# Fuse panel w/ snap switches!



## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Pic #1 what I saw when I got there. 

Pic #2 replaced a fault switch that was arcing

Pic #3 the untightened terminal that caused the arcing. The wire was welded to the switch.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

They even had a 3 way


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*fingers*



Magnettica said:


> Pic #1 what I saw when I got there.
> 
> Pic #2 replaced a fault switch that was arcing
> 
> Pic #3 the untightened terminal that caused the arcing. The wire was welded to the switch.


It didn't even looked burnt or blackened around loose screw. 

Damn, you have fat stubby hands :laughing:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Cletis said:


> It didn't even looked burnt or blackened around loose screw.
> 
> Damn, you have fat stubby hands :laughing:


That's what she said!


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

did you sell them a new panel :thumbsup:


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

How are those switches mounted? Levitating Levitons?

-John


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Frank Adams made a panel that had a snap switch at every fuseholder. I've only ever seen them installed in very old retail spaces. I guess that's how they turned the lights and stuff on every morning.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> Frank Adams made a panel that had a snap switch at every fuseholder. I've only ever seen them installed in very old retail spaces. I guess that's how they turned the lights and stuff on every morning.


This was actually a Federal. 

That's how these were set up. Half the circuit was now used for receptacles so I suspect they leave the switches on. This was a little gift basket store. 


Landlord is a slumlord who stiffed the last electrician who did the 6-gang service so I'm not even going to ask about upgrading the panel. I just noted on my invoice that it was improperly grounded, missing panel cover screws, and should be updated for safety.


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## crazymurph (Aug 19, 2009)

Magnettica said:


> Pic #1 what I saw when I got there.
> 
> Pic #2 replaced a fault switch that was arcing
> 
> Pic #3 the untightened terminal that caused the arcing. The wire was welded to the switch.


I would like to see the cover for that cob job.


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## mrmike (Dec 10, 2010)

Pretty nasty looking & dangerous ! How are those switches mounted ? Can't see behind them. Also what is that red wire on the neutral & jumpered at that? 
Good fix anyhow:thumbsup:


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

crazymurph said:


> I would like to see the cover for that cob job.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

mrmike said:


> Pretty nasty looking & dangerous ! How are those switches mounted ? Can't see behind them. Also what is that red wire on the neutral & jumpered at that?
> Good fix anyhow:thumbsup:


Imagine a a piece of sheet metal in the shape of a 'V' with threaded 6/32" holes. I guess for the time it was a phenomenal design but not more than a hunk of junk by todays standards. 

Glad you guys enjoyed these pics.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

I'm more surprised that it actually had 20 A instead of 30's:laughing:


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## Semi-Ret Electrician (Nov 10, 2011)

What did the inspector say?:whistling2:


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

cool shots Mag

~CS~


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

Cool pics man....that bottom left fuseholder looks like it is totally arc'ed up though.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

Semi-Ret Electrician said:


> What did the inspector say?:whistling2:


From what I understand the inspector had forced the landlord to upgrade the service and then he wound up screwing over the EC on payment. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, I documented it on the invoice but have no intention of working directly for the landlord in the future. The renter sure as hell doesn't want to pay for it either so this'll sit here until the fire burns it. Then my invoice might be referred to and I should be clear of any liability. I hope. :whistling2:


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## retiredsparktech (Mar 8, 2011)

InPhase277 said:


> I'm more surprised that it actually had 20 A instead of 30's:laughing:


Those Mini-breakers are only good for about 13 amps continuous load. A real 20 amp breaker is only good for 16 amps continuous load.


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