# Troubleshooting GFCI - Residential



## cdnelectrician (Mar 14, 2008)

I wouldn't trust a pentester (tic tracer) for testing GFI's, Use a multimeter or vol-con to test GFI's. I usually test GFI's with my vol-con (wiggy) test from hot to ground and because the current draw is more than 5mA it will trip the GFI and you know it is functioning properly... Is the 5th receptacle a different brand from the rest?


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## Shifty (Sep 29, 2008)

Yes all the receptacles are the same brand.

I completely removed the "faulty" receptacle and replaced with one from the kitchen that was working fine. 

The old bathroom GFCI that wasn't working now installed in the kitchen works perfectly.

The GFCI from the kitchen that worked fine, now installed in the bathroom has the same problem as originally stated.

A few more details: ... not sure if any of this will matter but included it to be more thorough.

- The bathroom is all wired on a single circuit, the fan, the light, and the sink GFCI. No load coming off the GFCI.

- The kitchen sink GFCI location that i used for the swap has a load side receptacle that functioned perfectly with both receptacles installed.

So I guess that rules out the receptacle... which confuses me more.


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## AussieApprentice (Aug 16, 2008)

Shifty said:


> Yes all the receptacles are the same brand.
> 
> I completely removed the "faulty" receptacle and replaced with one from the kitchen that was working fine.
> 
> ...


I gather that the GFCI devices you are talking about are receptacles with GFCI incorporated. After it has been tripped there is still voltage on the supply side and you are probably picking up that. I have a non contact voltage detector that can light up at a range of more than six inches sometimes. It is probably a matter of the number and orientation of wires behind the receptacle.


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## Shifty (Sep 29, 2008)

yes, they are GFCI receptacles not standards on GFCI breakers, so that could be a plausible explanation for why the TIC tracer is still picking up heat... It is just weird because the other 4 didnt do that and some of the boxes have wires jammed packed, but this one is relatively emtpy.


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## cdnelectrician (Mar 14, 2008)

I don't think there is anything wrong with your GFCI. The Tic Tracer is NOT a reliable way to test the receptacle. Use a real meter to test it out! If your still in question replace the GFI.


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## Shifty (Sep 29, 2008)

I appreciate the help guys.

Thanks


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## wptski (Jun 30, 2008)

Shifty:

What's the voltage range of your TIC tracer? I find that the Fluke 20-90VAC model will detect voltage on a tripped GFCI if properly positioned but the Fluke 90-1000VAC model won't.


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## Shifty (Sep 29, 2008)

50-1000


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## wptski (Jun 30, 2008)

Shifty said:


> 50-1000


That might be the reason why.


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

also could be the plug is hooked up wrong ...as in power is hooked up to the slave side of the plug and the slave is hooked up to power ?


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## Effectively Grounded (Dec 15, 2008)

Use a DMM and you will know if there even is a problem.


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## Effectively Grounded (Dec 15, 2008)

And, why is this post in Services?


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

..just plug something into it and then hit the test button and see if it turns off sounds like a good idea


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

volt tics pick up the magnetic induction around a conductor or device or whatever when it is energized. (They go crazy around flourescent bulbs) Sometimes, the induction field can be stronger around some areas and not others. Cdnelectrician is right; volt tic not a good way to troubleshoot, good for quick check for hot wires, but really need a multi-meter or a wiggy.


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## JPRO2 (Dec 17, 2008)

yah tics are only really good for quick checks, they dont tell you much about the circuit other then its live or dead and sometimes its not even good at that .


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