# what is the best sized hammer for residential work?



## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

For 20 or maybe 25 years I packed a 20 Oz framing hammer. Then I got tired and picked up a 16 Oz framers (I like the straight claw). Been using that quite nicely for 15 or 20 years. Less weight as I carry it in my pouch. Works just as well as the heavy one I find. But...

I like hammers and will probably one day get a new fancy *FatMax® 14 oz High Velocity Hammer* 

Yeah, drop a couple more ounces off the weight and let technology take over.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

16 oz Estwing rip is all I use.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

7 oz. brass machinist's hammer for all my demo work.


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

First Res co I worked for required everybody to have a 20oz Estwing straight
claw hammer. They wanted everyone to have the same hammer as they also 
taught us to use it to set plug height. Fast and easy that way, and, of course, 
if everyone has the same hammer, all the plugs end up at the same height. 
I quickly got to like the hammer and don't plan on changing. 
YMMV,
P&L


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## backstay (Feb 3, 2011)

I set box height with a scrap of 2x4 cut to size. I would never use the hammer for it. That said, the new titanium hammer kind of set weight on its head. So light, so fast. There is no right size, use what works for you.


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## 3D Electric (Mar 24, 2013)

I use a 14oz Stanley. I've had it for years. 👍


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

PlugsAndLights said:


> taught us to use it to set plug height. Fast and easy that way, and, of course,
> 
> P&L


Yeah the old days. A couple of 4" common nails, hammer for height, smack the nails in. Big nails, big hammer. Don't do that anymore. 

Screw gun has taken over long ago. Now measure, and a couple of 1" drywall screws.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

backstay said:


> That said, the new titanium hammer kind of set weight on its head. So light, so fast.


I like that word buy yikes... *$261.45* Canadian if you hurry. Regular *$291.19* 

https://www.amazon.ca/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM


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## 3D Electric (Mar 24, 2013)

daveEM said:


> I like that word buy yikes... *$261.45* Canadian if you hurry. Regular *$291.19*
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM


$207 with free shipping in the good old US of A! 👍

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...ing+hammer&dpPl=1&dpID=31OSonG9OnL&ref=plSrch


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

You know..... Milwaukee makes a hammer, not to cheap though!


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## 3D Electric (Mar 24, 2013)

Majewski said:


> You know..... Milwaukee makes a hammer, not to cheap though!


Great now my Stanley hammer I've used for years is inadequate. I MUST PURCHASE!


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

Majewski said:


> You know..... Milwaukee makes a hammer, not to cheap though!


Damn, I can't find it. Search on their page and they think all their hammers have a battery or cord.

Need another cup of coffee I guess. google has a pic of it tho.

*Edit:* Looks like they are selling _Stiletto TBM14RMS 14 oz. TiBone Mini_ as theirs. Not even red.


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## drewsserviceco (Aug 1, 2014)

After being a 24oz estwing guy for years, I finally wised up and switched to a 10 or 12 oz ball peen. I had already been used to the ball peen from my years doing commercial work and having a set of tools I left on site in the gang box. Primarily doing residential and commercial service now, the smaller hammer is so much nicer. Easier to staple wires and actually drive the nails on a nail on box vs. overpowering it and just bouncing off of the stud. Sounds silly, and I was resistant at first, but it works.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

This thread should be called ''how many staples have you had to pry out due to the prior ****** electrician who bought a 20 oz or greater fancy looking hammer. "


I use a wood handle 16 oz . The cheapest one in the hardware store. It is a sign of a real professional.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

I have had a 16oz Estwing rip claw since I was 8 or so and it's still my go to hammer. I have a collection of hammers that I liked for one thing or another but fall back to the old standard.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I bought a Klein 8 ounce ball peen hammer because it was all they had at the supply house one day decades ago. Since I don't hardly ever drive nails, it turns out its fine. If you are secure in your manhood, you will bothered about coworkers making jokes about your tiny ball peen hammer. It is also so small you can keep it in your pocket, and if you keep it in your front pocket, people will think you are really excited to see them. 

Now if you're doing any carpentry, I like those big hatchet handle framing hammers, they pound in spikes like ringing a bell, but I think the feel of that hatchet handle is a very individual thing, I tried a few much more expensive ones that didn't do much for me before I found a True Value one that fits just right.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

16 oz. curved claw, wooden handle.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

daveEM said:


> I like that word buy yikes... *$261.45* Canadian if you hurry. Regular *$291.19*
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM


It's less expensive at Grainger:

https://www.grainger.com/product/STILETTO-Rip-Claw-Hammer-2XTE8?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2XTE8_AS01?$smthumb$


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Majewski said:


> You know..... Milwaukee makes a hammer, not to cheap though!


YEAH $236.00

https://www.grainger.com/product/MILWAUKEE-Framming-Hammer-36FW27?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/36FW26_AS01?$smthumb$


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## Rob-Bryant (May 24, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> It's less expensive at Grainger:
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/STILETTO-Rip-Claw-Hammer-2XTE8?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2XTE8_AS01?$smthumb$


"Less expensive" and "Grainger"...two things that are very rarely in the same sentence!


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Just buy the Klein electricians hammer. You will not regret it.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

MechanicalDVR said:


> It's less expensive at Grainger:
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/STILETTO-Rip-Claw-Hammer-2XTE8?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2XTE8_AS01?$smthumb$


Nothing is ever less expensive at Grainger.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> Nothing is ever less expensive at Grainger.


I just paid $99.50 for a Milwaukee 12v rotary tool kit with two batteries, charger, pouch and accessories. Most places I looked wanted $99 for the baretool.

The M18v vacuum has been less at Grainger anytime I checked.


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

sbrn33 said:


> Just buy the Klein electricians hammer. You will not regret it.


It's poorly balanced, too heavy and the handle is ridiculously long. It's definitely something you will regret buying.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

There is no other hammer but Estwing. Anything else might as well be a rock tied to a stick.


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

daveEM said:


> Yeah the old days. A couple of 4" common nails, hammer for height, smack the nails in. Big nails, big hammer. Don't do that anymore.
> 
> Screw gun has taken over long ago. Now measure, and a couple of 1" drywall screws.


Actually I've changed my method a bit now too. Still use the hammer
for height then use the side of the hammer on the side of the box 
to set the points into the stud. After that though I grab my drill and 
put ONE robertson screw inside the box into the stud. Took me a while 
to accept 1 screw was OK, but since CSA certifies this method I gave 
it try and haven't used 2 screws, or nails, in 4 or 5 years. Since the 
screw is inside the box, not through the ears, moving it later when 
something goes wrong is easy. 
P&L


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

InPhase277 said:


> There is no other hammer but Estwing. Anything else might as well be a rock tied to a stick.


Been an Estwing guy for decades. They have an issue with the newer leather handles. The ones over 20 years old are just as good as new but the newer ones all have pieces break out.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Actually I've changed my method a bit now too. Still use the hammer
> for height then use the side of the hammer on the side of the box
> to set the points into the stud. After that though I grab my drill and
> put ONE robertson screw inside the box into the stud. Took me a while
> ...


It took me a minute to remember that Canadians don't use the awesome plastic nail-on boxes we do. That's just terrible. Practically a humanitarian crisis.


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

InPhase277 said:


> It took me a minute to remember that Canadians don't use the awesome plastic nail-on boxes we do. That's just terrible. Practically a humanitarian crisis.


Ya, I don't think we have the nail on plastics. We do have plastic boxes
with ears, which I attach with 2 screws. Prefer the welded metal boxes 
(2104's) though. With the plastics I don't like the clamp and really don't
like the ground screw orientation. 
YMMV,
P&L


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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

InPhase277 said:


> It took me a minute to remember that Canadians don't use the awesome plastic nail-on boxes we do. That's just terrible. Practically a humanitarian crisis.


It's beyond a humanitarian crisis, it actually calls for that nation to be bombed out of existence.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Ya, I don't think we have the nail on plastics. We do have plastic boxes
> with ears, which I attach with 2 screws. Prefer the welded metal boxes
> (2104's) though. With the plastics I don't like the clamp and really don't
> like the ground screw orientation.
> ...


And yet another example of a travesty: ground screws on a plastic box. I'll grant you that the NEC has some screwed up crap in it like AFCIs and handle tied MWBCs. But ground screws on a plastic box boggles the mind.

And most of our single gang nail-on boxes don't have clamps, they rely on a staple within 8" to hold the wire.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

The best hammer is the one that will never hit me on the thumb.


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## Jay82304 (May 12, 2015)

20 oz Klein electricians hammer for residential use....which I rarely do....so for me, I use my Klein journeyman series side cutters


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## catsparky1 (Sep 24, 2013)

Riggers axe . Real resi guys use riggers axe !!!!


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## Galt (Sep 11, 2013)

Vaughn.


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## electricguy (Mar 22, 2007)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Actually I've changed my method a bit now too. Still use the hammer
> for height then use the side of the hammer on the side of the box
> to set the points into the stud. After that though I grab my drill and
> put ONE robertson screw inside the box into the stud. Took me a while
> ...


I didn't know the boxes were one screw approved until 2 months ago no more octagon boxes with bracket for me now. after paying 10.00 for a deep box with bracket


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

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## MTW (Aug 28, 2013)

catsparky1 said:


> Riggers axe . Real resi guys use riggers axe !!!!


California is the only place I've ever seen residential guys use a framers hammer for a rough in. It might account for all the hack work I saw there too. :whistling2:


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> YEAH $236.00
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/MI.../rp/s/is/image/Grainger/36FW26_AS01?$smthumb$


Pocket change dude.... I mean, why doesn't everyone have like...3? :jester:


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

MTW said:


> California is the only place I've ever seen residential guys use a framers hammer for a rough in. It might account for all the hack work I saw there too. :whistling2:


People get funny with hammers out here. Electricians dont need 32 Oz California style framing hammers! I'm guess I'm guilty of over doing it at times as well. 
In commercial I only used a hammer for setting anchors. I can't recall any other need for one. When I did slab on grade I primarily used a single jack. 

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## Switched (Dec 23, 2012)

I bought one of those DeWalt 14oz hammers that is supposed to have the power of the 20oz, gotta say I like the hammer a lot.


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## skinnyj41004 (Mar 17, 2007)

3lb sledge on a stub handle. I'm not a carpenter, I make holes and set anchors.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

hatsgoods said:


> i have a 19 oz hammer. is that too big you think? or too small? is that o good size? thanks - kell btw. i think the 19 oz hammer i have is a framers one.


You know....all joking aside, anything that gets it done will suffice until your budget dictates more tools. I honestly have always been an estwing guy and have duplicates in some sizes but have just about each size they make lol. What type of resi also matters because I can get away with using just my linemans about 85% of the time.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

I like this one. I think its a 20 oz but cant read the head anymore. It really doest matter that much.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Thread's too long ...

BUT.

The traditional 'residential electrician's' hammer has a long head that can pound nails flush even deep into a junction box.

Such boxes, such nailings, are dated.

So my bias would be towards a lighter hammer.

My framer buddies swear by the super-expensive titanium hammers.

For me, I scarcely pick a hammer up. I never wear a hammer loop on my belt.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

Majewski said:


> You know..... Milwaukee makes a hammer, not to cheap though!


Really like their cordless tools, but I never really got into their hand tools. Borrowed a coworkers strippers and was not impressed. Had the same experience with the nut drivers.

I use a 20 oz. Estwing claw hammer, and it mostly is used for beating on my Klein demo drivers and also for general demo/alignment work. I don't work with romex staples too often, and lots of times end up using my Kleins in a pinch for that.


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## Missouri Bound (Aug 30, 2009)

daveEM said:


> I like that word buy yikes... *$261.45* Canadian if you hurry. Regular *$291.19*
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM


And THAT is the reason people buy imported goods.
A case of hammers shouldn't cost that much.:laughing:


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## 350X (May 20, 2016)

You probably already got your hammer, but here it goes, just in case. 
If you really want to wow the apprentice, go get this:








I really miss mine. I'd twirl the long neck around my index finger and catch the handle as it came around and hit the staple. You will not have to bring a lunch anymore. 
Btw. Yes it's heavy. It's a hammer. Good news is it's not any heavier than another 18oz. 


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Should be all you ever need for a hammer in residential use, 16oz straight claw:


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Should be all you ever need for a hammer in residential use, 16oz straight claw:


16 oz is more than adequate for driving staples and the occasional nail; 
straight claw is better for general prybar and hole hacking duty; 
smooth face is easier on the romex jacket and left thumb. 

I remind myself something a mechanic told me about fixing cars, but these days it applies to electrical too - when ever you're using a hammer, there's probably a better way.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

telsa said:


> Thread's too long ...
> 
> BUT...


That won't stop you from weighing in!


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## emtnut (Mar 1, 2015)

I have about 8 hammers.

I like the one that is closest to me best :whistling2:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

emtnut said:


> I have about 8 hammers.
> 
> I like the one that is closest to me best :whistling2:


Not unlike tool bags I have tended to pick up everyone that seems neat or just cool looking. I'd hate to count em.


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## 350X (May 20, 2016)

Have you tried driving a 16d with electricians hammer?
Maybe try filing cross-hatches, with a triangle file, in your smooth face hammers. Not much. Just a few minutes worth. 
And in wont destroy the sheath on romex. 
It's gives it just enough bite to do trick. A j-man I worked with showed me that. 


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

350X said:


> Have you tried driving a 16d with electricians hammer?
> Maybe try filing cross-hatches, with a triangle file, in your smooth face hammers. Not much. Just a few minutes worth.
> And in wont destroy the sheath on romex.
> It's gives it just enough bite to do trick. A j-man I worked with showed me that.
> ...


If you are talking the 16d nails used for nail on boxes that only penetrate the wood 1 1/8"of overall length I don't see an issue with a 16oz hammer. Other than that type of use I can't remember the last time I drove a 16d nail for anything. Screws are the way to go.


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## 350X (May 20, 2016)

MechanicalDVR said:


> If you are talking the 16d nails used for nail on boxes that only penetrate the wood 1 1/8"of overall length I don't see an issue with a 16oz hammer. Other than that type of use I can't remember the last time I drove a 16d nail for anything. Screws are the way to go.




Screws are good. I'm old school and haven't switched yet. Plus I'm cheap and nails are free for me. 
Yes, it does help with box nails, also. But mostly helps with nailing short 2x4's to move a switch away from door jam or move an outlet box over. Where my home-runs go with the trusses, I nail 26" long 2x4 across trusses to keep wires together.
When ever I use one w/o the cross-hatch, it's a BIG difference. If you've never tried it, you should. It can't hurt anything. 
Screws are better for certain things, though. 
I just like nails. Thanks


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## KelvinKlein (Jul 10, 2016)

12 oz Estwing is all I need. Light enough to carry around all day and plenty heavy enough for any work I'm doing. I'm not framing in! :lol:


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## BababooeyHTJ (May 31, 2013)

I use a cheap 20oz plumb hammer. The side is nice and flat which is nice in tight spots


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

A much older apprentice that worked with my BIL had the nastiest looking pink hammer from a dollar store. I asked him what kind of hammer it was and he said "theft resistant" it was the only one that never was stolen.


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