# Loose meter jaw fix



## 480sparky

Been having a lot of service calls lately for Loss of Power. Turns out, it's because of loose jaws in the meter sockets. I typically take a pair of Channies and squeeze them back together, but sometimes this is only a temporary fix........ six weeks later, I'm back.

I've seen clamps that are used on fuses that tighten the blades onto the fuse ends: Does a similar clip exist for meter jaws? It would have to be mounted above/below the jaw to allow for the meter to be inserted.


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## McClary’s Electrical

I've found that the guts from the millbanks they sell at hom depot fit in dominions meter bases. I don't have to swap the whole can.


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## 480sparky

Sockets are 60's era, no name on them. 

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc172/480sparky/Solve This Service Call/DSC_4605a.jpg


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## electricalwiz

My local poco has clips like that but I never seen them for sale


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## kbsparky

Time to replace those meter boxes/guts.

Squeezing those jaws back together is only a temporary fix at best. Once the temper is gone, those type of repairs won't last.


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## McClary’s Electrical

I would schedule to meet the power company out there, and they will normally have parts on their trucks.


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## leland

mcclary's electrical said:


> I would schedule to meet the power company out there, and they will normally have parts on their trucks.



Good Idea, but given the age of the socket,probably nut & bolt,so the can has to come off any way.


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## wildleg

replace


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## SEREMan2000

an even easier fix is to tell the power company to stop pulling the meters on house when customers dont pay.


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## Bulldog1

mcclary's electrical said:


> I would schedule to meet the power company out there, and they will normally have parts on their trucks.


Duke stopped supplying meters here years ago. I save the guts out of the old meters we take out for emergency repairs like you do.


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## Cletis

*2*

2 polaris vice grips would solve that problem


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## 480sparky

mcclary's electrical said:


> I would schedule to meet the power company out there, and they will normally have parts on their trucks.



It's not POCO equipment, so they won't touch them.


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## 480sparky

SEREMan2000 said:


> an even easier fix is to tell the power company to stop pulling the meters on house when customers dont pay.



Right. Like I'm gonna tell the POCO how to run their business. What do you think I am..... a union?


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## davis9

I twist them from the inside with my beater screwdriver forcing the arm back out. Then re-squeeze with Channel locks.

Tom


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## Stab&Shoot

Permit for disconnect-reconnect. Replace meter can. Easy 12-15 hundred bucks and ...............wait for it..............no call backs or liability!!! Easy one!


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## Magnettica

I would do my best to make the repair and if the problem persisted it would have to be replaced. We install a lot of 5-jaw meter pans here because they [POCO] like to measure the neutral current too.


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## CADPoint

Metal once deformed; this work is done at the smallest level of the metal structure-level, nothing can be done to correct this!

Once this change has happened, one has changed the properties of the orginial charactertics of the metal.


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## RePhase277

I bet you can find a new jaw from a meter socket and use it as a spring over the old jaw to hold it tight.


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## thegoodelectrician

Last year I had a job working for our utility replacing meter sockets, and repairing them as they went through and replaced all their meters with the automated reading type. I found alot of different sockets, and diminished my supply of used parts, however one thing the meter manufacturer asked me before I was awarded the project is what would I do if I came to a socket that had loose jaws. I said my first try would be to squeeze them back together, and then replace them if they would not stay together. They told me NEVER to squeeze them back together because their new meters would burn up the connection if the jaws were not the right strength. It has proven to be true, because a year after all the meters were finished, there is alot of meter sockets and new meters burned up. The contractor they hired to actually install the meters, used temp workers to replace the meters, and they squeezed alot of the jaws together.


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## LARMGUY

thegoodelectrician said:


> Last year I had a job working for our utility replacing meter sockets, and repairing them as they went through and replaced all their meters with the automated reading type. I found alot of different sockets, and diminished my supply of used parts, however one thing the meter manufacturer asked me before I was awarded the project is what would I do if I came to a socket that had loose jaws. I said my first try would be to squeeze them back together, and then replace them if they would not stay together. They told me NEVER to squeeze them back together because their new meters would burn up the connection if the jaws were not the right strength. It has proven to be true, because a year after all the meters were finished, there is alot of meter sockets and new meters burned up. The contractor they hired to actually install the meters, used temp workers to replace the meters, and they squeezed alot of the jaws together.


Good to know inormation. Thanks. :thumbsup:


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## LARMGUY

480sparky said:


> Been having a lot of service calls lately for Loss of Power. Turns out, it's because of loose jaws in the meter sockets. I typically take a pair of Channies and squeeze them back together, but sometimes this is only a temporary fix........ six weeks later, I'm back.
> 
> I've seen clamps that are used on fuses that tighten the blades onto the fuse ends: Does a similar clip exist for meter jaws? It would have to be mounted above/below the jaw to allow for the meter to be inserted.


 
Is this what you are talking about for fuses?


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## guest

LARMGUY said:


> Is this what you are talking about for fuses?


No sir, he means these things: 

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...ces/Catalog Pages/BUS_Ele_TRON_Clip_Clamp.pdf








:thumbup::thumbup:


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## joethemechanic

Bend up some little U shaped springs, and insert them inside the clips










You might even be able to find some kind of flat spring that will suit the purpose off the shelf from a supplier


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## joethemechanic

Or bend the inside part of the clip out a little bit and fill the hollow part with silicone. Let it set up for about a day, and then put the meter back in. The silicone becomes a "deformed solid" spring. BTW most silicone will not burn at the tempatures encountered in a meter socket. Lots of times it is hard to burn the stuff with an OXY- Acc torch


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## guest

joethemechanic said:


> Bend up some little U shaped springs, and insert them inside the clips
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> You might even be able to find some kind of flat spring that will suit the purpose off the shelf from a supplier





joethemechanic said:


> Or bend the inside part of the clip out a little bit and fill the hollow part with silicone. Let it set up for about a day, and then put the meter back in. The silicone becomes a "deformed solid" spring. BTW most silicone will not burn at the tempatures encountered in a meter socket. Lots of times it is hard to burn the stuff with an OXY- Acc torch



Not bad ideas in theory, BUT...........

The heat damage and oxidation to the clips will still create a high resistance connection that will continue to burn up. The ONLY real fix is replacement. 

Now, it seems that most clips are held to the insulator in pretty much the same manner, so I would not, for a temp emergency fix ONLY, have no issue with removing the clip from one brand of socket and remounting it to the old socket's insulator if it is not badly damaged. 

Otherwise, just replace it. 

The main thing to keep in mind here is that 99.99% of all meters are ahead of any overcurrent protection, so a fault will continue to burn until the POCO cuts power or the serving transformer fails. 


No sound on this clip but a good fireworks show: (Note: The main issue with "Smart Meters" is that many POCOs have unqualified contractors installing them into already damaged sockets and/or damaging the socket during installation. IMHO _the meter itself_ is NOT the problem.)


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## joethemechanic

How do think they ended up with a fault at those burning meter sockets? Do you think they had a high resistance at the jaw/jaws that melted the insulation resulting in a fault to ground against the edge of the box, conduit, or connector?

BTW, I was figuring on cleaning the contact surfaces with something. Just not abrasive paper or cloth. The particles can embed into the metal preventing good contact. *(remember automotive points were always dressed with a file). Maybe if I had a spare set I'd clean them with tinners fluid and then neutralize them with some baking soda or something.

Not saying what is legal or not, but if it ran something important, and I had some reason that I couldn't replace it, I'd make it work and not have a failure.


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## BBQ

480sparky said:


> Been having a lot of service calls lately for Loss of Power. Turns out, it's because of loose jaws in the meter sockets.



Sounds like they need new meter socket(s).


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## guest

joethemechanic said:


> How do think they ended up with a fault at those burning meter sockets? *Do you think they had a high resistance at the jaw/jaws that melted the insulation resulting in a fault to ground against the edge of the box, conduit, or connector?*
> 
> BTW, I was figuring on cleaning the contact surfaces with something. Just not abrasive paper or cloth. The particles can embed into the metal preventing good contact. *(remember automotive points were always dressed with a file). Maybe if I had a spare set I'd clean them with tinners fluid and then neutralize them with some baking soda or something.
> 
> Not saying what is legal or not, but if it ran something important, and I had some reason that I couldn't replace it, I'd make it work and not have a failure.



Yep, it usually starts with the heat buildup at the jaws which melts down parts. With the smart meters in particular, the heat triggers internal failure of the electronics and the fun begins. Once enough burning happens, the jaw may release from its insulated support and the tension on the conductors will send it against the can. It becomes a vicious cycle that won't end until the power is cut off one way or another. 

In addition to the cleaning problem, an overheated clip's metallurgical properties are sometimes changed enough that even though the surface is clean, the overall resistance of the metal will still be high enough to cause heating. Your excellent suggestions in your previous post would handle the grip tension issue, but the resistance issue would still remain.

On a super critical situation (extreme cold where heat and power is a must, elderly folks with medical equipment, etc.) I would try out your ideas as a good temporary fix, but a replacement MUST still be done as soon as possible. 

There is too much risk involved in leaving a cleaned/repaired jaw in place IMHO.


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## McClary’s Electrical

Funny timing on this thread, I just robbed parts and fixed one yesterday.


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## joethemechanic

Hey, why is it you are just not replacing them? I find that customers like to see new parts, even if they don't really need them. It gives them something to point at when they are telling their friends about their dealings with the electrician. 

And if there arent some new boxes and wire to see, then their friends might be thinking they got ripped off by you. If their friends think they got ripped off, then your customer feels like he/she is stupid and a victim.

In a way, getting the lights back on is only part of it for the customer. they are going to call their friends, or go to work and talk about how their lights "all shorted out" and they had to spend 2,000 bucks to have it fixed. 2 G is a major expenditure for most people and they just gotta have something to point at when they say , that's what the guy put in" when their friends come over for a barbecue.

You guys who like to read should really take a look at a book by Thorstein Veblen called "The Theory of The Leasure Class" . Veblen was like the Tesla of economics. Very brilliant with an almost "other worldly" perception of society. But totally off the wall, He went out and lived in a shack someplace with no doors, not even bothering to chase the animals away that would wander in and out eating his food.










http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veblenhp.html

http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veb_toc.html


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## LARMGUY

joethemechanic said:


> Hey, why is it you are just not replacing them? I find that customers like to see new parts, even if they don't really need them. It gives them something to point at when they are telling their friends about their dealings with the electrician.
> 
> And if there arent some new boxes and wire to see, then their friends might be thinking they got ripped off by you. If their friends think they got ripped off, then your customer feels like he/she is stupid and a victim.
> 
> In a way, getting the lights back on is only part of it for the customer. they are going to call their friends, or go to work and talk about how their lights "all shorted out" and they had to spend 2,000 bucks to have it fixed. 2 G is a major expenditure for most people and they just gotta have something to point at when they say , that's what the guy put in" when their friends come over for a barbecue.
> 
> You guys who like to read should really take a look at a book by Thorstein Veblen called "The Theory of The Leasure Class" . Veblen was like the Tesla of economics. Very brilliant with an almost "other worldly" perception of society. But totally off the wall, He went out and lived in a shack someplace with no doors, not even bothering to chase the animals away that would wander in and out eating his food.
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> http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veblenhp.html
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> http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veb_toc.html


 
Looks more like an axe murderer to me.

I agree with the shiney new parts and would add they also like to show off the crusty, smoked, burned, crispy parts you removed from their house/business that was on the verge of causing a fire and could have destroyed all they have. "Superelectricguy arrived and with his vast knowlege found these and saved my life!" "Here's his number."

I found the fuse clip I pictured above by Googling it. It looks more like a broom handle clip to me than anything. 

I was just wondering if you cannot replace the parts needed does anything you use have to be electrically tested for the voltages/amps then I see the copper wire "U" shaped spring fix joethemechanic suggested.

If that is the case can you use a beam clamp and be done with it?


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## McClary’s Electrical

joethemechanic said:


> Hey, why is it you are just not replacing them? I find that customers like to see new parts, even if they don't really need them. It gives them something to point at when they are telling their friends about their dealings with the electrician.
> 
> And if there arent some new boxes and wire to see, then their friends might be thinking they got ripped off by you. If their friends think they got ripped off, then your customer feels like he/she is stupid and a victim.
> 
> In a way, getting the lights back on is only part of it for the customer. they are going to call their friends, or go to work and talk about how their lights "all shorted out" and they had to spend 2,000 bucks to have it fixed. 2 G is a major expenditure for most people and they just gotta have something to point at when they say , that's what the guy put in" when their friends come over for a barbecue.
> 
> You guys who like to read should really take a look at a book by Thorstein Veblen called "The Theory of The Leasure Class" . Veblen was like the Tesla of economics. Very brilliant with an almost "other worldly" perception of society. But totally off the wall, He went out and lived in a shack someplace with no doors, not even bothering to chase the animals away that would wander in and out eating his food.
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> http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veblenhp.html
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> http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veb_toc.html


 

Well sure if it's easy. But sometimes they're piped top and bottom, or sometimes sunken into masonry. I ususally don't do more than what's needed. I'm very well known around here for being efficient.


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## joethemechanic

mcclary's electrical said:


> I'm very well known around here for being efficient.


Me too, but I noticed this a long time ago when I use to do a lot of truck and heavy equipment repair.

For example, guy brings a truck to me with a power problem, He has had it to someone else and they replaced the injection pump and the turbo (big money items). He still has a power problem. I find something that shouldn't be there sucked up in a the suction side of the fuel system and caught in an elbow or a fitting. (very typical cause of low power in a diesel)

I charge 2 or 3 hundred for my time and replace no parts. Customer has a fit at my price even though now the truck dynos out at full power.

I bring up the point that he just paid probably 3 G plus to have parts replaced that didn't fix the problem.

Customer says "well it probably needed them too" (Customer is never going to admit to anyone, _not even himself_ that he was stupid and got ripped off)

The reason for this is most customers are phucking morons who are more impressed with shiny stuff than they are with intelligence.


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## joethemechanic

> Conspicuous consumption is spending on goods and services acquired mainly _for the purpose of displaying income or wealth_. In the mind of a conspicuous consumer, such display serves as a means of attaining or maintaining social status.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conspicuous_consumption

This is really the heart of Veblen's book. The new parts are the display of wealth and prowess to the customers friends and neighbors.


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## Southeast Power

We have a problem here that the new "Smart Meters" have a slimmer foot/tongue that plugs into the meter jaw. The poor fit is where we make our money replacing burned meter cans.

Yes, the whole thing has to go.


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## Southeast Power

joethemechanic said:


> Hey, why is it you are just not replacing them? I find that customers like to see new parts, even if they don't really need them. It gives them something to point at when they are telling their friends about their dealings with the electrician.
> 
> And if there arent some new boxes and wire to see, then their friends might be thinking they got ripped off by you. If their friends think they got ripped off, then your customer feels like he/she is stupid and a victim.
> 
> In a way, getting the lights back on is only part of it for the customer. they are going to call their friends, or go to work and talk about how their lights "all shorted out" and they had to spend 2,000 bucks to have it fixed. 2 G is a major expenditure for most people and they just gotta have something to point at when they say , that's what the guy put in" when their friends come over for a barbecue.
> 
> You guys who like to read should really take a look at a book by Thorstein Veblen called "The Theory of The Leasure Class" . Veblen was like the Tesla of economics. Very brilliant with an almost "other worldly" perception of society. But totally off the wall, He went out and lived in a shack someplace with no doors, not even bothering to chase the animals away that would wander in and out eating his food.
> 
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> http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veblenhp.html
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> http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veb_toc.html


Looks like something interesting to read. Do they have it in English? This looks like the King James version.


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## joethemechanic

jrannis said:


> Looks like something interesting to read. Do they have it in English? This looks like the King James version.



Yeah I know, I'm not sayin it is an easy read lmao


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## joethemechanic

Drill the clips out with the inside most pieces tapped to accept a screw to pinch the whole thing together, or use a speed nut or whatever. Drill and punch the sides of the can so you can get a long screw driver or or allen wrench in there to tighten them. Plug the meter in, tighten the screws, and seal the holes up some knock out plugs.

If the meter tabs interfere with the pinch screw, take the screws out, plug the meter in, get your drill with a long bit and drill through the tabs being careful not to F up the threads (F the poco) , put your screws back in, pinch everything up and plug your holes.


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## 480sparky

joethemechanic said:


> Hey, why is it you are just not replacing them?.........


Because the customer is too cheap.


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## BBQ

480sparky said:


> Because the customer is too cheap.


Good bye customer, good luck.


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## Bkessler

mcclary's electrical said:


> Funny timing on this thread, I just robbed parts and fixed one yesterday.


That's what I always did too, I probably did the same thing 5 times over my 5 years of trunkslamming. I dissected tons old panels and meters so I could have spare parts for repairs or would just get a new one of something just for parts and charge it to the job.


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## McClary’s Electrical

BBQ said:


> Good bye customer, good luck.


 
See my picture? It's not hard to loosen two screws. The can itself has no mechanically functioning value.


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## JmanAllen

I did a call yesterday they had lost a phase to the house I open the service disco there's a brunt wire and the plastic around the lug Is melted I replace all that but power was out of the other lug. Turns out the meter jaw had gotten loose and ruined that phase on the meter. Had to Replace that and wait for power company to get there with a new meter

Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


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## guest

joethemechanic said:


> *Drill the clips out with the inside most pieces tapped to accept a screw to pinch the whole thing together, or use a speed nut or whatever. Drill and punch the sides of the can so you can get a long screw driver or or allen wrench in there to tighten them. Plug the meter in, tighten the screws, and seal the holes up some knock out plugs.*
> 
> If the meter tabs interfere with the pinch screw, *take the screws out, plug the meter in, get your drill with a long bit and drill through the tabs being careful not to F up the threads *(F the poco) , put your screws back in, pinch everything up and plug your holes.


Ok, I was with you up until this post..WTF are you smokin? :laughing: (And why aren't you sharing it with us?) That whole idear is Cletis. 

That is a s**tload of work, you would have to cut the drop to drill the line side lugs safely, alignment is critical, and if you have a flush-mount can are you gonna open the freaking walls to get access to drill out the sides? 

With all the time and energy you'd waste doing that is is far easier to swap the guts completely that to go thru all that for such a half-assed fix.

Oh, and both the POCO and the FD will be super pissed if they try to pull the meter in case of emergency or disconnect for non-pay. And the POCO WILL prosecute YOU for tampering with the meter and socket. 

Just not worth it on many levels.


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## falconc12

Where I live, the hydro guys were telling me how the newer meters are a little thinner and don't fit tight enough into the jaws. Causing this problem.


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## joethemechanic

mxslick said:


> Oh, and both the POCO and the FD will be super pissed if they try to pull the meter in case of emergency or disconnect for non-pay. And the POCO WILL prosecute YOU for tampering with the meter and socket.


Damn you worry too much,

Nobody is prosecuting anyone, I just keep my mouth shut and tell them I want to call this guy






When they realize that he actually is my lawyer, most of their silly BS stops. I got no time to play games with the damn meter socket patrol


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## BBQ

mcclary's electrical said:


> See my picture? It's not hard to loosen two screws. The can itself has no mechanically functioning value.


Great, I will give them your number.:thumbsup:

I am not saying your way is wrong it is just not how I work.


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## joethemechanic

mcclary's electrical said:


> Funny timing on this thread, I just robbed parts and fixed one yesterday.













Why is your laptop on the ground?


But really this thing McClary did, He said these jaws screw into another manufacturer's can too.

Are all you guys scared to fab up some spacers or little adapter plates. As long as you get the jaws at the right depth and centered in the hole WTF is the difference. 

I remember machining up little mounting adapters and crap up out of bakelite. Doing that kinda chit at like 9. Not even sure where the bakelite came from. We had a pile of it upstars in the garage. Used, defects, and broken pieces. 

Particle mask? For what? Nahhhhhh don't need safety glasses, you ain't cutting metal


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## McClary’s Electrical

BBQ said:


> Great, I will give them your number.:thumbsup:
> 
> I am not saying your way is wrong it is just not how I work.


 
If the can is easy to change, I will. But sometimes, as 480 said, they're cheap, or sometimes the can is sunken into masonry, like this one:












You gonna chisel that brick? or loosen two screws?


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## BBQ

mcclary's electrical said:


> View attachment 10464
> 
> 
> 
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> You gonna chisel that brick? or loosen two screws?


If I could not get factory parts and they want me to fix it that brick is going to be chiseled by someone. 

Again, I am not faulting you, there is no doubt what you do can be as good as the using OEM parts. But my job is to limit the companies liability, to that end we use OEM parts or we replace the whole thing.

You just never know when a guy like Brian John is going to be hired to look at your work and the next thing you know pictures of your work are being ripped on an internet forum.


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## joethemechanic

BBQ said:


> If I could not get factory parts and they want me to fix it that brick is going to be chiseled by someone.
> 
> Again, I am not faulting you, there is no doubt what you do can be as good as the using OEM parts. But my job is to limit the companies liability, to that end we use OEM parts or we replace the whole thing.
> 
> You just never know when a guy like Brian John is going to be hired to look at your work and the next thing you know pictures of your work are being ripped on an internet forum.


Lets say this ain't a meter socket, in fact it could be anything. And if it dosen't function somebody is going to end up with 5 figures worth of costs Lost production, sewage spill, communications down, whatever

Are you going to use your head to get the damn thing to run and use whatever you can get to make the safest repair possible, and then taking safety precautions such as limiting access, fabricating guards, and maybe even supervising operations of that machine until production can be stopped or whatever you may need can be brought in?

Sorry but damn, I live for industrial emergencies.


You know, these days I should say 6 figures worth of loss


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## joethemechanic

You know there is a big difference between McClary doing a modification himself, and BBQ trying to explain to an Oompa Loompa on the phone how to do it.













Hell McClary is kinda like Wonka himself doing it, or I guess really like that guy from Clockwork Orange


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## BBQ

joethemechanic said:


> Lets say this ain't a meter socket, in fact it could be anything. And if it dosen't function somebody is going to end up with 5 figures worth of costs Lost production, sewage spill, communications down, whatever



Which would also mean the liability is that much hirer, maybe put you the hell out of business hirer. :laughing:





> Are you going to use your head to get the damn thing to run and use whatever you can get to make the safest repair possible, and then taking safety precautions such as limiting access, fabricating guards, and maybe even supervising operations of that machine until production can be stopped or whatever you may need can be brought in?


If I am a subcontractor hired to deal with this I would only make code compliant / factory compliant repairs. Their emergency is no reason to put the company I work for in a bad spot.





> Sorry but damn, I live for industrial emergencies.


I hear you, it can be interesting.

But I need to reign in my desire to McGyverit with the more grown up responsibility of protecting the company. Stuff does happen, stuff can go wrong and when it does you don't get a re-do. 



You know, these days I should say 6 figures worth of loss[/QUOTE]


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## BBQ

joethemechanic said:


> You know there is a big difference between McClary doing a modification himself, and BBQ trying to explain to an Oompa Loompa on the phone how to do it.



You did see that I did not fault him for it and said it could be just as good as OEM right? :laughing:


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## guest

joethemechanic said:


> Damn you worry too much,
> 
> Nobody is prosecuting anyone, I just keep my mouth shut and tell them I want to call this guy
> 
> 
> 
> When they realize that he actually is my lawyer, most of their silly BS stops. I got no time to play games with the damn meter socket patrol



Get real man, even a hotshot lawyer isn't gonna save your ass when your actions cause major property damage and/or loss of life. 

There are many things that I can say even I would "McGyver" in an emergency, but your suggestion in that post is wrong on so many levels. This is one time I am 100% on BBQ's side. 

And the POCO (and most industrial insurance companies) would be more than willing to put you out of business permanently, they have deeper pockets than you do. :laughing:


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## joethemechanic

My hotshot lawyer can undo damn near anything. He's the fixer.

In fact he just did a job for another friend (garage owner) who was accused of causing a death due to an improper motor vehicle inspection. The charges were also criminal in that case.

Nino ain't some ambulance chaser out of the phone book

Really, forget your high school civics class propaganda.


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## joethemechanic

mxslick said:


> And the POCO (and most industrial insurance companies) would be more than willing to put you out of business permanently, they have deeper pockets than you do. :laughing:




The POCO? WTF are they going to do to me? come on really, If I worried that much I would never be able to do business.


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## noarcflash

are those parts UL listed to go in another meter pan??


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## Jlarson

BBQ said:


> with the more grown up responsibility of protecting the company.


That responsibility really sucks :laughing:


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## McClary’s Electrical

noarcflash said:


> are those parts UL listed to go in another meter pan??


 

90.2 (b)


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## Bulldog1

joethemechanic said:


> You know there is a big difference between McClary doing a modification himself, and BBQ trying to explain to an Oompa Loompa on the phone how to do it.
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> 
> 
> *Hell McClary is kinda like Wonka himself doing it*, or I guess really like that guy from Clockwork Orange




Yet he called me a weirdo.....:laughing:


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## woodchuck2

I have swapped guts around before too from one brand to another so the can does not replacing. If i remember correctly you can unscrew the clip from the mount so you may be able to replace it if the new one is also screwed and not riveted. I see that issue you are having all the time, customer usually calls for a brown out in part of the home or the lights are flashing/dimming. Sometimes bending the clip helps but i usually push for an upgrade at that point or at least a new socket.


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## 480sparky

Update: The owner finally ponies up for a proper fix.










He also told me to order two more to have on hand the next time this comes up.


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## frenchelectrican

480.,

Why do only one side of the twin meter pedstal ? normally for moi I will take care both side at once and don't have to deal with hitting the termation box twice.

Merci,
Marc


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