# Adding additional exterior lights



## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

When you guys wire up new homes, do you normally maximize the circuits on exterior lights?
I have a client with a 3 car garage so there are 4 brick columns. They have lights on either end and want me to add 2 new light points to the inner columns tied to the existing lighting.
I'm using the picture as an example.

How would you normally go about doing this? If the circuit is full I would need to install them on a different switch which is not what they want.

How would you guys approach this estimate and how would you price it? I have to rent a 4" coring bit and open the walls up in the garage. I was thinking to run ac90 along the interior wall as well.

Thanks


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

I would come out of the back of one of those boxes to feed the other 2 lights. I would run romex along the corner where the wall meets the ceiling UNLESS it is a really nice garage without any other wires, then I would run pipe UNLESS the owner wanted it even neater, then I would make holes and bury it in the walls. You only need to get a pancake box in there, so you might be able to cut enough brick out with an angle grinder and chisel. 

I would completely ignore and disregard the stupid Canadian rule of only having so much on a circuit, it is meaningless and not based in safety. Our houses aren't burning down because too many outlets and lights are on a circuit, your's won't either.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

LEDs should change your calculus.


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## MikeFL (Apr 16, 2016)

You could switch a 2 pole relay if it comes to that.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Forget about drilling a 4" hole. That fixture will hide a surface mounted pancake box. Pick up power from your closest point. If you can't pick up the switch leg easily, no problem. Put a Caseta in your JB and replace the existing switch with a Diva. Done.


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## active1 (Dec 29, 2009)

Like said the 1st choice would be see if a pancake box would work.
I cut in more brick boxes than I want to think of. Never, ever with a 4" core bit.
Mark your brick, handy, cut-in box on the wall.
Using a small hammer drill bit like 1/8 start going around the line, getting the holes close together. Then hit those holes again with a 1/4 bit. Then a 3/8 where needed. Take your drill and do a few diagonals connecting the holes if needed. What ever is left a hammer and brick chisel should be able to knock loose. You may have to do the same drilling to split the brick into smaller pieces. Careful not to knock it too hard or you may take a bit more off than you want. Try to make it along a grout line.

Too mach on a circuit? That's where an electrician comes in handy to figure out the load. First thing I would look at is what's powering the garage, how many circuits.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> Forget about drilling a 4" hole. That fixture will hide a surface mounted pancake box. Pick up power from your closest point. If you can't pick up the switch leg easily, no problem. Put a Caseta in your JB and replace the existing switch with a Diva. Done.


Whats a caseta?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> Whats a caseta?


It's Lutron wireless. The Caseta is the 120V master and the Diva is the battery powered slave. If you can't pick up the switch leg easily but can find constant power, you can mount the Caseta on a JB (you will need one if you use two pancake boxes anyway) and mount the Diva beside the existing switch. The four lights won't be tied together, though, but the switches will be side by side.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

NDC said:


> Whats a caseta?


Forget about it. It's a garage, you are going to have to do some wiring anyway, so just wire to one of the lights and give the customer all 4 lights on 1 switch like they want.


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

It's astonishing what a Fein Multi-Master can do with a diamond blade.

You don't have to use it more than to trim out what more conventional tools perform.

( ie the corners )


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

1. No way do you need a core drill for brick. 

2. If you are dead set on two circuits us a switching relay.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Forget about it. It's a garage, you are going to have to do some wiring anyway, so just wire to one of the lights and give the customer all 4 lights on 1 switch like they want.


It's a suggestion. He could pull power off a door opener receptacle.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> It's a suggestion. He could pull power off a door opener receptacle.


Which would be like 2 foot closer than the light with the switch leg in it already.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> Which would be like 2 foot closer than the light with the switch leg in it already.


I'm offering a suggestion. The door opener receptacle is available. He can put a handy box extension on it and pipe to his fixture locations.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> I'm offering a suggestion. The door opener receptacle is available. He can put a handy box extension on it and pipe to his fixture locations.


I am trying to help you.

The customer wants the new lights tied into the existing ones. He can do that very easily. Popping out from the back of the existing light will take about 13 seconds, and it will be just as easy to get to the new light from there as it would be to get to the new light from the door opener receptacle.

Your idea of adding expensive electronic devices that go against the exact thing that the customer wants (having them tied together with 1 switch) is not a good idea. 

You need to stop with this stuff and start trying to accommodate the customer more.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

This used to be a forum for sharing ideas. Now it's an effing pissing contest.

The OP didn't know about Lutron wireless. Now he does. If it doesn't work on this job he has it in his back pocket for another job. Is there something wrong with that?


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

Never mind. While you guys were talking about it I drove to Toronto, did 
the job, and drove back to Ottawa. 
P&L


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> This used to be a forum for sharing ideas. Now it's an effing pissing contest.


 I am just trying to help you. You keep saying how hard it is for you to get jobs, yet you then make posts like this which go directly against what the customer wants, and for no good reason. 

And this is far from the first time, it seems like every time someone asks how to do something the customer wants you tell them to do something else that the customer didn't want. Your mentality is always "_Fu*k the customer, do it this way_". That's not the way to get jobs.

There is absolutely no reason why NDC can't give the customer exactly what they want by coming out of the existing sconce, and it will be easier and cheaper than your method.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I am just trying to help you. You keep saying how hard it is for you to get jobs, yet you then make posts like this which go directly against what the customer wants, and for no good reason.
> 
> And this is far from the first time, it seems like every time someone asks how to do something the customer wants you tell them to do something else that the customer didn't want. Your mentality is always "_Fu*k the customer, do it this way_". That's not the way to get jobs.
> 
> There is absolutely no reason why NDC can't give the customer exactly what they want by coming out of the existing sconce, and it will be easier and cheaper than your method.


I haven't had one customer who wouldn't invite me back to do more work. Not one. And I'm very satisfied with my hit rate on closing new business.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> I haven't had one customer who wouldn't invite me back to do more work. Not one. And I'm very satisfied with my hit rate on closing new business.


But you have thousands that never used you in the first place :laughing: 

This is what you said in the other thread, you flip-flop more than John Kerry:



99cents said:


> For some of us who are scrapping for business we have to capitalize on opportunities.


Capitalizing on opportunities is giving the customer what they want. It's not installing expensive electronic devices that will give the customer the exact opposite of what they want.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> But you have thousands that never used you in the first place :laughing:
> 
> This is what you said in the other thread, you flip-flop more than John Kerry:
> 
> ...


Expensive? A Lutron kit costs $70.00 Canadian. At that price it solves a lot of things. I put one in a medical clinic two weeks ago. I will be putting one in a kitchen job next week. It gives you the opportunity to put the master in any location and the slave exactly where you want it.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> Expensive? A Lutron kit costs $70.00 Canadian. At that price it solves a lot of things. I put one in a medical clinic two weeks ago. I will be putting one in a kitchen job next week. It gives you the opportunity to put the master in any location and the slave exactly where you want it.


That's great, you should probably post that in the Tips and Tricks thread.

I am sure there are a lot of instances one can use that without it going against what the customer wants and adding unnecessary extra cost to the job.

I installed a wireless Leviton switch and receptacle combo the other day, the switch makes it's own electricity to power itself, it's pretty cool. I did it because the customer just HAD to have his lamp switched by a wall switch, but had no reasonable way to run wiring without making holes across his condo. He was very happy that he got what he wanted.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

And I'm not arguing with you, Hack, that the customer asked for common switching.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

If you're going to spend money on Caseta you can put the old lights and the new lights on a single switch AND switch the inside lights with Caseta too AND get them fobs for their vehicles AND put a switch in the house in case someone forgets to turn out the lights in the garage on a rainy night. Then accept their accolades, cash their check, and go home and wait for them to ask for more stupid lighting tricks for the main house. (No biggie which circuit you tap, convert it to LED and reduce the load anyway.)


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

How do you put two circuits on the same Caseta?


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

99cents said:


> How do you put two circuits on the same Caseta?


Make it a scene


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

99cents said:


> How do you put two circuits on the same Caseta?


Put all the lights on 1 switch first.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

splatz said:


> Make it a scene


Is that complicated? I have never done it.


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## splatz (May 23, 2015)

99cents said:


> Is that complicated? I have never done it.


Look at page 13 here...

https://support.smartthings.com/hc/...115002631466/Caseta_Advanced_Instructions.pdf

(half joking about making a mountain out of this molehill but if they are gadget people...)


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

splatz said:


> Look at page 13 here...
> 
> https://support.smartthings.com/hc/...115002631466/Caseta_Advanced_Instructions.pdf
> 
> (half joking about making a mountain out of this molehill but if they are gadget people...)


They need to make switches that look like switches. I have tried to sell people solutions that may have worked for them, but the odd switches that the customers have to get their glasses out to see what to press always turns them off to the idea. Even the simplest one with 2 switches is different than all the rest, and customers didn't like it.

A standard toggle or decora would be great. That's why I was glad the Leviton switch I mentioned earlier cam in decora.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

active1 said:


> Like said the 1st choice would be see if a pancake box would work.
> I cut in more brick boxes than I want to think of. Never, ever with a 4" core bit.
> Mark your brick, handy, cut-in box on the wall.
> Using a small hammer drill bit like 1/8 start going around the line, getting the holes close together. Then hit those holes again with a 1/4 bit. Then a 3/8 where needed. Take your drill and do a few diagonals connecting the holes if needed. What ever is left a hammer and brick chisel should be able to knock loose. You may have to do the same drilling to split the brick into smaller pieces. Careful not to knock it too hard or you may take a bit more off than you want. Try to make it along a grout line.


I agree with the pancake box first, but if that was a no go because of the fixture style, I would get the core drill. That light box would be drilled in about 3 minutes. No friggin around with 1/8", 1/4" blah, blah... way too time consuming.

Cheers
John


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Navyguy said:


> I agree with the pancake box first, but if that was a no go because of the fixture style, I would get the core drill. That light box would be drilled in about 3 minutes. No friggin around with 1/8", 1/4" blah, blah... way too time consuming.
> 
> Cheers
> John


A pancake box is 1/2" deep. I have cut many into brick by making a few quick cuts with an angle grinder and a few quick hits with a cold chisel and lump hammer. I am a lazy bastard, but it's not even worth getting out the hammer drill to chip away the brick, it comes out easily with the chisel.

Then I drill a 5/8" hole thru the brick and into the building for the wire and tapcon the box to the brick. A nice, compliant, and solid installation.


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

I can make this work with a pancake box too, that's a good idea. I want to be able to do this work for cheap and have it pass inspection with no problems. 
Thing is, when I have to try to explain to a customer about how many devices are allowed on a circuit and I cannot just add two lights to it... well they usually get turned off.

I get these types of requests almost weekly and I know the next guy will either do it under the table or do it with a permit and lie to the inspector about how many devices were on the existing circuit.

How tight are inspectors about this rule usually? Do they usually let this sort of work slide if one were to add a 13th or 14th device?


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

NDC said:


> I can make this work with a pancake box too, that's a good idea. I want to be able to do this work for cheap and have it pass inspection with no problems.
> Thing is, when I have to try to explain to a customer about how many devices are allowed on a circuit and I cannot just add two lights to it... well they usually get turned off.
> 
> I get these types of requests almost weekly and I know the next guy will either do it under the table or do it with a permit and lie to the inspector about how many devices were on the existing circuit.
> ...


No point in thinking about it till you've turned off the breaker and 
counted how many loads are on that breaker. 
P&L


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

HackWork said:


> A pancake box is 1/2" deep. I have cut many into brick by making a few quick cuts with an angle grinder and a few quick hits with a cold chisel and lump hammer. I am a lazy bastard, but it's not even worth getting out the hammer drill to chip away the brick, it comes out easily with the chisel.
> 
> Then I drill a 5/8" hole thru the brick and into the building for the wire and tapcon the box to the brick. A nice, compliant, and solid installation.


I use an angle grinder with a diamond blade for 1110 boxes, never used one for a round box. I might agree that it is not worth an additional trip if you have to get the stuff, but if it is there (planned work) it is basically just as much work to get the drill out as it is the angle grinder or play around with a smaller hammer drill and drill a bunch of smaller holes.

Preference I suppose. Depending on the fixture, when you have to start dealing with hickeys and such, it is easier to have the deeper box too.

Cheers
John


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## Drsparky14 (Oct 22, 2016)

99cents said:


> It's Lutron wireless. The Caseta is the 120V master and the Diva is the battery powered slave. If you can't pick up the switch leg easily but can find constant power, you can mount the Caseta on a JB (you will need one if you use two pancake boxes anyway) and mount the Diva beside the existing switch. The four lights won't be tied together, though, but the switches will be side by side.




Put a caseta switch in place of the the original switch too and then pair the pico remote to both switches. So they both turn on together. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Never mind. While you guys were talking about it I drove to Toronto, did
> the job, and drove back to Ottawa.
> P&L


Did you charge them your standard $35/hr?


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

RePhase277 said:


> Did you charge them your standard $35/hr?


Yes, but only cuz they gave me beer, vegan cookies, and paid cash. 
P&L


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Yes, but only cuz they gave me beer, vegan cookies, and paid cash.
> P&L


Vegan cookies..........no butter??? They must be just lovely!:001_unsure:





Beer and cookies, I'd rather just have the cash!


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## telsa (May 22, 2015)

NDC said:


> I can make this work with a pancake box too, that's a good idea. I want to be able to do this work for cheap and have it pass inspection with no problems.
> *Thing is, when I have to try to explain to a customer about how many devices are allowed on a circuit and I cannot just add two lights to it... well they usually get turned off.*
> 
> I get these types of requests almost weekly and I know the next guy will either do it under the table or do it with a permit and lie to the inspector about how many devices were on the existing circuit.
> ...


So...

Stop doing that.

LEDs change the calculus entirely.

Change the critical loads to LEDs -- and never bring the issue up.

That rule was for the era before LEDs... and it's totally arbitrary.

It makes no sense at this time --* IF* you're shifting over to LEDs.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

telsa said:


> So...
> 
> Stop doing that.
> 
> ...


I don't think Canadian rules go like that. I believe they are allowed so many outlets/lights per circuit. I could be wrong.

But even with our NEC, even if you plan on installing an LED, you still have to go by the maximum wattage the light can handle.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

HackWork said:


> I don't think Canadian rules go like that. I believe they are allowed so many outlets/lights per circuit. I could be wrong.
> 
> But even with our NEC, even if you plan on installing an LED, you still have to go by the maximum wattage the light can handle.


The rule says twelve points per circuit in residential. It is archaic and no doubt will be addressed sometime. In the meantime, I will use common sense. Our inspectors here are reasonable people. Maybe there are code Nazis elsewhere in the country but our guys like to work together, not against.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

HackWork said:


> I don't think Canadian rules go like that. I believe they are allowed so many outlets/lights per circuit. I could be wrong.
> 
> But even with our NEC, even if you plan on installing an LED, you still have to go by the maximum wattage the light can handle.


Maximum of 12 power consuming devices per circuit (receptacles, lights, exhaust fan, etc). If it is lights only, then it can be more than 12, but must be based on the max wattage of the fixture and not the lamp that is actually installed.

Because of the AFCI requirement now, almost everybody I know separates the receptacles from the lights, back in the day that was not a common practice.

Cheers
John


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

This is a detached garage. How many lights could there possibly be? Surely there isn't already 12.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

RePhase277 said:


> This is a detached garage. How many lights could there possibly be? Surely there isn't already 12.


It's outlets (receptacles or lights) that they count. 

The number "12" is completely arbitrary so I would purposely break this code rule every chance I got.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

Well it is not totally arbitrary if you read the rationale behind it. Whether you actually believe it, now that is a different argument.

It is based on a maximum circuit loading of 80% or 12 amps with the assumption that a typical average load would be about an amp per receptacle / light, etc. The exception is lights only, being that the fixture is "fixed" and unlikely to change, so by using the maximum wattage of the lamps to size the real load, you can calculate to the 12 amps.

As far as I know, there has been no accommodation for a 20 amp general use receptacle circuit, still limited to 12 devices despite the rationale would be 16 receptacles.

Cheers

John


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

Navyguy said:


> Well it is not totally arbitrary if you read the rationale behind it. Whether you actually believe it, now that is a different argument.
> 
> It is based on a maximum circuit loading of 80% or 12 amps with the assumption that a typical average load would be about an amp per receptacle / light, etc. The exception is lights only, being that the fixture is "fixed" and unlikely to change, so by using the maximum wattage of the lamps to size the real load, you can calculate to the 12 amps.
> 
> ...


1 amp per receptacle is arbitrary. Most receptacles in houses have nothing plugged into them. You can have 12 receptacles with a lamp or two and an alarm clock plugged into them, then you can have only 6 receptacles on a circuit with 4 space heaters plugged into them. 

The electrical code is for safety, not design.


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

HackWork said:


> It's outlets (receptacles or lights) that they count.
> 
> The number "12" is completely arbitrary so I would purposely break this code rule every chance I got.


Even counting receptacles, the average detached garage rarely has more than 3 or 4. And then most of the time the lights and receptacles are on separate circuits. I bet there's probably one light over each stall, and maybe a keyless in the attic space.

It's a dumbass rule that I would have zero problem ignoring. I wouldn't even bother with an inspection unless the customer just insisted on it.


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## HackWork (Oct 2, 2009)

RePhase277 said:


> Even counting receptacles, the average detached garage rarely has more than 3 or 4. And then most of the time the lights and receptacles are on separate circuits. I bet there's probably one light over each stall, and maybe a keyless in the attic space.
> 
> It's a dumbass rule that I would have zero problem ignoring. I wouldn't even bother with an inspection unless the customer just insisted on it.


Agreed. Adding 2 lights is not something any customer of mine would ever want a permit for.

As for the 12 outlet rule, I think NDC is just asking how most contractors deal with it in this situation. And I am assuming the answer is that most of them ignore it.


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

RePhase277 said:


> Even counting receptacles, the average detached garage rarely has more than 3 or 4. And then most of the time the lights and receptacles are on separate circuits. I bet there's probably one light over each stall, and maybe a keyless in the attic space.


So it is even easier then that; in our code we are required to provide a dedicated circuit for the garage / carport (26-726) and must install one receptacle for each car space. The exemption to that is you can add the lights, and garage door receptacle to it also.

But I have heard (although never experienced) some interpretations of that rule does not allow exterior lights or receptacles as they are not part of the garage proper but part of the general exterior lighting and use.

Actual wording of the rule




> 26-726 Branch Circuits for single dwellings
> 
> This Rule applies to branch circuits for single dwellings only as follows:
> 
> ...


 
So you get two for spaces and two for openers, add 2 for lights, you are only at 6 devices. It is possible that the exterior lights are on with another circuit, perhaps a 3-way in the house (which is pretty common around here) and who knows what your number will turn out to be.​ 
I am also led to believe this is where the popularity of sub-panels (60 - 70s?) in garages really started so they could get around the dedicated circuit rule for garages. Quite a bit before my time, but recall old timers talking about it.​ 



CheersJohn​


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

It's a garage, not a dwelling. Fill your boots.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> It's a garage, not a dwelling. Fill your boots.


You tell em toothman!


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> You tell em toothman!


Tooth Man ate Shark meat last night.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Tooth Man ate Shark meat last night.


Mako steak?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

MechanicalDVR said:


> Mako steak?


San Jose Shark. Six big hits and a shorty  .


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

The garage is actually attached to the house. The picture I added is not of the actual garage but just an example. I guess I should have used an attached garage picture. 

I know I have to count the existing number of devices on the circuit. I was just wondering if any of you have come across this situation where you wanted to add a low consumption device or two to a maxed out circuit, and if the inspector let it slide or not.


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## MikeFL (Apr 16, 2016)

You could call your inspector & ask him.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Attached or not, it's still a garage. I don't see it as a dwelling.

You decide. While you're talking permits and inspections, the other guy has finished the job with money in his jeans. Sometimes I leave the book in the truck.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

99cents said:


> Attached or not, it's still a garage. I don't see it as a dwelling.
> 
> You decide. While you're talking permits and inspections, the other guy has finished the job with money in his jeans. Sometimes I leave the book in the truck.


Agreed, put the lights in already!


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

99cents said:


> It's a garage, not a dwelling. Fill your boots.


Must have found this in section 13. 
P&L


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Must have found this in section 13.
> P&L


Do you live in a garage? Do you space receptacles in the garage the same as a house?


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

PlugsAndLights said:


> Must have found this in section 13.
> P&L


He has a bug up his rear lately and his posts are reflecting it!:whistling2:


He used to just be passive aggressive........


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

99cents said:


> Do you live in a garage? Do you space receptacles in the garage the same as a house?


8-304 is the rule limiting outlets to 12. It does not say that it's 
specific to residences/dwellings. It applies everywhere except 
where specific rules elsewhere in the code specify otherwise. 
So to be clear, this rule applies to houses, garages, retail spaces, 
offices, hotels, hospitals, industry, and on and on. 

Perhaps you're confusing this with the res receptacle rules of 
26-700. In fact that seems likely since you mentioned spacing
of receptacles and that is found in the 26-700's. 
P&L


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

Looks like you got me on that one .

I would still hang those fixtures on an existing circuit no problem. If the customer wants two fixtures to be permitted and inspected, he's going to be in for sticker shock.


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## PlugsAndLights (Jan 19, 2016)

99cents said:


> Looks like you got me on that one .
> 
> I would still hang those fixtures on an existing circuit no problem. If the customer wants two fixtures to be permitted and inspected, he's going to be in for sticker shock.


I don't have an issue with that, but, I'm more comfortable advising 
on what the rules are than saying "break these rule", "don't break 
these rules..." . Too much grey area for me. So, what I'd do and
what I'd advise aren't always the same. 
Another thing, if I were to break this rule, I'd want to know everything
already on that cct first. Others have made very good educated guesses
what might be on that cct earlier in the thread. But sometimes when you
actually check you find surprises....sump pumps, freezers, other buildings, 
you name it. 
P&L


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> Forget about drilling a 4" hole. That fixture will hide a surface mounted pancake box. Pick up power from your closest point. If you can't pick up the switch leg easily, no problem. Put a Caseta in your JB and replace the existing switch with a Diva. Done.


Is this the kit you're talking about? https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....pico-remote-control-kit-white.1000720941.html


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## active1 (Dec 29, 2009)

Dang.
You're not done with that yet?


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

active1 said:


> Dang.
> You're not done with that yet?


Yes I am


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

active1 said:


> Dang.
> You're not done with that yet?


Yeah, Plugs and Lights drove 4 hours to hang the lights, and I flew up and violated the sh!t out of the code tying them in.


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## MechanicalDVR (Dec 29, 2007)

RePhase277 said:


> Yeah, Plugs and Lights drove 4 hours to hang the lights, and I flew up and violated the sh!t out of the code tying them in.


You're such a rebel!


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

NDC said:


> Is this the kit you're talking about? https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....pico-remote-control-kit-white.1000720941.html


Yeah, I said Diva; should have said Pico  .


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## Navyguy (Mar 15, 2010)

RePhase277 said:


> Yeah, Plugs and Lights drove 4 hours to hang the lights, and I flew up and violated the sh!t out of the code tying them in.


 And I bitched about you two the entire time!!!

Cheers

John


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## NDC (Jan 12, 2016)

99cents said:


> Yeah, I said Diva; should have said Pico  .


Ok thanks. I see how it works now, good to know there are options I can offer.
Have you ever installed a casetta outdoors in a weatherproof pvc box? I can only think of the possibilities with this thing but I wonder how it holds up in extreme cold weather.


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

I have never put a Caseta outside. You can phone Lutron's technical line. They actually have a dude who picks up the phone  .


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## RePhase277 (Feb 5, 2008)

99cents said:


> I have never put a Caseta outside. You can phone Lutron's technical line. They actually have a *dude* who picks up the phone  .


Excuse me? Did you just assume someone's gender?


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## 99cents (Aug 20, 2012)

RePhase277 said:


> Excuse me? Did you just assume someone's gender?


Settle down  .


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