# Relay for Heaters



## cguillas (Jun 25, 2009)

Depends on your relay. There's usually a diagram on the side of it... Although if you're going electric, cutting down on the number of thermostats eliminates a major advantage which is zonal control.


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## DiegoXJ (Jul 29, 2010)

depending on wattage, you can only have so many heaters on a thermostat (specially digital programmable ones). So you can use a contactor to handle the load while controlling the switching from the single thermostat. I'm sure there are several different other ways you can do this.


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

most heaters( gas fired) supply their own control voltage do not tie them together without relays you can back feed a gas valve on a disconnected heater and have problems


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## Speedy Petey (Jan 10, 2007)

You can use these and have one lo-volt t-stat control as many as you want.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WHITERODGERS-Electric-Heat-Relay-2E346?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-HVACR-_-HVACR%20and%20Appliance%20Controls-_-2E346&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=2E346


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

ampman said:


> most heaters( gas fired) supply their own control voltage do not tie them together without relays you can back feed a gas valve on a disconnected heater and have problems


And this applies to the OP's situation....how? :no:



Tiger said:


> I got a call from a client requesting _*240V heaters*_ and said another electrician said you could use fewer thermostats with a relay. I'm on a bit of back medicine at the moment and drawing a blank. Anyone care to draw a wiring diagram or explain?


{rant on}

WTF is going on lately with all the people who don't READ the damn thread before opening their mouths? 

It's not rocket science people.....

_*READ THE THREAD, ALL OF IT, BEFORE YOU POST!!!!! :thumbup:
*_
{rant off} 

Now, as for the OP's question, DiegoXJ and cguillas are spot on. 

If the total connected load of the heaters in a given area exceeds the rating of the thermostat, you can use the thermostat to control a properly rated contactor, which controls the heaters. 

You wire the coil of the contactor to the thermostat as if it were a heater, then the contacts of the contactor control each heater. 

Simple really.

Speedy's link is a good one, a good solution to this situation.


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

for those kind of job i do a control panel with ssr and propers heatsinks, fuses,.. and use a furnace t-stat. a contactor can be very annoying with is big noise
but this is not cheaper than using multiple t-stat


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## danickstr (Mar 21, 2010)

the load is only half on a 240 Tstat so I guess you could wire more into them, since the other side carries the other half of the amperage.

People these are the 20 dollar t stats that control the little rat wheel blowers in the wall.


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## cguillas (Jun 25, 2009)

danickstr said:


> the load is only half on a 240 Tstat so I guess you could wire more into them, since the other side carries the other half of the amperage.
> 
> People these are the 20 dollar t stats that control the little rat wheel blowers in the wall.


What? That's wrong. When you have a 240V thermostat that says it's rated for a 15A baseboard heater, you don't put a 30A on. You'll burn it up.


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## dogleg (Dec 22, 2008)

I've used relays to control several baseboard heaters,but in my case the customer could hear a humming noise coming from his crawl space below.Had to go and replace the electromagnetic coil style with a "tdr" style relay which looks more like a small round disk but does not vibrate.


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## danickstr (Mar 21, 2010)

cguillas I just mean that the t-stats that break one side of the 240 current are rated for more load since the amperage is only half per wire as opposed to 120. I would not advocate exceeding the rated current. But I am pretty sure the 240 heaters are able to have more total amps on a single t-stat, without exdeeding the rated loads.


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

Tiger said:


> I got a call from a client requesting 240V heaters and said another electrician said you could use fewer thermostats with a relay. I'm on a bit of back medicine at the moment and drawing a blank. Anyone care to draw a wiring diagram or explain?


i can and would be happy to give you the set up- however i would like to know what the model of heater you are using is and how many there are............ if its milivolt controls i would not recomend this set , are the units going in a warehouse or other OPEN space where placement of the tsat would not cause load heating problems? can you give me a few more specifics on the set up?



i would be cautious about having heaters in more than one area of a building run off the same tstat it will cause performance problems.

J.HALL


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

Speedy Petey said:


> You can use these and have one lo-volt t-stat control as many as you want.
> 
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WHITERODGERS-Electric-Heat-Relay-2E346?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-HVACR-_-HVACR%20and%20Appliance%20Controls-_-2E346&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=2E346


thats one option but i wouldnt buy it from "grungy" i prefer ccd ickson, or johnstone supply they have more reasonable prices around $45. my price, here in greenville sc.:thumbsup:


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

danickstr said:


> cguillas I just mean that the t-stats that break one side of the 240 current are rated for more load since the amperage is only half per wire as opposed to 120. I would not advocate exceeding the rated current. But I am pretty sure the 240 heaters are able to have more total amps on a single t-stat, without exdeeding the rated loads.


t-stat are rated for 240V loads and max wattage listed on them is calculated at 240V if you use 120v heater then you must divide by 2 the rated wattage


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## crosport (Apr 4, 2010)

Use the electronic heating relay made by AUBE.Has no time delay and has little red L.E.D.to indicate it's on.Much easier to cycle thru on and off when testing.Has built in 24volt transformer like the white rodgers and honeywell ones.


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## Tiger (Jan 3, 2008)

jhall.sparky said:


> i can and would be happy to give you the set up- however i would like to know what the model of heater you are using is and how many there are............ if its milivolt controls i would not recomend this set , are the units going in a warehouse or other OPEN space where placement of the tsat would not cause load heating problems? can you give me a few more specifics on the set up?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks to everyone for your assistance. In regard to this post, it is residential with (I believe) two baseboard heaters in the same room. The added rating of the heaters is greater than the rating of the 240V direct-wire thermostat.


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

I have controlled electric baseboard like that using a 24 volt xformer and 24 volt coil contactors . I did that on a few jobs controlling zones such as L/R, D/R, Kit. 2nd floor west side , etc. I find it easier on existing work going low voltage on the tstats since I can pipe/snake the heaters from the outside and snake 18/5>18/4>18/3>18/2 between tstats on the interior walls.


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## dmxtothemax (Jun 15, 2010)

Whilst it is true using relays you can operate more heaters
off a therostat.
Unless the cost of thermostats was really high,
Then the extra compextity of the extra wiring
and the relays could well negate the benefits.
Or cost savings.


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

dont use mechanical relay on residential, it is very fun to listen click click every 5 minutes


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

oliquir said:


> for those kind of job i do a control panel with ssr and propers heatsinks, fuses,.. and use a furnace t-stat. a contactor can be very annoying with is big noise
> but this is not cheaper than using multiple t-stat


Why?? 

The answer was already given. This is a SIMPLE job and solution. There is a product made specifically for this application. I'll never understand the desire of some guys to make things way harder than they need to be.


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

mxslick said:


> And this applies to the OP's situation....how? :no:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 are you stupid or just hit your head while riding your bicycle


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

ampman said:


> are you stupid or just hit your head while riding your bicycle


Are YOU stupid or just trolling..WTF does a GAS heater have to do with the OP's situation when it was crystal clear to EVERYONE BUT YOU that he's talking about ELECTRIC heaters? 

GFY.


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Heres a place that has them all on one page, scroll down a bit:

http://www.heatersplus.com/low.htm


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

mxslick said:


> Are YOU stupid or just trolling..WTF does a GAS heater have to do with the OP's situation when it was crystal clear to EVERYONE BUT YOU that he's talking about ELECTRIC heaters?
> 
> GFY.


 hey dip **** electric heaters can still have low voltage control the last time i looked you are not a mod on this site SO SHUT THE **** UP


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

ampman said:


> hey dip **** electric heaters can still have low voltage control the last time i looked you are not a mod on this site SO SHUT THE **** UP


 
lets not turn this post into a pissing contest............ im liking it thus far....


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

ampman said:


> hey dip **** electric heaters can still have low voltage control the last time i looked you are not a mod on this site SO SHUT THE **** UP


Still has nothing to do with the question


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## dmxtothemax (Jun 15, 2010)

Hey guys !
Please dont let this turn into an **** fight !
Be cool, so many enjoy this forum.


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

dmxtothemax said:


> Hey guys !
> Please dont let this turn into an **** fight !
> Be cool, so many enjoy this forum.





jhall.sparky said:


> lets not turn this post into a pissing contest............ im liking it thus far....


I agree, and I wasn't pissed off until he posted this:



ampman said:


> are you stupid or just hit your head while riding your bicycle


..which was uncalled for. As was his follow-up. 

However, I do admit that perhaps a better response to his first post would have been along the lines of something like this:



What I should have said said:


> You are right about the gas valve issue, but we aren't talking about gas heaters, they are electric.


But still:



electricmanscott said:


> Still has nothing to do with the question



Finally, if you think this through, even with LV controls on electric heaters, as long as all the control transformers are on the same leg/phase of the service you CAN parallel them with no problems. (Think of std. HV transformers that are paralleled and it works the same way.) 

Try it on the bench and you'll see it can work. And if you are on opposite legs of a single-phase 120/240 service you can swap the secondary (or primary) windings of one or more transformers so they are all phased the same. (If they are opposite phased they will buck and reduce/zero out the secondary voltages.) If you are on opposite legs of any 3-phase service it won't work as the 120 degree phase angles won't line up.


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

mxslick said:


> I agree, and I wasn't pissed off until he posted this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 so i went back to the first post and the op did not say anything about gas or electric that being said you can back feed gas heater valves with the low voltage supply from another heater without relays if they are tied into the same t-stat and i was only trying to help, but you popping up with your stupid **** was wrong and you have no place on a fourm if you can't try to get along and not be an asshole


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

ampman said:


> so i went back to the first post and the op did not say anything about gas or electric that being said you can back feed gas heater valves with the low voltage supply from another heater without relays if they are tied into the same t-stat and i was only trying to help, but you popping up with your stupid **** was wrong and you have no place on a fourm if you can't try to get along and not be an asshole


Whatever dude, so you keep proving you can't handle criticism, even after I conceded you did have a valid point, even though it CLEARLY did not apply in this case. 

I also conceded that my post could have been better phrased, and even though my rant wasn't specifically directed at you, (if you had read several other threads the past few days you'd realize there were a LOT of people not reading before posting, which is what I was ranting about) you decided to take it that way and come back with the personal insults. 

The only one being an asshole now is you. 

If you don't like what I have to say, then add me to your ignore list and I won't lose any sleep over it.


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## ampman (Apr 2, 2009)

mxslick said:


> Whatever dude, so you keep proving you can't handle criticism, even after I conceded you did have a valid point, even though it CLEARLY did not apply in this case.
> 
> I also conceded that my post could have been better phrased, and even though my rant wasn't specifically directed at you, (if you had read several other threads the past few days you'd realize there were a LOT of people not reading before posting, which is what I was ranting about) you decided to take it that way and come back with the personal insults.
> 
> The only one being an asshole now is you.


 ok i'am sorry this is my hand shake on the internet please accept


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

ampman said:


> ok i'am sorry this is my hand shake on the internet please accept


I am sorry as well, let's move on from here. :thumbup:

I accept your handshake and send you a beer. :drink:


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

:laughing:

This is f'ing hilarious


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

Next we're gonna gather around and sing Kumbaya....:laughing::laughing:

Glad we could provide some humor to the thread...:thumbsup:


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## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

oliquir said:


> for those kind of job i do a control panel with ssr and propers heatsinks, fuses,.. and use a furnace t-stat. a contactor can be very annoying with is big noise
> but this is not cheaper than using multiple t-stat





electricmanscott said:


> Why??
> 
> The answer was already given. This is a SIMPLE job and solution. There is a product made specifically for this application. I'll never understand the desire of some guys to make things way harder than they need to be.


Well for context, oliquir is from Quebec, a place where electricity is cheap thanks to lots of hydroelectric dams. Because of this 68% of houses there are heated electrically(says wikipedia) he is probably used to people expecting better control than a lame baseboard thermostat can provide, line or low voltage.


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## cguillas (Jun 25, 2009)

Vintage Sounds said:


> Well for context, oliquir is from Quebec, a place where electricity is cheap thanks to lots of hydroelectric dams. Because of this 68% of houses there are heated electrically(says wikipedia) he is probably used to people expecting better control than a lame baseboard thermostat can provide, line or low voltage.


Nope, I used to live in Quebec too and I've never seen it done that way. Because Electric heat is so common, line level thermostats and heating relays are both cheap and plentiful. Government even has a program to give away the thermostats if you hire an electrician to put them in.


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

Vintage Sounds said:


> Well for context, oliquir is from Quebec, a place where electricity is cheap thanks to lots of hydroelectric dams. Because of this 68% of houses there are heated electrically(says wikipedia) he is probably used to people expecting better control than a lame baseboard thermostat can provide, line or low voltage.


Better control??? :laughing:


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

electricmanscott said:


> Better control??? :laughing:


 
Definitely better temperature control. Six inches off the floor, next to the heater, is no place for a thermostat. At least not one intended to keep humans comfortable. The quality of the line-voltage baseboard-mount t-stats isn't exactly at the fractional degree level...:laughing: And finally, using a low-voltage t-stat gives the option of dozens of much more sophisticated models than what's available for line-voltage.


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

CraigV said:


> Definitely better temperature control. Six inches off the floor, next to the heater, is no place for a thermostat. At least not one intended to keep humans comfortable. The quality of the line-voltage baseboard-mount t-stats isn't exactly at the fractional degree level...:laughing: And finally, using a low-voltage t-stat gives the option of dozens of much more sophisticated models than what's available for line-voltage.


 
look at this........http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/line-voltage.html


<LI class=spec>Features accuracy within 1 degree: its in the specs


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## oliquir (Jan 13, 2011)

Vintage Sounds said:


> Well for context, oliquir is from Quebec, a place where electricity is cheap thanks to lots of hydroelectric dams. Because of this 68% of houses there are heated electrically(says wikipedia) he is probably used to people expecting better control than a lame baseboard thermostat can provide, line or low voltage.


i gave that answer because i didn't know they sold pre-manfactured relay for larger loads that electronic thermostat can handle. Ive done that often in industrial environment 
even if i live in quebec with cheap electricity i heat my house with wood stove :whistling2:


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

jhall.sparky said:


> look at this........http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/line-voltage.html


 
Looked. Yep, nothing for baseboard mount.


Plus, there's probably a 3:1 ratio of low-voltage to line-level thermostat models on the market for wall mount.


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## electricmanscott (Feb 11, 2010)

CraigV said:


> Definitely better temperature control. Six inches off the floor, next to the heater, is no place for a thermostat. At least not one intended to keep humans comfortable. The quality of the line-voltage baseboard-mount t-stats isn't exactly at the fractional degree level...:laughing: And finally, using a low-voltage t-stat gives the option of dozens of much more sophisticated models than what's available for line-voltage.


Who would use a baseboard mount tstat in the ops setup in the first place and why are you fixated on that? Nobody even mentioned it.


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

CraigV said:


> Looked. Yep, nothing for baseboard mount.
> 
> 
> Plus, there's probably a 3:1 ratio of low-voltage to line-level thermostat models on the market for wall mount.


 
hard head man hard head......................................

who said they weren't?


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

electricmanscott said:


> Who would use a baseboard mount tstat in the ops setup in the first place and why are you fixated on that? Nobody even mentioned it.


The post you quoted mentioned it:

_he is probably used to people expecting better control than a lame *baseboard thermostat* can provide, line or low voltage_.

You asked, "Better Control"? and I foolishly assumed this was addressing the comment you quoted. Obviously you meant something else and we're supposed to guess what that might be. I apologize.


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## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

electricmanscott said:


> Better control??? :laughing:


Well I don't know, it was just a theory. I inferred that because I haven't found line voltage [wall mount] thermostats to be that accurate, but a typical electronic 24v furnace T-stat usually gets pretty close to the set temperature.


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

Vintage Sounds said:


> Well I don't know, it was just a theory. I inferred that because I haven't found line voltage [wall mount] thermostats to be that accurate, but a typical electronic 24v furnace T-stat usually gets pretty close to the set temperature.


Indeed, the +-1 degree claims are BS in actual use IME. I've got electric baseboard heat in a well-insulated house, and have used a bunch of different line voltage wall mount thermostats (including several on jhall.sparky's posted link). None have ever maintained set temperature within less than 5 degrees variation. 

The best so far is the Honeywell Triac digital, but its problem seems to be that it produces a lot of heat, and this obviously affects the temperature its reading, as it's consistently colder than set temp by 5-8 degrees. It also makes the baseboards noisey, as they are constantly heating and cooling partially. It helps to have the electric/hydronic baseboards, which expand and contract a little slower.


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

CraigV said:


> Indeed, the +-1 degree claims are BS in actual use IME. I've got electric baseboard heat in a well-insulated house, and have used a bunch of different line voltage wall mount thermostats (including several on jhall.sparky's posted link). None have ever maintained set temperature within less than 5 degrees variation.
> 
> The best so far is the Honeywell Triac digital, but its problem seems to be that it produces a lot of heat, and this obviously affects the temperature its reading, as it's consistently colder than set temp by 5-8 degrees. It also makes the baseboards noisey, as they are constantly heating and cooling partially. It helps to have the electric/hydronic baseboards, which expand and contract a little slower.


 
also the downfall to baseboard heaters/radiators is they work of an old theroy called convection heating.... if they had blowers like forced air units it WOULD maintain the set temp. ............... the whole concept behind a forced air system is COMFORT CONTROL.. not just sustainability like base boards.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Jlarson said:


> :laughing:
> 
> This is f'ing hilarious


I am just catching up and yeah it is. :laughing:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

jhall.sparky said:


> also the downfall to baseboard heaters/radiators is they work of an old theroy called convection heating.... if they had blowers like forced air units it WOULD maintain the set temp. ............... the whole concept behind a forced air system is COMFORT CONTROL.. not just sustainability like base boards.


It does not take a fan to make a room comfortable.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

BBQ said:


> I am just catching up and yeah it is. :laughing:


We need to start making a list of all the ridiculous things that have cause multi-page thread arguments. I think if we saw all the things we argue about in list form, we'd all be ashamed of ourselves. :laughing:


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

BBQ said:


> It does not take a fan to make a room comfortable.


 
its way more efficient , and why do we have forced air units if they arent any better..................................

you bbq dont have a clue so laugh on it shows your ignorance.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

jhall.sparky said:


> you bbq dont have a clue so laugh on it shows your ignorance.


I couldn't agree with you more. :thumbup:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

jhall.sparky said:


> its way more efficient , and why do we have forced air units if they arent any better..................................


Well forced air units are faster, but they are less efficient. They are also noisy and prone to breaking down.

A baseboard heater is 100% efficient, it converts every bit of the electricity it uses into heat.





> you bbq dont have a clue so laugh on it shows your ignorance.


Yeah, that is me. I have no clue. :laughing:

Radiant floor heat is one of the most comfortable heating systems you can have yet there is no fan and you told me it takes fan to make the room comfortable. 

How is that possible? 

Oh wait, I know how ........... you have no clue.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

Peter D said:


> I couldn't agree with you more. :thumbup:


OK dateless.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

BBQ said:


> OK dateless.


Good comeback. :thumbup:


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

BBQ said:


> Well forced air units are faster, but they are less efficient. They are also noisy and prone to breaking down.
> 
> A baseboard heater is 100% efficient, it converts every bit of the electricity it uses into heat.
> 
> ...


 
and as far as repairs go ............. whens the last time YOU worked on a home comfort system of any kind ?


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

jhall.sparky said:


> also the downfall to baseboard heaters/radiators is they work of an old theroy called convection heating.... if they had blowers like forced air units it WOULD maintain the set temp. ............... the whole concept behind a forced air system is COMFORT CONTROL.. not just sustainability like base boards.


 
But Hydronic baseboards are also convection, and there's no problem maintaining set temperatures with them using low-voltage t-stats. Same with in-floor hydronic and electric systems.

From what I see, the problems are that baseboard-mounted stats are just in the wrong place, wall mounted mechanical are simply inaccurate, and TRIAC line-voltage wall mount generate their own heat, which skews the settings. It should be noted that they are quite capable of maintaining temperature with very small variations...it just isn't the set temperature!


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

BBQ said:


> I am just catching up and yeah it is. :laughing:


You're always late to the fray Bob....we missed you. :laughing::laughing:



Peter D said:


> We need to start making a list of all the ridiculous things that have cause multi-page thread arguments. I think if we saw all the things we argue about in list form, we'd all be ashamed of ourselves. :laughing:


Oh, man, what a list that would make!! I have seen (and triggered) some real wowsers. :thumbup::laughing:


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

jhall.sparky said:


> and as far as repairs go ............. whens the last time YOU worked on a home comfort system of any kind ?


I wish you could learn to work the forum so I could quote you. :jester:

But the discussion was not about which heating method costs less or more.

It had been about relays for electrical heat, then you suggested fan forced was better at keeping the room comfortable.

I disagreed with ya, I mentioned electric baseboard heat is 100% efficient and has less break downs than fan forced. Those are both facts, a heat pump would likely cost less to run but it not even close to 100% efficient. :thumbsup: And to try to suggest that a fan forced unit will not require more servicing than a simple baseboard is kind of nuts. :laughing:



Peter D said:


> We need to start making a list of all the ridiculous things that have cause multi-page thread arguments. I think if we saw all the things we argue about in list form, we'd all be ashamed of ourselves.


It is just what we do to kill time. :laughing:

Would it be better to hang at a bar and yell things at the TV on the wall, or maybe go to the mall and make fun of anyone that does not dress or look like us? :laughing:


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

BBQ said:


> I wish you could learn to work the forum so I could quote you. :jester:
> 
> But the discussion was not about which heating method costs less or more.
> 
> ...



I tell you what bbq I'm so impressed by your knowledge I've just decided ill shut the doors and go back to school so I can be like you one day!

Man is ignorance bliss.


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

Oops, see next reply by me...


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## guest (Feb 21, 2009)

jhall.sparky said:


> and as far as repairs go ............. whens the last time YOU worked on a home comfort system of any kind ?





BBQ said:


> I wish you could learn to work the forum so I could quote you. :jester:
> 
> But the discussion was not about which heating method costs less or more.
> 
> ...





jhall.sparky said:


> I tell you what bbq I'm so impressed by your knowledge I've just decided ill shut the doors and go back to school so I can be like you one day!
> 
> Man is ignorance bliss.



Ding ding ding....Round two underway!!


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## nrp3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Anyone try the Aube line of thermostats? They may be the same as Honeywell, not sure. I have a bunch of baseboard heat only properties that I work on. Older folks whose circulation isn't so good and I mean bodily, sometimes complain of the temperature swings with some of the mechanical thermostats, 75 degree limited ones don't generate enough heat, etc. I usually only put a few screws in to hold the heaters in place and don't tighten them that tight so they can expand. I have seen the Fahrenheat ones from Home Depot and Lowes hum badly in the 8ft lengths. I have also seen the electronic thermostats generate a good deal of heat, the dust streaks going up the wall over them in fact.


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## cguillas (Jun 25, 2009)

I like the Aubé ones a lot. I have them in my home. I think honeywell likes them too; I've cracked them open and the newer ones have "Aubé" right on the PCB. Heh.


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## BBQ (Nov 16, 2010)

jhall.sparky said:


> I tell you what bbq I'm so impressed by your knowledge I've just decided ill shut the doors and go back to school so I can be like you one day!


Well big dog feel free to point out any false information I have posted.:thumbsup:


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

BBQ said:


> Well big dog feel free to point out any false information I have posted.:thumbsup:


 
no need im not worthy of your knowldege................ the light ....... it hurts.......................... j/k man it doesnt matter and that wasnt cool of me to attack you like that so............ SORRY! (fwiw),

J.HALL


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

jhall, not to interrupt the love-fest w/BBQ or anything, but I did respond back at post #57 regarding convection heating.

...just in case you might still be interested in the discussion.


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

CraigV said:


> But Hydronic baseboards are also convection, and there's no problem maintaining set temperatures with them using low-voltage t-stats. Same with in-floor hydronic and electric systems.
> 
> From what I see, the problems are that baseboard-mounted stats are just in the wrong place, wall mounted mechanical are simply inaccurate, and TRIAC line-voltage wall mount generate their own heat, which skews the settings. It should be noted that they are quite capable of maintaining temperature with very small variations...it just isn't the set temperature!


 
except that there is a correction factor on the honeywell PRO series t-sts, 

up to 5 degrees.............. but you are calling it EVEN or COMFORTABLE heat why?


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

jhall.sparky said:


> except that there is a correction factor on the honeywell PRO series t-sts,
> 
> up to 5 degrees.............. but you are calling it EVEN or COMFORTABLE heat why?


Are you replying to me? I honestly have no idea what you're writing here. I didn't mention 5 degrees, even, comfortable. 

Color me confused.


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## jhall.sparky (Jun 14, 2011)

CraigV said:


> Are you replying to me? I honestly have no idea what you're writing here. I didn't mention 5 degrees, even, comfortable.
> 
> Color me confused.


 
ok............you said it ..........................  ............................... :whistling2:


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## CraigV (May 12, 2011)

jhall.sparky said:


> ok............you said it ..........................  ............................... :whistling2:


 
Thanks for editing your post so it makes sense. In my experience with the TRIAC's, they'll keep a given area in a room within a couple of degrees. The problem, as I've stated, is that this isn't the set temperature. In other words, I set the tstat to 70. Hours later, I check the middle of the room: 65. I check the tstat: 68. But it's not calling for heat. When the tstat itself cools, then it calls for heat...it then heats up as the TRIAC works, and shuts off the heat prematurely. So the temp will stay a few degrees under the set temp, give or take a degree, all day long. I can of course compensate by setting temp higher, but that's not the point of $50+ thermostats especially when a small house will need 5 or 6.

This is still better than what I've had with mechanical baseboard-mounted or wall thermostats, which have varied in actual room temp by as much as 10 degrees and never better than 5 degrees.


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