# Requirement for running a wire down a stud?



## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

LSUTigers said:


> Whats the code Requirement for running a wire down a stud? How many inches does it have to be stapled going down it, and how many inches/feet going across?


 


Tie the microwave into the stove circuit. The stove circuit is 240 volts. That is what you need to operate your microwave correctly. I bet that your hot dogs are taking too long to cook in the microwave, aren't they. Talk to one of the home improvement experts at your local home dpeot or Lowes. They can explain how to do this and provide you with all of the materials required to complete the project.

Problem solved, next question please!


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## LSUTigers (Mar 29, 2011)

No, not at all haha, has nothing to do with that. Buddy I work with said its 6 inches going down, and either 18 or 24 inches going across. I'm just trying to find out. 

Thanks


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

Are you just a helper? THis is pretty basic stuff. Let me ask you, do own a codebook and what year is your AHJ enforcing? Are you in an area with no licensing or inspections?


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## LSUTigers (Mar 29, 2011)

Yes, I'm just a helper. Started a month or so back. I usually just do 6 inches going down to be safe, and 18 across. No, I don't own a codebook, and yes I'm in an area of inspections. Nothing that I've done (that I'm aware of) has caused a failed inspection, I was just curious if I was overdoing it


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## brian john (Mar 11, 2007)

You claim you are residential and this is typically the very basic stuff an residential apprentice learns.

I need to know how you missed knowing this or that the electrician you are working with has not taught you this prior to any responses.


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

Are you saying you staple it every 6" where its running down a stud?


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## LSUTigers (Mar 29, 2011)

brian john said:


> You claim you are residential and this is typically the very basic stuff an residential apprentice learns.
> 
> I need to know how you missed knowing this or that the electrician you are working with has not taught you this prior to any responses.


I apologize Brian..to be honest with you, the guy I worked for really taught me nothing. I'm actually trying to get on with someone else. Aside from the repetition of running wire, and all the other stuff, I'm really naive on the NEC aspect. 

I plan on getting an issue, but would you mind answering my question?


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

Just staple it so the wire doesn't flop around and get crushed behind the sheetrock..... It's one of those common sense things, if it’s neat and secure you probably did it right.


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## LSUTigers (Mar 29, 2011)

crazyboy said:


> Are you saying you staple it every 6" where its running down a stud?


I meant 12! I'm sorry.


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## LSUTigers (Mar 29, 2011)

Grimlock said:


> Just staple it so the wire doesn't flop around and get crushed behind the sheetrock..... It's one of those common sense things, if it’s neat and secure you probably did it right.


This is definitely the case, I just don't want to over-do it.


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

I'll typically shoot a screw through the middle so it bonds itself to the ground wire. One at the beginning of the run, one in the middle, and one at the end. No need for overkill on this stuff. On 3 wire you have to be extra careful doing this so you don't nick the other wires, the neutrals okay though.


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

*2008 NEC*
*334.30 Securing and Supporting. *
Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4-1⁄2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting. Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge.Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway.​

*(A) Horizontal Runs Through Holes and Notches. *
In other than vertical runs, cables installed in accordance with
300.4 shall be considered to be supported and secured
where such support does not exceed 1.4-m (4-1⁄2-ft) intervalsand the nonmetallic-sheathed cable is securely fastened in place by an approved means within 300 mm (12 in.) of each box, cabinet, conduit body, or other nonmetallic sheathed cable termination.


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

FYI: If it's a single gang box then its 8-1/2" max distance to the staple.


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

If you are serious about a career as an electrician and do not want to be siimple labor, invest in these books.:








The bottom one is a cliff notes type version for residential and is inexpensive. You might also look at some study materials from Tom Henry or Mike Holt. If you are on the 2011 NEC, buy the 2011 versions of the above.

If you will be entering a formal training program of some kind soon, you can skip the above advice.

Now to answer your question, NM cable should be stapled a minimum of every 4 1/2 feet. It should also be stapled a minimum of 12 inches from each box, or a minimum of 8 inches if you are using the plastic boxes.


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

Grimlock said:


> FYI: If it's a single gang box then its 8-1/2" max distance to the staple.


I thought it was for non-metallic boxes where there are no means to securely hold the cable in their connectors. But other than that, yes there is that to look out for.

Article 314.17 C

*(C) Nonmetallic Boxes and Conduit Bodies.​*​​​​Nonmetallic
boxes and conduit bodies shall be suitable for the lowest
temperature-rated conductor entering the box. Where nonmetallic
boxes and conduit bodies are used with messengersupported
wiring, open wiring on insulators, or concealed
knob-and-tube wiring, the conductors shall enter the box
through individual holes. Where flexible tubing is used to
enclose the conductors, the tubing shall extend from the last
insulating support to not less than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.) inside the
box and beyond any cable clamp. Where nonmetallicsheathed
cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used,
the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.) inside
the box and beyond any cable clamp. In all instances, all
permitted wiring methods shall be secured to the boxes.​
_Exception: Where nonmetallic-sheathed cable or multiconductor
Type UF cable is used with single gang boxes not
larger than a nominal size 57 mm × 100 mm (2​​​​1⁄4 in.
× 4 in.) mounted in walls or ceilings, and where the cable
is fastened within 200 mm (8 in.) of the box measured along
the sheath and where the sheath extends through a cable
knockout not less than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.), securing the cable to
the box shall not be required. Multiple cable entries shall​
be permitted in a single cable knockout opening
_


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

brian john said:


> You claim you are residential and this is typically the very basic stuff an residential apprentice learns.
> 
> I need to know how you missed knowing this or that the electrician you are working with has not taught you this prior to any responses.


 

The "electrician" he is working for may not know sh$^ from Shinola.


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## Grimlock (Aug 4, 2009)

thegoldenboy said:


> I thought it was for non-metallic boxes *where there are no means to securely hold the cable* in their connectors. But other than that, yes there is that to look out for.
> 
> Exactly, I was going to elaberate but didn't. :thumbsup:


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

Grimlock said:


> thegoldenboy said:
> 
> 
> > I thought it was for non-metallic boxes *where there are no means to securely hold the cable* in their connectors. But other than that, yes there is that to look out for.
> ...


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## LSUTigers (Mar 29, 2011)

I really appreciate all of you being professional and not bagging on me for lack of knowledge. Brian, Doubleoh7, thanks a lot guys, I'll definitely look into getting a code book.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Even if he's a homeowner I think people should be nice. Within 6" of every box unless there are mechanical "clips", then 12". Every 4 1/2'. 1 1/4" from the outside of the stud.


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

nitro71 said:


> Even if he's a homeowner I think people should be nice. Within 6" of every box unless there are mechanical "clips", then 12". Every 4 1/2'. 1 1/4" from the outside of the stud.


 
If a homeowner comes on here wanting free advice, so he does not have to hire his local electrician, he will recieve my wrath.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

doubleoh7 said:


> If a homeowner comes on here wanting free advice, so he does not have to hire his local electrician, he will recieve my wrath.


Comon, no way can you learn everything you need to know from reading a book and posting on the forum. That guy will be calling you when it's all fubar'd up :thumbsup:


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

nitro71 said:


> Comon, no way can you learn everything you need to know from reading a book and posting on the forum. That guy will be calling you when it's all fubar'd up :thumbsup:


 

No. They will get the lights to come on any way possible, no matter how dangerous. Then they will brag to friends and family about what a rip off doubleoh7 electric is. "He wanted $2000 for a new 200 amp service and I did it myself for $300". Some of the guys I know on the Volutneer Fire department may get a call.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

doubleoh7 said:


> No. They will get the lights to come on any way possible, no matter how dangerous. Then they will brag to friends and family about what a rip off doubleoh7 electric is. "He wanted $2000 for a new 200 amp service and I did it myself for $300". Some of the guys I know on the Volutneer Fire department may get a call.


Remember, these guys aren't your target customer. You want customers with MONEY!


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

nitro71 said:


> Remember, these guys aren't your target customer. You want customers with MONEY!


 

Most of them DO have money.


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

doubleoh7 said:


> Most of them DO have money.


No they don't.. I decided the only resi I'm doing is for those with money that are willing to pay reasonable rates. Just have to work on selling points for that market.


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

nitro71 said:


> No they don't.. I decided the only resi I'm doing is for those with money that are willing to pay reasonable rates. Just have to work on selling points for that market.


 

" willing to pay reasonable rates"


That is the key. If they call and say they are seeking quotes for ........ I ask if they are looking for the lowest price and if that is the only factor. If the answer is yes, I simply tell them that I am not interested. :thumbsup:


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

doubleoh7 said:


> " willing to pay reasonable rates"
> 
> 
> That is the key. If they call and say they are seeking quotes for ........ I ask if they are looking for the lowest price and if that is the only factor. If the answer is yes, I simply tell them that I am not interested. :thumbsup:


I don't have much busines.. But if I had money who would I want to hire? Drug users? 10$ an hour guys? Whoever shoes up? 

Or.. Do I want personalized service from a trustworthy source? 

If I had money I wouldn't let crackhead electric on my property.


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

nitro71 said:


> I don't have much busines.. But if I had money who would I want to hire? Drug users? 10$ an hour guys? Whoever shoes up?
> 
> Or.. Do I want personalized service from a trustworthy source?
> 
> If I had money I wouldn't let crackhead electric on my property.


 

Many people with money ARE stupid. Or they may be Indians or Jewish. They don't care about the quality, just the lowest price. They see electrical work as a commodity. What is the difference to them, either way, the lights come on don't they?


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

doubleoh7 said:


> Many people with money ARE stupid. Or they may be Indians or Jewish. They don't care about the quality, just the lowest price. They see electrical work as a commodity. What is the difference to them, either way, the lights come on don't they?


But think how many customers ask you "if their wiring is safe". I look at it and tell them to keep their smoke alarms functioning. I know where you're coming from. Just lost a bid that I wouldn't have shown up for what they supposedly paid. 

That market sucks. Need to target those with money.


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## doubleoh7 (Dec 5, 2009)

nitro71 said:


> But think how many customers ask you "if their wiring is safe". I look at it and tell them to keep their smoke alarms functioning. I know where you're coming from. Just lost a bid that I wouldn't have shown up for what they supposedly paid.
> 
> That market sucks. Need to target those with money.


 
There are not enough with money. When they ask me if their wiring is safe, I do that too. I get this crazy look on my face and tell them to make sure their smoke detectors are funtioning at ALL times!:laughing:

Usually, when they ask that question, they have no intention of paying you to do something. Very seldom, have I said your home needs rewired and they have had me do it. I then hear things like can't you just look it over and "fix" what needs "fixing". No ma'm your house needs rewired and you have a Federal Pacific panel that ain't getting any safer.


Those customers are simply looking for someone to blame when something goes wrong. "Doubleoh7 Electric worked on my electric and my home burned down 3 months later. I'm sueing him" They won't say: " he recomended 10K worth of electrical work and I did not want to pay. That is too much money for someone like that to make".


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## nitro71 (Sep 17, 2009)

Target commercial... Homeowners kinda.. Suck asss..


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## cilaes (Mar 24, 2011)

thegoldenboy said:


> Grimlock said:
> 
> 
> > Well I can't argue with that one. :no:
> ...


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## Shockdoc (Mar 4, 2010)

The most standard verticle stapling is 6" from box, 12" from where it enters top plate and one staple center for low(receptacle) boxes. I often stick my screwdriver through the sheetrock at around these locations and almost always find and remove the staple.


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## thegoldenboy (Aug 15, 2010)

cilaes said:


> thegoldenboy said:
> 
> 
> > Is the 2008 Version available as well? Thanks in advance.
> ...


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## keithbussanich (Apr 3, 2011)

nitro71 said:


> Comon, no way can you learn everything you need to know from reading a book and posting on the forum. That guy will be calling you when it's all fubar'd up :thumbsup:


actually nitro this is how i started out


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## airelectrician (Apr 8, 2011)

Why nobody tell him to go to an apprenticeship program?


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## TOOL_5150 (Aug 27, 2007)

crazyboy said:


> Are you saying you staple it every 6" where its running down a stud?


Yes EVERY 6 INCHES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
































































~Matt


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## electures (Oct 23, 2008)

Grimlock said:


> FYI: If it's a single gang box then its 8-1/2" max distance to the staple.


8 inches


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## MF Dagger (Dec 24, 2007)

airelectrician said:


> Why nobody tell him to go to an apprenticeship program?


Why nobody tell you go to an spelling/grammar school?


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## crazyboy (Nov 8, 2008)

TOOL_5150 said:


> Yes EVERY 6 INCHES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's what I'm saying!!


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## Stan B. (Jul 25, 2008)

Non-union.


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## Jlarson (Jun 28, 2009)

Stan B. said:


> Non-union.


Union




I can make meaningless posts too. :laughing:


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