# Teck Connector Sizing, layout and glanding



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

T&B makes a handy sliding chart that makes selecting Teck connectors easy. It accounts for number/size of conductors, insulation and brand of cable.


----------



## Kadester (Jul 15, 2015)

Thank you! Now I just need a solid method for planning out the knockouts on the cabinets! anyone care to take a stab?


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

Southwire Marksman

http://www.southwire.ca/en/products/maxis-marksman.htm


----------



## glen1971 (Oct 10, 2012)

I typically take 2 of the largest connector then space them out with about 1/2" of space between them and get the center to center... Then grab a 3rd one and set it ahead of the other 2 centered in the space, and get that measurement.. Then transfer those measurement lines to the ENTIRE panel surface, then mark out the quantity of holes you need and start drilling...
If they are similar in size, they usually look like this for me:

x x x x x
x x x x 
x x x x x

Don't forget about the back plate (if applicable) in the control panel, junction box, etc....

If you have an assortment of sizes, I tend to enter the larger ones at the back of a panel. 

If you're using a ground bushing or GRL try and keep them lined up. I do mine to the front. It makes doing your bonding way easier, looks neater and doesn't take any more time.

If it's a lighting panel, I'm not a fan of entering cables directly into it for new construction... Existing is another story.. New construction I put a wireway above the panel and 3 or 4 2" nipples down to the panel, depending on what's needed. Then I route the wires in the wireway so that the odds and their neuts come down the left nipple and the evens and their neuts down the right.. That way the only wires crossing in the panel are the neutrals, if the bar is only on one side.. I've also installed a ground bar in the wireway and do all my cable bonding up top, instead of taking them into the panel...

Hope that helps a little....


----------



## BlackHowling (Feb 27, 2013)

glen1971 said:


> I typically take 2 of the largest connector then space them out with about 1/2" of space between them and get the center to center... Then grab a 3rd one and set it ahead of the other 2 centered in the space, and get that measurement.. Then transfer those measurement lines to the ENTIRE panel surface, then mark out the quantity of holes you need and start drilling...
> 
> If they are similar in size, they usually look like this for me:
> 
> ...



That pretty much sums up how I do it


----------



## Gnome (Dec 25, 2013)

Yep. Though I'll add for connectors say 200 and above I like to leave a little more space between; maybe 3/4". And if I'm going to have three or more rows I like to stagger the rows 50% of the interconnector distance.

EG:

```
X X X X X X X X X
 X X X X X X X X 
X X X X X X X X X
```
It makes them a little easier to loosen/tighten in the future and it makes reading cable tags easier.

And watch out for welded bond lugs on the side of the case interfering with your nice neat pattern.

Sizing of the connectors can be a little hit or miss because the jacket diameter varies depending on how tight the wire spiral is and how tight the armour is on the inner jacket and I haven't found it all that consistent even from the same manufacturer. EG: Two chunks of 3c4 can have a full size difference and you won't know for sure until you have the wire. It's a bitch when the connectors break over a knock out size like 075 to 100 or 100 to 125. 

Lay your initial grid out in pencil before marking your final hole locations in marker. I lust after a Marksman but in the interm I use a speed square. Swanson makes a plastic version of their 8" square that is light and durable.


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

I hope you're not that guy who doesn't put STL on his Teck connectors, and then uses a pair of regular tooth-y Channellocks to mangle the connector to death. Get some oil filter pliers for the intermediate to large sizes and a strap wrench for the really big ones.


----------



## Gnome (Dec 25, 2013)

Well no STL on a lock ring usually just hubs.

Here's my connector tools:









The Cobra water pump pliers have pretty fine teeth so a simple wrap of tape makes them non-marring enough to protect the connector. I think the oil filter pliers are good up to 350s; haven't actually used them for something that large since I got them though. Luckily have only needed a strap wrench for one job and the company supplied it.


----------



## Vintage Sounds (Oct 23, 2009)

Gnome said:


> Well no STL on a lock ring usually just hubs.
> 
> Here's my connector tools:
> 
> ...


Sorry, I meant that for the OP, but your stuff looks good. Is the yellow spray paint deliberate?


----------



## Gnome (Dec 25, 2013)

Yes. All my personal tools are yellow and green to a greater or lesser degree. Makes them easy to differentiate them from everyone elses.


----------

