# DMX Lighting



## RAD COM (Mar 3, 2019)

have now connected my system in a working environment for a client. The Stick is connected to the Color Kinectic driver via a Cat-5 wire that is just under 100' in length. The only problem I am having is the with the contact closure feature. I am using a stand alone Leviton wall box timer to trigger the system on at sunset. The system worked perfectly when I connected the timer directly to the Stick but when I added in the 100' run of CAT-5 the Stick is seeing too much resistance and thinks it is an open circuit. It will turn the system on but not off. If I touch the contact closure leads together at the Stick it function flawlessly. The timer I am using adds @ 3 Ohms resistance to the circuit. The solution I see is one of four options, find a timer that has less resistance, add in a mini relay between the timer and the Stick, or relocate the timer closer to the Stick, or upgrade the Stick power supply. Does anyone know if upgrade the Stick power supply would have any impact? Right now I am using a 6 Volt 350mA unit where the positive and negative are powered by single conductors of the CAt-5. If I provide more power on the input of the Stick will it therefore provide more power to the contact closure?


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

In this day and age I'd have used a IP based system rather than DMX... IMHO, DMX is for stages and live shows.

I have no experience with these systems, so unfortunately I cannot help. Someone else might be able to.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.


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## MHElectric (Oct 14, 2011)

Wow man. Your asking questions way deeper into the lighting controls realm than I have any clue about. I just install it. People with bigger brains than me design it. 

We used to have a guy here named "lighting man" (or something) and he knew everything about lighting controls and all that stuff. Don't know if he still is around but you might shoot him a PM. 

Good luck.


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## Easy (Oct 18, 2017)

I actually tried to find some literature on the Stick 2 controller and came up empty handed. Slick 1, Slick GU2, KE2 and may others all have some information and that is quite helpful. I just don't see anything on the Slick 2. 
I don't really see the point of adding an external timer because all of the other models seem to control timing functions via the software. I would try using a CAT-6 or even a CAT 5e cable to see if that cures the problem. I am very curious to see how this works out for you as I am about to purchase a Slick GU2 to control 4 zones of RGB lights. You might also review your DMX channel assignments as they can be a real pain to get set up correctly. Can you please provide me with the exact model number of the unit you have or post a picture of it. Thanks


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## HertzHound (Jan 22, 2019)

Old thread I know.


I thought that if you run Cat6 for DMX, you need to run shielded Cat6? Otherwise run whatever Belden wire is suggested. Belden 9729?


But I never used the set up you are using. I am thinking about ETC lighting racks


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I used to work with an engineer who formerly had my dream job: He was a roady on the light show crew for the Pink Floyd trio shows. Moved to New York. He called me up last Christmas season but I lost his number that I wrote down.


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## Easy (Oct 18, 2017)

HertzHound said:


> Old thread I know.
> 
> 
> I thought that if you run Cat6 for DMX, you need to run shielded Cat6? Otherwise run whatever Belden wire is suggested. Belden 9729?
> ...


That would be another way of doing it. The cable I use looks like instrument cable but it's different. 2 conductor and a shield and has DMX stamped on it. I only dabble in DMX so I'm no expert. I have read that a 120 ohm terminating resistor should be placed at the end of the control run right before you get to the last fixture. "Incorrect or missing termination is probably the single most common reason for faulty DMX512 systems."


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## RAD COM (Mar 3, 2019)

*Stick 2 controller*

I can't post a link yet but if you search e-bay for a Stick GU2 the unit I am using will pop up. It was a fun unit to play with and for the price seems like the best available. I used up most of its memory programming a simulated flame scene, too many channels making too many steps. Simple scenes like a blue fade to off in appreciation of the essential workers was a big hit. This unit does not have an astronomical clock so it won't turn on nightly. I must admit it took me a year to actually get the software to communicate to the lights. I think it was a either a bad EOL resistor or mismatch domain setting. I can only recommend buying mismatched used stuff of the web if you have patience.


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## Easy (Oct 18, 2017)

RAD COM said:


> I can't post a link yet but if you search e-bay for a Stick GU2 the unit I am using will pop up. It was a fun unit to play with and for the price seems like the best available. I used up most of its memory programming a simulated flame scene, too many channels making too many steps. Simple scenes like a blue fade to off in appreciation of the essential workers was a big hit. This unit does not have an astronomical clock so it won't turn on nightly. I must admit it took me a year to actually get the software to communicate to the lights. I think it was a either a bad EOL resistor or mismatch domain setting. I can only recommend buying mismatched used stuff of the web if you have patience.


This all sounds cool but my adventures with DMX have been anything but friendly the past few days. I have had my eye on the Slick GU2 and I was going to try and convince the customer to get one. Unfortunately title 24 really ate into our budget. After hearing your description I probably would look for something more simplistic.
I hate call backs for programming because my brain is fading in my old age.


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