# "I'm buying a house; can you give me an electrical inspection?"



## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

I get this question a lot.

Especially since there are a ton of ****ty flippers around.
Recent finds have been romex where the ground was jumpered to the neutral on receptacles (obviously no AFCIs in the panel). Another good one was a new electric oven wired with #10 on a 30 amp DP breaker (no one makes 30A ovens anymore and the label inside the oven door had the wattage right there.

So, obviously checking the oven is something that the home inspector should have flagged but didn't (I took pics and documented what I found and got a $600 refund for the home owner).

The other customer got so badly screwed ...I actually found all the loose grounds and properly connected about 8 receptacles ...WTF is wrong with people that they couldn't do this during installation???

So now I'm getting calls to inspect house systems.

*I'm assuming that I can't take things apart without the seller's permission*

So, what can I do to make a inspection worthwhile? I want to make a list that is useful to the buyer, but doesn't get me in trouble with the seller.
(There are many older homes in my area, so lots of them won't be up to date on grounding and bonding, some will have K&T, etc. So some of these items are for new rehabs and some for older houses. Some of the items aren't code related, but are about cosmetic or comfort/convenience issues.

I'm gonna brainstorm here and probably add more detail for customers -or maybe just take away the explanations and leave it in a "colder" list format.

It's late, so here goes...

1). Confirm that there is a proper electrical inspection sticker for any work that was claimed to have been done.
2). Check that circuit breakers in the electrical panel offer either AFCI or GFCI protection where required.
3). Is the circuit breaker panel labeled? Are breakers properly sized? Ask the sellers to see an electrical plan.
4). The panel should be mounted on a painted board and should have a dedicated GFCI receptacle and ground bus next to it.
5). Check for redundant grounding and proper bonding between hot and cold water pipes and gas service.
6). check for properly bonded CSST.
7). Check all receptacles for ground and polarity. Some houses may have older, un-grounded wiring with 3 prong receptacles installed. GFCI protection is a legitimate solution to this issue. Check for loose receptacle sockets.
8). Examine receptacles and and switches. Do the cover plates look like they're extra large? That's a good way to hide bad installation technique. For one thing, it could mean that the box was installed poorly or that the patching around it was really bad or wasn't done at all. On exterior walls especially, that is going to be mean air leaks and a cold and drafty room. In addition, sometimes when someone can't get an outlet to sit properly on the wall, a large cover can hide mistakes with the actual mounting of the outlet or the outlet box. In new construction, that shouldn't happen at all. Although it is fair to say that this is sometimes this is the drywaller's fault if the outlet is mounted properly but any patching around the box was done poorly and the surface isn't perfectly smooth all around the box.
9). Do ceiling fans wobble? Are the fans small for the room? Are fan and light separately switched?
10). Are the finished recessed lights made with built-in LED lights? What's going to happen when the LED dies...? Will the manufacturer still be making that model, or will you have to replace it with something that looks "close enough"? Recessed lights should always have a standard screw-in ("A-type") socket for light bulbs. I mean, what if the installer put in "daylight" fixture and you want "warm white"?
11). The kitchen should have a minimum of (2) separate dedicated 20 amp circuits just for the kitchen counter receptacles. These should be labeled in the panel or on the plans. Legally, they may not include refrigerator, dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwave, or anything else that isn't specifically a counter-top receptacle.
Are all the receptacles on one of the circuits in one area of the kitchen and all the others in another area? That sucks if you want to have you toaster oven and your coffee maker in the same area.
12). Count up the number of things that you have plugged in on your kitchen counters where you live right now and make sure that your new kitchen has 50% additional sockets to plug things in. Once you own a home, you collect stuff.
13). Any receptacles within 6 feet of water source must be GFCI protected.
14). Outdoor receptacles must be GFCI protected, available at the front and rear of the building, and be protected by a "bubble cover"

What do y'all think? It's past 1:30am, I'm nodding, and I should really be sleeping now. I'll leave this here, but feel free to add stuff or critique.

As always, thanks!


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## joebanana (Dec 21, 2010)

Last time I had a residential inspection, it was a tract home, and all he did was a visual of the GES. CW clamp had to be visible, UFER clamp had to be accessible and bond screw was installed. That's all he cared about. But this was before AFCI's.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I can't remember ever putting an electrical panel on a piece of plywood backboard before. Did I fail the inspection?


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

What do I think? I think if you're going to inspect, it should be to some recognized standard and not some wacky ass list you made.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

macmikeman said:


> I can't remember ever putting an electrical panel on a piece of plywood backboard before. Did I fail the inspection?


How do you test for fire ret ardant paint?


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## gpop (May 14, 2018)

whats a ground buss next to a panel and depending on where the panel is why do i need a gfci next to it.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

IMO it's a huge can of worms when you use the word "inspection." 

One concern is whether this service - "electrical inspection" - is something that you can just wing it and do your own way, or a service that is regulated and something you must conform to legal requirements to provide. 

The second concern is liability. Home inspectors put a LOT into contract scope of work and disclaimers. You might ought to form a separate busniess entity (corporation, LLC, whatever) and carry insurance, including E&O insurance. As a consumer, I'd never want to buy an inspection from someone that does not carry E&O insurance. 

The third concern is conflict of interest. This is the part of the OP I like the least: 



Greg Sparkovich said:


> So, what can I do to make a inspection worthwhile? I want to make a list that is useful to the buyer, but doesn't get me in trouble with the seller.


You can't serve two masters. Your job should be to report the unvarnished truth. You start to hedge, and start telling people what they want to hear instead of the truth, you're just a ...

... you're not a nice respectable girl any more.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

gpop said:


> whats a ground buss next to a panel and depending on where the panel is why do i need a gfci next to it.


Might be referring to intersystem bonding bridge, which does not necessarily have to be near the panel. 

The receps next to the panel would not be a code requirement, it's just that if you're installing to code minimums and putting it in the garage or basement, it's the cheapest way to meet that requirement.


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## Forge Boyz (Nov 7, 2014)

Too much of that list is personal opinion and/or what would be nice in a perfect world. It also appears that he wants to use current codes for old work that was compliant when installed.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

Unless you're a "certified Electrical Inspector" from some accredited certification program (like the IAEI ) you should probably stop calling it an "inspection".

Maybe a better approach would be to charge a "fee" to arrange and coordinate for a "certified electrical inspector" to do a "survey". Include the inspection fee in your total fee, but be transparent about it to your customers.

"Surveys", in most municipalities, are just that; a survey. The findings don't get reported to the building department and is nothing more then a "report". It's a survey, not an inspection. 

The owner of the property is not going to want an "inspector" coming in their home to do anything out of fear of being turned into the building department so you'll have to do a good job of explaining that to the property owner. Good luck!

To me, there are so many easier less risky ways of making money. :smile:


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## MikeFL (Apr 16, 2016)

You can do a non-destructive inspection. As long as you don't damage anything, take it apart all you want and then put it back together.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

splatz said:


> IMO it's a huge can of worms when you use the word "inspection."
> 
> One concern is whether this service - "electrical inspection" - is something that you can just wing it and do your own way, or a service that is regulated and something you must conform to legal requirements to provide.
> 
> ...


Even our inspection reports from the AHJ call them "Observations".


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

I do a walk thru and very rarely take out a screwdriver. You screw something up that was probably already bad and you will have a ****storm on your hands. 
I just walk around and give them my general opinion. Sometimes there are things that stick out and all the small **** the HI normally finds. 
Then I write them a stock letter on my opinion and list out anything I believe needs repaired with a general estimate. Charge em for two hours and call it good.

edit, I rarely mount a resi panel on plywood. Just seems like a waste of time. Is there a code for that?


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

This isn't my wheelhouse, but, most of us have bought a home or two. So, look at it like a home buyer.
1) How old is the property?
2) Does it have K&T, cloth & rubber or AL wiring? Romex with no or reduced ground?
3) Was it rewired? Who did it, was it permitted, inspected & were the permits closed?
4) GFIs?
5) Stove and water heater wiring and grounding?
6) How old are the panels & breakers, what brand?
List is more of a safety/problems check.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

When we do "inspections" we relate everything to a code violation. If it is not attached to a code rule then it is opinion at best; perhaps recommendation.

As an example, we use the phrase "existing non-conforming" in items that were compliant at the time but are not now. Biggest example of that is the kitchen counter 20 amp GFCI receptacle. Many older kitchens have the 3-wire split, which was code compliant at the time of install. The only time a home owner is "forced" to upgrade to the new code rules is when there is new work being done or the old work creates a hazard.

Cheers
John


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

splatz said:


> IMO it's a huge can of worms when you use the word "inspection."
> 
> One concern is whether this service - "electrical inspection" - is something that you can just wing it and do your own way, or a service that is regulated and something you must conform to legal requirements to provide.
> 
> ...


Print this out and put it on your fridge


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Ultimately you are there to find things that can be upgraded so that the buyer can use those costs to negotiate a lower price on the house. You are not there to be an impartial mediator between the buyer and seller, only citing code violations. You are there as an agent of the buyer, with the sole purpose of serving them. As long as you don't misrepresent anything, you shouldn't have an issue.

Your suggestions can be purely opinion, and they can exceed code and local requirements. For example, there is nothing wrong with recommending that a 55 year old panel should be replaced, even if it is working perfectly and up to current code. There is nothing wrong with recommending that a 20A circuit and GFCI outlet be installed in the bathroom in which there are no outlets. That is common for home inspectors to cite. If the code requires an outlet in all new bathrooms for safety reasons, then you can recommend one in the existing bathroom just the same. Just don't misrepresent it by saying it's required.

You also don't want to certify anything. Your report is not saying that the house is safe and everything works. It is saying that everything you observed appeared to work correctly and there were no apparent dangers.

Having a lawyer write up the proper legalese for this would be well worth the money, as would E&O insurance. I also really like splatz's idea of starting a second company for this purpose. Not only will it limit your liability, it will make it look more specialized. 

One issue that needs to be determined is how far you are going to go during the inspection. I have been in houses that there were no signs of K&T anywhere until we opened up some outlets in the bedrooms. And opening those outlets became a big pain in the ass putting them back together. The insulation just crumpled off the conductors, some of the conductors themselves broke, and they were all short. It's not just K&T, cloth covered BX is the same. Just opening the boxes was a pain due to the paint, and no matter how cleanly we cut the paint, it did not look the same when we closed it back up. 

This is the hell we deal with when working in old houses, and you need to be sure that you are covering your costs while doing the inspection. Think about it like this: If you can get $45/outlet replacement, why should you open 10 outlets to inspect inside, doing the same amount of work as replacing them, for less than the $450 you would have made replacing them?

As for me, I stay away from the inspection aspect of this. I don't survey or observe or any of that. I simply give an estimate for work. Inside the scope I may or may not include some description explaining why the work is being proposed, such as "existing panel is very old and poorly wired, rust was found on the bottom and burn marks on the bus". etc.

Another thing that splatz said that is important is about the requirements in your area to be an inspector. Maybe your credentials as an electrical contractor aren't enough to inspect, even on a private residential basis. That's why I just stay away from it altogether. 

This is all just my opinion and definitely should be verified.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

flyboy said:


> *Unless you're a "certified Electrical Inspector" from some accredited certification program (like the IAEI ) you should probably stop calling it an "inspection".*
> 
> Maybe a better approach would be to charge a "fee" to arrange and coordinate for a "certified electrical inspector" to do a "survey". Include the inspection fee in your total fee, but be transparent about it to your customers.
> 
> ...


you stole my thunder


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

this topic of "performing electrical inspections" came up
in my annual code class in August.

In our business & law segment , code instructor sited that 
this is a huge problem in Ohio cause many state Licensed 
Electrical Contractors unwittingly (or even knowingly) are
performing these "inspections" and are not supposed to be
per Ohio Industry Commission Licensing Board rules.

It's as Flyboy said...need to be certified by the ICC as
an "electrical safety inspector" with appropriate insurance.

when I get these calls , I let them know what our state law 
has to say about point of sale inspections which is that the home only
has to be up to the code in force at the
time it was built and then add or when the latest remodel was done , which
would only apply to the work done on the remodel.

I then offer to provide an estimate to bring the electrical up to the
current code if that's what they want , but I emphasize it's not required 
for the sale of the house.


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## John M. (Oct 29, 2016)

This is the best electrical system to have in a house
100 amp service with FPE panel.
Knob and Tube wiring, Connections must be twisted together, no solder.
2 wire outlets
lights switches must be the kind with mercury in them
If its a fuse panel instead of a breaker panel, all the screw in fuses must be updated to 30 amp.


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

lighterup said:


> you stole my thunder


Sorry...:vs_sad:


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

flyboy said:


> Sorry...:vs_sad:


Good looking people don't have to be sorry.


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## flyboy (Jun 13, 2011)

HackWork said:


> Good looking people don't have to be sorry.


I obviously made a mistake.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

John M. said:


> This is the best electrical system to have in a house
> 100 amp service with FPE panel.
> Knob and Tube wiring, Connections must be twisted together, no solder.
> 2 wire outlets
> ...


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> I get this question a lot.
> 
> Especially since there are a ton of ****ty flippers around.
> Recent finds have been romex where the ground was jumpered to the neutral on receptacles (obviously no AFCIs in the panel). Another good one was a new electric oven wired with #10 on a 30 amp DP breaker (no one makes 30A ovens anymore and the label inside the oven door had the wattage right there.
> ...


you'll never make it as HI, you forgot "double taps"

I think # 13 should instead list locations where GFCI's are required

I'd drop # 10

ask the sellers to provide an electrical plan? :vs_laugh:


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> What do I think? I think if you're going to inspect, it should be to some recognized standard and not some wacky ass list you made.


or more tactfully:

no need to reinvent the wheel


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## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

Really good points from some folks.
Just to clarify:
I have never actually done this. I get asked to, but I haven't done it -mostly because the vast majority of problems I see are in wall cases. And I am NOT going to go into wall cases since that is asking for liability issues (eg, Hack's crumbing insulation issue).
I agree that "examine" or "observe" is better language; I'll work that out with my lawyer.

My main goal (which I didn't make clear) is to find things that are problems, not to "certify" anything. 
I live in an industrial city with quickly gentrifying neighborhoods and so many of my new customers are victims of scam flips -or- they are buying 100 year old houses with significant issues after multiple "upgrades" (often by previous homeowners). Home Inspectors might get awesome training and certification, but they miss so much (I bet everyone here has seen bad work from licensed electricians, yeah?). Gas line bonding, CSST bonding, very obviously cut grounding rods, no AFCIs, etc. are violations in a new flip -but also worth pointing out even if the service is old. I see 5-10 reports from HIs every month that would not cover the issues that I would consider when buying a property (I'm a home owner and landlord). Plus, I cannot count the times my documentation (pics and write-ups) have recovered money from scam contractors over the past 30 years -so I DO think that prevention is worthwhile.


I don't find a citing for flame ******ant paint in the NEC ...that is IBC I think, but my inspector does not require it. We use painted plywood since most basements here are 100+ year old unfinished stone. Paint is for moisture protection which is obviously a common issue.
My inspector does insist on the intersystem bridge being mounted on the panel board on the ground wire to the rod and a GFCI being visible on or adjacent to the panel board (a service contractor should NOT have to guess where to get a safe electrical power source in a damp location).
I basically do whatever my inspector asks because I've earned his respect and I owe him that respect in return.

I'm also recovering from an elbow injury and looking to do less strenuous work -this is the first time in years I'm not booked 6 weeks in advance because I'm cutting out services/upgrades, ceiling fans, anything over my shoulders. I'm a one-man shop and thinking about a gently working retirement (I'm 57 and don't want to stop).

I'm honestly surprised that I got such a negative response to this post. I get the fear of legal implications -but do you guys really think your experience isn't a valuable asset to a 20-something year old couple buying their first house???


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> I'm honestly surprised that I got such a negative response to this post. I get the fear of legal implications -but do you guys really think your experience isn't a valuable asset to a 20-something year old couple buying their first house???


Agreed, our experience is valuable. But, home buyers need to educate themselves or they won't see the value in our experience.


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## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

Bird dog said:


> Agreed, our experience is valuable. But, home buyers need to educate themselves or they won't see the value in our experience.


Interesting; I demonstrate that by sharing information that no one else told them.
Most of my phone calls end with someone telling me that they don't want to look any further because:
1). I talked to them, and
2). It sounds like I know what I'm talking about

(Seriously; I don't even bother doing in-person estimates anymore)

I provide google docs for my customers that explain AFCI and GFCI protection, grounding, home to make their own circuit map, how to do some basic trouble-shooting, what to expect from a service upgrade and more. My impression is that people respect and rely on you when you are passionate and share info.

I only have 5-star/A ratings (maybe 40 or 50)...and at least 5 of them are from people I couldn't schedule or were out of my service area (within 20 minutes of my house). Why? Because I wasn't some ass-crack grumpy contractor and I spent 10 minutes on the phone with them (Not saying you're an ass-crack grumpy contractor).


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> Interesting; I demonstrate that by sharing information that no one else told them.
> Most of my phone calls end with someone telling me that they don't want to look any further because:
> 1). I talked to them, and
> 2). It sounds like I know what I'm talking about
> ...


That's sounds great. I never was an EC just an extra pair of hands. However, I'm a real estate investor & sometimes people just do dumb stuff.
btw I'm aiming to be a crusty old curmudgeon. :biggrin:


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

I know I forget things.

So where in NEC does it say GFCI receptacle is required next to panel box?


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## LibertyRising (Jan 2, 2018)

When I get hired to do an inspection I just go crawl into the crawlspace and take about a 2 hour nap. Then come out and say - “looks good in there.”


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> Another good one was a new electric oven wired with #10 on a 30 amp DP breaker (no one makes 30A ovens anymore and the label inside the oven door had the wattage right there.
> 
> So, obviously checking the oven is something that the home inspector should have flagged but didn't (I took pics and documented what I found and got a $600 refund for the home owner).


Some ovens are 20 amp, 240 Volt. Of course this is a single oven not a range.


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

couldn't find much right with house I inspected this morning for realtor

house built in 1891

wiring from 50's-60's with no ground connected to 3-prong recepts

receps in floor instead of wall with handy or no covers

usual flying taps, panel box in closet w/o adequate working space, bare bulbs in closets, no dissconnect outside or inside nearest, no GFCI's, surge supressor on panel tapped directly to bus not breaker, etc etc

and double taps on neutral bar!

easier to tell them what's right than what's wrong


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

readydave8 said:


> I know I forget things.
> 
> So where in NEC does it say GFCI receptacle is required next to panel box?


Probably in the same place that says the intersystem bonding block has to be mounted by the panel. In the inspector's imagination. :vs_laugh:

Code requires the bonding block to be by the service so I mount it outside where the phone and cable company can run their ground wire to it easily. 

Code doesn't require a convenience receptacle to be mounted at the panel, nor is there any reason for one.


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

readydave8 said:


> I know I forget things.
> 
> So where in NEC does it say GFCI receptacle is required next to panel box?


Maybe you're thinking of the requirement for a receptacle near HVAC equipment?


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## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

No, there is no requirement to be beside the panel.
The requirement is that it is within 50'. I also saw this referenced in at least one other thread here where the inspector failed the EC because he wanted a GFCI beside the panel. Oh well.

Do I care? No. It's 15 minutes! And it makes it easy for other contractors to know that there is a safe receptacle where they can expect to find it. That's a GOOD thing; if something happens to some idiot who leaves his extension cord in a puddle, I don't want to be blamed.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

> No, there is no requirement to be beside the panel.
> The requirement is that it is within 50'.


 I have never seen that. Which article requires it?


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## Bird dog (Oct 27, 2015)

*2014 NEC...
*
*210.64 Receptacle at Electrical Service Areas*
At least one 125-volt, single-phase, 15- or 20-ampere receptacle outlet is now required to be installed within 15 m (50 ft) of all electrical service areas. There is also an exception added for this rule to exempt one- and two-family dwelling services from this requirement. This new rule is similar to the requirement for a service receptacle outlet to be installed within 7.5 m (25 ft) of all heating, air-conditioning, and refrigeration equipment at 210.63. At the service equipment, there is sometimes a need for connecting portable electrical data acquisition equipment for the qualitative analysis of the electrical system. Test equipment is frequently needed for monitoring and servicing electrical equipment in service areas, as well.
https://iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2013/09/16/changes-requirements-for-receptacles-2014-nec/


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Thanks Bird dog. So it’s exempt in single and two family houses. I didn’t think there was a requirement.

I like to upsell homeowners on a GFCI outlet with dedicated circuit and a light right above the panel. If they don’t go for it, I ain’t doing it out of my own pocket for a corrupt inspector. He needs to lose his job.


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## readydave8 (Sep 20, 2009)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> No, there is no requirement to be beside the panel.
> The requirement is that it is within 50'. I also saw this referenced in at least one other thread here where the inspector failed the EC because he wanted a GFCI beside the panel. Oh well.
> 
> Do I care? No. It's 15 minutes! And it makes it easy for other contractors to know that there is a safe receptacle where they can expect to find it. That's a GOOD thing; if something happens to some idiot who leaves his extension cord in a puddle, I don't want to be blamed.


We're not talking about whether or not the receptacle is a good thing, we are talking about whether or not it is required and therefore called out on inspection report, remember?:wink:


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## Greg Sparkovich (Sep 15, 2007)

readydave8 said:


> We're not talking about whether or not the receptacle is a good thing, we are talking about whether or not it is required and therefore called out on inspection report, remember?:wink:


True.

Thanks for your input folks.


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## Wirenuting (Sep 12, 2010)

From what I've seen and what I've read, 
Home inspectors are 99%, "I believe" & 1 % "Is required now". 

An arbitrary list that's good all over is a waste of time. 
I might as well be a Dr because I read that red meat on a BBQ might kill you later..


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## LARMGUY (Aug 22, 2010)

splatz said:


> How do you test for fire ******ant paint?


I guess it's kinda the same as testing a fuse. 

That one was good.
That one was good.
That one was good.
That one was good.
That one was good.
That one was good.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

3DDesign said:


> Some ovens are 20 amp, 240 Volt. Of course this is a single oven not a range.


I just returned to a home I wired in 2005. 
I installed a Tesla car charger for the guy , but did load calc
for him first.

I have (1) micro oven 240 volt / 30 amp and another single oven
@ 240 volt 30 amp. Still have my job book for this home including
all appliance books (specs). The definitely were 240 volt / 30 amp.


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

Greg Sparkovich said:


> Really good points from some folks.
> Just to clarify:
> I have never actually done this. I get asked to, but I haven't done it -mostly because the vast majority of problems I see are in wall cases. And I am NOT going to go into wall cases since that is asking for liability issues (eg, Hack's crumbing insulation issue).
> I agree that "examine" or "observe" is better language; I'll work that out with my lawyer.
> ...


speaking just for my own previous comments...

I wasn't being negative to you on the basis of you're
desire to transition some of your biz to doing inspections...

I am articulating the laws and regulations I as an Ohioan 
would need to follow if I wanted to get into the biz of 
"inspecting" , particularly "electrical inspections".

I don't know what state your in , so I can't comment on 
your specific situation , but in my state , the state Electrical 
Contractor's license is not the same as a state Electrical Safety 
Inspectors certification.

I just got my letter back from my state application approving
me to test for my "Electrical Safety Inspector" certification .

It's definitely (2) different categories here.

Now ask me ...as an EC...what's the difference between going to 
a home and recommending upgrades based on a review of the
electrical install and conditioning of electrical equipment vs going 
to a persons home and "inspecting"?


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

lighterup said:


> Now ask me ...as an EC...what's the difference between going to
> a home and recommending upgrades based on a review of the
> electrical install and conditioning of electrical equipment vs going
> to a persons home and "inspecting"?



I fail to see why I couldn't legally inspect something that I can legally install from scratch.


Fúćk lawyers. :biggrin:


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

LARMGUY said:


> That one was good.
> That one was good.
> That one was good.
> That one was good.
> ...





Thank god I just got the coffee down in time, lol.


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## scotch (Oct 17, 2013)

For Telco portable bldgs ...plywood walls , ceiling and floor we used a borax-water solution rolled on both sides and then a latex on the finish side when the plywood was up....fire ******ant and insect resistant !


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## lighterup (Jun 14, 2013)

CTshockhazard said:


> *I fail to see why* I couldn't legally inspect something that I can legally install from scratch.
> 
> 
> Fúćk lawyers. :biggrin:


so do I...except for the differences in liability...Is there
any certification differences in your state?


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## CTshockhazard (Aug 28, 2009)

lighterup said:


> so do I...except for the differences in liability...Is there
> any certification differences in your state?



Inspection licensure merely grants 'permission' to perform inspections as an agent for a city/town or state.


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