# Light bulb burning out often



## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

I have a customer who has a light in the ceiling of her front porch. She says the bulb burns out every 2 weeks or so. The fixture was old so I recommended we first change it. I did and it burnt out again. It has another light on the same switch that does not burn out. I put in a 130V bulb. It lasted 3 weeks. Any thoughts on what I should look for?


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## erics37 (May 7, 2009)

Excessive door slamming.

Oh, and screwing the bulb in too tight.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

LED lamp.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Is this a MWBC with a neutral going bad?


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

This fixture is 20 feet up so I don't think them slamming the door is it. I want to know why it is happening. LED bulb great if it fixes it but why is just this one light doing it?


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## dthurmond (Feb 7, 2011)

I had a problem close to what your describing in my kitchen. Checked all connections and voltages and everything was ok. Installed some flourescent bulbs and I have not had anymore problems. Maybe changed two bulbs in the past five years.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

Put in a rough service lamp. I'd bet you a nickel that one lasts.


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

maybe just closing the door is doing it cause there's a loose wire in the switch, or the switch is worn out ? maybe the xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ? If you replaced the fixture there's gotta be a loose connection somewhere or voltage spikes on that ckt somehow.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I'd like someone to show me how a loose connection on a resistive load can cause a voltage to spike above nominal. :laughing: If you can do that, you're on your way to being a bajillionaire.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

MDShunk said:


> Put in a rough service lamp. I'd bet you a nickel that one lasts.



The 2nd bulb I installed was a 130V rough service bulb.:blink:


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## Big John (May 23, 2010)

Bulldog1 said:


> The 2nd bulb I installed was a 130V rough service bulb.:blink:


 Not to second guess you, but was it actually a rough service 130V lamp, or just a regular 130V lamp? Those are two different animals.

-John


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> I'd like someone to show me how a loose connection on a resistive load can cause a voltage to spike above nominal. :laughing: If you can do that, you're on your way to being a bajillionaire.


any inductive elements (or capacitive for that matter) on the same ckt could easily cause a spike if the connection was arcing. your assumption that the ckt only has resistive loads would be unusual for most houses IMO :laughing:


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

Bulldog1 said:


> This fixture is 20 feet up so I don't think them slamming the door is it. I want to know why it is happening. LED bulb great if it fixes it but why is just this one light doing it?


 Home Depot has a 10 dollar led bulb. You can put that in to see if the problem isnt the bulb getting jarred around.. 

But I would Look into what Dennis recommended. 

I noticed that you tend to get a lot of recessed light movement if the home is newer with TGI construction too..


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## Cletis (Aug 20, 2010)

*connect*

I'd guess you need to scrape off the socket pin with a razor knife real good and pull back and screw a new rough one in and turn 1/4-1/2 past it turning on..no more and see what happens after that. Scrape the bulb too


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

captkirk said:


> Home Depot has a 10 dollar led bulb. You can put that in to see if the problem isnt the bulb getting jarred around..
> 
> But I would Look into what Dennis recommended.
> 
> I noticed that you tend to get a lot of recessed light movement if the home is newer with TGI construction too..


After reading some of the post marcs rough service bulb sounds like a good plan to. least buck for your bang.


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## kbsparky (Sep 20, 2007)

MDShunk said:


> I'd like someone to show me how a loose connection on a resistive load can cause a voltage to spike above nominal. :laughing: If you can do that, you're on your way to being a bajillionaire.


First: A loose connection on a MWBC neutral can and will cause the voltage to spike above normal. You of all people should know this.

2nd: A loose connection within a light socket will cause excessive heating in that socket, literally cooking the base of the light bulb. This in turn causes premature bulb failure.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Big John said:


> Not to second guess you, but was it actually a rough service 130V lamp, or just a regular 130V lamp? Those are two different animals.
> 
> -John



It said rough service.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

kbsparky said:


> First: A loose connection on a MWBC neutral can and will cause the voltage to spike above normal. You of all people should know this.
> 
> 2nd: A loose connection within a light socket will cause excessive heating in that socket, literally cooking the base of the light bulb. This in turn causes premature bulb failure.



Then explain the other light tied to it not blowing. But it is not a MWBC....:laughing:


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

Is there any way water can get into them.? loose neut connection would definatly do it to.


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## CanadianSparky (May 10, 2011)

Cletis said:


> I'd guess you need to scrape off the socket pin with a razor knife real good and pull back and screw a new rough one in and turn 1/4-1/2 past it turning on..no more and see what happens after that. Scrape the bulb too


why should he have to do that with a new socket and bulb.....do you do that everytime you install a new light?


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Ok so the situation is one light of two controlled by same switch burns out. Not a multi wire branch circuit. Connections checked. No water intrusion wiring megged ok. New fixture. Did it with old fixture. First bulb reg bulb. Second was rough service. I have had everything you guys mentioned cause this problem on jobs in the past. I would think the second fixture would have the same problem if it was anything other than crappy bulbs. Any other thoughts?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

If the door banging is not the issue-- sounds like a great guess then I am not sure what else it could be other than a neutral loose on a sabc. The thing I don't get is why both bulbs are not burning out.

You sound like you have done everything possible. Try using a cfl in that fixture and see if you have the same problems.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

The fixture socket could have a higher resistance connection like a bad solder joint or missing strands where it connects. Ohm it out and compare it to the other fixture to see if something is amiss that way.


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## den (Mar 28, 2009)

Cletis said:


> I'd guess you need to scrape off the socket pin with a razor knife real good and pull back and screw a new rough one in and turn 1/4-1/2 past it turning on..no more and see what happens after that. Scrape the bulb too


that was what i was going to say. I have had a lot of new bulbs that seem to be shorter than old bulbs and the tab in the bottom of the socket is pushed down so it is not making good connection and it gets hot or quits. Pull the tab back up if it stuck down. Are the bulbs actually blowed or just quitting


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

macmikeman said:


> The fixture socket could have a higher resistance connection like a bad solder joint or missing strands where it connects. Ohm it out and compare it to the other fixture to see if something is amiss that way.


 But he stated he replaced the fixture.



> The fixture was old so I recommended we first change it. I did and it burnt out again.


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## macmikeman (Jan 23, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> But he stated he replaced the fixture.


In that case, quit buying light bulbs that say Feit from Longs....


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## retiredsparktech (Mar 8, 2011)

macmikeman said:


> In that case, quit buying light bulbs that say Feit from Longs....


Menards sells that brand as well. Never buy them.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

MDShunk said:


> I'd like someone to show me how a loose connection on a resistive load can cause a voltage to spike above nominal. :laughing: If you can do that, you're on your way to being a bajillionaire.



I had a City Of Philidelphia public property electrician try to insist that a loose phase wire at a panel caused all these lights to burn out one time. Total resistive incandescent load. He was driving me nuts. I had to leave and come back when he wasn't there to find and fix the loose noodle.

His BS probably added another 500 bucks to the bill


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

macmikeman said:


> The fixture socket could have a higher resistance connection like a bad solder joint or missing strands where it connects. Ohm it out and compare it to the other fixture to see if something is amiss that way.



New fixture. Same problem with old fixture. And we use good quality bulbs. All rough service and usually last. I want to make sure electrically speaking the wiring does not have an issue. I can find no reason and in 20 years have not seen this issue. Sounds like no one else has either.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

den said:


> that was what i was going to say. I have had a lot of new bulbs that seem to be shorter than old bulbs and the tab in the bottom of the socket is pushed down so it is not making good connection and it gets hot or quits. Pull the tab back up if it stuck down. Are the bulbs actually blowed or just quitting



I've been running into this a lot lately. And it's not like I replace many edison base bulbs. I thought it was just me.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

joethemechanic said:


> I had a City Of Philidelphia public property electrician try to insist that a loose phase wire at a panel caused all these lights to burn out one time. Total resistive incandescent load. He was driving me nuts. I had to leave and come back when he wasn't there to find and fix the loose noodle.
> 
> His BS probably added another 500 bucks to the bill


A loose or faulty neutral should affect both lights on the switch. Only this one burns out.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

den said:


> that was what i was going to say. I have had a lot of new bulbs that seem to be shorter than old bulbs and the tab in the bottom of the socket is pushed down so it is not making good connection and it gets hot or quits. Pull the tab back up if it stuck down. Are the bulbs actually blowed or just quitting



Blown burnt kapoot kowpowey...Capice? :laughing:


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

OK, so halfway into the second page, I'm gonna ask:

What's the voltage to the lamp? :whistling2:


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

What about insulation above the fixture? Excessive heat can cause the lamp to fail.

I have a three bulb fixture in my bath with two bulbs that say "China" and one says "USA". Two of them are burned out. Guess which two.


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

InPhase277 said:


> What about insulation above the fixture? Excessive heat can cause the lamp to fail.
> 
> I have a three bulb fixture in my bath with two bulbs that say "China" and one says "USA". Two of them are burned out. Guess which two.


one of the one's that says China and the USA bulb ?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

I don't know how many of the hard service bulbs you tried but I would try another. If all connection are solid and everything wired properly then what can be wrong. Something is missing. I thought maybe the lights were in series but then both lights would go out when one bulb went out. 

Is there one switch leg or 2 switch legs going to the lights. I realize there is one switch but how many switch legs?

There really is only a few things that it can be and yet here we are. Try the cfl's as I suggested and see what happens.


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## Jeff000 (Jun 18, 2008)

I'd put an LED in there and see what happens.


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

_*


Bulldog1 said:



A loose or faulty neutral should affect both lights on the switch. Only this one burns out.

Click to expand...

*_

I have ran into this before. Re-splicing solved the issue. Still in contact and burnt bulb issue is gone.

I know you replaced the fixture and checked splices in that J Box but you never told us if it was the first fixture on the switch leg or if it was jumped over from the fixture that does not burn out. 

This could be your problem... Bad splice at the other fixture. You never mentioned looking at the other fixtures connections. Worth a shot.


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## joethemechanic (Sep 21, 2011)

Bulldog1 said:


> A loose or faulty neutral should affect both lights on the switch. Only this one burns out.



Oh yeah I know that isn't your case. I was just relating to MD's comment


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

480sparky said:


> OK, so halfway into the second page, I'm gonna ask:
> 
> What's the voltage to the lamp? :whistling2:



118V at the fixture.


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## Salvatoreg02 (Feb 26, 2011)

I agree with Cletis and resplice everything. Is it daisy chained at the end of the problem fixture or is it the last one.

Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

480sparky said:


> OK, so halfway into the second page, I'm gonna ask:
> 
> What's the voltage to the lamp? :whistling2:



I checked for voltage first and it was 118 volts.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Dennis Alwon said:


> I don't know how many of the hard service bulbs you tried but I would try another.



Just one but this is a repeat problem and I don't want the customer to think I don't know what I am doing.



Dennis Alwon said:


> If all connection are solid and everything wired properly then what can be wrong.




I don't know which is why I am posting this here.





Dennis Alwon said:


> Something is missing. I thought maybe the lights were in series but then both lights would go out when one bulb went out.
> 
> Is there one switch leg or 2 switch legs going to the lights. I realize there is one switch but how many switch legs?




2 switch legs. They were under the same screw. I pigtailled them but it was not the issue just hack work.





Dennis Alwon said:


> There really is only a few things that it can be and yet here we are. Try the cfl's as I suggested and see what happens.


That will be my recommendation.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Salvatoreg02 said:


> I agree with Cletis and resplice everything. Is it daisy chained at the end of the problem fixture or is it the last one.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


You would be the one to agree with Cletis....:laughing:


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## Salvatoreg02 (Feb 26, 2011)

Bulldog1 said:


> You would be the one to agree with Cletis....:laughing:


Your the one that calls himself an electrician. And you cant figure out why a bulb burns out. LMFAO.

Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


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## CanadianSparky (May 10, 2011)

Salvatoreg02 said:


> Your the one that calls himself an electrician. And you cant figure out why a bulb burns out. LMFAO.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


And who is to say you can solve the problem? You're not there so you don't know the whole story. He has said he has tried everything that everyone has suggested minus the CFL so obviously we are all electricians and can't figure out why the bulb is burning out.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Salvatoreg02 said:


> Your the one that calls himself an electrician. And you cant figure out why a bulb burns out. LMFAO.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum




I wanted to verify that I covered all my bases. I plan to show this thread to my customer. I try to provide the best customer service I can and want my customers to know I did what every real EC would do to troubleshoot the issue.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Let's get off the personal attacks and back to the ballgame folks. :thumbsup:


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

CanadianSparky said:


> And who is to say you can solve the problem? You're not there so you don't know the whole story. He has said he has tried everything that everyone has suggested minus the CFL so obviously we are all electricians and can't figure out why the bulb is burning out.



He is mad because I have been on him about the genny threads he posted. 


:laughing:


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Once again on this forum we get a decent question and half the people don't even read a third of the posts, the other half just makes some smartass or stupid posts and nobody really even made a decent effort to help the guy.
I don't know the answer either, I am guessing it has to be some type of vibration problem. Is there a room above the fixture that could do it??


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## CanadianSparky (May 10, 2011)

Bulldog1 said:


> He is mad because I have been on him about the genny threads he posted.
> 
> 
> :laughing:


I agree with what everyone else is suggesting.....CFL it. I have installed rough service bulbs before in fixtures and they still burn out due to kids upstairs stomping around and what not and that is when I just suggest CFL or continue replacing lamps. Does the door slam hard or no?


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

CanadianSparky said:


> I agree with what everyone else is suggesting.....CFL it. I have installed rough service bulbs before in fixtures and they still burn out due to kids upstairs stomping around and what not and that is when I just suggest CFL or continue replacing lamps. Does the door slam hard or no?




This fixture is built into the roof of the porch and is above a window 20 feet up. The fixture hangs on a chain also. I don't see vibration being the cause but I don't know.


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## Island Electric (May 9, 2011)

2 wires under 1 screw is a big red flag. It yells handyman DIY. Now I know you have 2 separate switch legs on the same switch. Next... is the switch leg a direct run to the light? It may land in a receptacle box upstairs before it actually goes outside. They may have just tied all the neutrals together in hypothetical box.
2 wires under 1 screw I say anything goes. Could be a J box in attic with loose connection. You did say the light was up high.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Island Electric said:


> 2 wires under 1 screw is a big red flag. It yells handyman DIY. Now I know you have 2 separate switch legs on the same switch. Next... is the switch leg a direct run to the light? It may land in a receptacle box upstairs before it actually goes outside. They may have just tied all the neutrals together in hypothetical box.
> 2 wires under 1 screw I say anything goes. Could be a J box in attic with loose connection. You did say the light was up high.



Nah this was installed when the house was built 6 years ago. I megged it also.


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## Salvatoreg02 (Feb 26, 2011)

Bulldog1 said:


> This fixture is built into the roof of the porch and is above a window 20 feet up. The fixture hangs on a chain also. I don't see vibration being the cause but I don't know.


How many bulbs are in this fixture?

Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Salvatoreg02 said:


> How many bulbs are in this fixture?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum




One bulb. If only one was burning out I would know the issue was inside the fixture.


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

There's something wrong with the world today, the light bulbs getting dim. There's meltdown in the sky.


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## sbrn33 (Mar 15, 2007)

Magnettica said:


> There's something wrong with the world today, the light bulbs getting dim. There's meltdown in the sky.


Great answer, your really smart


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## Magnettica (Jan 23, 2007)

sbrn33 said:


> Great answer, your really smart


It's "you're" but yeah, I hear ya. :thumbsup: :laughing:


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## Semi-Ret Electrician (Nov 10, 2011)

MDShunk said:


> I'd like someone to show me how a loose connection on a resistive load can cause a voltage to spike above nominal. :laughing: If you can do that, you're on your way to being a bajillionaire.


Mark if there was a loose connection to the bulb it may allow the filament to cool long enough that the tungsten pulls high current over and over, which is many times the normal run current.

Which is why we have tungsten rated switches.


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## Dhfisher (May 6, 2011)

Salvatoreg02 said:


> Your the one that calls himself an electrician. And you cant figure out why a bulb burns out. LMFAO.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ET Forum


Last week I count spell electrishion, now I are one!

Sent from my iPad using ET Forum


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## local134gt (Dec 24, 2008)

I had a similar issue at my moms house, installed CFL's and problem solved. Wish I knew what the exact reason was but oh well.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Excessive vibration
Over voltage
Excessive heat

Two similar bulbs on the same switched circuit?
Identical fixtures?

This stuff ain’t magic, there are only questions we don’t know the answer too!

Unfortunatly the reason for this could be expensive to locate and a CFL or LED might be the best solution.

LASTLY

Harmonics and grounding are the cause.


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## sparky970 (Mar 19, 2008)

Bulldog1 said:


> I have a customer who has a light in the ceiling of her front porch. She says the bulb burns out every 2 weeks or so. The fixture was old so I recommended we first change it. I did and it burnt out again. It has another light on the same switch that does not burn out. I put in a 130V bulb. It lasted 3 weeks. Any thoughts on what I should look for?



Rough service or CFL


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

I bet its vibration... if it was heat you might smell something once in a while.. 
I was working late one night last week in a beauty salon while they were closed for the holidays, and evey time someone walked over a certain spot in the room above the one track head would vibrate like hell.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

brian john said:


> Excessive vibration
> Over voltage
> Excessive heat




This is a hanging fixture and the wiring to it looks bright and shiny. I do not see heat being an issue. When I checked the voltage it was normal and if it was an over voltage the other fixture on the same switch should also blow out IMO. Vibration is not a possibility because there is only a roof above it (no floor). It also is hanging from a 6" chain ans IMO that would rule out vibration as it is not solidly mounted to the ceiling.




brian john said:


> Two similar bulbs on the same switched circuit?
> Identical fixtures?
> 
> This stuff ain’t magic, there are only questions we don’t know the answer too!




The fixtures were different. The one above the garage is a surface mount sconce. The one in question is a hanging fixture. 








brian john said:


> Unfortunately the reason for this could be expensive to locate and a CFL or LED might be the best solution.
> 
> LASTLY
> 
> Harmonics and grounding are the cause.



If harmonics and grounding are a possibility why does it ONLY affect the one bulb?


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

captkirk said:


> I bet its vibration... if it was heat you might smell something once in a while..
> I was working late one night last week in a beauty salon while they were closed for the holidays, and evey time someone walked over a certain spot in the room above the one track head would vibrate like hell.


The way this porch is built I can't see vibration being an issue. Also they use the garage door mainly.


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## bmart (Dec 28, 2011)

The two lights could be wired in series to 240V. If the wattage isn't equal then because of different resistances one bulb of *lower *wattage would burn much brighter than the *higher* wattage bulb and burn out. Check the voltages, also unscrew one of the two lights to see if the other goes off, then you will know for sure if they are wired in series.

bmart


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

bmart said:


> The two lights could be wired in series to 240V. If the wattage isn't equal then because of different resistances one bulb of higher wattage would burn much brighter than the lower wattage bulb and burn out. Check the voltages, also unscrew one of the two lights to see if the other goes off, then you will know for sure if they are wired in series.
> 
> bmart


I believe that he stated their were two switch legs from a single pole switch. I don't think that is the issue. Also the other light would also go out and he said that only the one light goes out.


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## bmart (Dec 28, 2011)

He had another light on the same switch may not mean there are two switch legs.I agree however if one light stays lit my theory goes down the toilet. LOL however this has happened to a client of mine using three way switches and somehow had wired them wrong, A outdoor porch light and an indoor kitchen light were tied together on seperate switches.


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## 76nemo (Aug 13, 2008)

Bulldog1 said:


> This is a hanging fixture and the wiring to it looks bright and shiny. I do not see heat being an issue. When I checked the voltage it was normal and if it was an over voltage the other fixture on the same switch should also blow out IMO. Vibration is not a possibility because there is only a roof above it (no floor). It also is hanging from a 6" chain ans IMO that would rule out vibration as it is not solidly mounted to the ceiling.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

That was a joke Bulldog..........


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

The husband was there today and mentioned the flood lights on the rear of the house had the same problem but not as often. They put CFL floods in 6 months ago and they are still working.


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## CanadianSparky (May 10, 2011)

Bulldog1 said:


> The husband was there today and mentioned the flood lights on the rear of the house had the same problem but not as often. They put CFL floods in 6 months ago and they are still working.


There is your answer


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

CanadianSparky said:


> There is your answer



Installed one today. We will see. :thumbsup:


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## wildleg (Apr 12, 2009)

Bulldog1 said:


> The husband was there today and mentioned the flood lights on the rear of the house had the same problem but not as often. They put CFL floods in 6 months ago and they are still working.


aha ! there is more to this story. is this an overhead service ? do the light bulbs only blow on windy days ?


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## bmart (Dec 28, 2011)

Nobody mentioned *resonance!*

bmart


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## CanadianSparky (May 10, 2011)

bmart said:


> nobody mentioned reasonance!
> 
> Bmart


what?


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## bmart (Dec 28, 2011)

CanadianSparky said:


> what?


 *resonance*


bmart


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

CanadianSparky said:


> There is your answer


 That is not an answer but a temp. fix. The problem is still there.


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

Bulldog1 said:


> If harmonics and grounding are a possibility why does it ONLY affect the one bulb?



It is magic and I am not allowed to divulge the answer:laughing:


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

> This is a hanging fixture and the wiring to it looks bright and shiny. I do not see heat being an issue. When I checked the voltage it was normal and if it was an over voltage the other fixture on the same switch should also blow out IMO. Vibration is not a possibility because there is only a roof above it (no floor). It also is hanging from a 6" chain ans IMO that would rule out vibration as it is not solidly mounted to the ceiling.


Not conductor heat, heat trapped in the fixture overheating the bulb.


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## Arc'n'Spark (Jul 21, 2011)

wildleg said:


> aha ! there is more to this story. is this an overhead service ? do the light bulbs only blow on windy days ?


I had the same thought after reading about the the chain hung fixture. Bulldog, were there any high wind days around the time of the lamp burn-outs?


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Dennis Alwon said:


> That is not an answer but a temp. fix. The problem is still there.


I have several customers in that area. I called another one and she said they also have bulbs that burn out every few months. I'm thinking poco is the cause.


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## Bulldog1 (Oct 21, 2011)

Arc'n'Spark said:


> I had the same thought after reading about the the chain hung fixture. Bulldog, were there any high wind days around the time of the lamp burn-outs?


Wind can't reach the fixture. The porch blocks the fixture from wind.


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## A Little Short (Nov 11, 2010)

Bulldog1 said:


> Wind can't reach the fixture. The porch blocks the fixture from wind.


That looks like two eyeballs looking down.
The fixture (eyeball) on the left is trying to outshine the one on the right and burns it's self out.:thumbup::laughing:

Seriously, if the cfl burns out, try a keyless with a globe as a test. Could be the types of fixtures you installed don't like the outdoor conditions.


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