# Gable Exhaust Fans



## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> I have a gable end exhaust fan I need to install. I've looked at a few places online but was interested in getting some suggestions on which ones have worked well for you in the past. I'll need a 1000 CFM minimum. The siding is vynil and the structure is wood frame. Any ideas? :thumbsup:


 

United Refrigeration is fairly priced or a Dayton from Grainger.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

I was thinking Grainger too. 

This looks pretty easy to install. :thumbsup:


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> I was thinking Grainger too.
> 
> This looks pretty easy to install. :thumbsup:


Very easy, sometimes U Ref. is half the price. We get attic fans from them 
and roof portals (adjustable tit type) for about half price of other suppliers.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

If you only want to ventilate the attic, make sure you have enough roof vents.

You can only exhaust as much air as you can pull in through the vents.

I did one of those last year and I set it up where the HO can leave the attic hole open and the fan draws air in from the downstairs windows


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I would just go to the big box store and get them since my supplier does not stock the gable end fans.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> I was thinking Grainger too.
> 
> This looks pretty easy to install. :thumbsup:


I like the one you posted here but I would make sure that it had a screen to keep the varmits out when the louvers get stuck.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

This'll be used in a storage space behind a knee wall on the 2nd floor of a 2-storie detached garage.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

Why not use one of these, then you don't have to work with the vinyl siding 

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5C042?Pid=search


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Black4Truck said:


> Why not use one of these, then you don't have to work with the vinyl siding
> 
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5C042?Pid=search


 

That is much less than half price at United Refrigeration.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

randomkiller said:


> That is much less than half price at United Refrigeration.


I know Grainger can be high on some things, but _half _for the same fan?


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## mattsilkwood (Sep 21, 2008)

Black4Truck said:


> I know Grainger can be high on some things, but _half _for the same fan?


 That sounds just about right for Grainger.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Black4Truck said:


> I know Grainger can be high on some things, but _half _for the same fan?


 
Actually less than half. The gable fans run $70- $120 at the orange box,
we pay like $40-$60 for those. United puts out a seasonal circular, the 
attic fans with t-stat are $49-$89 in the spring edition. Their stuff tends to be made in the USA for them and they are great with returns and all.
When our purchasers are shopping non brand spec they find the lowest price and least callbacks/issues. The only thing we ever get big box seems to be wire and metal wall cases.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

randomkiller said:


> Actually less than half. The gable fans run $70- $120 at the orange box,
> we pay like $40-$60 for those. United puts out a seasonal circular, the
> attic fans with t-stat are $49-$89 in the spring edition. Their stuff tends to be made in the USA for them and they are great with returns and all.
> When our purchasers are shopping non brand spec they find the lowest price and least callbacks/issues. The only thing we ever get big box seems to be wire and metal wall cases.


I have to try them next time I need a fan.. thanks for the info. :thumbsup:


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Black4Truck said:


> I have to try them next time I need a fan.. thanks for the info. :thumbsup:


 
Anytime, the main thing we go to them for is roof portals, we don't get them anywhere else ever (our purchasers say the price is that much different).

They even make or have made their own handtools. I have had good luck getting motors from them also, they have a lot of locations. Put out a catalog the size of the phone book.


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## B4T (Feb 10, 2009)

There is a United Refrigeration in Ronkonkoma, which is a few doors down from my alarm supplier.

I have gone past there front door hundreds of times and never thought of stopping in..


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## leland (Dec 28, 2007)

Black4Truck said:


> If you only want to ventilate the attic, make sure you have enough roof vents.
> 
> You can only exhaust as much air as you can pull in through the vents.
> 
> I did one of those last year and I set it up where the HO can leave the attic hole open and the fan draws air in from the downstairs windows



The above is a perfect point.

With out any make up air- your wasting time and money.
You need a good air flow or nothing is happening.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

Black4Truck said:


> There is a United Refrigeration in Ronkonkoma, which is a few doors down from my alarm supplier.
> 
> I have gone past there front door hundreds of times and never thought of stopping in..


 
We have a salesman come in for quotes, drop off flyers,etc. I have been to many of their locations over the years and they seem to keep a good stock on hand, they carry a lot of small electrical fittings in small quanity packs to get you by in a jam. Many if their locations are in industrial parks where we have customers


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Its usually a big debate calculating if the energy consumed by the fan motor and installation cost will ever be recovered by the HO.
We have some solar powered units around here, and even without the installation cost, the payback is not that good.

This one is set up by the manufacturer so buyer beware........

http://www.atticbreeze.net/Estimated Savings.htm


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

jrannis said:


> Its usually a big debate calculating if the energy consumed by the fan motor and installation cost will ever be recovered by the HO.
> We have some solar powered units around here, and even without the installation cost, the payback is not that good.
> 
> This one is set up by the manufacturer so buyer beware........
> ...


 
If your attic is cooler the house will cool that much faster, saving some energy in the long run. Having been in more than my fair share of attics over the years those that have no fan or air circulation will make a believer out of you.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

randomkiller said:


> If your attic is cooler the house will cool that much faster, saving some energy in the long run. Having been in more than my fair share of attics over the years those that have no fan or air circulation will make a believer out of you.


I know but you have to assume at least an R-11 insulation value.
The temperature difference between my attic, 120 degrees, and the 10' drywall ceiling in my house, 79degrees with R-11 (4" of fiberglass) is 40 degrees.
How much can a small fan improve my situation?
I have vents in my eves and ridge vent at the top of my roof.

There are better applications out there but not much for my situation.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

jrannis said:


> I know but you have to assume at least an R-11 insulation value.
> The temperature difference between my attic, 120 degrees, and the 10' drywall ceiling in my house, 79degrees with R-11 (4" of fiberglass) is 40 degrees.
> How much can a small fan improve my situation?
> I have vents in my eves and ridge vent at the top of my roof.
> ...


 Jannis.....do you have a clay roof...? I did some attic work for my inlaws one time and I was amazed how cool their attic acually was...I mean it was still warm but not 120 by by any stretch....They have a tile roof and a big long vent on the ridge.


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

Asphalt shingles. Some newer houses have a small looking barrel tile that we call "S" tile.
Its really rare to find houses built after the 1950s with real barrel tile.
The House I grew up in had flat cement tiles painted white.


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## s.kelly (Mar 20, 2009)

The asphalt shingles are another reason to vent the roof properly. A hot roof/attic is harder on the shingles. I have a non vented roof I plan to attend to this summer for that very reason.


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## RIVETER (Sep 26, 2009)

jrannis said:


> I know but you have to assume at least an R-11 insulation value.
> The temperature difference between my attic, 120 degrees, and the 10' drywall ceiling in my house, 79degrees with R-11 (4" of fiberglass) is 40 degrees.
> How much can a small fan improve my situation?
> I have vents in my eves and ridge vent at the top of my roof.
> ...


If your attic is 120 degrees, it is too hot up there. High temperature equals high pressure and if you don't get rid of it properly it will pressure its way down through every nook and cranny, even insulation to the living space. I would have an adequate size fan controlled to 95 degrees in the attic space.:thumbsup:


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## Innovative (Jan 26, 2010)

In Florida you would need a few massive fans to get rid of the heat in the attic. 
Our house is build to LEED certifications, with R-30 batts of insulation, a foil thermal barrier under the roof sheathing, insulating and fireproofing foam on the trusses and roof sheathing, a light colored galvalume roof with 300+ feet of ridge vents and our attic still runs 110 to 125 degrees all year round. (we dont live to LEED standards tho, with a 650 per month electric bill and air on 68-69)The only attics in Florida that I have seen cooler then 95 degrees are ones that are completely shaded by trees. 
Attic fans in Florida have a terrible ROI, most dont last but 1 or 2 years and are a complete waste of money. I dont know about other places, but they sure dont work in Florida


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

Magnettica said:


> I was thinking Grainger too.
> 
> This looks pretty easy to install. :thumbsup:


I've done those and they are easy.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

Insulationg the roof joists with R19 REALLY helps.


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

BuzzKill said:


> Insulationg the roof joists with R19 REALLY helps.


 
It also rots the roof deck out from the condensation formed on the underside.


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## BuzzKill (Oct 27, 2008)

randomkiller said:


> It also rots the roof deck out from the condensation formed on the underside.


that's why you use vented styrofoam underneath the insulation


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## randomkiller (Sep 28, 2007)

BuzzKill said:


> that's why you use vented styrofoam underneath the insulation


 
All depends on the size of the roof rafters.


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