# New garage build



## Kevin (Feb 14, 2017)

I'm not sure what the NEC says, but up here I use 1" auger and can put 3 x 12/2 cables through the hole easily.

The rest i can't help with lol


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## John M. (Oct 29, 2016)

You need 1-1/4" of wood between your hole and the edge of the stud. So you can drill a 1" hole in a 2X4 stud.


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## mofos be cray (Nov 14, 2016)

John M. said:


> You need 1-1/4" of wood between your hole and the edge of the stud. So you can drill a 1" hole in a 2X4 stud.


Framing depending, LVL or manufactured truss you go with spec


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I use Bosch Daredevil bits with an extension. If you’re in a tight corner, take the extension off. If you want more reach, add another extension.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

Unless you are covering with sheetrock or wood your nm cable must follow the framing. You cannot drill between studs and have the cable loose in between.



> 334.15 Exposed Work. In exposed work, except as provided
> in 300.11(A), cable shall be installed as specified in 334.15(A)
> through (C).
> (A) To Follow Surface. Cable shall closely follow the surface
> ...


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

I do not do much in residential but in a garage, I think I'd be running up over the joists / trusses or using stackers or something to hang the cable off the bottom of the rafters and coming through the top plates so there wouldn't be a lot of drilling and it would only be for one or two cables. 

You should be able to avoid nails so the daredevil bits should be OK but do NOT make the mistake of just buying one or two. One nail and they are done. I have not decided whether they're better in a drill or an impact, when they're sharp the impact sometimes goes insanely fast. I'd sooner buy one good 7/8" or 1" naileating auger bit and know you'll be able to finish the job even if you get unlucky with nails but that's me

I am not real good at nailing in staples and I'd use that as an excuse to buy the Dewalt DCN701B stapler. 


















20V MAX* Cordless Cable Stapler Kit | DEWALT


The DEWALT® 20V MAX* Cordless Cable Stapler is built for residential wiring applications, primarily fastening Romex® brand wires and cables. Made in the USA with global materials, this stapler has ...




www.dewalt.com





$199 at Home Depot









DEWALT 20-Volt MAX Lithium-Ion Cordless Cable Stapler (Tool-Only) DCN701B - The Home Depot


The DEWALT 20-Volt MAX Cordless Cable Stapler is built for residential wiring applications, primarily fastening Romex brand wires and cables. This stapler has a proprietary cable guide that helps to drive



www.homedepot.com


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Unless you are covering with sheetrock or wood your nm cable must follow the framing. You cannot drill between studs and have the cable loose in between.


Huh? Is there a height allowance? What about between joists? What are you supposed to hang your laundry from if there is no Romex run between joists in a mechanical/laundry room?


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

99cents said:


> Huh? Is there a height allowance? What about between joists? What are you supposed to hang your laundry from if there is no Romex run between joists in a mechanical/laundry room?


We run some nm thru the joist and don't connect it to the electrical system so they can hang their boats, skies, bikes etc....LOL


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Dennis Alwon said:


> We run some nm thru the joist and don't connect it to the electrical system so they can hang their boats, skies, bikes etc....LOL


🤣


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## Dark Knight (Jan 6, 2016)

I use a 3/4” auger and plan for one wire per hole. It’s big enough to add another wire if I need, but I don’t like pulling 2 wires in a hole unless I can pull them at the same time. A little bit of friction and you start rubbing the jackets off. Any auger bigger than 3/4 beats the sh!t out of your drill. The daredevil bits are excellent, but as @splatz said, one nail and they’re done. They make very nice, clean holes though and for just a garage the odds of hitting a nail with the few holes you’re going to need are slim.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

splatz said:


> I do not do much in residential but in a garage, I think I'd be running up over the joists / trusses or using stackers or something to hang the cable off the bottom of the rafters and coming through the top plates so there wouldn't be a lot of drilling and it would only be for one or two cables.
> 
> You should be able to avoid nails so the daredevil bits should be OK but do NOT make the mistake of just buying one or two. One nail and they are done. I have not decided whether they're better in a drill or an impact, when they're sharp the impact sometimes goes insanely fast. I'd sooner buy one good 7/8" or 1" naileating auger bit and know you'll be able to finish the job even if you get unlucky with nails but that's me
> 
> ...


37 loonies at Home Depot.


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## Dennis Alwon (May 9, 2009)

99cents said:


> 🤣



We actually did something like that with a skylite. The builder warned us that there was going to be a skylite in this area and said to keep wiring away from it. Of course, we ran a piece of nm thru the skylite that went nowhere.

I got a call that night saying your a..hole guys ran a wire thru the damn skylite. I told you all not to and I know you didn't do it.... I just laughed and told him I did do it... Next time look where the wire goes. He finally got it..


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## 460 Delta (May 9, 2018)

99cents said:


> 37 loonies at Home Depot.
> View attachment 151998




You and your Estwing.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

Dennis Alwon said:


> We actually did something like that with a skylite. The builder warned us that there was going to be a skylite in this area and said to keep wiring away from it. Of course, we ran a piece of nm thru the skylite that went nowhere.
> 
> I got a call that night saying your a..hole guys ran a wire thru the damn skylite. I told you all not to and I know you didn't do it.... I just laughed and told him I did do it... Next time look where the wire goes. He finally got it..


I had something similar pulled on me many, many years ago.

Fly in community. Building complete, owners coming for final in 2 days. I'm basically cleaning up and hanging around for the owners.

Carpenters, on the other hand, forgot to put blocking in the stairwells for handrails so they're cutting holes in painted drywall. One guy comes to me with a stupid look on his face and said he made a mistake. I go look and there's a square hole cut between 2 studs at handrail height and right through the middle of it was a piece of chewed up loomex (romex).

While my right hand was travelling at light speed for his throat, my left got to the loomex first and pulled it free. He had drilled two holes in the studs and shoved a scrap piece of loomex into the holes.

A joke's a joke, but some guys can't tell the difference between a joke and flirting with serious bodily harm.....


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## jbfan (Jan 22, 2007)

Dennis Alwon said:


> Unless you are covering with sheetrock or wood your nm cable must follow the framing. You cannot drill between studs and have the cable loose in between.


I'm not sure how long they will keep the permit open. With the price increase in wood products, my inside finish money is now going to the builder. The wood package went up $2200 from the time I got the bid. 



99cents said:


> I use Bosch Daredevil bits with an extension. If you’re in a tight corner, take the extension off. If you want more reach, add another extension.


I had 1 7/8 daredevil bit and it worked great, until! I found several older bits that worked, until. I did find an older 7/8 shop auger that let me finish most of the holes.

Still no answers on the arcfault.


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## joe-nwt (Mar 28, 2019)

According to the CEC, no. Don't know about the NEC.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

jbfan said:


> Still no answers on the arcfault.


I guess you are on the 2017 NEC? I think since this is a detached garage, it is not a dwelling according to the article 100 definition of a dwelling. The arc fault requirements in article 210.12 are for dwellings (section A), dormitory units (section B), and guest rooms and guest suites (section (C)), none of which apply.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I doubt if arc faults are required but I’m going to say something ridiculous here. Arc fault technology has improved and it has been a long time since I have had a bad one. If it wasn’t for the cost, because I’m cheap, I might think about putting them in regardless of code if it was my own place.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

99cents said:


> I doubt if arc faults are required but I’m going to say something ridiculous here. Arc fault technology has improved and it has been a long time since I have had a bad one. If it wasn’t for the cost, because I’m cheap, I might think about putting them in regardless of code if it was my own place.


I believe the nuisance tripping has improved but I am not convinced that they are really better and maybe in a sense worse in that they just don't detect jack **** any more. I am always looking for people's reports here and there have been a couple that said they had tripping arc faults identify wiring issues. If that's the case, that's a good thing. 

Another thing I'd think about in my own house, I am skeptical that they will have the lifespan of regular breakers.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

460 Delta said:


> You and your Estwing.


🤣

Actually, my Estwing met its match last week. I tried stapling Romex to the underside of fir joists that were hard as rock. I screwed in straps.


splatz said:


> I believe the nuisance tripping has improved but I am not convinced that they are really better and maybe in a sense worse in that they just don't detect jack **** any more. I am always looking for people's reports here and there have been a couple that said they had tripping arc faults identify wiring issues. If that's the case, that's a good thing.
> 
> Another thing I'd think about in my own house, I am skeptical that they will have the lifespan of regular breakers.


I just hate paying the breaker guys an extra 50 bucks for 99 cents worth of electronics.


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## MotoGP1199 (Aug 11, 2014)

99cents said:


> I just hate paying the breaker guys an extra 50 bucks for 99 cents worth of electronics.


99 cents huh....... are you saying the value you bring to this site is the same value an AFCI breaker brings to the safety of a home, lol

Anyways we all know it's about 99 cents worth of electronics, however you forgot to mention the $20 worth of bribes per breaker.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MotoGP1199 said:


> 99 cents huh....... are you saying the value you bring to this site is the same value an AFCI breaker brings to the safety of a home, lol
> 
> Anyways we all know it's about 99 cents worth of electronics, however you forgot to mention the $20 worth of bribes per breaker.


I never thought of it that way.

Arc faults suck.


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## mofos be cray (Nov 14, 2016)

My biggest objection to the arc fault requirement is the added cost to every job. It basically encourages people with no money to do something beyond their skill because it is harder to afford. More cost with negligible benefit is not a good combination.


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## jbfan (Jan 22, 2007)

Passed rough in today. The inspector asked if I was going to cover the walls, and he said anything I do after the final is ok with him.


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