# Cord and Plug for High Bays



## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Might be a dumb question ... 



Jlarson said:


> I've gone to the UFO style too. Run MC w/TL receps at each light, laser all the points and put in a eye bolt then come back and clip the fixtures up.


I see 2x4's and 2x2's (edit - highbays) going in both hardwired and cord and plug around here. Since they don't last forever, I think it's a no brainer, you want the cord and plug. Big difference in labor when they reach their 50,000 hour or 100,000 hour end of life. 

If you don't, and a good bean counter looks closely, the labor of replacing the lights eats all the power savings - especially with the lower power fixtures. You just swap utility costs for supply house costs and electrician costs. 

A NEMA L7-15R receptacle going for about $10 and a cord and plug for say $15, and it lets you do more of the work on the ground so there's some labor saved to offset the $25 ...


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Just remember the fixture must be located below the outlet if you use cord and plug. This gets missed sometimes



> 410.62(C) Electric-Discharge and LED Luminaires. Electricdischarge
> and LED luminaires shall comply with (1), (2), and
> (3) as applicable.
> 
> ...


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

splatz said:


> Might be a dumb question ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You can order the fixture with a NEMA15 plug. Is the ceiling a plenum where the cord will be?


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

VELOCI3 said:


> You can order the fixture with a NEMA15 plug. Is the ceiling a plenum where the cord will be?


This is for high bays in an open ceiling (warehouse).


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

splatz said:


> This is for high bays in an open ceiling (warehouse).


I would get the fixture from the factory with the cord only and wire to a JB. Unless there is some unforeseen issue like access to fixture, minimizing downtime needed to stop operations to perform lamp changes, design etc... that is the easiest and most cost effective way. Caddy makes an aircraft cable kit that is great for pendant HB and LB fixtures. 

It comes down to time and money. Always. The cool thing is you can do it a bunch of different ways depending on the conditions. Also more expensive is RELOC but it’s fast (looks like crap too)


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

VELOCI3 said:


> I would get the fixture from the factory with the cord only and wire to a JB. Unless there is some unforeseen issue like access to fixture, minimizing downtime needed to stop operations to perform lamp changes, design etc... that is the easiest and most cost effective way. Caddy makes an aircraft cable kit that is great for pendant HB and LB fixtures.
> 
> 
> 
> It comes down to time and money. Always. The cool thing is you can do it a bunch of different ways depending on the conditions. Also more expensive is RELOC but it’s fast (looks like crap too)


This option sounds the best. Is avoid having a plug on it because that's a failure point. When it comes time to replace the lights, it's only an extra few minutes (5 minutes) per fixture to do joints... assuming the JB is accessible.

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## joebanana (Dec 21, 2010)

VELOCI3 said:


> I would get the fixture from the factory with the cord only and wire to a JB. Unless there is some unforeseen issue like access to fixture, minimizing downtime needed to stop operations to perform lamp changes, design etc... that is the easiest and most cost effective way. Caddy makes an aircraft cable kit that is great for pendant HB and LB fixtures.
> 
> It comes down to time and money. Always. The cool thing is you can do it a bunch of different ways depending on the conditions. *Also more expensive is RELOC but it’s fast (looks like crap too)*



The "more expensive" is offset by not having to run conduit, pull wire, and add boxes for each fixture. The "looks like crap" part depends on the installer. The "fast" part is the best part. A lift, small compressor, and pneumatic stapler, is way fast, compared to conduit.


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## Cow (Jan 16, 2008)

We cord and plug probably 99% of the time.


We have had some issues in dairies where there is a lot of humidity from the cows, the moisture burns the receps and cord ends out right where they twist together.


We've had to hardwire in some of those areas where burnout turned out to be an ongoing problem.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

joebanana said:


> The "more expensive" is offset by not having to run conduit, pull wire, and add boxes for each fixture. The "looks like crap" part depends on the installer. The "fast" part is the best part. A lift, small compressor, and pneumatic stapler, is way fast, compared to conduit.


If romex is allowed yes romex is the cheapest way. That’s why romex is the cable of choice for temporary wiring.


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## joebanana (Dec 21, 2010)

VELOCI3 said:


> If romex is allowed yes romex is the cheapest way. That’s why romex is the cable of choice for temporary wiring.


Who's talking about Romex, or temporary wiring? I was referring to Reloks, the savings in labor alone is offset by price. Besides, Romex isn't allowed in commercial bldgs.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

I almost always go cord and TL. If the lights can't be ordered that way they get a cord and plug while they are all sitting together on a pallet and we'll make up all the receps with tails and RS covers.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Cow said:


> We cord and plug probably 99% of the time.
> 
> 
> We have had some issues in dairies where there is a lot of humidity from the cows, the moisture burns the receps and cord ends out right where they twist together.
> ...





Yeah, outside under canopies at waste water plants is about the only time we don't go with TL plugs.


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## VELOCI3 (Aug 15, 2019)

Jlarson said:


> I almost always go cord and TL. If the lights can't be ordered that way they get a cord and plug while they are all sitting together on a pallet and we'll make up all the receps with tails and RS covers.


3 wirenuts compared to a receptacle/austin cover/TL plug? If you’re gonna strip the end of the cable anyway you should just splice it in the JB. The only way this makes sense is if the TL receptacle is existing otherwise you are not saving time. Plus the extra cord you will have to roll up. Plus TL are only good for dry areas whereas the fixture is rated damp areas most of the time.


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## Going_Commando (Oct 1, 2011)

We cord and plug hi-bays most of the time.


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## kb1jb1 (Nov 11, 2017)

Based on 2014 NEC. Does the NEC specify that you have to use twist locks? In warehouses or other high ceiling places, depending on the fixture or luminary, I usually use 14/3 manufactured 4 foot power tails with straight blades which cost about $6.00 or $7.00. I jump in before the build out of the space and install 1900 boxes, duplex receptacles, and finished raised plates where the lights go. I make up everything on the ground and then plug them in. Easy to replace if they get broken or go bad. Also the tenant can take them when he moves out if he wants.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Just has to be a grounding type plug. 



We're almost always doing 277 volt so L7-15's are pretty much the norm here for that, don't see many straight blade 277 receps.


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## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

kb1jb1 said:


> Based on 2014 NEC. Does the NEC specify that you have to use twist locks? In warehouses or other high ceiling places, depending on the fixture or luminary, I usually use 14/3 manufactured 4 foot power tails with straight blades which cost about $6.00 or $7.00. I jump in before the build out of the space and install 1900 boxes, duplex receptacles, and finished raised plates where the lights go. I make up everything on the ground and then plug them in. Easy to replace if they get broken or go bad. Also the tenant can take them when he moves out if he wants.


I'm not sure about NEC, but IIRC Ontario Electrical Code requires a twist lock if the receptacle is facing down to prevent gravity from doing it's thing.

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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

There is a 7-15P that's not L7-15P but I don't think I've ever seen one in person and wouldn't see using it myself. The twistlock cord+plug sets are pretty cheap.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

The factory whips, if available, are the fastest and cheapest IMHO. Particularly the ones that plug into the fixture as well: no need to even open the ballast compartment.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

splatz said:


> There is a 7-15P that's not L7-15P but I don't think I've ever seen one in person and wouldn't see using it myself. The twistlock cord+plug sets are pretty cheap.





I think I've only ever seen 3 7-15's ever.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

Does anyone still do cord and plug with 0-10V dimming? 

I am thinking it might still be worth doing with two cords for two plugs.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Just drop the dimming wires down and levernut or wire nut them. Another reason I like the UFO's they come with a dimming pigtail already set.


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