# Greenlee Drill/Tap



## RunningSparky (Feb 9, 2013)

Anyone have any firsthand experience with these combo taps? I have about 100 holes (6-32) to do and looking to speed up the process. I've always done by hand, but 100 could get tedious.


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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

i have used similar bits and had no problem, but why 100 holes? did someone really screw up?:laughing:


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## Jhellwig (Jun 18, 2014)

The 6-32s are far to easy to break. They work better if you drill a pilot hole but that kind of defeats the purpose.


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## papaotis (Jun 8, 2013)

actually J, the bits shown drill the pilot hole.


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## Wireless (Jan 22, 2007)

Do NOT use them in an impact driver! Unless you wang to replace a bunch of them!


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## Jhellwig (Jun 18, 2014)

papaotis said:


> actually J, the bits shown drill the pilot hole.


I know but if you are using them on anything thicker than the metal of a junction box it is a lot easier with a pilot hole. I have snapped several 6-32 drill taps in a row just on panel backplanes.


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## Bogart (Jul 20, 2015)

I have used this kit for years now and though I have broken a few...I typically use the following methods with success...


 Use a cutting fluid...it is there for a reason..my preference is Lenox protool it is water soluble and cleans up easily

 Drill at low speeds....and let the drill do the work so little to no pressure. Reason you guys are breaking so many of the small taps is because your applying too much pressure causing the bit/tap to flex

 If using a cordless, which we all pretty much do, set it on low speed and set the clutch to the high end of the lower third...i usually use 6 on my Bosch driver. At the first sign of clutch grab, stop, back off, then go forward again....

 If you still find yourself breaking the bits then I suggest going back to the separate drill and taps


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Bogart said:


> I have used this kit for years now and though I have broken a few...I typically use the following methods with success...
> 
> 
> Use a cutting fluid...it is there for a reason..my preference is Lenox protool it is water soluble and cleans up easily
> ...


Ditto Bogart -- in every possible way. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Southeast Power (Jan 18, 2009)

RunningSparky said:


> Anyone have any firsthand experience with these combo taps? I have about 100 holes (6-32) to do and looking to speed up the process. I've always done by hand, but 100 could get tedious.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 66954


Those look metric.
I have that kit and use it every chance I get.
Just buy a few extra 6-32 bits. they are going to break but the time an money you can save after a small learning curve is a game changer.
I also bought a couple of 3/8-16, 1/4-20 and extra 10-32. Those are most common for me.
Problem is, people see me use them and want to give it a try. Most of the time it goes very well but, people get a little overconfident with them and then they break.
I have never had reason to use cutting fluid with then as we usually only drill through sheet metal.

The 3/8 saved me hours of work and quite a few bucks on hardware on one job.

Dont leave home without it.


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## Wpgshocker (Jan 25, 2013)

Cutting oil for sure. And a center punch to mark.

I have used those in my impact for years. 
The trick is not to be stupid. I use the lowest speed/torque setting. 
They are brittle and will snap if you look at them the wrong way.

Ideally, use a drill and clutch. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## The_Modifier (Oct 24, 2009)

We use them all the time on trim out on resi boxes since the quality of the boxes has really gone down hill the past few years. If used properly they actually last for a while.

We use them in our impact guns and no oil, but that being said. We are only doing 2 holes per box for the 6/32 device screws and occasionally the 8/32 lighting boxes.


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

i have use them a lot on cordless drill with clutch (i hate impacts!!) but now use A/D ones since they are cheaper but they are very similar (probably made from same company!)


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

RunningSparky said:


> Anyone have any firsthand experience with these combo taps? I have about 100 holes (6-32) to do and looking to speed up the process. I've always done by hand, but 100 could get tedious.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 66954


One of the best things to come out in the last 10 years. Well other than the cordless bandsaws.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

Wpgshocker said:


> Cutting oil for sure. And a center punch to mark.
> 
> I have used those in my impact for years.
> The trick is not to be stupid. I use the lowest speed/torque setting.
> ...


Same. I am going on 2 years with my kit. I have only used the 6-32 one in thin metal. Mostly use them in my M12 Fuel impact, with Forney Tap Magic oil.


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## 3xdad (Jan 25, 2011)

i have broken a few, but use them all the time.

One problem i found is that they magnetize, so after the pilot is drilled, stop and clean off then slowly tap.

Do you guys build your own de-magnatisers?


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## ponyboy (Nov 18, 2012)

Those things are consumables. No different than jobber bits, hole saws, and unibits. If you buy that set thinking it's going to last you years, you're going to have a bad time. I like them though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Monkeyboy (Jul 28, 2012)

They're very nice & fewer things to lose.


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## RunningSparky (Feb 9, 2013)

ponyboy said:


> Those things are consumables. No different than jobber bits, hole saws, and unibits. If you buy that set thinking it's going to last you years, you're going to have a bad time. I like them though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed...that's why my employer will buy them for me.


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## LuckyLuke (Jun 1, 2015)

I love these but only use them if I have just a few holes to do. Otherwise I use my Ruko bit and tap.


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## Gnome (Dec 25, 2013)

I've done hundreds of #8 and #10 in back plates with them with a M12 drill. Haven't broke one yet. I use cutting oil most times though admit I occasionally won't if I only have a couple holes to tap.

I think the smaller drill is easier to hold consistently square. I'd bet I'd be breaking them all the time if I used a big 18V Fuel.


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## wendon (Sep 27, 2010)

Love em!


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Harbor Freight sells _equivalent_ drill-taps for far less. :thumbsup:

Impossible to pass up that deal.:thumbup:


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

I am old school for the most part but here recently I have been using a keyless chuck in the 1/4" impact driver and drilling a hole then using the impact driver to twist the tap. I use it on everything from 6/32 to 1/2-13. Works fine not broken any taps.
Wile on the subject of drilling and tapping more and more of the internet machinist are using Anchorlube as taping fluid. It looks like green shaving cream.Works grate on stainless as well as other steels. Fastenal has it.

Still not a big fan if battery operated tools but I use the 1/4" impact driver all the time in my shop.

LC


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

Lone Crapshooter said:


> I am old school for the most part but here recently I have been using a keyless chuck in the 1/4" impact driver and drilling a hole then using the impact driver to twist the tap. I use it on everything from 6/32 to 1/2-13. Works fine not broken any taps.
> Wile on the subject of drilling and tapping more and more of the internet machinist are using Anchorlube as taping fluid. It looks like green shaving cream.Works grate on stainless as well as other steels. Fastenal has it.
> 
> Still not a big fan if battery operated tools but I use the 1/4" impact driver all the time in my shop.
> ...


I heartily ditto that.

That stuff is terrific.

Like shaving cream -- it stays where you need it -- and does not splatter around nearly as much as thin oils.

&&&

In case this is news: sodium caseinate is an extremely common ingredient in cutting lubricants. 

It's entirely derived from milk powder. 

Industrial consumption of dry milk products in this way would astound you. In a production setting, the fellas go through it by the barrel.

In a pinch, you can use everything from sour cream to yogurt as a lubricant -- primarily for stainless steels.

They are better than nothing -- though quite inferior to Anchorlube. 

I presume that the caseinate coagulates the lubricant -- thus keeping it near the 'action.' 

Strangely, regular motor oil -- even the heavy stuff -- is not really helpful with stainless. I don't know why.

Sodium caseinate's real claim to glory -- it's what those allergic to milk are _really_ allergic to. It's a protein.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

I have no idea of the pricing...

But I'd seriously consider paying up for titanium drill-taps.

Indeed, I'd hope that at some point some crazy guy would bring out a line of titanium tools for us electricians.

The dang framers have had the blessings of titanium framing hammers -- for years.

The fellas tell me that they are wrist savers.

Even though the hammer is a momentum tool, titanium hammers with lower weights drive nails something crazy. 

Framers readily pay four to six times as much for a professional titanium hammer as for a conventional steel one.

Perhaps it's because a titanium tool would last until it was stolen -- puts people off ?


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

I'd pay UP for a titanium triple tap.

I'd pay UP for a titanium Phillips screwdriver.

The Klein's is TOO soft at the tip.


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## RunningSparky (Feb 9, 2013)

2 cans...132 drilled/tapped holes later. 
Only used one bit...thanks to all your advice. Low and slow, use the clutch on the drill. Worked like a charm. Thanks everyone.


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## vinister (Apr 11, 2012)

Wireless said:


> Do NOT use them in an impact driver! Unless you wang to replace a bunch of them!


I have the opposite advise. I've broken a few of these, but only on a regular drill, never on an impact. 

The regular drill torques them around when they get stuck, so they twist and snap. 

The impact is much more gentle in regards to twisting force, because it only gives it small movements at a time. I also use cutting fluid, I like the wax-tube type, you just dip the drill bit in there for each hole. 

Be careful as you back the bit out, especially the smaller sizes, because if you have a big burr on the bit it will damage the threads in the hole a little bit.


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## Grogan14 (Jul 16, 2009)

I received a Klein set to review. They look like the same exact thing as the HF set, just like the Greenlee. I suppose it's possible that they are made with a better alloy or something, but who knows.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

RunningSparky said:


> 2 cans...132 drilled/tapped holes later.
> Only used one bit...thanks to all your advice. Low and slow, use the clutch on the drill. Worked like a charm. Thanks everyone.
> 
> 
> View attachment 67074


Why no backplate?


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

telsa said:


> Harbor Freight sells _equivalent_ drill-taps for far less. :thumbsup:
> 
> Impossible to pass up that deal.:thumbup:


$13 compared to $40? I am gonna give them a shot.


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## RunningSparky (Feb 9, 2013)

sbrn33 said:


> Why no backplate?


Will be mounting individual UL-924 emergency relays


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## Dan the electricman (Jan 2, 2011)

telsa said:


> Harbor Freight sells _equivalent_ drill-taps for far less. :thumbsup:
> 
> Impossible to pass up that deal.:thumbup:


Telsa is correct. These are great! :thumbup:

http://www.harborfreight.com/sae-drill-tap-deburr-bit-set.html


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## freeagnt54 (Aug 6, 2008)

vinister said:


> I have the opposite advise. I've broken a few of these, but only on a regular drill, never on an impact.
> 
> The regular drill torques them around when they get stuck, so they twist and snap.
> 
> ...


I agree. I only use my greenlee taps in my impact and I don't remember the last time I broke one, I've even tapped 1/4 to 3/8 steel. 

I've found that the guys who hate impacts just don't know how to use the tool properly.


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

freeagnt54 said:


> I agree. I only use my greenlee taps in my impact and I don't remember the last time I broke one, I've even tapped 1/4 to 3/8 steel.
> 
> I've found that the guys who hate impacts just don't know how to use the tool properly.


I would say the same about those who hates drills that dont know how to use the clutch and proper gear :icon_wink:


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## te12co2w (Jun 3, 2007)

RunningSparky said:


> 2 cans...132 drilled/tapped holes later.
> Only used one bit...thanks to all your advice. Low and slow, use the clutch on the drill. Worked like a charm. Thanks everyone.
> 
> 
> View attachment 67074


 How long to complete one can, from layout to cleanup?


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## RunningSparky (Feb 9, 2013)

te12co2w said:


> How long to complete one can, from layout to cleanup?


The first can, I think the company lost money...took me darn near all day...huge learning curve. Ha!

Second one shown, three hours from pencil layout to 2" knockouts & wall mounted.


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## nbb (Jul 12, 2014)

oliquir said:


> I would say the same about those who hates drills that dont know how to use the clutch and proper gear :icon_wink:


I prefer my impact because it is capable of more torque, higher RPMs, and weighs much less than my drill. Not fair though, as my impact is a brushless and the drill is a brushed hammer drill. Now that I have a roto-hammer the hammer function on the handheld drill barely ever gets used.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Love them too. Break them, lose them, buy more. Can't imagine being without them for long.


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## Wireless (Jan 22, 2007)

freeagnt54 said:


> I agree. I only use my greenlee taps in my impact and I don't remember the last time I broke one, I've even tapped 1/4 to 3/8 steel. I've found that the guys who hate impacts just don't know how to use the tool properly.


How did you jump to "hating" impacts?! Each tool has it uses


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## freeagnt54 (Aug 6, 2008)

oliquir said:


> i have use them a lot on cordless drill with clutch (i hate impacts!!) but now use A/D ones since they are cheaper but they are very similar (probably made from same company!)





Wireless said:


> How did you jump to "hating" impacts?! Each tool has it uses


Oliquir brought up his hate of impacts, but i wasn't directing that comment ar him. I run into guys all the time who hate impacts and refuse to use them because "they break everything".


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## Gnome (Dec 25, 2013)

I dislike them mostly because of the noise and for me they don't, with one narrow exception, seem to provide anything I don't get out of a regular cordless drill/driver. That Brapp-Bap-Bap-Bap-Bap-Bap-Bap-Bap-Bap seems to cut right through ear plugs.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

I buy from a local nut an bolt supply house. I buy packs of each size I want by 50 each, it ends up costing about the same as one of those greenlee 
sets, and they seem to last longer. I chuck them into a drill and run it slow speed.


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