# Best Meggar?



## Zog (Apr 15, 2009)

Mike Guile said:


> I think it's time for me to get a meggar. Had a few house fires around here. There seems to be a bizillion ones out there. I just want want to test mostly residential for after fires. I like small, in a pouch, and very reliable. I'll pay more if something is really good but don't need any bells and whistles. Good warranty.
> 
> Thanks


It seems the Fluke 1507 is great for the application you are describing. I never owned one myself, won't do what I need it to do, but maybe some 1507 lovers can chime in.


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## Thayer (Sep 22, 2008)

I have had great luck with my 1507. Overall, its a great little insulation tester with a wide voltage range. I have used the 50 and 100 volt settings to test underground telephone as well as other LV cables.


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## drsparky (Nov 13, 2008)

How about a AN/PSM-2; no batteries needed, just turn the crank.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

For what you describe you want to use it for, there's three meggers that I've been recommending. The Supco M-500 ($100), the Extech 403360 ($130), and the Fluke 1507 ($425).


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## Mike Guile (Jan 14, 2010)

*better*

I like those price options better. I doubt I would ever do more than 4 a year. So for me, I might go more inexpensive on that tool, as long as it is accurate.


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## Advanced37 (Jan 11, 2010)

drsparky said:


> How about a AN/PSM-2; no batteries needed, just turn the crank.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Mike Guile said:


> I like those price options better. I doubt I would ever do more than 4 a year. So for me, I might go more inexpensive on that tool, as long as it is accurate.


Yeah, if all you ever use it for is Pass/Fail testing on fire and water damage jobs, the cheaper one's will work fine for you. In my experience, the accuract is not so important in that type of work. The cable will either be really good or really bad. I think you will be amazed, however, at how many cables seem visually okay (that you might have left in tact before) that the megger proves should be replaced. I think it's safe to say that you'll pay for whatever meter you buy on the first job.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

I bought the 1507 and I like it alot. I use it to test mainly resi problems, like gfi issues. Check ebay, I got mine for like 200 and it is in perfect condition.


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## Lone Crapshooter (Nov 8, 2008)

I like my Fluke 1587 it has voltages of 50,100,250,500,1000. I work a lot with 480 volt equipment both at work and away from work.
the 1587 does a real nice job for me.
LC
Listen Think Solve


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## Mike Guile (Jan 14, 2010)

*Exotech v.s. Supco*

Of the above megometers

The Exotech is sleek and has 4 AAA batteries which I like but, I think is only 1,000V??? Is that 1,000V only or can you crank up to that?? Couldn't tell from specs.

The Supco is only 500V from what I see. Bulkier, C batteries which I hate.

I would basically only use this for residential applications. I think you mentioned before that running 1000V on NM might be pushing it??? 

I was going to buy it now but I'd rather wait and hear some more comments first.


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

Mike Guile said:


> Of the above megometers
> 
> The Exotech is sleek and has 4 AAA batteries which I like but, I think is only 1,000V??? Is that 1,000V only or can you crank up to that?? Couldn't tell from specs.
> 
> ...


I wouldnt test NM on 1kv. Its rated for 600V, not 1kv.

Question to the forum:
I always test at 250V for residential - Should I be testing at 500?

~Matt


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## Mike Guile (Jan 14, 2010)

*New Toy*

I talked with the tech today for a bit and bought this nice extech meggar.

http://www.extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=35&prodid=144

It has 250,500,and 1000V 

Should cover all my needs. Does it look ok? $220


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

Mike Guile said:


> I talked with the tech today for a bit and bought this nice extech meggar.
> 
> http://www.extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=35&prodid=144
> 
> ...


For that price you can get a Fluke on ebay. Check it out before you invest any money.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

TOOL_5150 said:


> I wouldnt test NM on 1kv. Its rated for 600V, not 1kv.
> 
> Question to the forum:
> I always test at 250V for residential - Should I be testing at 500?
> ...


Marc posted some good info on another thread. I was testing @ 1000v and he said it wasn't a big deal, but he recomends testing @ 500v. He gave a bunch of guidelines too.

http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/gfci-breaker-good-bad-11810/index2/#post188076


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

Here's a Fluke 1507 current bidding at $127.50 (1day 11hrs left)
Used but says it's in "great condition"










http://cgi.ebay.com/FLUKE-1507-INSU...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5639b84087


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

NolaTigaBait said:


> Marc posted some good info on another thread. I was testing @ 1000v and he said it wasn't a big deal, but he recomends testing @ 500v. He gave a bunch of guidelines too.
> 
> http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/gfci-breaker-good-bad-11810/index2/#post188076


Yea, that was a good thread. :thumbsup:


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

Thats the one I have, it will shoot up to over $200 by tomorrow.


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

Here's a Fluke 1587 going at $175 (3days left)
Says it was used maybe once. Would be a good choice.










http://cgi.ebay.com/FLUKE-1587-INSU...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item58862197a6


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## Zog (Apr 15, 2009)

TOOL_5150 said:


> I wouldnt test NM on 1kv. Its rated for 600V, not 1kv.
> 
> Question to the forum:
> I always test at 250V for residential - Should I be testing at 500?
> ...


Here are the minimum ASNI/NETA recommend test voltages for non inductive equipment.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

i test 600v cable at 1000v test 300v cable at 500v

usually you just double the voltage for what the cable is rated for. its such low amps you wont destroy insulation


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

Zog said:


> Here are the minimum ASNI/NETA recommend test voltages for non inductive equipment.


Thanks for the table. So any conductors rated at 600v need to be tested at 1000v.


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## Zog (Apr 15, 2009)

Grimlock said:


> Thanks for the table. So any conductors rated at 600v need to be tested at 1000v.


Yep, thats why they call it an overpotential test.


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

Zog said:


> Yep, thats why they call it an overpotential test.


Got it, thanks. :thumbsup:


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## JackBoot (Feb 14, 2010)

Can a megger be used to help find a loose connection that might someday heat up when enough current flows thru it? Or is there any other way to do that?


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

JackBoot said:


> Can a megger be used to help find a loose connection that might someday heat up when enough current flows thru it? Or is there any other way to do that?


I'm not sure about using a megger but you can use an ideal 61 165 suretest and look for excessive resistance in the circuit.


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## Zog (Apr 15, 2009)

JackBoot said:


> Can a megger be used to help find a loose connection that might someday heat up when enough current flows thru it? Or is there any other way to do that?


Just the opposite, for that you use a microhmeter with at least a 10A output (Our specs require 100A).


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Grimlock said:


> Thanks for the table. So any conductors rated at 600v need to be tested at 1000v.


If you know what voltage the cable is operating at, it seems somewhat pointless slash borderline abusive to do an overpotential test. If you were the manufacturer of the cable, or it was new cable that you were receiving in, it might make sense to do an overpotential test before installation. I think that for ordinary troubleshooting, twice operating voltage, more or less, will suit you fine.


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> If you know what voltage the cable is operating at, it seems somewhat pointless slash borderline abusive to do an overpotential test. If you were the manufacturer of the cable, or it was new cable that you were receiving in, it might make sense to do an overpotential test before installation. I think that for ordinary troubleshooting, twice operating voltage, more or less, will suit you fine.


I thought/was told meggers where non destructive.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

nolabama said:


> I thought/was told meggers where non destructive.


If used improperly, it can absolutely be a destructive test. For instance, I'm pretty sure I could pop a phone wire testing it at 1000V. I'm pretty sure I could blowout romex if I used a HiPot. I HAVE blown old BX cable at 500 volts (got a half-decent resistive reading for a minute, then it went to dead shorted), but it's fairly clear from that result, this cable was on its way out anyhow.


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## Zog (Apr 15, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> If used improperly, it can absolutely be a destructive test.


 That goes without saying. When used properly by trained people there is nothing destructive about a megger test. 



MDShunk said:


> For instance, I'm pretty sure I could pop a phone wire testing it at 1000V.


Not used properly



MDShunk said:


> I'm pretty sure I could blowout romex if I used a HiPot.
> 
> 
> > Hipots and meggers are apples and oranges, not even the same classs of test per IEEE.
> ...


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## Mike Guile (Jan 14, 2010)

*meggar*

now your worrying me. What if I was to go do a test on a household that was struck by lightning and by using the meggar on the already practically insulationless house, blows something up. I would be liable. That would be a major loss. Does this happen often on iffy wiring from meggar testing???

If your in doubt about the insulation levels, is it better to start at 250v, then if everything looks ok, step it up at that point??


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Get a megger with lower voltage outputs. The 1507 has 50, 100, 250,500 and 1000v. Start out with 50 volts. If there's something still on the circuit, it will fail the test and you'll know it's there without burning it up.


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## Mike Guile (Jan 14, 2010)

*oops*

too late. I just bought the 250, 500, 1000 extech. Oh well. You live you learn.


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

the fluke 1508 is a good choice. a megger brand crank meter is about 1000 dollars the mj159


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

How often do you have to change the batteries in say, a 1507 or a Supco M500?


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## electricalperson (Jan 11, 2008)

i believe the 1507 has a battery indicator if im not mistaken.


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## NolaTigaBait (Oct 19, 2008)

Peter D said:


> How often do you have to change the batteries in say, a 1507 or a Supco M500?


I been having mine for over a year and used it several times. I haven't touched the batteries. It seems to work for an extended period of time.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Peter D said:


> How often do you have to change the batteries in say, a 1507 or a Supco M500?


The only time you really need to change the batteries is when you're on a really important job and have no spare batteries with you. _ -Murphy's law of tester batteries. _

I suppose that depends on how often you use it, but I have a French-made megger that takes a rechargable battery pack (pretty odd battery), and I haven't had to buy a new one in years. In the Fluke 1587 and the Supco M500 I have, I'm getting something on the order of a year out of regular Alkaline batteries. I use the Duracell one's with the little places you press to check the state of the batteries.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Ahh ok. So it's not a matter of run a test and you have to change the batteries. 

How do the cheaper ones step up the voltage? Do they operate like a flash camera and just use a big capacitor?


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## crazymurph (Aug 19, 2009)

drsparky said:


> How about a AN/PSM-2; no batteries needed, just turn the crank.


 Thats exactly what I have, got it from E-Bay for 10 bucks.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Peter D said:


> ow do the cheaper ones step up the voltage? Do they operate like a flash camera and just use a big capacitor?


I'm not sure. I've had all of mine apart, and the only part I recognized was the sinusoidal dingle arm. It appeared to rotate on 30-weight ball bearings, but I could be wrong about that. I had them apart so that I could wipe down the connections with gauze pads wet with mechurochrome. They work better than ever now.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> I'm not sure. I've had all of mine apart, and the only part I recognized was the sinusoidal dingle arm. It appeared to rotate on 30-weight ball bearings, but I could be wrong about that.


I'm assuming this was an attempt at humor. :blink:


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## JackBoot (Feb 14, 2010)

MDShunk said:


> I'm not sure. I've had all of mine apart, and the only part I recognized was the sinusoidal dingle arm. It appeared to rotate on 30-weight ball bearings, but I could be wrong about that.


You got a Turbo Encabulator too??


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> I'm not sure. I've had all of mine apart, and the only part I recognized was the sinusoidal dingle arm. It appeared to rotate on 30-weight ball bearings, but I could be wrong about that.


 
You mean you opened the case made of prefamulated amulite?!?!?









Didn't the two spurving bearings fall out? And how did you get the panendermic semiboiloid slots in the stator to line back up?


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## Zog (Apr 15, 2009)

Peter D said:


> I'm assuming this was an attempt at humor. :blink:


Quote from Fletch I think. It's all ball bearings these days!


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## JackBoot (Feb 14, 2010)

Grimlock said:


> Here's a Fluke 1507 current bidding at $127.50 (1day 11hrs left)
> Used but says it's in "great condition"
> 
> 
> ...


It's up to $202 with 3 hours left.

Still a great price compared to $450+ new.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

I stumbled on my 1507 on FleaBay for $259 as a Buy-It-Now deal. Seller had 7 for sale. Factory new.

I jumped in and got one in half a heartbeat, and about 5 minutes later the auction disappeared. Methinked the seller figured out they listed them at the wrong price.

But I still got my 1507.:thumbsup:


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## JohnJ0906 (Jan 22, 2007)

480sparky said:


> Get a megger with lower voltage outputs. The 1507 has 50, 100, 250,500 and 1000v. Start out with 50 volts. If there's something still on the circuit, it will fail the test and you'll know it's there without burning it up.





Mike Guile said:


> too late. I just bought the 250, 500, 1000 extech. Oh well. You live you learn.


Mike, start with the 200k setting. If something is still on the circuit, you will know before burning it up with the higher voltages.


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## Mike Guile (Jan 14, 2010)

*meggar*

thanks md and john. 

I'm an impulse buyer. Talking with tech and the yellow/green (john deere thing) colors made me buy it quick.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 6, 2009)

Zog said:


> Quote from Fletch I think. It's all ball bearings these days!


3n1 oil and some gauze pads.
:thumbup:


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

JackBoot said:


> It's up to $202 with 3 hours left.
> 
> Still a great price compared to $450+ new.


Looks like it sold for $285


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