# need help with drill selection



## boyelectric (Nov 11, 2011)

Was at work today and was using my drills (m18 hammerdrill and m18 impact driver). I feel that my hammer drill/driver just doesn't have enough power. I do love my impact though. I have invested about $250 into my set. My question is this, should I invest in a new brand? If yes then what and why if no why?


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

boyelectric said:


> Was at work today and was using my drills (m18 hammerdrill and m18 impact driver). I feel that my hammer drill/driver just doesn't have enough power. I do love my impact though. I have invested about $250 into my set. My question is this, should I invest in a new brand? If yes then what and why if no why?


You should have bought the one that ends in -22 model you bought the light duty one


----------



## fanelle (Nov 27, 2011)

I had the same problem with my 24v Ridgid hammer drill. I felt it was loosing power after about a year or so. I bought 2 new batteries and it is been fine ever since.


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

boyelectric said:


> Was at work today and was using my drills (m18 hammerdrill and m18 impact driver). I feel that my hammer drill/driver just doesn't have enough power. I do love my impact though. I have invested about $250 into my set. My question is this, should I invest in a new brand? If yes then what and why if no why?


My first cordless tool was a Milwaukee, I felt it was under powered and the hammering BPM was terrible. This was 14 years ago so different drill, but same company and quality. I am personally a Metabo guy for the good stuff ( cordless power drilling and hammering ) nothing comes close to the Metabo LTX 18v, however for every day use I'm a Makita guy, and I feel per dollar Makita is top of the line. Quality, power , speed, and comfort. Batteries for any brand can fail, mine in the metabo or makita's have never, but I also dont plan on having cordless tools forever, 2yrs battery life and I either buy a new drill or replace/ ( or add new) the battery. Any name brand drill should last min 4 years while standing up to a good beating.


----------



## chewy (May 9, 2010)

boyelectric said:


> Was at work today and was using my drills (m18 hammerdrill and m18 impact driver). I feel that my hammer drill/driver just doesn't have enough power. I do love my impact though. I have invested about $250 into my set. My question is this, should I invest in a new brand? If yes then what and why if no why?


Do you have the M18 2611? I just spent an afternoon sinking lag screws for a new BBQ area we are building, no complaints about power there.


----------



## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

The M18 2611 costs a lot more than the other Milwaukee M18 drills but it is worth it.


----------



## zwodubber (Feb 24, 2011)

I have the dewalt 18V hammer/impact and Milwaukee V18 hammer/impact. They are great for certain applications but my Bosch corded hammer drill is my go to tool and goes through concrete like butter


----------



## kevmanTA (Jul 20, 2010)

All I buy is DeWalt 18V XRP, seems to last through any abuse, like apprentices, employees... It's $40 to get the batteries rebuilt when they die, and if something in the drill breaks, it's very easy to get parts.


----------



## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

im going to be buying the greenlee 21v drill. i checked them out at major electric and they are awesome. all metal gears and made by panasonic. panasonic makes great cordless tools


----------



## Mptoth380 (Oct 9, 2011)

electricalperson said:


> im going to be buying the greenlee 21v drill. i checked them out at major electric and they are awesome. all metal gears and made by panasonic. panasonic makes great cordless tools


Let us know how that thing is, I've been curious about since I saw the ad a few weeks ago


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

Panasonic tools loose their gear/stop lock pretty easy. Other than that Panisonic tools are well built long lasting tools.


----------



## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Milwaukee tools overall are great to work with and last very well. But, they have never been the top in hammer drills electric or battery. I have the Makita 18v impact and a Hilti 14v on my truck, they are both good but the Hilti has more balls for driving lags without a pilot hole. And I also use the Hilti for driving teks into I beams on a regular basis and it gets more screws per battery than the Makita.


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

I bought the Hilti cordless hammerdrill when their cordless line up came out years ago. The motor burnt out using a 7/8" x 18" Auger , the same I still use ( when needed ) with my Makita and Metabo 18v's. I was drilling threw 2 2x4's so about 3" of wood. It was a side job in a newer house and I was pissed, granted maybe a bad motor and I was unlucky but it turned me off big time. Then never heard anyone say Hilti's held up their rep with the cordless line. For the price of the Hilti's I expect them to be Metabo and Festool quality, which they are far from.


----------



## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Flectric said:


> I bought the Hilti cordless hammerdrill when their cordless line up came out years ago. The motor burnt out using a 7/8" x 18" Auger , the same I still use ( when needed ) with my Makita and Metabo 18v's. I was drilling threw 2 2x4's so about 3" of wood. It was a side job in a newer house and I was pissed, granted maybe a bad motor and I was unlucky but it turned me off big time. Then never heard anyone say Hilti's held up their rep with the cordless line. For the price of the Hilti's I expect them to be Metabo and Festool quality, which they are far from.


 
I haven't used more than the 12v Hilti drill from their drill line but the impacts from them outlast any of the other brands our purchasing people have brought in. And I find their impacts in 12v and 14v out preform 18v and larger from the other brands we have in the toolcrib. Maybe you got a bad one, I think all the Metabo battery stuff we have in the shop is in a drum for repair/replace.


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

Like I said , I may have bought a bad/ defective Hilti drill. I dont know what kind of Metabo battery you have but the LTX li-ion 2.6AH 18v hasn't lost a beat in over a year, none of the three batteries I have has had any problems. And to note it's the abosloute strongest cordles drill I have ever seen. All the Metabo tools I have ( 5 ) are quality, strong tools that in no way are matched by any other than Festool quality. But I will compare it to the strongest rated Hilti out and get back to this thread.


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Ryobi baby! The price is right and if your smart enough to use corded tools for the bigger jobs they'll last a long time and they have tons of different tools that all use the same battery's. I just don't unibit a lot of 1" holes in steel. And I've had dewalt and bosch 18 volt in the past.


----------



## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Bkessler said:


> Ryobi baby! The price is right and if your smart enough to use corded tools for the bigger jobs they'll last a long time and they have tons of different tools that all use the same battery's. I just don't unibit a lot of 1" holes in steel. And I've had dewalt and bosch 18 volt in the past.


I will concede that they do offer a pretty cool array of bare tools, the 18v mitre saw looks pretty awesome, are you reading this Milwaukee! :laughing:


----------



## LARMGUY (Aug 22, 2010)

I've seen them in stores but never on a jobsite. I wonder why?

http://festools-online.com/index.ph...t18-3-lithium-ion-cordless-drill-3-0-set.html










*$625.00 :whistling2:*

*Seriously. These have a lot of features like the quick change chuck, driver, 90deg, and offset. All Festool tools come in a white case that is stackable, and lockable to the next case, container, vacuum, systainer, whatever. *


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

That is a premium german made power tool, they are pricey. And stands at the top with Metabo as a argument which is the absolute best.


----------



## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Flectric said:


> That is a premium german made power tool, they are pricey. And stands at the top with Metabo as a argument which is the absolute best.


Have you guys not had Metabo for very long over there? Their cordless stuff doesnt really live up to the reputation their corded tools built. 

I wouldnt take festool onto new construction, protool is designed for that -


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

Ive had a metabo cordless since 2000, that went strong till 2007 on Industrial electrical applications, now the LTX is beyond great, Question is have you actually tried a Metabo or do you speak on word of mouth. When I say something it's because I know first hand. Protool is fine as well but speaking down about Metabo is just wrong.


----------



## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Flectric said:


> Ive had a metabo cordless since 2000, that went strong till 2007 on Industrial electrical applications, now the LTX is beyond great, Question is have you actually tried a Metabo or do you speak on word of mouth. When I say something it's because I know first hand. Protool is fine as well but speaking down about Metabo is just wrong.


Well you seem to have had good luck with yours :thumbup:

Domestic, commerical or industrial really makes no difference, I would imagine Joe Sparky is putting his cordless with a 1 inch spade into old pine through alot more stress in Mrs Smiths living room than I ever would in heavy commerical and industrial settings.

I have not owned Metabo only used the cordless drill for a year or so as a company tool, we had 3 sets and the common problem was batteries holding a charge.


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

chewy said:


> Do you have the M18 2611? I just spent an afternoon sinking lag screws for a new BBQ area we are building, no complaints about power there.





amptech said:


> The M18 2611 costs a lot more than the other Milwaukee M18 drills but it is worth it.


 
You both missed my point. 
There is a 2611-20, which is light duty and comes in the cheap combo kits at big boox

And there is a 2611-22 which cost almost as much as the 4 tool combo kits alone. By the price he paid, he bought the cheap homeowner light duty one.


----------



## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*ditto*



Flectric said:


> Ive had a metabo cordless since 2000, that went strong till 2007 on Industrial electrical applications, now the LTX is beyond great, Question is have you actually tried a Metabo or do you speak on word of mouth. When I say something it's because I know first hand. Protool is fine as well but speaking down about Metabo is just wrong.


Ditto


----------



## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Mine*

Here is one of mine...


----------



## The Motts (Sep 23, 2009)

mcclary's electrical said:


> You both missed my point.
> There is a 2611-20, which is light duty and comes in the cheap combo kits at big boox


The 2611-20 is just the model number for the bare tool.



> And there is a 2611-22 which cost almost as much as the 4 tool combo kits alone. By the price he paid, he bought the cheap homeowner light duty one.


There is no 2611-22, the model number is 2611-24. Either way it's the same drill.


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

chewy said:


> Well you seem to have had good luck with yours :thumbup:
> 
> Domestic, commerical or industrial really makes no difference, I would imagine Joe Sparky is putting his cordless with a 1 inch spade into old pine through alot more stress in Mrs Smiths living room than I ever would in heavy commerical and industrial settings.
> 
> I have not owned Metabo only used the cordless drill for a year or so as a company tool, we had 3 sets and the common problem was batteries holding a charge.


Company tool are usually already junk, unless your the first and only guy to use it. Do you know how many companies have 20-30 scrap dewalt or milwaukee awaiting rebuilts. Now dewalt and milwaukee are not on the level of Metabo, but you get the point. Dont judge a tool based on a company tool. By the way Industrial work is easily 10x the strain on tools as resi. Residential work is a joke, and your supposed to drill the smallest holes possible in resi so you can firstop as little as possible, or do you hac jobs and dont bother protecting the customers future. 
Let me get this threw your head, if a 1" spade kills your drill, it's the dumb user not the drill that went wrong.


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

The Motts said:


> The 2611-20 is just the model number for the bare tool.
> 
> 
> 
> There is no 2611-22, the model number is 2611-24. Either way it's the same drill.


This should be good .........:laughing: 

You do realize mcclary's electrical owns more Milwaukee tools than anyone on earth?


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Flectric said:


> Company tool are usually already junk, unless your the first and only guy to use it. Do you know how many companies have 20-30 scrap dewalt or milwaukee awaiting rebuilts. Now dewalt and milwaukee are not on the level of Metabo, but you get the point. Dont judge a tool based on a company tool. By the way Industrial work is easily 10x the strain on tools as resi. Residential work is a joke, and your supposed to drill the smallest holes possible in resi so you can firstop as little as possible, or do you hac jobs and dont bother protecting the customers future.
> Let me get this threw your head, if a 1" spade kills your drill, it's the dumb user not the drill that went wrong.


Maybe it is just me, but why does it seem like you only think your own experience means anything at all?


----------



## The Motts (Sep 23, 2009)

BBQ said:


> This should be good .........:laughing:
> 
> You do realize mcclary's electrical owns more Milwaukee tools than anyone on earth?


Yes. I've seen the pictures.


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

The Motts said:


> The 2611-20 is just the model number for the bare tool.
> 
> There is no 2611-22, the model number is 2611-24. Either way it's the same drill.


You have bumped your head, because I own them both. But keep making stuff up


----------



## The Motts (Sep 23, 2009)

mcclary's electrical said:


> You have bumped your head, because I own them both. But keep making stuff up


I didn't make anything up. The information comes directly from Milwaukee's website:

2611-20

2611-24


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

BBQ said:


> Maybe it is just me, but why does it seem like you only think your own experience means anything at all?


My experience runs deep, threw 2 trades and many applications. I have seen and had interest in tools since I began. I test tools for fun. What I say is experience never do I repeat something someone else said to me. So your right it is my experience that I speak of. If someone is to speak of something they were told and have not seen, then there knowledge faulsified and very well could be wrong. 

Are you referring to the statment about company tools being junk?


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Flectric said:


> My experience runs deep, threw 2 trades and many applications. I have seen and had interest in tools since I began. I test tools for fun. What I say is experience never do I repeat something someone else said to me. So your right it is my experience that I speak of. If someone is to speak of something they were told and have not seen, then there knowledge faulsified and very well could be wrong.
> 
> Are you referring to the statment about company tools being junk?


Well your comment about residential being less hard on drill is a pretty dumb statement. Residential is just as hard as commercial and industrial, it's just totally different kind of hard.


----------



## B W E (May 1, 2011)

mcclary's electrical said:


> You have bumped your head, because I own them both. But keep making stuff up


Speaking of making things up, I never got your response on how to change the frequency of a maestro dimmer?


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

Bkessler said:


> Well your comment about residential being less hard on drill is a pretty dumb statement. Residential is just as hard as commercial and industrial, it's just totally different kind of hard.


What is hard about residential, does the 2x4 stump your drill, maybe it's the sheetrock. How about the structual form that undercoats stucco now a days. Lets go one harder, are you dumb enough to try to drill a 1" hole using a 18v cordless hammer drill threw concrete. I'm done with the thread it is going no where, way off the O.P. question. 
Since I'm in the mood to stir the pot, Yes residential is easy work for unskilled labor, nothing about resi is even remotely hard and if thats all you do dont call yourself an electrician.


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Flectric said:


> What is hard about residential, does the 2x4 stump your drill, maybe it's the sheetrock. How about the structual form that undercoats stucco now a days. Lets go one harder, are you dumb enough to try to drill a 1" hole using a 18v cordless hammer drill threw concrete. I'm done with the thread it is going no where, way off the O.P. question.
> Since I'm in the mood to stir the pot, Yes residential is easy work for unskilled labor, nothing about resi is even remotely hard and if thats all you do dont call yourself an electrician.


To a certain degree your correct, but whats so hard about commercial or industrial. You bend pipe and pull wire through it. Because everything is steel instead of wood it's turns to rocket science? Your really ignorant.


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Flectric said:


> unskilled labor, nothing about resi is even remotely hard and if thats all you do dont call yourself an electrician.


OK, you tell us, what is so hard that you do?


----------



## B W E (May 1, 2011)

Flectric said:


> What is hard about residential, does the 2x4 stump your drill, maybe it's the sheetrock. How about the structual form that undercoats stucco now a days. Lets go one harder, are you dumb enough to try to drill a 1" hole using a 18v cordless hammer drill threw concrete. I'm done with the thread it is going no where, way off the O.P. question.
> Since I'm in the mood to stir the pot, Yes residential is easy work for unskilled labor, nothing about resi is even remotely hard and if thats all you do dont call yourself an electrician.


You sound brilliant. Not gonna argue with you, because, well, clearly you have everything figured out and you'd probably force me into a nasty spiral of self-defeating statements before i even knew what what happening. But, you do sound brilliant.


----------



## OaklandElec (Jan 4, 2011)

Maybe your doing some kind of industrial that I 've never seen. What I've done uses mor corded tools then cordless. Is your threader cordless? What tools/applications are you talking about. I typically use my impact and a bandsaw. What's harder about that then resi?


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

being able to make money wiring houses and still be competitive is one of the toughest things in the electrical field.


----------



## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

Bkessler said:


> Well your comment about residential being less hard on drill is a pretty dumb statement. Residential is just as hard as commercial and industrial, it's just* totally different kind of hard*.


I had a girl tell me that once. Never know what she meant by that?


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Cletis said:


> I had a girl tell me that once. Never know what she meant by that?


Oh, you used to date girls?


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

Any of you resi guys ever re-copper DC buss bars. Run RGRC, or even know what RHH wire is. If you think resi is as hard as industrial, it's clear you have zero experience in industrial and install can lights for a living. How about get on top a of cable tray holding 4160v to add a fiber cable for monoriting. How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them. You people have zero idea what industrial is. I could go on but I said I was done with this thread, just want to explain so you know your out of the league.


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Flectric said:


> Any of you resi guys ever re-copper DC buss bars. Run RGRC, or even know what RHH wire is. If you think resi is as hard as industrial, it's clear you have zero experience in industrial and install can lights for a living. How about get on top a of cable tray holding 4160v to add a fiber cable for monoriting. How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them. You people have zero idea what industrial is. I could go on but I said I was done with this thread, just want to explain so you know your out of the league.


I think only inexperience and ignorance, possible attitude ,is what make things tough in this industry. Sounds like you suffer from all three. Either that or you suffer from retarditus.


----------



## Techy (Mar 4, 2011)

by the way guys.... the light duty drill is the


2602-20


and the heavy duty is 2611-20, as above.


----------



## chewy (May 9, 2010)

Flectric said:


> Any of you resi guys ever re-copper DC buss bars. Run RGRC, or even know what RHH wire is. If you think resi is as hard as industrial, it's clear you have zero experience in industrial and install can lights for a living. How about get on top a of cable tray holding 4160v to add a fiber cable for monoriting. How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them. You people have zero idea what industrial is. I could go on but I said I was done with this thread, just want to explain so you know your out of the league.


"You have zero idea what industrial is all about, see these boots? non magnetizing, moisture wicking bandanna, company polo and super roomy pants for industrial applications"


----------



## B W E (May 1, 2011)

Flectric said:


> Any of you resi guys ever re-copper DC buss bars. Run RGRC, or even know what RHH wire is. If you think resi is as hard as industrial, it's clear you have zero experience in industrial and install can lights for a living. How about get on top a of cable tray holding 4160v to add a fiber cable for monoriting. How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them. You people have zero idea what industrial is. I could go on but I said I was done with this thread, just want to explain so you know your out of the league.


You seem like a huge arrogant prick. Not saying you ARE a huge arrogant prick, but you SEEM like a huge arrogant prick. However, you do also seem like an immeasurably talented electrician. In fact, I'd say one of the finest I've ever come across. Surely far more advanced than the likes of anything on this forum. Perhaps you should change your screen name to "The Answer."


----------



## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

kevmanTA said:


> All I buy is DeWalt 18V XRP, seems to last through any abuse, like apprentices, employees... It's $40 to get the batteries rebuilt when they die, and if something in the drill breaks, it's very easy to get parts.


That is all we buy but with the nano batteries. If I have more than one or two holes to drill in concrete or brick I break out the bulldog hammer drill. In hard brick it drills holes a lot quicker than the battery ones. I haven't used a hammer only battery drill to compare it to a corded one.


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

The Motts said:


> I didn't make anything up. The information comes directly from Milwaukee's website:
> 
> 2611-20
> 
> 2611-24


Well I mixed the numbers up, but my point is the same. There is a light duty one and a heavy duty one. He bought the light duty.


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Heavy duty. There is a -20 and -22 model


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Flectric said:


> Any of you resi guys ever re-copper DC buss bars. Run RGRC, or even know what RHH wire is. If you think resi is as hard as industrial, it's clear you have zero experience in industrial and install can lights for a living. How about get on top a of cable tray holding 4160v to add a fiber cable for monoriting. How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them. You people have zero idea what industrial is. I could go on but I said I was done with this thread, just want to explain so you know your out of the league.


What an idiot


----------



## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Flectric said:


> Any of you resi guys ever re-copper DC buss bars. Run RGRC, or even know what RHH wire is. If you think resi is as hard as industrial, it's clear you have zero experience in industrial and install can lights for a living. How about get on top a of cable tray holding 4160v to add a fiber cable for monoriting. How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them. You people have zero idea what industrial is. I could go on but I said I was done with this thread, just want to explain so you know your out of the league.



Knowledge is power. I have done industrial, commercial and residential. They all suck. If you can't do all three YOU are out of your league. Just saying.....:whistling2:


----------



## randas (Dec 14, 2008)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Heavy duty. There is a -20 and -22 model


Thats still not the top notch model. The 2611 has 30% more torque than the 2602. If it comes with the side handle you got yourself the beast :thumbsup:


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Flectric said:


> Any of you resi guys ever re-copper DC buss bars.


No, and neither did you, you sent them out for that.



> Run RGRC, or even know what RHH wire is. If you think resi is as hard as industrial, it's clear you have zero experience in industrial and install can lights for a living. How about get on top a of cable tray holding 4160v to add a fiber cable for monoriting.


Well I have done a ton of commercial and some industrial, I know this will crush your ego but it ain't rocket science,





> How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them.


OK, I am calling you on this, please provide some outside reference for this need for 'non magnetizing boots because the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them' because I am calling bull chit on that one otherwise. :laughing:




> You people have zero idea what industrial is. I could go on but I said I was done with this thread, just want to explain so you know your out of the league.


And you don't have a clue at all what each of us does at work, but hell keep it up, we can always use another clown around here. :thumbup:


----------



## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Mine*

Metabo LTX 


Max. Tightening Torque *885 in. lbs.*


Just sayin...


----------



## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*Comparison*

Maximum Torque

Our compact, powerful motor has the highest continuous torque in its class. And our patented torque clutch system extends the adjustable torque range…in comparison to most manufacturers, we’ve nearly doubled the available range, giving you the flexibility you need to perform a wider range of applications

*36% More torque *


----------



## randas (Dec 14, 2008)

Put down the beer and go back to highschool. 750 vs 885 isn't even close to a 36% difference


----------



## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

mcclary's electrical said:


> Heavy duty. There is a -20 and -22 model


This ain't the heavy-duty model.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

randas said:


> Put down the beer and go back to highschool. 750 vs 885 isn't even close to a 36% difference


 
Like your comparing of 525 to 750 of the Milwaukees is 30% difference? Calculate again, 30% of 525 isn't 225.


----------



## randas (Dec 14, 2008)

Your right its 40 something percent :thumbup:


----------



## Flectric (Nov 19, 2011)

Comment 1 - Yea we did re-copper bars for 6 straight days and it was by no easy means of work. Re-coppering is a task of grinding down copper bars till the pits, oxidation, and debris is gone, then re-coating them in a epoxy copper paste that hardens and holds the same specs ( I believe this can be done twice before re-installing new bars. )
Comment 2- Niether commercial or industrial is rocket science, why must I keep explaining this. But it is damn sure harder and needs a better professional grade tool and yes a mechanically inclinded technician. 
Comment 3- All I can say is next time your around a station other than your residential distrubution, ask the guys working there what I'm talking about. Because it was mandatory. 
By the way, I'm not interested in arguing over a forum about my history. I'm beyond my electrical career and was just trying to give an extra opinion about tools thats why you'll never see my name else where in the forum. So if you feel the need to say more, P/M me. Because you are wasting thread space for no reason.


----------



## Bkessler (Feb 14, 2007)

Flectric said:


> Comment 1 - Yea we did re-copper bars for 6 straight days and it was by no easy means of work. Re-coppering is a task of grinding down copper bars till the pits, oxidation, and debris is gone, then re-coating them in a epoxy copper paste that hardens and holds the same specs ( I believe this can be done twice before re-installing new bars. )
> Comment 2- Niether commercial or industrial is rocket science, why must I keep explaining this. But it is damn sure harder and needs a better professional grade tool and yes a mechanically inclinded technician.
> Comment 3- All I can say is next time your around a station other than your residential distrubution, ask the guys working there what I'm talking about. Because it was mandatory.
> By the way, I'm not interested in arguing over a forum about my history. I'm beyond my electrical career and was just trying to give an extra opinion about tools thats why you'll never see my name else where in the forum. So if you feel the need to say more, P/M me. Because you are wasting thread space for no reason.


Why didn't you say earlier you had to
slather on some epoxy paste, that's way harder than trying to figure out what some gardener did to some of these houses here in California.


----------



## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

Flectric said:


> Comment 1 - Yea we did re-copper bars for 6 straight days and it was by no easy means of work. Re-coppering is a task of grinding down copper bars till the pits, oxidation, and debris is gone, then re-coating them in a epoxy copper paste that hardens and holds the same specs ( I believe this can be done twice before re-installing new bars. )
> Comment 2- Niether commercial or industrial is rocket science, why must I keep explaining this. But it is damn sure harder and needs a better professional grade tool and yes a mechanically inclinded technician.
> Comment 3- All I can say is next time your around a station other than your residential distrubution, ask the guys working there what I'm talking about. Because it was mandatory.
> By the way, I'm not interested in arguing over a forum about my history. I'm beyond my electrical career and was just trying to give an extra opinion about tools thats why you'll never see my name else where in the forum. So if you feel the need to say more, P/M me. Because you are wasting thread space for no reason.


You're just too big headed. Please stop posting.


----------



## mnelectrician (Dec 1, 2008)

mcclary's electrical said:


> You're just too big headed. Please stop posting.


Amen to that!


----------



## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Flectric said:


> Comment 1 - Yea we did re-copper bars for 6 straight days and it was by no easy means of work. Re-coppering is a task of grinding down copper bars till the pits, oxidation, and debris is gone, then re-coating them in a epoxy copper paste that hardens and holds the same specs ( I believe this can be done twice before re-installing new bars. )



Sounds like mindless work for laborers.




> Comment 2- Niether commercial or industrial is rocket science, why must I keep explaining this. But it is damn sure harder and needs a better professional grade tool and yes a mechanically inclinded technician.


Keep telling yourself that, but it is not true.




> Comment 3- All I can say is next time your around a station other than your residential distrubution, ask the guys working there what I'm talking about. Because it was mandatory.


No, this is on you. Here is what you said.



Flectric said:


> How about replace a fuse in a substation in a insulated boom with ten at the bottom wearing non magnetizing boots becuase the ground would lock your behind to the floor without them.


If you were doing this work then you should be able to explain it. If you can't explain it then you were not qualified to be doing it.:no:




> By the way, I'm not interested in arguing over a forum about my history.


Then stop slamming others here, it is very simple.


----------



## Amish Electrician (Jan 2, 2010)

Not to pee in anyone's lemonade here ... but isn't the thread about the OP's question, and not about listening to some guy brag his **** is so big he steps on it often?

"Loss of power (or performance) over time." Yup. Seems to happen to every DeWalt Tool I've had. Oddly enough, the problems seem to go away after I have the batteries rebuilt. I'm still using Ni-Cds, and that might be the problem.

My Li-ion tools, by comparison, caution me that it will take several complete charge / discharge cycles to bring the tools to their top performance. It does seem that the first charge (by me, not the factory charge) doesn't last very long.

I think, though, that the OP is asking the wrong question about his hammer drill. IMO, no hammer-drill is suitable for anything larger than a 1/4" hole in cinder block. Not even a corded Hilti.

For anything larger, or harder, I say: get a real roto-hammer! The drive mechanism actually hammers the bit forward - unlike a hammer-drill, whose mechanism can be best compared to two poker chips sliding over each other.


----------



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Flectric said:


> Comment 1 - Yea we did re-copper bars for 6 straight days and it was by no easy means of work. Re-coppering is a task of grinding down copper bars till the pits, oxidation, and debris is gone, then re-coating them in a epoxy copper paste that hardens and holds the same specs ( I believe this can be done twice before re-installing new bars. )
> Comment 2- Niether commercial or industrial is rocket science, why must I keep explaining this. But it is damn sure harder and needs a better professional grade tool and yes a mechanically inclinded technician.
> Comment 3- All I can say is next time your around a station other than your residential distrubution, ask the guys working there what I'm talking about. Because it was mandatory.
> By the way, I'm not interested in arguing over a forum about my history. I'm beyond my electrical career and was just trying to give an extra opinion about tools thats why you'll never see my name else where in the forum. So if you feel the need to say more, P/M me. Because you are wasting thread space for no reason.


 
Some guys just post to boost their post count I think.


----------



## Ampere (Jul 16, 2010)

I forgot the question


----------

