yards or so almost flipping, those bolts will be the only thing keeping that box from jumping into the cab and saying hello.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Have you considered Scotch double-sided tape ?

Then your chassis can remain a virgin, chaste and pure. 

Another possibility is NIB magnets. Some of those puppies can lift an engine block. Not kidding.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Throw a piece of plywood down and bolt the box to the plywood. Done. Have a beer.


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## Ink&Brass (Nov 6, 2013)

I think your answer is going to trump anyone else's "non-invasive" method.

We just used 1/2" x 5" lag bolts drilled through the inside of the gang box in all four corners, into piloted holes in the truck bed. Using lags instead of nuts/bolts keeps greasy hands from undoing the box from under the truck.
The thing is going nowhere. I don't think you could get the same transport / anti-theft security from any other method.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> Finally found a Amish pickup and now I am looking for ideas on mounting a Knaack gang in the back.
> The box is a Knaack 2060 gang box NOT A WEATHER GUARD . The box will be Linexed as well as the bed of the truck.
> I DO NOT WANT TO DRILL ANY ADDITIONAL HOLES IN THE TRUCK and in the past I have always able go get buy with out drilling additional holes in the truck.
> 
> ...


Will you be using treated or galvanized steel?
Sounds like quite a bit more work and effort than just through bolting it to the bed like most people do.
I was thinking maybe the whole idea of getting a stripped down truck was to be able to do things like bolt a strongbox to the bed.


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

The striped down truck is that I do not wanting to be buying additional problems. 
I had a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado and here is a list of all of the electrical problems that I have had with it.
Instrument cluster $600.00
6 blower speed controls $55.00 each
2 blower speed control connectors $45.00 each
1 damper drive motor $90.00 ???
3 radio/CD players under werentee and the CD player has a CD stuck in it now.
Transmission problems electrical in nature $450.00 +
Head lights and turn signal lamps $ 150.00
Alternator $100.00
Electrical problem now that is keeping the ABS module,cruse control and blower motor from working
This is where I decided to cut my loses.
Why do I want to buy any additional problems.

LC


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Some people, with a 12 year old truck, would call most of those small expenses, maintenance.
I have aftermarket remote power door locks, a radio that is pretty much an android tablet with a rear camera, two seats, AC, and a steering wheel.
I'm good.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> The striped down truck is that I do not wanting to be buying additional problems.
> I had a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado and here is a list of all of the electrical problems that I have had with it.
> Instrument cluster $600.00
> 6 blower speed controls $55.00 each
> ...


 Did you buy it new or was it in a flood?


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

Those expenses are through the life of the truck. Any one of them could be normal maintenance and I could live with that.But taken in total that tells me that it is not a good quality product.
Where I work there was 4 or 5 of us that had 2004 Chevrolet trucks and all of us experienced similar problems. I look at a study of Chevrolet trucks and I think the timeline was 2000 to 2010 and the worst year for problems was 2004 . I said that truer words were never spoken. 
The truck was bought new in April 2004.

LC


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