# can any cordless drills handle 1/2" auger bits?



## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

I would say that most 18v drills should be able to handle drilling that size hole. I have drilled holes with my 14v dewalt and haven't had any trouble out of it, but don't do it that often.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

They can 'handle' a 1/2" auger bit, but it's a question of 'for how long'?

If you're trying to drill out an entire house, get a corded drill.


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## Frasbee (Apr 7, 2008)

480sparky said:


> They can 'handle' a 1/2" auger bit, but it's a question of 'for how long'?
> 
> If you're trying to drill out an entire house, get a corded drill.


I agree.

I've used a short 1'' auger for quick holes, but I usually go from speed to torque to finish the hole.

Extended abuse like this would burn your drill up in no time.


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## electro916 (Jan 16, 2009)

Since I got my right-angle drill I only use the cordless with a nail-eater for one of two quick holes.

There was one time when I used my Milwaukee 18v to rough in 2 houses, and it worked quite well.


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## captkirk (Nov 21, 2007)

480sparky said:


> They can 'handle' a 1/2" auger bit, but it's a question of 'for how long'?
> 
> If you're trying to drill out an entire house, get a corded drill.


 I agree... There ok for a hole or two here and there but thats really work for a corded drill. Your really asking alot of your drill if you are drilling out alot of holes with it daily.....


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## ElectricBill (Aug 14, 2009)

I would just be using the auger occasionally. I'm thinking of upgrading to the 18 volt makita lithium-ion for convenience while crawling around the attic to fish wires.


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## electro916 (Jan 16, 2009)

ElectricBill said:


> I would just be using the auger occasionally. I'm thinking of upgrading to the 18 volt makita lithium-ion for convenience while crawling around the attic to fish wires.



Then yea it would work great, for boring holes to fish wires in existing and as long as you are not going from floor to floor, Id actually just use a self-feed bit, they may be costly but a lot easier to lug around in crawl spaces and such.


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## McClary’s Electrical (Feb 21, 2009)

My 18 volt milwaukee will drill 5/8 through three studs pretty easy. I've got a 3 speed rigid for roughin in.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

ElectricBill said:


> I would just be using the auger occasionally. I'm thinking of upgrading to the 18 volt makita lithium-ion for convenience while crawling around the attic to fish wires.


I did just that this past weekend.


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## MDShunk (Jan 7, 2007)

I've roughed in many a house with my Milwaukee 18's and 28's, but I tend to go through drills. I normally use 3/4, 13/16, and 7/8 naileater type bits.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

After using a HoleHawg or similar drill for all my rough-in work, using a wimpy little cordless drill for an auger bit is quite a frustrating experience. I've tried a few times but inevitably get out the big guns for using an auger bit.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

MDShunk said:


> I've roughed in many a house....


Like 10,000 at least?


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## Toronto Sparky (Apr 12, 2009)

Spade bit works better on a cordless.. But only for a few.. Cordless is more for screwing.. or working on a roof..


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## Jim Port (Oct 1, 2007)

My 18V DeWalt would not handle a auger bit until I switched to this style. Now it will drill doubles and the occassional triple.

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd160002

I just drilled some singles with a 10.8 Hitachi impact. Slow but it worked and it fits in tight spaces too.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Jim Port said:


> My 18V DeWalt would not handle a auger bit until I switched to this style. Now it will drill doubles and the occassional triple.
> ..........


 
What are doubles and triples?


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## nolabama (Oct 3, 2007)

480sparky said:


> What are doubles and triples?


they come with cheese dude


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

nolabama said:


> they come with cheese dude


I assumed he was at a bar ordering shots.


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## ArrrrrMatey (Oct 23, 2009)

480sparky said:


> What are doubles and triples?


A double is a typical top plate while a triple is a typical top plate with a nailer on top?


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## Briancraig81 (May 25, 2007)

Jim Port said:


> My 18V DeWalt would not handle a auger bit until I switched to this style. Now it will drill doubles and the occassional triple.
> 
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd160002
> 
> I just drilled some singles with a 10.8 Hitachi impact. Slow but it worked and it fits in tight spaces too.



That bit works good but in my experience it will wear a battery down pretty quick if your using it to rough in a room.


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

I haven't used a corded drill to rough-in since I got the Milwaukee Li 18V. I use a sharp 3/4" auger bit and have no trouble. Most studs around here the last few years are match-stick pine, just a little tougher than balsa wood. I usually go through 3-4 batteries a day. My corded drills only come out now when the hole saw size goes over 2-1/2".


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

amptech said:


> I haven't used a corded drill to rough-in since I got the Milwaukee Li 18V. I use a sharp 3/4" auger bit and have no trouble. Most studs around here the last few years are match-stick pine, just a little tougher than balsa wood. I usually go through 3-4 batteries a day. My corded drills only come out now when the hole saw size goes over 2-1/2".


 How long do your drills last?


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

I'm still on my 1st Milwaukee 18V Li drill.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

amptech said:


> I'm still on my 1st Milwaukee 18V Li drill.


 
OK, so when did you buy it, and how many entire houses have you drilled out with it?


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## ArrrrrMatey (Oct 23, 2009)

amptech said:


> I'm still on my 1st Milwaukee 18V Li drill.


 Are you saying that you use this drill:










That drill is super light and a pleasure to work with, but I never thought it would hold up to drilling studs all day.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

OK, I'm going to take a stand here. Drilling out a new house with a cordless drill is girly.


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Peter D said:


> OK, I'm going to take a stand here. Drilling out a new house with a cordless drill is girly.


 
And you would know because.........?


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Peter D said:


> OK, I'm going to take a stand here. Drilling out a new house with a cordless drill is girly.


 Amen.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

480sparky said:


> And you would know because.........?


*I am The King!!*


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## william1978 (Sep 21, 2008)

Peter D said:


> *I am The King!!*


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## 480sparky (Sep 20, 2007)

Peter D said:


> *I am The King!!*


Aw, man. You totally ignored my girl with the drill thingy.







I'm gonna stop worshipping you now!


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## Kevin J (Dec 11, 2008)

The only ones I see going cordless are the AV crews, and all they drill are little 3/8'' holes. There ain't a cordless drill on the market that can outdo a corded drill on the yellow pine they use around here if you're drilling out a house for roping.


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Kevin J said:


> The only ones I see going cordless are the AV crews, and all they drill are little 3/8'' holes. There ain't a cordless drill on the market that can outdo a corded drill on the yellow pine they use around here if you're drilling out a house for roping.


That's what I'm sayin'. :thumbsup:


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## user4818 (Jan 15, 2009)

Most new homes here are built with furring strips so very little drilling is actually required.


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

I bought the Milwaukee 18V Li drill, 1/4" impact and sawzall last November. Since then it has been used on the rough-in of 2 houses, 4 churches, a dental office, 3 house additions and an insurance office. Everything else has been metal studs and pipe. I haven't had a battery go bad yet either. Call it girly if you want, but it's just too easy to jump on a baker's scaffold and wheel around drilling ceiling joists without worrying with a cord. And like I said, the framing lumber around here is pretty soft and floor joists are TJI. Just don't force the drill and avoid lugging and stalling and you'll extend the life a bunch.


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## amptech (Sep 21, 2007)

ArrrrrMatey said:


> Are you saying that you use this drill:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is not a Milwaukee drill.


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## ArrrrrMatey (Oct 23, 2009)

amptech said:


> That is not a Milwaukee drill.


No one said I was smart.


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## mikeg_05 (Jan 1, 2009)

ArrrrrMatey said:


> No one said I was smart.


Maybe a Pirate


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## g_core18 (May 2, 2009)

The Ridgids have enough torque to spare and they're pretty well priced.


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## Michael Winters (Oct 21, 2009)

We tested a bunch of the new lithium-ion powered cordless drills and the one that impressed us the most was the DeWalt DCD970 with its 3 speed range gearbox. It's 2 and 3 settings correspond to the 1 and 2 gearing of other drills. Having the extra low range makes a big difference in both torque and battery charge life. 

The lithium-ion power ratings from the manufacturer are lab based and really don't provide an accurate picture of the power a drill will provide in the real world. The overload circuitry will cut power to the motor before the maximum torque can be applied. Hitachi is the worst in this regard. 

Recharge times also vary a lot with it taking twice as long to recharge the Hitachi and Milwaukee battery packs as with the Makita and the DeWalt (both were under 15 minutes). 

The cutting tool makes a big difference and the designs are mostly good for corded drills but not so good for cordless. Lots of auger designs on the market but none are designed to make the best use of the power provided by a cordless drill. There are short auger bits on the end of a thin shaft and these will require a lot less power than the continuous auger designs but all are designed for fast cutting and minimize damage from hitting a nail and not for minimizing the power needed from the drill.

People have not shifted their thinking from old designs for the most part - one exception being the new hole cutters like the Milwaukee Big Hawg and the Blue Boar Self-feed TCT hole cutters.


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