# M12 Jigsaw



## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

Any body have one of these jigsaws? Been thinking about getting one.


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## tjb (Feb 12, 2014)

Would love to hear input too.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

No but if you get it and ship it to me, I would.


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## OldMasterTech (Mar 12, 2014)

I've had the jigsaw for over a year, great tool as you don't have to fight a cord when turning a tight radius. Was impressed with very low vibration.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

OldMasterTech said:


> I've had the jigsaw for over a year, great tool as you don't have to fight a cord when turning a tight radius. Was impressed with very low vibration.


Not something I would use often but seeing them in the Depot it looks like a quality tool that would be handy when needed.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I was thinking of buying one and then they came out with the jigsaw blade for the Hackzall.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

It looks like it would be pretty underpowered, especially because it's not Fuel.

I think 99cents hit the nail on the head, the Hackzall could most likely do everything the jigsaw could do... unless you are looking to make really tight scrolls.


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

99cents said:


> I was thinking of buying one and then they came out with the jigsaw blade for the Hackzall.


That what i did buy few blades for that puropse..

It save a bit of headache especally with very tight spots.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> I was thinking of buying one and then they came out with the jigsaw blade for the Hackzall.


That is what I am using now. But there isn't much variety in the blade patterns for the hackzall in the scroll pattern and the grip is odd for some precision cutting.


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## Barjack (Mar 28, 2010)

I've often thought about justifying the need for a jig saw. I just can't really think of anything I'd use it for.

Cutting boxes into cabinets I guess.

But I already have the Milwaukee 18V hackzall, and the Dewalt 20V oscillating tool. I chose the Dewalt over the Milwaukee because it has a variable speed trigger, and has a better feel in my hands. It's great for busting old boxes out of lathe and plaster.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I have a corded jigsaw, I use it for household projects once in a while but seldom bring it to work. 

There are two nice things about a jigsaw, you can make circular cuts, and you can start a cut in a 1/4" hole. I'll probably use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to make some square holes in a control panel for some panel meters I am installing. If I can find a panel meter I like that mounts through a circular hole, then I will save that trouble and use a hole saw which will take much less time. If I forget to pack the jigsaw and a suitable blade, I'll have to use a hand nibbler, which will take ten times as long, but isn't the end of the world, and is cleaner. 

I think a corded jigsaw is better unless you're going to use it a lot. I think it will probably outperform a 12V jigsaw since a really fast moving blade is sometimes a big advantage. More importantly, in five years or so when the M12 is replaced by the K12 or something, an M12 jigsaw will be a paperweight. You have to get your use out of your cordless tools in the short run.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Barjack said:


> I've often thought about justifying the need for a jig saw. I just can't really think of anything I'd use it for.
> 
> Cutting boxes into cabinets I guess.
> 
> But I already have the Milwaukee 18V hackzall, and the Dewalt 20V oscillating tool. I chose the Dewalt over the Milwaukee because it has a variable speed trigger, and has a better feel in my hands. It's great for busting old boxes out of lathe and plaster.


Yeah, I have a 120V oscillating tool which is a bit more powerful and use that for everything, cabinets, plaster, etc.


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

Barjack said:


> I've often thought about justifying the need for a jig saw. I just can't really think of anything I'd use it for.
> 
> Cutting boxes into cabinets I guess.
> 
> But I already have the Milwaukee 18V hackzall, and the Dewalt 20V oscillating tool. I chose the Dewalt over the Milwaukee because it has a variable speed trigger, and has a better feel in my hands. It's great for busting old boxes out of lathe and plaster.


I never cut boxes in the cabinets. 1 mistake and you bought the cabinet. I just tell the cabinet installer where I want the hole and give him the box.

I agree the oscillating tool is great for plaster and lathe, but some of that old plaster is deadly on the blades. Wish they had a blade that could last a whole house


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

wcord said:


> I never cut boxes in the cabinets. 1 mistake and you bought the cabinet. I just tell the cabinet installer where I want the hole and give him the box.
> 
> I agree the oscillating tool is great for plaster and lathe, but some of that old plaster is deadly on the blades. Wish they had a blade that could last a wole house


I use Imperial grit blades, they last a long time..

www.imperialblades.com/products-3/iboa640-one-fit-1-14-carbide-grit-blade/


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

wcord said:


> I never cut boxes in the cabinets. 1 mistake and you bought the cabinet. I just tell the cabinet installer where I want the hole and give him the box.
> 
> I agree the oscillating tool is great for plaster and lathe, but some of that old plaster is deadly on the blades. Wish they had a blade that could last a wole house


If I can suck someone else into cutting the cabinet, I will. Sometimes it just doesn't work that way. I'm ultra slow and methodical with cabinetry. Only once did I screw up and made a cut in the wrong direction. I ended up turning a single gang into a two gang. I told the homeowner I put in a two gang especially for her and she was ecstatic  .


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I usually just drill a hole in the back of the cabinet and install a shallow 1900 with mulberry cover.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I usually just drill a hole in the back of the cabinet and install a shallow 1900 with mulberry cover.


I had to look that up. Translation to Canadian - 4 X 4 box with plaster ring. Is that right, Hack?

How do you fasten it? I have been known to put a piece of lumber on each side of the box and fasten it down with PL400. I hate using remodel boxes in cabinetry.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> I had to look that up. Translation to Canadian - 4 X 4 box with plaster ring. Is that right, Hack?
> 
> How do you fasten it? I have been known to put a piece of lumber on each side of the box and fasten it down with PL400. I hate using remodel boxes in cabinetry.


Sorry, yeah, a 4" square box with a surface mount cover.

The cabinet installers just drill a small hole to pass the wire thru when installing the cabinet. Then I put the cable into the back of the box and screw the box into the back of the cabinet.

It may not be the prettiest thing in the world, but it's usually in a high cabinet that no one can see into anyway.

Edit: I just realized that you may be talking about cutting a box into the side of an exposed cabinet, like an island. In that situation I just use plastic old work boxes.

My above posts were talking about outlet boxes in the cabinet above the microwave and under the sink for the DW or disposal.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

wcord said:


> I never cut boxes in the cabinets. 1 mistake and you bought the cabinet. I just tell the cabinet installer where I want the hole and give him the box.
> 
> I agree the oscillating tool is great for plaster and lathe, but some of that old plaster is deadly on the blades. Wish they had a blade that could last a whole house


I second that! Same with the pucks too. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

HackWork said:


> Edit: I just realized that you may be talking about cutting a box into the side of an exposed cabinet, like an island. In that situation I just use plastic old work boxes.
> 
> .


I like the smooth sided boxes for cabinet. No notching for the protrusions. That way, if I absolutely have to cut the hole, less chance of messing up

BC2014-LRB


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

wcord said:


> I like the smooth sided boxes for cabinet. No notching for the protrusions
> 
> BC2014-LRB


That's nice, I have never seen that. I would use those in most places if I found them available here.

You guys can't use plastic boxes up there? They are so much bigger inside, I love them.


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

Unless there is a chase in the cabinets for the romex I use MC cable. Therefore no plastic box.










Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

HackWork said:


> That's nice, I have never seen that. I would use those in most places if I found them available here.
> 
> You guys can't use plastic boxes up there? They are so much bigger inside, I love them.


We got plastic, along with running water lol
Seriously, plastic really hasn't taken off (at least in my area)

When I was doing custom homes, I tried a few different types, and really wasn't impressed. IIRC, they were a tad more expensive than the metal ones


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

zac said:


> Unless there is a chase in the cabinets for the romex I use MC cable. Therefore no plastic box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


I hate romex for this reason, rather stick with MC.


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

I like plastic old work for islands or even under sinks and microwave recep. But if it's mc, what zac showed gets used. BUT hacks method of the surface box in the rarely seen areas does seem smart and easier to get done.


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## Barjack (Mar 28, 2010)

wcord said:


> I never cut boxes in the cabinets. 1 mistake and you bought the cabinet. I just tell the cabinet installer where I want the hole and give him the box.
> 
> I agree the oscillating tool is great for plaster and lathe, but some of that old plaster is deadly on the blades. Wish they had a blade that could last a whole house




Bosch, and now Dewalt make a carbide blade that will cut hard plaster. I just got the Dewalt blade, but I've had the Bosch one for at least a year. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Majewski (Jan 8, 2016)

HackWork said:


> I use Imperial grit blades, they last a long time..
> 
> www.imperialblades.com/products-3/iboa640-one-fit-1-14-carbide-grit-blade/


These are what I use. Hands down my fav blades! The diamond ones for rough spots. American made too!


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Majewski said:


> I like plastic old work for islands or even under sinks and microwave recep. But if it's mc, what zac showed gets used. BUT hacks method of the surface box in the rarely seen areas does seem smart and easier to get done.


I'll put my 4 X 4 for the microwave in the cabinet and also any JB's for the UC lighting. Then the GC builds a removable box to cover it up. If it's just UC lighting I put it in the useless cabinet above the fridge.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> That's nice, I have never seen that. I would use those in most places if I found them available here.
> 
> You guys can't use plastic boxes up there? They are so much bigger inside, I love them.


Just ask for a non gangable switch box

RACO #410, #487, #508 

Steel City SWB 25

Appleton #94


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

99cents said:


> I'll put my 4 X 4 for the microwave in the cabinet and also any JB's for the UC lighting. Then the GC builds a removable box to cover it up. If it's just UC lighting I put it in the useless cabinet above the fridge.


If there is the need for UC lighting JB's, or, power supplies, we put them in the kick space under the lowers. Pick a section with a drawer, cut a nice sized access hole in the bottom. Only time you see the hole is when the drawer is removed, otherwise it's totally hidden. 
No messy wires in the uppers


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## frenchelectrican (Mar 15, 2007)

wcord said:


> If there is the need for UC lighting JB's, or, power supplies, we put them in the kick space under the lowers. Pick a section with a drawer, cut a nice sized access hole in the bottom. Only time you see the hole is when the drawer is removed, otherwise it's totally hidden.
> No messy wires in the uppers


That is a nice trick and I will remember that one as long the wall is not insluated it will be easy to do it...


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## wcord (Jan 23, 2011)

HackWork said:


> It looks like it would be pretty underpowered, especially because it's not Fuel.
> 
> I think 99cents hit the nail on the head, the Hackzall could most likely do everything the jigsaw could do... unless you are looking to make really tight scrolls.


One of my guys really likes this unit. He's been using it for cabinet boxes and rework for plaster and lathe. Like mentioned, he uses the jigsaw blade


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## zac (May 11, 2009)

wcord said:


> One of my guys really likes this unit. He's been using it for cabinet boxes and rework for plaster and lathe. Like mentioned, he uses the jigsaw blade


I've used that to cut 1" 1/4 EMT.
I was working for someone for the day and they're bandsaw broke. It really is a great little cutter. 
It however will burn out when cutting through two layers of drywall. I've had 3 go bad from this. Other then that I use it almost daily. 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

splatz said:


> I have a corded jigsaw, I use it for household projects once in a while but seldom bring it to work.
> 
> There are two nice things about a jigsaw, you can make circular cuts, and you can start a cut in a 1/4" hole. I'll probably use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to make some square holes in a control panel for some panel meters I am installing. If I can find a panel meter I like that mounts through a circular hole, then I will save that trouble and use a hole saw which will take much less time. If I forget to pack the jigsaw and a suitable blade, I'll have to use a hand nibbler, which will take ten times as long, but isn't the end of the world, and is cleaner.
> 
> I think a corded jigsaw is better unless you're going to use it a lot. I think it will probably outperform a 12V jigsaw since a really fast moving blade is sometimes a big advantage. More importantly, in five years or so when the M12 is replaced by the K12 or something, an M12 jigsaw will be a paperweight. You have to get your use out of your cordless tools in the short run.


I've got a corded jig saw and the cord is always a PIA, I also have a DeWalt 18v jig saw but it's huge and heavy. I thought the M12 would be nice as long as it's powerful.


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## duque00 (Sep 11, 2008)

I use this for cabinets and the like....


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## Anathera (Feb 16, 2016)

we use the rigid corded oscillating tool, cool thing is you can swap it for a jigsaw head, couple handy tools in one. As far as the osculating blades for plaster once we burn up a cheap metal/wood blade and use tin snips to cut tight V's in it, digs through plaster and drywall pretty fast and you can always cut it down again if it becomes dull. Same blade can last a good long while.


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