# Surface mount sconce on brick



## HackWork

I have a customer who wants a sconce installed on his outside brick wall. This is light colored brick.

I can easily get power there and pop out thru a small hole in the brick, but I don't want to have to core a big hole for a box, I would rather surface mount some type of box, the customer is fine with that.

Arlington makes a paintable siding block with a flat back that I can tapcon to the brick wall:









Any other suggestions?


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## Going_Commando

Those arlington siding blocks are the tits. All the brick stuff ive done has been commercial but i roto hammer and chisel out for a pancake box.


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## Dennis Alwon

I hate those things. I usually just cut out for a switch box because that gives me access to fish the wire out easily. I also don't like seeing a box surface mounted. 

If that is easiest for you then do it but depending on the light fixture it could be an issue


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## mitch65

HackWork said:


> I have a customer who wants a sconce installed on his outside brick wall. This is light colored brick.
> 
> I can easily get power there and pop out thru a small hole in the brick, but I don't want to have to core a big hole for a box, I would rather surface mount some type of box, the customer is fine with that.
> 
> Arlington makes a paintable siding block with a flat back that I can tapcon to the brick wall:
> 
> View attachment 93674
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions?


Take it to the auto body shop and colour match it to the fixture, nobody will even see it and the paint will last forever.(cheaper if you have a buddy that runs the shop).


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## Going_Commando

Dennis Alwon said:


> I hate those things. I usually just cut out for a switch box because that gives me access to fish the wire out easily. I also don't like seeing a box surface mounted.
> 
> If that is easiest for you then do it but depending on the light fixture it could be an issue


Blasphemy. Arlington is the greatest electrical products innovator ever. Those sconce boxes, the side saddle fan boxes, black button connectors, in and out boxes, Dri-boxes, snap in MC connectors, multi-fit MC connectors, etc. I ****ing love Arlington Industries.


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## HackWork

I like Arlington too and think the siding blocks are great for siding, I have used dozens of them. I was just wondering if there was something different for brick.

G_C, what's an in and out box?


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## Going_Commando

HackWork said:


> I like Arlington too and think the siding blocks are great for siding, I have used dozens of them. I was just wondering if there was something different for brick.
> 
> G_C, what's an in and out box?


Apparently Arlington calls them something different. I thought they were called in and out boxes. They are adjustable depth device boxes that I f'n love in kitchens with flaky homeowners and kitchen designers:
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/specialty-boxes/non-metallic-outlet-box-for-new-construction/

They also have adjustable depth fixture boxes, which I will be getting. That will make setting boxes with strapped ceilings easier than cutting hunks of strapping to get the box so it sits flush with the sheetrock. Apparently those are what they call inout boxes:
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/specialty-boxes/in-out-box-for-ceiling-fixtures/


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## Going_Commando

Oh yeah, and the arlington floor boxes are the best thing ever. $20ish bucks, adjustable depth for whatever the flooring is, and they look good too.


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## Majewski

Arlington rocks for different types of boxes! Hack I am in the boat that likes these surface
Boxes with some nice matched paint and clear weatherproof silicone.


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## splatz

I may be the only one but I don't know if the plastic matches the brick. Could you use one of the cement trim things that they use with stone veneer walls? 










That one goes around a regular octagon box


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## HackWork

splatz said:


> I may be the only one but I don't know if the plastic matches the brick. Could you use one of the cement trim things that they use with stone veneer walls?
> 
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> That one goes around a regular octagon box


That must be 1-1/2" deep if it goes around a round box, so it will stick out from the house twice as much as the Arlington. It's a nice looking block though.


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## jw0445

I just core drill to pancake depth and chip it out with the roto chisel. Takes 10 minutes and you're done and it will look good.


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## HackWork

jw0445 said:


> I just core drill to pancake depth and chip it out with the roto chisel. Takes 10 minutes and you're done and it will look good.


Yeah, me too, when I want to do that.


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## splatz

HackWork said:


> That must be 1-1/2" deep if it goes around a round box, so it will stick out from the house twice as much as the Arlington. It's a nice looking block though.


Good eye, they're even a little deeper - 1.75"


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## Blitzer

These are great, my boss doesn't have to tell me to do free air connections behind a light anymore.

"Put an L16 on it though so that no one can pull the BX back into the building..."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HackWork

Blitzer said:


> These are great, my boss doesn't have to tell me to do free air connections behind a light anymore.
> 
> "Put an L16 on it though so that no one can pull the BX back into the building..."
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I like your boss. :yes:


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## telsa

You make my heart warm for stucco. :yes:


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