# direct burial splice box



## pete87 (Oct 22, 2012)

UG Cable Splice Kits . 




Pete


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

There are many splice kits for uf that are listed for UG .

Here is one










Here is another that uses a resin fill to complete the install.


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## Power21 (Jan 26, 2010)

thanks guys i appreciate the responses. Ive used plenty of splice kits but i want to try another method instead of using another DB splice kit. Id like to use a splice box and try to get these splices out of the ground and into a rated direct burial box with an opening at grade. The GFCi breakers are finding faults in the existing splice kits and although I'm assuming he did not install them correctly, id like to avoid them all together. thanks though guys honestly this site has saved my a$$ several times.


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## fargowires (Aug 26, 2010)

So use the splice kit in the landscape box you got. Win/win!


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## Power21 (Jan 26, 2010)

https://images.plattstatic.com/ProductImages/medium/Oldcastle-Precast-CSN910104BE-3588.jpg

this is the enclosure i have. I've been unable to find that its listed for 600v rated UF splices. I had planned on using either clear taps or i guess i could use splice kits again inside the enclosure. 

I was just trying to get an idea of any boxes anyone likes and/or has used to splice UF below grade in lieu of DB splice kits


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

That is what I would use but I have never noticed boxes being rated for the voltage. I am sure that 600v would be the minimum that it would be rated


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

I would caution the use of anything_ not_ DB rated below grade 21. 

~CS~


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## Power21 (Jan 26, 2010)

So MR. Alwon excuse my ignorance but I have no experience with a direct burial splice box... So as long as the open bottom of the enclosure is at or below the required depth requirement (12" in this case... 20A or less and GFCI protected) it is then ok then to bring the UF cables up through the bottom of this Carson box and splice them with wet location rated wire nuts or do they still need DB splice kits while inside the box?


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

B4T would approve of this thread. RIP B4T.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

21,
Unless drainage gravel is installed to where it's obvious the UG chamber will never be full of water or ice , it's usually seen as a DB deal

~CS~


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## Power21 (Jan 26, 2010)

Yes he would. I read all 18 pages of his threat from 2011 about DB wire nuts w UF before i even posted this question. Good and smart guy. Sorry to hear he's gone


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## Power21 (Jan 26, 2010)

So it sounds like even in a rated splice box, the uf cables will still require a DB splice kit to splice the cables together. All of this was in an attempt to avoid the splice kits as they are causing a bleed to ground and tripping the GFCi breaker. Im worried that even if i install new splice kits myself and ensure their installation correctness that i will still over time get a negative result from the GFCI from moisture. I guess as long as the splices are inside a splice box they will at least be out of ground. Thanks all. UF is terrible


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

I'm a tad further north than you 21, but i can honestly say choppin' ice for the splice ain't so nice....:no:~CS~:whistling2:


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

How are you sure the existing splices are the problem and you don't have other cable faults developing?

Sometimes, it's cheaper in the long run to just install new. Maybe you can upsell the customer to let you install conduit so that if any problems occur in the future you can just pull in new conductors. :thumbsup:


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## Maximumbob (May 24, 2013)

RAB Rocket Post

http://www.rabweb.com/product_line_detail.php?prodline=POST


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

True , i'm big on pvc runs because there's just no fixing DB short of dynamite in the winter....

~CS~


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

The only way you will know is with a megger. Disconnect any lighting and the GFCI, and take a reading. Remove the splices and take readings of the segments. That way you know whether its the splices or other hidden damage. Make the repairs and take another reading to confirm you have cleaned up the problem. Yes underground splices can deteriorate over time. Done right, they last a long time. If you are going to do a whole new run, do it in conduit. I'd go back to the heat shrink or other DB rated splice and be done, just not without checking before and after with the megger.


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## hardworkingstiff (Jan 22, 2007)

nrp3 said:


> The only way you will know is with a megger. Disconnect any lighting and the GFCI, and take a reading. Remove the splices and take readings of the segments. That way you know whether its the splices or other hidden damage. Make the repairs and take another reading to confirm you have cleaned up the problem. Yes underground splices can deteriorate over time. Done right, they last a long time. If you are going to do a whole new run, do it in conduit. I'd go back to the heat shrink or other DB rated splice and be done, just not without checking before and after with the megger.


And by the time you do all of that, you might be able to install a new conduit. You could even get the customer to dig the ditch.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

My understanding is that you put some drainage material under the box and just use outdoor listed wirenuts- I think Lowes has them. No splice kit is required


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

If its a short distance quite possibly, but as long as you have all the points you need exposed, I think I'll be done quicker. You can quickly tell with the megger if its acceptable, no long term analysis. The needle will dance around a bunch with a low reading. Good it will be a steady climb to a higher value. Make a fair amount of money each year repairing UF and DB secondaries. Megger, fault locator, locator, and circuit tracer. Helps if you have clients with miles of this stuff to fix.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Here are a bunch of code sections that may help



> 300.5(E) Splices and Taps. Direct-buried conductors or cables
> shall be permitted to be spliced or tapped without the use of
> splice boxes. The splices or taps shall be made in accordance
> with 110.14(B).





> 110.14(B) (B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with
> splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding,
> or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered
> splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically
> ...





> 300.15(L) Manholes and Handhole Enclosures. A box or conduit
> body shall not be required for conductors in manholes
> or handhole enclosures, except where connecting to electrical
> equipment. The installation shall comply with the provisions
> ...





> 314.30 Handhole Enclosures. Handhole enclosures shall
> be designed and installed to withstand all loads likely to be
> imposed on them. They shall be identified for use in underground
> systems.
> ...


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## Power21 (Jan 26, 2010)

Thanks for the help guys. Im headed out there on tuesday. I did do a continuity test on all of the branch circuitry ahead of the UF home runs and it all rang out clear w no faults. I may just megger them like suggested. These circuits worked for a few weeks and are now tripping the GFCI breakers so i just quickly was drawn to the splices and thought another method such as the splice box would be worth a shot. The back yard is full of pavers and a patio so digging up and retrenching with PVC would be a hard sell. Thanks again guys have a good weekend


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I would install the gfci and leave the trench open for a few days and see if the issue is gone


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

Hubble makes "Quazite" boxes. They are made out of a composite concrete and fiberglass. They are the only ones I know of that are UL listed. They also make them roadway rated. They cost a lot more than an irrigation control box type. 

The other one we use, for boxes in the landscape, is the plastic "Pencell" open bottom box. I think they are much cheaper. I don't think they are UL listed, and had inspection problems in the past. 

I normally throw a spackle bucket or two of blue stone under the box for drainage. If there is a high water table, it is not going to matter. At least the conductors won't be I the mud if you ever have to work on them again. 

I have dug up and repaired my share of burned up direct buried splices. I would like to think I have seen every variety manufactured fail, even some homemade ones. In my opinion the open bottom box with standard wirenuts pointing up will last the longest. Use a little anti-oxidant, and don't tape the splice. The tape only holds the moisture in. They also make a street light kit. They are like a short groundbar with a rubber top that is open on the bottom. They work good, although more money.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Brand of those street light kits?


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## cabletie (Feb 12, 2011)

I can't find them now. They are similar in concept to these without the gel. 

http://www.te.com/us/en/industries/energy/PDF/C_GelCap_SL.pdf

The ones we use sometimes for parking lot lights never have gel. They just have a black boot that slides down over the short ground bar type splice. The skirt that is left after putting on the boot is about an inch. More than enough to make an air pocket when pointed up, and the box fills with water. This way the splice stays dry. There is some condensation from the cold ground and the sunlight on the lid. I have found this type of splice outlasts butt spliced and heat shrink, or resin splices. 

If I can't find them I will ask the shop material guy on Monday.


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## chicken steve (Mar 22, 2011)

Not too shabby a product Cable dude....~CS~


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## Bootss (Dec 30, 2011)

Dennis Alwon said:


> My understanding is that you put some drainage material under the box and just use outdoor listed wirenuts- I think Lowes has them. No splice kit is required


How deep do you put the p-gravel / 3/4" graveI ? Think I remember blueprints in the past stating 18 inches below the box.Also how wide an area under the cement box dia.?


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## Sparky J (May 17, 2011)

The Carson box that the original poster put up check out oldcastleprecast.com they have some of the spec.s there. When I do them I usually put in a bag of pea gravel after I dig out the hole a little bigger than the box, lay some of the pea gravel, flush the box then I pour some more gravel inside, pop the cover on an backfill. Ofcorse these are not for vehicular traffic.
They have 6" extensions for the box if you need deeper, but the irrigation guys on one of my jobs will take (2) boxes and flip the first one upside down without the cover an place the other one on top.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Lep said:


> How deep do you put the p-gravel / 3/4" graveI ? Think I remember blueprints in the past stating 18 inches below the box.Also how wide an area under the cement box dia.?


I only did one and the soil was pretty good so I just put a few inches of gravel


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## Power21 (Jan 26, 2010)

Thank you everybody, beers around


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