# removing a box plastered to the wall



## roundrightfarm (Oct 2, 2016)

I need to move a misplaced double receptacle plastic j-box. It got placed where the range controls go and I need to move it about 6" to the right. There is lots of clear space between the studs and the wires will all be in the same bay, so I'm planning to use an old work box and it looks like the wires will all still reach.

All this is taking place in a veneer plastered wall. Luckily this whole area will get covered by a tile backsplash, so I don't need to worry about refinishing the wall.

The box that needs to be replaced is nailed to the studs and cemented in place on the surface by the plaster. What is the best way to remove this box, or at least part of it so that I can access the wires and reposition them into the new old-work box? I'll likely need some way to support a new piece of plasterboard, or other material, to serve as a backer for the tile.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

If you’re going to be installing drywall anyway, just cut out a large piece spanning from stud to stud. This way you could do your work and then replace that piece. Remember to cut the hole over the top of the stud so you have something to screw the new piece to.

Or you could just use an oscillating tool to cut the plaster away from the box, hammer the box out, finish your work, then let someone else repair the wall.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

Take a metal cutting sawzall blade and carefully cut the nails on the existing box. Take a utility knife and cut the hardcoat plaster around the perimeter of the box. That will set the box free. You'll be able to remove the wires from the box. Let the box fall inside the wall.

Cut a furring strip about 1 1/2" x 8" long and slide it in on the back side of the plaster. When you're trying to install the furring strip, add a screw to use as a handle to get it in place. 
Install two 2" drywall screws to support it, one above and one below the opening. Cut plasterboard to fit to opening and screw it to the the furring strip. One screw is all you need. Since the plaster is 5/8" thick, find some 5/8" fire rated plasterboard like they use in the garage or use 5/8" plywood.
The other option is 1/2" plasterboard and fill it in with hardcoat or plaster patch.


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## 3DDesign (Oct 25, 2014)

Edit: I like Hacks answer. If they're installing a tile backsplash, what's the difference.
You may be able to add a few 2x4's and move the existing box over.


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## daveEM (Nov 18, 2012)

3DDesign said:


> Let the box fall inside the wall.


:vs_no_no_no: If you do this later you will want to fish something up or down and the box will be in your way.


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## B-Nabs (Jun 4, 2014)

+1 for cutting stud to stud and replacing with a new sheet of board when done. You don't even need to use an old work box, it could be a nail - on. If the wall is getting tiled it's not worth being surgical about it, cut a nice big hole that's easy to work with. A big square hole is easy to repair anyway. 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I know an electrician who has simply run a cable over from the existing box to the new box, then made up the splices in the existing box perfectly, then put a blank cover plate over it and smeared some spackle on top. :whistling2:


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

HackWork said:


> I know an electrician who has simply run a cable over from the existing box to the new box, then made up the splices in the existing box perfectly, then put a blank cover plate over it and smeared some spackle on top. :whistling2:


Yeah I've seen that type of hack work done too!


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

HackWork said:


> I know an electrician who has simply run a cable over from the existing box to the new box, then made up the splices in the existing box perfectly, then put a blank cover plate over it and smeared some spackle on top. :whistling2:


By any chance were these splices made with lever nuts?


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

JoeSparky said:


> By any chance were these splices made with lever nuts?


Nope!

No matter how much I love lever nuts, I would never use them for this purpose. 

I would strip the wire with a larger stripper size to ensure that the the copper was not nicked. I would gently twist the conductors together with my fingers to make sure they made excellent contact but weren’t stressed. I would give 1/2 a twist with my pliers, then cut the ends of the wires flush. Then I would install a wire nut making sure it’s tight but not over tightened. Then I would fold the wires into the box making sure that equal pressure was put on them so that there’s no force pulling one away from the other.

I mean, that’s what my friend would do, the one who would do such hack work like that. :devil3:


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## eddy current (Feb 28, 2009)

Just cut a big hole, done. Would take longer to make this thread then it would to just cut the wall stud to stud and install a new box.


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## JoeSparky (Mar 25, 2010)

HackWork said:


> I mean, that’s what my friend would do, the one who would do such hack work like that. :devil3:


:vs_laugh::whistling2::wink:


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