# Latest silo control panel build



## micromind (Aug 11, 2007)

Looks good!

Allen Bradley pushbuttons.........the best.

I like how it's labeled, easy to troubleshoot but very likely it'll never need to be.


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## Easy (Oct 18, 2017)

Nice job 460 Delta.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

micromind said:


> Looks good!
> 
> Allen Bradley pushbuttons.........the best.
> 
> I like how it's labeled, easy to troubleshoot but very likely it'll never need to be.


Two Allen Bradley and one Square D push button. Furnas indicator lights also. 
Two Square D timers for the high level alarm and hopefully pinch valves. I’m waiting on another Crouzet OCRU timer as the other one developed a defect when I failed to notice it was set to 24 volts. Oops.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

Wheres the drawing you used to assemble this and the drawing you will leave inside this panel for the next guy?
You know I have to dog you about "Documentation". 
So post the drawing. You have only posted part of your project.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Some spiral wrap on the wires across the door hinge would be a nice touch. _IF _you were looking for a critical assessment.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

joe-nwt said:


> Some spiral wrap on the wires across the door hinge would be a nice touch. _IF _you were looking for a critical assessment.


I wouldn’t have posted pictures if I hadn’t _expected critical assessment. _


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

John Valdes said:


> Wheres the drawing you used to assemble this and the drawing you will leave inside this panel for the next guy?
> You know I have to dog you about "Documentation".
> So post the drawing. You have only posted part of your project.


I know, I know, baby steps John, baby steps.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

Remember right angle right makes a good looking job.
Also I still see missing wire numbers.
You fail, your punishment is to come and work for me.

Cowboy


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## Phillipd (Jan 7, 2020)

Nice work!


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

just the cowboy said:


> You fail, your punishment is to come and work for me.
> 
> Cowboy


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## canbug (Dec 31, 2015)

It looks good, send us a picture in a couple of years of a new one to compare.

Tim


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## SteveBayshore (Apr 7, 2013)

Looks good, (but), does the code permit the use of the panel mounting screw to also serve as the equipment ground termination point? If so, I think paint behind the terminal needs to be removed?


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

SteveBayshore said:


> Looks good, (but), does the code permit the use of the panel mounting screw to also serve as the equipment ground termination point? If so, I think paint behind the terminal needs to be removed?


Damn pics won’t load. Is the screw green?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

canbug said:


> It looks good, send us a picture in a couple of years of a new one to compare.
> 
> Tim


I really hope I don’t have to do another one, that means that I have moved to yet another r-mix company. I am doing the southern Ohio ready mix tour and I’m at my 3rd company.
I’m amazed at some of the lack of automation and inventory indication that ready mix plants deal/put up with, mainly because they know no different.
Minor builds like this and the plant operators think they are blessed beyond measure.
A factory built pinch valve and alarm control using a TDR will bite you for about $1500. With my preferred SH, eBay , I will have less than $500 in two controllers plus load down and low level indicators all in one cabinet.
Granted, the factory units have Panduit perfection wiring though. Guaranteed they won’t have a ladder diagram in the cabinet either. Lol


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

SteveBayshore said:


> Looks good, (but), does the code permit the use of the panel mounting screw to also serve as the equipment ground termination point? If so, I think paint behind the terminal needs to be removed?


Hmm, good point. I need to change that. Thanks.


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## Easy (Oct 18, 2017)

The more I look at it the better it looks. What size fuse are you going with? Hey what's that extra relay socket for? ha ha nice job ....


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

SteveBayshore said:


> Looks good, (but), does the code permit the use of the panel mounting screw to also serve as the equipment ground termination point? If so, I think paint behind the terminal needs to be removed?


That screw is not bonding the ground to the backplate, it's bonding to a stud socket welded to the box. Many boxes come with a star washer to install behind on of the backpan mounting screws to bond the backpan to the box.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

Easy said:


> The more I look at it the better it looks. What size fuse are you going with? Hey what's that extra relay socket for? ha ha nice job ....


A relatively small one, about a 5 amp will run all four bindicators and lights and a small solenoid air valve.
The empty socket, well I found or rather created a defective unit because it was set to 24 volt. A new one is coming from my favorite SH .


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## SteveBayshore (Apr 7, 2013)

joe-nwt said:


> That screw is not bonding the ground to the backplate, it's bonding to a stud socket welded to the box. Many boxes come with a star washer to install behind on of the backpan mounting screws to bond the backpan to the box.


And the star washer is so you don't have to remove the paint. It sure looks like the green equipment ground wire coming out of the conduit is tied to the back plate mounting screw.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

460 Delta said:


>


10 times better than the one from last year or so you posted. You listen almost 😅. 
Keep moving west and you’ll be here, I have 100 of them for you to build.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

just the cowboy said:


> 10 times better than the one from last year or so you posted. You listen almost 😅.
> Keep moving west and you’ll be here, I have 100 of them for you to build.


Even after I built the hundredth one, you and @joe-nwt would find fault with it .
As far as I know the ugly panel from a year ago is still churning away. A couple of weeks after I quit one of the guys called about replacing a bindicator from the old style to a new KA. I give him the information he needed and then calls back after they shorted wires changing it hot. Tripped a 15 amp breaker but it survived fine.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

Strange the door did not have a grounding stud. Years ago i was troubleshooting a panel and the boss came over to chat. He was holding the door while i used a meter to find the problem. Voltage was 90 something so i switched to a wiggy to see if it was real. I used the metal door which i presumed was grounded as its connected to the metal panel with a metal hinge as a test point and the boss went all spassy then fell over. 
Ever since then i have always hooked up the wire to the door stud back to the panel ground as one day i might be the boss.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

gpop said:


> Strange the door did not have a grounding stud. Years ago i was troubleshooting a panel and the boss came over to chat. He was holding the door while i used a meter to find the problem. Voltage was 90 something so i switched to a wiggy to see if it was real. I used the metal door which i presumed was grounded as its connected to the metal panel with a metal hinge as a test point and the boss went all spassy then fell over.
> Ever since then i have always hooked up the wire to the door stud back to the panel ground as one day i might be the boss.


It’s hard to say, this was some really old NOS stuff I got from my favorite SH. Maybe made before door grounding studs were vogue.


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

460 Delta said:


> It’s hard to say, this was some really old NOS stuff I got from my favorite SH. Maybe made before door grounding studs were vogue.


I wouldn't loose any sleep over it.


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## wiz1997 (Mar 30, 2021)

Do they sell wire by the inch where you are at?
Just have to ask.
Some of your wires are just barely long enough to get where they terminate.
White wire going to the door is one example.
Push the door further open and that one may pull out.
A red wire on the door is also short.
Then one on the terminal strip across the bottom is pulled tight.
If anything were to happen at those connections and the wire needed to be cut back and re-terminated, is there enough wire to do so?

Wire markers are a must, otherwise someone will be cutting the ty-raps to trace the wires.

Cosmetic items that don't effect function:
It's obvious to me, you ran a few wires, ty-rapped them, ran a few more ty-rapped them, and so one.
I see five ty-raps where if you bundled the whole group as one, you would need only two.
May be a peel off sticky back?

Fork connections would look better if straight instead of angled off in different directions.

There are times when it doesn't need to be pretty, but it does need to work.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

wiz1997 said:


> Do they sell wire by the inch where you are at?
> Just have to ask.
> Some of your wires are just barely long enough to get where they terminate.
> White wire going to the door is one example.
> ...


Yes I ran a few wires, then some more as I zip tied them, but I cut the temp ones out and bundle as a whole. The white neutral, may be tight, but the door is opened farther than it typically would be for photo purposes. The reason the wires are angled are so they fold around properly when I close the door. The wires are marked aside from a couple really short jump runs I thought unnecessary.
It may not be Panduit perfection, but it works when the door shuts and the clamps tighten. 
Please see my signature line.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

460 Delta said:


> Even after I built the hundredth one, you and @joe-nwt would find fault with it .
> As far as I know the ugly panel from a year ago is still churning away. A couple of weeks after I quit one of the guys called about replacing a bindicator from the old style to a new KA. I give him the information he needed and then calls back after they shorted wires changing it hot. Tripped a 15 amp breaker but it survived fine.


It's not going to take a hundred panels for you to learn, is it?


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

joe-nwt said:


> It's not going to take a hundred panels for you to learn, is it?


Most likely, I apparently learn slow because I keep posting pictures of my builds for you all to nitpick.


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## Flyingsod (Jul 11, 2013)

wiz1997 said:


> Wire markers are a must, otherwise someone will be cutting the ty-raps to trace the wires.
> 
> .


**** those ty- raps. Ima cut em off on principle 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

Flyingsod said:


> **** those ty- raps. Ima cut em off on principle
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you the guy that takes off the Panduit covers and puts them on top of the cabinet so it’s easier for me to trace the wires? If so thanks  .


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

460 Delta said:


> I know, I know, baby steps John, baby steps.


True, but at least start, where it all starts. The drawing. The drawing always precedes everything else. Even before you buy the enclosure.
From the drawing, a material list is built/assembled. (I know this is a small panel).
I cannot build anything without a drawing first.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

460 Delta said:


> Even after I built the hundredth one, you and @joe-nwt would find fault with it .


But the most important thing is we would hire you.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

just the cowboy said:


> But the most important thing is we would hire you.


_If_ he passes spiral wrap training.


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## wiz1997 (Mar 30, 2021)

460 Delta said:


> Yes I ran a few wires, then some more as I zip tied them, but I cut the temp ones out and bundle as a whole. The white neutral, may be tight, but the door is opened farther than it typically would be for photo purposes. The reason the wires are angled are so they fold around properly when I close the door. The wires are marked aside from a couple really short jump runs I thought unnecessary.
> It may not be Panduit perfection, but it works when the door shuts and the clamps tighten.
> Please see my signature line.


I think you may be misunderstanding what I meant.
If you look at the forked lugs on the white wires on the vertical terminal strip they stick straight out from the strip.
Some of the others are cocked at an angle.

If you put your sticky backs, where you plan to route your wires, and put a ty-rap on them, then close it down to where you have a loose loop, you can pass your wires through that loop, then snug them down when all your wires are done.


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

Here’s the ladder diagrams requested/demanded. Hand drawn and down home dirty. They’re written in a language that only I speak likely.


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## John Valdes (May 17, 2007)

Glenn give each wire a number. In order.


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## just the cowboy (Sep 4, 2013)

@460 Delta things are looking good.
First do you have an older win 7 machine you are running?
If so I will GIVE you a legal set of ACAD LT and a electrical symbol library I drew, if you promise to use it. It is the older version that does not requiring renewing it. This would be for you not a company to own.
Second go over the book I sent you and review the print section it has all the proper symbols to use.
Keep up the good work. PM me if you want the ACAD

Cowboy


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## SteveBayshore (Apr 7, 2013)

John Valdes said:


> Glenn give each wire a number. In order.


John, small T-CAD drawing of a sand wash plant we originally designed and built in '06, pages 1 thru 5. Pages 6 thru 8 are for a gravel wash plant we are just adding at the site now. I sent page 8 out to the field blank because I didn't know what the owner was supplying to control the speed of the feeder motor. Sheet 8+ is what my tech actually installed in the field and I will have to add it to the record drawings.
Anyone else looking these over, note the component numbers and the wire numbers are all derived from the line numbers. Makes them easy to locate and troubleshoot or to make additions or modifications. You can look at a wire number and know what page it's located on. Pretty necessary when the number of lines and pages exceeds just a few. Almost impossible to locate a coil or wire number in a set of plans with 20 or more pages.


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